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Empiricus

Cooling Fan/Shroud with 5cm Blower and Sensor for Wanhao D6/Ultimate

by Empiricus Apr 8, 2017
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I know thecricketer remixed this for a bltouch and generic 5015.
Has anyone done this with the later v11 version with changes?
I was thinking about picking up some of these for WAY less than the pabst.

https://smile.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-50x50x15mm-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Replacement/dp/B07DQ7F1T7/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_5/147-0907145-3528726?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07DQ7F1T7&pd_rd_r=1bcb0066-4536-11e9-bf30-a9c66916e9f7&pd_rd_w=vV31f&pd_rd_wg=01Iiq&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=ZAJHXAXKB7PNEFK5RNMT&psc=1&refRID=ZAJHXAXKB7PNEFK5RNMT

Awesome fan or not, It's an expensive fan I'll never use if I ever end up ditching for an e3d hot end.

The bltouch support just makes it easier to later incorporate and make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290 which is versatile depending on what I settle on for a bed surface.

BFPTouch - Poor's man BLtouch. A simple, cheap, neat, precise, compact and reliable any surface Z Proble for bed leveling.

Just use another shroud then. There are many excellent designs out there. The fan is the point of the shroud and it is designed for max air flow. A 5015 can never work on this shroud in the space available on the printer unless you cut off the funnel on the fan. The step is there so feel free to make the bl touch version you may want.

Hello, I have a CR2020 that I want to modify and use your design, but your STP file does not have a version without an NPN sensor. Can you add a sensor-free version? Thank you

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The step is there so you can make your own changes and post the results for everyone

Sorry, I didn't express my meaning clearly, but the STP file you provided was not able to delete your sensor installation position when I made the modification. I only changed the position of the fixed hole, so I needed a version without a sensor.

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I tried to change the stl file that doesn't contain the sensor with Boolean operations, but I don't know how to align the two STL files for operation. Mainly the hole position is a bit different, as shown below
picture 1 show:I use the stp file to mod,the hole was complete(look at red arrow).But,the sensor part can not remove perfect(yellow arrow).
pictrue 2 show: I made a stl for Boolean(blue arrow),But I can not let them align to black line.

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My soft is CREO 、solidworks and fusion 360,and I mean:Will you email me your source file?

Just wanted to let you know I am referencing your great work here in my soon to be released book on 3d printing. Highlighting modding, community, collaboration, evolution, and this (IMO) ultimate "best" design. :)

Cool, definitely a community effort.

Is there any chance you will create 40mmx20mm Duct Fan version? Thanks

No reason for it. Did this a long time ago and it is not as easy as putting the 40 cm fan on it. Airflow will be different and 40x20cm will hit the enclosure on left when homing. So this would be a little bit more involved reconstruction that requires testing. There are other shrouds that use 40x20 fans.

I've modified the STL to bring the right side mount lips down to the air flow ring so no supports are needed. Do you want the STL or blend?

Not going click/download images on message boards. Just post the stl/blender model and people can try. However, there is a reason why it is as it is. You don't want to be too close to the heat block or restrict airflow to/from the heat barrier block. Otherwise the upper part of the extruder gets too hot. But if it works it works.

Hi Empiricus, I tried loading version 7 into Fusion360 and it keeps loading as a mesh and not a solid? I'm looking to add some "wind vanes" to the corner of the blower opening because there's a portion of the print where it tries to print the ceiling as a bridge with a radius. The vanes would help direct some of the airflow past the first inner nozzle but also act as support when the print hits the ceiling portion. around layer 75 or so...

You would need the .step file to be able to edit in Fusion. I see if I still have that around for that version, did all this some time ago when I first got the printer.

The 4 nozzle version was an earlier attempt. The 3 nozzle version is the best for high volume airflow.

Ok Thanks! Waiting for my fan to arrive and I just ordered a silicone boot today

Has anyone had an issue with the PID calibration. I ran it twice and after each time I cannot keep the right temp without the heater shutting down. The first time I could not get over 206 degrees...then started dropping rapidly. Added back in the original settings and it works fine.

