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Fidget Spinner - One-Piece-Print / No Bearings Required!

by muzz64, published

Fidget Spinner - One-Piece-Print / No Bearings Required! by muzz64 Apr 16, 2017

Summary

Fidget Spinners are a popular toy all around the world... this design provides the same ability to 'fidget' as any other 'Fidget spinner' however it is a one-piece-print with no metal bearings required. It should be almost ready to spin straight off the build plate!

The design features four designed in bearings. With a well sliced file printed on an accurate / precise machine the bearings should be free or take very little effort to break free straight off the build plate. As soon as the bearings have been freed add a small amount of lubricant to the moving bearing surfaces (refer images) and you're in business... ready to give your 'Fidget Spinner' a good spin. Is it as good as a spinner with metal bearings... probably not but they should still spin very well and are definitely fun to fidget with!

You can spin your Fidget Spinner in several ways... a smooth running spinner can be spun in just one hand by holding it in the centre then flicking one of the arms from the top or bottom... or you can get a faster spin by hitting one of the arms with a finger on you other hand. As there are four bearings designed in you can also hold one of the outer bearings and flick the spinner around using them instead of the centre bearing (refer images)

TIP: Once all four bearings have been freed apply a good spray of silicon spray or other light lubricant into the grooves between the main body and bearing on both sides of the spinner. Silicone is an amazing lubricant and a simple way to make 3D printed surfaces move really well against each other.

WARNING: To achieve a great result printing this design you need a good slicing app and accurate / precise machine due to the fine clearances applied. Although the clearances used should work satisfactorily with most slicing apps and machines others may find it a challenge and fuse the parts together. Usually fused parts can be freed however the alternative is to uniformly scale the design up by 5% which will increase the internal clearances.

'LOOSE' Version: A 'loose' file version has been added for members who have issues with printing fine clearances. This increases the clearance by approx. 0.1mm. On accurate / precise machines this will be too loose and the bearings will not run as smoothly as they do with the standard clearances. However, the 'loose' version should allow people with less accurate / precise machine and slicing apps to still get a good result.

'CENTRE' Version: This version is the same as the standard version but has just a single centre bearing. The other three bearings have been removed and the areas they occupied are simple closed surfaces. However, internal cutaways have been added to build shells in these outer areas which may help add a bit of weight to help it spin better.

'FLAT' Version: These two files were added in addition to the above due to member requests for versions that but not have recesses in the centre of the bearings. In these versions (one with four bearings and one with just a centre bearing) the bearings are flat so no recesses to hold with your fingers. There is no other difference.

This is an easy print of a fun gadget but does require an accurate / precise slicing app and machine to achieve the necessary clearance between the moving parts so it will spin well and freely. Applying the lubricant is also essential to getting a really good spin and being able to spin it with just one hand (Metal bearings require lubrication too so this just requires the same).

Retaining the standard scale is recommended to maintain the designed in clearances and also ensure sufficient space between your thumb and forefinger for it to spin. However, you can get creative with colours by pausing your machine multiple times mid-print and changing filament... print in your favourite color or color combination to make your own unique 'Fidget Spinner'.

Everyone needs their own 'Fidget Spinner' and they make great gifts as well... and with this design you don't need to buy any expensive metal bearings to achieve a similar result. Will a spinner with metal bearings spin better or longer... probably due to the added weight but this does a pretty good job at much lower cost and it's entirely 3D printed!

Have fun... and please post images of your 'Fidget spinners in use for other members to see.

Please refer to the print settings / instructions and images for additional information. Higher than usual shells and infill is recommended as this adds weight which will help your spinner maintain momentum.

Note: If you like this check out the rest of my fun and practical designs.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

MakerBot

Printer:

MakerBot Replicator+

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

No

Resolution:

Standard / 0.20mm

Infill:

PLA / 3 shells / 50% of more... to add weight


Notes:

Use greater than normal shells and infill to add weight which will help maintain momentum and keep your Fidget Spinner spinning.

WARNING: To achieve a great result printing this design you need a good slicing app and accurate / precise machine due to the fine clearances applied. Although the clearances used should work satisfactorily with most slicing apps and machines others may find it a challenge and fuse the parts together. Usually fused parts can be freed however the alternative is to uniformly scale the design up by 5% which will increase the internal clearances.

