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HyperCube Evolution

by SCOTT_3D, published

HyperCube Evolution by SCOTT_3D Apr 18, 2017
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HyperCube Evolution by SCOTT_3D is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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Summary

The HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer is a CoreXY printer inspired by the excellent HyperCube 3D Printer developed by Tech2C. The belt arrangement on that printer was the neatest CoreXY arrangement that I have seen.

I have leveraged the great work that Tech2C has done to refine his design and incorporated this with my own further development to reduce the number of printed parts and simplify the build.

Design goals for the HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer:

  1. Increase the stiffness of the printer to further improve / reduce vibration artefacts.

    • 3030 extrusion used for the frame
    • 2020 extrusion used for the build platform frame
    • 8mm diameter X rails
    • 10mm diameter Y rails
    • 12mm diameter Z rails
  2. Minimise the size of the printer for the chosen build volume.
    • Parametric CAD design in Autodesk Inventor
    • Excel spreadsheet provided to allow for customised printer size

The prototype printer, with a build volume of 300 x 300 x 300, met with all expectation but did show some small bed vibrations when printing at high speed due to the large bed and counter levered design. Therefore, two build options are available. A single Z axis version for smaller build platforms and a double Z axis version for larger beds or those wishing for a rock solid build platform.

The Evolution also features a quick attach X carriage to allow for interchangeable tools e.g. the extruder mount and a DTI mount for tramming the build platform.

More to come over the next few weeks as I'm awaiting parts for upgrade the prototype to use the double Z axis, and also the parts to convert my Geetech Prusa i3 into another HyperCube Evolution.

Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/

Changelog:

20.04.2017 Configuration file updated, multiple size Bed Brackets added
22.04.2017 BOM added
23.04.2017 Introduction video added https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rctCsUGnX8&feature=youtu.be
23.04.2017 Added 4 variations of Y carriage to suit different combinations of 8mm and 10mm rails. Plus bearing clamps to suit. Note - current X carriage only suits LM8UU bearings. An adaptor will be needed to use 10mm bushings.
30.04.2017 Error found in spreadsheet which resulted in 10mm rails being 30mm too long. Version 1.2 uploaded.
09.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Axis Linear Rail Bracket - Double Z - Left & Right.
13.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Nut Bracket - modified for easier assembly
13.05.2017 Z Nut Bracket for T10 leadscrew added
27.05.2017 Configuration file updated to include part print list (note that some part versions are still not available)
02.06.2017 Repetier configuration file uploaded
17.06.2017 40mm bed bracket added
17.06.2017 v1.1 versions of XY Stepper Mount and Idler Mount added which have slotted screw holes for different L brackets. v1.0 versions remain for those who don't need the slot.
17.06.2017 v1.1 of XY Stepper Mount and Idler Mount for 8mm diameter Y linear rails
18.06.2017 v1.4 configuration file added.. Thanks to Nicolas Harscoat for adding the shaft selector which then determines the part versions to be printed.
01.07.2017 CAD files uploaded for v1.0 as a pack and go. So the assembly should work. Note that some published parts are now v1.0+, but these files should get people going.
22.07.2017 Mounts for Full Graphic Controller added

BOM

Frame and linear guides – use the Excel spreadsheet to calculate the lengths required for your custom size.

3030 and 2020 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-3030W-Aluminum-Extrusion-Profile-Free-cutting-in-any-Length-Black-Color/32799761497.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.GpQMwK

16 x L type bracket for 3030 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/T-slot-L-type-90-degree-EU-standard-3030-aluminum-profile-Inside-corner-connector-bracket-with/32772827830.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

8 x 3030 corner brackets
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-lots-3030-corner-fitting-angle-aluminum-35-x-35-L-connector-bracket-fastener-match-use/32733275167.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB

Fasteners

M6 x 10 Button head screws - 6 off required for mounting of Stepper Motor Brackets and XY Idler Brackets

M5 x 10 Button head screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-lot-M5-10-Bolt-A2-70-ISO7380-Button-Head-Socket-Screw-Bolt-SUS304-Stainless-Steel/32328885247.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

M3 Socket head screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hex-Socket-Head-Cap-Screw-M3-Qty-90pcs-in-Box-Assortment-Kits-SUS-304-M3-4/32334431524.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 3030 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-30-M5-hammer-nut-M5-block-t-slot-nuts-for-3030-aluminum-profile-extrusion-Slot/32688393400.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 2020 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5-T-Nut-Hammer-Nut-Aluminum-Connector-T-Fastener-Sliding-Nut-Nickel-Plated-Carbon-Steel-for/32619352982.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB

4 x 3mm dowel pins
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GB119-304-Stainless-Steel-Cylindrical-Pin-Locating-Pin-M3-12/32789184323.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.iDrnoz

100pcs M3 5x5 Brass knurled insert
http://www.banggood.com/100pcs-M3x5x5mm-Metric-Threaded-Brass-Knurl-Round-Insert-Nuts-p-1050182.html?rmmds=search

Motors

1 or 2 x NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8 – length needs to be ~30mm longer than required Z travel, depending on nut type
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-3D-Printer-NEMA-17-Lead-Screw-300mm-Stepper-Motor-Z-Axis-3D-Printer-KIT-Step/32579962696.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.UfVwc7

3 x NEMA 17 42mm Stepper Motors
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CE-certification-3pcs-4-lead-Nema17-Stepper-Motor-42-motor-D-shaft-motor-42BYGH-1-7A/32786907415.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

Pulleys and Belts

2 x GT2 Timing Pulley (20 teeth) 5mm bore for 6mm belt
6 x GT2 Idler Pulley (20 teeth) 3mm bore
2 x GT2 Idler Pulley without teeth (20 teeth) 3mm bore
5m Polyurethane GT2 6mm belt
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-Meter-Polyurethane-GT2-6mm-Open-Timing-Belt-Width-6mm-GT2-2GT-Belt-For-3D-Printer/32616409980.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB

Linear Bearings

4 x LM12UU 12mm Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM10UU 10mm Linear Ball Bearings or 2 x LM10LUU 10mm Long Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM8UU 8mm Linear Ball Bearings

Heated Bed components

1 x Heated Bed 300x300
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-RepRap-3D-Prusa-Mendel-Printer-MK2A-300-300-3-0mm-Heater-Bed-RAMPS-1-4/32668984871.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

4 or 6 x Levelling screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-Leveling-components-M3-screw-Leveling-spring-Leveling-knob-suite-free-shipping-M3-40-IMG/32562830096.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

1 x 100kohm NTC3950 thermistor
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-3d-printer-parts-100K-ohm-NTC-3950-Thermistors-with-cable-for-3D-Printer-Reprap-Mend/32489800025.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

Control System

1 x 24V 400W power supply
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Best-quality-24V-16-7A-400W-Switching-Power-Supply-Driver-for-LED-Strip-AC-100-240V/32318296978.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

1 x RAMPS 1.4 with stepper drivers and display – NOTE: This board needs to be modified to run a 24V system. If you don’t then you will kill the Arduino Mega!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-A4988-Stepper-Driver-Module-with-Heatsink-1pcs-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-RAMPS1-4-LCD-12864/1869163278.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.0rKDs5

1 x RAMPS 1.4 fan extender module – use to run the 12V fans
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-3D-Printer-Reprap-Ramps1-4-RRD-Fan-Extender-Max-20V-Fan-Expansion-Module/1804966614.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.rT5D2f

1 x DC-DC 24V-12V step down module
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-DC-24V-18V-to-12V-3A-Step-Down-Module-MINI-Buck-Converter-Power-Supply-Circuit/32778770850.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.G2tjiK

1 x Arduino MEGA 2560
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mega-2560-CH340G-ATmega2560-16AU-Compatible-for-Arduino-Mega-2560/32517341214.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT

1 x Power expansion module (if needed)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/for-3D-Printer-General-Add-on-Heated-Bed-Power-Expansion-Module-High-Power-Module-expansion-board/32706099435.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

1 x 5V NPN M12 inductive sensor
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M12-4mm-detection-5VDC-NPN-NO-LJ12A3-4-Z-BX-5V-cylinder-inductive-proximity-sensor-switch/32553311139.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.iDrnoz

4 x Optical end stops
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Newest-1-x-Optical-Endstop-End-Stop-Limit-Switch-Solution-for-3D-Printer-or-CNC/32656689805.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.9.TjpVYa&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_10136_10137_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_10134_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10103_10102_10096_10148_10147_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10177_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10181_10037_10033_10032_10078_10079_10077_10073_10070_10123_10124,searchweb201603_2,afswitch_1,ppcSwitch_7&btsid=0a677c30-15c5-4511-bd9b-21cec7f98719&algo_expid=9458fd9d-18ca-4360-9463-2e064369527b-4&algo_pvid=9458fd9d-18ca-4360-9463-2e064369527b

Cable

5m x 24AWG 4 core UL2464 cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1M-UL-2464-2C-3C-4C-24-AWG-Multi-core-PVC-jacket-cable-Tinned-copper-wire/32781273770.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT

5m x 24AWG Red Black cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IEKOV-5-M-Tinned-copper-24AWG-2-pin-Red-Black-cable-300V-PVC-insulated-wire-Electric/32649240375.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT

2m x 14AWG Silicone cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/14AWG-Flexible-Silicone-Wire-Cable-Soft-High-Temperature-Tinned-copper-UL-1M/32653995219.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

5m x Servo extension cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/servo-JR-color-extension-cable-3p-line-futaba-jr-model-aircraft-model-wiring-Wholesale-30-core/32610086634.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135

Connectors for Stepper motors
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20-Sets-Micro-JST-2-0-PH-6-Pin-Connector-plug-Male-Female-Crimps/32399923294.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.X3vJKL

Print Settings

Printer:

HyperCube Evolution

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.2mm

Infill:

25 - 50%

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I am looking to build a custom 500 x 500 x 500 dual Z hypercube evo I am currently making a BOM for it. I am stuck up alittle on how to choose a bed bracket. Can someone explain/recommend me a bed bracket that will work with my printer?
Thanks.

Hello and first of all let me say thank you for all the time that has gone into this. I have a question about the excel file. when I was doing the config for dual Z. I noticed the parts list has it marked for 2 pieces for all Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket. Do I only need 2 each of the "Double" version though?? Since I'm using a Dual Z setup? Also the Z_Nut_Bracket_T10_Nut. What is that model for? Sorry if that has been asked before.

Thanks in advance.
Curtis

For dual Z:

Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_Left/Right are at the bottom; there are two of each or 4 in total.
Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_Double_Z_Left/Right are at the top; also two of each or 4 in total.

Z_Nut_Bracket_T10_Nut would be for a 10mm lead screw nut vs the standard 8mm.

Awesome Thank you for your reply..

Thoughts on the prospects of mounting a small spindle, or mini router to the X carriage for some basic CNC engraving or light milling?

Forget about it.. the X axis rod arrangement isn't stiff enough to handle a spindle.

I have a Shapeoko 2 CNC machine that's open source and freely available (albeit rather old in the scheme of things), there's a somewhat printable CNC machine on THingiverse called the Root 3 if you're interested. I haven't built one but it looks pretty good and has a mature community around it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1750276

Root 3 CNC multitool router 3D printed parts

Hi, I'm looking for an idea for the construction of a PickAndPlace home machine. In machines such head moving speeds are about 10x larger than typical 3D printers. Therefore it is very important that the displaced mass (head and X axis) is as small as possible. That's why I'm interested in a construction like HyperCube. And here is my question: what is the maximum speed of the head movement I can get with such a project without losing accuracy and shortening the service life? Of course I will not print 3D.

Comments deleted.

Suggested minor improvement to the Y-carriage.

Although it looks neat and tidy, the two stands of timing belt between the motor and the Y-carriage do not need to be parallel for XY-core to work correctly. This means it is possible to move the non-toothed idler pulley in the direction of the Y-rail. Since the position of the non-toothed idler pulley determines the x-size of the Y-carriage, making this move reduces the x-size of the Y-carriage and so increases the X print size.

Suggested improvement:

  1. Remove the piece of plastic between the non-toothed idler pulley and the belt hole.
  2. Move the axel hole for the non-toothed pulley towards the Y-rail. I think a movement of 8mm should be possible.
  3. Reduce x-dimension of carriage by the same amount that the pulley was moved.

This reduction gives a useful addition of 16mm to the X print size.