Using Merlin 1.1 RC8

You have a silicone boot on the heat block?

What is the probe offset from the nozzle please? I have looked through the readme.txt and through the thread, but I cant find it. It looks like X= -30 Y= -15, but I'm hoping someone has an accurate measurement please.

// Front side Mount -- 12mm Probe offsets
;#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 35 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -15 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
*/

This is, by miles, the best cooler for the D6. Nicely done dude! It's worth paying for the specific fan to do a decent job. Thanks for your work mate.

Thanks. I did all this quite some time ago when I first got the printer. I am glad that it is still of use. Mine is humming away for two years now. Not even think about adjusting or testing anything anymore I just design and print the parts I need.

Hello again! Would it be at all possible to post one without the ABL mount? I don't use one and it obstructs my camera view. I have tried, with my limited CAD skills, to remove it, but I just make a mess. I'd be very appreciative.

Added version 11 without the probe mount. It is worth learning Fusion 360 in the long run.

Thank you so much dude and yes, I'm currently doing the Lars Christiensen Fusion360 lessons on YouTube, but we haven't got that far yet lol. Thanks again dude, I really appreciate it. It's unquestionably the best part cooling solution for the D6.

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This is, by far, the best part cooling solution for the D6. I really couldn't be more impressed. It's worth spending the extra money for the custom 5015 fan it requires.
You absolutely MUST run a PID tune on your hot end with the fan at 50% and the bed up to temp. Mine came out with the figures P:60.84, I:10.92 & D:84.73. I'm using a MicroSwiss all metal, silicon sock and just this blower upgrade. It seems to take a while for the nozzle to heat, but I'm not getting any errors, unless I whack the fan up to 100% from the off.
Bravo Empiricus!. I tried a few before this and they either wouldn't mount properly, or they cooled the nozzle rather than the part, giving me thermal errors.

Thanks for the kind words. Make sure that the heat block is set at an angle as shown or the air flow may hit the back of it too much. I guess the PID tune is more important since Wanhao decreased the wattage of the heat elements to 40W from the original 60W. Still using the 60W and I can blast away at 100% for PLA.

Looks Great! Came recommended from a few D6 users. do you know if the EBM-PAPST RLF35-8/14N requires you to reverse the leads when wiring? Red + Blue -?

Why ? Unless someone soldered the leads wrong, red is always plus.

I've read a lot of the standard fans are reverse polarity and can fry your motherboard. I just did not want to assume. Thank you.

Hello Empiricus, any chance you could enable the ability to order this printed? I don't have confidence that I can print it well enough to be used....... I have it printing on my MP Maker Select v2 in PETG since my Ultimate is printing lithophanes for a project deadline, fingers crossed........

Thanks for your work on this.

Jerry

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No problem. The Select failed 3 hours in, supports turned to little fur balls. Supports are an issue in PETG I have not been able to resolve. Changed to higher in-fill supports try # 2 of 999,999 is running now.

Thanks again.

Are you using Simplify3D? supports failing? Never heard about such a problem. Why would that apply specifically to PETG? Are you printing too hot?

Any chance some one could make a bl-touch mount version?

Someone mentioned they wanted to do one. I don't plan to as I don't have one of those nor need one. Not sure about dimensions etc. Doing these things without being able to test is always pain. Otherwise easy if it doesn't restrict print head movement.

Makes sense. Maybe I could give it a go my self. Any recommendation on software? Is 3ds max overkill? ( I have done 3d modeling / animation before in 3ds but never to print )

Or send me a link to the dimensions and I see whether it would fit, but you would need to test it.

I'm 99% done on this one with the prototype printing as I write this. Once I test it out, if it works, I'll be happy to post it.

So I'm trying to modify this duct design, and am having an issue importing the .step file into Onshape. Any chance you could double check that the step file is correct?
I get the following error:
Translation completed with errors
Vesion11_v1.step was translated with errors.
The following 1 surface(s) failed validation and have been removed:

"Vesion11 v1" - number of faults:1

Thanks, Drew

I don't use Onshape so can't comment on what their problem is. This is a regular step file. Better to use Fusion 360 anyway (Look at Onshapes new EULA)

The new licensing language that precluded CC or GPL licensing? The cynic in me already expected that was in there, but hey, now it's official. Thanks for the quick reply, I'll see if I can track down a buddy with a Fusion install, or spin up a VM, I've only got Linux machines.

