I am looking to build a custom 500 x 500 x 500 dual Z hypercube evo I am currently making a BOM for it. I am stuck up alittle on how to choose a bed bracket. Can someone explain/recommend me a bed bracket that will work with my printer?
Thanks.

Hello and first of all let me say thank you for all the time that has gone into this. I have a question about the excel file. when I was doing the config for dual Z. I noticed the parts list has it marked for 2 pieces for all Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket. Do I only need 2 each of the "Double" version though?? Since I'm using a Dual Z setup? Also the Z_Nut_Bracket_T10_Nut. What is that model for? Sorry if that has been asked before.

Thanks in advance.
Curtis

Thoughts on the prospects of mounting a small spindle, or mini router to the X carriage for some basic CNC engraving or light milling?

Hi, I'm looking for an idea for the construction of a PickAndPlace home machine. In machines such head moving speeds are about 10x larger than typical 3D printers. Therefore it is very important that the displaced mass (head and X axis) is as small as possible. That's why I'm interested in a construction like HyperCube. And here is my question: what is the maximum speed of the head movement I can get with such a project without losing accuracy and shortening the service life? Of course I will not print 3D.

Suggested minor improvement to the Y-carriage.

Although it looks neat and tidy, the two stands of timing belt between the motor and the Y-carriage do not need to be parallel for XY-core to work correctly. This means it is possible to move the non-toothed idler pulley in the direction of the Y-rail. Since the position of the non-toothed idler pulley determines the x-size of the Y-carriage, making this move reduces the x-size of the Y-carriage and so increases the X print size.

Suggested improvement:

1. Remove the piece of plastic between the non-toothed idler pulley and the belt hole.
2. Move the axel hole for the non-toothed pulley towards the Y-rail. I think a movement of 8mm should be possible.
3. Reduce x-dimension of carriage by the same amount that the pulley was moved.

This reduction gives a useful addition of 16mm to the X print size.

Hi, it really a nice project!
But I wasn't recommended to put belt's strain on the X slider directly in long term, it will break someday.
I find a way to solve this problem, and it is really easy to adjust tightness.
https://imgur.com/a/op22F

Hi,

Thank you for the files. But..... where is the spreadsheet file ?

Dear SCOTT_3D there is a big issue with stl in 10mm size the hole are 10,4mm big this is a lot to much for a correct calibrated printer ...
rods are not fixed even with screw screwed to max.... all my print to waste :-(

for example : XY_Idler_Mount_1.1.stl
XY_Stepper_Mount_1.1.stl....

Is there a Remix of the X-Carriage for 10mm Rods? I havent found one :/

I need to get better at assemblies.in Inventor

Hi, nice work! I wonder if you could add an x-carriage for my preferred sintered bronze bearings. Those are available for diameter 8 rods in different dimensions. The outer diameters are either 10/11/12 or 14.

Could you upload a modified version for one of these outer diameters? 12 would be fine for me.

Thanks a lot in advance, greetings from Germany

Yes, how do I get the spreadsheet file?

Randy

Hi,

Could somebody post, how to wire endstops and how to configure them ?
I´m using for X and Y optical and for Z axis NPN inductive proximity sensor.
And at least - Repetier FW

Thanks
Best regards and happy printing !

Lukas

I missing a calculation for the rods at the Steppers in the excel sheet
i wanna build a Hypercube with Build vol 300x300x500 but i dont know how long these rods should be

Why are the holes in the Y Carriage for the LM10UU 8mm size, 8.4mm dia? They are way to big when printed. Can't clamp the 8mm rods in the plastic parts. Do you have some files that I can modify? Can change the stl files. step files could work.

Hello, file for LM10UU X Carriage please?

Why doesn't the hole in the double z left and right bracket go all the way through? You can't bolt it to the extrusion it the hole doesn't go through. Maybe you did this for a reason?

Where's the LM10UU X carriage?

hi there, I have wanted to use this design for my first corexy printer but any way to make the x and y gantry for lm12uu as well? I had built the old mega prusa i3 before and have all 12mm rods that can be used on this. I will keep looking in case I missed a remix or such thanks.