Hi, it really a nice project!
But I wasn't recommended to put belt's strain on the X slider directly in long term, it will break someday.
I find a way to solve this problem, and it is really easy to adjust tightness.
https://imgur.com/a/op22F

Hi,

Thank you for the files. But..... where is the spreadsheet file ?

There are a few bom's on the wiki page. https://hevo.wiki/index.php/Main_Page

Dear SCOTT_3D there is a big issue with stl in 10mm size the hole are 10,4mm big this is a lot to much for a correct calibrated printer ...
rods are not fixed even with screw screwed to max.... all my print to waste :-(

for example : XY_Idler_Mount_1.1.stl
XY_Stepper_Mount_1.1.stl....

Hypercube Evolution Shaft Holes made smaller
by bret4

Great Thanks for the links i will win some time instead of redraw it !

Is there a Remix of the X-Carriage for 10mm Rods? I havent found one :/

There are some in the remixes. I've done one myself for use with carbon rod and igus bushings. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538263

Don't used 10mm steel rods. They're too heavy, and will introduce ringing on your prints.

Hypercube Evolution X Carriage for 10mm igus Bushings, and cable chain.
by jsondag

me too! :(

I need to get better at assemblies.in Inventor

Hi, nice work! I wonder if you could add an x-carriage for my preferred sintered bronze bearings. Those are available for diameter 8 rods in different dimensions. The outer diameters are either 10/11/12 or 14.

Could you upload a modified version for one of these outer diameters? 12 would be fine for me.

Thanks a lot in advance, greetings from Germany

This one I made for igus bushings. The OD of those is 12mm. Should work for you. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538263
The hole is modeled at 12.3, and on my printer fits the 12mm OD igus very well.

Hypercube Evolution X Carriage for 10mm igus Bushings, and cable chain.
by jsondag

Yes, how do I get the spreadsheet file?

Randy

Hi,

Could somebody post, how to wire endstops and how to configure them ?
I´m using for X and Y optical and for Z axis NPN inductive proximity sensor.
And at least - Repetier FW

Thanks
Best regards and happy printing !

Lukas

copy the V S G voltage signal ground. match the label on the boards

Sep 13, 2017 - Modified Sep 13, 2017
lkvapil - in reply to warham

Got working.
And could somebody post Slic3r setting or Simplify 3D settings ?
Thanks

Lukas

I missing a calculation for the rods at the Steppers in the excel sheet
i wanna build a Hypercube with Build vol 300x300x500 but i dont know how long these rods should be

Why are the holes in the Y Carriage for the LM10UU 8mm size, 8.4mm dia? They are way to big when printed. Can't clamp the 8mm rods in the plastic parts. Do you have some files that I can modify? Can change the stl files. step files could work.

Hello, file for LM10UU X Carriage please?

Why doesn't the hole in the double z left and right bracket go all the way through? You can't bolt it to the extrusion it the hole doesn't go through. Maybe you did this for a reason?

Where's the LM10UU X carriage?

hi there, I have wanted to use this design for my first corexy printer but any way to make the x and y gantry for lm12uu as well? I had built the old mega prusa i3 before and have all 12mm rods that can be used on this. I will keep looking in case I missed a remix or such thanks.

prusa system can easly manage 12mm rods but not the hypercube

12mm steel rods for the X axis will be much too heavy. People even use carbon fiber rods on X to reduce weight...

Hi guys, any motor mount/ idler mount for 4040 profile?

Apologies if this has been asked before. This looks like a great upgrade. I don't yet have a 3D printer so looking for a good base printer to start with. I see the Anet A8 mentioned often below. Is this upgrade mainly for the A8 or does this also work with other other printers. Any recommendations for a beginner? I'm pretty good at building stuff so constructing from a kit should be fine.

You can build this printer from scratch.

BUT:

  1. You will need someone to print some parts (easy enough online or in the FB group can help)
  2. You will have a better understanding of the operation if you had a 3D printer before
  3. If you are hands on, this is a really fun challenge
  4. You may need some assistance with the electronics (but this is independent of if you had a 3D printer before or not

Thanks @chanders. Makes sense that I attempt a kit build first - i can then use to print the parts for the a Hypercube.

Didn't want to say it :)

Check out the Wanhao Duplicator I3. Its an excellent printer with TONS of mods and owners

off question, what is that filament in some of the shots? the green/yellowish neon looking one?

Thanks!

can i use TMC2100 in this ?

yes, but probably with many troubles. TMC2208 is easiest option or LV8729 if you want to use any 32bit board.

I don't see why not. They are good drivers. I did read somewhere that there was some whining in the motors but I would think that that was due to the unique motor/driver combination and not the printer design.

too torque chop, 2100 required very very low acc.

What is the outer frame size of this Printer?

I used the HyperCube Evolution configuration spreadsheet with my preferred travel, and then added 60mm (2x 30mm widths) to the X and Y beam dimensions it recommends to arrive at the final width. The height of the printer is the same as the length of the calculated Z beams.

Is there any list of which parts is needed and what amount of the part for a full set of parts for the printer?

3d printed parts? Have a look at the configuration spreadsheet.

Oh man, did not realize that it was more than on page on the sheet. Thanks!

I actually printed 2020 at first, got fed up with it, and then just ordered 3030. I threaded 100mm long 1mm thick single walled printed 2020 onto 5/16inch threaded rods. Everything was going fine until I decided to bring the entire batch of printed 2020 to 100°C in the oven to add a bit of ease threading in the 5/16inch threaded rods. I watched a video that said you lose a bit on the Z axis doing this baking without mention of warping. This baking warped the printed 2020 - I should have known better and tested a single piece first. Perhaps it was the single walled nature of my specific parts that induced this warping. I still finished assembling a 400mm x 400mm frame with the printed 2020 which "seems" fairly rigid yet I believe only Salvador Dali would use it as a 3D printer... My experience/exposure is assembling a single DIY 3D printer kit and have no example of what acceptable rigidity is - thus I just went ahead and ordered the 3030. I may add some thoughts on this when I've learned more. For me, the time and cost of printing the 2020 was not worth attempting to circumvent the aluminum 3030. At the very least, it gave me some experience to share. The individual 100mm PLA printed 2020 extrusion is exremely tough and rigid by the way.

Hi Scott is they're any interest to use 12mm rods on z axis in the double z axis configuration instead of using 8mm ? I have plenty off 8mm bushing and rods so I would like to use it. I don't see any reason to use 12mm because there is not effort on the rod like in the single z axis version but may be I m wrong what do you thinks of that ? Many thanks

Your logic sounds sound to me :) The only thing I would think is if you have a particularly tall version of the printer you may have some vibration at the midpoint if the printer is not no a level surface.

Classic 30x30x30 I m also thinking about mgn 12 for y to reduce number of printed part but if I continue I will have to renamed it because it will not be an evo anymore :-(

Just purchased all the parts needed for the printer. Will start printing out the remaining parts now. Can't wait to get started on building this!

Aug 16, 2017 - Modified Aug 16, 2017

Anyone experimented with print setting for the 3d parts? Also, any tips for achieving the best results?

Aug 16, 2017 - Modified Aug 16, 2017

i tried to enter a 500 x 500 bed in the excel config

so i enter 528 x 528 and 525 x 525, but no matter what bracket i select it says N/A under it

what am i doing wrong?

screenshot: http://imgur.com/a/JjCTU

i just reopened the sheet and started over... problem solved

I was just having the same issue, just err: 509. OpenOffice doesnt work, use microsoft

both libreoffice and google sheets works fine.... i think you missed my post that i reopened and it worked

Didn't miss anything, saw it and was giving out the knowledge that I acquired. Take it or leave it...

Aug 15, 2017 - Modified Aug 15, 2017

have anyone the "Z_Nut_bracket" for this dimensions ?:
http://www.motedis.com/shop/images/product_images/popup_images/3402_2.jpg

I have only Linux and Autodesk don't work here
Freecad can't read .ipt files

can me help anyone ?

Aug 15, 2017 - Modified Aug 16, 2017
Warrior66 - in reply to bubblefish

I sent you a message with the file "Z Nut Braket 1.0.ipt" exported as STEP file.
Edit: I just realized that the text has been altered by the system (several "*" and "#" have been removed), so if you still need the file "Z Nut Braket.stp", let me know where to upload it, or alternatively give me an email address where I can send the file in attach (here I don't see any option to attach a file to a message).

I really love this desgin! I ordered all Parts today and going to build i as soon as the Parts arrived.

I was lucky today is Banggood Sale so i got 11% discount on almost everything:

https://goo.gl/9W9CmA

Thank you so much for you Design!

What was the total cost for all the parts?

all the aliexpress link is in russia? post cost 10$+ each item?

Hi Scott , first of all -very nice work ! Hope to build this model :) One request - unfortunately I'm using older version of Inventor ( like many others) and I can't open your assembly . It may be great if you will add .STEP file so others can open and use your 3D model ( not only Inventor users, but other CAD systems also )
Anyway , great job , nice done !

Aug 15, 2017 - Modified Aug 15, 2017

Which Types of Extrusions you use ?

there are so many types ,
i figured out it could be 30x30 8 Type B but not 100% sure
but what about the 20x20 ?!?!?!
are those 20x20 6 Type B ?

Could you please Edit your BOM with those infos

The choice between Bosch and Item type profiles is probably only relevant in Europe. You want the 8mm opening for 3030s so B-type is correct. I also used B-type for 2020s. Make sure your brackets, fasteners etc match the profiles.

The link in the BOM shows a profile with an 8mm opening if you're in doubt.

Aug 15, 2017 - Modified Aug 15, 2017

Quick suggestion/question, on the y axis rod clamps in the xy mounts why is the threaded nut on the outside instead of the inside so it cant be tightened after the pulleys and motor are installed? If the nut was installed on the inside and the recess for the cap head was on the outside it would simplify assembly. Looking forward to building this once I get my extrusions in.

That was the original way they were designed but the threaded insert is next to impossible to install without melting things. Simply preassemble everything on to the Y rod and install as an assembly. Works great.

makes sense.

I am thinking that I would like to make this printer, but use a Plywood cube for the frame. I would like to put the motors on the outside of the cube so I can heat the chamber and not destroy the motors. do you think this would be possible. I would mount the z axis motor below the cube with the lead screw poking thru the ply wood cube.

Your thoughts would be appreciated...

Using plywood will be OK, but wood changes size and shape with moisture and heat. Heating a plywood box is probably not the best idea. I am working on rebuilding my printer and have decided to use the HyperCube design, but enclose it with Plexiglas or something similar. That will give me the rigidity of the aluminium extruded frame, but a heated enclosure for some plastics.

Will I be able to move the x/y motors outside the cube?

Hello All, sorry if this question looks stupid, but the 3d printable files have versions. which version should i use? v1.1 or 1.0 or the latest available version ? am using Lin's bom with a standard 300x300 config.

Hello Scott, great design you picked for improving. Indeed, this is one of the best coreXY belt arrangement I've seen. I'm quite amazed by the attention to detail for every part you designed. Also, I can't emphasize how happy I am that you have uploaded the source cad files, It lets me do a virtual assembly before printing the parts and that it's priceless. Thank you very much!!!
One thing I've discovered, check the "Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket". Both versions, 1.0 and 1.1 seems to be missing a hole for the M5 screw.

Keep up the good work.
Martin

Hi Martin, thanks for the kind words. In general, use the latest version of the files. Not all parts have v1.1 so you will have a mix of 1.0 and 1.0 to print.

Hola! Pudiste conseguir el perfil 3030 en BsAs? Yo rediseñé todas las piezas para 2020, pero si lo pudiera hacer en 3030 mejor... Saludos!

Hola tocayo, se que Lineartec los vende. Ni idea el precio, pero ellos trabajan los Rexroth de Bosch que es de lo mejor que se puede conseguir. Hace unos 2 años compre en Rulemanes Munro perfil 3030 pero recuerdo que me asesinaron un poco con el precio.
Por mi parte, tengo ganas de armar una maquina con cama caliente de 300x300mm y 400mm de altura; asi que si no consigo 3030, iría por los 4040 que la gente de INGIA los vende a precio razonable. Prefiero pasarme de bruto a que quede fragil. Saludos!

Gracias por el dato! Voy a chequear en Lineartec. Según estuve viendo, en 2020 para estas medidas no hay problema, la estructura es suficientemente sólida, pero de cualquier manera si pudiera hacerla en 3030 mejor. Iba a comprar el anodizado negro de INGIA, pero voy a seguir buscando el 3030.

