HyperCube Evolution
by SCOTT_3D, published
Tags
License
Liked By
View All
Give a Shout Out
If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.
Print Thing TagMakes
View More
Summary
The HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer is a CoreXY printer inspired by the excellent HyperCube 3D Printer developed by Tech2C. The belt arrangement on that printer was the neatest CoreXY arrangement that I have seen.
I have leveraged the great work that Tech2C has done to refine his design and incorporated this with my own further development to reduce the number of printed parts and simplify the build.
Design goals for the HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer:
-
Increase the stiffness of the printer to further improve / reduce vibration artefacts.
- 3030 extrusion used for the frame
- 2020 extrusion used for the build platform frame
- 8mm diameter X rails
- 10mm diameter Y rails
- 12mm diameter Z rails
- Minimise the size of the printer for the chosen build volume.
- Parametric CAD design in Autodesk Inventor
- Excel spreadsheet provided to allow for customised printer size
The prototype printer, with a build volume of 300 x 300 x 300, met with all expectation but did show some small bed vibrations when printing at high speed due to the large bed and counter levered design. Therefore, two build options are available. A single Z axis version for smaller build platforms and a double Z axis version for larger beds or those wishing for a rock solid build platform.
The Evolution also features a quick attach X carriage to allow for interchangeable tools e.g. the extruder mount and a DTI mount for tramming the build platform.
More to come over the next few weeks as I'm awaiting parts for upgrade the prototype to use the double Z axis, and also the parts to convert my Geetech Prusa i3 into another HyperCube Evolution.
Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/
Changelog:
20.04.2017 Configuration file updated, multiple size Bed Brackets added
22.04.2017 BOM added
23.04.2017 Introduction video added https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rctCsUGnX8&feature=youtu.be
23.04.2017 Added 4 variations of Y carriage to suit different combinations of 8mm and 10mm rails. Plus bearing clamps to suit. Note - current X carriage only suits LM8UU bearings. An adaptor will be needed to use 10mm bushings.
30.04.2017 Error found in spreadsheet which resulted in 10mm rails being 30mm too long. Version 1.2 uploaded.
09.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Axis Linear Rail Bracket - Double Z - Left & Right.
13.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Nut Bracket - modified for easier assembly
13.05.2017 Z Nut Bracket for T10 leadscrew added
27.05.2017 Configuration file updated to include part print list (note that some part versions are still not available)
02.06.2017 Repetier configuration file uploaded
17.06.2017 40mm bed bracket added
17.06.2017 v1.1 versions of XY Stepper Mount and Idler Mount added which have slotted screw holes for different L brackets. v1.0 versions remain for those who don't need the slot.
17.06.2017 v1.1 of XY Stepper Mount and Idler Mount for 8mm diameter Y linear rails
18.06.2017 v1.4 configuration file added.. Thanks to Nicolas Harscoat for adding the shaft selector which then determines the part versions to be printed.
01.07.2017 CAD files uploaded for v1.0 as a pack and go. So the assembly should work. Note that some published parts are now v1.0+, but these files should get people going.
22.07.2017 Mounts for Full Graphic Controller added
BOM
Frame and linear guides – use the Excel spreadsheet to calculate the lengths required for your custom size.
3030 and 2020 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-3030W-Aluminum-Extrusion-Profile-Free-cutting-in-any-Length-Black-Color/32799761497.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.GpQMwK
16 x L type bracket for 3030 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/T-slot-L-type-90-degree-EU-standard-3030-aluminum-profile-Inside-corner-connector-bracket-with/32772827830.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
8 x 3030 corner brackets
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-lots-3030-corner-fitting-angle-aluminum-35-x-35-L-connector-bracket-fastener-match-use/32733275167.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB
Fasteners
M6 x 10 Button head screws - 6 off required for mounting of Stepper Motor Brackets and XY Idler Brackets
M5 x 10 Button head screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-lot-M5-10-Bolt-A2-70-ISO7380-Button-Head-Socket-Screw-Bolt-SUS304-Stainless-Steel/32328885247.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
M3 Socket head screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hex-Socket-Head-Cap-Screw-M3-Qty-90pcs-in-Box-Assortment-Kits-SUS-304-M3-4/32334431524.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 3030 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-30-M5-hammer-nut-M5-block-t-slot-nuts-for-3030-aluminum-profile-extrusion-Slot/32688393400.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 2020 extrusion
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M5-T-Nut-Hammer-Nut-Aluminum-Connector-T-Fastener-Sliding-Nut-Nickel-Plated-Carbon-Steel-for/32619352982.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB
4 x 3mm dowel pins
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GB119-304-Stainless-Steel-Cylindrical-Pin-Locating-Pin-M3-12/32789184323.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.iDrnoz
100pcs M3 5x5 Brass knurled insert
http://www.banggood.com/100pcs-M3x5x5mm-Metric-Threaded-Brass-Knurl-Round-Insert-Nuts-p-1050182.html?rmmds=search
Motors
1 or 2 x NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8 – length needs to be ~30mm longer than required Z travel, depending on nut type
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-3D-Printer-NEMA-17-Lead-Screw-300mm-Stepper-Motor-Z-Axis-3D-Printer-KIT-Step/32579962696.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.UfVwc7
3 x NEMA 17 42mm Stepper Motors
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CE-certification-3pcs-4-lead-Nema17-Stepper-Motor-42-motor-D-shaft-motor-42BYGH-1-7A/32786907415.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
Pulleys and Belts
2 x GT2 Timing Pulley (20 teeth) 5mm bore for 6mm belt
6 x GT2 Idler Pulley (20 teeth) 3mm bore
2 x GT2 Idler Pulley without teeth (20 teeth) 3mm bore
5m Polyurethane GT2 6mm belt
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-Meter-Polyurethane-GT2-6mm-Open-Timing-Belt-Width-6mm-GT2-2GT-Belt-For-3D-Printer/32616409980.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.mTb6EB
Linear Bearings
4 x LM12UU 12mm Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM10UU 10mm Linear Ball Bearings or 2 x LM10LUU 10mm Long Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM8UU 8mm Linear Ball Bearings
Heated Bed components
1 x Heated Bed 300x300
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-RepRap-3D-Prusa-Mendel-Printer-MK2A-300-300-3-0mm-Heater-Bed-RAMPS-1-4/32668984871.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
4 or 6 x Levelling screws
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-Leveling-components-M3-screw-Leveling-spring-Leveling-knob-suite-free-shipping-M3-40-IMG/32562830096.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
1 x 100kohm NTC3950 thermistor
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-3d-printer-parts-100K-ohm-NTC-3950-Thermistors-with-cable-for-3D-Printer-Reprap-Mend/32489800025.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
Control System
1 x 24V 400W power supply
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Best-quality-24V-16-7A-400W-Switching-Power-Supply-Driver-for-LED-Strip-AC-100-240V/32318296978.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
1 x RAMPS 1.4 with stepper drivers and display – NOTE: This board needs to be modified to run a 24V system. If you don’t then you will kill the Arduino Mega!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-A4988-Stepper-Driver-Module-with-Heatsink-1pcs-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-RAMPS1-4-LCD-12864/1869163278.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.0rKDs5
1 x RAMPS 1.4 fan extender module – use to run the 12V fans
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-3D-Printer-Reprap-Ramps1-4-RRD-Fan-Extender-Max-20V-Fan-Expansion-Module/1804966614.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.rT5D2f
1 x DC-DC 24V-12V step down module
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-DC-24V-18V-to-12V-3A-Step-Down-Module-MINI-Buck-Converter-Power-Supply-Circuit/32778770850.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.G2tjiK
1 x Arduino MEGA 2560
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mega-2560-CH340G-ATmega2560-16AU-Compatible-for-Arduino-Mega-2560/32517341214.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT
1 x Power expansion module (if needed)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/for-3D-Printer-General-Add-on-Heated-Bed-Power-Expansion-Module-High-Power-Module-expansion-board/32706099435.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
1 x 5V NPN M12 inductive sensor
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M12-4mm-detection-5VDC-NPN-NO-LJ12A3-4-Z-BX-5V-cylinder-inductive-proximity-sensor-switch/32553311139.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.iDrnoz
Cable
5m x 24AWG 4 core UL2464 cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1M-UL-2464-2C-3C-4C-24-AWG-Multi-core-PVC-jacket-cable-Tinned-copper-wire/32781273770.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT
5m x 24AWG Red Black cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IEKOV-5-M-Tinned-copper-24AWG-2-pin-Red-Black-cable-300V-PVC-insulated-wire-Electric/32649240375.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.O0iWmT
2m x 14AWG Silicone cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/14AWG-Flexible-Silicone-Wire-Cable-Soft-High-Temperature-Tinned-copper-UL-1M/32653995219.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
5m x Servo extension cable
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/servo-JR-color-extension-cable-3p-line-futaba-jr-model-aircraft-model-wiring-Wholesale-30-core/32610086634.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
Connectors for Stepper motors
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20-Sets-Micro-JST-2-0-PH-6-Pin-Connector-plug-Male-Female-Crimps/32399923294.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.X3vJKL
Print Settings
Printer:
HyperCube Evolution
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.2mm
Infill:
25 - 50%
More from 3D Printers
view more
File Name
Downloads
Size
All Apps
Upgrade this Thing with Thingiverse Apps
CustomizationEdit, personalize, or revise this Thing
Print FulfilmentOrder a print of this Thing
Tools and UtilitiesRepair, slice, or enhance this Thing
Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...
App Info Launch App
Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...
App Info Launch App
With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.
App Info Launch App
Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...
App Info Launch App
Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...
App Info Launch App
3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.
App Info Launch App
Hi Scott,
Please could I ask you to have a look at the Configurator file for me - it opens with some cell errors in 'Sheet 1' and '###' in 'Configuration'. The '###' values propagate further if I select Dual Z axis.
Any assistance would be appreciated,
many thanks
Berni
:: Update ::
The Configurator file works fine, but as an 'xlsx' file seems incompatible with OpenOffice or GoogleSheets. On Windows 10, I opened the file using the XLS Edit app from the AppStore.
Edit: Sorry, didn't see your reply Warham - yes, I predominantly use OpenOffice so when I realised that it might be a syntax/translation error, I tried to find a native Excel reader/editing solution.
are you using open office or something other than MS excel?
Is there a model anywhere that includes all parts (basically the full machine like in the render)?
You have to enter your build details into the configuration Excel file and it should detail which printed parts you need. Still trying to figure out exactly which pieces we need for Lin's 400x400x400 BOM, the Excel sheet didn't give me any bed parts to print.
