HyperCube Evolution

by SCOTT_3D, published

HyperCube Evolution by SCOTT_3D Apr 18, 2017
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The HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer is a CoreXY printer inspired by the excellent HyperCube 3D Printer developed by Tech2C. The belt arrangement on that printer was the neatest CoreXY arrangement that I have seen.

I have leveraged the great work that Tech2C has done to refine his design and incorporated this with my own further development to reduce the number of printed parts and simplify the build.

Design goals for the HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer:

  1. Increase the stiffness of the printer to further improve / reduce vibration artefacts.

    • 3030 extrusion used for the frame
    • 2020 extrusion used for the build platform frame
    • 8mm diameter X rails
    • 10mm diameter Y rails
    • 12mm diameter Z rails
  2. Minimise the size of the printer for the chosen build volume.
    • Parametric CAD design in Autodesk Inventor
    • Excel spreadsheet provided to allow for customised printer size

The prototype printer, with a build volume of 300 x 300 x 300, met with all expectation but did show some small bed vibrations when printing at high speed due to the large bed and counter levered design. Therefore, two build options are available. A single Z axis version for smaller build platforms and a double Z axis version for larger beds or those wishing for a rock solid build platform.

The Evolution also features a quick attach X carriage to allow for interchangeable tools e.g. the extruder mount and a DTI mount for tramming the build platform.

More to come over the next few weeks as I'm awaiting parts for upgrade the prototype to use the double Z axis, and also the parts to convert my Geetech Prusa i3 into another HyperCube Evolution.

Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/


20.04.2017 Configuration file updated, multiple size Bed Brackets added
22.04.2017 BOM added
23.04.2017 Introduction video added https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rctCsUGnX8&feature=youtu.be
23.04.2017 Added 4 variations of Y carriage to suit different combinations of 8mm and 10mm rails. Plus bearing clamps to suit. Note - current X carriage only suits LM8UU bearings. An adaptor will be needed to use 10mm bushings.
30.04.2017 Error found in spreadsheet which resulted in 10mm rails being 30mm too long. Version 1.2 uploaded.
09.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Axis Linear Rail Bracket - Double Z - Left & Right.
13.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Nut Bracket - modified for easier assembly
13.05.2017 Z Nut Bracket for T10 leadscrew added
27.05.2017 Configuration file updated to include part print list (note that some part versions are still not available)
02.06.2017 Repetier configuration file uploaded
17.06.2017 40mm bed bracket added
17.06.2017 v1.1 versions of XY Stepper Mount and Idler Mount added which have slotted screw holes for different L brackets. v1.0 versions remain for those who don't need the slot.
17.06.2017 v1.1 of XY Stepper Mount and Idler Mount for 8mm diameter Y linear rails
18.06.2017 v1.4 configuration file added.. Thanks to Nicolas Harscoat for adding the shaft selector which then determines the part versions to be printed.
01.07.2017 CAD files uploaded for v1.0 as a pack and go. So the assembly should work. Note that some published parts are now v1.0+, but these files should get people going.


Frame and linear guides – use the Excel spreadsheet to calculate the lengths required for your custom size.

3030 and 2020 extrusion

16 x L type bracket for 3030 extrusion

8 x 3030 corner brackets


M5 x 10 Button head screws

M3 Socket head screws

100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 3030 extrusion

100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 2020 extrusion

4 x 3mm dowel pins

100pcs M3 5x5 Brass knurled insert


1 or 2 x NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8 – length needs to be ~30mm longer than required Z travel, depending on nut type

3 x NEMA 17 42mm Stepper Motors

Pulleys and Belts

2 x GT2 Timing Pulley (20 teeth) 5mm bore for 6mm belt
6 x GT2 Idler Pulley (20 teeth) 3mm bore
2 x GT2 Idler Pulley without teeth (20 teeth) 3mm bore
5m Polyurethane GT2 6mm belt

Linear Bearings

4 x LM12UU 12mm Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM10UU 10mm Linear Ball Bearings or 2 x LM10LUU 10mm Long Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM8UU 8mm Linear Ball Bearings

Heated Bed components

1 x Heated Bed 300x300

4 or 6 x Levelling screws

1 x 100kohm NTC3950 thermistor

Control System

1 x 24V 400W power supply

1 x RAMPS 1.4 with stepper drivers and display – NOTE: This board needs to be modified to run a 24V system. If you don’t then you will kill the Arduino Mega!

1 x RAMPS 1.4 fan extender module – use to run the 12V fans

1 x DC-DC 24V-12V step down module

1 x Arduino MEGA 2560

1 x Power expansion module (if needed)

1 x 5V NPN M12 inductive sensor

4 x Optical end stops


5m x 24AWG 4 core UL2464 cable

5m x 24AWG Red Black cable

2m x 14AWG Silicone cable

5m x Servo extension cable

Connectors for Stepper motors

Print Settings


HyperCube Evolution








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Hi Guys,

It's getting really hard to find 3030 extrusion where I live... Did any body remixed this for 2020 extrusion instead?

I'm trying to edit the parts in Fusion 360, but I'm realizing I'm no such a great 3D designer =).


I, like many others, are very impressed with this design and it ticks many of the boxes for my next build. I, like many others, can't help but my own stamp on the design. I have a couple of printers with dual Z-axis steppers and I have always wondered how I will know if they get out of sync due to lost steps. Of course, if it gets too bad, the Z axis will bind but a few lost steps could go unnoticed. So, before I order the parts for my Evo, I'm considering using a dual Z axis design with a single stepper motor and a 6mm GT2 belt between drive pulleys on the two acme leadscrews to synchronize them. I don't know that this is really necessary, but I also tell myself it can't hurt. In order to pull this off, I'll need a GT2 closed loop belt which comes in fixed lengths. Can anyone with an assembled Evo tell me what the center to center dimension is between the leadscrews on a dual Z configuration?

If driving two lead screws from a singe stepper, You may want to do with a less aggressive thread pitch. Maybe a TR8x2 instead of the common T8x8... That is four time the leverage (or rotational travel) for the same z-travel. My $.02...

look in the facebook group at sandros design for this.

Sorry, I don't do facebook. Has this solution already been designed and implemented?

This design, if that is what you are looking for: http://photos.gerbers.us/GalleryThumbnails.aspx?gallery=4819169

Thanks! That is a different design than the one I envisioned but probably better. It solves the tensioning problem I had yet to tackle.

Does anyone have any idea how likely two Z axis steppers are to get out of sync? Also, are both motors typically driven by one driver (coils in parallel) or from two drivers where both are fed the same step and direction signals?

Yah someone has. I have also connected two steppers but not tested yet to see if that will cause problems.

Hello there and congrats for the excellent design.
I am planning to build (already ordered most parts) a 300x300x300 HCEVO using (most of) the mechanical and electronics parts of my ANET A8. The question is:
Can the mainboard of the ANET A8 (running Marlin or actually Skynet3D) be used in the HCEVO?
I see that the way the X and Y moves are realised is quite different, so is it just a setting change in Marlin? If not, can the repetier firmware be loaded on the ANET mainboard?
Thanks in advance...

Would there be any advantage to mounting any of the motors and related parts outside of the frame perimeter? Adjusting the frame perimeter so the build platform fits inside, but no much else. Just a thought.

Feel free to join: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/
New FB group for people who don't like bossy administrator ;-)

Hey guys,
Maybe i missed this BUT are there mods to use NEMA23 motors? i want to go 300x300x500(H)

Comments deleted.

No - i already have 3 NEMA23 and 1 NEMA17 from a 3D printer i bought in 2010. So i am building a new 3D printer from the hardware i already have. I don't want to buy new stuff if i can reuse :)

I have not seen these yet. After spending a few hours in tinkercad I think it probably would not be too difficult to modify the X,Y mounts. The Z mounts might require some though depending how close the motor is to the frame in case if affected the alignment of the lead screw. If so the motor might need to be mounted above or below the frame wall.

I haven't used tinkercad BUT can i edit the files included in Tinkercad?

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
petertee - in reply to warham

The other thing to consider is you might not really desire the massive torque of a NEMA23 on the Z axis. At best it's overkill, at worst (e.g. Z endstop/probe failure) it will knock your hotend HARD onto the heatbed, damaging the bed, nozzle, or possibly even the Z axis mechanics - such as a flex coupler if you're using one.

It might be handy for Bowden extruders though - I'm new to the Bowden thing but have read about how they have quite high torque requirements.

@shearder - I'm planning on building my HC Evo to 330x330x500, but using NEMA17s (relatively high torque ones, from an Ordbot Hadron kit from 2014 that I never ended up building). I'll make sure to add a 'make' and put my progress/thoughts/findings there as I go along.

As far as the electronics go can the entire build be completed with just soldering, or is crimping also necessary?

totally depends on what wiring you use and how you want to do it.

I´m building this awesome printer and I have question. Why are there on extruder carriage 2 optical endstops and it is possible to give there only 1 ?


4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
warham - in reply to lkvapil

yes its possible to use only 1 if you want. but if something goes wrong the machine cant know if it reach the end of travel.

And is somewhere available configuration for FW ?


facebook groups

I'm about to start building my Hypercube Evolution soon, and using the excellent Autodesk 360 online model as a basis for figuring things out:


One thing I've noticed on this is that it has an arrangement where the part cooler duct is mounted behind the X-carriage, rather than sandwiched between the X-carriage and hotend assembly. Does anyone know where to find this part cooler duct (and the adapter)? The only thing I can glean from the model is that the name of the duct is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_1.0, and that its mounting bracket is E3D_TA_FAN_DUCT_MOUNT_1.1. (Presumably it's for an E3D Titan Aero extruder, but it looks like it's generic enough to fit many of the hotend mounts floating around.) I've searched high and low on Thingiverse to no avail..

Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:346767.

I will be using a Titan Aero hence the mount and fan duct; no STL files for it yet as it still needs work.

HyperCube Evolution
4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
petertee - in reply to TunnelVision

No worries, I look forward to seeing it (and if you would like a beta tester for the fan duct I should be building my HC Evo in a week or so).

The thing I like most about your fan duct design is that it hangs off of the other side of the X carriage - helping keep the relatively heavy hotend (and extruder for a direct drive) from cantilevering off the X rails as much. I'll be using an E3D V6 clone to start off with, but plan to move to a Chimera dual extruder setup once I have things dialed in and I'm prepared to break it all over again.