Hi guys, any motor mount/ idler mount for 4040 profile?

Apologies if this has been asked before. This looks like a great upgrade. I don't yet have a 3D printer so looking for a good base printer to start with. I see the Anet A8 mentioned often below. Is this upgrade mainly for the A8 or does this also work with other other printers. Any recommendations for a beginner? I'm pretty good at building stuff so constructing from a kit should be fine.

off question, what is that filament in some of the shots? the green/yellowish neon looking one?

Thanks!

can i use TMC2100 in this ?

What is the outer frame size of this Printer?

Is there any list of which parts is needed and what amount of the part for a full set of parts for the printer?

I actually printed 2020 at first, got fed up with it, and then just ordered 3030. I threaded 100mm long 1mm thick single walled printed 2020 onto 5/16inch threaded rods. Everything was going fine until I decided to bring the entire batch of printed 2020 to 100°C in the oven to add a bit of ease threading in the 5/16inch threaded rods. I watched a video that said you lose a bit on the Z axis doing this baking without mention of warping. This baking warped the printed 2020 - I should have known better and tested a single piece first. Perhaps it was the single walled nature of my specific parts that induced this warping. I still finished assembling a 400mm x 400mm frame with the printed 2020 which "seems" fairly rigid yet I believe only Salvador Dali would use it as a 3D printer... My experience/exposure is assembling a single DIY 3D printer kit and have no example of what acceptable rigidity is - thus I just went ahead and ordered the 3030. I may add some thoughts on this when I've learned more. For me, the time and cost of printing the 2020 was not worth attempting to circumvent the aluminum 3030. At the very least, it gave me some experience to share. The individual 100mm PLA printed 2020 extrusion is exremely tough and rigid by the way.

Hi Scott is they're any interest to use 12mm rods on z axis in the double z axis configuration instead of using 8mm ? I have plenty off 8mm bushing and rods so I would like to use it. I don't see any reason to use 12mm because there is not effort on the rod like in the single z axis version but may be I m wrong what do you thinks of that ? Many thanks

Just purchased all the parts needed for the printer. Will start printing out the remaining parts now. Can't wait to get started on building this!

Anyone experimented with print setting for the 3d parts? Also, any tips for achieving the best results?

i tried to enter a 500 x 500 bed in the excel config

so i enter 528 x 528 and 525 x 525, but no matter what bracket i select it says N/A under it

what am i doing wrong?

screenshot: http://imgur.com/a/JjCTU

Looking for a lead screw nut holder stl for this T10 anti backlash nut.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/T10-eliminate-clearance-nut-anti-backlash-nut-POM-nut-trapezoidal-screw-nut-pictch-2mm-lead-12mm/32748561230.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.RQWJBQ

have anyone the "Z_Nut_bracket" for this dimensions ?:
http://www.motedis.com/shop/images/product_images/popup_images/3402_2.jpg

I have only Linux and Autodesk don't work here
Freecad can't read .ipt files

can me help anyone ?

I really love this desgin! I ordered all Parts today and going to build i as soon as the Parts arrived.

I was lucky today is Banggood Sale so i got 11% discount on almost everything:

https://goo.gl/9W9CmA

Thank you so much for you Design!

all the aliexpress link is in russia? post cost 10$+ each item?

Hi Scott , first of all -very nice work ! Hope to build this model :) One request - unfortunately I'm using older version of Inventor ( like many others) and I can't open your assembly . It may be great if you will add .STEP file so others can open and use your 3D model ( not only Inventor users, but other CAD systems also )
Anyway , great job , nice done !

Which Types of Extrusions you use ?

there are so many types ,
i figured out it could be 30x30 8 Type B but not 100% sure
but what about the 20x20 ?!?!?!
are those 20x20 6 Type B ?

Could you please Edit your BOM with those infos

Quick suggestion/question, on the y axis rod clamps in the xy mounts why is the threaded nut on the outside instead of the inside so it cant be tightened after the pulleys and motor are installed? If the nut was installed on the inside and the recess for the cap head was on the outside it would simplify assembly. Looking forward to building this once I get my extrusions in.