Saludos!

Aug 12, 2017 - Modified Aug 12, 2017

Hello. whats the name of that part that looks like a puley with a bolt connected to the stepper motors??? it isn't listed in the parts and it didnt came with my 3 stepper motors

It's the

2 x GT2 Timing Pulley (20 teeth) 5mm bore for 6mm belt

Anyone else get the power supply linked in the description? I believe mine just blew up on me. No longer works, and when I shake it, some solid of thermal paste has been falling out.

Aug 10, 2017 - Modified Aug 10, 2017

The postman has dropped a few more parcels and I'm now building in earnest, but I have a question about controller electronics. I've been reading about CoreXY and 8 vs 32 bit controllers and etc. and I'm wondering how people have fared using 8 bit controllers, whether they've hit any quality or speed problems when starting to push the machine (and how fast they were going!).

EDIT: I'll be sticking with 1/16 microstepping, I'm fine with the noise and my 4 year old loves the "robot noises" :-)

If I'm going to go 32 bit, my current front runner is an Arduino Due + Smart RAMPS, running 32 bit Repetier. It's cheap, I like Repetier's no nonsense information-dense display and I'm used to the Repetier "way of doing things". Of course a DuetEthernet and PanelDue would be amazing, but it's verrrry expensive and I'm not totally sold that a touch screen is actually better than a rotary (i.e. tactile) encoder from a usability standpoint.

I've more or less discounted the MKS SBASE + TFT32 because the user interface is information-poor and looks poorly thought out.

Hi scott in your description you say that the 303030 size have some vibration bed issue.

did you mean with the only one Z axis support or 2 ??? i want to convert an prusa i3 To hypercube but i want a nice quality so should i chose a 303030 or 202030 machine size ? i will make the 2 z axis version in anycase. I would like to have a evolutive machine size so a 303030 sound good even i start with a 20*20 bed what do you think ? thanks

I'd like to build something similar to this machine but i'm hoping to use 2020 for all the extrusions as i already have a bunch sitting around. What would i have to do to the measurements to do this? Would i just add 20mm to each?

The Evolution uses 3030. The standard uses 2020 so you should just use that: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766

HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC
by Tech2C

Hello,nice Printer.
Can you update it with normal Hex-Nuts for 8mm XY Rods?
I will make a compact Version with a Printer dimension of 340x340x440mm.
Or can i have the .step Files?

best regards

Any reason why you're not using the frame for linear motion? Could further reduce complexity using v-slot rails.

Usually more expensive to go that route, and the whole point of this build is the core-xy belt system.

when i select the Z axis to be double somehow the 12 mm Diameter Shaft length decreases and when i select the Z axis to be single the shaft length increases.... in the Excel sheet.

cannot understand why does this happen??

Look at the main pictures. The dual Z-axis uses a bar in the middle while the single Z-axis shafts go from top of the printer to the bottom

I can't check to confirm right now, but it is possible that the changed motor mounting solution requires a shorter shaft. Again, can't confirm, but it sounds possible.

Was assembling my excel sheet, pulley and belts link is dead for some reason...

Jul 27, 2017 - Modified Jul 28, 2017

Hi All,

Has anyone done a CoreXY style printer using 8020 series 15 yet? I am looking for the 3D parts to print using this standard.

Thank you!

Comments deleted.

Real 8020 Series 15 is 1.5" x 1.5" and 2020 is only 20mm or .78" x .78" series 15 could hold an elephant :)

Comments deleted.

Most of the resolution of a 3D printer is arbitrary. There is a very easy mod to increase the Z axis resolution, actually. If you drive both Z axis rods from 1 motor, you will be running on 2:1 gearing ratio, increasing the z-axis resolution. Other than that, most of the quality improvements of a 3D printer come from rigidity and consistency. the Original Prusa i3 Mk2 is a fantastic machine. Realistically, it costs around twice as much as the HEVO. The hevo has about 10cm more build area in each direction, and is a learning experience. It is quite easy to build, but going through the motions is a great way to familiarize yourself with how printers work.

How hard would it be to make this into a 400x400x400 Printer?

It is incredibly easy! If you download the Configurator spreadsheet, you can put in the side lengths you'd like, and then select the double z axis version. It tells you all of the parts you need to change (frame and belt), and what the new lengths and quantities are.

Just make sure you pick the double z version - even the 300^3 should have it.

Thanks for you reply. i been playing with your excel doc.

i noticed it doesn't state all the parts you need. like lead screw length and type, etc.

regards
Jeremy

If you extend an axis by 100mm, extend the lead screw / rods / etc by 100mm in that direction.

These depends on your build. The standard size uses integrated motor/screws. Jump on youtube and have a look at scotts vids.

Hey everyone. Im seriously considering building this. But with a twist. I want to print the 3030 and 2020 extrusion. what do you guys think?

really print the entire length of the extrusion?? man i salute you for even thinking of doing that :-)

Big enough printer to print the extrusion?

Yikes, it seems like you might run into an awful lot of problems. I'm not saying you shouldn't do it, but I think you should consider the following:

  1. Unless the printer's going to be really small, you're going to have some trouble printing extrusions that are 400mm+

  2. The extrusions are probably not going to be perfectly printed. This could affect both how well parts connect to the extrusions and how even the frame is, both of which could eventually affect the quality of your prints.

  3. The material itself. Aluminum extrusions are really rigid. I'd worry about the rigidity of a plastic frame, and the how well it could stand up to the stress of printing.

It seems like the cost of aluminum extrusions would be much less than how much of a pain it would be to try to print them. That being said, if you do decide to print them, I would be very curious to see how they turn out!

can i build it for the larger bed option but use the smaller one till i feel the need to just upgrade the bed in one go instead of building the entire new frame again?

yes you can, you would just need to set your 0x,0y pos of the smaller bed.

Can you make the parts for 2020 profile please?

Comments deleted.

Hi,

I'm working on it as well. I have all the parts re designed for 2020 extrusion. I'll upload later today.
Please consider this is a work in progress, not mounted yet due to my extrusions didn't arrive.

He, someone send me a link yesterday with also a redesign on facebook. i have printed already some parts. But when you have uploaded it i check, many thnx

Would you mind sharing the link you received on facebook?

Has anyone seen parts for 8020 series 15 yet?

HyperCube Evo Parts for 20x20 Extrusion
by fsadak

Hi sniperx,

this is my version for 2020 extrusion. Enjoy.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2452700

Hypercube Evolution 2020

thnx men, i am looking for the blockts that use 10mm ball bearings. only need blocks for igus and they need to be pressed in with 40 kilograms force, kan you make them a little bit smaller?

Comments deleted.

Has anyone figured out how to mount the optical end switch on the left side? The zero side??? There is no hole like there is on the right side for me to push the wires through.

theres a remix version on facebook with larger holes. I also put up a remix of that one with no brass inserts required here on thingiverse.

Jul 23, 2017 - Modified Jul 23, 2017
helicopterguru - in reply to Phocus

Hey buddy. You have to remove the jst-xh connector housing and solder the wires directly to the pcb. Then run this wire through the channel inside the print, which brings the wire out to where the X max end stop is mounted.

maybe you just had mount it inverted?

Hi, With double Z and 200x200 print area it looks like 12mm rods for the Z axis is a bit excessive. This looks like an optimization made for single Z, are you considering publishing an option with smaller rods on Z axis?

Comments deleted.

Is there a Remix or a Way to use 2 E3DV6 on the Hypercube?
I want to build me a second Printer, but i need 2 Extruder.

There is a bracket for the cyclope/chimera and chimera is a dual hotend... hope to be usefull

Thank you Elstak.

Hi Guys,

It's getting really hard to find 3030 extrusion where I live... Did any body remixed this for 2020 extrusion instead?

I'm trying to edit the parts in Fusion 360, but I'm realizing I'm no such a great 3D designer =).

Thanks!

i have a lot of 3030 available at my end... wondering if i could send it across to you...

Thanks a lot for your kindess man! The thing is that the shipping costs are huge, I live in Argentina, almost the other side of the world =).
Anyway, I'll check shipping costs from India and back to you in case they were affordable.

Martin,

We have a lot in Brazil

HyperCube Evolution ST

I think 2020 will not enough for the hyperube EVO dimenions.... if you can't found locally just buy from internet....

Il suffit d'un simple calcul de force pour voir que le 2020 suffit amplement.
C'est juste du business.

Shipping costs are huge... That's why I thought about 2020 extrusion instead.

I seen.... i check online... 900€ shipping from china.... omg....

I, like many others, are very impressed with this design and it ticks many of the boxes for my next build. I, like many others, can't help but my own stamp on the design. I have a couple of printers with dual Z-axis steppers and I have always wondered how I will know if they get out of sync due to lost steps. Of course, if it gets too bad, the Z axis will bind but a few lost steps could go unnoticed. So, before I order the parts for my Evo, I'm considering using a dual Z axis design with a single stepper motor and a 6mm GT2 belt between drive pulleys on the two acme leadscrews to synchronize them. I don't know that this is really necessary, but I also tell myself it can't hurt. In order to pull this off, I'll need a GT2 closed loop belt which comes in fixed lengths. Can anyone with an assembled Evo tell me what the center to center dimension is between the leadscrews on a dual Z configuration?

I just got mine working. I am adding the end stops right now. I have a third lead screw, and once I get a smaller belt, I will move the motor inside the printer and attach it to the bed as well giving me 3 mount points to life the bed from. I may test removing the smooth rods. Currently i have a dual Z 300x300 version. The belt that is attached right now is 1140 GT2 6mm. The pulleys are 60 tooth pulleys. https://photos.app.goo.gl/T1mvyH9Qpz5m5bXF3

If driving two lead screws from a singe stepper, You may want to do with a less aggressive thread pitch. Maybe a TR8x2 instead of the common T8x8... That is four time the leverage (or rotational travel) for the same z-travel. My $.02...

look in the facebook group at sandros design for this.

Sorry, I don't do facebook. Has this solution already been designed and implemented?

Yeah, I have built my Hypercube EVO as you described. I used a 20 teeth pulley on the motor and 40 teeth pulleys on the lead screws to achieve a 2:1 transmission ratio.

That way the torque should be in the same region as with two motors.

That design seems to have an advantage that it doubles the resolution of the Z axis. That is, the steps per millimeter would be double that of a direct drive configuration. It also seems like it would have the downside that it doubles the amount of time it takes to slew from one end stop to the other.
Is your design the one shown in the photos that Sabagmn linked below? If so, could you share the stl files the for additional components you designed?

My design is a different one. It uses two P08 pillow bearings, mounted on a spacer that I have published here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2447129

The motor mount is the same as the original one, just mounted upside down. It only works because my printer has tall rubber feet and thus enough clearance from the ground to mount it this way.

Hypercube Evolution P08 Bearing Spacer
by tsal

This design, if that is what you are looking for: http://photos.gerbers.us/GalleryThumbnails.aspx?gallery=4819169

Thanks! That is a different design than the one I envisioned but probably better. It solves the tensioning problem I had yet to tackle.

Does anyone have any idea how likely two Z axis steppers are to get out of sync? Also, are both motors typically driven by one driver (coils in parallel) or from two drivers where both are fed the same step and direction signals?

Yah someone has. I have also connected two steppers but not tested yet to see if that will cause problems.

Hello there and congrats for the excellent design.
I am planning to build (already ordered most parts) a 300x300x300 HCEVO using (most of) the mechanical and electronics parts of my ANET A8. The question is:
Can the mainboard of the ANET A8 (running Marlin or actually Skynet3D) be used in the HCEVO?
I see that the way the X and Y moves are realised is quite different, so is it just a setting change in Marlin? If not, can the repetier firmware be loaded on the ANET mainboard?
Thanks in advance...

Would there be any advantage to mounting any of the motors and related parts outside of the frame perimeter? Adjusting the frame perimeter so the build platform fits inside, but no much else. Just a thought.

Feel free to join: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/
New FB group for people who don't like bossy administrator ;-)

Hey guys,
Maybe i missed this BUT are there mods to use NEMA23 motors? i want to go 300x300x500(H)

I use nema23's in my Monster 3D printer (150015001700)mm. What kind of help do you need?

Hey Richard. I was wondering of anyone has files for the stepper mounts and what size gt2 belt and gears etc was used. I recon the stepper central and a belt to 2 lead screws for z but the y and x? Or what best?