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
TunnelVision - in reply to petertee

That is a slight issue with the Titan Aero; as compact as it is, it does extend forward and to the sides a fair bit, especially once you add a probe


At least the heavy bit is relatively close to the X gantry rods. Looking at your 3D model it uses a pancake stepper right? I can't imagine it'll be too bad. It looks better than even a stock i3 style X gantry, and I assume you're using oversize X rods to keep stiffness up.

One of my first thoughts was to use dual direct extruders (like Wombot uses - I go to their store/factory frequently to buy filament and bits). But their way of solving that problem is to use very stiff and sturdy (read: expensive) fully supported linear rail system so it doesn't really matter. I was going to remix the HC Evo to use the same rail, until I saw its cost per linear metre...

The setup works fine for their large printers - last time I was in there they were showing me a test print from one of their prototypes that had a 2.4m (yes, 2400mm!) Z-height.

do you still have a model of the original online? I need to look at the back of the x carriage to see if my no insert version looks like it will work.

Links to the models are on that make page.

maybe you can change to a piezo sensor something like sandro on fb uses.

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
TunnelVision - in reply to warham

I looked at that sensor a while ago and couldn't see how it would work with a Titan Aero mount but looking again they've added a new mount (https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/product-page/titan-and-titan-aero-piezo-bracket and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2404904) so that might be a good option.

Beta Precision Piezo/Moriquendi E3D Titan and Titan Aero Piezo Z probe Bracket

Very nice model, I think this will be my next printer, I just completed an AM8 build so now I can print the Hypercube Evolution parts with confidence they will be accurate and useable.

who made the model?

Anyone already made a remix for 3-point leveling?

Does it need a remix? I'm hoping to use 3-point levelling but can't think of anything that needs to change.

4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
warham - in reply to TunnelVision

just install 3 supports instead of 4. no?

Never experienced a wobbly 4-legged chair or table? But yes, 3 bed brackets, screws, springs etc.

Is there something like an assembly guide or so? This would be my first CoreXY style printer


Since our international Facebook group is doing well and growing, we decided to create a group for the german speaking group of people.


Who is interested, please join :)

1- the brass inserts are cool in theory, but in practice it's very easy to pull them out, e.g: when tightening the screws on the XY joiners (the y bearing holder on the original wasn't a bad design with the bolt and nut assembly), or the one in the middle of the x carriage. There are places where the brass inserts are perfectly fine, such as in the idler pulley holders or the rod end clamps because there's plastic in between them and they're acting as nuts. Where they're doing the job of a tapped hole (e.g: xy joiner) is where they're not so fine, because of the insert-pulling action I described before. In that area, they're also too close to the surface that touches the bearings; when you're inserting them with the soldering iron it's easy to make bumps on that surface, which requires a bit of sanding down in order to fit the bearings. The y axis bearings also give plenty of room for tabs for through-bolts and nuts.

3- The LM10LUU bearings on the Y axis are a good thing, smooth and mostly play-free. This makes me think 10mm rods and long bearings would be perfect for the z axis, since 10mm rods are extremelly stiff

4- the two in line 12mm bearings for the Z axis tend to lock up if the z-bearing holder is not perfectly made, the bearings on the x carriage will also lock up if the x axis rods are not perfectly parallel. Long bearings (eg: LM8LUU) would be good enough for those parts. The x carriage could also use a combination of one long bearing and one short bearing, which would decrease the weight and also have no play or very little play

All in all, as I'm enjoying building this and think it's an excellent design --despite some issues--, I'd like to thank Scott for this great contribution to DIY 3d printers!

working on some of the insert issues. Started with the x carriage bearing clamp. It still needs 2 inserts but thats less than before. I had eliminated those too but realize Scott has some tight tolerance between the optical sensors. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2436180

Hypercube Evolution X carriage remix
by warham
Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

well ultimaker style's printer are quite the same, in ultimaker you have 1 rod on X movements (0 rod on corexy) and 1 rod on Y movements (2 for corexy) so you lose 1 rod on Y but add a rod on X and the corexy on X movements have no rod.

as i said is quite the same

Hmpf M5 Screws and Nuts @.@. Is a Version with M4 Screws possible, pls? :D

sure, design it and share it with us please. thank you!

hey. i would like to have the stl. file of scott 3d's dial indicator attachment. he shows it in his video. but i cant find the file for it.....any ideas????

I have a Banggood-special dial indicator on the way so would also be interested in a mount for it, otherwise I'll add it to the to-do list.

Jul 11, 2017 - Modified Jul 11, 2017

Hi, awesome job.
I would like to use some LM12LUU Bearings for the Z axis. Is it possible for you to make that work?
Also i have some SFU1204 400mm Ball Screws laying around and would use them for this build. Can you adjust the z nut part?
I can do this on my own if you could upload the part files.
Thanks in advance.

One of the remixes is a LM12LUU holder for the Z-rods

I liked the simplicity of this design so much that decided to modify XY-mechanics of my Vertex K8400 printer. If interested, follow the development at this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2427810

Vertex K8400 Evolution
by logmett

After 2 sets of 8mm Rods from 2 vendors, and 18 lm8uu bearings from 3 vendors not sliding like they should, I am giving up and going to 10mm rods for the X carriage.

I printed the Y_Carriage_xDia10_LM10UU and went to bring the X carriage with lm10UU bearing holders. There is not one in the file. Does anyone have an X carriage with LM10UU I can use?

Also, should an LM8UU bearing slide down a 8mm rod under it's own weight? Maybe I am just expecting too much. See this video https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=3eJDcDItUWU

no they wont slide under there own weight. not at first at least. they will break in. and after a while they eventually will. i would not recommend using 10mm on the x axis. too heavy... stick with the 8mm. clean the new lm8uu bearings with break cleaner or something like that and re-lube with lithium greese or heavy oil. as long as they are not rough or grinding they will lossen up a bit over some time.

Tech2C has a Youtube video about the effect the added weight of steel X rods can have on print quality, comparing the conventional hardened steel to aluminium and carbon fibre (I don't have a link but it's called something cute like "This is Y"). After viewing that, it reinforced my decision to go with 10mm CF rods and Igus bushings.

Jul 9, 2017 - Modified Jul 9, 2017
rampetampertje - in reply to Phocus

" Also, should an LM8UU bearing slide down a 8mm rod under it's own weight? Maybe I am just expecting too much. See this video"

Yes it is oke for those bearings too slide down under it's own weight(not freefalling) thats only a problem when they also can rotate. They slide but are not build to rotate/spin, when you try to rotate them then you feel a lot of friction Try to stay with 8mm, 10mm is not needed and to heavy.

btw your videolink isn't working!

Hi. I got GM8UU for my skeleton 3D printer. They slide by their own weight at low angles, very nice bearings, but at USD8-13 each one.

Thank you for the response. The bearings are not sliding down under their own weight. I can push them down and they will still stop. This happens when I have the rod in a vertical position. There is a good bit of drag on the x-axis. The lm10uu bearings and the 10mm rod do not have the same sort of drag so I am a bit skeptical of the x-axis. I ordered a 10mm rod and some more lm10uu bearings and they slide more like the x-axis does right now. So I am starting think that the original 10mm bearing is just too loose and my expectations are incorrect. I guess my question is with an 8mm rod and a vertical position should lm8uu bearings automatically slide to the base of the rod or should they hold their position? I am also about to order lm8luu bearings. The YouTube link should be fixed. Can you please try again for me?


Jul 10, 2017 - Modified Jul 10, 2017
rampetampertje - in reply to Phocus

Your 8mm bearings and rods looks fine to me, nothing wrong. They have minimal space and just enough friction to stay in place. In my opinion perfect fit.

Agree100%. If they fall under their own weight then the clearances are way out and accuracy will suffer. As long as they slide with "ease".

I bought 5 on the chance one was wackadoodle. What I found is 3 moved really smoothly, and the 4rth had a little bit of a click click click as the balls circulated. Whether that is correct and the others are too loose I am not sure but I swapped that one out for the 5th bearing which was smooth like the other 3.

Comments deleted.

Hey Scott, Any chance I can commission you to modify the XY setup to work with 12mm rods? I'm really bad at modifying meshes. Im going to use LM12UU bearings on the Y axis and RJMP-01-12 Bushings for the X with some Carbon Rods. Please let me know before I go ask somewhere else because you are the most familiar with the design.

Hi. I'm looking for 8mm files for z axis. I've already 8mm rods. I'm converting my ultimaker clone to this HCEvo. Because of that i need 8mm rod stl's. I need "Z axis linear rail brackets" and "Z axis bearing holder" for 8mm rods. Thanks for advance.

I just uploaded a remix of the parts for 8mm Z-Axis rails.


8mm Quad Z-Axis Hypercube Evolution
Comments deleted.

Echoing Vailac, thanks Scott for the design and Tech2C for the inspiration.
I am looking at building a 400mmx400mmx300mm unit. I have a few questions though before I order parts.
1.) For the bed mounting hole spacing (eg MK2 is 210mmx210mm hole spacing on 214x214mm bed size), is the hole spacing from the centre of the hole or the edge?
2.)Would you recommend using 10mm rails for the X and Y axis?
3.) Does the excel calculator work on larger builds (eg my 400x400x300mm)?
3.) Looking at some of the comments, it looks like some people are using direct drive rather than bowden. Am I reading this correct?

Thanks for any advice

About 3 bis :-), if I may:

Direct drive makes retraction easier to tune, and gives more control on flexible filaments, because the distance between the feeding gears and the actual extruder is shorter, but it adds significantly more weight on the printing head. This will result in more inertial force when you speed things up and the additional weight of the stepper motor and gears and everything around can bend the 8mm rod used in the X axis. Considering you are looking for a 400x400mm build surface, I would try to keep the printing head as light as possible since you are way past the 25:1 lenght/diameter rule of thumb ratio for the 8mm rods in the X axis. As this 25:1 rule of thumb follow a square law, it would require 4 rods instead of 2 to make sure it supports a direct drive without bending at 400mm (two rods are kind of OK for 300mm). Another option would be to use larger rods in X axis (and modify the 3D printed head support) but, in both case, the additional weight in the X gantry would tax that Y axis which would then need to be beefed up too, which would double tax the entire frame and so on.

