Hi Guys,

It's getting really hard to find 3030 extrusion where I live... Did any body remixed this for 2020 extrusion instead?

I'm trying to edit the parts in Fusion 360, but I'm realizing I'm no such a great 3D designer =).

Thanks!

I, like many others, are very impressed with this design and it ticks many of the boxes for my next build. I, like many others, can't help but my own stamp on the design. I have a couple of printers with dual Z-axis steppers and I have always wondered how I will know if they get out of sync due to lost steps. Of course, if it gets too bad, the Z axis will bind but a few lost steps could go unnoticed. So, before I order the parts for my Evo, I'm considering using a dual Z axis design with a single stepper motor and a 6mm GT2 belt between drive pulleys on the two acme leadscrews to synchronize them. I don't know that this is really necessary, but I also tell myself it can't hurt. In order to pull this off, I'll need a GT2 closed loop belt which comes in fixed lengths. Can anyone with an assembled Evo tell me what the center to center dimension is between the leadscrews on a dual Z configuration?

Hello there and congrats for the excellent design.
I am planning to build (already ordered most parts) a 300x300x300 HCEVO using (most of) the mechanical and electronics parts of my ANET A8. The question is:
Can the mainboard of the ANET A8 (running Marlin or actually Skynet3D) be used in the HCEVO?
I see that the way the X and Y moves are realised is quite different, so is it just a setting change in Marlin? If not, can the repetier firmware be loaded on the ANET mainboard?
Thanks in advance...

Would there be any advantage to mounting any of the motors and related parts outside of the frame perimeter? Adjusting the frame perimeter so the build platform fits inside, but no much else. Just a thought.

Feel free to join: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/
New FB group for people who don't like bossy administrator ;-)

Hey guys,
Maybe i missed this BUT are there mods to use NEMA23 motors? i want to go 300x300x500(H)

As far as the electronics go can the entire build be completed with just soldering, or is crimping also necessary?

I´m building this awesome printer and I have question. Why are there on extruder carriage 2 optical endstops and it is possible to give there only 1 ?

Thanks

I'm about to start building my Hypercube Evolution soon, and using the excellent Autodesk 360 online model as a basis for figuring things out:

https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761edd5edf41a5b4aa05?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfEAF0gA

One thing I've noticed on this is that it has an arrangement where the part cooler duct is mounted behind the X-carriage, rather than sandwiched between the X-carriage and hotend assembly. Does anyone know where to find this part cooler duct (and the adapter)? The only thing I can glean from the model is that the name of the duct is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_1.0, and that its mounting bracket is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_MOUNT_1.1. (Presumably it's for an E3D Titan Aero extruder, but it looks like it's generic enough to fit many of the hotend mounts floating around.) I've searched high and low on Thingiverse to no avail..

Anyone already made a remix for 3-point leveling?

Is there something like an assembly guide or so? This would be my first CoreXY style printer

Since our international Facebook group is doing well and growing, we decided to create a group for the german speaking group of people.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/HypercubeEvoDeutsch/

Who is interested, please join :)

1- the brass inserts are cool in theory, but in practice it's very easy to pull them out, e.g: when tightening the screws on the XY joiners (the y bearing holder on the original wasn't a bad design with the bolt and nut assembly), or the one in the middle of the x carriage. There are places where the brass inserts are perfectly fine, such as in the idler pulley holders or the rod end clamps because there's plastic in between them and they're acting as nuts. Where they're doing the job of a tapped hole (e.g: xy joiner) is where they're not so fine, because of the insert-pulling action I described before. In that area, they're also too close to the surface that touches the bearings; when you're inserting them with the soldering iron it's easy to make bumps on that surface, which requires a bit of sanding down in order to fit the bearings. The y axis bearings also give plenty of room for tabs for through-bolts and nuts.

3- The LM10LUU bearings on the Y axis are a good thing, smooth and mostly play-free. This makes me think 10mm rods and long bearings would be perfect for the z axis, since 10mm rods are extremelly stiff

4- the two in line 12mm bearings for the Z axis tend to lock up if the z-bearing holder is not perfectly made, the bearings on the x carriage will also lock up if the x axis rods are not perfectly parallel. Long bearings (eg: LM8LUU) would be good enough for those parts. The x carriage could also use a combination of one long bearing and one short bearing, which would decrease the weight and also have no play or very little play

All in all, as I'm enjoying building this and think it's an excellent design --despite some issues--, I'd like to thank Scott for this great contribution to DIY 3d printers!