Ooooh, I'm sure that maybe no-one has. Nema23 is way too overkill for Hypercube's needs.

But you know, you can install Autodesk Inventor and download the build files. From those you can just modify them for Nema23.

I'm not so good at cad lol bit I'll give it a go. Another question: in terms of belts what's the best way to gauge what length is needed?

Well, if you want to 3D print well, than you have to learn CAD.

6mm belt for 500mm build plate is an absolute MAX. After that you have to go wider and maybe with better belts. You can measure the belt by looking how it is installed on the printer, it depends on the printer.

I totally agree one need think me cad. I'm currently using fusion 360. I knock up stuff as and when I need it. I'm not the best so can take a while for complicated stuff. I'm still learning fusion

Comments deleted.

No - i already have 3 NEMA23 and 1 NEMA17 from a 3D printer i bought in 2010. So i am building a new 3D printer from the hardware i already have. I don't want to buy new stuff if i can reuse :)

I have not seen these yet. After spending a few hours in tinkercad I think it probably would not be too difficult to modify the X,Y mounts. The Z mounts might require some though depending how close the motor is to the frame in case if affected the alignment of the lead screw. If so the motor might need to be mounted above or below the frame wall.

I haven't used tinkercad BUT can i edit the files included in Tinkercad?

Jul 18, 2017 - Modified Jul 18, 2017
petertee - in reply to warham

The other thing to consider is you might not really desire the massive torque of a NEMA23 on the Z axis. At best it's overkill, at worst (e.g. Z endstop/probe failure) it will knock your hotend HARD onto the heatbed, damaging the bed, nozzle, or possibly even the Z axis mechanics - such as a flex coupler if you're using one.

It might be handy for Bowden extruders though - I'm new to the Bowden thing but have read about how they have quite high torque requirements.

@shearder - I'm planning on building my HC Evo to 330x330x500, but using NEMA17s (relatively high torque ones, from an Ordbot Hadron kit from 2014 that I never ended up building). I'll make sure to add a 'make' and put my progress/thoughts/findings there as I go along.

As far as the electronics go can the entire build be completed with just soldering, or is crimping also necessary?

totally depends on what wiring you use and how you want to do it.

I´m building this awesome printer and I have question. Why are there on extruder carriage 2 optical endstops and it is possible to give there only 1 ?

Thanks

Jul 17, 2017 - Modified Jul 17, 2017
warham - in reply to lkvapil

yes its possible to use only 1 if you want. but if something goes wrong the machine cant know if it reach the end of travel.

And is somewhere available configuration for FW ?

Thanks

facebook groups

I'm about to start building my Hypercube Evolution soon, and using the excellent Autodesk 360 online model as a basis for figuring things out:

https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761edd5edf41a5b4aa05?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfEAF0gA

One thing I've noticed on this is that it has an arrangement where the part cooler duct is mounted behind the X-carriage, rather than sandwiched between the X-carriage and hotend assembly. Does anyone know where to find this part cooler duct (and the adapter)? The only thing I can glean from the model is that the name of the duct is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_1.0, and that its mounting bracket is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_MOUNT_1.1. (Presumably it's for an E3D Titan Aero extruder, but it looks like it's generic enough to fit many of the hotend mounts floating around.) I've searched high and low on Thingiverse to no avail..

Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:346767.

I will be using a Titan Aero hence the mount and fan duct; no STL files for it yet as it still needs work.

HyperCube Evolution
Jul 17, 2017 - Modified Jul 17, 2017
petertee - in reply to TunnelVision

No worries, I look forward to seeing it (and if you would like a beta tester for the fan duct I should be building my HC Evo in a week or so).

The thing I like most about your fan duct design is that it hangs off of the other side of the X carriage - helping keep the relatively heavy hotend (and extruder for a direct drive) from cantilevering off the X rails as much. I'll be using an E3D V6 clone to start off with, but plan to move to a Chimera dual extruder setup once I have things dialed in and I'm prepared to break it all over again.

Jul 17, 2017 - Modified Jul 17, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to petertee

That is a slight issue with the Titan Aero; as compact as it is, it does extend forward and to the sides a fair bit, especially once you add a probe

Imgur

At least the heavy bit is relatively close to the X gantry rods. Looking at your 3D model it uses a pancake stepper right? I can't imagine it'll be too bad. It looks better than even a stock i3 style X gantry, and I assume you're using oversize X rods to keep stiffness up.

One of my first thoughts was to use dual direct extruders (like Wombot uses - I go to their store/factory frequently to buy filament and bits). But their way of solving that problem is to use very stiff and sturdy (read: expensive) fully supported linear rail system so it doesn't really matter. I was going to remix the HC Evo to use the same rail, until I saw its cost per linear metre...

The setup works fine for their large printers - last time I was in there they were showing me a test print from one of their prototypes that had a 2.4m (yes, 2400mm!) Z-height.

do you still have a model of the original online? I need to look at the back of the x carriage to see if my no insert version looks like it will work.

Links to the models are on that make page.

maybe you can change to a piezo sensor something like sandro on fb uses.

Jul 18, 2017 - Modified Jul 18, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to warham

I looked at that sensor a while ago and couldn't see how it would work with a Titan Aero mount but looking again they've added a new mount (https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/product-page/titan-and-titan-aero-piezo-bracket and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2404904) so that might be a good option.

Beta Precision Piezo/Moriquendi E3D Titan and Titan Aero Piezo Z probe Bracket

Very nice model, I think this will be my next printer, I just completed an AM8 build so now I can print the Hypercube Evolution parts with confidence they will be accurate and useable.

who made the model?

Anyone already made a remix for 3-point leveling?

Does it need a remix? I'm hoping to use 3-point levelling but can't think of anything that needs to change.

Jul 16, 2017 - Modified Jul 16, 2017
warham - in reply to TunnelVision

just install 3 supports instead of 4. no?

Never experienced a wobbly 4-legged chair or table? But yes, 3 bed brackets, screws, springs etc.

Is there something like an assembly guide or so? This would be my first CoreXY style printer

youtube

Since our international Facebook group is doing well and growing, we decided to create a group for the german speaking group of people.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/HypercubeEvoDeutsch/

Who is interested, please join :)

1- the brass inserts are cool in theory, but in practice it's very easy to pull them out, e.g: when tightening the screws on the XY joiners (the y bearing holder on the original wasn't a bad design with the bolt and nut assembly), or the one in the middle of the x carriage. There are places where the brass inserts are perfectly fine, such as in the idler pulley holders or the rod end clamps because there's plastic in between them and they're acting as nuts. Where they're doing the job of a tapped hole (e.g: xy joiner) is where they're not so fine, because of the insert-pulling action I described before. In that area, they're also too close to the surface that touches the bearings; when you're inserting them with the soldering iron it's easy to make bumps on that surface, which requires a bit of sanding down in order to fit the bearings. The y axis bearings also give plenty of room for tabs for through-bolts and nuts.

3- The LM10LUU bearings on the Y axis are a good thing, smooth and mostly play-free. This makes me think 10mm rods and long bearings would be perfect for the z axis, since 10mm rods are extremelly stiff

4- the two in line 12mm bearings for the Z axis tend to lock up if the z-bearing holder is not perfectly made, the bearings on the x carriage will also lock up if the x axis rods are not perfectly parallel. Long bearings (eg: LM8LUU) would be good enough for those parts. The x carriage could also use a combination of one long bearing and one short bearing, which would decrease the weight and also have no play or very little play

All in all, as I'm enjoying building this and think it's an excellent design --despite some issues--, I'd like to thank Scott for this great contribution to DIY 3d printers!

working on some of the insert issues. Started with the x carriage bearing clamp. It still needs 2 inserts but thats less than before. I had eliminated those too but realize Scott has some tight tolerance between the optical sensors. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2436180

Hypercube Evolution (NO lame brass inserts Version)8mm X-carriage
by warham
Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

well ultimaker style's printer are quite the same, in ultimaker you have 1 rod on X movements (0 rod on corexy) and 1 rod on Y movements (2 for corexy) so you lose 1 rod on Y but add a rod on X and the corexy on X movements have no rod.

as i said is quite the same

Hmpf M5 Screws and Nuts @[email protected] Is a Version with M4 Screws possible, pls? :D

sure, design it and share it with us please. thank you!

hey. i would like to have the stl. file of scott 3d's dial indicator attachment. he shows it in his video. but i cant find the file for it.....any ideas????

I have a Banggood-special dial indicator on the way so would also be interested in a mount for it, otherwise I'll add it to the to-do list.

Jul 11, 2017 - Modified Jul 11, 2017

Hi, awesome job.
I would like to use some LM12LUU Bearings for the Z axis. Is it possible for you to make that work?
Also i have some SFU1204 400mm Ball Screws laying around and would use them for this build. Can you adjust the z nut part?
I can do this on my own if you could upload the part files.
Thanks in advance.

One of the remixes is a LM12LUU holder for the Z-rods

I liked the simplicity of this design so much that decided to modify XY-mechanics of my Vertex K8400 printer. If interested, follow the development at this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2427810

Vertex K8400 Evolution
by logmett

After 2 sets of 8mm Rods from 2 vendors, and 18 lm8uu bearings from 3 vendors not sliding like they should, I am giving up and going to 10mm rods for the X carriage.

I printed the Y_Carriage_xDia10_LM10UU and went to bring the X carriage with lm10UU bearing holders. There is not one in the file. Does anyone have an X carriage with LM10UU I can use?

Also, should an LM8UU bearing slide down a 8mm rod under it's own weight? Maybe I am just expecting too much. See this video https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=3eJDcDItUWU

no they wont slide under there own weight. not at first at least. they will break in. and after a while they eventually will. i would not recommend using 10mm on the x axis. too heavy... stick with the 8mm. clean the new lm8uu bearings with break cleaner or something like that and re-lube with lithium greese or heavy oil. as long as they are not rough or grinding they will lossen up a bit over some time.

Tech2C has a Youtube video about the effect the added weight of steel X rods can have on print quality, comparing the conventional hardened steel to aluminium and carbon fibre (I don't have a link but it's called something cute like "This is Y"). After viewing that, it reinforced my decision to go with 10mm CF rods and Igus bushings.

Jul 9, 2017 - Modified Jul 9, 2017
rampetampertje - in reply to Phocus

" Also, should an LM8UU bearing slide down a 8mm rod under it's own weight? Maybe I am just expecting too much. See this video"

Yes it is oke for those bearings too slide down under it's own weight(not freefalling) thats only a problem when they also can rotate. They slide but are not build to rotate/spin, when you try to rotate them then you feel a lot of friction Try to stay with 8mm, 10mm is not needed and to heavy.

btw your videolink isn't working!

Hi. I got GM8UU for my skeleton 3D printer. They slide by their own weight at low angles, very nice bearings, but at USD8-13 each one.

Thank you for the response. The bearings are not sliding down under their own weight. I can push them down and they will still stop. This happens when I have the rod in a vertical position. There is a good bit of drag on the x-axis. The lm10uu bearings and the 10mm rod do not have the same sort of drag so I am a bit skeptical of the x-axis. I ordered a 10mm rod and some more lm10uu bearings and they slide more like the x-axis does right now. So I am starting think that the original 10mm bearing is just too loose and my expectations are incorrect. I guess my question is with an 8mm rod and a vertical position should lm8uu bearings automatically slide to the base of the rod or should they hold their position? I am also about to order lm8luu bearings. The YouTube link should be fixed. Can you please try again for me?

https://youtu.be/3eJDcDItUWU

Jul 10, 2017 - Modified Jul 10, 2017
rampetampertje - in reply to Phocus

Your 8mm bearings and rods looks fine to me, nothing wrong. They have minimal space and just enough friction to stay in place. In my opinion perfect fit.

Agree100%. If they fall under their own weight then the clearances are way out and accuracy will suffer. As long as they slide with "ease".

I bought 5 on the chance one was wackadoodle. What I found is 3 moved really smoothly, and the 4rth had a little bit of a click click click as the balls circulated. Whether that is correct and the others are too loose I am not sure but I swapped that one out for the 5th bearing which was smooth like the other 3.

Comments deleted.

Hey Scott, Any chance I can commission you to modify the XY setup to work with 12mm rods? I'm really bad at modifying meshes. Im going to use LM12UU bearings on the Y axis and RJMP-01-12 Bushings for the X with some Carbon Rods. Please let me know before I go ask somewhere else because you are the most familiar with the design.