Except if you are planning on printing 400x400mm objects in flexible filament, spend a bit more time tuning the retraction settings and follow Colin Chapman advice: add lightness (It was initially for Lotus race cars, but it also applies to 3D printers).

First, credits where it's due: kudos for this design and to Tech2C who inspired it.

But also, food for thought: the main reason a 3D printer frame has to be rigid is the fact that the frame has to fight the inertia of the printing head and other fast moving components without deforming. But what if it doesn't have to?

A vibration damper that is the softest in X and Y (like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1344305) would let the frame move around instead of resisting the inertia of the head (for a cartesian printer, delta are a quite different in terms of inertia). But the inertia of the printer itself should also be as low as possible where the printer head is, so the printer actually moves around instead of its inertia fighting the inertia of the printing head. And this becomes really interesting is the HyperCube design because the printing head is always at the same place (the top) so you can focus your lightening effort in a single area (not so applicable in a typical Prusa design for example, where the head moves up and down).

So here are a few ideas for a HyperCube Evolution 2 with minimal inertia at the top, where the printing head is, so the printer frame could effortlessly move and tilt on its dampers instead of deforming:

  • Move the X and Y stepper motor to the bottom. I would use 10mm carbon tube extension, because they are torsionaly extremely rigid and very cheap, using 100% infill 3D printed PLA or PC adapters for the stepper motor shaft and the 5mm small rod for the top pulley.
  • Use carbon tube to support the building plate, and use a heating PCB (like Prusa i3 MkII) for a light, flat, rigid surface instead of the much heavier aluminium plus heater plus glass (the building plate spend most of its time at the top, especially with small parts, so its inertia counts even if it is not moving much by itself). A cheaper alternative could be an aluminium plate with multiple support point from a carbon tube frame but calibrating flatness could take a while, although it should be good for a while once calibrated.
  • Use 2020 extrusions for the vertical and top frame so it is lighter at the top, and 2040 (40mm vertical) at the bottom to make sure the top movements are transferred to the bottom and ultimately to the dampers.
  • Another option would be to build the entire top out of 10mm carbon fiber tubes (3 in a triangle for each extrusion) with 3D printed adapters to the bottom 2040 frame to make the top even lighter. 10mm carbon tube are so cheap now that 3 tubes cost less the a single 2020 extrusion. My main concern with that option would be the rigidity of the carbon tube/extrusion interface relying on 3D printed parts. It has to be tested since 2020 extrusion with 3D printed PLA corners are quite rigid.
  • Use +2mm tubes instead of rods (i.e. a 10mm tube instead of a 8mm rod), with plastic bearings as the most common tubes available are aluminium which would be grooved by hardened steel bearing balls (IMHO, carbon tube are not a good idea in the rod application as their diameter varies a bit, which would create variation in friction). LM10UU bearings are almost as common as LM8UU but I'm not sure about their plastic equivalents. A PLA (or ideally POM/Delrin) 3D printed bearing should do the trick

The whole idea of all this is to lower the "internal" acceleration (since it is transferred to the frame movements) so you can increase the initial jerk speed and acceleration/deceleration ramps in the firmware, which have a much important contribution to the overall printing speed than the "maximum" speed for most objects.This wouldn't make the 3D printer inherently more precise, as its precision depends on the precision of the components, but it would (could) allow to maintain its precision at higher speeds since inertia would move the entire frame around instead of deforming the frame.

Note: The rule of thumb in precision movements (<100 microns) is the 25:1 ratio for length vs perpendicular dimension, so a 2020 extrusion is (rule of thumb) good for 500mm while a 8mm rod is only good for around 200mm (surprisingly, the same ratio apply to a mostly empty 2020 extrusion or a solid 8mm rod). However, if the inertia is mostly converted in the entire frame moving around instead of the frame fighting it, I think a 600mm frame or more using 2020 shouldn't be a problem, especially if using high rigidity aluminium like T6.

Well, that was a bit long for a comment and that's all for now. Don't ask me to test my theory myself because, as much as physics and mechanics are natural to me, I definitely suck at CAD design. I just hope it inspires someone to build, test and share a HyperCube Evolution 2 based on principles I haven't seen so far in 3D printers.

MH3000 vibration damping feet
by BDan

Hi Scott! I'm truly amazed with your desing. I saw you've added an xls file for calculating the correct extrusion, rails and lead screws sizes, however, would you mind sharing the sizes you used in the case of dual Z axis version? I'm pretty new on this and I'm affraid screwing it up using the spreadsheet :). Thanks a lot!

On the Excel file just click the drop down menu for double z instead of single and it will give you the answers you seek. :-)

I've just found out there's another xls file different from the one I got... =). Thanks a lot dude!

What is the max length of the Z axis lead screw for the 300mm build volume? The vendor I found only sells 320mm and 350mm integrated lead screw motors, I wonder which one of these will fit the best.

can you please upload a step file to Thingiverse? I know the facebook group has it but i would like to see it downloadable from here if possible

Inventor files are now on thingiverse.


I'm planning to do a mix mash between the original and this one, build one from my prusa then start to do.some of the upgrades you have done! All with 2020 as I have that spare

Now that I'm back from more work travel I have put up the Inventor CAD files on Thingiverse. I hope this helps everyone wanting to remix and improve the HyperCube Evolution. Please note that this is the v1.0 files as later versions were not swapped into the assembly. Please let me know if you need anything more.


I'm travelling again next week so answers will be a little delayed. Sorry.

BTW great work on all the HyperCubes being born! Great to see and also peoples ideas for improvements.

There is good healthy discussion about the design and engineering behind it. Some points to make sure things go smoothly.

  1. Make sure the parts fit without force. For example the Z bearing holders must be a neat fit on the 2020 extrusions. If you are forcing them to fit then the part will be distored and the bearings will probably bind on the linear rails.

  2. Keep the Z rails as close to each other as practical. Linear guide systems should have in plane moment loads minimised, again to ensure smooth motion.

  3. Have FUN!

If you get a minute, can you tell me if the bearings are supposed to do this? https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=3eJDcDItUWU

I am going to use 10mm X rail because I found parts I had that work because of the non sliding you see in the video above. Do you have an X carriage with lm10uu bearing holders?

Is there a BOM just for the printed parts? I am trying to figure out which parts I need to print and how many, but I can't seem to find that anywhere. Looking to build this thing with the dual Z upgrade. Any help would be great. Thanks!

facebook group files section

Ir you revise the configuration dile you get all the info ganó you need

Awesome, Thanks!

I have started my Hypercube. I am attempting to make a how to video as well for everyone here.

I could use some help though. 2 things.

Has anyone figure out the difference of the bed bracket files. I understand the numbers are angles, but can someone tell me the significance of them before I print all of them and test?
Also, I don't see files for an extruder here? is there a common extruder that is used that will mount to the 30x30?

bed bracket numbers are bracket lengths. look at the picture on the right of the spreadsheet. use the longest bracket you can.

I understand the numbers are angles

Was that a typo? They're offsets as shown in the drawing in the spreadsheet.

Nope, It was me not understanding. I will go back to the spreadsheet look again, I seem to have missed this.

Jun 30, 2017 - Modified Jun 30, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to Phocus

For a 30mm offset:

It might help to think about the interaction between mounting hole spacing, bed bracket offset and bed frame y extrusion length (assuming you're using 20x20 for the bed frame):

y_bed_frame_extrusion_length = y_mounting_hole_hole_spacing - 2 * 20 - 2 * bed_bracket_offset

e.g. for 314mm hole spacing and 30mm bed bracket offset:

y_bed_frame_extrusion_length = 314 - 2 * 30 -2 * 20 = 214mm

(Markdown is/was stealing my multiply symbols!)

Or, if you're in the situation where you've ordered extrusions before knowing the final build platform dimensions (fairly common probably):

bed_bracket_offset = (y_mounting_hole_hole_spacing - y_bed_frame_extrusion_length - 2 * 20) / 2

Or chop a bit off the y bed frame extrusions - it wouldn't hurt to order a couple of spare lengths of 2020 as its so cheap.

I know there are slotted parts but it would be cool if there were 1 mm increment versions between 40 and 45

Jun 30, 2017 - Modified Jun 30, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to warham

It should be possible to generate them, and others from 15mm up, with a script... I'll look into it.

And here it is, a big bag of bed brackets https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2412398

Bed Brackets for HyperCube Evolution in 0.5mm Increments

Any chance of making a Z end stop and flag for those that dont need to use a bed level sensor?

Proximity sensor can also be used as a normal end stop... just keep the ABL disable......

I am not installing a proximity sensor on this printer

well, i think no one will made a support for a mechanical endstop. Proximity cost as a mechanical one, so try to find something on thingiverse if you can't do it (consider to make the tinkercad tutorial to design simple things yourself).

You can use a support from another project that use 3030 or 4040 slot

Thanks for the awesome design :)

In one of your youtube videos you said that you would upload a modified X-carriage for IGUS bearings. I cannot find this file. Could you please send me a link?

What's the estimated total price if you had to buy everything?

For my parts list I did last night out came out to about $380. $100 of that was shipping so your mileage may vary.

Hi @SCOTT_3D, can you please add the Y Endstop flag for a 10mm rod?


Is the 400w 24v PSU enough? The heat bed on it's own consumes 360 watts, I don't think 40 watts is enough to drive all the other components.

I see some have used 2 power supplies - one for the heat bed and a second for the other needs, save you the cost of a 600W one

I was thinking exactly the same, yesterday I powered up the bed for the first time and it consumes about 420w... Now I'm looking for a 600w...

Is there a video how to assemble the hotend-holder? ( I didn't find one)

Or can anybody tell me how to do?

Great work. I am preparing to build one, 300 mm cubic build volume. It seems nearly obvious that the Double Z axis is the way to go from all the experimentation that you and Tech2C have done.

However as this design is all about stiffness and improved quality, I have been looking at the Z linear rails and it seems to me that 4 12mm linear rails are excessive. Once the second Z axis is used that controls rotation around the Y axis, and then there are no cantilever static loads around X axis.

So just 2 x 12 mm widely spaced Z linear rods would be sufficient stiff to control for "near perfect" X and Z axes alignment under vibration loads.

Of course everything is flexible and so I am still considering the issues of Z axis bearing tolerances, wondering whether to do some column stiffness analysis of rigid vs "flexible" Z rail mounts, and vs 400 vs 500mm Z rail length - in the context of how accurate can we assemble these of course. My gut feel is all that analysis would be overkill.