-Joe
We've got a Hypercube Evo 400x400x400 BOM coming from Lin and are working on getting the parts printed in eSun green PETG, however we're running into a lot of areas where support is required but will be very difficult to remove. For parts like the duct or the X-carriage did you use support in the holes then drill or cut it out or did you try to bridge the small holes instead of using support?
Thanks,
Joe
Happy to say I am building one of these. Dual Z axis and all.
I really value the FULL 3D model you provided. It helps a lot during the assembly.
I converted to Fusion 360 and it most of it converted perfectly.
I did run into one item so far... seems the full 3D model still has the "Z Axis Liner Rail Bracket Assembly - Tall - Right" and Left as the version 1.0.
Puts the holding screw such that it does not hit the channel in the 3030 extrusion. I see you caught it and have the 1.1 version available separately.
So anyone building one of these should be aware that the full 3D model is not as current as some of the files.
hii
thanks for sharing this thing
about extrusion, can I use all profile size with 3030? so no need to combine with 2020 extrusion
thank you
You would have to re-model several of the components to make that swap work.
The 3030 is heavier and will not really improve the functionality. The platform is plenty ridged from what I am seeing.
Another error: You list only 8 corner brackets, but the dual z-axis assembly requires 12...according to your video. Please update your BOM
It depends on how you build your Hypercube Evolution. E.g. I use 8 3030 corner brackets and 20 L-Type brackets. Others use other combinations. The original CAD model shows how it works with 8 brackets
You don't mention in you BOM that you need 20 l-brackets for the dual Z-axis version. It only has 16 listed. So, I ordered 16 and have only 16. Now what?
Need to order 4 more and pay a crap load in shipping.
Please update you BOM.
I start to order things now to the Evolution but the downloaded excel calculator shows some error 509 ?
I use Open Offices. Any solution ?.
Hi
there is some bug in Z axis holder
distance between hole and edge is 10mm (must be 15mm) and hole is not solid
I found that problem too... and saw it was already solved. there is a 1.1 release of the bracket.
https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3673856
Hi all, I've been collecting parts for my build with a 300 x 300 bed and Z build height of 400. I want to utilise some rods I already had 4 x 13mm for the Z with standard lm8uu bearings with housings and 2 x 12mm for the Y with bronze bushes. I plan to go with 8mm and bushes for the X. My question is has anybody else used these particular rod sizes for Y and Z with already modified Stl's to suit? I'm unable to modify these drawings myself.
More than most people probably want to admit. The standard size probably runs around $500 with no customization and a standard ramps 1.4 board. Add another $100 if you want an plexi glass enclosure. Add $50 for another 10cm in Z-axis....
If you want to see some really nice custom builds check out the Hypercube Evo FB page before you start building.
I am having some similar questions regarding the bed size and offsets.
I'm going to be building the dual Z, and am getting a 400mm x 400mm bed heater. And a cast aluminum bed. My questions are:
I can see where I can put the dimensions in for the build plate. But it's not making sense to me.
If my heater is 400mm x 400mm (OK, maybe 420mm, I'll measure it when it comes in next week). Wouldn't the mounting holes be greater than 400 x 400? Otherwise, I'd be putting holes in the heater itself. Am I missing something?
With respect to the bed bracket offset, how am I to choose this? Is this where you add the additional 15mm to 45mm to the build plate size to accommodate the screws? What is the purpose of the difference offset sizes?
Thanks
Michael
Yeah you have to put the holes for example at 425x425 with a bigger plate like 450x450.
By the Bed Brackets take the longest. The 45mm Version.
Hey guys, whats the recommended added size for having electronics at the bottom?
Also a size 25 bracket will be ok for a 300*300 heated bed? or should I go higher?
Hi there!
In case I intend to assemble a HEVO 300^3, dual Z, which is the distance between the bottom of the Z extrusions and the bottom of the XY ones? And at which height should I place the "third" extrusion along Y?
Thank you in advance!
Im going to upgrade my Hypercube with some parts and as i was looking at banggood i found that you now can get igus like Polymer Linear Bearing at Banggood:
Can someone tell me This what needs to be modified to run the adruino with 24V system
Suppose you want to run a ramps with an arduino.
It depends if you want to run everything on 24 volts or only the bed.
I had changed everything to 24 volts..
Hotend 24 volts
Fans 24 volts
Bed 24 volts
Ramps controller unsolder one of the automatic fuses ( it says 16 volts on it) the other one is OK
Replace by another automotiv fuse.. (search on youtube)
Remove the diode that powers the arduino
5 volts stepdown convertor to power the arduino
Thats it It is wise to control the board via an external MOSFET board.
Thats it
Regards
Tom
Can someone please provide me with the list of parts I need to the printer for dual z-axis version with the quantity. I am very confused with the excel sheet
I just opened the file the very first time and it seems to very clear what to do...
On Configurations Tab you have Selectors (Click on the Cell next to the "Select" Field to open the Dropdown) where you enter your Build Volume, the Type of Heatbed you want and if you want to have Single or Double Z-Axis. After that you find the extrusion Length for the profiles underneath the configurator and all other parts on the third Tab.
Sooo...I read that its better to take the biggest Bed Brackets possible. But i dont really get the limit there. Why isnt everyone using 45mm then? 45mm Brackets do work with a 300*300mm bed, right?! Or is it advised to take smaller ones?
45 wont get you any play +/- in case you need to adjust. if you plan on around 35 ish then you have some room to play with brackets.
Does anyone know where I can buy the extrusions in black in Europe? Preferably Germany or Scandinavia.
Thanks.
Why a 24V power supply instead of a 12V? And how do I modify the ramps board so that the 24V doesnt kill the mega?
Go with the MKS v1.5, uses 24v out the box and saves the moding needed on the ramps board. if you can stretch to it go for a 16 or 32 bit board instead.
24v heated beds are much "fast" to reach final temp. Also, 12v applied to a 300x300 bed would take forever and the max temp it can reach would be around 75 degrees.
Check YouTube, Scott has made a video for ramps conversion. Also, you could use a buck converter, that's what I did.
stumbled on this aliexpress store. They have most of the components but have terrible shipping prices to the US.
https_://www.aliexpress.com/store/2062033?spm=2114.12010108.0.0.5acd7045xVoAt2
The excel sheet you can find under Thing Files or just download all files!
Where are the Excel for the length of the extrusions?
Or do one of you know how long the 3030 are for the original 300x300x300 ?
Heyho,
I have an Idea for the extruder but im not sure if its easy to implement.
Can there be a third Belt that will drive the extruder? It would need some software changes to move slightly faster than the printhead but it is doable, when im right.
This would eliminate the need for a bowden extruder but still keep the printhead lightweight.
Someone out there who want to try it? Or any thoughts on such a system?
I am on my way to build one Hypercube double Bed Steppers with a prototype of 5 in and 1 out mixing Extruder.
Does anybody know how to steer 9 Steppers at once? Five for the Extruder and four for the Printer moovement.
Which Mainboard you guys recommend to me?
A rumba board has 6 steppers may be you can ad this https://www.reprap.me/stepper-expander-x3.html you have 9!
https://forum.e3d-online.com/threads/adding-a-fourth-extruder-to-the-rumba.1892/ more info
https://reprapworld.com/products/electronics/ultratronics/ultratronics_pro_v1_0/ an other board with standard 4 extruders.
info about smoothie board and multiple extruders http://smoothieware.org/multiple-extruders
So and now go figure it out and report back when it works ;-)
Does anyone know if the printed parts have some tolerance already? or I'll need to add them myself?
no need to add tolerances, print them with a minimal of 5 perimeters to make them strong!
I just built one with PLA. Since other sources recommend PET-G or ABS, so I would think that these are to spec since I've never read anything about changing the tolerances. Join and ask the FB group and ask your question for more feedback.
Hello. Can I use these parts with 2020 aluminium extruded frame without modification?
these parts are for 3030 in the remixes section there are 2020 parts
when the X carriage is pushed to the end of the Y rods... towards both the ends it faces some resistance and gets pushed back to the center... this is when trying to do it manually... is this ok??
hey, will start to build the hypercube evolution soon,
wouldn't be 2 LM8LUU better instead of 4 LM8UU for the X carriage?
You can find them on the Facebook Group for the Evo.
HI what is the overall size of the printer once complete with a build area of 300x300.
thankyou
Going by the build lengths...
X is about 420 mm (width)
Y is about 410 mm (depth)
Z is about 500 mm (height)
Hi to everyone that is interested in building this printer.
Scott has done a great job on this project
Just to help this community happy I am posting a link from the same seller that Scott is giving the list of the parts that he gets them from.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Extra-Fee-for-3D-Printer/32815806270.html?spm=2114.12010108.1000013.1.6ba437efreVYkx&traffic_analysisId=recommend_2088_1_90158_shotall&scm=1007.13339.90158.0&pvid=99727802-68f2-495a-ad72-f5abd39cd089&tpp=1
The seller has shipped two kits to the UK by accident and I am trying to help him find a customer for that order so that it doesn't have to be shipped back.
You can also find my eBay listing with a special offer price for these two kits!!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142646487055
or you can look up the sellers listing on aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2-kits-of-BOM-for-HyperCube-Evolution-Dual-Z-Axises-Black-300-300-300-Free-shipping/2062033_32849943401.html?spm=2114.12010615.0.0.3d70ce126xBBCP
Hello there
I made the 3d printer but I did not have the software installed I could mail the documents and the software installation steps [email protected]
the V6 extruder does not fit tight in the bracket and hence moves in circular pattern. anyone else faced this issue?
I have the same problem. The V6 fit snuggly into the Extruder Mount but the Retainer does not push on it so it's loose and can wiggle and turn when assembled.
Building a Hypercube Evolution for myself i have ended up becoming a distributor and stocking huge inventory for Aluminum profiles (2020/3030/4040) :-)
I can now ship 2020 or 3030 anodized aluminum profiles (struts) cut in any size (as per your requirements) along with all the inner L brackets and corner brackets with fasteners as an entire ready to assemble kit.
Shipping is available around the world.
The printer frame i am building is X=470mm, Y=500mm, Z=600mm. Massive i suppose :-)
hi....
actually my frame is as follows :
Z= 600mm
Y=500mm
X=470mm
and i now want to use the 214x214 bed... .so wondering what bracket to use....