Hi. I'm looking for 8mm files for z axis. I've already 8mm rods. I'm converting my ultimaker clone to this HCEvo. Because of that i need 8mm rod stl's. I need "Z axis linear rail brackets" and "Z axis bearing holder" for 8mm rods. Thanks for advance.

I just uploaded a remix of the parts for 8mm Z-Axis rails.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2427740

8mm Quad Z-Axis Hypercube Evolution
Comments deleted.

Echoing Vailac, thanks Scott for the design and Tech2C for the inspiration.
I am looking at building a 400mmx400mmx300mm unit. I have a few questions though before I order parts.
1.) For the bed mounting hole spacing (eg MK2 is 210mmx210mm hole spacing on 214x214mm bed size), is the hole spacing from the centre of the hole or the edge?
2.)Would you recommend using 10mm rails for the X and Y axis?
3.) Does the excel calculator work on larger builds (eg my 400x400x300mm)?
3.) Looking at some of the comments, it looks like some people are using direct drive rather than bowden. Am I reading this correct?

Thanks for any advice

About 3 bis :-), if I may:

Direct drive makes retraction easier to tune, and gives more control on flexible filaments, because the distance between the feeding gears and the actual extruder is shorter, but it adds significantly more weight on the printing head. This will result in more inertial force when you speed things up and the additional weight of the stepper motor and gears and everything around can bend the 8mm rod used in the X axis. Considering you are looking for a 400x400mm build surface, I would try to keep the printing head as light as possible since you are way past the 25:1 lenght/diameter rule of thumb ratio for the 8mm rods in the X axis. As this 25:1 rule of thumb follow a square law, it would require 4 rods instead of 2 to make sure it supports a direct drive without bending at 400mm (two rods are kind of OK for 300mm). Another option would be to use larger rods in X axis (and modify the 3D printed head support) but, in both case, the additional weight in the X gantry would tax that Y axis which would then need to be beefed up too, which would double tax the entire frame and so on.

Except if you are planning on printing 400x400mm objects in flexible filament, spend a bit more time tuning the retraction settings and follow Colin Chapman advice: add lightness (It was initially for Lotus race cars, but it also applies to 3D printers).

First, credits where it's due: kudos for this design and to Tech2C who inspired it.

But also, food for thought: the main reason a 3D printer frame has to be rigid is the fact that the frame has to fight the inertia of the printing head and other fast moving components without deforming. But what if it doesn't have to?

A vibration damper that is the softest in X and Y (like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1344305) would let the frame move around instead of resisting the inertia of the head (for a cartesian printer, delta are a quite different in terms of inertia). But the inertia of the printer itself should also be as low as possible where the printer head is, so the printer actually moves around instead of its inertia fighting the inertia of the printing head. And this becomes really interesting is the HyperCube design because the printing head is always at the same place (the top) so you can focus your lightening effort in a single area (not so applicable in a typical Prusa design for example, where the head moves up and down).

So here are a few ideas for a HyperCube Evolution 2 with minimal inertia at the top, where the printing head is, so the printer frame could effortlessly move and tilt on its dampers instead of deforming:

  • Move the X and Y stepper motor to the bottom. I would use 10mm carbon tube extension, because they are torsionaly extremely rigid and very cheap, using 100% infill 3D printed PLA or PC adapters for the stepper motor shaft and the 5mm small rod for the top pulley.
  • Use carbon tube to support the building plate, and use a heating PCB (like Prusa i3 MkII) for a light, flat, rigid surface instead of the much heavier aluminium plus heater plus glass (the building plate spend most of its time at the top, especially with small parts, so its inertia counts even if it is not moving much by itself). A cheaper alternative could be an aluminium plate with multiple support point from a carbon tube frame but calibrating flatness could take a while, although it should be good for a while once calibrated.
  • Use 2020 extrusions for the vertical and top frame so it is lighter at the top, and 2040 (40mm vertical) at the bottom to make sure the top movements are transferred to the bottom and ultimately to the dampers.
  • Another option would be to build the entire top out of 10mm carbon fiber tubes (3 in a triangle for each extrusion) with 3D printed adapters to the bottom 2040 frame to make the top even lighter. 10mm carbon tube are so cheap now that 3 tubes cost less the a single 2020 extrusion. My main concern with that option would be the rigidity of the carbon tube/extrusion interface relying on 3D printed parts. It has to be tested since 2020 extrusion with 3D printed PLA corners are quite rigid.
  • Use +2mm tubes instead of rods (i.e. a 10mm tube instead of a 8mm rod), with plastic bearings as the most common tubes available are aluminium which would be grooved by hardened steel bearing balls (IMHO, carbon tube are not a good idea in the rod application as their diameter varies a bit, which would create variation in friction). LM10UU bearings are almost as common as LM8UU but I'm not sure about their plastic equivalents. A PLA (or ideally POM/Delrin) 3D printed bearing should do the trick

The whole idea of all this is to lower the "internal" acceleration (since it is transferred to the frame movements) so you can increase the initial jerk speed and acceleration/deceleration ramps in the firmware, which have a much important contribution to the overall printing speed than the "maximum" speed for most objects.This wouldn't make the 3D printer inherently more precise, as its precision depends on the precision of the components, but it would (could) allow to maintain its precision at higher speeds since inertia would move the entire frame around instead of deforming the frame.

Note: The rule of thumb in precision movements (<100 microns) is the 25:1 ratio for length vs perpendicular dimension, so a 2020 extrusion is (rule of thumb) good for 500mm while a 8mm rod is only good for around 200mm (surprisingly, the same ratio apply to a mostly empty 2020 extrusion or a solid 8mm rod). However, if the inertia is mostly converted in the entire frame moving around instead of the frame fighting it, I think a 600mm frame or more using 2020 shouldn't be a problem, especially if using high rigidity aluminium like T6.

Well, that was a bit long for a comment and that's all for now. Don't ask me to test my theory myself because, as much as physics and mechanics are natural to me, I definitely suck at CAD design. I just hope it inspires someone to build, test and share a HyperCube Evolution 2 based on principles I haven't seen so far in 3D printers.

MH3000 vibration damping feet
by BDan

Hi Scott! I'm truly amazed with your desing. I saw you've added an xls file for calculating the correct extrusion, rails and lead screws sizes, however, would you mind sharing the sizes you used in the case of dual Z axis version? I'm pretty new on this and I'm affraid screwing it up using the spreadsheet :). Thanks a lot!

On the Excel file just click the drop down menu for double z instead of single and it will give you the answers you seek. :-)

I've just found out there's another xls file different from the one I got... =). Thanks a lot dude!

What is the max length of the Z axis lead screw for the 300mm build volume? The vendor I found only sells 320mm and 350mm integrated lead screw motors, I wonder which one of these will fit the best.

can you please upload a step file to Thingiverse? I know the facebook group has it but i would like to see it downloadable from here if possible

Inventor files are now on thingiverse.

Brilliant!

I'm planning to do a mix mash between the original and this one, build one from my prusa then start to do.some of the upgrades you have done! All with 2020 as I have that spare

Now that I'm back from more work travel I have put up the Inventor CAD files on Thingiverse. I hope this helps everyone wanting to remix and improve the HyperCube Evolution. Please note that this is the v1.0 files as later versions were not swapped into the assembly. Please let me know if you need anything more.

https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3868523

I'm travelling again next week so answers will be a little delayed. Sorry.

BTW great work on all the HyperCubes being born! Great to see and also peoples ideas for improvements.

There is good healthy discussion about the design and engineering behind it. Some points to make sure things go smoothly.

  1. Make sure the parts fit without force. For example the Z bearing holders must be a neat fit on the 2020 extrusions. If you are forcing them to fit then the part will be distored and the bearings will probably bind on the linear rails.

  2. Keep the Z rails as close to each other as practical. Linear guide systems should have in plane moment loads minimised, again to ensure smooth motion.

  3. Have FUN!

If you get a minute, can you tell me if the bearings are supposed to do this? https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=3eJDcDItUWU

I am going to use 10mm X rail because I found parts I had that work because of the non sliding you see in the video above. Do you have an X carriage with lm10uu bearing holders?

Is there a BOM just for the printed parts? I am trying to figure out which parts I need to print and how many, but I can't seem to find that anywhere. Looking to build this thing with the dual Z upgrade. Any help would be great. Thanks!

facebook group files section

Ir you revise the configuration dile you get all the info ganó you need

Awesome, Thanks!

I have started my Hypercube. I am attempting to make a how to video as well for everyone here.

I could use some help though. 2 things.

Has anyone figure out the difference of the bed bracket files. I understand the numbers are angles, but can someone tell me the significance of them before I print all of them and test?
Also, I don't see files for an extruder here? is there a common extruder that is used that will mount to the 30x30?

bed bracket numbers are bracket lengths. look at the picture on the right of the spreadsheet. use the longest bracket you can.

I understand the numbers are angles

Was that a typo? They're offsets as shown in the drawing in the spreadsheet.

Nope, It was me not understanding. I will go back to the spreadsheet look again, I seem to have missed this.

Jun 30, 2017 - Modified Jun 30, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to Phocus

For a 30mm offset:
Imgur

It might help to think about the interaction between mounting hole spacing, bed bracket offset and bed frame y extrusion length (assuming you're using 20x20 for the bed frame):

y_bed_frame_extrusion_length = y_mounting_hole_hole_spacing - 2 * 20 - 2 * bed_bracket_offset

e.g. for 314mm hole spacing and 30mm bed bracket offset:

y_bed_frame_extrusion_length = 314 - 2 * 30 -2 * 20 = 214mm

(Markdown is/was stealing my multiply symbols!)

Or, if you're in the situation where you've ordered extrusions before knowing the final build platform dimensions (fairly common probably):

bed_bracket_offset = (y_mounting_hole_hole_spacing - y_bed_frame_extrusion_length - 2 * 20) / 2

Or chop a bit off the y bed frame extrusions - it wouldn't hurt to order a couple of spare lengths of 2020 as its so cheap.

I know there are slotted parts but it would be cool if there were 1 mm increment versions between 40 and 45

Jun 30, 2017 - Modified Jun 30, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to warham

It should be possible to generate them, and others from 15mm up, with a script... I'll look into it.

And here it is, a big bag of bed brackets https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2412398

Bed Brackets for HyperCube Evolution in 0.5mm Increments

Any chance of making a Z end stop and flag for those that dont need to use a bed level sensor?

Proximity sensor can also be used as a normal end stop... just keep the ABL disable......

I am not installing a proximity sensor on this printer

well, i think no one will made a support for a mechanical endstop. Proximity cost as a mechanical one, so try to find something on thingiverse if you can't do it (consider to make the tinkercad tutorial to design simple things yourself).

You can use a support from another project that use 3030 or 4040 slot

@SCOTT_3D
Hey,
Thanks for the awesome design :)

In one of your youtube videos you said that you would upload a modified X-carriage for IGUS bearings. I cannot find this file. Could you please send me a link?

any news for this i would like to have it toooo thanks

What's the estimated total price if you had to buy everything?

For my parts list I did last night out came out to about $380. $100 of that was shipping so your mileage may vary.

Hi @SCOTT_3D, can you please add the Y Endstop flag for a 10mm rod?

Thanks!

Is the 400w 24v PSU enough? The heat bed on it's own consumes 360 watts, I don't think 40 watts is enough to drive all the other components.

I see some have used 2 power supplies - one for the heat bed and a second for the other needs, save you the cost of a 600W one

I was thinking exactly the same, yesterday I powered up the bed for the first time and it consumes about 420w... Now I'm looking for a 600w...

Is there a video how to assemble the hotend-holder? ( I didn't find one)

Or can anybody tell me how to do?

Scott
Great work. I am preparing to build one, 300 mm cubic build volume. It seems nearly obvious that the Double Z axis is the way to go from all the experimentation that you and Tech2C have done.

However as this design is all about stiffness and improved quality, I have been looking at the Z linear rails and it seems to me that 4 12mm linear rails are excessive. Once the second Z axis is used that controls rotation around the Y axis, and then there are no cantilever static loads around X axis.

So just 2 x 12 mm widely spaced Z linear rods would be sufficient stiff to control for "near perfect" X and Z axes alignment under vibration loads.