I feel adding the second Z axis provides effectively all the observable improvement for high quality hobby-grade machines, and going from 2 to 4 Z rails is negligible. The remaining decision is then where to put them and reducing them to 400, or staying at 500 and increasing the length of the Z axis bearing holders if bearing preload is not possible and bearing slop is an issue.

My thoughts.

I like your line of thought.... You mean to have 2 z axys lead screws, one each side, and only two linear rods, both with one of the lead screws?

Fells ok mechanically and cuts a lot of costs.

Yes, nearly. The 2 Z lead screws, if on each side, provide

  • precise horizontal location around Y axis, and
  • provide a central balance support position (no cantilever) making it simple to have a bed design that is stable around the X axis.

The objective for the Z linear rods is to keep the bed horizontal (X and Y axes stability) and fixed in the X Y directions (including Z rotational stability) and only 2 are required

  • 2 big rigid rods with rigid connection to the 3030 frame, well spaced.

The linear bearings on the Z linear rods also provide location around both the X and Y axis (providing redundancy around the Y axis)
Depending on accuracy and tolerances of everything the need is to:

  • maximise the spacing of the Z linear bearings
    noting lots of discussion on tolerances and play and friction and alignment
    suggests some ideas for tweaking bearing holders to improve alignment and slight preload to overcome play, if an issue
  • providing unidirectional flexibility to remove the Y axis rotational redundancy (purely a purist's theoretical view, not suggest here)

Any choice is possible for the linear rods:

  • random but widely spaced if you are artistic and like asymmetry, or
  • 2 on one side
  • 1 on each side, not necessarily close to the lead screws
  • 2 on the rear, the same as the location for the single Z lead screw, perhaps more widely spaced
    avoiding the need for the extra frame under each Y rail introduced by Scott for the double Z option.

The position of the Z linear rods will change the Y frame dimension, I think, which of course also depends on the hot end and extruder chosen. The bed design is a factor also.

I want to get the frame size and configuration as good as I can for my purposes as that is one thing I don't want to revisit later as I learn along the way.

I am modifying (slightly) Scott's configuration spreadsheet for my purposes as I intuitively like the Titan Aero, (others have parts on Thingiverse for that, thanks all) so I am understanding the spreadsheet and its dependence on Z rod positions and extrude types.

I cannot imagine any situation where 4 Z rods are a good idea. If you want stiffness just make them bigger and mount them well and use good bearings.

Hope this clarifies - simplicity with an imaginary view of perfection for a budget home piece of equipment.

At this stage I am preferring 2 on the rear, of maximum length 500mm (no Y carriage clearance constraint) with maximum spacing of Z linear bearings but I need to check on clearance / play tolerances so see if I am overdoing this.

If you ever build the Evolution, you will know, why there are 4 Z-rods.
And the 4 12mm rods are definately NOT overkill. They make sure, that the bed is a rock solid construction, that does not bend, twist or otherwise move, where it should not move, except up and down. The construction is so rigid, that you can move the bed up and down with connecting only ONE of the motors (I actually did that for testing purposes).
If you look into Scotts construction carefully, you can see, that he put a lot of thoughts into this and that everything has a reason, why its is build like this and not otherways.
When you see the flimsy and whacky bed constructions of some other printers, you know why they always have issues with bed leveling, wobbling and such. NOT with the EVO. I leveled my EVO only ONCE after I finished building it. Now the EVO is printing for some 2 months now WITHOUT any bed leveling at all.
And still prints like a charm.
So believe me, you rather go with an "overkill" (which it isnt) construction like ours, than always fuddle with a whacky bed.
I would alway suggest, that you first build the EVO with the original design and if you then still see needs for "improvement", then go ahead. Of course you are free to build however you like, but maybe you give it a thought, since I already have a working EVO for some time now, I have built 2 other printers before, and the EVO is BY FAR the best

Hi Biggsis,
I was wondering is there such a thing as a wiring diagram, I'm not to hot with wiring, and a diagram would be a great help.

Trying to solve the issue with the fact that I already bought all the extrusions for the standard dual Z :D

I think I'll only remove the linear guides of one side.

Move them to the back means the need of a at least one new 3030 extrusion and maybe a new set of 2020s....

I have just sketched up moving them to the back and the details don't look elegant, the bed more complicated and a few printed parts to redesign. Just removing one side is easily the best practical variation to Scotts design

Really like your idea... Two linear rods at the rear with two lead screws at the sides..... hummmmmmmmmm I"ll play it with my Inventor assembly :D Wait a minute!

If wish I knew enough pseudo-engineering lingo to get involved in these "Can I make it out of strawberry jam?" discussions.

Can somebody tell me how much filament (grams?) I need to print all parts? Thanks!

For the DUAL-Z version you will need approx. 600 grams including everything.

Heavy duty upper rod holders brackets, dual screw and added a slot ridge to stop rotation during alignment. one of the guys int he fb group made them for me.

Anibody has designed año IDEX direct solución for Hypercube?

Hello. My question can be a little stupid but i cant find the information.

im building my printer from scracht. No parts or anything

  1. What extruder i need to buy?
  2. How i decide the size of the bed bracket?
  3. How i decide the size of the shafts?
  4. Any other part not listed in the buy or build list that i need to know about to complete my project?
  1. You are free as long as it's a bowden configuration
  2. I've chosen the 45mm version and adopted to 27.5mm for my bed
  3. depends on your buildvolume (bigger=> thicker) but your inertia will increase with thicker rods
  4. electronics, power supply, hotend, feet some m3 nuts (as far is I'm aware of)

if you look on youtube, scott 3d has videos about the Evolution and with the files there is an excel file that helps with frame size and rod sizes.

Has anyone made an optical sensor holder and flag for the Z axis? I am not going to use the probe sensor.

Hi Scott
Awesome build and I am looking forward to trying to make one myself
Woud you be willing to share the Inventor files?

Does anyone else have the inventor files for this build?


Any chance to get an X Carriage and the XY joiners that use 10mm rods instead of 8?

I suspect that modifying the X Carriage for LM10UUs isn't trivial


I guess it would just be the carriage that needs updating. Am I correct in remembering that the original Hypercube carriage would mount on here?

they are as close as the can be :(

Jun 20, 2017 - Modified Jun 20, 2017

i am in the middle of doing the double z axis...for some reason i keep getting twisting and bindign , cant get a smooth motion ...using 4 12mm rods on the corners and then 2 2-start t10s for the lead screws to rais my 500x 500 bed.

put the 4 12mm rods as close to the t10 screws as possible

Jun 20, 2017 - Modified Jun 20, 2017

Hey Scott! This looks spectacular. I can't wait to build it but am still waiting for delivery of my Anet A8. This build has made quite an impact on "Components Explorer" - your BOM takes up 2/3 of their 3030 profile details (with links to every part).

Great design! Do you think it would work with an e3d chimera?

check henris page or facebook or on other pages here, its probably already made.

With a suitably modified extruder mount I do not see why not.

Hi Scott, Firstly I'd like to say I love your design, especially the X carriage. I'd like to use it on my HyperCube, so, I was wondering if your X rods were the same spacing as those on the HyperCube

Hi, I do not think they are the same spacing as I based them on the Prusa i3 spacing.

Ok, thanks

I would be happy if you could also upload parts to fore the 3030 extrusion Bed chassis
Since in my country it is really hard to find 2020 extrusion

HELLO SCOTT ,Hello, I finished this printer, but problems have been unable to continue, the printer is remote feed, but feeding machine on top middle position, because the distance is relatively long, try too hard, especially easy to plug. Who has a better solution?. Thank you

try to translate again or just use your own language and wait for someone from your country. no way for me to undestand what you are asking for.

I'm sure, there are some people that talk your language here :)

I'am sorry ,my English is poor, that words was translated by BAIDU 打印机的打印半径300mm 较大。远程进料不通畅,打印头总是堵。
it is more bigger than others 3d printer ,x,z,z all is 300mm. I used the nozzle size 0.4mm and filament dia 1.75mm,when the printer is printing , the filament is unsmooth,the nozzle is is clogge always, test a lots of ways,I can not change .

Hi Chenfm

So if I understand it correctly, from your original post and the current one your nozzle is either getting clogged or not fed enough filament.

Things to check:

Print Temperature, are you printing too low for the material you are working with? If so it might not be melting fast enough for the bowden extruder to be able to push it through.

Nozzle Clog, Is the nozzle clogged with anything? Do you have a spare nozzle you can quickly swap too? If not, I would try cleaning it out or forcing some filament through at high temperatures and then doing a pull.

Is your bowden extruder gripping the filament too tight or not tight enough? Does it look like it's grinding it up or not even touching it? I would adjust the tension to make sure it's perfect.

Is the bowden extruder simply under extruding either because of the slicer being misconfigured or because of the printer not being configured correctly?

thanks RDBRULZ ,it works fine.

Is it possible that for the 2020 L-brackets for the bed are missing in the parts list?

You could probably use them but the Z_Axis_Bearing_Holders do the job that corner or L-brackets would do.

is there any advice in order to correctly mount the frame? i want to get it well mounted and equilibrated.

Jun 17, 2017 - Modified Jun 18, 2017

Just incase people need it here it a link for the HyperCube Evolution in a google sheets format, ( some of the vlookup is different so had to edit it)


Hi would it be possible to produce an x carriage/clamp to take 18mm probe?

Jun 16, 2017 - Modified Jun 16, 2017

I'm confused...

I have installed the x/y gantry first.
Now I'm in the process of assembling the Z brackets.
There are 2 sets of Z axis linear rail brackets.
1 set of left and right marked (as I'm assuming "version") 1.0.
And another set marked left right double z 1.1.

I've asked in this group if there were instructions other than the videos (which do not show any step by step assembly) on measurements and which parts go where, but I didn't get an answer. So I've been relying on pictures and pausing videos to see exactly what parts go where.

With that, I see that the brackets marked "double z 1.1" are being installed at the top and the other set on the bottom. But it's impossible to tighten the top bracket screw with the Y gantry and top Y t slot rail in the way.

If I install the 1.0 bracket on the top it'll be a piece of cake. Which means I'll need to ditch the 1.1 brackets all together and print more of the smaller 1.0 brackets. But I'm a stickler to stick with the design and I'm sure Scott made the larger brackets for the top for good reason.

