Nintendo Switch Comfort Grip

by jgr526 Apr 7, 2017
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I will say this is one of the most comfortable grips I ever used for my switch. But unfortunately I could not use it. I printed one of the grips right before a flight for the holidays to use on the plane . When I got in the plane i noticed the connection is to long. Is there something I’m missing ?

Printing the Whole v3 file on my Ender 3 right now. You can find some tips for this on the make I posted.

Also, wanted to reiterate that the "Whole" v3 STL has a slight alignment issue between the fused left and right pieces, but it's still functional.

Hello, I will try to print and I would like to know which version is best suited to the switch and trigger handling. Thanks

This for the switch lite would be great.

Hi there ! The file for the V3 left side seems to be corrupted. Is it the same for you guys ?

Can you make this for Nintendo Switch Lite?

I'd love that too :)

The grip is great and very solid.
But I want to ask if it are just my printer settings or if somebody else also has it.
The parts of the V3 wouldn't slide into it and I had to use a file.
Without it it doesn't fit.

the connection's won't go together. any tips on how to make them fit?

Use a file like me.

No meme, I swear, but if you spray the grips with Flex Seal it's AWESOME

Some switch grips available on the internet have a longer (width) right side then left side to make it easier to use the right analog stick!
maybe you could try that for a v4 if you ever have time :)

Thank you tho this sounds amazing! My Anycubic i3 mega will arrive in 2 days (my first printer) and this is pretty much going to be the first actual thing I'll print after doing the whole test print and setting up.

I'm not sure if i'll glue them with fricton welding acetone or superglue-epoxy. I don't wanna wait for it to cure i'm impatient :D

I just got an anycubic i3 mega a few days ago and printed this last night. First off it came out great and is an awesome printer, but i just wanted to add that one big issue of the switch is over time the release buttons on the back of the joycon wear because they are made out of cheap plastic. Well this grip holds the switch up by the joycons mostly(depending on how you hold it) and while it is useable ive been noticing that my left joycon release button must be going because half the time i use the grip it detaches my joycon, mostly when i put it in the grip initially but also ive shaken the grip around to see how sturdy it is and it has disconnected from that as well. So depending on how you hold it it could be fine but it could be annoying too.

Now i can just buy metal replacers (which i plan to) and put them in but i just wanted to warn/recommend people that either be prepared for this or consider adjusting the grip in a 3d modeler to hold up the tablet as well, they really only need to be moved over about an inch imo and it would be perfect, i just wish i realized before i spent 6 hours printing this.

Just print something that would be put in the middle then, holding the switch (don't forget the charger hole). And glue it with the assembled grip that you already printed!

Oh thank you for this warning! Maybe I'll manually move them so that they hold it by the tablet!

Can I know your print settings and material etc? My printer will HOPEFULLY arrive in 2 days otherwise I need to wait 10 days for the holidays here :(

I'm still a noob :D

i got my printer like 5 days ago and other than youtube videos have 0 experience in this field so dont feel bad, im a noob as well.
i would recommend a small print first to just to make sure your printer is setup correct. the first print i did is of a joycon cover that you can find on here, its really small and takes like 10 mins to print so it when it screws up you dont feel as bad. i had about 10 screw ups before i realized i had to level my bed and now everything works good.

For material im still using the PLA that came with my printer and for settings, i use Cura to slice things and basically use the default reccommended settings mostly. i did change the layer height to .3mm for this build which goes faster but can be less pretty around the edges(not a big deal for this print with limited detail) and i put the infill to about 15% to save plastic and time. It might sound confusing at first but once you play around with it youll get the hang of it, theres also a lot of great youtube videos that helped me a lot, and you can also check out other peoples makes of this print and go off their settings if posted.

Also just a side note tip, i learned last night not everything you download off this site will be perfect and sometimes it will need slight tweaking. I printed a space invaders toilet paper holder last night and due to an issue with the first couple layers not being even, i spent 5 hours printing and got to 97% and it screwed up and knocked something over. luckily it wasnt that bad , but today i get to play around with 3d modeling and try to slice the end off i need and just print that and glue it together(rather then reprint the entire thing). Shouldnt be too hard but it was really frustrating to see happen, it makes me nervous to leave prints alone.