Hmpf M5 Screws and Nuts @.@. Is a Version with M4 Screws possible, pls? :D

hey. i would like to have the stl. file of scott 3d's dial indicator attachment. he shows it in his video. but i cant find the file for it.....any ideas????

Hi, awesome job.
I would like to use some LM12LUU Bearings for the Z axis. Is it possible for you to make that work?
Also i have some SFU1204 400mm Ball Screws laying around and would use them for this build. Can you adjust the z nut part?
I can do this on my own if you could upload the part files.
Thanks in advance.

I liked the simplicity of this design so much that decided to modify XY-mechanics of my Vertex K8400 printer. If interested, follow the development at this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2427810

After 2 sets of 8mm Rods from 2 vendors, and 18 lm8uu bearings from 3 vendors not sliding like they should, I am giving up and going to 10mm rods for the X carriage.

I printed the Y_Carriage_xDia10_LM10UU and went to bring the X carriage with lm10UU bearing holders. There is not one in the file. Does anyone have an X carriage with LM10UU I can use?

Also, should an LM8UU bearing slide down a 8mm rod under it's own weight? Maybe I am just expecting too much. See this video https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=3eJDcDItUWU

Hey Scott, Any chance I can commission you to modify the XY setup to work with 12mm rods? I'm really bad at modifying meshes. Im going to use LM12UU bearings on the Y axis and RJMP-01-12 Bushings for the X with some Carbon Rods. Please let me know before I go ask somewhere else because you are the most familiar with the design.

Hi. I'm looking for 8mm files for z axis. I've already 8mm rods. I'm converting my ultimaker clone to this HCEvo. Because of that i need 8mm rod stl's. I need "Z axis linear rail brackets" and "Z axis bearing holder" for 8mm rods. Thanks for advance.

Echoing Vailac, thanks Scott for the design and Tech2C for the inspiration.
I am looking at building a 400mmx400mmx300mm unit. I have a few questions though before I order parts.
1.) For the bed mounting hole spacing (eg MK2 is 210mmx210mm hole spacing on 214x214mm bed size), is the hole spacing from the centre of the hole or the edge?
2.)Would you recommend using 10mm rails for the X and Y axis?
3.) Does the excel calculator work on larger builds (eg my 400x400x300mm)?
3.) Looking at some of the comments, it looks like some people are using direct drive rather than bowden. Am I reading this correct?

Thanks for any advice

First, credits where it's due: kudos for this design and to Tech2C who inspired it.

But also, food for thought: the main reason a 3D printer frame has to be rigid is the fact that the frame has to fight the inertia of the printing head and other fast moving components without deforming. But what if it doesn't have to?

A vibration damper that is the softest in X and Y (like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1344305) would let the frame move around instead of resisting the inertia of the head (for a cartesian printer, delta are a quite different in terms of inertia). But the inertia of the printer itself should also be as low as possible where the printer head is, so the printer actually moves around instead of its inertia fighting the inertia of the printing head. And this becomes really interesting is the HyperCube design because the printing head is always at the same place (the top) so you can focus your lightening effort in a single area (not so applicable in a typical Prusa design for example, where the head moves up and down).

So here are a few ideas for a HyperCube Evolution 2 with minimal inertia at the top, where the printing head is, so the printer frame could effortlessly move and tilt on its dampers instead of deforming:

• Move the X and Y stepper motor to the bottom. I would use 10mm carbon tube extension, because they are torsionaly extremely rigid and very cheap, using 100% infill 3D printed PLA or PC adapters for the stepper motor shaft and the 5mm small rod for the top pulley.
• Use carbon tube to support the building plate, and use a heating PCB (like Prusa i3 MkII) for a light, flat, rigid surface instead of the much heavier aluminium plus heater plus glass (the building plate spend most of its time at the top, especially with small parts, so its inertia counts even if it is not moving much by itself). A cheaper alternative could be an aluminium plate with multiple support point from a carbon tube frame but calibrating flatness could take a while, although it should be good for a while once calibrated.
• Use 2020 extrusions for the vertical and top frame so it is lighter at the top, and 2040 (40mm vertical) at the bottom to make sure the top movements are transferred to the bottom and ultimately to the dampers.
• Another option would be to build the entire top out of 10mm carbon fiber tubes (3 in a triangle for each extrusion) with 3D printed adapters to the bottom 2040 frame to make the top even lighter. 10mm carbon tube are so cheap now that 3 tubes cost less the a single 2020 extrusion. My main concern with that option would be the rigidity of the carbon tube/extrusion interface relying on 3D printed parts. It has to be tested since 2020 extrusion with 3D printed PLA corners are quite rigid.
• Use +2mm tubes instead of rods (i.e. a 10mm tube instead of a 8mm rod), with plastic bearings as the most common tubes available are aluminium which would be grooved by hardened steel bearing balls (IMHO, carbon tube are not a good idea in the rod application as their diameter varies a bit, which would create variation in friction). LM10UU bearings are almost as common as LM8UU but I'm not sure about their plastic equivalents. A PLA (or ideally POM/Delrin) 3D printed bearing should do the trick