Please, someone tell me what I'm missing.

And again, is there a one stop shop for details on assembling this beautiful machine?
You can't rely on Tech2C's detailed videos for assembly because the parts are different and his design is a single zed axis.

If not, I'm talking myself into making a video series to help out guys like myself in assembling this thing.

Thank you in advance. :-)

For the double Z you will definately need the tall brackets so that you have full Z travel. A ball ended hex key should do the trick to tighten those screws which go in from the top.

Unfortunately no complete build instructions. Just my 7 videos that I did during the build of the dual Z version at the moment. Have you found those videos? Which part of the assembly are you having difficulty with?

Yes, Tech2C's hypercube is a definately a different build all together.

Scott, thank you so much for replying!

You told me what I needed to know.
Don't ditch the 1.1 brackets, and go find a different hex driver.

And while I've got your attention, thank you for such an incredible design! I can't wait to hit the print button on this thing!

maybe take a picture and post it with your question in the facebook group.

Thanks buddy,

But I'm not on Facebook.

Hi, i'm a new user.
I would like to built my first 3d printer and I think "hypercube Evolution" is the best for that.
But i have a question ...How to have the PLA connecting parts ?
Can someone make it to me ?
thansk for your answers
French guy with bad english

Thank you for all the answers

well, i think the best way is to ask on the facebook page or the discussion group to meet a french friend :D

Comments deleted.

45mm table bracket with slotted 3mm hole added to the facebook group files for those that need one.

Hi, sorry for the delay. 40mm bed bracket now on Thingiverse.

Thank you Sir~!

Other than Scott's videos, is there a one stop shop for assembly information such as measurements when fastening the printed parts to the frame?
Thanks in advance for any responses.

Comments deleted.

Hi, thanks for good idea and great work! I want use linear rail slide+MGN12H in HyperCube Evolution. Can you send me your solidworks files for next some changes?

If you visit the Facebook group there is a download of the complete parts list in solidworks and STEP format.

Thank you!

keep an eye out on amazon, probably ebay too, PDtech will start selling cut 3030 extrusion, 3mm build plates, already sells the rods. (usa)

Jun 13, 2017 - Modified Jun 13, 2017

hi, thanks for sharing this awesome design.
I was thinking to convert my anet a8 to this setup, but i have one question. The parts that are seen in the video are made with a machine like this? because i see some small ringing in circles (yellow parts) but a lot of z banding in the grey parts.

I printed all the parts for the Hypercube EVO on my A8 using PETG (some even in PLA) and the result was pretty good. So no worries :)
And i did not use ANY support for the prints.

Thank your guys excelent job! And I want to try PETG too, notice you have tried, could you provide the setting of infill density / layer thickness / print speed for ref.
By the way, how is the horizontal hanging if you do not use ANY support? Thanks

ty for the response,now i am convinced! i am going to do the transformation A8 -> Hypercube EVO

I will also convert my Anet A8 to HCEVO. I'm planning to reuse the steppers, heat bed, mainboard, psu and end stops. Is this possible, or do we need to order all electronics specified in the BOM?

What quantity and lengths are needed for the M3 screws? I'm thinking of buying another kit than the one specified in the BOM.

Yes, you need a lot (around 20) of 25mm M3 as well as some shorter, I bought a kit from Amazon and was sufficient.

Okey thanks!

Is there a more accurate threaded rod besides t8 that can offer better resolution?

You can buy T8 in different lead/pitches which offer higher resolution

thank you so much for taking the time to do this build. i am in the midst of making a 24 x24x 48 build.
yes you read that right. using 30mm extrusion. i initally bought t8 lead screw..but am upgrading to t10 after seeing your build..
im doing dual lead screws..and 4 linear rails for zed :P. again thank you.


Thanks. Hope the build works out well.


I'm pretty sure somebody already made a nice BOM/Excelsheet for this project for getting an overview, calculating costs and tracking/comparing the shops/websites for the parts. If you want to share yours I would really appreciate it, due to my ongoing plans building my own Evolution in the next couple of months and therefore constant comparison of the different setups/changes some people made here in the comment section.

How many of the M5 Fastener Stuff is really needed? I have the opportunity to buy them in single pieces. The BOM shows 100pcs packages.

Jun 12, 2017 - Modified Jun 12, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to Barracdil

I didn't count them all but I reckon you'd use most of the 100 M5 x 10 or 12 button head screws.

These all use them to attach to the frame: XY motor mounts, corner brackets, idler mounts, end stops, Z shaft mounts (top), Z shaft mounts (bottom), Z motor mount. Maybe more.

Jun 12, 2017 - Modified Jun 12, 2017

any chance adding of your 40mm hot bed bracket or even better a slotted version of the 45?

I have 2 questions.

  1. Has anyone found a good stepper motor with 330mm exposed lead screw? If I use 500mm Lead screw will it just stick out of the top and not hurt anything?

  2. Has anyone considered adding a second "extruder" , but instead use a laser for laser cutting stuff? When you slice the object you would only slice one layer? Is this even possible?
Jun 12, 2017 - Modified Jun 12, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to Phocus

I have ordered the 2 x the standard 300mm integrated lead screw motors plus 2 x 400mm lead screws and plan to swap them.

Whether 500mm lead screws would work depends on your Z travel (see the config spreadsheet). If you have chosen 300mm Z travel then 500mm is too long as they will hit the X shafts.


Thank you!

The question I have: What is the benefit of using a motor with integrated lead screw? From what I can see they are much more expensive than buying a typical Nema 17 Motor and using a coupler and a additional lead screw?

More expensive yes, but you gain some Z-travel and eliminate a potential source of backlash in the flexible coupler.

Hi I ended up getting this stepper motor with a 324mm integrated screw. It's the closest i could find that would give me a full 300mm usable Z axis travel according to Scott3D's instructions.


Hi Scott great work look nice will change my plans for building a hybercube in to build this version instead. I have a question i have the alu profile 2020 for the hypercube but your design is for 3030 for the frame so i assume that fitting for the y and x stepper motor and for the Pulleys wont fit a frame built of 2020 .
Are there any chans you could proved stl:s for your design that will fit a 2020 frame ?

just dont try.. thing will vibrate off the table in 2020 profile

Will the brass inserts work for ABS parts as well? Besides thank you for your awesome work!!

Hi, they work great in ABS as well. I have used them in my earlier versions which were printed in ABS. I move to PETG as I always had trouble with ABS warping.

Thanks for the answer! We're building 3 of your designs right now. Printing ABS in a closed chamber gets rid of all the problems. 95°C for the bed works beautifully. If everything works as expected I will write a CE certificate for the printer.

Hello Scott, I'm Dominique, (DJAC1974), I'm french, sorry for my English.
I've a tobeca 2 with two extruders (200x200x250).
I like the design, very very good work Scott, I've printed parts since yesterday to create a 300x300x500 3D printer.
I've a few questions:

  • Where do you buy a new linear guide to replace LM8UU and LM10UU?
  • I want to insert the titan extruder (E3D) and 3dtouch sensor. Can you please send the drawing 3d (inventor or solidworks) of the machine?
  • On vidéo, I see use the RADDS v1.5 card, switch optical endstop is compatible with this card or it necessary add resistor (ohm?; and power W)?

Advance thank you very much for the answers.

I will post pictures later, when this projet to be more advance.

Long continuation at Hypercube Evolution.

Hi, your english is much better than my French. I purchased all of my parts from Aliexpress (China). Looks like a few people are wanting to use the Titan. I thing Bigsis has greated a mount for this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218

I have not yet tried optical end stops with the RADDS. On my list of things to do as I complete the software.

Looking forward to another HyperCube Evolution printing..

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis
Comments deleted.

Hi I love your project.I would like to make 800x800x800mm build area.do you have some plans how to I do that? What rod I have toa use?little big? Thanks.

use the excel file and make your lead screws around 815

Jun 10, 2017 - Modified Jun 10, 2017

I am starting to source my parts for today and build this. I have a prusa i3 china kit I have heavily modified and now I need something more solid.

I am familiar with the ramps/arudino setup, but I wanted to move to something a bit faster and more robust. I have 3 questions.

  1. Has anyone tried this with an authentic smoothie board?
  2. Do you know if smoothie board can support the 24 volts?
  3. Is there something better than smoothie?

Also +1 for another group not on facebook.
Also +1 for local source parts in the Seattle area.


I bought a mks sbase v1.3 (which is a clone of the original smoothieboard). I can tell you the results as soon as the delivery arrives.
Yes it should work with 24V

+1 for the group


Is the time for a group also to keep clean the comments :D


Why we need a second group besides the Facebook group? Of course everyone is free to do whatever, just maybe is better to centralize the discussions there. JM2C

Not everyone uses or wants to use Facebook.

Jun 10, 2017 - Modified Jun 10, 2017
Maratine - in reply to ThatPlayer

^ What he said.

I have taken delivery of most of the mechanical components and am in the process of modifying the y and z printed parts to accept 8mm linear rails (and LM8LUU bearings) instead of the 10 and 12 Scott has used. I am only doing this for the dual z version as I feel the single needs the 12mm rails due to the cantilevered loads. I must admit converting the stl files is a tedious process.

I ordered this lead screw : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RepRap-3D-Printer-THSL-300-8D-Lead-Screw-Dia-8MM-Thread-8mm-Length-300mm-with-Copper/32435304660.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.dzdDkc

It´s 500mm long so build travel distance on Z axe will be 470mm ?
So I will buy linear guides and extrusions with values for X-300mm, Y-300mm and Z-470mm.
Because I think the nut on the lead screw will be about 3cm high so Z travel could be 470mm.

All the best


Jun 7, 2017 - Modified Jun 7, 2017
warham - in reply to lkvapil

In my build 30mm was too much. I would lower that to 10 or 15. Scotts 30mm is when there is no coupler. I suggest a Z in the area of around 485.

Also what bed will you use? if you are using the bed from the excel sheet, note that the bed is actually 328mm.

What is the best place to get the aluminum extrusions in the Seattle area, or just the Pacific Northwest in general?

i use tnutz.com they have pretty much everything and good prices

Did you find a place in the Seattle area? I am in lower Queen Anne. I just started looking to source my parts today.

