Anet A8 - PSU cover for S-240-12

by AVZ, published

Anet A8 - PSU cover for S-240-12 by AVZ Apr 9, 2017


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Updates to come (02/08/2017)
Soon I'll add a slot for a key switch, so it will make the machine child safe when turned off. At this moment I'm working on a new cover, which will have a hole for a 85x46mm power consumption display. Unfortunately, there's no way to fit both with the stock PSU height.

Updates 24/07/2017
Uploaded a new version for short flange S-240-12 version. Moved all the holes 6mm higher, and also the cut where bottom side of the flange rests. Some PSUs could have that short flange, at least in the US. Measure yours before choosing normal flange (approx 18mm) or short flange (approx 12mm). Thanks to @airrelic for the input.

Updates 24/06/2017
Uploaded a new version. Changed some dimensions. Now the side bolts thread in a M3 nut, instead of in the piece itself.

This is a PSU cover for Anet A8. It fits for S-240-12 PSU and allows you to install a rocker switch socket like the one you can see in the attached picture.
Doesn't need supports, brims, or whatever...
It's reinforced in the inside. I would recommend printing on glass + hairspray, so the front part looks smooth and clean.
You can easily bolt them to the holes in front left top, and the ones in right side front top.
It should be printed with the front face on build plate. No supports needed.

You'll need:
The switch itself
1x M3x30mm bolt
2x M3x12mm bolts
2x M3 nuts
1x 5x20mm 250V 3A Breaker, Fast Blow if possible. (3A ONLY FOR 220V)
Some L, N and E wires for the AC part. (COLOUR CODE DEPENDS ON YOUR COUNTRY)
Faston terminal connectors.
Soldering iron and flux (optional)

It works for 3 Pin IEC320 C14 Rocker Switch Socket, like the one in the link below:

I haven't tested it for 110V, so input from any place in North/Central/South America would be most welcome. As long as the PSU is set for 110V and the switch works for 110V and is prepared to deal with a higher current, it should work. Ask your electric stuff supplier just in case.

BobPantz made this remix for Multicomp JR-101-1-FRSG-03 Rocker Switch Socket (UK)

If you make one feel free to hit "I made one" button. Feel free to give feedback :D

Some switchs out there have three terminals, while some others have four. For that reason, I won't provide any wiring diagram. The wiring info should be provided by the manufacturer in the datasheet. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Of course, this mod demands some AC wiring. This step can be dangerous and could cause major injuries or even death, as well as a fire or damage to your printer or any other part of your home.
Do it at your own risk.
Safety measures must be taken.
Never work on the wiring with the printer plugged.
Check the datasheet of the manufacturer before doing the wiring.
Check the wiring with a tester before switching on.

Print Settings


Anet A8






200 microns


15 to 20%

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Took a while to print but worth it in the end. The switch I got had four poles for the switch (instead of 3), I found some Youtube videos on how to wire it up. Put some good spade connectors on, and siliconed them into place.

I added supports in with Meshmixer, unfortunately I forgot to take the supports out of the screw holes so they were a mess. Although the bolt holes on the right side were handy, the nuts kept slipping out while screwing in the bolts and so was a pain. I would recommend using self-tapping screws to hold it into place.

Only other suggestion I would make is to make a hole in one side for the right side Z-motor cable, on mine I drilled an 8mm hole which was enough.

Thank you!

What are the dimensions of your PSU? I want to make sure it will fit my PSU. Thanks.

Hi my friend! I want to print this model, just I have a doubt, the PSU need to receive the 110v or 220v for the connector, but then, there is ( usually ) four wires that came from the PSU to the Arduino board, where can I route this four wires? thanks in advance!

Hi, just checked mine and it only has two (DC) wires (a red one and a black one) sticking out from the PSU. They deliver current to the mainboard (I keep the stock one, not Arduino+RAMPS. Besides, there are, of course, L, N and E wires for AC, where you wire the switch.
There's a hole in the stock frame right behind bottom-right corner of the PSU. So I put the wire through that hole, then all the way across the printer and beneath the M8 threaded rods, and then through an equal hole in the piece where mainboard is bolted. Then of course, to the mainboard terminals.