I am thinking that I would like to make this printer, but use a Plywood cube for the frame. I would like to put the motors on the outside of the cube so I can heat the chamber and not destroy the motors. do you think this would be possible. I would mount the z axis motor below the cube with the lead screw poking thru the ply wood cube.

Your thoughts would be appreciated...

Hello All, sorry if this question looks stupid, but the 3d printable files have versions. which version should i use? v1.1 or 1.0 or the latest available version ? am using Lin's bom with a standard 300x300 config.

Hello Scott, great design you picked for improving. Indeed, this is one of the best coreXY belt arrangement I've seen. I'm quite amazed by the attention to detail for every part you designed. Also, I can't emphasize how happy I am that you have uploaded the source cad files, It lets me do a virtual assembly before printing the parts and that it's priceless. Thank you very much!!!
One thing I've discovered, check the "Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket". Both versions, 1.0 and 1.1 seems to be missing a hole for the M5 screw.

Keep up the good work.
Martin

Hello. whats the name of that part that looks like a puley with a bolt connected to the stepper motors??? it isn't listed in the parts and it didnt came with my 3 stepper motors

Anyone else get the power supply linked in the description? I believe mine just blew up on me. No longer works, and when I shake it, some solid of thermal paste has been falling out.

The postman has dropped a few more parcels and I'm now building in earnest, but I have a question about controller electronics. I've been reading about CoreXY and 8 vs 32 bit controllers and etc. and I'm wondering how people have fared using 8 bit controllers, whether they've hit any quality or speed problems when starting to push the machine (and how fast they were going!).

EDIT: I'll be sticking with 1/16 microstepping, I'm fine with the noise and my 4 year old loves the "robot noises" :-)

If I'm going to go 32 bit, my current front runner is an Arduino Due + Smart RAMPS, running 32 bit Repetier. It's cheap, I like Repetier's no nonsense information-dense display and I'm used to the Repetier "way of doing things". Of course a DuetEthernet and PanelDue would be amazing, but it's verrrry expensive and I'm not totally sold that a touch screen is actually better than a rotary (i.e. tactile) encoder from a usability standpoint.

I've more or less discounted the MKS SBASE + TFT32 because the user interface is information-poor and looks poorly thought out.

Hi scott in your description you say that the 303030 size have some vibration bed issue.

did you mean with the only one Z axis support or 2 ??? i want to convert an prusa i3 To hypercube but i want a nice quality so should i chose a 303030 or 202030 machine size ? i will make the 2 z axis version in anycase. I would like to have a evolutive machine size so a 303030 sound good even i start with a 20*20 bed what do you think ? thanks

I'd like to build something similar to this machine but i'm hoping to use 2020 for all the extrusions as i already have a bunch sitting around. What would i have to do to the measurements to do this? Would i just add 20mm to each?

Hello,nice Printer.
Can you update it with normal Hex-Nuts for 8mm XY Rods?
I will make a compact Version with a Printer dimension of 340x340x440mm.
Or can i have the .step Files?

best regards

Any reason why you're not using the frame for linear motion? Could further reduce complexity using v-slot rails.

when i select the Z axis to be double somehow the 12 mm Diameter Shaft length decreases and when i select the Z axis to be single the shaft length increases.... in the Excel sheet.

cannot understand why does this happen??

Was assembling my excel sheet, pulley and belts link is dead for some reason...

Hi All,

Has anyone done a CoreXY style printer using 8020 series 15 yet? I am looking for the 3D parts to print using this standard.

Thank you!

How hard would it be to make this into a 400x400x400 Printer?

Hey everyone. Im seriously considering building this. But with a twist. I want to print the 3030 and 2020 extrusion. what do you guys think?

can i build it for the larger bed option but use the smaller one till i feel the need to just upgrade the bed in one go instead of building the entire new frame again?

Can you make the parts for 2020 profile please?

Has anyone figured out how to mount the optical end switch on the left side? The zero side??? There is no hole like there is on the right side for me to push the wires through.

Hi, With double Z and 200x200 print area it looks like 12mm rods for the Z axis is a bit excessive. This looks like an optimization made for single Z, are you considering publishing an option with smaller rods on Z axis?