Of course everything is flexible and so I am still considering the issues of Z axis bearing tolerances, wondering whether to do some column stiffness analysis of rigid vs "flexible" Z rail mounts, and vs 400 vs 500mm Z rail length - in the context of how accurate can we assemble these of course. My gut feel is all that analysis would be overkill.

I feel adding the second Z axis provides effectively all the observable improvement for high quality hobby-grade machines, and going from 2 to 4 Z rails is negligible. The remaining decision is then where to put them and reducing them to 400, or staying at 500 and increasing the length of the Z axis bearing holders if bearing preload is not possible and bearing slop is an issue.

My thoughts.

I like your line of thought.... You mean to have 2 z axys lead screws, one each side, and only two linear rods, both with one of the lead screws?

Fells ok mechanically and cuts a lot of costs.

Yes, nearly. The 2 Z lead screws, if on each side, provide

  • precise horizontal location around Y axis, and
  • provide a central balance support position (no cantilever) making it simple to have a bed design that is stable around the X axis.

The objective for the Z linear rods is to keep the bed horizontal (X and Y axes stability) and fixed in the X Y directions (including Z rotational stability) and only 2 are required

  • 2 big rigid rods with rigid connection to the 3030 frame, well spaced.

The linear bearings on the Z linear rods also provide location around both the X and Y axis (providing redundancy around the Y axis)
Depending on accuracy and tolerances of everything the need is to:

  • maximise the spacing of the Z linear bearings
    noting lots of discussion on tolerances and play and friction and alignment
    suggests some ideas for tweaking bearing holders to improve alignment and slight preload to overcome play, if an issue
  • providing unidirectional flexibility to remove the Y axis rotational redundancy (purely a purist's theoretical view, not suggest here)

Any choice is possible for the linear rods:

  • random but widely spaced if you are artistic and like asymmetry, or
  • 2 on one side
  • 1 on each side, not necessarily close to the lead screws
  • 2 on the rear, the same as the location for the single Z lead screw, perhaps more widely spaced
    avoiding the need for the extra frame under each Y rail introduced by Scott for the double Z option.

The position of the Z linear rods will change the Y frame dimension, I think, which of course also depends on the hot end and extruder chosen. The bed design is a factor also.

I want to get the frame size and configuration as good as I can for my purposes as that is one thing I don't want to revisit later as I learn along the way.

I am modifying (slightly) Scott's configuration spreadsheet for my purposes as I intuitively like the Titan Aero, (others have parts on Thingiverse for that, thanks all) so I am understanding the spreadsheet and its dependence on Z rod positions and extrude types.

I cannot imagine any situation where 4 Z rods are a good idea. If you want stiffness just make them bigger and mount them well and use good bearings.

Hope this clarifies - simplicity with an imaginary view of perfection for a budget home piece of equipment.

At this stage I am preferring 2 on the rear, of maximum length 500mm (no Y carriage clearance constraint) with maximum spacing of Z linear bearings but I need to check on clearance / play tolerances so see if I am overdoing this.

If you ever build the Evolution, you will know, why there are 4 Z-rods.
And the 4 12mm rods are definately NOT overkill. They make sure, that the bed is a rock solid construction, that does not bend, twist or otherwise move, where it should not move, except up and down. The construction is so rigid, that you can move the bed up and down with connecting only ONE of the motors (I actually did that for testing purposes).
If you look into Scotts construction carefully, you can see, that he put a lot of thoughts into this and that everything has a reason, why its is build like this and not otherways.
When you see the flimsy and whacky bed constructions of some other printers, you know why they always have issues with bed leveling, wobbling and such. NOT with the EVO. I leveled my EVO only ONCE after I finished building it. Now the EVO is printing for some 2 months now WITHOUT any bed leveling at all.
And still prints like a charm.
So believe me, you rather go with an "overkill" (which it isnt) construction like ours, than always fuddle with a whacky bed.
I would alway suggest, that you first build the EVO with the original design and if you then still see needs for "improvement", then go ahead. Of course you are free to build however you like, but maybe you give it a thought, since I already have a working EVO for some time now, I have built 2 other printers before, and the EVO is BY FAR the best

Hi Biggsis,
I was wondering is there such a thing as a wiring diagram, I'm not to hot with wiring, and a diagram would be a great help.

Trying to solve the issue with the fact that I already bought all the extrusions for the standard dual Z :D

I think I'll only remove the linear guides of one side.

Move them to the back means the need of a at least one new 3030 extrusion and maybe a new set of 2020s....

I have just sketched up moving them to the back and the details don't look elegant, the bed more complicated and a few printed parts to redesign. Just removing one side is easily the best practical variation to Scotts design

Really like your idea... Two linear rods at the rear with two lead screws at the sides..... hummmmmmmmmm I"ll play it with my Inventor assembly :D Wait a minute!

If wish I knew enough pseudo-engineering lingo to get involved in these "Can I make it out of strawberry jam?" discussions.

Can somebody tell me how much filament (grams?) I need to print all parts? Thanks!

For the DUAL-Z version you will need approx. 600 grams including everything.

Heavy duty upper rod holders brackets, dual screw and added a slot ridge to stop rotation during alignment. one of the guys int he fb group made them for me.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/862003513952930/

Anibody has designed año IDEX direct solución for Hypercube?

Hello. My question can be a little stupid but i cant find the information.

im building my printer from scracht. No parts or anything

  1. What extruder i need to buy?
  2. How i decide the size of the bed bracket?
  3. How i decide the size of the shafts?
  4. Any other part not listed in the buy or build list that i need to know about to complete my project?
  1. You are free as long as it's a bowden configuration
  2. I've chosen the 45mm version and adopted to 27.5mm for my bed
  3. depends on your buildvolume (bigger=> thicker) but your inertia will increase with thicker rods
  4. electronics, power supply, hotend, feet some m3 nuts (as far is I'm aware of)

if you look on youtube, scott 3d has videos about the Evolution and with the files there is an excel file that helps with frame size and rod sizes.

Has anyone made an optical sensor holder and flag for the Z axis? I am not going to use the probe sensor.

Did you find this? I need it as well.

Yes and no. On facebook a guy made one but he is using a custom bed and adjustable flag. I got his sensor holder which is just a simple cube block. I will probably just design something and toss it on my thingy page

Hi Scott
Awesome build and I am looking forward to trying to make one myself
Woud you be willing to share the Inventor files?
Cheers
Bruce

Does anyone else have the inventor files for this build?

Cheers
Bruce

Any chance to get an X Carriage and the XY joiners that use 10mm rods instead of 8?

I suspect that modifying the X Carriage for LM10UUs isn't trivial

Imgur

I guess it would just be the carriage that needs updating. Am I correct in remembering that the original Hypercube carriage would mount on here?

they are as close as the can be :(

Jun 20, 2017 - Modified Jun 20, 2017

i am in the middle of doing the double z axis...for some reason i keep getting twisting and bindign , cant get a smooth motion ...using 4 12mm rods on the corners and then 2 2-start t10s for the lead screws to rais my 500x 500 bed.

put the 4 12mm rods as close to the t10 screws as possible

Jun 20, 2017 - Modified Jun 20, 2017

Hey Scott! This looks spectacular. I can't wait to build it but am still waiting for delivery of my Anet A8. This build has made quite an impact on "Components Explorer" - your BOM takes up 2/3 of their 3030 profile details (with links to every part).

Great design! Do you think it would work with an e3d chimera?

check henris page or facebook or on other pages here, its probably already made.

With a suitably modified extruder mount I do not see why not.

Hi Scott, Firstly I'd like to say I love your design, especially the X carriage. I'd like to use it on my HyperCube, so, I was wondering if your X rods were the same spacing as those on the HyperCube

Hi, I do not think they are the same spacing as I based them on the Prusa i3 spacing.

Ok, thanks

Hey
I would be happy if you could also upload parts to fore the 3030 extrusion Bed chassis
Since in my country it is really hard to find 2020 extrusion

HELLO SCOTT ,Hello, I finished this printer, but problems have been unable to continue, the printer is remote feed, but feeding machine on top middle position, because the distance is relatively long, try too hard, especially easy to plug. Who has a better solution?. Thank you

try to translate again or just use your own language and wait for someone from your country. no way for me to undestand what you are asking for.

I'm sure, there are some people that talk your language here :)

I'am sorry ,my English is poor, that words was translated by BAIDU 打印机的打印半径300mm 较大。远程进料不通畅,打印头总是堵。
it is more bigger than others 3d printer ,x,z,z all is 300mm. I used the nozzle size 0.4mm and filament dia 1.75mm,when the printer is printing , the filament is unsmooth,the nozzle is is clogge always, test a lots of ways,I can not change .

Hi Chenfm

So if I understand it correctly, from your original post and the current one your nozzle is either getting clogged or not fed enough filament.

Things to check:

Print Temperature, are you printing too low for the material you are working with? If so it might not be melting fast enough for the bowden extruder to be able to push it through.

Nozzle Clog, Is the nozzle clogged with anything? Do you have a spare nozzle you can quickly swap too? If not, I would try cleaning it out or forcing some filament through at high temperatures and then doing a pull.

Is your bowden extruder gripping the filament too tight or not tight enough? Does it look like it's grinding it up or not even touching it? I would adjust the tension to make sure it's perfect.

Is the bowden extruder simply under extruding either because of the slicer being misconfigured or because of the printer not being configured correctly?

thanks RDBRULZ ,it works fine.

Is it possible that for the 2020 L-brackets for the bed are missing in the parts list?

You could probably use them but the Z_Axis_Bearing_Holders do the job that corner or L-brackets would do.

is there any advice in order to correctly mount the frame? i want to get it well mounted and equilibrated.

Jun 17, 2017 - Modified Jun 18, 2017

Just incase people need it here it a link for the HyperCube Evolution in a google sheets format, ( some of the vlookup is different so had to edit it)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17ITakn9my9-51lXOf7maWjUoSWivcAo-OPjlB7SPPgM/edit?usp=sharing

Hi would it be possible to produce an x carriage/clamp to take 18mm probe?

Jun 16, 2017 - Modified Jun 16, 2017

I'm confused...

I have installed the x/y gantry first.
Now I'm in the process of assembling the Z brackets.
There are 2 sets of Z axis linear rail brackets.
1 set of left and right marked (as I'm assuming "version") 1.0.
And another set marked left right double z 1.1.

I've asked in this group if there were instructions other than the videos (which do not show any step by step assembly) on measurements and which parts go where, but I didn't get an answer. So I've been relying on pictures and pausing videos to see exactly what parts go where.

With that, I see that the brackets marked "double z 1.1" are being installed at the top and the other set on the bottom. But it's impossible to tighten the top bracket screw with the Y gantry and top Y t slot rail in the way.

If I install the 1.0 bracket on the top it'll be a piece of cake. Which means I'll need to ditch the 1.1 brackets all together and print more of the smaller 1.0 brackets. But I'm a stickler to stick with the design and I'm sure Scott made the larger brackets for the top for good reason.

Please, someone tell me what I'm missing.

And again, is there a one stop shop for details on assembling this beautiful machine?
You can't rely on Tech2C's detailed videos for assembly because the parts are different and his design is a single zed axis.

If not, I'm talking myself into making a video series to help out guys like myself in assembling this thing.

Thank you in advance. :-)

For the double Z you will definately need the tall brackets so that you have full Z travel. A ball ended hex key should do the trick to tighten those screws which go in from the top.

Unfortunately no complete build instructions. Just my 7 videos that I did during the build of the dual Z version at the moment. Have you found those videos? Which part of the assembly are you having difficulty with?

Yes, Tech2C's hypercube is a definately a different build all together.

Scott, thank you so much for replying!

You told me what I needed to know.
Don't ditch the 1.1 brackets, and go find a different hex driver.

And while I've got your attention, thank you for such an incredible design! I can't wait to hit the print button on this thing!

maybe take a picture and post it with your question in the facebook group.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/

Thanks buddy,

But I'm not on Facebook.

Hi, i'm a new user.
I would like to built my first 3d printer and I think "hypercube Evolution" is the best for that.
But i have a question ...How to have the PLA connecting parts ?
Can someone make it to me ?
thansk for your answers
Stephane
French guy with bad english

Thank you for all the answers

well, i think the best way is to ask on the facebook page or the discussion group to meet a french friend :D

Comments deleted.

45mm table bracket with slotted 3mm hole added to the facebook group files for those that need one.