Anyways i wish you luck, ive been having a blast fixing and creating stuff the past few days.

Nice work! Just printed the "V3 Whole" version. Printed easily on the first try, and perfect fit. Bravo!

how long did it take you to print?

I just printed the 3 piece version of this as my printer only has a 5x5x5 max print. The middle connector piece that goes across the back of the switch is too thick to slide down into the left and right grips. I have to force it in and even then, it will only fit about halfway and its bending out the 2 pieces that the connector slides in between. I dont want to break it. I printed it at 100% scale. Any suggestions?

The two little nozzles that hold the switch on the bottom front easily broke in my print. I used 20% Infill, Triangles. Everything else is fine. Does anyone have an idea why?

Could you make a split version of v3 that doesn't have the connector? It keeps messing up my prints to have it there.

Comments deleted.

I have a power pack (https://vogduo.us/products/copy-of-power-delivery-10000mah-power-go) and I would like to add a clip for it. Would you share the source design files? If I get something that works I would be happy to send the results back to you.

Thanks, I reported both. I appreciate you pointing this out to me.

Hey there was a couple others two but I can't find them anymore can anyone else find them? This needs to be stopped even if we have to go through every single Etsy listing. It shouldn't stop at 3DPyroPrints. He also has a website here --> https://3DPyroPrints.com how do we take that down?

Anyone come across the issue of the left hand grip, the front tab that holds the switch in cracks when you put the switch in?

Yes, I have this same issue as well, if you leave that Pin broken the right side will shortly afterward crack and break. I am going to see if I can modify the STL to add Reinforcement to that front pin and reprint.

Did you ever manage to get a reinforced version of this created?

Yep, here it is, I had actually forgotten about uploading it. All I did was "Mold" the existing Tab and then stretch the mold a bit and then used the existing Tab structure and my new mold to fill in the gaps. All done in Tinkercad.

Just basic tweaking, didn't think it would warrant its own upload since it was so minor a change.

what are the chances of printing this on a monoprice select v2

thinking same thing just gonna try it if its too big u can cut it in half then just glue together

What are the chances of getting a modified version of this to support the ZeroLemon Extended Battery?
Design looks amazing!

OMG this thing makes playing the nintendo switch so much more comfortable to play.

it cannot be overstated how the default feel is not that great for long term play .

could you provide a 3 piece version of v3?

Hi, I was thinking in glueing the grips to that silicone joy con protective cases, such as this one: https://goo.gl/images/BmfQkx
This way there would be no need for the middle part and it would be dockable.
Have anyone tried something similar?
Does the grip have enough room to fit the joy cons with a case?
What kind of glue do you suggest?

I didn't use such grip case yet I'm just curious: Did you think of enlarging just the right grip? I saw grip cases for sale that have lager right grips so one can get a better angle on the right joystick. Idk if that would be a smart idea.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Hello, sorry if this is a dumb question I just got my 3d printer today, I want to print this on my anycubic photon, how do I make sure the scale is correct before I print? Thank you!

Just make sure that it is set to 100% scale. This was designed with the dimensions needed.

unless your printer will rescale it then it should be fine, use the multi part broken down due to the small size I think that printer has to fit the bed of the printer. I did not rescale mine on a fdm printer and it fit like a glove. if you are worried then do a test print with one of the side parts that go on the joy con, if it fits then print the rest. if not then it will make rescaling easier.

Hi, I printing at the moment your V3 in petg.
I was planning later to buy a silicone cover of a xbox controler and them cut it a glue it to add more confort.
The silicone is pretty cheap, like 2$...


Can you tell me if the grip are from a xbox 360 or xbox one controler?

Just finished my print of this and it's great. I was a little worried about scratching on the sides and bottom of the Joycons, especially where the IR receiver is on the right one. I bought some self-adhesive felt and put it on the sides and bottom where the Joycons would rub and they're good, though this makes it a bit slippery and easy to fall out. Later today I'm going to try and find some self-adhesive rubber feet and see if i can put them on the sides to try and keep it in and stop the wiggly-ness. Overall really awesome design.