Hello :)
I'm looking to start a kit; how much would it be to the UK for a 300mm^3?
hello. thank you for the enquiry. :-)
is that the frame size or the print size?
if you want achieve a print size in X by Y by Z in millimeters pls. share that so i can calculate and send you the frame size accordingly.... and then i will follow it up with the commercials.
awaiting reply :-)
Here you find some bed brackets that are variable if those not fit ................ you have to design them your self.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2448362
You will have to do your math or measure it!
thank you for the reply,
will surely need to do the math as you correctly said... anyways... i appreciate your help in giving those few leads.. :-)
Wish you a very Happy New Year!!
You forgot to add 10mm Xcarriage
to everyone: i know that there is a remix, but i want to use the one scott designed. i will only use remix as last way out
So....being as I live in an area where aluminum extrusion is near impossible to find. Has anyone thought of using 2x2 wooden beams to build the frame or something more easily accessible?
Depends whee you source. You can search for "Hypercube Evolution BOM" on Aliexpress. There is one seller providing almost full BoM
Dear fellas, I wonder about the rails diameter.. is it possible and reliable to use the same diameter for all axis x, y and z. For example, 8mm for all axis? I am thinking to build it for a volume of 400x400x400..
On that lenghth I think it is to thin, espacially on the y-axis.
what would be the problem if i use 8mm linear rails?
For the standard hevo I think it is oke. For a longer y axis it will bent due the weight of the x axis train.
Thanks for the response, I gonna adopt probably 10mm.
I just bought the L Brakets for 3030 but they dont fit? Do I need a different type?
That depends what type extrusion parts you have. The l brackets on the thing detail page are for B type extrusion. So check your specs of the extrusion parts!
Hi, is there any trick to align the dual z axes so the tray runs smoothly? I find it really hard to align the holder for the rods as one can hardly reach the vertical screw due to the top frame beam.
If your build is precise as well as all parts, it should all fit perfectly.
Just a heads up, if you're in the US you can get most of the hardware off of Amazon for the same price or cheaper including shipping.
There is a problem with the spreadsheet when trying to select dual z axis i get 509 errors on the extrusion
there is also a BOM on aliexpress with everything https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Extra-Fee-for-3D-Printer/2062033_32815806270.html?spm=2114.12010615.0.0.4a63eb0fFnFGvE not sure if the OP will support this listing?
Are there a parametric version of the Fusion 360 files that allows to update the build volume etc?
must be downloadable so i can import and mess arround with things
Hi Scott.
Firstly I would like to thank you for all the effort you've put into this. It is people like you that allows the idea of a "maker community" to work.
Some questions:
- I am struggling to use your Excel Spreadsheet which drives your Inventor parameters. Whenever I try to adjust the build size, I am met with a bunch of broken constraints and sketches. I have also tried to modify the Excel Sheet to reflect what is calculated in the Excel Configurator Sheet, but this also does not update the parts correctly. Could you perhaps upload a commented version as you did with the Configurator Sheet?
- I have previously played around with Tech2C's design and was wondering about something. Would it not be possible to move the motors to the outside of the frame and have the belts run on either side of the uprights? This would free up a bit of space on the inside. I have attached an image of what I meant.
Cheers,
Martin
Have you figured this out yet? I am wanting to do the same thing.
i have inventor troubles too
when i change the excel sheet and save nothing happens in inventor.... and i dont know how to force an update
even if i close an reopen the double Z assembly nothing happens
i have attached the image of the dimensions i have selected.
i plan to build a printer for 300x300 bed size with Z axis to be 400mm but this bed is still to come and till then i want to use this with a 214x214 mm bed.
i am confused as 2020 extrusion for Y axis is showing just 128mm cut length and also which mounting bracket to select. This is the most confusing part of the build which is taking my most time in calculations.
You must choose the 300 size bed and try to fit the smaller size bed on it with customized bedbrackets. Otherwise when you get your 300 size bed it will not fit and you have to order new 2020 parts. Ask Biggsis he did the same as you want to do.
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:338255
hi....
actually my frame is as follows :
Z= 600mm
Y=500mm
X=470mm
and i now want to use the 214x214 bed... .so wondering what bracket to use....
thank you rampetampertje for the suggestion....
Hello, is there any tutorial for this? I’m trying to build one but I’m stuck on x carriage, I have seen Scott video but there are some missing steps, I don’t know screw lengs and I can’t see how belt clamps and belt itself is mounted
Thanks for the link. It appears to be view only. I would like to be able to download it so I can make a few changes.
Would you be willing to share it? Thanks
Hello did you work out a way to make changes i am also wanting to do the same. thankyou
I was looking for a design for a 300x300 platform in a format I could import. The link from zjxlsti is view only. I Started a new design in Fusion 360 and imported parts I liked from this and other designs and modified or created new parts where i needed to. SCOTT_3D did a great job and you can import his Solidworks design into Fusion 360.
Guys, How is it possible to obtain 30cm build volume in height with 300mm z screw? Can anyone explain it to me?
or just buy longer aluminum extrusions. if you know how whole frameworks, you can pretty much design whatever you like. but build the height around Z rods (you can get) is good way to do it. normally 400mm is common to buy. so cut your extrusions accrodingly
motor with 400mm integrated screw? I found only one on aliexpres, and of course on pololu for 50$ + shipping half of the price...
It's not possible, I think. Z-screw should be approx. 30mm longer than needed Z-travel lenght (like it is said in "thing details"). I have 300mm Z-screw and my build volume in Z-direction is ~270mm...
So did You lower Your hot end and all staff to get 270mm...? Hypercube is like Ultimaker You cant start printing lower with head its always on the same height, so how You get 270mm? do You have shorter aluminium extrusion in 3cm in height?
i have single axis HCEvo. Frame is made from 3030 extrusion and bed 2020 extrusion. At least in my case it depends which way around you put Z axis nut bracket and which kind of bed brackets, springs, etc. you will use.. The rest is assembling and trying how to maximize the travel lenght...
So Your Z motor is mounted upside down? This is one and only possibility to get 270mm of print height with 300mm lead screw. Can You show some pictures?
Would it be possible to get the full assembly as a step file? I am not able to open the inventor files.
Thanks
I have an obtuse request... can you tell me where I can go to get the 3030 printed corners you used in your prototype photos?
You seem to have printed these without the slot tabs in them, meaning no supports, and I'd like to do the same.
Thanks!!!
Wir haben in unserem Forum einen neuen Bereich für den Hypercube 3D geschaffen.
https://www.anet3d-forum.de/
https://www.anet3d-forum.de/viewforum.php?f=74
Weitere tolle Beiträge zum Thema 3D Druck und Aktionen sowie Coupon Code findet ihr im Forum !
where can I find the solidworks files for the Hypercube evolution assembly?. I can not open the inventor files.
thank you.
Hi guys. I'm facing an issue with my extruder motor. I bought the one mentioned in the BOM (42 1.7A) but the extuder skips steps all the times. I already adjusted the current, lowered the steps rate and the speed but it keeps doing the same all the time...
Did anybody else faced this?
Any idea on how to fix it?
Thanks!
I have same problem. Solved it with a geared extruder. I use this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172854 or you can choose one of the many Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder variants...
Thanks Timppa!
Actually a geared extruder seems to be the best option here... I could improve my extruder by increasing printing temperature. It seems to be something wrong on the set up of my temperature sensor. Anyway, I'll print the drakon extruder and get rid of the annoying skippig steps.
Help, I need some help. I have a 3d printer that I set up following some videos on the internet. The printer from time to time stopped connecting to the computer via the pronterface and the repeater. All the ports are configured normally on the computer and the arduino, already I switched of computer but nevertheless does not work more, what could have happened? Help me please.
I canot find the Y_Carriage_Clamp_Diam8mm_LM10UU_1.0.stl, i choose the
Y_Carriage_xDia8_LM10UU_1.0 and i need the other peace to complete but i can't find. I need one with the same measures.
When using openoffice calc, The Vlookup for the cell c24-c27 are invalid, so I changed it to make it work.
=VLOOKUP($Configuration.$G$15;$Configuration.$N$6:$R$11;2;0)
=VLOOKUP($Configuration.$G$15;$Configuration.$N$6:$R$11;3;0)
=VLOOKUP($Configuration.$G$15;$Configuration.$N$6:$R$11;4;0)
=VLOOKUP($Configuration.$G$15;$Configuration.$N$6:$R$11;5;0)
Hi.
With excel creator you can do bigger device. Anyone tried to build a bit smaller? I want to build 250^3. Extrusions will be ok? And how about printed parts and lead screws?
cheers
I'm planning to build HEVO with 400x400 heated bed area with dual Z (ordered all parts except rods and extrusion).
I heard about vibration issue on the larger bed. is 3030 extrusion going to be enough for 400x400x700? or 400x400x600?
Thank you in advance.
Hi,
I would know if you have this project in 300x300x400 print area... or if can development or upgraded this..
use the configurator to build the dom as per your needs
Hi, I'm looking for a direct drive extruder with bltouch for hypercube evolution.
I love the prusa extruder. Someone has an adaptation with bltouch for hypercube ?
Thank you
can I replace 2020 extrusion used for the build platform frame to 3030 extrusion?
is the width and depth of the 3030 extrusion the width and depth in the spread sheet. and how many of each length are needed.
I have finally found a place where I might be able to get the T-Slots, but they only come in 2020 and 4040... How would this build be affected by 4040 extrusions?
I had no problem getting 3030 from aliexpress. I actually ordered a custom BOM from a supplier that I got fedex pretty fast.
AliExpress will deliver to South Africa however the cost of shipping is more than the parts themselves so it becomes a tad bit expensive and that is before taking any landed costing into account.
@TheTWIGS, you can get it here in SA: http://moduasm.co.za. I think they are in PE and ship to major centers in 3 days.
Prices are reasonable.
Thanks for the info Pierre,
Have been on their site and they don't have 20x20, only variants, so will give them a call later today.
Appreciate it man.
Hey there guys,
Still trying to source all the parts, but hopefully soon I will be able to build this beauty.
I just want to find out, does this need to be a direct drive, or will a boden fed sysem work?
Very new to 3D Printing
IMO this design lends itself to a bowden setup and indeed appears to be setup for a J-head as designed.
I will be using a E3D V6 head fed but two remote extruders into a Y-adaptor.
going with dual-Z drive and about to start the build, most parts are in hand now.
I want to use 10mm Z rods tho as I have a bunch already.
I am not much of a designer, are there any cad files out there for all this so I can make some changes to the Z parts?