Hi, sorry for the delay. 40mm bed bracket now on Thingiverse.

Thank you Sir~!

Other than Scott's videos, is there a one stop shop for assembly information such as measurements when fastening the printed parts to the frame?
Thanks in advance for any responses.

Comments deleted.

Hi, thanks for good idea and great work! I want use linear rail slide+MGN12H in HyperCube Evolution. Can you send me your solidworks files for next some changes?

If you visit the Facebook group there is a download of the complete parts list in solidworks and STEP format.

Thank you!

keep an eye out on amazon, probably ebay too, PDtech will start selling cut 3030 extrusion, 3mm build plates, already sells the rods. (usa)

Jun 13, 2017 - Modified Jun 13, 2017

hi, thanks for sharing this awesome design.
I was thinking to convert my anet a8 to this setup, but i have one question. The parts that are seen in the video are made with a machine like this? because i see some small ringing in circles (yellow parts) but a lot of z banding in the grey parts.

I printed all the parts for the Hypercube EVO on my A8 using PETG (some even in PLA) and the result was pretty good. So no worries :)
And i did not use ANY support for the prints.

Thank your guys excelent job! And I want to try PETG too, notice you have tried, could you provide the setting of infill density / layer thickness / print speed for ref.
By the way, how is the horizontal hanging if you do not use ANY support? Thanks

ty for the response,now i am convinced! i am going to do the transformation A8 -> Hypercube EVO

I will also convert my Anet A8 to HCEVO. I'm planning to reuse the steppers, heat bed, mainboard, psu and end stops. Is this possible, or do we need to order all electronics specified in the BOM?

What quantity and lengths are needed for the M3 screws? I'm thinking of buying another kit than the one specified in the BOM.

Yes, you need a lot (around 20) of 25mm M3 as well as some shorter, I bought a kit from Amazon and was sufficient.

Okey thanks!

Is there a more accurate threaded rod besides t8 that can offer better resolution?

You can buy T8 in different lead/pitches which offer higher resolution

thank you so much for taking the time to do this build. i am in the midst of making a 24 x24x 48 build.
yes you read that right. using 30mm extrusion. i initally bought t8 lead screw..but am upgrading to t10 after seeing your build..
im doing dual lead screws..and 4 linear rails for zed :P. again thank you.

Minsk

Thanks. Hope the build works out well.

Hi,

I'm pretty sure somebody already made a nice BOM/Excelsheet for this project for getting an overview, calculating costs and tracking/comparing the shops/websites for the parts. If you want to share yours I would really appreciate it, due to my ongoing plans building my own Evolution in the next couple of months and therefore constant comparison of the different setups/changes some people made here in the comment section.

How many of the M5 Fastener Stuff is really needed? I have the opportunity to buy them in single pieces. The BOM shows 100pcs packages.

Jun 12, 2017 - Modified Jun 12, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to Barracdil

I didn't count them all but I reckon you'd use most of the 100 M5 x 10 or 12 button head screws.

These all use them to attach to the frame: XY motor mounts, corner brackets, idler mounts, end stops, Z shaft mounts (top), Z shaft mounts (bottom), Z motor mount. Maybe more.

Jun 12, 2017 - Modified Jun 12, 2017

any chance adding of your 40mm hot bed bracket or even better a slotted version of the 45?

I have 2 questions.

  1. Has anyone found a good stepper motor with 330mm exposed lead screw? If I use 500mm Lead screw will it just stick out of the top and not hurt anything?

  2. Has anyone considered adding a second "extruder" , but instead use a laser for laser cutting stuff? When you slice the object you would only slice one layer? Is this even possible?
Jun 12, 2017 - Modified Jun 12, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to Phocus

I have ordered the 2 x the standard 300mm integrated lead screw motors plus 2 x 400mm lead screws and plan to swap them.

Whether 500mm lead screws would work depends on your Z travel (see the config spreadsheet). If you have chosen 300mm Z travel then 500mm is too long as they will hit the X shafts.

Imgur

Thank you!

The question I have: What is the benefit of using a motor with integrated lead screw? From what I can see they are much more expensive than buying a typical Nema 17 Motor and using a coupler and a additional lead screw?

More expensive yes, but you gain some Z-travel and eliminate a potential source of backlash in the flexible coupler.

Hi I ended up getting this stepper motor with a 324mm integrated screw. It's the closest i could find that would give me a full 300mm usable Z axis travel according to Scott3D's instructions.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-linear-stepper-motor-NEMA17-42mm-stepper-motor-42mm-42mm-34mm-Tr8-pitch2mm-with-CE/32310661236.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.6gmiJ2

Hi Scott great work look nice will change my plans for building a hybercube in to build this version instead. I have a question i have the alu profile 2020 for the hypercube but your design is for 3030 for the frame so i assume that fitting for the y and x stepper motor and for the Pulleys wont fit a frame built of 2020 .
Are there any chans you could proved stl:s for your design that will fit a 2020 frame ?
/David

just dont try.. thing will vibrate off the table in 2020 profile

Will the brass inserts work for ABS parts as well? Besides thank you for your awesome work!!

Hi, they work great in ABS as well. I have used them in my earlier versions which were printed in ABS. I move to PETG as I always had trouble with ABS warping.

Thanks for the answer! We're building 3 of your designs right now. Printing ABS in a closed chamber gets rid of all the problems. 95°C for the bed works beautifully. If everything works as expected I will write a CE certificate for the printer.

Hello Scott, I'm Dominique, (DJAC1974), I'm french, sorry for my English.
I've a tobeca 2 with two extruders (200x200x250).
I like the design, very very good work Scott, I've printed parts since yesterday to create a 300x300x500 3D printer.
I've a few questions:

  • Where do you buy a new linear guide to replace LM8UU and LM10UU?
  • I want to insert the titan extruder (E3D) and 3dtouch sensor. Can you please send the drawing 3d (inventor or solidworks) of the machine?
  • On vidéo, I see use the RADDS v1.5 card, switch optical endstop is compatible with this card or it necessary add resistor (ohm?; and power W)?

Advance thank you very much for the answers.

I will post pictures later, when this projet to be more advance.

Long continuation at Hypercube Evolution.

Hi, your english is much better than my French. I purchased all of my parts from Aliexpress (China). Looks like a few people are wanting to use the Titan. I thing Bigsis has greated a mount for this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218

I have not yet tried optical end stops with the RADDS. On my list of things to do as I complete the software.

Looking forward to another HyperCube Evolution printing..

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis
Comments deleted.

Hi I love your project.I would like to make 800x800x800mm build area.do you have some plans how to I do that? What rod I have toa use?little big? Thanks.

use the excel file and make your lead screws around 815

Jun 10, 2017 - Modified Jun 10, 2017

I am starting to source my parts for today and build this. I have a prusa i3 china kit I have heavily modified and now I need something more solid.

I am familiar with the ramps/arudino setup, but I wanted to move to something a bit faster and more robust. I have 3 questions.

  1. Has anyone tried this with an authentic smoothie board?
  2. Do you know if smoothie board can support the 24 volts?
  3. Is there something better than smoothie?

Also +1 for another group not on facebook.
Also +1 for local source parts in the Seattle area.

Hi,

I bought a mks sbase v1.3 (which is a clone of the original smoothieboard). I can tell you the results as soon as the delivery arrives.
Yes it should work with 24V

+1 for the group

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-evo

Is the time for a group also to keep clean the comments :D

Enjoy

Why we need a second group besides the Facebook group? Of course everyone is free to do whatever, just maybe is better to centralize the discussions there. JM2C

Not everyone uses or wants to use Facebook.

Jun 10, 2017 - Modified Jun 10, 2017
Maratine - in reply to ThatPlayer

^ What he said.

I have taken delivery of most of the mechanical components and am in the process of modifying the y and z printed parts to accept 8mm linear rails (and LM8LUU bearings) instead of the 10 and 12 Scott has used. I am only doing this for the dual z version as I feel the single needs the 12mm rails due to the cantilevered loads. I must admit converting the stl files is a tedious process.

I ordered this lead screw : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RepRap-3D-Printer-THSL-300-8D-Lead-Screw-Dia-8MM-Thread-8mm-Length-300mm-with-Copper/32435304660.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.dzdDkc

It´s 500mm long so build travel distance on Z axe will be 470mm ?
So I will buy linear guides and extrusions with values for X-300mm, Y-300mm and Z-470mm.
Because I think the nut on the lead screw will be about 3cm high so Z travel could be 470mm.

Thanks
All the best

Lukas

Jun 7, 2017 - Modified Jun 7, 2017
warham - in reply to lkvapil

In my build 30mm was too much. I would lower that to 10 or 15. Scotts 30mm is when there is no coupler. I suggest a Z in the area of around 485.

Also what bed will you use? if you are using the bed from the excel sheet, note that the bed is actually 328mm.

What is the best place to get the aluminum extrusions in the Seattle area, or just the Pacific Northwest in general?

i use tnutz.com they have pretty much everything and good prices

Did you find a place in the Seattle area? I am in lower Queen Anne. I just started looking to source my parts today.

Tacoma Screw maybe?

2nd what Warham said. Misumi all the way.

misumi online is good

Jun 5, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017

Scott
I have found there is an issue with the configurator for people that are using a coupler between the stepper and lead screw.
Of course it will extend the lead screw 10-15 cm ish. A bit of a duh moment I wish I had realized before hand.
So either the lead screw needs to be shorter or the frame and z rod guides need to be that much longer.

Since I already have the parts in order to get the design to continue to work I have to flip the lower Z rod clamps upside down otherwise the z rods will not reach them.

A note in the excel file or a yes/no switch to are you using flex couplers to compensate lengths might be a good idea.

Yes, if using a coupler then some extra z height will be required to compensate for them. Good idea for the configurator. Will put it on the to do list.

What lengths did you get? I'm about to order parts myself.

I believe the configurator doesn't say mention the length of the leadscrews at all, just the description says z travel + 30mm.

Jun 6, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017
warham - in reply to ThatPlayer

This is only if you will be using a coupler, if you use a stepper with a lead screw built in such as Scott used the excel file is fine.

If you use a coupler between the stepper and lead screw you may run into trouble.
if your building a standard frame its going to cause problems because the frame and Z rods will be too short.
if you add 15-20cm to the corner pillars as well as the Z rods I believe you will be ok.
Double check my logic on that.
Since I am building an extra tall printer I made the corner pillars longer than they need to be so I am ok there, but my Z rods are about 10-20cm too short.
I am not at home to get an exact shortcoming measurement but it was at least 10cm.
Basically, however long your lead screw was extended because of the coupler the pillars and Z rods need to be extended also. https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761edd5edf41a5b4aa05?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfBDChyIfTurmcNADjvc58PnJjW1EcRg3TVt1eBgAVghrPnF1Tj4YeFEYdSCoPhU%2BCNjw3wiodUlxcRUI%2BAh4GgBXABta8L4oErT1CBUOzo7OZM5CiBcs2wgR0Yhy3yancbkysZHxRGwrJpbU9q7OntE%2BtsHvedGJmCnuCNmo%2BcXRaD4XWNzoSXPIiqgVdttPSsqkkAR-ogEMAALogoA

Jun 6, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017
ThatPlayer - in reply to warham

I believe the specs of the stepper motor should have the length of the shaft. The coupler itself should not add any height to the z-axis setup I believe. The stepper motor I am looking into buying says 20mm, so I think I will extend my Z-axis configuration by 20mm? (300mm + 20mm) and then use a 330 (300mm + the 30mm it says to add) sound okay?

Or are we ignoring the 30mm ? Because that one confuses me. That model seems to have a 300mm leadscrew

Actually looking at the amazing model some more, wouldn't you just lose some spacing at the bottom of the printer ? (You'd run into the coupler). I do not think the extra length of the leadscrew will hit anything. According to the model there is 58mm space in between, and you will just lose some extra space at the bottom.

https://i.imgur.com/p5vnMti.png

Jun 6, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017
warham - in reply to ThatPlayer

If your coupler allows the lead screw and motor shaft to touch then you only need to account for the length of the motor shaft. If not then it seems you are looking at the motor shaft length plus the gap in the coupler between the shaft and lead screw. Mine has a gap of around 1cm which is enough to not allow the Z rods to reach the lower clamps without turning them upside down. I cant lower the upper rails to accommodate because the lead screw will stick up too high at that point. So I suggest Z height plus maybe 15mm ish lead screw but not 30mm.
If the gap in the model is correct there should be room to play since the shaft and the coupler should eat up around 30mm. My build only has a few mm to play with though.