Any chance you could make a cleaner model, with a smoother surface and no grooves and "screw holes". It's a very great design, but it's full of artifacts that affects both print time and the overall quality of the final print.

I cleaned it up using Fusion 360 to remove the "seams" and "holes". You can see the results here: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:536878

Nintendo Switch Comfort Grip
by chevin

Thanks a lot for the .stl files.
I was wondering in the files you provided on layer high 350 there some to be some sort or warping effect on the middle piece of the right one
Do you see this back in the print?

Added 2 screenshots first one your clean version, and the second is the orginal on left and your on right

Thank you!!!!
I was trying to figure out how to do that but my fusion was acting dumb :D

nice! maybe post them as a remix for easier access?

Hi, I am trying to print v1 because of the sperated parts. I would like to know if I should add supports to the print.

I am using the Monoprice Select Mini V2 and Cura 3.1.0

Thanks - AW Studios

Hey heads up, someone is selling this on Facebook for $30 --> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/183358955649420

Thank you for letting me know. It looks like it got taken down. I appreciate you looking out for this!

I find v3's shoulder too thick that my fingers aren't naturally on the ZL buttons. I love the design of v2A and believe it's the best one, but did anyone notice how the handles are pretty much split from the model? Can the author fix it please?

I came here to say the same thing. It adds like 2 hour to my print time.

I made it solid and the problem is solved. Check my attachment to the above comment. I also made it a remix you can find within my things.

I ended up using Meshmixer's "make solid" to fix the model. The end result is a slightly less smooth but solid model. It seems the author has disabled remixing so I'm uploading it here in case anyone likes V2A but is bothered by the separated handles. Print at the 99.5% scale for a more snug fit. Print at 0.1mm height and 205-210c (PLA) for best layer bonding. I then attached some electrician tape inside the side slots. It serves as both a scratch guard and provides much more friction so switch now doesn't fall out at all. It's perfection now!!

I printed one of these on my Anet A8 out of the box and it was great. Gave it to my brother. Then I printed another for myself after getting the printer dialed in. The gap is 1,45mm too wide, the switch won't stay in there, I printed another version to try and same problem. I imported it to fusion 360 and checked the measurements, the design as far as I can see has a gap of 240,45mm while the switch is 239mm wide :( I really like the design work but It would have been nice if it was the right size :( Hope I'm not barking up the wrong tree here.

great design, bloody brilliant for those of us with big hands

I'd like to make a suggestion for a new version. With the joycon locking issue that's been going around, it would be nice to exetend the bottom bit to cover the gap between the console and the joycons. That way it doesnt slide out the bottom if someone has the weak locks on the joycons. Mine personally have started to go on my neon set and pressing the power button while in the grip the switch likes to slide down.

Hello thanks for the great Design, but I noticed there is a minor flaw in the v3 whole. In the middle of the grip where the two seperate parts would meet there is a slight layer shift in the model.

I used the version divided into 3 parts, is this version based off the original design or the most recent version?

Can we get a version that holds on to the screen instead of the joy cons? mine don't attach to the console well and this doesn't work for me. If not, can I get the stl for the "handle" parts?

V3 split, printed what seems scaled down. The cross section in the back is an inch or more too short. Not tall enough for the switch, tab snapped trying to seat it, was clear it wouldn't make it. Anyone else?

Tab snapped for me as well when I made one for a friend, I made a dirty upgrade with wider tabs ill share, if you use it let me know how it works.

worked fine for me but,I will print again for my friend.

Great design. On mine, I went through the trouble of sanding and smoothing the main grip areas, and then I applied many coats of plastidip to give it a rubberized feel to it. It's very grippy, and the plastidip is durable, so i recommend it to anyone who wants to give their comfort grip some extra.... grip.

I'd love to see V2A and V2B split as well. The V3 is nice but I think the V2's would be even better for small hands.