Hey guys,

do you think it would be possible to use this type of graphite bushings in X and Y instead of LM8(L)UU?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/8mmx15mm-x45mm-linear-graphite-copper-set-bearing-copper-alloy-bushing-oil-self-lubricating-bearing-JDB-8x15x45/32775983766.html

Is there a Remix or a Way to use 2 E3DV6 on the Hypercube?
I want to build me a second Printer, but i need 2 Extruder.

Hi Guys,

It's getting really hard to find 3030 extrusion where I live... Did any body remixed this for 2020 extrusion instead?

I'm trying to edit the parts in Fusion 360, but I'm realizing I'm no such a great 3D designer =).

Thanks!

I, like many others, are very impressed with this design and it ticks many of the boxes for my next build. I, like many others, can't help but my own stamp on the design. I have a couple of printers with dual Z-axis steppers and I have always wondered how I will know if they get out of sync due to lost steps. Of course, if it gets too bad, the Z axis will bind but a few lost steps could go unnoticed. So, before I order the parts for my Evo, I'm considering using a dual Z axis design with a single stepper motor and a 6mm GT2 belt between drive pulleys on the two acme leadscrews to synchronize them. I don't know that this is really necessary, but I also tell myself it can't hurt. In order to pull this off, I'll need a GT2 closed loop belt which comes in fixed lengths. Can anyone with an assembled Evo tell me what the center to center dimension is between the leadscrews on a dual Z configuration?

Hello there and congrats for the excellent design.
I am planning to build (already ordered most parts) a 300x300x300 HCEVO using (most of) the mechanical and electronics parts of my ANET A8. The question is:
Can the mainboard of the ANET A8 (running Marlin or actually Skynet3D) be used in the HCEVO?
I see that the way the X and Y moves are realised is quite different, so is it just a setting change in Marlin? If not, can the repetier firmware be loaded on the ANET mainboard?
Thanks in advance...

Would there be any advantage to mounting any of the motors and related parts outside of the frame perimeter? Adjusting the frame perimeter so the build platform fits inside, but no much else. Just a thought.

Feel free to join: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/
New FB group for people who don't like bossy administrator ;-)

Hey guys,
Maybe i missed this BUT are there mods to use NEMA23 motors? i want to go 300x300x500(H)

As far as the electronics go can the entire build be completed with just soldering, or is crimping also necessary?

I´m building this awesome printer and I have question. Why are there on extruder carriage 2 optical endstops and it is possible to give there only 1 ?

Thanks

I'm about to start building my Hypercube Evolution soon, and using the excellent Autodesk 360 online model as a basis for figuring things out:

https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761edd5edf41a5b4aa05?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfEAF0gA

One thing I've noticed on this is that it has an arrangement where the part cooler duct is mounted behind the X-carriage, rather than sandwiched between the X-carriage and hotend assembly. Does anyone know where to find this part cooler duct (and the adapter)? The only thing I can glean from the model is that the name of the duct is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_1.0, and that its mounting bracket is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_MOUNT_1.1. (Presumably it's for an E3D Titan Aero extruder, but it looks like it's generic enough to fit many of the hotend mounts floating around.) I've searched high and low on Thingiverse to no avail..

Anyone already made a remix for 3-point leveling?

Is there something like an assembly guide or so? This would be my first CoreXY style printer

Since our international Facebook group is doing well and growing, we decided to create a group for the german speaking group of people.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/HypercubeEvoDeutsch/

Who is interested, please join :)

1- the brass inserts are cool in theory, but in practice it's very easy to pull them out, e.g: when tightening the screws on the XY joiners (the y bearing holder on the original wasn't a bad design with the bolt and nut assembly), or the one in the middle of the x carriage. There are places where the brass inserts are perfectly fine, such as in the idler pulley holders or the rod end clamps because there's plastic in between them and they're acting as nuts. Where they're doing the job of a tapped hole (e.g: xy joiner) is where they're not so fine, because of the insert-pulling action I described before. In that area, they're also too close to the surface that touches the bearings; when you're inserting them with the soldering iron it's easy to make bumps on that surface, which requires a bit of sanding down in order to fit the bearings. The y axis bearings also give plenty of room for tabs for through-bolts and nuts.