On Linux Blender will do although a little strenuously. There are 3D printing plugins for it. Or OpenScad or Freecad

How do you manage to not get heater errors?
Every time my fan starts cooling it cools the nozzle so much down that the print stops with an error. But when I slowly increase the fan speed my fist layers are not cooled enought.

I have no issue running this at 100% when printing PLA. PETG I run at 30%. Usually I print first 3-5 layers without cooling for any filament on my PEI bed. My heater is 60W. You have a silicon boot ? Are you running Marlin firmware ? There you could adjust the time frame for these errors. They come up when the temperature is not kept constant or controlled in a certain time period. What filament and temp setting? Bed surface?

These are some great tips! Thank you!
I am using the stock heater. Which heater would you recommend? A silicone boot will be the next upgrade. I hope it will protect the nozzle from the airflow. I tried the Marlin firmware but there was some problem with it so I went back to stock firmware. But I will try it again, because adjusting this time frame would probablly solve my problem.

I am using the heater that came with the printer and replacement heater from Wanhao I ordered with it. They are stamped 60W. I heard that newer printer may have 40W heater elements. Should be stamped on it. The silicone boot should do it. Further down this thread someone posted a nice instruction on how to calibrate for the enhanced airflow. Basically Marlin would anticipate required heating instead of just responding to decreased temp.

Hi Empiricus,

Phenomenal work on this. I use it on my Duplicator 6 now and the cooling is the best I've seen with the EBM.

Are you willing to release the design files for this? I'm looking to adapt this to the Prusa MK3 and was hoping you could save me some time rather than modifying the STL's.

Thanks either way!

I uploaded the step file so you can edit this. Just remember the derivatives need to stay free for everyone.

Truly appreciate i!. And yes; will absolutely adhere to the GPL.

Completely endorse this cooling shroud. Great work combining a few good ideas into one great design.
The only mod I would make is a adapter for different blowers as the blower required is a amazing one but hard to get and very expensive.

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Just nothing for compatibility and ease of use as tying it to one blower does limit the usability for all. I also quite easily attached my old blower to the unit and it worked just fine (no issues with size either) so it IS quite possible.

BUT, and to note for everyone the blower you use the EBM-PAPST RLF35-8/14N (I did finally get one) is worth the 4x price!! it is crazy powerful and allows you to run it at much lower rpm for normal printing (with some good room for a boost when bridging.) So from that POV it was very worth the upgrade. Again Great work!

Please let everyone know which alternative blower will work. I agree the Pabst is well worth the money.

Can someone tell me how to connect the blowerfan. I can not find an electrical drawing on how to or were to connect the blowerfan connector.

Thx in advance.

You would connect the same way as the regular fan would connect on top of the print head. Not sure what additional info you're are looking for?

Thanks Empiricus for your answer,
I just bought my first 3D printer (Wanhao D6) so I am totally new. I will take a look this evening on the printer head. If I am lucky my first 3D print, your design, will also be finished.

Yesterday I looked at the printer head. No connectors left in there. Only one connector for the current fan, but because this fan is going to be replaced and an optional blowerfan is added I am missing one connector point in the printer head. So were or how should I connect this blower fan?

My first print went pretty well in ABS. Only some minor faults at the bottom of the print. But for a first attempt it is not bad. Thanks for this great design.

The 5cm blower will replace the previous nozzle cooling fan so you use those contacts. (The contact on the left in front of the contact for the 2nd constant speed fan that sits on the cooling block . You need do that so the blower speed can be changed. If you want to ad more fans you need to splice the cables together. Not sure why you would do that though and never combine different fans or blowers on one outlet.

I got it !!! Today a took a better look at de printer head and found out that there are two fan's (maybe need a pair off glasses). Thanks for your explanations, it helpt to solve my problem.