I can fudge my way around in sketchup but importing STL files in sketchup leaves a lot of random geometry to clean up :(
Found this remix br Rodsawhite
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2586139
10mm Z axis remix. Problem solved!!!
On the Y_Carriage_xDia10_LM10UU file it looks like the hex nut pockets for the X rod clamps are not centered on the screw hole?
I need some help troubleshooting an issue I am having with the movement of the X axis. when the X axis moves it causes the Y axis to shake back and fourth about 1-2 mm which is causing my prints to have wavy walls.
Hi guys, I bought a hot 24V 400W bed for my printer, how do I make my ramps 1.4 work at 24V, with the nema 17 17 3.3 V ??
IMO a 400w bed will pull too much thru the on board mosfet of the ramps 1.4 so get an external mosfet!!
no need to worry about the motor voltage as the stepsicks handle that. BUT YOU MUST MOD THE RAMPS TO HANDLE 24V!!!
External mosfet like this one:
Hi Fabio Mine is working at 24 volt,
De-solder the fuse which says 16 volts on it and replace it by an automotiv fuse. Look in youtube.
You need 24 volts fans and a 24 volt hotend.
My heated bed was getting his current via an external MOSFET board. It would burn the original mosfet on the Ramps.
You have to power your Arduino seperatly and desolder the diode which provides the Arduino from 5 volt.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS LET ME KNOW
Of course you can do it with a 12 and 24v powersupply. In that case only the 24 volts go to the external mosfet unit and everything else is powered by 12 volt
Do you have to use the 24V hot end? For the fans can you just use the fan extender module? In process of building mine, so you response is appreciated!
You can use everthing on 12 volt, I never used the fan extender module. It depends what components you have. My experience is that is easier to go on everything with 24 volts but you can use the bed on 24 volts and the rest on 12. You need 2 powersupplies in that case. The bed on 12 volt takes ages to warm up to 80 degrees and higher
To anyone thinking of joining the Hypercube Evolution Facebook group linked in the description: don't do it. Only fascist administrators are present there. No discussion, just dictatorship of the few. Just join any of the other CoreXY printer groups, it doesn't have to be an EVO group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1871049783171141/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/
Glad I'm not the only one to think that the Evo group isn't run very well and what is it with the pathetic use of CAPITALS in one users replies to genuine questions and posts. Real shame
Hi Scott,
awesome design and thanks for sharing the .ipt files! I'm planning to adapt the design for use in an UM2-style composite case.
Just one question: Is there any particular reason why you chose to have the xy steppers in the front rather than in the back?
Cheers!
I am wondering if somone uses the 200mm x 300mm heatbed? Maybe there is an updated BOM out there... Or does someone know a 300mm x 300mm heatbed?
Here is one: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:369828
My prusa i3 has one that i want to harvest for the hypercube evo........ but first I have to print all the parts on it.
And I'am thinking of maybe to buy a 300X300 bed for de hypercube evo and build that with 3030 extrusion and build a 2020 extrusion one with the 300x200 bed. Aaaagghhh dilemma
MK2A is 300x200, but you can make you own build plate on the Excel file and select it instead of the ones already available
hi, how many space here https://youtu.be/iKh8EUGYfAU?t=2m38s btw Z axis profile and XY axis profile and also is already calculated by the configurator?
Thanks
Good day All,
Trying to source all the materials required. I have the electronics, and arranged for someone to print the required 3D Printed items.
I am trying to put together a 300x300x300 Hypercube with :
Build Platform MK2A 300x300
Bed Bracket 20
Z-Axis Single (will upgrade to double in time)
X-Axis Shaft Diam 8
Y-Axis Shaft Diam 10
Z-Axis Shaft Diam 12
I am also changing the Frame Z 3030 to 550mm so that I have space below to eventually place electronics below, but will plan this out later.
What I need to know is if I can get a better understanding of the quantities of screws that I would need. From the research that I have done via the BOM and Aliexpress I am not getting proper values, especially when it comes to the M3 screws.
Unfortunately getting these can be a tad difficult here in SA and can become expensive getting them all at a qty of 100 for each type.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
I have also selected
Hi Guys, I'm trying to add an MKS TFT28 screen to my RAMPS but I can't get any communication between the printer and the screen. Screen boots up, RAMPS boots up, both have the same baud rate but nothing, I can't control the printer neither see temperature info...
I've tried two different screens against two different MEGA/RAMPS and always the same...
Somehow, if I connect the screen and the USB at the same time, I can see temperature info in the TFT... It seems to be some kind of issue with the TX/RX...
I'm using straight 12V supply to the screen, but the same PS for the whole system.
Did anyone else experience something like this?
Thanks!
Hi man, thanks for your reply. Actually I already read that forum (and pretty much every forum in the web) but no one mentions the same problem I have... It seems to be really easy for everybody to get this screen working...Everybody but me... Haha.
Hello,
I want to use a Prusa Research MK42 heated bed. The dimensions are as follows: 254mm (X) * 235mm (Y) and the hole spacings are 209mm on both X and Y.
According to the calculator, I need to use a bed bracket smaller than 15mm.
Can someone please upload a 10mm version of the bed bracket?
Thanks.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2448362
Maybe this remix will do.
Hello to all. I am starting to gathering the components to build the HEVO. Since I am in the US I am looking to buy the extrusions from misumiusa.com to save shipping costs. However, the prices for the additional hardware are much more than buying from Aliexpress. Does anyone know if the hardware listed in the BOM will fit the 3030 extrusions from misumiusa.com? I would hate to buy it and find out that I can only use their hardware.
Thank you for the help as I am sure that I will be searching these comments and facebook for additional answers.
everything I have bought from china worked with misumi.
Thank you for the reply. I have ordered them and they are on the way.
I have Autodesk Inventor, how do I change the model parametricly to get the size I want?
Good day,
I am really sorry to bother but unfortunately I only have NEMA 17 60mm motors. I have seen from the BOM that you are using that the NEMA 17 motors that you have used, and thus measured for are 40mm, thus there would a 20mm loss on the z-axis if I use this motor.
WIth that said, could I simply add 20mm to the Frame Z extrusions (from 500mm to 520mm) and the same for the Z axis linear and threaded rods?
Thanks for any assistance you are able to give.
im not ome to look at mine but I think the limit to fit without modifying brackets is 48mm steppers. the Y rod holders might need to be moved up and the Z rod holders might need to be made taller. I could be wrong but off the top of my head that's what im thinking.
Yes sure that is now problem.
Look at this made hypercube evolutions they are also different builds.
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:369303
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:371951
I'd like to build a super small version of this and seen that the calculator does not allow for anything smaller then 210mm. I have a 120mm 12v silicon heater i would like to use to build a small version of this. Would it work to just adjust the mk2 bed to 125mm x 125mm and build plate 135mm x 135mm
As well would it be acceptable to use pancake nema 17's instead of the full size ones?
As well do I need to use 3030 or can 2020 be used for the entire unit since it will be so small. Are the parts specific to 3030?
I cannot seem to get 3030 where I am at. still trying to source it, but it's proving difficult.
Has anyone looked at 4040?
I ordered everything at www.motedis.com. You can order everything to the exact size.
Unfortunately they won't deliver to me as I am in South Africa
Is it possible to add calculation of T8 screw length into calculation table? Or remove current constant value, it is confusing.
I just have two 8mm steel rods and IGUS bearings, so can I use this rods for the X axis if I plan 475mm long? It should be 100mm longer than the original... not very much I think.
Hy, thank you for that nice thing and all the detailed informations ! What kind of filament you prefer for the parts. I like to make it in PETG HGlas, Do you think that will be a good idea. IN ABS it does't work on my old 3d printer.
Thank you for helping me.
BR
Marcus
Petg is the standard material so you are good with that. I'am printing it in ABS+(esun) on my prusa i3 and enclosed my printbed with a foam enclosure(5 mm depron).
Hello,
Note: I am new to 3d printing and these are some of my noob questions.
I am building a modified version of this hypercube and I want to make sure I am doing things right. I am thinking about using a 300x200mm heated bed. for the bed itself, is a pcb and aluminum sheet with insulation such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/300x200mm-Aluminum-Heated-Bed-Build-Plate-3D-Printer-RepRap-Prusa-i3-Full-Kit-/321998961595?hash=item4af8a23bbb:g:sA0AAOSwrFJZyU-3 be sufficient? Will a single z axis be able to support/move the bed and if so, what type of nema 17 motor will it require? If you recommend using dual z axis, how is the alignment? Also, any advice on using tmc 2100 stepper drivers? I am thinking about using these stepper drivers https://www.reprap.me/stepstick-tmc2100.html Will they use the same gcode as the a4988 drivers? Also, If I were to use igus bearings https://www.reprap.me/drylinr-igus-rj4jp-01-10-10mm-linear-bearing.html can I still use steel rods or do I have to use aluminum. I am considering using carbon fiber for the x gantry, does anyone have experience with cutting carbon fiber. How do these belts http://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-GATES-6mm-2GT-GT2-RF-Fiber-Glass-Reinforced-Rubber-Timing-Belt-for-3D-Printer-/141938661911?hash=item210c341a17:g:7IIAAOSwSzdXBOUN compare the polyurethane belts everyone is using. Does anyone have experience with a Radds 1.5 and arduino due configuration? How does that compare to the beaglbone and replicape combo? Has anyone run octoprint on a beaglebone, while using it as a controller board for a 3d printer? Can 24v psu run the stepper drivers at a higher speed while maintaining the same accuracy? Final question for now, how much does the weight of the x gantry affect print speed? Second to last question, does a higher holding torque motor mean higher speeds? I am trying to find ways to move the xgantry faster, which would result in faster printing speeds. If I were to use aluminum vs carbon rods, could I still get 200mm/s+ print speeds?
Thank you so much for taking the to read my questions
300x200 bed - sure it'll be fine. Keep in mind its a 12V heatbed so you will need a beefy power supply (i.e. 12V 40A) and some very thick power wiring, like 10AWG or so.
Single Z axis - I wouldn't skimp on this, use a dual Z axis IMO. It's much more stable especially for larger format printers. If your 'long hanging' side is the 300mm side then definitely don't use a single Z. I have two HCEvos with dual Z axis and alignment isn't an issue. It holds well.
NEMA17 motor for Z (and X/Y) - most will be ok, not the tiny ones but the ones that tend to be 40-48mm thick will have ample torque.
TMC2100 - I haven't used these but I know people like them for their high microstep interpolation to make things quiet. That said I don't have any issues using simple A4988s with my printers.