Do you mean 15mm or 15cm? 15cm seems like alot.

Jun 6, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017
warham - in reply to ThatPlayer
whups   MM.     Hopefully someone else will chime in using couplers.  I spoke to Bigsis, he said he ran into the problem but was able to lower the upper crossmembers a little to compensate.

I'm not sure if its bad form to do this before I even build the printer, but I drew it and people asked, so here is my attempt at a BLTouch Mount that does not require and modifications of Scott_3D's original carrier design. Of course I'll change it based on someone trying it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2366952

Hypercube Evolution Additions/Mods
by jfint

This is now tested by 1 whole person, lol.

Yes but that one person is a Sith Lord so that is worth at least two people :-)

Is there ever really a need for a sensor? Seems like just extra weight. If the bed is so warped that it creates problems its time to get a new bed, imo

Jun 5, 2017 - Modified Jun 10, 2017

Suggest ordering m6x12mm screws and hammer nuts for frame assembly or m5x12mm screws for the corner brackets........ if you are using misumi extrusion its easier to assemble than 10mm because of the channel depth.

Thank you very much for your design! It is perfect!

Comments deleted.

What is the layer resolution? Can you give information.

For TR8
4mm/revolution
200steps per revolution
32 Microstepping (DRV8825)

4/(200*32) = 625nm (theoretically)

Thanks for the work!
Do you think I can use this kind of extrusuion? Its the only thing avaible in germany for a fair price:
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170603/t3ampfv5.jpg

Jun 3, 2017 - Modified Jun 3, 2017
Awakened - in reply to PW-Sys

Wow that's a good price! I was just looking at ebay.de :) Danke!

For those who were asking for the Repetier configuration file I have finally uploaded it. Sorry for the delay..

Wow. You have done an incredible job in making it so easy for people to understand and build this machine.

THANK YOU!

PS - I'd love to tip you, but you don't have the feature activated on your account.

Hi, Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.

FYI I have now linked a paypal account with Thingiverse.

How much approximately it cost?

$250 for hardware (springs, bed, pulleys, bearings, belts, etc). $250 for the extrusions, bolts, hammered nuts, internal brackets, etc, plus the cost of the hot end, ramps board, steppers, power supply (about $150). So realistically you are looking at about $650 (including shipping and taxes).

Cost depends greatly on the source and type of components you use. I would think between $300 - $600 depending on your selection. The extrusions are costing around $100 depending on where you get them.

I suggest ordering as much as possible from china, extra even... a bag of 100 screws might be about $8 shipped where as locally 1 screw might be $0.48.
I probably spent $100 on a small amount hardware that I missed ordering from china because I didn't want to wait for another shipment. This kind of goes without saying but it bit me in the tail.

Alright, most of the parts have come in but enough to the point where I can start building. Alot of people have messaged me and I think I am going to stream the build. I rented some equipment and we will try this. I have never done this sort of thing before and have never built a 3D Printer so this could go very well or very bad :D. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWI1LZf7RHA This will be the link for the stream.

Jun 2, 2017 - Modified Jun 2, 2017

So, finally I found time to make a mount for the E3D Chimera/Cyclops Dual Extruder hotends.

Get it here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis

Are you planning on this upgrade for your hypercube? I was thinking of going the Y dual fillament feed.

Yes, I ordered the Chimera ( a clone ) and I will definately try that out. Maybe I try the Y dual later, for the moment I would like to have a clear color distinction and I am not sure, that will work with that Y thing. But I am always willing to experiment :)

Yes, having to use a colour change tower is a pain and wastes fillament. What about ooze with the dual extruder through?

what about "6in1 Flux Capacitor" from IEC? same size of a j-head just the triple Y part is a bit bigger....

I will try to fight the ooze with a constant slow, but steady retraction on the head that is not printing. That is the recommendation of the E3D guys. If the clone only works halfways good, I am going for the original from E3D to see how that is.

How do you configure that feature?

Simplify3D has 2 script tabs : Retraction script and ToolChange Script.

I will have to experiment with these. I will let you know, when I have it here and start printint DUAL :)

Pretty complete BOM, but can anyone point me at what all the round rods are? I would be look at the double Z-axis version. Also...what about a list of parts that make up the Hot end? I don't have a prusa i3 to convert, and there are many options over there at E3D, this would include the fans and whatever else is needed. I've been using 3d printers for about a year now at work, but I haven't built one yet.

Jun 2, 2017 - Modified Jun 2, 2017
SCOTT_3D - in reply to jfint

I would recommend buying a complete hotend kit from E3D. They include all the parts you need. Just choose whether you want to go for 3mm or 1.75mm versions, and 12v or 24v.

For me, I use 1.75mm filament and run everything on 24V except for the fans.

I have been lucky with rods from China, but I did not by them from random places. I purchased from sellers that specialise in linear motion products. Worth spending a bit more to get what you expect.

SCOTT_3D,

Please could you tell witch seller you got the rods? Are those of the BOM links?

Thank you!

Thank you! Unfortunately they do not send to Brazil :D

And thank you for the BOM spreadsheet! I was starting mine taking notes from the videos and photos and yours is just perfect!

I found some local dealers for the rods, bearings and extrusion and I am just waiting for the prices - even if they are a title more expensive than China I will have the advantage of warranty and sure quality and avoiding excessive importation taxes we have here. But I am expecting much higher prices.... So I would love to have a good reference for a Chinese dealer for the rods.

I just realized that Scott's BOM does not have the link for the Rods.

pd tech is also on amazon, dunno if amazon is also in brazil.

Jun 4, 2017 - Modified Jun 4, 2017
jfint - in reply to brunofporto

Try contacting them, they are also on ebay, where its easier to find the "contact" link., I have not talked to him personally, but I have been told he is very reasonalbe to deal with and might be willing to ship if you talk to him.

Please take my BOM with the grain of salt required, as its put together by someone who hasn't actually built anything. I am updating it as I learn things, for instance the smoothieboard brain that I found refferenced on the facebook group, with a config file posted there.

I'm also thinking it will be really easy to draw a mount for the BLTouch that just clamps in where the inductive sensor is mounted.

I'm still looking for some of the really small parts and playing with 3D models to figure out how its built before I do a bunch of ordering.

That is even greater as it seems we are at the same boat (I'm not sure if this expression will have the same cultural meaning in English). But I am someone who hasn't actually built anything too and trying to digest all information before start buying stuff.

Thank you for your advice!!!

Jun 2, 2017 - Modified Jun 2, 2017
jfint - in reply to SCOTT_3D

I notice a 10mm rail option on the x-axis, these rods are the longest, so is 10mm going to be superior, or is the stiff/weight trade-off a diminishing return? Also what about the round blower fan I see on top?

I'm getting much closer to understanding all of the parts, an to my own BOM with prices being kinda complete.

Comments deleted.

Don't buy the 8mm rod in China!
I bought it from 3 different supppiers - all were 7,93mm (which us 5/16 inch).
If you try the lm8uu bearings it they fit pretty ok but with a bit of wiggle in it.
Today my delivery from a local supplier arrived with the rods being 7,99mm (i have to double check both values with a micrometer this weekend) and the fitting was so much better.
The sealings are pushings the oil and you can not roll the bearing on the shaft but slide it smooth along.

Hi PW-sys thanks for the heads up were the 10mm and 12mm rods OK from aliexpress?

Did not try them, they were 30% cheaper locally in europe

Someone can pass me the drawing of the profiles in measurements please I'm in Brazil, I'm very interested in building one but I see that in the files does not have the technical drawing of the printer.
300x300x300 printing area

email: [email protected]

Thanks!
obrigado desde já

Igor, I just bought from Forseti here in Brazil the full aluminum extrusion set for the 300x300x300 dual z axis plus 12 3030 corner brackets with fasteners. All for R$ 298,04 (Without shipping). It is cheaper than China with the advantage of quality, warranty and monthly payments :D

I talked with Acácio at [email protected]

@SCOTT_3D

Can you please share the firmware?
Also, what slicer are you using?
Thanks!

I am using Repetier firmware. Sorry, but I still have not had a chance to upload the config. busy time at work.

For the slicer i am using Simplify3D.

Right thanks, That's the only thing holding me back. I don't know how to configure firmware for a corexy system.

Rest of the parts should be coming in this week. Would anyone be interested in me doing to a live stream of putting it all together? I am thinking of just creating a channel specifically for making this but don't want to put effort if no one is interested :D.

What was your total cost for the BOM?

Once I have it I will share. My build though is going to be more expensive because I am making a few changes. I am not a big fan of components to be outside of the 'cube' so I elongated the z extrusions by 100mm so that I can I have some room at the top for components. Not to mention will be adding a raspberry pi with octoprint along with the standard LCD interface. I also had to stop ordering from aliexpress as some of the packages are taking forever and Im still ordering parts. If I order a part now off of aliexpress then I shouldn't expect to start building until a month from now. I started ordering my parts on amazon. I cant start building because the 'L' connectors is the first thing needed to build it but it seems like it is going to be the last thing that arrives......just my freaking luck :/

I will say this if you live in the states do not spend more than $110USD on your extrusions. There are some manufacturers that are in the states and are cheaper than aliexpress.

I am in CA where are you ??
I love to help if you want..

Im in the midwest....very far from you :D

Huh... which part of the midwest? I'm in greater Cincinnati area. Maybe we can compare notes. I'm almost done with my build. Just waiting on Duet Wifi to come early next week.

It sounds as if you and I have the same idea. I ordered my Z extrusions 100mm longer as well, but my plan is to make a 'basement' underneath to keep the electronics in. I also ordered enough to have 4 extra X/Y extrusions to make a floor for it.
I did order my extrusions stateside, and I wish now that I had done a little more research on the fastener hardware and ordered from Amazon.

You know that 'Slow Boat from China' we've always heard of? Well my stuff is on that boat.

Of course I think I would have only saved on Shipping because most of the fasteners in the BOM I found on Amazon originated in China anyway and the shipping times were about the same.

sweet. If you do that live stream, I would definitely be interested in watching your build.

Comments deleted.

Yes please. That would be amazing.

Someone can pass me the drawing of the profiles in measurements please I'm in Brazil, I'm very interested in building one but I see that in the files does not have the technical drawing of the printer.

email: [email protected]

obrigado desde já

What is your desired build size ?

300x300x300 printing area

What is the lowest price that people have been able to get to with quality parts for the entire part lsit?

If you look at this link, the AliExpress seller has put together an entire BOM with their costings. It comes to USD$335 not including shipping.

Has anyone here used an 8mm detection level sensor? I ordered a 4mm and an 8mm just in case its needed when using glass/pei on the bed. The carriage is designed to hold the 4 which i believe is 12mm diameter. The 8mm is something like 18mm diameter. Anyone have experience with this that could share?

Hi,

I'm planing to build this printer and was wondering what do I need to change in order to use the orginal frame size with a 214x214mm heat bed? Is it enough to just change x extrusion length in order to mount the heat bed?
Yes I know that the frame size is over kill for that print size but my plan is to use as much parts that I have and upgrade later in the future.

Thank you in advance :)

Hi,

use the configurator (the xlsx file) this will give you the length of all the extrusions and rods. the printed parts are all the same.

May 30, 2017 - Modified May 30, 2017
Zuru1 - in reply to PW-Sys

I have used that to get the measurements needed.
My idea is simply to build the frame for the 300X300mm heat bed but instead of using that bed use a 214X214mm heat bed which gives me room to later upgrade to the larger heat bed without buying new extrusions.

Is this possible?

May 30, 2017 - Modified May 30, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to Zuru1

Using the spreadsheet, if you enter a "Min. Build Volume / Travel" of 300x300x300mm and choose the Mk2 Heat Bed (214x214mm) as your build platform you will get the necessary short dimension (140mm) for the Y bed frame 2020 extrusion.

However, if you're planning to add a 300x300 build platform at some point you might be better off building a full size bed that can accommodate the smaller platform perhaps by turning the bed brackets around e.g.

Imgur

In contrast, the 300x300 (actually 328x328) bed looks something like:

Imgur

I made some adjustable bed holders, that can be turned in the desired direction.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218

I had the same problem in the beginning. I started to print with a 213x213mm, since I was waiting for my 300x300mm silicon heat mat
So I used these bedholders.

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis