MK7 fan holder/ print cooler

by kommisar, published

MK7 fan holder/ print cooler by kommisar May 3, 2012
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9269Views 1599Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories


The design is a version of the great fan block from timmytool.

It has some additional features like:

  • fan ejection nozzles on both sides of the MK7 heater. It provides more even airflow over the printing area and MK7 radiator;
  • wider ejection nozzles. Again, more air out - better cooling;
  • optional connection to additional air supply (compressor) for delicate prints.


Print the block, clean, install, use.

If there is a compressor around and a need for additional cooling:

  • drill two holes on top of the block;
  • connect to the compressor using flexible tubes and T-adapter;
  • make it cool!

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You may want to have a look at the STL file.  I'm slicing it right now and its giving nothing but problems with dangling edges.  I opened it in netfabb and is so rife with errors that it can't fix it.  Any ideas?

Great Thing. Must have for every Mk7 User

See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25765http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... for and updated version

I cant get this to fit without modifications to the z axis platform. Ideas?

Left nozzle of the block is a tight fit by design and if it interferes with the Z axis platform, just sand down the block a bit. 1.5 mm thick walls allow it.

Any possiblility of you uploading the source files? Thanks

Im confused as to what blowing cool air on the print does. Isn't the entire purpose of a heated build platform to keep the print warm and stop it from warping?

What is the theory behind it all?

The idea of the HBP is to get the first layer to stick, after that it's nice to have a slightly warm area to get the successive layer to adhere. The air coming out of this fan is reasonably warm as it's pulling the air from the heat sink on the extruder. "Cold" aire can cause the layer not to bond as they set up too quickly. What would be really nice is to have a Skeinforge setting that only turns the fan on after X layers.

The idea is rapidly cool down recently extruded layer to allow extrusion of the next layer on top of it as soon as possible without mess and distortion of printed shape.

I use "Printable 3D Skill Badge" scaled down to 50% as a test case to fine tune my design. And there are my findings regarding additional cooling:

1) Plain MK7 - all 4 pillars are distorted on upper 50% from inside and outside.

2) Original design of the block with a nozzle on left side only - ex
ternal part of the left side pillars is much better, but: rest is distorted; right side of of the extruder mount plate is warmer than left; some blowback air from the fun .

3) Original design with air ejection nozzle 4 mm wide instead of 2 mm - less distortion on the left side, no noticeable change
s on the inner side and right pillars, less blowback from the fan.

My design suppose to solve issues I described above by providing:

  • Wide nozzles on both sides of the extruder head;
  • More air out of the nozzles - less blowback from fun area, better cooling of print and MK7 itself.

Quite simply, small fine detail prints are much better quality.

I was printing off this Ball Socket: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5578http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

And I got it to work but it didn't look the best. After installing the original fan, it came out excellent. Take a look at my picture below. The one on the left is after I installed the fan, the one on the right is before.

The only way to improve the fan is to blow air on both sides. When I look closely at the ball of the ball and socket, the side facing away from the fan had a mild imperfection. As soon as I am done with work, I'm going to print off this new fan. Way to go kommisar!!!

ball and socket chain links with hole through