Due to my printer limitations (print time while at work) I remixed this to use 3 pieces, a left, right, and middle piece, that way I don't need supports to hold up the floating middle piece. However you have non-derivative so I will NOT share this altered remix without your permissions. There were no major alterations made other than how it was split up, but if you wanted to add an official release of that it would be PERFECT for most users. Really excited to print mine out now!

I turned off derivatives because "humanisticnick" posted a remix with no visible changes to the the original v1 model (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2458604) and has been selling it on ebay as his own design even though I asked him to take it down (and also already had a non-commercial license on it). He refuses to take the ebay listing down saying that because he was able to "remix" it it's his own property now (when he changed absolutely nothing about the overall design other than "improving it for printing").

Thank you for taking the time to split it into 3 parts for yourself. If you'd like I can turn derivatives back on temporarily so you can post your own remix. I think it would be really helpful to others.

Can do, will do! I didn't do any crazy edits or anything, nor want any credit stealing (that's the worst!) just wanted a even 3 piece split for easy printing. :) seems like a popular idea based on a few comments too!

Ok I changed the license for a bit so you can upload the remix. Thank you!

Done! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752511

Thanks, Can't wait to finish printing this thing out! it's a pain for my large hands to hold it while mobile for too long!

Nintendo Switch Comfort Grip (by jgr526) 3 PIECE V3 REMIX
by Intashu

Awesome. Thanks! Hopefully it assembles as you expected and works out for you.

If its ok with the creator im going to modify this a little. The most annoying thing is when I push the power but or trying to slide the unit in it disconnects from the joycon. Some lip on the bottom where the joycon rest would fix this, or there is a indention on the back that a plastic piece can snap

Hey I featured your model on my channel: https://youtu.be/8MzNG5oqPlI Awesome job this thing is kick ass.

Thanks for the comment and making the video! I'll add a link to it in the description as it should be useful for everyone to see it.

does this scratch the nintendo switch

How long would each piece take to print in V1?

can the v3 be split into 3 parts like the v1? currently its just split into 2 parts and they dont fit my build plate :( 120mm

Can you make one without the bridge on the center?. I have an external battery and it gets in the way.

If you use IdeaMaker you can split an stl along a plane, so you could separate the bridge yourself

Any chance you could split V3 like you've split v1? This is a portable console, and having to carry an additional grip would be a lot easier if we could split it in 3 parts like the v1

Well I don't know how people are using their grips, but I've had mine since V3.0 came out, and I've got nothing but great things to say about it...

Well maybe that it could be comfier... but wait... if you print it with flexible filament I will totally be comfier! so thats what I'll do now... finally got myself some flexible filament and will print it... I love this grip, has come with me to many trips already!

excellent idea ... please advise as to your results and filament used .... TIA

I had one made for V3.0 and I wanted to share my disappointment. First, the thing broke within 1 day. The front "holders" that prevent the switch from falling out of the case snapped off. This wanst from rough handling either. Second, the holders left slight scratch marks on my joycons from rubbing against the unit. It needs some kind of modification to prevent scratching and needs something strong to keep from cracking off. Maybe I got a bad unit I dunno. It was also a bit rough in the hands so I'm not sure what to think didn't feel commercial at all.

Also while standing it up it felt very flimsy. If you bump it will fall face first into the table or ground possible cracking the screen. I feel some kind of 45Degree backward angle leg pop outs on both sides would be better.

I would suggest ordering it made from someone else or in a different material. I've see the "broken" tabs comment in a few comments out of hundreds who have made it or ordered it. Usually it's because the person who printed it chose to do so with too little infill or no infill. Can I ask you where you ordered it from?

As far as roughness, it all depends on the resolution it was printed with as well as the knowledge of the printer. Anything over 0.1 mm will feel very rough. It also depends on how much sanding was done. With how britle your print sounds, it would make sanding pretty useless since it would break in the process.

I was able to sand down the tabs on mine to be very smooth using a medium grit sanding sponge and a decent amount of pressure. The tabs never broke off with this pressure. I'm not a printing expert, but my first thought is that the problem is not the model but the quality of the print. Sorry you wasted some money with the print.