The whole idea of all this is to lower the "internal" acceleration (since it is transferred to the frame movements) so you can increase the initial jerk speed and acceleration/deceleration ramps in the firmware, which have a much important contribution to the overall printing speed than the "maximum" speed for most objects.This wouldn't make the 3D printer inherently more precise, as its precision depends on the precision of the components, but it would (could) allow to maintain its precision at higher speeds since inertia would move the entire frame around instead of deforming the frame.

Note: The rule of thumb in precision movements (<100 microns) is the 25:1 ratio for length vs perpendicular dimension, so a 2020 extrusion is (rule of thumb) good for 500mm while a 8mm rod is only good for around 200mm (surprisingly, the same ratio apply to a mostly empty 2020 extrusion or a solid 8mm rod). However, if the inertia is mostly converted in the entire frame moving around instead of the frame fighting it, I think a 600mm frame or more using 2020 shouldn't be a problem, especially if using high rigidity aluminium like T6.

Well, that was a bit long for a comment and that's all for now. Don't ask me to test my theory myself because, as much as physics and mechanics are natural to me, I definitely suck at CAD design. I just hope it inspires someone to build, test and share a HyperCube Evolution 2 based on principles I haven't seen so far in 3D printers.

Hi Scott! I'm truly amazed with your desing. I saw you've added an xls file for calculating the correct extrusion, rails and lead screws sizes, however, would you mind sharing the sizes you used in the case of dual Z axis version? I'm pretty new on this and I'm affraid screwing it up using the spreadsheet :). Thanks a lot!

What is the max length of the Z axis lead screw for the 300mm build volume? The vendor I found only sells 320mm and 350mm integrated lead screw motors, I wonder which one of these will fit the best.

can you please upload a step file to Thingiverse? I know the facebook group has it but i would like to see it downloadable from here if possible

Is there a BOM just for the printed parts? I am trying to figure out which parts I need to print and how many, but I can't seem to find that anywhere. Looking to build this thing with the dual Z upgrade. Any help would be great. Thanks!

I have started my Hypercube. I am attempting to make a how to video as well for everyone here.

I could use some help though. 2 things.

Has anyone figure out the difference of the bed bracket files. I understand the numbers are angles, but can someone tell me the significance of them before I print all of them and test?
Also, I don't see files for an extruder here? is there a common extruder that is used that will mount to the 30x30?

Any chance of making a Z end stop and flag for those that dont need to use a bed level sensor?

@SCOTT_3D
Hey,
Thanks for the awesome design :)

In one of your youtube videos you said that you would upload a modified X-carriage for IGUS bearings. I cannot find this file. Could you please send me a link?

What's the estimated total price if you had to buy everything?

Hi @SCOTT_3D, can you please add the Y Endstop flag for a 10mm rod?

Thanks!

Is the 400w 24v PSU enough? The heat bed on it's own consumes 360 watts, I don't think 40 watts is enough to drive all the other components.

Is there a video how to assemble the hotend-holder? ( I didn't find one)

Or can anybody tell me how to do?

Scott
Great work. I am preparing to build one, 300 mm cubic build volume. It seems nearly obvious that the Double Z axis is the way to go from all the experimentation that you and Tech2C have done.

However as this design is all about stiffness and improved quality, I have been looking at the Z linear rails and it seems to me that 4 12mm linear rails are excessive. Once the second Z axis is used that controls rotation around the Y axis, and then there are no cantilever static loads around X axis.

So just 2 x 12 mm widely spaced Z linear rods would be sufficient stiff to control for "near perfect" X and Z axes alignment under vibration loads.