Igus Bearings - I use these on my X axis along with 10mm carbon fibre rods and it's fine. I use standard LM10/LM12 linear bearings for my Y and Z rods, which are all steel. There is some data on the Igus web site about the performance and longevity of their bushings on various different types of rods. Just don't use steel bearings on an aluminium rod as it'll cut it up.
Cutting carbon fibre - use hand tools, like a hacksaw, with a particulate dust mask. Don't cut all from one side, go "around" a few cuts at a time. They're actually relatively easy to cut compared to solid steel (especially hardened steel!)
Belts - go the steel belted belts, there's little reason to cheap out and go for fibreglass reinforced belts. The HCEvo is a CoreXY mechanism and one of the few pitfalls of this design is that it's quite picky about belt tension and stretch.
Arduino Due - DUEs are a good cheap option to get 32 bit processing on an HCEvo. I am using an Arduino Due with an AZSMZ "Smart RAMPS" board (available from Aliexpress and eBay). I like it, it's basically like using an Arduino Mega + RAMPS, except you need a different AZSMZ display (also available at a decent price from above).
About the DUEs themselves, many have a bug where they need the reset button pressed before they'll boot. The fix is to find an "R3-E" model of the DUE, or do some tiny soldering to add a resistor to the board.
24V PSU on steppers - increasing the voltage to the steppers ends up increasing their torque. They'll step the same speed, just with more grunt.
Weight of X gantry on speed/accuracy - it does a lot, look at the "This is Y" video on YouTube by Tech2C for a demonstraion.
Torque vs print speed - I guess, but 3D printing isn't particularly stressful on stepper motor torque, the extruder motor being one big exception. You will need a beefier extruder motor if you up the speed a lot, and/or use a geared extruder.
Using light X gantry rods is a way to save a lot of weight. I have run my printer at 200mm/s doing an enlarged Ultimaker Robot for shits and giggles, and it coped just fine. I doubt the extruder motor enjoyed it though. A more sane printing speed for me is around 80-120mm/sec.
Thank you very much for your reply. I will buy my parts soon. Any experience with purchasing from reprap.me? Also, is the firmware provided by scorr3d good for the due and radds/azsmz combo or is there another place I have to go to get that gcode/firmware?
Hello,
I am looking at building a very large version of this printer. We are talking about 650x650x650mm large. So massive, but my problem is that this would make the linear rods have a length of 800mm, 760mm, and 750mm. So if I did this steel shafts wouldn't work right? Would carbon fiber rods work if I used the IGUS bearings or would they defect as well? Or should I look into a system like the D-Bot? I like that this printer is more well developed but before I go drop 900 dollars on parts, I wanna check if they are actually gonna work first.
Thanks,
Taylor Dettling
Hi guys,
can I use the GT2 16T idlers (teeth and no teeth) instead of 20T idlers (and for sure also the pulleys)?
Because at this moment I can't buy the 20T model because out of stock, and plus the 16T can give more precision to the system I think.
Hi,
i am also in the process of upgrading to the evolution, did the 16T idlers and pulleys work out for you?
I think you can as long as you keep the same ratio for both pulleys and idlers. Of course you need to set up your firmware accordingly too. Regarding precision, you're right, using 16th pulleys give you a slightly better precision (10 micron instead of 12.5 micron).
Hi guys. I've bought a 300x300 Mk2a heat bed (not the dual power one). Does anybody now if it can work with 24V PS? I checked the R between the cables and it seems to be a bit low for me...
Scott, hello! Fine job, great ideas! In what CAD you work? can you share this files too? Whan change axis to y ans x to 12mm shaft , and z axis to 16 mm.
Hi. If you download the full file package, there you can find the ipt files in order to remix them.
Hello good afternooon, i have the same problem as the Dbswans i printed the picies with 8mm, and i need x carriage to use lm10uu bearing with ~15mm.
Found this one going to give it a shot later tonight
Hypercube Evolution X carriage 10mm found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2546995
is there a 10mm X carriage ? sigh printed only one i seen and its 8mm version :-(
Does anyone know of a cheap place to source the 3030 extrusions? AliExpress is about $150 to ship whats needed (6 meters) to the US. Also, has anyone built the main frame using 2020? It would be nice to have the option built into the calculator excel sheet. I have a bunch of it lying around that could be put to use. Thanks in advance!
misumi usa is where i ordered mine $80 shipped to michigan 300x300x300 version https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/mech/M1500000000/?searchFlow=results2category&KWSearch=Aluminum%20Extrusion
I would use 8020.net if you are in the states. I'm in Canada and just ordered it all from Aliexpress because there are literally no suppliers here that do 3030 extrusion.
If you do go the aliexpress route I found that if you order a larger number of packages with a small number of items in each you can get better shipping rates. In total my frame and the rods will cost about $200 US.
I just looked up the extrusions on 8020.net and it would cost about $80 for the same amount of material that AliExpress wanted $150 for. Thank you very much for your help!
No problem, I just wish they shipped to Canada. It would have saved me a ton of money.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559724
for my bed i needed this. made by myself, but all credit goes to scott3D
Can someone explain the difference between all the options for bed brackets? I'm going to likely be using this bed, so what would be the recommended size?: https://reprapchampion.com/products/3d-printer-heated-hot-bed-pcb-mk2a-300x300mm-pcb-24v-360watt-large-size-reprap?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=12137585606&gclid=CjwKCAjw3rfOBRBJEiwAam-GsNgCAQx-UijVoy-uv65Vu5jVvwtcSu1wIkRvFVtD3d0CORLREhtPDxoC-7sQAvD_BwE
The link to the heatbed is down, there are so many clones anyone know a reliable vendor for a MK2a 300x300x30 Heatbed? Thanks in advance
Check this website https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds?page=3
I've bought parts from them few times - they ship the same day from warehouse in Florida.
BOM needs updating. calls for 8x 3030 Corner brackets, but for dual Z, you need 12.
hi scott3D for info X_Carriage_1.0.stl have issues : hole is missing on one side for optical sensor plug, the hole on the other side for the sensor is to small seem that we have to unsolder the connector as describe in video. Last issue is the hole for insert who retain the head they are to big
Dod you solve the issue with extruder mount and lack of left hole?
I already own some Nena 17, it is possible to use some Shaft Coupling instead of buying the "NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8"?
Yes sure, ad some length for z axis. Search in the hypercube evolution group it is all ready asked there.I looked for you here it is.
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-evo/topic:16568
I am looking to build a custom 500 x 500 x 500 dual Z hypercube evo I am currently making a BOM for it. I am stuck up alittle on how to choose a bed bracket. Can someone explain/recommend me a bed bracket that will work with my printer?
Thanks.
Hello and first of all let me say thank you for all the time that has gone into this. I have a question about the excel file. when I was doing the config for dual Z. I noticed the parts list has it marked for 2 pieces for all Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket. Do I only need 2 each of the "Double" version though?? Since I'm using a Dual Z setup? Also the Z_Nut_Bracket_T10_Nut. What is that model for? Sorry if that has been asked before.
Thanks in advance.
Curtis
For dual Z:
Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_Left/Right are at the bottom; there are two of each or 4 in total.
Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_Double_Z_Left/Right are at the top; also two of each or 4 in total.
Z_Nut_Bracket_T10_Nut would be for a 10mm lead screw nut vs the standard 8mm.
Thoughts on the prospects of mounting a small spindle, or mini router to the X carriage for some basic CNC engraving or light milling?
Forget about it.. the X axis rod arrangement isn't stiff enough to handle a spindle.
I have a Shapeoko 2 CNC machine that's open source and freely available (albeit rather old in the scheme of things), there's a somewhat printable CNC machine on THingiverse called the Root 3 if you're interested. I haven't built one but it looks pretty good and has a mature community around it.
Hi, I'm looking for an idea for the construction of a PickAndPlace home machine. In machines such head moving speeds are about 10x larger than typical 3D printers. Therefore it is very important that the displaced mass (head and X axis) is as small as possible. That's why I'm interested in a construction like HyperCube. And here is my question: what is the maximum speed of the head movement I can get with such a project without losing accuracy and shortening the service life? Of course I will not print 3D.
Suggested minor improvement to the Y-carriage.
Although it looks neat and tidy, the two stands of timing belt between the motor and the Y-carriage do not need to be parallel for XY-core to work correctly. This means it is possible to move the non-toothed idler pulley in the direction of the Y-rail. Since the position of the non-toothed idler pulley determines the x-size of the Y-carriage, making this move reduces the x-size of the Y-carriage and so increases the X print size.
Suggested improvement:
- Remove the piece of plastic between the non-toothed idler pulley and the belt hole.
- Move the axel hole for the non-toothed pulley towards the Y-rail. I think a movement of 8mm should be possible.
- Reduce x-dimension of carriage by the same amount that the pulley was moved.
This reduction gives a useful addition of 16mm to the X print size.
Hi, it really a nice project!
But I wasn't recommended to put belt's strain on the X slider directly in long term, it will break someday.
I find a way to solve this problem, and it is really easy to adjust tightness.
https://imgur.com/a/op22F
Dear SCOTT_3D there is a big issue with stl in 10mm size the hole are 10,4mm big this is a lot to much for a correct calibrated printer ...
rods are not fixed even with screw screwed to max.... all my print to waste :-(
for example : XY_Idler_Mount_1.1.stl
XY_Stepper_Mount_1.1.stl....
Great Thanks for the links i will win some time instead of redraw it !
There are some in the remixes. I've done one myself for use with carbon rod and igus bushings. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538263
Don't used 10mm steel rods. They're too heavy, and will introduce ringing on your prints.
Hi, nice work! I wonder if you could add an x-carriage for my preferred sintered bronze bearings. Those are available for diameter 8 rods in different dimensions. The outer diameters are either 10/11/12 or 14.
Could you upload a modified version for one of these outer diameters? 12 would be fine for me.
Thanks a lot in advance, greetings from Germany
This one I made for igus bushings. The OD of those is 12mm. Should work for you. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538263
The hole is modeled at 12.3, and on my printer fits the 12mm OD igus very well.
Hi,
Could somebody post, how to wire endstops and how to configure them ?
I´m using for X and Y optical and for Z axis NPN inductive proximity sensor.
And at least - Repetier FW
Thanks
Best regards and happy printing !
Lukas
copy the V S G voltage signal ground. match the label on the boards
Got working.
And could somebody post Slic3r setting or Simplify 3D settings ?