Checked out version 10 and 11 today; cool ideas.

Unfortunately neither of them would slice in Simplify3d at first. i thought something was wrong with those model(s). Turns out I needed to change option "internal thin wall type" from "allow single extrustion". Otherwise it would hang forever slicing.

Cool work! I'll print one out and check out the changes.

PLA is not advisable for shrouds as it will get soft at only 60C. That is easily reached at the nozzles and in the back were the silicone boot doesn't insulate. PLA is also very stiff maybe difficult to snap in the blower. PETG will hold up to 80C, ABS even better up to 100C. If you just print PLA with no heated bed on it may hold up but if you print ABS with 100C printed Bed PLA will likely sag or disintegrate and crash into the print. Thanks for using the model. Cheers

Over time PLA will be an issue for sure, for shorter periods and the PLA temps (195c) I am printing, it works fine. I have a different 5015 blower style cooler on here now in PLA, it required less bridging than yours so I printed this first, then yours with this installed (many prints in between) and now once my enclosure arrives tomorrow I will reprint this in ABS while using the pabst and the PLA cooler version for best results. Well that's my hope anyway, I've never printed anything in ABS yet. I do have, the full MS all metal hotend, so with the factory enclosure I should be good. My plan is to use the D6 as my high temp printer. Do I use parts cooling on ABS? Thanks again!

I wrote down my basic print setting in the groups for reference https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/wanhao-d6-upgrades. With ABS I use enclosure and 30-60% blower to cool the part. Silicone boot will be important for a high temp printer.

Thanks a lot. I have the boot already!

My pabst fan arrived yesterday and I just printed v11 in PLA, I will reprint in ABS once my enclosure gets here for the d6. Thanks for the design!

The walls are thin enough of the model that you don't necessarily need an enclosure to print it in ABS. Just make sure that there is no major draft. Give it a 0 offset 10 perimeter 2 layer brim to nail things down. You are right otherwise, an enclosure is required for larger or thicker models in ABS.

This is the fan intended for this model, correct? Its described as a 50MMx20MM 24VDC

https://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=244457075&uq=636467235383430179

The fan is clearly described in the thing details. Only the EBM-PAPST RLF35-8/14N will fit. No other fan will fit the intake or the available space without modifications. Copy an image and description not going to click on linked webpages.

Sorry about that. Not so clearly described in the thing details that I see.

You might indicate that in the beginning of the description with verbiage like:

"This model is designed for this 24v fan EBM-PAPST RLF35-8/14N found online in places like Mouser."

Thank you for the great design. I cant wait until the fan shows up to try it.

Cheers :)

Thank you for this model, seems really great (in theory)!
Printed v11 in PETG, was trying it with RLF35-8/14N and seems like everything is a little bit off? (my printer has been doing correct dimensions otherwise, afaik) I couldn't snap the fan in without really really forcing it (which made a tiny crack in the shroud and forces the left side of the shroud to be visibly lower than the rest) and the top of the shroud and fan definitely hit the linear bearing as it goes to the left, losing about 1.5-2 inches. Any ideas what could be happening?
thank you!

If you have any problems snapping it in clean the opening for the fan before inserting it. Make sure that the top clears the bearing before fixing it in place. If installed correctly, it won't hit anything. I still use version 10. Made 11 on request as someone had problems with the attachments on the left breaking but other dimensions weren't changed. Photo?

I'm still using V11 ( I see you removed, still have the STL though) and it works perfectly.

Thanks I'll put it up again.

Got this and the fan. The fan is ridiculous. I had to cover my heatblock 5 times over with kapton tape to even use 60% of the power.

Yes this blower works quite well. I would recommend a silicone boot. The tape is not designed for heat insulation just heat resistant covering of electrical contacts and consequently is fairly useless in this application. Kapton tape has decent heat transfer quality and is therefore also used as print surface. I used it for a few days before I designed this shroud but it didn't do much for stabilizing heat block temperatures at high print speeds even with multiple layers and was difficult to apply uniformly and to remove for nozzle changes. I only use the blower at 100% for PLA. 60-70 % for everything else. Cheers

This blower works very well.