'LOOSE' Version: A 'loose' file version has been added for members who have issues with printing fine clearances. This increases the clearance by approx. 0.1mm. On accurate / precise machines this will be too loose and the bearings will not run as smoothly as they do with the standard clearances. However, the 'loose' version should allow people with less accurate / precise machine and slicing apps to still get a good result.

Post-Printing

Clean up, spray with silicone lubricant then give it a spin...

This 'Fidget Spinner' will print well when printed from a well sliced file on an accurate / precise machine. The printed-in bearings will need to be broken free by wriggling them or, if necessary adding a fraction more force (...but being as gentle as possible) with a craft knife to clear away any visible excess filament. With a good slicing app and well set up machine the bearings should be able to be broken free by hand (i.e. no tools required).

Once all four bearings have been freed apply a good spray of silicon spray lubricant into the grooves between the main body and bearing on both sides of the spinner. Silicone is an amazing lubricant and a simple way to make 3D printed surfaces move really well against each other.

This has been test printed numerous times to ensure the expected function can be easily achieved with minimal effort... and you don't need to buy any metal bearings!

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I love this! I just made it with a MaketBot Replicator+ and it came out epic!! To be honest I didn't think it was going to work but it did!!

Such a great design! I am a newby and have a question.
I print it out on my Mini Monoprice 3 printer with a base underneath and now I can NOT detach my base layer from the spinner.
I know it is not related to this particular model, (now I print everything without the base layer) but any idea how to save this? I could not find anything online...

This is my first model printed and I want to save it. :)
Also what is the best place to learn 3d modeling?

Thank you for your help!

Thanks for your message and I hope I can help....

By a base layer I assume you mean a 'raft'.... different makes use different terms. Assuming so see if you can increase the raft / base to model spacing in your slicing app. On my MakerBots 0.27mm works really well. It almost always snaps away by hand. However, not all slicing apps or machines work the same or are as accurate / precise as others.

Take a look at the MakerBot website under their 'learn' tab. That provides a good introduction. Also visit their support tab thengo into the 'learn' section there as well. That area has some very informative content that applies to 3D printing in general, not just MakerBot. However you will need to search within specific model listings to find it.

Finally. .. try using a craft knife to slice away the base from your print. Refer to the images I included on Thingiverse.

Many bugs inside last model

Not sure what you're referring to. .... please explain further

Slic3r find empty holes and flat bearing slice as default

Still not quite sure what the issue is... however I checked all the .stl's and there are no issues according to my mesh checker. These have been printed by thousands of people and the vast majority get a great result...

Having said that, if anyone has an issue with this type of thing, they all too often use Slic3r. It is a slicing app problem as it doesn't seem to deal with the complexity of some designs as well as other apps. Cura seems better and I never have issues with my MakerBot Print.

Just made one in red ABS on my original, modded, Replicator Dual. Sliced on Simplify3D. It printed out great! Came off my glass plate easily with no raft, and spun right away. Tried some WD-40 and then some 3 in 1, which got me from about a 5 second spin to about a 10 second spin. Thanks for uploading the design!

Jul 3, 2017 - Modified Jul 3, 2017

Awesome - this turned out great!

Printer: MP Mini Select
Using Cura 2.6.1, some settings
hatchbox pla, 200 degrees
Build speed: 40
Layer height: 0.0875

Spins freely, i'm really surprised!

The Fidget Spinner Centre works even after scaling down quite a bit. My finished spinner is 4.5cm across. I was really surprised it still worked. Great job!

well I wasted my time and money! can not get bearings unstuck!

As noted in the instructions not all machines print as finely / precisely as others. This is why a 'loose' version file is provided... plenty of people have printed these with success and great feedback but ensuring your machine is well set up is important. Printing in the middle of the build plate, level build plate, effective filament fan all count... but, as per the comments and images, they work fine for lots of people so hopefully you can achieve the same.

All the best

Hello muzz64 I am sorry for the comment above. My little brother came unglued and wrote that. The bearings finally came undone when I used a razor blade knife and works great! Thank you for the print and I am vary sorry

No problem. ... I assume he wouldn't have read the instructions which covers how to free mildly fused prints. Pleased to hear it's all okay now. ... have fun with it!