I adapted it for my Note 8.0. So easy to change the length of the back strap and it fits nicely over my Tablet with the case still fitted. Now making one for my wifes Tablet but in Portrait mode. Thanks for the great design.

Printed V2 with 5% infill*/0.2mm/PLA, Original Prusa i3 Mk2.

I have the Nyko Power Pack case so I cut the brace off and used double-sided tape (check YouTube for durability tests).

It is no exaggeration to say this is the absolute best mod for my Switch. I could barely get an hour in without cramps, but now I can run both batteries in one sitting X-D

Much Appreciated!!!

  • The walls are thick enough for me to not need infill at all. If these grips break it won't be from normal usage.

Could I ask if anyone can edit and repost v3 split in a different way? How about 3 pieces? A left grip, right grip, and the entire cross-member it's own piece that can socket into each side grip and be glued together. I would really appreciate it! My print bead is 150mm max and the current split requires a lot of support for the center bar and it winds up sagging/warping.

Just tried to print version 3 on my CR 10, right after it did a 2 day print flawlessly btw, and I had to stop halfway through.
Terrible stringing all from one end to the other.
Think I'm gonna give this one more try then maybe try the split version.
I'll let you know how I go...

Anyone else report problems like I've had?

i really like this print though ive had to slice the shoulder button rests off being as it doesnt fit on my printer, but so far i really like it, very good design

This worked out great. Thanks for posting

Thanks !! :)

Ordered V3 through Laughing Monkey Labs, been enjoying it for two days now. The grip feels exactly as I imagined that it would. Chose the Glow-In-The-Dark color for the hell of it and I absolutely love it. Thanks for designing this!

Thanks for leaving a comment. I appreciate the feedback :)

Whats that thing Velcro to the back of your switch??? also just did my first print of V3 and love it, will update when i used it more.

It's there so I can attach a bluetooth transmitter for wireless audio. Let us know what you think of the grip :)

hey i'm new to this. when i go to order a print of this on treatstock it says "v2" but I want to get v3... ideas? btw Thanks for making this!!!

Wow I tried it and you are right...it tries to print the first files I ever uploaded for this post.

I would recommend hitting the "Download All Files" button at the top of this post. Unzip the file and in the "files" folder take the "v3-whole" file and upload it directly on Treatstock.com

It's going to warn you that it's too big (over 250mm long)...just ignore that and pick a printer with a lot of reviews...they will have a printer that is large enough to print it.

Thanks man! btw would you recommend PLA or ABS for this? and how much infill?

Pla is Ok. 15 or 20 percent infill

Question would you be able to split up the V2 for people with small printers to print like the V1

I added a split of the new version (V3). Give it a try. I think V2A and V2B are inferior to it and also have a lot less material in the backplate in order to easily split them. I'll try to do it next time I have some free time to kill....had to little free time this weekend and used it on V3.

argh you updated lol I have one of the original designs printed in black that a customer ordered and canceled on me I was hoping to send out but now getting orders for the v2a.

So I have one of the originals if someone wants it at a discount price.

Again sorry about that. The design of the original is pretty decent but the reach for the shoulder buttons is a little difficult. The V2 model is probably better but I'm gonna try to scan the original Joycon Grip as I find that more comfortable. Nintendo really should make an extended Grip by now.

Love the design! The new versions are great for reaching the shoulder buttons, but the switch slides out too easily now. I think it's because the button two slots things are lower now, covering less of the grip compared to the first design.

Yeah I could make it tighter by like a millimeter. I just use a tiny piece of masking tape to bulk up the sides that touch the switch left and right. This will result in a tight fit that glides in smooth without scratching the joy cons.

Maybe when I split the models into 3 pieces I'll take the time to make them one millimeter tighter on the long side.

I'm also thinking of making one last version that's in between the two larger ones because the middle size version is still too small for my hands.

Yes please split. I have printed V1 and loved the direction, but it was a bit too large. I am super excited to print both new versions, but cant fit entire print on my bed.

I added a split of the new version (V3). Give it a try. I think V2A and V2B are inferior to it and also have a lot less material in the backplate in order to easily split them. I'll try to do it next time I have some free time to kill....had to little free time this weekend and used it on V3.