2nd what Warham said. Misumi all the way.

misumi online is good

Jun 5, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017

I have found there is an issue with the configurator for people that are using a coupler between the stepper and lead screw.
Of course it will extend the lead screw 10-15 cm ish. A bit of a duh moment I wish I had realized before hand.
So either the lead screw needs to be shorter or the frame and z rod guides need to be that much longer.

Since I already have the parts in order to get the design to continue to work I have to flip the lower Z rod clamps upside down otherwise the z rods will not reach them.

A note in the excel file or a yes/no switch to are you using flex couplers to compensate lengths might be a good idea.

Yes, if using a coupler then some extra z height will be required to compensate for them. Good idea for the configurator. Will put it on the to do list.

What lengths did you get? I'm about to order parts myself.

I believe the configurator doesn't say mention the length of the leadscrews at all, just the description says z travel + 30mm.

Jun 6, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017
warham - in reply to ThatPlayer

This is only if you will be using a coupler, if you use a stepper with a lead screw built in such as Scott used the excel file is fine.

If you use a coupler between the stepper and lead screw you may run into trouble.
if your building a standard frame its going to cause problems because the frame and Z rods will be too short.
if you add 15-20cm to the corner pillars as well as the Z rods I believe you will be ok.
Double check my logic on that.
Since I am building an extra tall printer I made the corner pillars longer than they need to be so I am ok there, but my Z rods are about 10-20cm too short.
I am not at home to get an exact shortcoming measurement but it was at least 10cm.
Basically, however long your lead screw was extended because of the coupler the pillars and Z rods need to be extended also. https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue28de06e/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761edd5edf41a5b4aa05?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0B2CAEwCY%2BjGADMAtAGYIAI1yiALOMZ9RATjkA2FfIiMe43Ll25xAYzQBfBDChyIfTurmcNADjvc58PnJjW1EcRg3TVt1eBgAVghrPnF1Tj4YeFEYdSCoPhU%2BCNjw3wiodUlxcRUI%2BAh4GgBXABta8L4oErT1CBUOzo7OZM5CiBcs2wgR0Yhy3yancbkysZHxRGwrJpbU9q7OntE%2BtsHvedGJmCnuCNmo%2BcXRaD4XWNzoSXPIiqgVdttPSsqkkAR-ogEMAALogoA

Jun 6, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017
ThatPlayer - in reply to warham

I believe the specs of the stepper motor should have the length of the shaft. The coupler itself should not add any height to the z-axis setup I believe. The stepper motor I am looking into buying says 20mm, so I think I will extend my Z-axis configuration by 20mm? (300mm + 20mm) and then use a 330 (300mm + the 30mm it says to add) sound okay?

Or are we ignoring the 30mm ? Because that one confuses me. That model seems to have a 300mm leadscrew

Actually looking at the amazing model some more, wouldn't you just lose some spacing at the bottom of the printer ? (You'd run into the coupler). I do not think the extra length of the leadscrew will hit anything. According to the model there is 58mm space in between, and you will just lose some extra space at the bottom.


Jun 6, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017
warham - in reply to ThatPlayer

If your coupler allows the lead screw and motor shaft to touch then you only need to account for the length of the motor shaft. If not then it seems you are looking at the motor shaft length plus the gap in the coupler between the shaft and lead screw. Mine has a gap of around 1cm which is enough to not allow the Z rods to reach the lower clamps without turning them upside down. I cant lower the upper rails to accommodate because the lead screw will stick up too high at that point. So I suggest Z height plus maybe 15mm ish lead screw but not 30mm.
If the gap in the model is correct there should be room to play since the shaft and the coupler should eat up around 30mm. My build only has a few mm to play with though.

Do you mean 15mm or 15cm? 15cm seems like alot.

Jun 6, 2017 - Modified Jun 6, 2017
warham - in reply to ThatPlayer
whups   MM.     Hopefully someone else will chime in using couplers.  I spoke to Bigsis, he said he ran into the problem but was able to lower the upper crossmembers a little to compensate.

I'm not sure if its bad form to do this before I even build the printer, but I drew it and people asked, so here is my attempt at a BLTouch Mount that does not require and modifications of Scott_3D's original carrier design. Of course I'll change it based on someone trying it.


Hypercube Evolution Additions/Mods
by jfint

This is now tested by 1 whole person, lol.

Yes but that one person is a Sith Lord so that is worth at least two people :-)

Is there ever really a need for a sensor? Seems like just extra weight. If the bed is so warped that it creates problems its time to get a new bed, imo

Jun 5, 2017 - Modified Jun 10, 2017

Suggest ordering m6x12mm screws and hammer nuts for frame assembly or m5x12mm screws for the corner brackets........ if you are using misumi extrusion its easier to assemble than 10mm because of the channel depth.

Thank you very much for your design! It is perfect!

Comments deleted.

What is the layer resolution? Can you give information.

For TR8
200steps per revolution
32 Microstepping (DRV8825)

4/(200*32) = 625nm (theoretically)

Thanks for the work!
Do you think I can use this kind of extrusuion? Its the only thing avaible in germany for a fair price:

Jun 3, 2017 - Modified Jun 3, 2017
Awakened - in reply to PW-Sys

Wow that's a good price! I was just looking at ebay.de :) Danke!

For those who were asking for the Repetier configuration file I have finally uploaded it. Sorry for the delay..

Wow. You have done an incredible job in making it so easy for people to understand and build this machine.


PS - I'd love to tip you, but you don't have the feature activated on your account.

Hi, Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.

FYI I have now linked a paypal account with Thingiverse.

How much approximately it cost?

$250 for hardware (springs, bed, pulleys, bearings, belts, etc). $250 for the extrusions, bolts, hammered nuts, internal brackets, etc, plus the cost of the hot end, ramps board, steppers, power supply (about $150). So realistically you are looking at about $650 (including shipping and taxes).

Cost depends greatly on the source and type of components you use. I would think between $300 - $600 depending on your selection. The extrusions are costing around $100 depending on where you get them.

I suggest ordering as much as possible from china, extra even... a bag of 100 screws might be about $8 shipped where as locally 1 screw might be $0.48.
I probably spent $100 on a small amount hardware that I missed ordering from china because I didn't want to wait for another shipment. This kind of goes without saying but it bit me in the tail.

Alright, most of the parts have come in but enough to the point where I can start building. Alot of people have messaged me and I think I am going to stream the build. I rented some equipment and we will try this. I have never done this sort of thing before and have never built a 3D Printer so this could go very well or very bad :D. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWI1LZf7RHA This will be the link for the stream.

Jun 2, 2017 - Modified Jun 2, 2017

So, finally I found time to make a mount for the E3D Chimera/Cyclops Dual Extruder hotends.

Get it here:


Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis

Are you planning on this upgrade for your hypercube? I was thinking of going the Y dual fillament feed.

Yes, I ordered the Chimera ( a clone ) and I will definately try that out. Maybe I try the Y dual later, for the moment I would like to have a clear color distinction and I am not sure, that will work with that Y thing. But I am always willing to experiment :)

Yes, having to use a colour change tower is a pain and wastes fillament. What about ooze with the dual extruder through?

what about "6in1 Flux Capacitor" from IEC? same size of a j-head just the triple Y part is a bit bigger....

I will try to fight the ooze with a constant slow, but steady retraction on the head that is not printing. That is the recommendation of the E3D guys. If the clone only works halfways good, I am going for the original from E3D to see how that is.

How do you configure that feature?

Simplify3D has 2 script tabs : Retraction script and ToolChange Script.

I will have to experiment with these. I will let you know, when I have it here and start printint DUAL :)

Pretty complete BOM, but can anyone point me at what all the round rods are? I would be look at the double Z-axis version. Also...what about a list of parts that make up the Hot end? I don't have a prusa i3 to convert, and there are many options over there at E3D, this would include the fans and whatever else is needed. I've been using 3d printers for about a year now at work, but I haven't built one yet.

Jun 2, 2017 - Modified Jun 2, 2017
SCOTT_3D - in reply to jfint

I would recommend buying a complete hotend kit from E3D. They include all the parts you need. Just choose whether you want to go for 3mm or 1.75mm versions, and 12v or 24v.

For me, I use 1.75mm filament and run everything on 24V except for the fans.

I have been lucky with rods from China, but I did not by them from random places. I purchased from sellers that specialise in linear motion products. Worth spending a bit more to get what you expect.


Please could you tell witch seller you got the rods? Are those of the BOM links?

Thank you!

Thank you! Unfortunately they do not send to Brazil :D

And thank you for the BOM spreadsheet! I was starting mine taking notes from the videos and photos and yours is just perfect!

I found some local dealers for the rods, bearings and extrusion and I am just waiting for the prices - even if they are a title more expensive than China I will have the advantage of warranty and sure quality and avoiding excessive importation taxes we have here. But I am expecting much higher prices.... So I would love to have a good reference for a Chinese dealer for the rods.

I just realized that Scott's BOM does not have the link for the Rods.

pd tech is also on amazon, dunno if amazon is also in brazil.

Jun 4, 2017 - Modified Jun 4, 2017
jfint - in reply to brunofporto

Try contacting them, they are also on ebay, where its easier to find the "contact" link., I have not talked to him personally, but I have been told he is very reasonalbe to deal with and might be willing to ship if you talk to him.

Please take my BOM with the grain of salt required, as its put together by someone who hasn't actually built anything. I am updating it as I learn things, for instance the smoothieboard brain that I found refferenced on the facebook group, with a config file posted there.

I'm also thinking it will be really easy to draw a mount for the BLTouch that just clamps in where the inductive sensor is mounted.

I'm still looking for some of the really small parts and playing with 3D models to figure out how its built before I do a bunch of ordering.

That is even greater as it seems we are at the same boat (I'm not sure if this expression will have the same cultural meaning in English). But I am someone who hasn't actually built anything too and trying to digest all information before start buying stuff.

Thank you for your advice!!!

Jun 2, 2017 - Modified Jun 2, 2017
jfint - in reply to SCOTT_3D

I notice a 10mm rail option on the x-axis, these rods are the longest, so is 10mm going to be superior, or is the stiff/weight trade-off a diminishing return? Also what about the round blower fan I see on top?

I'm getting much closer to understanding all of the parts, an to my own BOM with prices being kinda complete.

Comments deleted.