Thanks
Lukas
I missing a calculation for the rods at the Steppers in the excel sheet
i wanna build a Hypercube with Build vol 300x300x500 but i dont know how long these rods should be
Why are the holes in the Y Carriage for the LM10UU 8mm size, 8.4mm dia? They are way to big when printed. Can't clamp the 8mm rods in the plastic parts. Do you have some files that I can modify? Can change the stl files. step files could work.
Why doesn't the hole in the double z left and right bracket go all the way through? You can't bolt it to the extrusion it the hole doesn't go through. Maybe you did this for a reason?
hi there, I have wanted to use this design for my first corexy printer but any way to make the x and y gantry for lm12uu as well? I had built the old mega prusa i3 before and have all 12mm rods that can be used on this. I will keep looking in case I missed a remix or such thanks.
prusa system can easly manage 12mm rods but not the hypercube
12mm steel rods for the X axis will be much too heavy. People even use carbon fiber rods on X to reduce weight...
Apologies if this has been asked before. This looks like a great upgrade. I don't yet have a 3D printer so looking for a good base printer to start with. I see the Anet A8 mentioned often below. Is this upgrade mainly for the A8 or does this also work with other other printers. Any recommendations for a beginner? I'm pretty good at building stuff so constructing from a kit should be fine.
You can build this printer from scratch.
BUT:
- You will need someone to print some parts (easy enough online or in the FB group can help)
- You will have a better understanding of the operation if you had a 3D printer before
- If you are hands on, this is a really fun challenge
- You may need some assistance with the electronics (but this is independent of if you had a 3D printer before or not
Thanks @chanders. Makes sense that I attempt a kit build first - i can then use to print the parts for the a Hypercube.
Didn't want to say it :)
Check out the Wanhao Duplicator I3. Its an excellent printer with TONS of mods and owners
off question, what is that filament in some of the shots? the green/yellowish neon looking one?
Thanks!
yes, but probably with many troubles. TMC2208 is easiest option or LV8729 if you want to use any 32bit board.
I don't see why not. They are good drivers. I did read somewhere that there was some whining in the motors but I would think that that was due to the unique motor/driver combination and not the printer design.
I used the HyperCube Evolution configuration spreadsheet with my preferred travel, and then added 60mm (2x 30mm widths) to the X and Y beam dimensions it recommends to arrive at the final width. The height of the printer is the same as the length of the calculated Z beams.
Is there any list of which parts is needed and what amount of the part for a full set of parts for the printer?
3d printed parts? Have a look at the configuration spreadsheet.
Oh man, did not realize that it was more than on page on the sheet. Thanks!
I actually printed 2020 at first, got fed up with it, and then just ordered 3030. I threaded 100mm long 1mm thick single walled printed 2020 onto 5/16inch threaded rods. Everything was going fine until I decided to bring the entire batch of printed 2020 to 100°C in the oven to add a bit of ease threading in the 5/16inch threaded rods. I watched a video that said you lose a bit on the Z axis doing this baking without mention of warping. This baking warped the printed 2020 - I should have known better and tested a single piece first. Perhaps it was the single walled nature of my specific parts that induced this warping. I still finished assembling a 400mm x 400mm frame with the printed 2020 which "seems" fairly rigid yet I believe only Salvador Dali would use it as a 3D printer... My experience/exposure is assembling a single DIY 3D printer kit and have no example of what acceptable rigidity is - thus I just went ahead and ordered the 3030. I may add some thoughts on this when I've learned more. For me, the time and cost of printing the 2020 was not worth attempting to circumvent the aluminum 3030. At the very least, it gave me some experience to share. The individual 100mm PLA printed 2020 extrusion is exremely tough and rigid by the way.
Hi Scott is they're any interest to use 12mm rods on z axis in the double z axis configuration instead of using 8mm ? I have plenty off 8mm bushing and rods so I would like to use it. I don't see any reason to use 12mm because there is not effort on the rod like in the single z axis version but may be I m wrong what do you thinks of that ? Many thanks
Your logic sounds sound to me :) The only thing I would think is if you have a particularly tall version of the printer you may have some vibration at the midpoint if the printer is not no a level surface.
Classic 30x30x30 I m also thinking about mgn 12 for y to reduce number of printed part but if I continue I will have to renamed it because it will not be an evo anymore :-(
Just purchased all the parts needed for the printer. Will start printing out the remaining parts now. Can't wait to get started on building this!
Anyone experimented with print setting for the 3d parts? Also, any tips for achieving the best results?
i tried to enter a 500 x 500 bed in the excel config
so i enter 528 x 528 and 525 x 525, but no matter what bracket i select it says N/A under it
what am i doing wrong?
screenshot: http://imgur.com/a/JjCTU
i just reopened the sheet and started over... problem solved
I was just having the same issue, just err: 509. OpenOffice doesnt work, use microsoft
both libreoffice and google sheets works fine.... i think you missed my post that i reopened and it worked
Didn't miss anything, saw it and was giving out the knowledge that I acquired. Take it or leave it...
have anyone the "Z_Nut_bracket" for this dimensions ?:
http://www.motedis.com/shop/images/product_images/popup_images/3402_2.jpg
I have only Linux and Autodesk don't work here
Freecad can't read .ipt files
can me help anyone ?
I sent you a message with the file "Z Nut Braket 1.0.ipt" exported as STEP file.
Edit: I just realized that the text has been altered by the system (several "*" and "#" have been removed), so if you still need the file "Z Nut Braket.stp", let me know where to upload it, or alternatively give me an email address where I can send the file in attach (here I don't see any option to attach a file to a message).
I really love this desgin! I ordered all Parts today and going to build i as soon as the Parts arrived.
I was lucky today is Banggood Sale so i got 11% discount on almost everything:
Thank you so much for you Design!
Hi Scott , first of all -very nice work ! Hope to build this model :) One request - unfortunately I'm using older version of Inventor ( like many others) and I can't open your assembly . It may be great if you will add .STEP file so others can open and use your 3D model ( not only Inventor users, but other CAD systems also )
Anyway , great job , nice done !
Which Types of Extrusions you use ?
there are so many types ,
i figured out it could be 30x30 8 Type B but not 100% sure
but what about the 20x20 ?!?!?!
are those 20x20 6 Type B ?
Could you please Edit your BOM with those infos
The choice between Bosch and Item type profiles is probably only relevant in Europe. You want the 8mm opening for 3030s so B-type is correct. I also used B-type for 2020s. Make sure your brackets, fasteners etc match the profiles.
The link in the BOM shows a profile with an 8mm opening if you're in doubt.
Quick suggestion/question, on the y axis rod clamps in the xy mounts why is the threaded nut on the outside instead of the inside so it cant be tightened after the pulleys and motor are installed? If the nut was installed on the inside and the recess for the cap head was on the outside it would simplify assembly. Looking forward to building this once I get my extrusions in.
That was the original way they were designed but the threaded insert is next to impossible to install without melting things. Simply preassemble everything on to the Y rod and install as an assembly. Works great.
I am thinking that I would like to make this printer, but use a Plywood cube for the frame. I would like to put the motors on the outside of the cube so I can heat the chamber and not destroy the motors. do you think this would be possible. I would mount the z axis motor below the cube with the lead screw poking thru the ply wood cube.
Your thoughts would be appreciated...
Using plywood will be OK, but wood changes size and shape with moisture and heat. Heating a plywood box is probably not the best idea. I am working on rebuilding my printer and have decided to use the HyperCube design, but enclose it with Plexiglas or something similar. That will give me the rigidity of the aluminium extruded frame, but a heated enclosure for some plastics.
Will I be able to move the x/y motors outside the cube?
Hello All, sorry if this question looks stupid, but the 3d printable files have versions. which version should i use? v1.1 or 1.0 or the latest available version ? am using Lin's bom with a standard 300x300 config.
Hello Scott, great design you picked for improving. Indeed, this is one of the best coreXY belt arrangement I've seen. I'm quite amazed by the attention to detail for every part you designed. Also, I can't emphasize how happy I am that you have uploaded the source cad files, It lets me do a virtual assembly before printing the parts and that it's priceless. Thank you very much!!!
One thing I've discovered, check the "Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket". Both versions, 1.0 and 1.1 seems to be missing a hole for the M5 screw.
Keep up the good work.
Martin
Hi Martin, thanks for the kind words. In general, use the latest version of the files. Not all parts have v1.1 so you will have a mix of 1.0 and 1.0 to print.
Hola! Pudiste conseguir el perfil 3030 en BsAs? Yo rediseñé todas las piezas para 2020, pero si lo pudiera hacer en 3030 mejor... Saludos!
Hola tocayo, se que Lineartec los vende. Ni idea el precio, pero ellos trabajan los Rexroth de Bosch que es de lo mejor que se puede conseguir. Hace unos 2 años compre en Rulemanes Munro perfil 3030 pero recuerdo que me asesinaron un poco con el precio.
Por mi parte, tengo ganas de armar una maquina con cama caliente de 300x300mm y 400mm de altura; asi que si no consigo 3030, iría por los 4040 que la gente de INGIA los vende a precio razonable. Prefiero pasarme de bruto a que quede fragil. Saludos!
Gracias por el dato! Voy a chequear en Lineartec. Según estuve viendo, en 2020 para estas medidas no hay problema, la estructura es suficientemente sólida, pero de cualquier manera si pudiera hacerla en 3030 mejor. Iba a comprar el anodizado negro de INGIA, pero voy a seguir buscando el 3030.
Saludos!
Hello. whats the name of that part that looks like a puley with a bolt connected to the stepper motors??? it isn't listed in the parts and it didnt came with my 3 stepper motors
It's the
2 x GT2 Timing Pulley (20 teeth) 5mm bore for 6mm belt
Anyone else get the power supply linked in the description? I believe mine just blew up on me. No longer works, and when I shake it, some solid of thermal paste has been falling out.
The postman has dropped a few more parcels and I'm now building in earnest, but I have a question about controller electronics. I've been reading about CoreXY and 8 vs 32 bit controllers and etc. and I'm wondering how people have fared using 8 bit controllers, whether they've hit any quality or speed problems when starting to push the machine (and how fast they were going!).
EDIT: I'll be sticking with 1/16 microstepping, I'm fine with the noise and my 4 year old loves the "robot noises" :-)
If I'm going to go 32 bit, my current front runner is an Arduino Due + Smart RAMPS, running 32 bit Repetier. It's cheap, I like Repetier's no nonsense information-dense display and I'm used to the Repetier "way of doing things". Of course a DuetEthernet and PanelDue would be amazing, but it's verrrry expensive and I'm not totally sold that a touch screen is actually better than a rotary (i.e. tactile) encoder from a usability standpoint.