If you use Marlin firmware, I would recommend a PID calibration so that the temp settings on the hot end can keep up with the increased airflow.

If you run the calibration at the command line, (Using a Serial Terminal like Putty), issue a:

M303 E0 S200 C8

This will run the PID calibration 8 times to 200C and produce final settings at the end.

The article on this is at: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

I went from (Stock Fan/Shroud):
M301 P25 I1.13 D126.99

To (This Fan/Shroud):
M301 P30 I1.74 D127.66

This stabilized the temperature nicely at both zero fan, and 55% fan with this shroud.

M500 will save these settings to EEPROM so they stick between reboots.
M503 will show you the current settings so you can see where you started.

The calibration process changes nothing, it simply shows you the values at the end.

Also, I used EPC to print it and it came out gorgeous.

Awesome design.

Another word of advice.

Where this shroud bolts on (with M3 screws). Keep them short.

There is a set screw in this hole to keep the rod bearings seated inside the head and too long of an M3 screw will crush/disintegrate them.

I had my rod bearing pop out twice before I realized there were set screws inside that needed to be tightened.

Will certainly give the PID calibration a try. Are you using a silicone boot? This seems to be a necessary adjustment if you ad the blower without a boot for sure. I tried polycarbonate before but I had more wrapping than ABS? Thanks for the kind feedback.

Sent you a message about this.

V11 works perfect. Thank you.

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I made a snap-fit adapter to add on a 5015 blower fan to this. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2454455

Snap Fit 5015 Blower Fan Adapter for the Empiricus D6 5cm Fan Mount

Unfortunately this won't work. The blower cannot extend above the top of the intake or it will hit the mechanics on the left side when homing. Be careful if you attach it.

I checked it out after and your right. However I do have the microswiss upgrade and the blower sits kinda high with the this (jets are at the level of the top rim of the nozzle. So I test fitted it lower (about the space of the stock 40mm fan that sits there) it and that stopped it from hitting the mechanics. so I may make up a dummy spacer the size and shape of a 40mm fan housing to lower it. The next hurdle then was a small few mm of the top edge of the fan housing touching the plexi sides. I think if I make an "innie" fan plugin instead of the "outtie" I have. I think then it might not touch. If that's not enough, I can shave a few mm off of the the fan port like you had originally suggested. I'm pretty determined to get something to work.

Started a group for discussing designs and improvements also https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/wanhao-d6-upgrades/things

If you have a spec sheet with the exact dimensions or a 3d model things would be easy. All should fit if the top of the blower is flush with the top of the air intake. Changing the angle of the blower will hit the enclosure as well. You can drop the bottom 2-3mm but than you hit easily curled up parts and knock of the print. It will work somehow for sure.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1576438 Is the 3D model for the fan I'm using

5015 Blower Fan 50x15

I added a version 7 5015 that might work. Still would remove the funnel as much as possible everything is quite close to the inner wall.

Thanks for adding that; I'll check it out this evening after work. What's the difference in the version 7 5015. Was looking at it in the 3d view on thingiverse. The outlet on the fan itself has dimensions of 15mm tall by 20mm wide.

This is made to fit the model of the 5015 blower you send above. So if the model is accurate it should work. At least it should be close.The whole blower will fit into the opening.

Just to update; the Fan fits in like you said, did a little bit of dremel work on the inlet to get it to fit in a little better. The top edge of the fan sticks up above the shroud by a few MM which doesn't cause it to hit the mechanics but does cause it to lightly tap into the plexi side. Doesn't interfere with the homing though. I'm gonna dremel a little off of the fan to solve that. I had also printed out a 40mm fan spacer to lower the whole duct down close to the tip of the nozzle so I'm not blasting the top of my nozzle and heat block. Got enough gap going so I'm not scraping bottom or gonna hit minor imperfections. My next challenge is because I've lowered it, the other support arms that bolt on to the carriage block aren't long enough. Was gonna zip tie it at first but it'd be messy and could go into the cooling fan. I could also extend that part in mesh mixer but don't really want to wait for the print again. So I'm gonna try to dremel out a bit more around the screw holes of those support arms and then stretch it up a little to make it fit. Should work. Just need more time. Thanks for the help thus far; really like your design because it keeps open access to the heater block making it easier and quicker to change out nozzles. There was only 1 other 5015 duct on thingiverse that I found and if I wanted to change nozzles; I'd have to dismantle the duct off, change the nozzle, and then piece it back together.