3- The LM10LUU bearings on the Y axis are a good thing, smooth and mostly play-free. This makes me think 10mm rods and long bearings would be perfect for the z axis, since 10mm rods are extremelly stiff

4- the two in line 12mm bearings for the Z axis tend to lock up if the z-bearing holder is not perfectly made, the bearings on the x carriage will also lock up if the x axis rods are not perfectly parallel. Long bearings (eg: LM8LUU) would be good enough for those parts. The x carriage could also use a combination of one long bearing and one short bearing, which would decrease the weight and also have no play or very little play

All in all, as I'm enjoying building this and think it's an excellent design --despite some issues--, I'd like to thank Scott for this great contribution to DIY 3d printers!

Hmpf M5 Screws and Nuts @[email protected] Is a Version with M4 Screws possible, pls? :D

hey. i would like to have the stl. file of scott 3d's dial indicator attachment. he shows it in his video. but i cant find the file for it.....any ideas????

Hi, awesome job.
I would like to use some LM12LUU Bearings for the Z axis. Is it possible for you to make that work?
Also i have some SFU1204 400mm Ball Screws laying around and would use them for this build. Can you adjust the z nut part?
I can do this on my own if you could upload the part files.
Thanks in advance.

I liked the simplicity of this design so much that decided to modify XY-mechanics of my Vertex K8400 printer. If interested, follow the development at this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2427810

After 2 sets of 8mm Rods from 2 vendors, and 18 lm8uu bearings from 3 vendors not sliding like they should, I am giving up and going to 10mm rods for the X carriage.

I printed the Y_Carriage_xDia10_LM10UU and went to bring the X carriage with lm10UU bearing holders. There is not one in the file. Does anyone have an X carriage with LM10UU I can use?

Also, should an LM8UU bearing slide down a 8mm rod under it's own weight? Maybe I am just expecting too much. See this video https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=3eJDcDItUWU

Hey Scott, Any chance I can commission you to modify the XY setup to work with 12mm rods? I'm really bad at modifying meshes. Im going to use LM12UU bearings on the Y axis and RJMP-01-12 Bushings for the X with some Carbon Rods. Please let me know before I go ask somewhere else because you are the most familiar with the design.

Hi. I'm looking for 8mm files for z axis. I've already 8mm rods. I'm converting my ultimaker clone to this HCEvo. Because of that i need 8mm rod stl's. I need "Z axis linear rail brackets" and "Z axis bearing holder" for 8mm rods. Thanks for advance.

Echoing Vailac, thanks Scott for the design and Tech2C for the inspiration.
I am looking at building a 400mmx400mmx300mm unit. I have a few questions though before I order parts.
1.) For the bed mounting hole spacing (eg MK2 is 210mmx210mm hole spacing on 214x214mm bed size), is the hole spacing from the centre of the hole or the edge?
2.)Would you recommend using 10mm rails for the X and Y axis?
3.) Does the excel calculator work on larger builds (eg my 400x400x300mm)?
3.) Looking at some of the comments, it looks like some people are using direct drive rather than bowden. Am I reading this correct?

Thanks for any advice

First, credits where it's due: kudos for this design and to Tech2C who inspired it.

But also, food for thought: the main reason a 3D printer frame has to be rigid is the fact that the frame has to fight the inertia of the printing head and other fast moving components without deforming. But what if it doesn't have to?

A vibration damper that is the softest in X and Y (like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1344305) would let the frame move around instead of resisting the inertia of the head (for a cartesian printer, delta are a quite different in terms of inertia). But the inertia of the printer itself should also be as low as possible where the printer head is, so the printer actually moves around instead of its inertia fighting the inertia of the printing head. And this becomes really interesting is the HyperCube design because the printing head is always at the same place (the top) so you can focus your lightening effort in a single area (not so applicable in a typical Prusa design for example, where the head moves up and down).