Made it and it came out great. Definitely more comfortable than the original version. Playing after an hour or so still shows some fatigue and I think it's due to the angle it pushes your hands outward.

I know how crazy hard creating 3D things are, but I think an awesome hybrid would be your frame design coupled with the standard Nintendo Joy-Con Charging Grip controller dimensions.

Printing V3 today. Thanks for splitting it. Looking forward to V2's being split. I will let you know what I think once complete.

I made a video for this
I want to request for a version of the grip that has grips from the original Joycon grip.

Thanks! Yeah I need to do that still. I'm going to try and get it done this week. It will be a little trickier with the compact version since the backplate is thinner than the original so there's less material to work cuts into. Hopefully it's easy.. I'm learning as I go.

Awesome dude! No rush, take as much time as you need to.

I added 2 new versions to the post to hopefully address the shoulder button reach discomfort. In the process I ended up creating a really compact version as well that might be useful for traveling. Check out the comparison screenshots (pic 5 through 7).

Great design in compactability! Unfortunately with the new design (V2B) it doesn't fit on my build plate. Would you be able to break it down into parts like the original? Thanks for the model!

I added a split of the new version (V3). Give it a try. I think V2A and V2B are inferior to it and also have a lot less material in the backplate in order to easily split them. I'll try to do it next time I have some free time to kill....had to little free time this weekend and used it on V3.

Awesome! I'm going to try and Print one on Monday!

Thanks so much for all your hard work just ordered a print of the v2

favorite print in a long time, thanks a lot man. however i printed the one piece version and the two parts still kinda print as two parts just an fyi

Man this is almost perfect is their anyway you can make a version were the triggers line up in place of the fake Xbox triggers.Great job

Thanks. I hope to do that soon when I have some time to redesign it. It'll probably be a couple of weeks from now.

Your awesome and thanks for all your hard work

I made 2 new versions to hopefully address the shoulder button issue. Check out the screenshots for clarity (pic 5 through 7).

This thing is so good I registered to comment on how much I f***ing love it.

It's like two big handfuls of chocolate every time I pick it up.

If you're on the fence about it, MAKE IT. IT ROCKS. I used PLA and did the multi piece version, rubber cemented it together and it's AWESOME.

11 out of 10.

Comments deleted.

Does the PLA last long for something like this?

you should make a slot in it. You cover up the air holes on the back of the system.
Just saying

It doesn't cover any vents. I just added a picture at the end that shows that for clarity.

Just started printing mine. Question about the multiple pieces, what is the tolerance for the fit between the grips and the center piece? EDIT:
(helps if I read) You can easily add tolerances in Tinkercad by utilizing the rectangular shape as a hole piece. Since I just started printing mine I'll just sand and deal with the first print.

As I wrote in the description, I did the splitting in tinkercad which offers no way to add tolerance. Most likely you'll have to sand the inner rails down a lot to make it fit. Sorry... I didn't have the right tools to generate a split model with tolerances.

I saw, you can add tolerances in tinkercad ;)

Did you end up having to sand it a whole lot to get the pieces to fit?

I did, the sanding to get the pieces together wasn't too bad, but it is about 1mm too wide. some of the groove details from the xbox controller on the handle printed pretty sharp as well. Hardly noticeable in all honesty and works fantastically. I am printing another for a coworker where I am going to do a little bit more finishing work since they don't have the same makerspace I do.

I'm interested in printing this but was curious as to which service you printed with? Also what options (infill %, Layer Thickness, Material Choices, Color, etc.) which would be really helpful.

I usually print with Treatstock as it's the cheapest. If you upload the model directly to their website they let you chose which printer service (where you can read reviews for each one). If you do it through the Thingiverse apps it doesn't let you do that.

Treatstock doesn't let you pick infill or layer resolution, just material type and color. This means the resolution and infill are largely left to decide to the printer service although most likely they will print at 0.1mm layer res and 15% or 20% infill. There's a chance they will pick 0.2mm resolution because of the size of the model being big, they want to minimize print time. 0.2mm should be fine..just a little harder to sand to smooth but it won't affect the usability of this part.