Of course everything is flexible and so I am still considering the issues of Z axis bearing tolerances, wondering whether to do some column stiffness analysis of rigid vs "flexible" Z rail mounts, and vs 400 vs 500mm Z rail length - in the context of how accurate can we assemble these of course. My gut feel is all that analysis would be overkill.

I feel adding the second Z axis provides effectively all the observable improvement for high quality hobby-grade machines, and going from 2 to 4 Z rails is negligible. The remaining decision is then where to put them and reducing them to 400, or staying at 500 and increasing the length of the Z axis bearing holders if bearing preload is not possible and bearing slop is an issue.

My thoughts.

Can somebody tell me how much filament (grams?) I need to print all parts? Thanks!

Heavy duty upper rod holders brackets, dual screw and added a slot ridge to stop rotation during alignment. one of the guys int he fb group made them for me.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/862003513952930/

Anibody has designed año IDEX direct solución for Hypercube?

Hello. My question can be a little stupid but i cant find the information.

im building my printer from scracht. No parts or anything

1. What extruder i need to buy?
2. How i decide the size of the bed bracket?
3. How i decide the size of the shafts?
4. Any other part not listed in the buy or build list that i need to know about to complete my project?

Has anyone made an optical sensor holder and flag for the Z axis? I am not going to use the probe sensor.

Hi Scott
Awesome build and I am looking forward to trying to make one myself
Woud you be willing to share the Inventor files?
Cheers
Bruce

Any chance to get an X Carriage and the XY joiners that use 10mm rods instead of 8?

they are as close as the can be :(

i am in the middle of doing the double z axis...for some reason i keep getting twisting and bindign , cant get a smooth motion ...using 4 12mm rods on the corners and then 2 2-start t10s for the lead screws to rais my 500x 500 bed.

Hey Scott! This looks spectacular. I can't wait to build it but am still waiting for delivery of my Anet A8. This build has made quite an impact on "Components Explorer" - your BOM takes up 2/3 of their 3030 profile details (with links to every part).

Great design! Do you think it would work with an e3d chimera?

Hi Scott, Firstly I'd like to say I love your design, especially the X carriage. I'd like to use it on my HyperCube, so, I was wondering if your X rods were the same spacing as those on the HyperCube

Hey
I would be happy if you could also upload parts to fore the 3030 extrusion Bed chassis
Since in my country it is really hard to find 2020 extrusion

HELLO SCOTT ,Hello, I finished this printer, but problems have been unable to continue, the printer is remote feed, but feeding machine on top middle position, because the distance is relatively long, try too hard, especially easy to plug. Who has a better solution?. Thank you

Is it possible that for the 2020 L-brackets for the bed are missing in the parts list?

is there any advice in order to correctly mount the frame? i want to get it well mounted and equilibrated.

Just incase people need it here it a link for the HyperCube Evolution in a google sheets format, ( some of the vlookup is different so had to edit it)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17ITakn9my9-51lXOf7maWjUoSWivcAo-OPjlB7SPPgM/edit?usp=sharing

Hi would it be possible to produce an x carriage/clamp to take 18mm probe?

I'm confused...

I have installed the x/y gantry first.
Now I'm in the process of assembling the Z brackets.
There are 2 sets of Z axis linear rail brackets.
1 set of left and right marked (as I'm assuming "version") 1.0.
And another set marked left right double z 1.1.

I've asked in this group if there were instructions other than the videos (which do not show any step by step assembly) on measurements and which parts go where, but I didn't get an answer. So I've been relying on pictures and pausing videos to see exactly what parts go where.

With that, I see that the brackets marked "double z 1.1" are being installed at the top and the other set on the bottom. But it's impossible to tighten the top bracket screw with the Y gantry and top Y t slot rail in the way.

If I install the 1.0 bracket on the top it'll be a piece of cake. Which means I'll need to ditch the 1.1 brackets all together and print more of the smaller 1.0 brackets. But I'm a stickler to stick with the design and I'm sure Scott made the larger brackets for the top for good reason.

Please, someone tell me what I'm missing.

And again, is there a one stop shop for details on assembling this beautiful machine?
You can't rely on Tech2C's detailed videos for assembly because the parts are different and his design is a single zed axis.

If not, I'm talking myself into making a video series to help out guys like myself in assembling this thing.

Thank you in advance. :-)

Hi, i'm a new user.
I would like to built my first 3d printer and I think "hypercube Evolution" is the best for that.
But i have a question ...How to have the PLA connecting parts ?
Can someone make it to me ?
thansk for your answers
Stephane
French guy with bad english

45mm table bracket with slotted 3mm hole added to the facebook group files for those that need one.