Forgot ask as I don't under stand what you describe by "My next challenge is because I've lowered it, the other support arms that bolt on to the carriage block aren't long enough". Cheers

Thanks for feedback and kind words. Glad it works, hard to make something without having the parts. I have several hotends with different nozzles sizes or brass and steel nozzles and I need constant access as well.

I'm interested in having this work since I did buy a two pack of this fan for another printer. It would be nice to use the other for this printer! Thanks for your work, very nice. Any breakthroughs?

Thanks for the interest. I assume your referring to the 5015 generic 50mm blowers with a funneI. Made the version 5015 without having the actual blower only a 3d model someone made. So your mileage may vary. Obviously, I could not test airflow distribution etc on that version. It worked for Newfinator. Most of these should work as the back is completely open now, you may have to cut of the funnel. I started a group so one can discuss independent of all the different thing related comments where discussions get lost easily (wanhao-d6-upgrades). If there is a good 3d model from the manufacturer it only takes a few minutes to add these.

Sure those are the ones were you have to cut off the funnel to get them to fit or redesign the shroud.

Thanks for the reply, I actually was reading that the fan that I have wont work with this printer (mine is 12v) I need a 24v fan for the D6 correct? So if that's the case I could just purchase a new one.

Yes you need 24V. You can reduce the voltage of course like described here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1666096). One of the reasons this printer is so great is that it has a 24V hotend that equates to fast heat up times and stable heat. If you get a new one consider the one I used. It is worth it.

Wanhao Duplicator 6 blower fan upgrade for extruder and part cooling

Yes I would rather buy a new one than mess with the power supply. I appreciate the link though.

I am testing a new three nozzle version with larger duct volume and more distance from the hotend for the 50mm ebm past that should be up in the next 2-3 days. Nothing wrong with the current 4 nozzle version, but just in case you start printing and a new version appears....

Wait, can this use the default fan?

I printed the shroud. I ordered the probe and fan. Installation went well, but when I auto home, the probe is not even over the build plate? It's sticking out over the front of the plate, thus will not trigger.

You did not successfully load the PNP config. I assume you follow 1bigpig's instructions. Make sure that all other software connecting to the printer is closed. You need to exchange the Configuration.h in the Marlin Folder with the Configuration_PNP_FrontProbe_mount.h (example_configurations folder) and rename into Configuration.h. Load into Arduino make sure that the U8glib is loaded and save. Compile and upload. If the right config is loaded the printer will home to the middle of the left side of the print bed.

Hey, I'm having some difficulty finding this particular config example, is it still available?

Also there is a Marlin_firmware_How2Update.pdf in the Marlin-Duplicator-6-RC8 folder that explains the update process in detail.

Thanks man. I did not swap the configs around. Did it and it works great.

No worries. Let me know how the ABS holds up on long prints.Have fun.

Has anyone printed this in ABS? Does it need to be scaled to 101%?

Sorry don't know. You may have to widen the holes for the screws to get it to fit. The tolerances are pretty tight on the M12x1 mm thread. Would print the nut and see how it fits.

I printed it at 100%. All screw holes lined up perfectly.

Nice, good ABS.

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Is it possible to get a standard style 50x50x15 blower (non-wide outlet) made for this. I had started printing this only to realize halfway through that it wasn't going to fit my fan. Or perhaps you have a Fusion 360 file to share?