I would suggest printing through treatstock with PLA material and then messaging them after you place the order to tell them that you want it "printed Standing up right" with a 0.1mm layer res. I don't know if 15% infill is enough but I almost never mention infill to them.

Just make sure you pick a printer with a bed size of 300mm x 200mm or bigger. The stadard 200mm x 200mm bed size won't accomodate the "whole" version of the model.

If you want it printed with extra care, pick "Laughing Monkey Labs" printing service through Treatstock. He printed it twice for me when he wasn't happy with the first result. The second print he sent was fantastic and he's printed several of them already so he knows how to print it best. He posted a make of it above.

Tried to print this and the long bar in the middle keeps falling and stringing. any tips?

yesssss ... supports off the bed only ...

I'll can ask the guy who printed it for me. He's a pro service and should know right away. It doesn't look like there was any issues with the middle bar when he printed it.
Would you be able to send me a screenshot link of the support material that your software is adding print the middle bar? Maybe that will help him provide advice. I can forward that to him.

I was able to get it to print! I used meshmixers supports and was able to keep the middle from falling in!

Awesome glad you got it to work. You should post a make with some pics when you can. I would love to see how it ends up.

I have just added pics of the printed result. I roughly sanded it to smooth it out so it looks discolored but it feels great! One good tip is that you can chose to add a small layer of foam to the inside of the bottom slots to get the tablet to sit at your preferred height. Adding some foam to move the tablet up on makes it easier to use the right stick for games that use that stick a lot. The width of the foam you add can also let you customize how inset the ZL and ZR shoulder buttons feel. With more foam they stick out more if that feels better on your grip.

Let me know what you think and what improvements could be made.

Nicely done! This looks way more ergonomic then my designs

Thank you! The first one you published was what gave me the idea to do this. It was a much better experience than the approach of trying to use a piece that goes in the rail between the joycon and the tablet.

i started this print 3 times with different temps and fill. the first 3 curled. I am watching the 4th go now, 28% though and so far it looks perfect. I just threw a fan on the desk in front of the printer to cool down the grip parts faster. printing with Inland PLA 215 / 60

Did it print OK for you with the added cooling? How does it feel? Mine is in the mail from a professional printer as I don't own one. I'm not experienced to give any tips as far as printing. Should be here tomorrow so I can take pics.

printed great, and fits my hands very well. makes using the system on the go much easier.

Awesome! Did the tablet slide in well or is it too snug/loose?

it fits in pretty close to perfect. though I wouldn't jump up and down without holding the system in place it slides in easy and doesn't bounce around in there. also I have 1 question and 1 comment for future versions. first what app did you use to import the xbox controller handle? did you use a picture or build it manually, and in a future version I would suggest smoothing out the seem lines for the button front and back and the "screw hole" especially where the seam at the bottom of the handle, those were the spots where the printer had the worst time laying everything out perfect.

Oh good. Maybe it could be an even snugger fit by glueing a piece of thin felt in the slots. That would make it even safer to not scratch the device with the plastic.

I got the xbox controller model from a free model on 123D: http://www.123dapp.com/123D_Design/Xbox-controller/5175164

As you can see if you download those STL files, it has all the internals modeled. I used tinkercad to modify it, so I didn't have the tools to clean it up properly, like filling in the seams accurately. I had to use the basic shapes that tinkercad provides to delete all unnecessary internal details of the model. I could have probably done some trickery to remove the seams by making a duplicate of the model and playing with the duplicate's size and then merging in duplicates, but at the time I did that part I was less skilled with the tricks you can do in tinkercad.

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to start learning on using Fusion 360. Maybe that program will let me smooth out all the seams with better tools.

Smoothing the mesh in 360 was a Beeeee - Yatch ... Meshmixer may be a better tool for that ... I made a re-mix for meeeself using the 3 piece design of the other guy you let remix it - but used brass inserts and M3 screws to snug it all up together - my make.


Nintendo Switch Comfort Grip

This might alleviate the bending issue people are having. Will build when I purchase one.