Other than Scott's videos, is there a one stop shop for assembly information such as measurements when fastening the printed parts to the frame?
Thanks in advance for any responses.

Hi, thanks for good idea and great work! I want use linear rail slide+MGN12H in HyperCube Evolution. Can you send me your solidworks files for next some changes?

keep an eye out on amazon, probably ebay too, PDtech will start selling cut 3030 extrusion, 3mm build plates, already sells the rods. (usa)

hi, thanks for sharing this awesome design.
I was thinking to convert my anet a8 to this setup, but i have one question. The parts that are seen in the video are made with a machine like this? because i see some small ringing in circles (yellow parts) but a lot of z banding in the grey parts.

What quantity and lengths are needed for the M3 screws? I'm thinking of buying another kit than the one specified in the BOM.

Is there a more accurate threaded rod besides t8 that can offer better resolution?

thank you so much for taking the time to do this build. i am in the midst of making a 24 x24x 48 build.
yes you read that right. using 30mm extrusion. i initally bought t8 lead screw..but am upgrading to t10 after seeing your build..
im doing dual lead screws..and 4 linear rails for zed :P. again thank you.

Minsk

Hi,

I'm pretty sure somebody already made a nice BOM/Excelsheet for this project for getting an overview, calculating costs and tracking/comparing the shops/websites for the parts. If you want to share yours I would really appreciate it, due to my ongoing plans building my own Evolution in the next couple of months and therefore constant comparison of the different setups/changes some people made here in the comment section.

How many of the M5 Fastener Stuff is really needed? I have the opportunity to buy them in single pieces. The BOM shows 100pcs packages.

any chance adding of your 40mm hot bed bracket or even better a slotted version of the 45?

I have 2 questions.

1. Has anyone found a good stepper motor with 330mm exposed lead screw? If I use 500mm Lead screw will it just stick out of the top and not hurt anything?

2. Has anyone considered adding a second "extruder" , but instead use a laser for laser cutting stuff? When you slice the object you would only slice one layer? Is this even possible?

Hi Scott great work look nice will change my plans for building a hybercube in to build this version instead. I have a question i have the alu profile 2020 for the hypercube but your design is for 3030 for the frame so i assume that fitting for the y and x stepper motor and for the Pulleys wont fit a frame built of 2020 .
Are there any chans you could proved stl:s for your design that will fit a 2020 frame ?
/David

Will the brass inserts work for ABS parts as well? Besides thank you for your awesome work!!

Hello Scott, I'm Dominique, (DJAC1974), I'm french, sorry for my English.
I've a tobeca 2 with two extruders (200x200x250).
I like the design, very very good work Scott, I've printed parts since yesterday to create a 300x300x500 3D printer.
I've a few questions:

• Where do you buy a new linear guide to replace LM8UU and LM10UU?
• I want to insert the titan extruder (E3D) and 3dtouch sensor. Can you please send the drawing 3d (inventor or solidworks) of the machine?
• On vidéo, I see use the RADDS v1.5 card, switch optical endstop is compatible with this card or it necessary add resistor (ohm?; and power W)?

Advance thank you very much for the answers.

I will post pictures later, when this projet to be more advance.

Long continuation at Hypercube Evolution.

Hi I love your project.I would like to make 800x800x800mm build area.do you have some plans how to I do that? What rod I have toa use?little big? Thanks.

I am starting to source my parts for today and build this. I have a prusa i3 china kit I have heavily modified and now I need something more solid.

I am familiar with the ramps/arudino setup, but I wanted to move to something a bit faster and more robust. I have 3 questions.

1. Has anyone tried this with an authentic smoothie board?
2. Do you know if smoothie board can support the 24 volts?
3. Is there something better than smoothie?

Also +1 for another group not on facebook.
Also +1 for local source parts in the Seattle area.

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-evo

Is the time for a group also to keep clean the comments :D

Enjoy

I ordered this lead screw : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RepRap-3D-Printer-THSL-300-8D-Lead-Screw-Dia-8MM-Thread-8mm-Length-300mm-with-Copper/32435304660.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.dzdDkc

It´s 500mm long so build travel distance on Z axe will be 470mm ?
So I will buy linear guides and extrusions with values for X-300mm, Y-300mm and Z-470mm.
Because I think the nut on the lead screw will be about 3cm high so Z travel could be 470mm.