I recommend using a flat head screwdriver and pushing in the gaps between the center bearing on both sides to make it spin a little bit better. I did it myself and made it spin longer.

Could you make a version where the bearing caps are flat. When I printed it, the bottom didn't turn out well and it would take a couple of tries to print because the bearing on the bottom would fall off of the bed. Please also do this for the centre version, as I am using that version because it has less room for error.

Two additional .stl's have been added with these changes as requested... hopefully that works out well for you.

Another thing is that in the centre version there is some complex thing where the outer-bearings would have been. This greatly increases print time. Would it be possible to remove that?

That is in there for a reason and yes it will increase print time because it adds more outlines... just hidden inside. That adds weight which helps it spin... this is particularly valuable in the outer areas otherwise you would want to increase the infill (which would slow printing as well) but that would also add weight to the centre. Weight out wide is what you need and this was designed in to help with that.

Oh, I just usually print with 100% infill so that these will be very strong. What settings do you use to get it to spin for 15 seconds?

I've never had quite that long but not far off. .. however several people have reported 15 seconds plus once well lubricated (refer instructions )

Use 2 shells with 35% infill. Most people think more weight means a longer spin but where the weight is positioned also matters. It's also worth adding that too much weight being applied within this type of bearing increases friction / drag so there is a point where more weight works against what you are trying to achieve.

I hope this helps. ...

How long does it spin ?

There's lots of comments about this... just read through them...

I printed in ABS on a FF creator pro. Nice result. One of the peripheral bearings wouldn't go but the middle one works perfectly. Lubricated with spray oil.

Printed well in PLA.
Oil may be used to make it spin up to 15 seconds. I used Mobil 0W30 engine oil for my car, but any oil will do the job.

Can I print this with Cura 2.5 and a Anet A8 3d printer.

If you can print most other 3D files there's no reason why not... but sorry I don't use this software or machine to know for sure.

I printed this and it works pretty good. The only problem is that I currently only have ABS filament and two of the 3 ends came up. One cannot spin freely because of this

Jun 7, 2017 - Modified Jun 7, 2017

My machine is calibrated very well. I print all kinds of objects that have moving parts, even bearings. This one was a waste of time. It just doesn't spin long enough even after gluing pennies on all the outer circles on both sides. Looks cool though.

Sorry to hear you're having issues and this isn't working out well on your machine. However if you refer to all the feedback and pictures of great results you will see 99% are positive and there is a significant number of them. That should be enough to provide an idea of where the problems are...

tronxy x1 printed the one with only bearing in center and it was printed in 100% size, not the loose version. still too loose nontheless...

You can uniformly scale it down to reduce the clearances if you have a well set up machine. .. . but don't go too much smaller or it will fuse and never spin at all.

I have a question:
what is the difference between the fidgetspinner.stl and the fidget-_loose.stl

This is explained in the instructions provided however the difference is slightly greater internal clearances between the parts. This was provided as not all slicing apps and machines print the same so, for members with machines that aren't as precise / accurate than others, the loose version should ensure the parts don't fuse during printing... so it will spin as expected.

I hope this explains what you need...

This is a great design, prints fast and works great. I printed 4 of these for my kid's sleep over friends and they were are thrilled.
After the initial loosening and adding a little lubricant they spin just fine.
Thanks, keep your designs coming as some of us are still in diapers when it comes to 3D creation.

Thanks for your comment... pleased you like them!

How much money did it take you to make one?

Thanks.your probably right.may be a double will work.

probably wasnt clear on the last one.i tried to make three sinners at one time.i tried three times and it crashed all three.

this is not a derogatory letter.just a question.i went to duplicate(3) of these and it crashed on three attemps.BUT,worked fine on a single.just wondering...lol

That strongly suggests a memory issue . Another possibility is processing speed. ... it may handle one fine but three is simply too much to process.

does this need any support???

No... refer to the print settings. With PLA and a filament fan it doesn't require any supports.

Have fun with it!

Dear Muzz64, can I sell this fidget spinner? If I can is there anything you want me to do?

My licence terms are non-commercial but what numbers are you expecting to sell?