So here are a few ideas for a HyperCube Evolution 2 with minimal inertia at the top, where the printing head is, so the printer frame could effortlessly move and tilt on its dampers instead of deforming:

• Move the X and Y stepper motor to the bottom. I would use 10mm carbon tube extension, because they are torsionaly extremely rigid and very cheap, using 100% infill 3D printed PLA or PC adapters for the stepper motor shaft and the 5mm small rod for the top pulley.
• Use carbon tube to support the building plate, and use a heating PCB (like Prusa i3 MkII) for a light, flat, rigid surface instead of the much heavier aluminium plus heater plus glass (the building plate spend most of its time at the top, especially with small parts, so its inertia counts even if it is not moving much by itself). A cheaper alternative could be an aluminium plate with multiple support point from a carbon tube frame but calibrating flatness could take a while, although it should be good for a while once calibrated.
• Use 2020 extrusions for the vertical and top frame so it is lighter at the top, and 2040 (40mm vertical) at the bottom to make sure the top movements are transferred to the bottom and ultimately to the dampers.
• Another option would be to build the entire top out of 10mm carbon fiber tubes (3 in a triangle for each extrusion) with 3D printed adapters to the bottom 2040 frame to make the top even lighter. 10mm carbon tube are so cheap now that 3 tubes cost less the a single 2020 extrusion. My main concern with that option would be the rigidity of the carbon tube/extrusion interface relying on 3D printed parts. It has to be tested since 2020 extrusion with 3D printed PLA corners are quite rigid.
• Use +2mm tubes instead of rods (i.e. a 10mm tube instead of a 8mm rod), with plastic bearings as the most common tubes available are aluminium which would be grooved by hardened steel bearing balls (IMHO, carbon tube are not a good idea in the rod application as their diameter varies a bit, which would create variation in friction). LM10UU bearings are almost as common as LM8UU but I'm not sure about their plastic equivalents. A PLA (or ideally POM/Delrin) 3D printed bearing should do the trick

The whole idea of all this is to lower the "internal" acceleration (since it is transferred to the frame movements) so you can increase the initial jerk speed and acceleration/deceleration ramps in the firmware, which have a much important contribution to the overall printing speed than the "maximum" speed for most objects.This wouldn't make the 3D printer inherently more precise, as its precision depends on the precision of the components, but it would (could) allow to maintain its precision at higher speeds since inertia would move the entire frame around instead of deforming the frame.

Note: The rule of thumb in precision movements (<100 microns) is the 25:1 ratio for length vs perpendicular dimension, so a 2020 extrusion is (rule of thumb) good for 500mm while a 8mm rod is only good for around 200mm (surprisingly, the same ratio apply to a mostly empty 2020 extrusion or a solid 8mm rod). However, if the inertia is mostly converted in the entire frame moving around instead of the frame fighting it, I think a 600mm frame or more using 2020 shouldn't be a problem, especially if using high rigidity aluminium like T6.

Well, that was a bit long for a comment and that's all for now. Don't ask me to test my theory myself because, as much as physics and mechanics are natural to me, I definitely suck at CAD design. I just hope it inspires someone to build, test and share a HyperCube Evolution 2 based on principles I haven't seen so far in 3D printers.

Hi Scott! I'm truly amazed with your desing. I saw you've added an xls file for calculating the correct extrusion, rails and lead screws sizes, however, would you mind sharing the sizes you used in the case of dual Z axis version? I'm pretty new on this and I'm affraid screwing it up using the spreadsheet :). Thanks a lot!

What is the max length of the Z axis lead screw for the 300mm build volume? The vendor I found only sells 320mm and 350mm integrated lead screw motors, I wonder which one of these will fit the best.

can you please upload a step file to Thingiverse? I know the facebook group has it but i would like to see it downloadable from here if possible

Is there a BOM just for the printed parts? I am trying to figure out which parts I need to print and how many, but I can't seem to find that anywhere. Looking to build this thing with the dual Z upgrade. Any help would be great. Thanks!

I have started my Hypercube. I am attempting to make a how to video as well for everyone here.

I could use some help though. 2 things.