I've more or less discounted the MKS SBASE + TFT32 because the user interface is information-poor and looks poorly thought out.
Hi scott in your description you say that the 303030 size have some vibration bed issue.
did you mean with the only one Z axis support or 2 ??? i want to convert an prusa i3 To hypercube but i want a nice quality so should i chose a 303030 or 202030 machine size ? i will make the 2 z axis version in anycase. I would like to have a evolutive machine size so a 303030 sound good even i start with a 20*20 bed what do you think ? thanks
I'd like to build something similar to this machine but i'm hoping to use 2020 for all the extrusions as i already have a bunch sitting around. What would i have to do to the measurements to do this? Would i just add 20mm to each?
The Evolution uses 3030. The standard uses 2020 so you should just use that: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766
Hello,nice Printer.
Can you update it with normal Hex-Nuts for 8mm XY Rods?
I will make a compact Version with a Printer dimension of 340x340x440mm.
Or can i have the .step Files?
best regards
Any reason why you're not using the frame for linear motion? Could further reduce complexity using v-slot rails.
Usually more expensive to go that route, and the whole point of this build is the core-xy belt system.
when i select the Z axis to be double somehow the 12 mm Diameter Shaft length decreases and when i select the Z axis to be single the shaft length increases.... in the Excel sheet.
cannot understand why does this happen??
Look at the main pictures. The dual Z-axis uses a bar in the middle while the single Z-axis shafts go from top of the printer to the bottom
I can't check to confirm right now, but it is possible that the changed motor mounting solution requires a shorter shaft. Again, can't confirm, but it sounds possible.
Was assembling my excel sheet, pulley and belts link is dead for some reason...
Hi All,
Has anyone done a CoreXY style printer using 8020 series 15 yet? I am looking for the 3D parts to print using this standard.
Thank you!
Real 8020 Series 15 is 1.5" x 1.5" and 2020 is only 20mm or .78" x .78" series 15 could hold an elephant :)
Most of the resolution of a 3D printer is arbitrary. There is a very easy mod to increase the Z axis resolution, actually. If you drive both Z axis rods from 1 motor, you will be running on 2:1 gearing ratio, increasing the z-axis resolution. Other than that, most of the quality improvements of a 3D printer come from rigidity and consistency. the Original Prusa i3 Mk2 is a fantastic machine. Realistically, it costs around twice as much as the HEVO. The hevo has about 10cm more build area in each direction, and is a learning experience. It is quite easy to build, but going through the motions is a great way to familiarize yourself with how printers work.
It is incredibly easy! If you download the Configurator spreadsheet, you can put in the side lengths you'd like, and then select the double z axis version. It tells you all of the parts you need to change (frame and belt), and what the new lengths and quantities are.
Just make sure you pick the double z version - even the 300^3 should have it.
Thanks for you reply. i been playing with your excel doc.
i noticed it doesn't state all the parts you need. like lead screw length and type, etc.
regards
Jeremy
If you extend an axis by 100mm, extend the lead screw / rods / etc by 100mm in that direction.
These depends on your build. The standard size uses integrated motor/screws. Jump on youtube and have a look at scotts vids.
Hey everyone. Im seriously considering building this. But with a twist. I want to print the 3030 and 2020 extrusion. what do you guys think?
really print the entire length of the extrusion?? man i salute you for even thinking of doing that :-)
Yikes, it seems like you might run into an awful lot of problems. I'm not saying you shouldn't do it, but I think you should consider the following:
-
Unless the printer's going to be really small, you're going to have some trouble printing extrusions that are 400mm+
-
The extrusions are probably not going to be perfectly printed. This could affect both how well parts connect to the extrusions and how even the frame is, both of which could eventually affect the quality of your prints.
- The material itself. Aluminum extrusions are really rigid. I'd worry about the rigidity of a plastic frame, and the how well it could stand up to the stress of printing.
It seems like the cost of aluminum extrusions would be much less than how much of a pain it would be to try to print them. That being said, if you do decide to print them, I would be very curious to see how they turn out!
can i build it for the larger bed option but use the smaller one till i feel the need to just upgrade the bed in one go instead of building the entire new frame again?
yes you can, you would just need to set your 0x,0y pos of the smaller bed.
Hi,
I'm working on it as well. I have all the parts re designed for 2020 extrusion. I'll upload later today.
Please consider this is a work in progress, not mounted yet due to my extrusions didn't arrive.
He, someone send me a link yesterday with also a redesign on facebook. i have printed already some parts. But when you have uploaded it i check, many thnx
Would you mind sharing the link you received on facebook?
Hi sniperx,
this is my version for 2020 extrusion. Enjoy.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2452700
thnx men, i am looking for the blockts that use 10mm ball bearings. only need blocks for igus and they need to be pressed in with 40 kilograms force, kan you make them a little bit smaller?
Has anyone figured out how to mount the optical end switch on the left side? The zero side??? There is no hole like there is on the right side for me to push the wires through.
theres a remix version on facebook with larger holes. I also put up a remix of that one with no brass inserts required here on thingiverse.
Hey buddy. You have to remove the jst-xh connector housing and solder the wires directly to the pcb. Then run this wire through the channel inside the print, which brings the wire out to where the X max end stop is mounted.
Hi, With double Z and 200x200 print area it looks like 12mm rods for the Z axis is a bit excessive. This looks like an optimization made for single Z, are you considering publishing an option with smaller rods on Z axis?
Hey guys,
do you think it would be possible to use this type of graphite bushings in X and Y instead of LM8(L)UU?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/8mmx15mm-x45mm-linear-graphite-copper-set-bearing-copper-alloy-bushing-oil-self-lubricating-bearing-JDB-8x15x45/32775983766.html
Is there a Remix or a Way to use 2 E3DV6 on the Hypercube?
I want to build me a second Printer, but i need 2 Extruder.
There is a bracket for the cyclope/chimera and chimera is a dual hotend... hope to be usefull
Hi Guys,
It's getting really hard to find 3030 extrusion where I live... Did any body remixed this for 2020 extrusion instead?
I'm trying to edit the parts in Fusion 360, but I'm realizing I'm no such a great 3D designer =).
Thanks!
i have a lot of 3030 available at my end... wondering if i could send it across to you...
Thanks a lot for your kindess man! The thing is that the shipping costs are huge, I live in Argentina, almost the other side of the world =).
Anyway, I'll check shipping costs from India and back to you in case they were affordable.
I think 2020 will not enough for the hyperube EVO dimenions.... if you can't found locally just buy from internet....
Il suffit d'un simple calcul de force pour voir que le 2020 suffit amplement.
C'est juste du business.
Shipping costs are huge... That's why I thought about 2020 extrusion instead.
I seen.... i check online... 900€ shipping from china.... omg....
I, like many others, are very impressed with this design and it ticks many of the boxes for my next build. I, like many others, can't help but my own stamp on the design. I have a couple of printers with dual Z-axis steppers and I have always wondered how I will know if they get out of sync due to lost steps. Of course, if it gets too bad, the Z axis will bind but a few lost steps could go unnoticed. So, before I order the parts for my Evo, I'm considering using a dual Z axis design with a single stepper motor and a 6mm GT2 belt between drive pulleys on the two acme leadscrews to synchronize them. I don't know that this is really necessary, but I also tell myself it can't hurt. In order to pull this off, I'll need a GT2 closed loop belt which comes in fixed lengths. Can anyone with an assembled Evo tell me what the center to center dimension is between the leadscrews on a dual Z configuration?
I just got mine working. I am adding the end stops right now. I have a third lead screw, and once I get a smaller belt, I will move the motor inside the printer and attach it to the bed as well giving me 3 mount points to life the bed from. I may test removing the smooth rods. Currently i have a dual Z 300x300 version. The belt that is attached right now is 1140 GT2 6mm. The pulleys are 60 tooth pulleys. https://photos.app.goo.gl/T1mvyH9Qpz5m5bXF3
If driving two lead screws from a singe stepper, You may want to do with a less aggressive thread pitch. Maybe a TR8x2 instead of the common T8x8... That is four time the leverage (or rotational travel) for the same z-travel. My $.02...
Sorry, I don't do facebook. Has this solution already been designed and implemented?
Yeah, I have built my Hypercube EVO as you described. I used a 20 teeth pulley on the motor and 40 teeth pulleys on the lead screws to achieve a 2:1 transmission ratio.
That way the torque should be in the same region as with two motors.
That design seems to have an advantage that it doubles the resolution of the Z axis. That is, the steps per millimeter would be double that of a direct drive configuration. It also seems like it would have the downside that it doubles the amount of time it takes to slew from one end stop to the other.
Is your design the one shown in the photos that Sabagmn linked below? If so, could you share the stl files the for additional components you designed?
My design is a different one. It uses two P08 pillow bearings, mounted on a spacer that I have published here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2447129
The motor mount is the same as the original one, just mounted upside down. It only works because my printer has tall rubber feet and thus enough clearance from the ground to mount it this way.
This design, if that is what you are looking for: http://photos.gerbers.us/GalleryThumbnails.aspx?gallery=4819169
Thanks! That is a different design than the one I envisioned but probably better. It solves the tensioning problem I had yet to tackle.
Does anyone have any idea how likely two Z axis steppers are to get out of sync? Also, are both motors typically driven by one driver (coils in parallel) or from two drivers where both are fed the same step and direction signals?
Yah someone has. I have also connected two steppers but not tested yet to see if that will cause problems.
Hello there and congrats for the excellent design.
I am planning to build (already ordered most parts) a 300x300x300 HCEVO using (most of) the mechanical and electronics parts of my ANET A8. The question is:
Can the mainboard of the ANET A8 (running Marlin or actually Skynet3D) be used in the HCEVO?
I see that the way the X and Y moves are realised is quite different, so is it just a setting change in Marlin? If not, can the repetier firmware be loaded on the ANET mainboard?
Thanks in advance...
Would there be any advantage to mounting any of the motors and related parts outside of the frame perimeter? Adjusting the frame perimeter so the build platform fits inside, but no much else. Just a thought.
Feel free to join: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/
New FB group for people who don't like bossy administrator ;-)
Hey guys,
Maybe i missed this BUT are there mods to use NEMA23 motors? i want to go 300x300x500(H)
I use nema23's in my Monster 3D printer (150015001700)mm. What kind of help do you need?
