Before I list the build process and parts required please thank http://www.thingiverse.com/schrodingers_cat/about for the original design.
So I started this project because I wanted a modified Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 joystick to use with DCS world primarily for rotary wing flight with a more realistic cyclic grip.
I found the original design but it was made for a car gear shift stick and so it didn't allow for the routing of any wires to the buttons and there wasn't anywhere to mount a micro switch for the trigger or the 4-way navigation switch.
I took the original .step file and modified it using Fusion360 so that I could use this cyclic as a joystick.
This is not a complete step by step guide or a how to build but I will put up a few pictures, tips and links to parts so that others can have a go at this project as well.
This is not a print and snap together project, it will require some fine soldering, some glue work and a basic knowledge of hobby level electronics also depending on which joystick you decide to use as a base for this project.
Good luck and please discuss openly in the comments section to help everyone out with ideas and issues.
You will also need a USB cable to plug the USB controller into you computer if you don't have a spare.
This is a link to the forum which shows you how to beef up the MSFFB2 joystick with a bit more grunt https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=125281.
Steps I took for assembly:
Did the MSFFB2 resistor mod and tested to make sure it worked properly.
Pull the original MSFFB2 joystick grip off, cut the wires and pulled them through the base of the joystick and removed the wires along with the electrical connector from the circuit board. (NOTE: doing this will mean that the force feeback motors and powered full time once you plug your joystick into the wall socket, you can mod a switch in to turn the force feedback on and off if you don't want to keep turning the power off at the wall.)
Solder all the wiring onto the buttons, micro switch and navigation switch. Wiring diagrams for the nav switch are found on its website in a .pdf.
Run the wiring through the holes in the joystick and push the 3 buttons into place. If they are loose use some hot glue to hold them.
Add the 1 or 2 pin connectors to the other end of the wires and plug them into the USB controller. Plug the USB controller into your PC and test the buttons before proceeding.
Mount the trigger on the left body with the screw and nut to hold it's position, then fit the spring and spring retention plate. Temp fit the micro switch and check that it depresses when pulling the trigger. Adjust the micro switch position as needed then screw/glue in position. Remove the trigger and spring.
Fit the Nav switch into its position and hold with hot glue.
Now that all of the electronics are installed you can fit the right body (make sure the trigger spring place is installed) and screw the 2 halves together. Then fit the trigger spring and trigger. Test to make sure it all functions to your liking.
Route the wires down through the middle of the joystick and through the base. I drilled a 10mm hole in the back of the base to route the wires out. You may need to loosen the 2 screws in the base of the cyclic to clamp it onto the joystick post.
- Connect the wires to the USB controller and install it in the controller box.
That should provide a bit of an idea as to how I went about building this project. If you have any extra questions (which I'm sure many of you will from my vague description haha) please ask in the comments and I will answer when I can unless someone else beats me to it.
Enjoy and look out for a single twist grip throttle collective which I'm working on as well.
The print settings aren't crucial so you can use what ever works for your printer and material. I recommend 3 walls with 20% minimum for strength especially if using a force feedback joystick. I used supports for the Left and Right bodies to keep a perfect shape for the button holes.
Sorry for the orientation of the files. Obviously lay them flat on your build plate for printing.