Don't buy the 8mm rod in China!
I bought it from 3 different supppiers - all were 7,93mm (which us 5/16 inch).
If you try the lm8uu bearings it they fit pretty ok but with a bit of wiggle in it.
Today my delivery from a local supplier arrived with the rods being 7,99mm (i have to double check both values with a micrometer this weekend) and the fitting was so much better.
The sealings are pushings the oil and you can not roll the bearing on the shaft but slide it smooth along.

Hi PW-sys thanks for the heads up were the 10mm and 12mm rods OK from aliexpress?

Did not try them, they were 30% cheaper locally in europe

Someone can pass me the drawing of the profiles in measurements please I'm in Brazil, I'm very interested in building one but I see that in the files does not have the technical drawing of the printer.
300x300x300 printing area

email: [email protected]

obrigado desde já

Igor, I just bought from Forseti here in Brazil the full aluminum extrusion set for the 300x300x300 dual z axis plus 12 3030 corner brackets with fasteners. All for R$ 298,04 (Without shipping). It is cheaper than China with the advantage of quality, warranty and monthly payments :D

I talked with Acácio at [email protected]


Can you please share the firmware?
Also, what slicer are you using?

I am using Repetier firmware. Sorry, but I still have not had a chance to upload the config. busy time at work.

For the slicer i am using Simplify3D.

Right thanks, That's the only thing holding me back. I don't know how to configure firmware for a corexy system.

Rest of the parts should be coming in this week. Would anyone be interested in me doing to a live stream of putting it all together? I am thinking of just creating a channel specifically for making this but don't want to put effort if no one is interested :D.

What was your total cost for the BOM?

Once I have it I will share. My build though is going to be more expensive because I am making a few changes. I am not a big fan of components to be outside of the 'cube' so I elongated the z extrusions by 100mm so that I can I have some room at the top for components. Not to mention will be adding a raspberry pi with octoprint along with the standard LCD interface. I also had to stop ordering from aliexpress as some of the packages are taking forever and Im still ordering parts. If I order a part now off of aliexpress then I shouldn't expect to start building until a month from now. I started ordering my parts on amazon. I cant start building because the 'L' connectors is the first thing needed to build it but it seems like it is going to be the last thing that arrives......just my freaking luck :/

I will say this if you live in the states do not spend more than $110USD on your extrusions. There are some manufacturers that are in the states and are cheaper than aliexpress.

I am in CA where are you ??
I love to help if you want..

Im in the midwest....very far from you :D

Huh... which part of the midwest? I'm in greater Cincinnati area. Maybe we can compare notes. I'm almost done with my build. Just waiting on Duet Wifi to come early next week.

It sounds as if you and I have the same idea. I ordered my Z extrusions 100mm longer as well, but my plan is to make a 'basement' underneath to keep the electronics in. I also ordered enough to have 4 extra X/Y extrusions to make a floor for it.
I did order my extrusions stateside, and I wish now that I had done a little more research on the fastener hardware and ordered from Amazon.

You know that 'Slow Boat from China' we've always heard of? Well my stuff is on that boat.

Of course I think I would have only saved on Shipping because most of the fasteners in the BOM I found on Amazon originated in China anyway and the shipping times were about the same.

sweet. If you do that live stream, I would definitely be interested in watching your build.

Comments deleted.

Yes please. That would be amazing.

Someone can pass me the drawing of the profiles in measurements please I'm in Brazil, I'm very interested in building one but I see that in the files does not have the technical drawing of the printer.

email: [email protected]

obrigado desde já

What is your desired build size ?

300x300x300 printing area

What is the lowest price that people have been able to get to with quality parts for the entire part lsit?

If you look at this link, the AliExpress seller has put together an entire BOM with their costings. It comes to USD$335 not including shipping.

Has anyone here used an 8mm detection level sensor? I ordered a 4mm and an 8mm just in case its needed when using glass/pei on the bed. The carriage is designed to hold the 4 which i believe is 12mm diameter. The 8mm is something like 18mm diameter. Anyone have experience with this that could share?


I'm planing to build this printer and was wondering what do I need to change in order to use the orginal frame size with a 214x214mm heat bed? Is it enough to just change x extrusion length in order to mount the heat bed?
Yes I know that the frame size is over kill for that print size but my plan is to use as much parts that I have and upgrade later in the future.

Thank you in advance :)


use the configurator (the xlsx file) this will give you the length of all the extrusions and rods. the printed parts are all the same.

May 30, 2017 - Modified May 30, 2017
Zuru1 - in reply to PW-Sys

I have used that to get the measurements needed.
My idea is simply to build the frame for the 300X300mm heat bed but instead of using that bed use a 214X214mm heat bed which gives me room to later upgrade to the larger heat bed without buying new extrusions.

Is this possible?

May 30, 2017 - Modified May 30, 2017
TunnelVision - in reply to Zuru1

Using the spreadsheet, if you enter a "Min. Build Volume / Travel" of 300x300x300mm and choose the Mk2 Heat Bed (214x214mm) as your build platform you will get the necessary short dimension (140mm) for the Y bed frame 2020 extrusion.

However, if you're planning to add a 300x300 build platform at some point you might be better off building a full size bed that can accommodate the smaller platform perhaps by turning the bed brackets around e.g.


In contrast, the 300x300 (actually 328x328) bed looks something like:


I made some adjustable bed holders, that can be turned in the desired direction.


I had the same problem in the beginning. I started to print with a 213x213mm, since I was waiting for my 300x300mm silicon heat mat
So I used these bedholders.

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis

Awosome idea, why didn't I think of that?
I will use ur second approach since it's cut once and just mount in accordance with bed size.

Thanks for the brilliant idea.

Do you have or plan to post some additional extruder mount attachments? You showed a dial gauge mount in your video and I'm wondering if you're going to have a dual extruder or some other attachments as well? I plan to wire my harness with an industrial connector (m12 12pin connector) and make it a single connector hotswap. That way I can have an extruder for each material and not mix abrasive/different melt temp extruders.

Hello Scott,
I want to modify the X carriage to fit other equipments. Is it possible to have cad files please ? (Inventor is perfect)
Thanks !

Comments deleted.

Hello HyperCube Evolution User

I would like to use an E3D V6 with a BL-Touch sensor on the HyperCube Evolution, or alternatively an E3D Chimera with a BL-Touch sensor.

Does anyone already have a suitable stl file for a hotend-holder for one of the two combinations?

I would be glad if someone could help me there.

with friendly greetings from Germany

Michael aka Scotsman

A custom mount will be needed for the BL touch. The current extruder mount is only for the E3D v6 hotend.

Hi Scott,

I am currently listing out things to convert my cube style cartisian printer which is built with 2020 extrusions to hypercube styled ones. I wanted to know whether is it possible to use the evo X and Y mount parts with the original hypercube motor mounts?

Hi. I am not 100% certain. When I designed all of the parts I made sure all of the pulleys were a lined up correctly. The Hypercube motor mounts may have a different motor centre line.

Hello here,
The remix looks very good, but why have you removed the 10mm aluminum axes on X? It is the only moving part of the machine and therefore to avoid artifacts it must be as light as possible. I confess I do not understand this point.
Moreover it is what blocks me to mount this model compared to the original model, the parts being more massive we add weight for not much. The idea of ​​tech2c that was proven in his latest video demonstrates that weight greatly affects the print fault.
This can be compared to a delta printer, which has only the weight of the printhead, which is why delta prints are so successful.
The use of the 3030 profile is not necessarily justified for a volume of printing of 20x20x20 but it is the design that wants this I think especially to those who want to transform their base prusa.
I am also surprised the parts of the original is not compatible with this version.
Merite you finally the name of his elder ???
To meditate...

May 28, 2017 - Modified May 28, 2017
CanadianTRamp - in reply to Absolem

If you have print quality problems can be improved by rotating the stl file from 15 degrees to 30 degrees. Although it is not a correct remedy... ;)
Many people will make HypercubeEvolution from now on.
SCOTT_3D Designs stl files very cool (Shape and dimensions)
Tech2c 3D Printers are easy to change even for beginners.
Both tech2c and SCOTT_3D must be excellent creators.
Because many completed parts are not preferred for those who like to change but the concept of HypercubeEvolution will not shake.

This is not a remix... every part is designed from scratch to be as simple and elegant as I could. I'm not going to enter into a debate about rods as this is a matter of preference. Tech2C even prooved that a "standard" steel rod setup can print without artifacts. Proof is in the printing and the results are excellent prints.

May 30, 2017 - Modified May 30, 2017
HikariNoKitsune - in reply to SCOTT_3D

While I agree with you, it wasn't about 'printing without artifacts', it was about 'printing as fast as you can without artifacts'. 8mm rods are fine if printing with slow to moderate speeds, but if you want to retain quality while printing at plus 60mm/s then steel rods are a huge no go. Which lets face it... the majority of people trying to build a CoreXY machine, are doing it because they are 'supposed' to be insanely fast printers even compared to a delta.

where as my goal is to just build one of every type: Prusa i3 Style, CoreXY Style, Delta Style, and eventually SCARA Style. =D

Also... I can't really agree at all about your parts being 'simple' and 'elegant'... Sure it looks nice, but trying to modify the STL so that it'll fit a 12mm outer diameter bushing, is nearly impossible because of the strange way the nut traps are positioned... One can not simply just fill in the needed space to adjust for the bushing diameter because of those nut traps.


I found some problem I think. In configuration file v1.3 there are length of 2020 extrusion profiles.
I think there could be 5 profiles for heated bed, instead of 3 profiles, which are written(There are 140mm 1x and 400mm 2x for 30cmx30cm bed). I don´t know if it´s correct or not.
Please help.
However the config is excellent.
Great job !

Best regards
Lukas :--)

Looks like you have set the configurator for a single Z axis which only has 3 2020 extrusions for the bed frame. The dual Z version uses 4 extrusions. In the videos I use a fifth extrusion as I am experimenting with a central bed support.

For dual Z axes and 30x30cm HB I need 2x 415mm and 2x 245mm 2020 extrusions and In case with central bed support I will order another one 245mm 2020 extrusion.
Right ?


Correct. But I have not had success getting a central bed support to work just yet. I tried gluing a nut onto the underside of the headbed but the shinny surface meant that it did not stick....

And last question.
I ordered this lead screw : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RepRap-3D-Printer-THSL-300-8D-Lead-Screw-Dia-8MM-Thread-8mm-Length-300mm-with-Copper/32435304660.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.dzdDkc

It´s 500mm long so build travel distance on Z axe will be 470mm ?
So I will buy linear guides and extrusions with values for X-300mm, Y-300mm and Z-470mm.
Because I think the nut on the lead screw will be about 3cm high so Z travel could be 470mm.