I can ad this or upload a .step if autodesk can recover the Fusion 360 file. Right now I can't load the file as it appears to be corrupted. Cloud based stuff stinks and fools you in false security. Save archive files often if you use Fusion 360. Was adding a proximity sensor to this. Send a link to the fan you want to use or a picture on how it fits right now, should be easy to ad.

https://spool3d.ca/24v-centrifugal-fan-ball-bearing-50mm-x-50mm/ This one please. It's really hard to find a 50x50x15 blower for the D6 apparently. There's only one I've found that is basically just a bracket to attach one, no ductwork. So you might be the first to have one of that style if you can remix it for that fan. Thanks a lot, really appreciate it.

I put up a version 5b that may fit that blower. Let me know how things go. Have fun.

Where is the 5b version?

I put it up again but it has the old nozzles and I don't have a blower like that so your mileage may vary... Good luck should fit after cutting off 2-3 mm of the funnel.

There wasn't any feed back on it so I took it down. Nevertheless, you will have to modify the fan as these are too long with the funnel to fit into the available space on the printer. They cannot extend above the shroud in any way or they will hit the mechanics. I'll put it up again.

Sorry, I had moved around that point so everything for the next month or two was packed up and schedule was chaos. Finally got around to printing just now. I've been trying to find a 5015 non-wide mouth fan bracket that still gives access to the heat block for ease of changing nozzles as well as does not reduce the build size. Unfortunately looking at my fan; if I cut away at it; still wouldn't fit quite right. The best thing I can think of to try and get it to work is to flip the fan over backwards to mount so the screw holes line up as well as make an adapter to go on my fan to fit that plug-in hole. Either that or try and order one of the fans that currently fits it. Appreciate the quick responses and putting 5b back up.

Yes I played around with the 3d models of similar ones and they seem to be all a few mm too tall/long for the available space. Wouldn't want to move the nozzle closer to the heat block. One reason I went with the Pabst one. I would just get one as they are superbly smooth and certainly move air convincingly even at 50-60% better than everything I tried. The one you have would be great also to cool the motherboard of the printer.

I have found the 3D model for a similar fan with the same form factor Delta Electronics BFB0524HH. These kind of blowers won't fit without cutting off part of the blower funnel otherwise they would hit the printer mechanics and the airflow inside the shroud would be impaired. So not that easy after all but possible.

Made an adapter; that I posted in comments above.

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Fusion 360 support is excellent got access to the file again. I think I will get one of those as well and see how it compares to the $$$$ one.

Any updates? I'd like to model this with a mount for the 18mm diameter sensor as well

Thanks for the interest. I didn't have any reason to change this. Works flawless no issues at all. Maybe I will remove areas that are not required, thinning stuff out. But that is cosmetic really. Where would you ad the M18 mount? As the double range short version Omron M12 probe has the same sensing range as the M18 probes there is really no reason to loose print area over M18 anymore for glass beds. Anything extending beyond the back of this will potentially hit the steppers in the back. In the front the M18 are too wide and tall and will interfere with the belt in the front. The only place would be next to the blower but then you restrict airflow. The probe I used just has the perfect size to fit without problems.

I was thinking of adding it on the back like 1bigpig's mount. The reason I'm using the M18 mount instead of the Omron M12 double length probe is because I don't want to pay that much for a probe and the reduced build area is not a big deal for me right now. It's just an option. I don't disagree that the Omron M12 with double range is probably superior, but not in price.

Edit:
You know what, I think I'll order one simply for the option of NC (normally closed).

I also want to note you listed the wrong part number as that was a M18 8mm NO PNP

I plan on ordering a E2B-M12KN08-WP-C2 2M, which is a M12, 8mm NC NPN. With the NPN, you only need a diode instead of a voltage converter, and with NC you get the safety feature of if the probe fails or gets disconnected, the board will act as if it's been triggered instead of crashing.

I added an M18 port to version 6 for testing. Assume this has an M18x1 thread. This is meant to be printed from bottom up so needs support under the M18 port. Same position as 1bigpigs M18 probe. Let me know if this works

Thanks for catching the typo. The one I have is indeed the E2B-M12KN08-WP-B1 2M. How do you hook those NPN up with the diode? They come in long and short version make sure you get the short version otherwise they may hit the belt. Mouser has the data sheet.with all of them listed. Cheers

Awesome, I'll print this out later this week.