Has anyone figure out the difference of the bed bracket files. I understand the numbers are angles, but can someone tell me the significance of them before I print all of them and test?
Also, I don't see files for an extruder here? is there a common extruder that is used that will mount to the 30x30?

Any chance of making a Z end stop and flag for those that dont need to use a bed level sensor?

@SCOTT_3D
Hey,
Thanks for the awesome design :)

In one of your youtube videos you said that you would upload a modified X-carriage for IGUS bearings. I cannot find this file. Could you please send me a link?

What's the estimated total price if you had to buy everything?

Hi @SCOTT_3D, can you please add the Y Endstop flag for a 10mm rod?

Thanks!

Is the 400w 24v PSU enough? The heat bed on it's own consumes 360 watts, I don't think 40 watts is enough to drive all the other components.

Is there a video how to assemble the hotend-holder? ( I didn't find one)

Or can anybody tell me how to do?

Scott
Great work. I am preparing to build one, 300 mm cubic build volume. It seems nearly obvious that the Double Z axis is the way to go from all the experimentation that you and Tech2C have done.

However as this design is all about stiffness and improved quality, I have been looking at the Z linear rails and it seems to me that 4 12mm linear rails are excessive. Once the second Z axis is used that controls rotation around the Y axis, and then there are no cantilever static loads around X axis.

So just 2 x 12 mm widely spaced Z linear rods would be sufficient stiff to control for "near perfect" X and Z axes alignment under vibration loads.

Of course everything is flexible and so I am still considering the issues of Z axis bearing tolerances, wondering whether to do some column stiffness analysis of rigid vs "flexible" Z rail mounts, and vs 400 vs 500mm Z rail length - in the context of how accurate can we assemble these of course. My gut feel is all that analysis would be overkill.

I feel adding the second Z axis provides effectively all the observable improvement for high quality hobby-grade machines, and going from 2 to 4 Z rails is negligible. The remaining decision is then where to put them and reducing them to 400, or staying at 500 and increasing the length of the Z axis bearing holders if bearing preload is not possible and bearing slop is an issue.

My thoughts.

Can somebody tell me how much filament (grams?) I need to print all parts? Thanks!

Heavy duty upper rod holders brackets, dual screw and added a slot ridge to stop rotation during alignment. one of the guys int he fb group made them for me.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/862003513952930/

Anibody has designed año IDEX direct solución for Hypercube?

Hello. My question can be a little stupid but i cant find the information.

im building my printer from scracht. No parts or anything

1. What extruder i need to buy?
2. How i decide the size of the bed bracket?
3. How i decide the size of the shafts?
4. Any other part not listed in the buy or build list that i need to know about to complete my project?

Has anyone made an optical sensor holder and flag for the Z axis? I am not going to use the probe sensor.

Hi Scott
Awesome build and I am looking forward to trying to make one myself
Woud you be willing to share the Inventor files?
Cheers
Bruce

Any chance to get an X Carriage and the XY joiners that use 10mm rods instead of 8?

they are as close as the can be :(

i am in the middle of doing the double z axis...for some reason i keep getting twisting and bindign , cant get a smooth motion ...using 4 12mm rods on the corners and then 2 2-start t10s for the lead screws to rais my 500x 500 bed.

Hey Scott! This looks spectacular. I can't wait to build it but am still waiting for delivery of my Anet A8. This build has made quite an impact on "Components Explorer" - your BOM takes up 2/3 of their 3030 profile details (with links to every part).

Great design! Do you think it would work with an e3d chimera?

Hi Scott, Firstly I'd like to say I love your design, especially the X carriage. I'd like to use it on my HyperCube, so, I was wondering if your X rods were the same spacing as those on the HyperCube

Hey
I would be happy if you could also upload parts to fore the 3030 extrusion Bed chassis
Since in my country it is really hard to find 2020 extrusion

HELLO SCOTT ,Hello, I finished this printer, but problems have been unable to continue, the printer is remote feed, but feeding machine on top middle position, because the distance is relatively long, try too hard, especially easy to plug. Who has a better solution?. Thank you

Is it possible that for the 2020 L-brackets for the bed are missing in the parts list?