Hey Richard. I was wondering of anyone has files for the stepper mounts and what size gt2 belt and gears etc was used. I recon the stepper central and a belt to 2 lead screws for z but the y and x? Or what best?
Ooooh, I'm sure that maybe no-one has. Nema23 is way too overkill for Hypercube's needs.
But you know, you can install Autodesk Inventor and download the build files. From those you can just modify them for Nema23.
I'm not so good at cad lol bit I'll give it a go. Another question: in terms of belts what's the best way to gauge what length is needed?
Well, if you want to 3D print well, than you have to learn CAD.
6mm belt for 500mm build plate is an absolute MAX. After that you have to go wider and maybe with better belts. You can measure the belt by looking how it is installed on the printer, it depends on the printer.
I totally agree one need think me cad. I'm currently using fusion 360. I knock up stuff as and when I need it. I'm not the best so can take a while for complicated stuff. I'm still learning fusion
No - i already have 3 NEMA23 and 1 NEMA17 from a 3D printer i bought in 2010. So i am building a new 3D printer from the hardware i already have. I don't want to buy new stuff if i can reuse :)
I have not seen these yet. After spending a few hours in tinkercad I think it probably would not be too difficult to modify the X,Y mounts. The Z mounts might require some though depending how close the motor is to the frame in case if affected the alignment of the lead screw. If so the motor might need to be mounted above or below the frame wall.
I haven't used tinkercad BUT can i edit the files included in Tinkercad?
The other thing to consider is you might not really desire the massive torque of a NEMA23 on the Z axis. At best it's overkill, at worst (e.g. Z endstop/probe failure) it will knock your hotend HARD onto the heatbed, damaging the bed, nozzle, or possibly even the Z axis mechanics - such as a flex coupler if you're using one.
It might be handy for Bowden extruders though - I'm new to the Bowden thing but have read about how they have quite high torque requirements.
@shearder - I'm planning on building my HC Evo to 330x330x500, but using NEMA17s (relatively high torque ones, from an Ordbot Hadron kit from 2014 that I never ended up building). I'll make sure to add a 'make' and put my progress/thoughts/findings there as I go along.
As far as the electronics go can the entire build be completed with just soldering, or is crimping also necessary?
totally depends on what wiring you use and how you want to do it.
I´m building this awesome printer and I have question. Why are there on extruder carriage 2 optical endstops and it is possible to give there only 1 ?
Thanks
yes its possible to use only 1 if you want. but if something goes wrong the machine cant know if it reach the end of travel.
I'm about to start building my Hypercube Evolution soon, and using the excellent Autodesk 360 online model as a basis for figuring things out:
One thing I've noticed on this is that it has an arrangement where the part cooler duct is mounted behind the X-carriage, rather than sandwiched between the X-carriage and hotend assembly. Does anyone know where to find this part cooler duct (and the adapter)? The only thing I can glean from the model is that the name of the duct is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_1.0, and that its mounting bracket is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_MOUNT_1.1. (Presumably it's for an E3D Titan Aero extruder, but it looks like it's generic enough to fit many of the hotend mounts floating around.) I've searched high and low on Thingiverse to no avail..
Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:346767.
I will be using a Titan Aero hence the mount and fan duct; no STL files for it yet as it still needs work.
No worries, I look forward to seeing it (and if you would like a beta tester for the fan duct I should be building my HC Evo in a week or so).
The thing I like most about your fan duct design is that it hangs off of the other side of the X carriage - helping keep the relatively heavy hotend (and extruder for a direct drive) from cantilevering off the X rails as much. I'll be using an E3D V6 clone to start off with, but plan to move to a Chimera dual extruder setup once I have things dialed in and I'm prepared to break it all over again.
That is a slight issue with the Titan Aero; as compact as it is, it does extend forward and to the sides a fair bit, especially once you add a probe
At least the heavy bit is relatively close to the X gantry rods. Looking at your 3D model it uses a pancake stepper right? I can't imagine it'll be too bad. It looks better than even a stock i3 style X gantry, and I assume you're using oversize X rods to keep stiffness up.
One of my first thoughts was to use dual direct extruders (like Wombot uses - I go to their store/factory frequently to buy filament and bits). But their way of solving that problem is to use very stiff and sturdy (read: expensive) fully supported linear rail system so it doesn't really matter. I was going to remix the HC Evo to use the same rail, until I saw its cost per linear metre...
The setup works fine for their large printers - last time I was in there they were showing me a test print from one of their prototypes that had a 2.4m (yes, 2400mm!) Z-height.
do you still have a model of the original online? I need to look at the back of the x carriage to see if my no insert version looks like it will work.
maybe you can change to a piezo sensor something like sandro on fb uses.
I looked at that sensor a while ago and couldn't see how it would work with a Titan Aero mount but looking again they've added a new mount (https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/product-page/titan-and-titan-aero-piezo-bracket and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2404904) so that might be a good option.
Very nice model, I think this will be my next printer, I just completed an AM8 build so now I can print the Hypercube Evolution parts with confidence they will be accurate and useable.
Does it need a remix? I'm hoping to use 3-point levelling but can't think of anything that needs to change.
Never experienced a wobbly 4-legged chair or table? But yes, 3 bed brackets, screws, springs etc.
Is there something like an assembly guide or so? This would be my first CoreXY style printer
Since our international Facebook group is doing well and growing, we decided to create a group for the german speaking group of people.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/HypercubeEvoDeutsch/
Who is interested, please join :)
1- the brass inserts are cool in theory, but in practice it's very easy to pull them out, e.g: when tightening the screws on the XY joiners (the y bearing holder on the original wasn't a bad design with the bolt and nut assembly), or the one in the middle of the x carriage. There are places where the brass inserts are perfectly fine, such as in the idler pulley holders or the rod end clamps because there's plastic in between them and they're acting as nuts. Where they're doing the job of a tapped hole (e.g: xy joiner) is where they're not so fine, because of the insert-pulling action I described before. In that area, they're also too close to the surface that touches the bearings; when you're inserting them with the soldering iron it's easy to make bumps on that surface, which requires a bit of sanding down in order to fit the bearings. The y axis bearings also give plenty of room for tabs for through-bolts and nuts.
3- The LM10LUU bearings on the Y axis are a good thing, smooth and mostly play-free. This makes me think 10mm rods and long bearings would be perfect for the z axis, since 10mm rods are extremelly stiff
4- the two in line 12mm bearings for the Z axis tend to lock up if the z-bearing holder is not perfectly made, the bearings on the x carriage will also lock up if the x axis rods are not perfectly parallel. Long bearings (eg: LM8LUU) would be good enough for those parts. The x carriage could also use a combination of one long bearing and one short bearing, which would decrease the weight and also have no play or very little play
All in all, as I'm enjoying building this and think it's an excellent design --despite some issues--, I'd like to thank Scott for this great contribution to DIY 3d printers!
working on some of the insert issues. Started with the x carriage bearing clamp. It still needs 2 inserts but thats less than before. I had eliminated those too but realize Scott has some tight tolerance between the optical sensors. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2436180
well ultimaker style's printer are quite the same, in ultimaker you have 1 rod on X movements (0 rod on corexy) and 1 rod on Y movements (2 for corexy) so you lose 1 rod on Y but add a rod on X and the corexy on X movements have no rod.
as i said is quite the same
hey. i would like to have the stl. file of scott 3d's dial indicator attachment. he shows it in his video. but i cant find the file for it.....any ideas????
I have a Banggood-special dial indicator on the way so would also be interested in a mount for it, otherwise I'll add it to the to-do list.
Hi, awesome job.
I would like to use some LM12LUU Bearings for the Z axis. Is it possible for you to make that work?
Also i have some SFU1204 400mm Ball Screws laying around and would use them for this build. Can you adjust the z nut part?
I can do this on my own if you could upload the part files.
Thanks in advance.
One of the remixes is a LM12LUU holder for the Z-rods
I liked the simplicity of this design so much that decided to modify XY-mechanics of my Vertex K8400 printer. If interested, follow the development at this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2427810
After 2 sets of 8mm Rods from 2 vendors, and 18 lm8uu bearings from 3 vendors not sliding like they should, I am giving up and going to 10mm rods for the X carriage.
I printed the Y_Carriage_xDia10_LM10UU and went to bring the X carriage with lm10UU bearing holders. There is not one in the file. Does anyone have an X carriage with LM10UU I can use?
Also, should an LM8UU bearing slide down a 8mm rod under it's own weight? Maybe I am just expecting too much. See this video https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=3eJDcDItUWU
no they wont slide under there own weight. not at first at least. they will break in. and after a while they eventually will. i would not recommend using 10mm on the x axis. too heavy... stick with the 8mm. clean the new lm8uu bearings with break cleaner or something like that and re-lube with lithium greese or heavy oil. as long as they are not rough or grinding they will lossen up a bit over some time.
Tech2C has a Youtube video about the effect the added weight of steel X rods can have on print quality, comparing the conventional hardened steel to aluminium and carbon fibre (I don't have a link but it's called something cute like "This is Y"). After viewing that, it reinforced my decision to go with 10mm CF rods and Igus bushings.
" Also, should an LM8UU bearing slide down a 8mm rod under it's own weight? Maybe I am just expecting too much. See this video"
Yes it is oke for those bearings too slide down under it's own weight(not freefalling) thats only a problem when they also can rotate. They slide but are not build to rotate/spin, when you try to rotate them then you feel a lot of friction Try to stay with 8mm, 10mm is not needed and to heavy.
btw your videolink isn't working!
Hi. I got GM8UU for my skeleton 3D printer. They slide by their own weight at low angles, very nice bearings, but at USD8-13 each one.
Thank you for the response. The bearings are not sliding down under their own weight. I can push them down and they will still stop. This happens when I have the rod in a vertical position. There is a good bit of drag on the x-axis. The lm10uu bearings and the 10mm rod do not have the same sort of drag so I am a bit skeptical of the x-axis. I ordered a 10mm rod and some more lm10uu bearings and they slide more like the x-axis does right now. So I am starting think that the original 10mm bearing is just too loose and my expectations are incorrect. I guess my question is with an 8mm rod and a vertical position should lm8uu bearings automatically slide to the base of the rod or should they hold their position? I am also about to order lm8luu bearings. The YouTube link should be fixed. Can you please try again for me?
Your 8mm bearings and rods looks fine to me, nothing wrong. They have minimal space and just enough friction to stay in place. In my opinion perfect fit.
Agree100%. If they fall under their own weight then the clearances are way out and accuracy will suffer. As long as they slide with "ease".
Please Login to Comment