Thanks
All the best

Lukas

What is the best place to get the aluminum extrusions in the Seattle area, or just the Pacific Northwest in general?

Scott
I have found there is an issue with the configurator for people that are using a coupler between the stepper and lead screw.
Of course it will extend the lead screw 10-15 cm ish. A bit of a duh moment I wish I had realized before hand.
So either the lead screw needs to be shorter or the frame and z rod guides need to be that much longer.

Since I already have the parts in order to get the design to continue to work I have to flip the lower Z rod clamps upside down otherwise the z rods will not reach them.

A note in the excel file or a yes/no switch to are you using flex couplers to compensate lengths might be a good idea.

I'm not sure if its bad form to do this before I even build the printer, but I drew it and people asked, so here is my attempt at a BLTouch Mount that does not require and modifications of Scott_3D's original carrier design. Of course I'll change it based on someone trying it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2366952

Suggest ordering m6x12mm screws and hammer nuts for frame assembly or m5x12mm screws for the corner brackets........ if you are using misumi extrusion its easier to assemble than 10mm because of the channel depth.

Thank you very much for your design! It is perfect!

What is the layer resolution? Can you give information.

Thanks for the work!
Do you think I can use this kind of extrusuion? Its the only thing avaible in germany for a fair price:
http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170603/t3ampfv5.jpg

Wow. You have done an incredible job in making it so easy for people to understand and build this machine.

THANK YOU!

PS - I'd love to tip you, but you don't have the feature activated on your account.

How much approximately it cost?

Alright, most of the parts have come in but enough to the point where I can start building. Alot of people have messaged me and I think I am going to stream the build. I rented some equipment and we will try this. I have never done this sort of thing before and have never built a 3D Printer so this could go very well or very bad :D. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWI1LZf7RHA This will be the link for the stream.

So, finally I found time to make a mount for the E3D Chimera/Cyclops Dual Extruder hotends.

Get it here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218

Pretty complete BOM, but can anyone point me at what all the round rods are? I would be look at the double Z-axis version. Also...what about a list of parts that make up the Hot end? I don't have a prusa i3 to convert, and there are many options over there at E3D, this would include the fans and whatever else is needed. I've been using 3d printers for about a year now at work, but I haven't built one yet.

Don't buy the 8mm rod in China!
I bought it from 3 different supppiers - all were 7,93mm (which us 5/16 inch).
If you try the lm8uu bearings it they fit pretty ok but with a bit of wiggle in it.
Today my delivery from a local supplier arrived with the rods being 7,99mm (i have to double check both values with a micrometer this weekend) and the fitting was so much better.
The sealings are pushings the oil and you can not roll the bearing on the shaft but slide it smooth along.

for info deadlink :

5m Polyurethane GT2 6mm belt
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-Meter-Polyurethane-GT2-6mm-Open-Timing-Belt-Width-6mm-GT2-2GT-Belt-For-3D-Printer/32616409980.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB

Someone can pass me the drawing of the profiles in measurements please I'm in Brazil, I'm very interested in building one but I see that in the files does not have the technical drawing of the printer.
300x300x300 printing area

email: [email protected]

Thanks!
obrigado desde já

@SCOTT_3D

Can you please share the firmware?
Also, what slicer are you using?
Thanks!

+1

Rest of the parts should be coming in this week. Would anyone be interested in me doing to a live stream of putting it all together? I am thinking of just creating a channel specifically for making this but don't want to put effort if no one is interested :D.

Someone can pass me the drawing of the profiles in measurements please I'm in Brazil, I'm very interested in building one but I see that in the files does not have the technical drawing of the printer.

email: [email protected]

obrigado desde já

What is the lowest price that people have been able to get to with quality parts for the entire part lsit?

Has anyone here used an 8mm detection level sensor? I ordered a 4mm and an 8mm just in case its needed when using glass/pei on the bed. The carriage is designed to hold the 4 which i believe is 12mm diameter. The 8mm is something like 18mm diameter. Anyone have experience with this that could share?

Hi,

I'm planing to build this printer and was wondering what do I need to change in order to use the orginal frame size with a 214x214mm heat bed? Is it enough to just change x extrusion length in order to mount the heat bed?
Yes I know that the frame size is over kill for that print size but my plan is to use as much parts that I have and upgrade later in the future.

Thank you in advance :)