Only something like ten

This was the first print I made with my new printer, took a couple of times to get it to stick to the bed at the beginning, the when it stuck turned out great.

Am I the only one who isn't a fan of the bottom side having the finger dents? The bridged plastic doesn't feel good when I'm holding it.

Jun 7, 2017 - Modified Jun 7, 2017
Bobstheman - in reply to victoriaRobox

A real bearing spinner is the only way to go.

Nobody said this is as good as using a metal bearing but for a 3D print they work surprisingly well.

You should make on of these but so that you can put hex nuts in the arms. This will allow us to get more weight in the arm an it should spin quite a lot longer! Great design :)

Thanks for your comment... I actually have a coin weighted fidget spinner posted as well at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2323309. This allows you to vary the weight to suit... and as surprising as it may sound 'the more weight the better' is not necessarily the case... particularly when you have a plastic bearing. Getting the 'right weight' is the key to speed and duration. Too much weight causes drag within the bearing... this design lets you experiment.

Have fun with it!

Adjustable Coin Weighted Fidget Spinner
by muzz64

These plastic bearings work really great, better than my cheap bearings! great design !

How much money did it take you to make one?

The cost to print one depends on the print settings applied and your filament cost... but it will use approx. 30gm of filament. You can easily calculate that based on your cost per spool of XXX grams.

Thanks!

Very good. Printed and was amazed by how well it spun. Are the internal channels and tubes to build up build shells for weight or to hold lubricant or some air cushion effect? Just curious. I am trying to become a better designer, please share your thoughts.

Thanks!

Thanks for your message... yes adding the channels makes it build shells which adds weight, albeit not a great deal. However, with a plastic bearing you don't want too much weight either as that slows it... all the best.

best thing everrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks. ... appreciate your comment!

Comments deleted.

horrible model, seals its shut and does nothing, thanks for wasting my time

Please refer to the thousands of other members who have had great results... spinning freely, no issues. On this basis I have to believe the issue is to do with your slicing app and/or machine. Not all machines print the same....

May 22, 2017 - Modified May 22, 2017

The point of the outside bearings is weight. most spinners use the cheapest possible for those. there is no point printing bearings there since they're not used as bearings to spin anyway. throwing in a marble or actual larger ball bearing would be better along with the printed center bearing.

Understand all these points which is why I've posted a number of versions including two with no outer bearings and another that allows you to insert coins as weights which can be swapped in/out to achieve the best spin... with a printed plastic bearing too much weight reduces the speed and duration. Check out my other designs... this provides a range to choose from.

May 20, 2017 - Modified May 20, 2017

Will this work for the new matter mod-t?

I am going to try printing it today. I'll respond again once I have my results.

I have no experience with that machine and don't know what slicing app you are using however, as long as it prints accurately and the slicing is done precisely it should be fine. Thousands of other members have printed this on all sorts of machines and they are reported to work well...

Hey, great design, great idea! Have you thought of making a file of just the bearing? Something where the two pieces would snap together and left room for the fidget to spin? (Obviously) Something similar to a comment that I read earlier, allowing for the hollow bearings to be weighted?

Thanks for your comment... due to a number of requests I've just posted a variable coin weighted spinner. There's lots of ways you could make this sort of thing but making sure they are song enough and will print reliably on almost anyone's machine is important but does limit what you can design and post. Anyway, this all new version allows you to adjust /experiment with weighting.

All the best

remixed and want to share, any reason why you are not permitting derivatives?

Yes.... from (a lot) of past experience this can cause issues when files no longer print well for people due to the remix. I test print all of my designs to ensure they will print well for most people and try and assist those who do have problems.

If it's my work, for all that it's unpaid I'm happy to do this, but when I used to allow derivatives people came after me for support because I was the originator of the design... plus it can negatively affect my status here.

Sorry but this is in the interests of self preservation

bearing only + different spinner : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2332797
designed by muzz64

Bearing + spinner - REMIX of muzz64 spiner
by Gophy

Would be great if you could extrude out the center bearing section into a 22mm diameter 608 bearing press fit...use you bearing on anyone else spinner design.
I've been trying to get your design in tinkercad to do this myself but for some reason won't load in?
Also want to remix this to take pennies to achieve a low cost spinner that works great. No bearing required and pennies add weight which are cheaper than nuts. And cheaper than the cost volume of filament at a 50% infill and triple wall for the weight.
Hopefully I'll figure it out.

...I already have developed something that will hopeful provide what you're after. Not quite what you've described but similar end result. Will be posted within the next few days!

Fun. Can't wait to see more of your designs...

so we printed this just to see how it would come out... this thing prints the actual bearings inside of the spinner! they are plastic and not heavy but super cool feature. if your printer isnt extra precise or your new to this as we are...at first it looks like everything is stuck together when we printed on normal.. when we printed on excellent it was alot more easier to free up the bearings.. inside there it is soo cool.. TRY THIS NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for your comment. .. pleased you like it!

can you post the ones you made before this design. it would be nice to have varity.

I trashed the files but will look at re-making them when time permits.

What type of filament? looks good!

All made with PLA... plus added silicone pray or another lightweight lubricant to the surfaces than run against each other.

Can this be scaled down at all and still work well? If so, any idea on how much it can be scaled and still work? I have two printers and the only one working at the moment is the Zortrax. It prints 30-50% slower than most printers and it's telling me this will be a 4 hour print. Kinda sucks BUT the prints I get from it are amazing so I guess waiting longer isn't that bad, but still.

Great work! Love all your models.

Unfortunately I can't say what will work for your machine however I try and make my designs "safe ' to print on most machines. You can try printing the loose version uniformly scaled down by 20%... that may cut an hour out of the print time. .. but the risk is that it is fused so will never spin and you're back to doing a 4hr print to get a good result. It's also worth mentioning that the size adds weight and helps it spin.

I hope this helps

They should post their other prototypes cuz they looked cool and I wanna print them.

I will post more spinners in due course....

Also you should make those bearings available to print by them selves.

Printed at low resolution (as I was short on time). Needless to say I was pleasantly surprised with how well it spun with a little wearing in. Printing one at a higher resolution as I type this.

What "higher resolution" settings are you using?

No higher resolution... just 0.20mm as per the instructions provided. However some members have used 0.10mm.

Printed this last night and it's perfect. All bearings spin easy and didn't require any freeing when the printer is calibrated correctly. It also seems very child friendly. Thanks for sharing it!

How do I free the bearings? For context, my printer isn't very precise and I'm using the 'loose' model.

If they have fused you will just need to spend time trying to wiggle them or use a craft knife gently as per the images provided. This is exactly why I posted a 'loose' version... another thing that may help, but you need to be careful with this, is to work out the areas that are sticking and pour near boiling water onto that area then quickly try to wiggle / rotate it. The heat will soften the plastic a fraction and that can help it break free.

If all else fails scale it up by 5 - 10% and reprint it. That will increase the internal clearances to make it easier to free up.

I hope this helps...

WIggling them and using a knife failed, and I was already using the loose version. The boiling water worked in combination with a letter opener though! Thanks!

By the way, I love all your designs. I've made this spinner, Crocz, Sharkz, and the Willpower Battery so far.

Thanks for your message... pleased to hear you freed it up okay. And thanks for your support of my other designs.

My friend printed me one using the third file, and he used WD-40 to lubricate it and it works great! Clever design!

I printed one of these last night. Didn't have to free the bearings at all. They actually feel loose with more play than I expected. Great design either way.

You should definitely add spaces for pennies or some kind of weights. Otherwise, it's perfect!

I'll have a think about this as spinners are so popular at present

I love the design. Bizarrely I've only been able to get one of the bearings free so far but it spins really well, annoyingly it isn't the middle one! Bashing them with a hammer doesn't appear to work. I don't have a craft knife or a narrow screw driver so I may be arguing with them for a while, I suspect they aren't going to come loose :(

Sorry to hear you're having issues. ... this all comes down to your machine and/or slicing apps accuracy. . As it sounds like your machine is not able to deal with the fine clearances try uniformly scaling it up about 5% as that will increase the internal clearances. I hope this helps.

Update: I still had to gently bash them with a hammer to loosen them on the 5% upscale but they did all come loose and they do all spin. Just as soon as I can remember where I put the WD40 it should work a charm!

Oh good idea, I'll give that a go! Thanks for the advice :)

May 9, 2017 - Modified May 9, 2017

Hey can I also use WD-40 and what happens if I hydro dip it

love this! it works well for not having a real bearing. it could just use some weights though...

How did u design inner bearings I will message u my email so PLZ REPLY

I would like to know how you designed the internal bearings i am planning on making some cool designs, but I don't know how to design the bearings. PLS write me back

Message me your email address and I'll give you a quick explanation

Can u tell me too I'll message u my email

hi, i want to make a remix but you licence wont allow this, why :(

You can remix it for your own use... no objection to that. However, when people post derivatives sometimes they have issues and members have a habit of going back to the originator for support. I test print everything I post multiple times but, while they work well for most people, there's still always the odd few that have issues. I do the best I can to help them get a solution, and the issues are slicing app and/or machine related, but can't support files that have been altered from my own. As it is I get hundreds of emails a week from Thingiverse members requesting all sorts of things so try and minimise things that are beyond my control so I have time to respond to these requests.

Hopefully that explains it further... but remix it as you want for your own use.

how can i get a file for the prototypes

Unfortunately they've been trashed but which one/ones from those pictured?

its esea fun with out lube 2-3 seconds with lube 7-8 seconds will recommend.

Could you possibly include a version with no bearings on the outside?

A single bearing version has been added... it hasn't been test printed but should be fine. Please refer to the notes added about the 'Centre' version.

Have fun!

This is really cool! What silicone lubricant did you use and what brand/type do you recommend?

Plus your design is amazing!

Thanks!

Any 'silicone' lubricant should work fine. As I live in New Zealand I doubt the brand I use will be available elsewhere in the world but silicone is silicone everywhere. Any light lubricant (i.e. not sticky and that will run into the surfaces running against each other will do. Some people have even used WD40 and said it worked well.... but I'm sure silicone will be better).

I hope this helps.

Comments deleted.

Printed of great with no issues I didn't even need to apply any sort of force the the bearing parts it span straight from the print bed added a bit of silicon oil after which helps it spin a little better but well impressed with it.

Thanks and great job!

Printed on Anycubic Kossel delta 0.2 layer height, 60% infil.

Apr 27, 2017 - Modified Apr 27, 2017

How lo g would it spin if i put it at 100% infill?

Adding weight will help no different to spinners with metal roller bearings. .. but in this case the difference will not be great. The single most important thing is to apply a good silicone lubricant to all surfaces that run against each other.

What size nozzle, layer height and layer width are recommended?

0.40mm nozzle... 0.20mm layers... 2 shells and high infill should be all you need to worry about.

Nice Model!!! Looks awesome will certainly print when When I can.

How long does this spin for about?

That's the million dollar question... it depends on how well (smoothly) printed the internal surfaces are and if you have applied a coating of silicone lubricant to the surfaces that move against each other. However, 4 - 5 seconds is about right... but it also depends how hard you can spin it. As explained in the information provided this won't spin the same as with real bearings but that is partly due to weight keeping them spinning .... but this costs far less and is 3D printed.

LOL, my printer says it's costing me $0.74 in filament at 50% infill.
I should put some nuts in for weight and save the cost :)

This thing is so cool. how did you do it?

Thanks for your comment. .. it's all aboutl coming up with ideas then thinking through how to make them in a 3D printable way. .. then it just takes time. There's no substitute for experience. .. and you also need to be like a dog with a bone as there's always some trial and error involved.

All the best

you should try to make other designs as well like shuriken or triforce symbol

I've got a triforce spinner that I designed and printed... I'll have to share it later...

Printed perfectly with the loose model on a NewMatter Mod-T for me. Really great design, thanks for sharing it!

I LOVE IT!!! i see these on amazon a lot but they cost like $20 so like no way... but this is way better. can you blow on it to make it spin? also, a suggestion: put slots in for bearings for those who have them. A+!

If your print is clean / smooth and you apply the silicone lubricant as recommended yes they (mine) will spin by blowing them.... but I can't comments for other peoples prints on other machines. The problem I saw with bearings is cost as you are aware and also getting the sizes exactly right to hold them in tight otherwise you would be messing around with glue etc. This does the job well as it is...

Love your great designs and as well your well prepared "manuals" with great hints for printing. This spinner is design no 199. I'm very curious what no 200 will be! Keep up your awesome work.

Thanks... number 200 is currently work in progress and in between moving house... but I'm sure I'll get there!

on mine the bearings keep curling up any way to not have this happen

how long did it take to print this fidget spinner

Every slicing app and machine will be a bit different. On my Replicator 2 it was just under 2 hours... on my 5th Gen Replicator a bit over two hours (same print settings applied). Different slicing apps run machines at different speeds...

I hope this provides an adequate guide.

Just got one of these cooking on my Taz 5 in glow in the dark PLA. Starting with the loose version, with a normal one to follow. Will post results!

how long does it take to make one?

Apr 17, 2017 - Modified Apr 17, 2017

Printed one in ABS and it works great. One idea I had was to create some insterts for where you place your fingers that could be printed in a different color. I tried to import the STL into sketchup but it couldn't handle it. Was going to make the divot a little deeper so when you glue the insert in it would be the same depth as it is now.

Thanks for your suggestion... from a functional point of view it's not really necessary so I assume this is all about adding colour and not by layer as per the color version images provided. If that is the case it would need to be set up as two files and printed on a dual extruder machine... however in that case the bearings could be one colour and the body another. That would be the easiest way to add color. Open to revisions and emailing them to you if you can explain further via a message.

Hi yes this would be strictly for adding color. It would not improve functionality. I don't have a dual extruder setup so was just thinking about creating small disk inserts that you could print in different colors then glue to the area where you place your fingers. This would add a little pop of color. Great design by the way. My kids love theirs.

Thanks... pleased to hear your kids like them. The easiest and safest way to add color as explained on Thingiverse in my text and photos.. give it a go.

All the best

Printed one, and it came out great.

For those having trouble, the trick to separating the parts is to print at the lowest temperature you can (190 for me, using PLA), then use a small slot-head screwdriver, pressed into the circles around each 'bearing' while angled down and tilted towards the center of each 'bearing' at a 45 degree angle, and to push in less than half way. Do that a few times around, on both sides, and the parts (for me) popped loose pretty easily. Then lube with DW40, and the 'bearings' spin surprisingly well!

Trying to separate by hand, or using a knife blade, didn't work as well - it cut into the plastic instead of pressing the parts apart.

what spin times you getting?

Some people have reported 6 -7 seconds. To achieve this you need a really clean print with smooth internal surfaces plus some silicone lubricant. That helps a lot. ...

Made one yesterday and it spins for about 13 seconds before a complete stop. With a tiny bit of silicone spray!

Thanks for sharing the additional suggestions to free the bearings... I'm keen for everyone who prints this to get a great result that they are happy with.

What is the "loose" model?

This is explained in the text.... a few people have had problems freeing the printed in bearings so the 'loose' version increases the internal clearances to make it work for them. However, if it is too loose you end up with a spinner that rattles... the regular version is best if you can get it to work. Most printers should be okay with this version.

Thanks for the explanation!

I forsee another feature for you

Let's hope so!

Great spinner. The silicone lube helps a lot.

Great Design, unfortunately what I thought was a well set up printer is not up to the task.
what can I do to make for more Clarence ?

A 'loose' version has been added to deal with this... hopefully enough additional clearance has been added. The fact is you don't want to make them too loose otherwise they won't spin smoothly...

Thank you again for another well documented design. Appreciate that you created a fidget spinner that is print in place! Thank you!

Thanks for your comment... as this seems to be the latest craze but most of what is posted on Thingiverse needs bearings (which cost money and need to be the right size to fit/work well) so I decided some people would appreciate this alternative. Hopefully they print well for everyone as the clearances aren't great which may challenge some machines... but mine work great so hopefully most others do as well.

I can't wait to try and this one tomorrow. I really admire your designs. You really think outside the regular box of thought. Your designs have helped teach me what is possible from a single print. I sell premade fidget spinners at my store but have also tried printing many 3d printed ones for my own personal collection. I saw and printed another fully printable fidget by someone else where it has printable bearings, and it completely exceeded my expectations of how it would spin. Can't wait to print your design and give it a shot. Will definitely let you know how it turns out.

Thanks for your feedback... I hope you like it when your spinner is printed.

All the best!

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