All the best


May 29, 2017 - Modified May 30, 2017
lkvapil - in reply to lkvapil

Please. :--)


Is ABS good for printing the parts?


I had a terrible time trying to get ABS to print well without unwanted issues with part shrinkage and curling. If you have a setup that can print ABS well then ABS will be more than strong enough.

I have added the printed parts list to the Configuration spreadsheet on Thingiverse. Thanks Henri for the head start! It shows that I still need to create a few part versions to suit different linear rail diameter combinations.

I am very intersted in building this, but I was wondering how the software side of it will work to where I can updload prints to it. Basically, I get how to build it, but what do you do after it is built mechanically? (I am very new to this sort of thing)

If you mean the software side as in the plastic parts (stl files)? If so then you will need someone to print them if you don't have your own printer.
If you could explain in more detail, more people may chime in. cheers

What I mean is that I'm curious what software will upload the stl files to the hypercube and how to program the printer to know how to print the parts. Thanks

May 27, 2017 - Modified May 27, 2017
terryb58 - in reply to DavisFamily

You'll need a motherboard to control all the parts of the printer. The firmware you load (flash) onto the motherboard is what your PC software talks to to print parts. Marlin firmware (marlinfw.org) is probably the most widely used firmware. As to the PC side, you will need what you call a "slicer" which takes the model files (STL) and creates the g-code which is a bunch of instructions that the firmware understands. G-code tells the printer to set temperatures for the hot end and the print bed, where to move the hot end, how much and when to extrude plastic, etc.

There are various PC side software you can use and best news most are free. Check out this article https://all3dp.com/1/best-free-3d-printing-software-3d-printer-program/

What have people used for extruders?

MK8 should do, you can bolt it to the frame with M4 t-nuts

Is Scott planning on releasing more videos of the build process and parts?

there are 8 videos

Yeah I know that. I have already watched them, I was asking if he is planning on uploading more.

Hi, I am back from my travel for work. What are people interested to see?

Would love to see your Hypercube Evo working and calibrated! Speed tests would also be cool. Honestly just would like more Hypercube Evo videos... great job on everything so far!

Also am considering https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1990810 for the hotend for this machine. I am thinking I may need to tweak the lengths to allow the space for it.

Actually reconsidering this hotend. While it looks great I have done further reading. It seems the goal of a core xy is to keep the gantry as light as possible yet strong. Seems adding the extra weight of a direct drive may not be the best idea. I think I will just stick with a Bowden setup for the first machine and keep that weight down. I have a couple spare E3D extruders floating around anyways so it's a starting point.

Man that thing looks sick! As for the lengths of your X axis, It definitely would not hurt to add 25-50mm per side even if you don't use all of it. Down the road you may want to put a bigger bed on it, or who knows what else.
I think this is a great design as is, but I personally want to build something (almost) future proof to begin with so I don't have to rebuild it later as better things/ideas come around (and they will).
Most people that are even entertaining a build from scratch like this are very serious about this hobby and most likely don't mind the size of this machine, so what's a few more inches!

You are correct and even adding an extra 50mm keeps the build to just under 20 inches by my calculation.

I am sold on this one. I have 4 Rigidbot Printers and I think I am going to start building these and selling off the rigidbots. I have been wanting a Core XY for awhile and am tired of the Y bed slinging back and forth. So I have two things.

One is anyone interested in a G+ or facebook group for this? I belong to a G+ group for my Rigidbots and it has been an incredible source of information. I am happy to start one up and hand over Moderation to a more appropiate person than myself as I don't know the in's and out's of this printer.

Two I have a hell of a time getting high quality prints out of my Rigidbots with PETG (PLA is amazing on them) Would anyone be interested in commisioning a set of Parts for me so I could get one built and then I can hopefully dial it in better and print my own PETG parts for my other machines. (Scott those owls look absolutely amazing)

Request sent to join the group. :-)

Yup already joined. Thanks a bunch

where you located

Sorry I forgot to say. I am in Colorado Springs, CO, USA

gonna design me a mount lol for my e3d Chimera

are u building it to specs
model with 2 z steppers

May 25, 2017 - Modified May 25, 2017
DarthOctane - in reply to bmadd

yes I am. Dual Zed baby..... Sorry I love watching Scott's videos and every time he says Zed Pulp Fiction plays in my head.

I got my parts printing just placed my order if all goes well with the prints I'm sure we can work it out

i would like to design my mount for my e3d Chimera any way i can get some help


facebook wouldn't accept Hypercube Evolution , Hypercube-Evolution , Hypercube.Evolution , so there it is all one word.

May 24, 2017 - Modified May 24, 2017

I'm building a model of the HyperCube Evolution in Fusion 360 and haven't been able to find details of how the Y_End_Stop_Bracket is used. Is this approximately correct (looking at the left motor)?


May 24, 2017 - Modified May 24, 2017
Biggsis - in reply to TunnelVision

It is actually mounted the other way around. I just made a photo, can I upload photos here? Well, here is the link to a photo. There you can see, how it is on my working EVO.


we need two of these correct? am I supposed to mirror one for the other side?

If you want to use MIN AND MAX endstops, you have to mount 2 of these. On my EVO only one is used, the MIN endstop, MAX is determined by the firmware.

Perfect! Thank you.

Comments deleted.

I have added 80mm to the z axis in order to get some space for the ramps, should I add those 80mm to the z rod too? This will be a non printers surface space down the useful space I mean this won't be part of the space used to print

If you move the lower cross members up by the 80mm then no you will not need to increase the length of the Z rods.

Thanks, I'm going to order them and I wanted to know this before :D

Hey Scott,

GREAT FRIGGIN WORK!!! Really amazing - not only the printer, but especially all the documentation (Excel spreadsheet, youtube...). I am looking forward to building a machine.

Speaking of which: Same question as Elstak, warham and others: Are the Autodesk Inventor CAD files available somewhere? I would like to tinker a bit and realize some parking mechanism for different tool heads (like https://youtu.be/E3vc4A_5x28 with kinematic magnetic mounting). I think this would be a killer-feature for the Hypercube Evo, especially considering you already do have some kind of quick change mechanism included. Having the Inventor CAD files would make appropriate designing and tinkering A LOT easier and less hacky.

Thank you very much!

Scott, any reply would be highly appreciated.

me too

For anyone who wants to use 10mm rods on the X axis, this holder accepts Igus bushings and fits in the space of an LM8LUU required by the original X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336683

Igus 10mm Bushing Holder for LM8LUU

For the linear guides, are these custom cut? I am not able to cut these is why I ask.

You can usually specify exactly how long you want them from whoever you buy them from.
(I suggest eBay for the best deals on the rods)

Thanks that helps!

May 24, 2017 - Modified May 24, 2017
warham - in reply to nate25j

Amazon also has a vendor called pdtech that will cut to length.

Hey guys trivia question:
How much more height will I need if:
1.- I want all electronics to be below the Hypercube (much like the ultimaker 2 clone) and also
2.- For having this fully enclosed at the top (something like Folgertech FT-5 top)

For more height, just add your desired extra mm to the 4x Z-Extrusions.

There has no one done any enclosure yet.. I suppose you have to be a pioneer ;)

Fair enough, that is why we all gather in this sort of places isn't it? =)
I just need more spare time, too much work :P

i hope someone makes a side or top mount for the electronics

Hi Scott,

first thanks for the great Design! At the moment I'm waiting for all the Parts to arrive. It would be great to have a list of parts to print (with quantity).
Which material did you use?

All of my parts are printed in PETG.

Any tips for not getting the ends to curl? Im getting by but its noticeable

Bed adhesion and temperature are the key. I print on blue tape with a bed running at 75 degC and extruder temp 230-240 degC.

Somewhere in the comments, there is a list of the parts you have to print.

I got my last set of extrusions from them. Price was reasonable. Are they offering a complete kit of parts for the HyperCube Evolution? Can you please share the link?



It is that link he linked (Also same link as the one in your description). They list the almost full BOM and say contact them for price. When I asked it was 330$ + 150$ shipping to US

Wow, i paid 170 EUR including shipping within germany at http://alu-profil-technik.de/
And that was for all alu extrusions for a 500mm³ printer size. Also ordered the brackets from them...

well, not all profile are the same, the 3030 from that site are 0.9kg/m , i buy mine from UK and are 1.5kg/m so are quite expensive. Alu like copper is priced per kilo.

For comparison, Bosch Rexroth 30x30 looks to be around 0.85kg/m.

Yes you are basically right. But the chineese stuff is 1.08. So i thought a bit less weight shouldnt be so bad. And it is still rock solid. I can put my whole 95kg on the frame and it wont move a bit.

very good answer.

I didn't see the link, but you can see if you select any Hypercube evolution related item from them

They had just posted that BOM. From Scotts post he bought from different suppliers as his BOM list.
I just messaged them and I am currently getting a price - I'm swapping out to Arduino Due and the Ramps-FD. By the time I receive my kit I hopefully will have the knowledge to install the upgrade. I'll keep you posted on costs and if I go ahead.

Frame ordered for 400x400x450mm but with 2 options for a 350mm bed and a 400mm bed

curious how that turns out, i didnt realize someone would remix the parts to be able to use 10mm rods. I didnt want to run longer than 500mm with the 8mm rods so i stopped at 350x360 but went really tall.

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 21, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to RoskaL

Wow, that's going to be a monster!
You might want to use 10mm rods in place of the 8mm due to the much longer distances you are spanning.

Are you using the 2020 for the bed frame?

HyperCube Sisters

You can use Igus bushings with this older and the original X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336683

Igus 10mm Bushing Holder for LM8LUU

I would never use those. They are very sticky until they get moving.

Yeh 2020 for the bed. Just seen the price jump from 300 to 400 and it's quite alot lmao
My titan aero has arrived though to keep me amused for abit

I made a modified Extruder Mount for the Titan Aero for our EVO.
Get it here :


Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis

Why the price jump?

Titan Aero! Nice....

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 21, 2017
RoskaL - in reply to Mochanic

Anything over 500mm in linear rod's are like double the price, the heatbed is double, can see the silicon mat being pricey lol
Frame was only a few quid more so made sense at the time

@SCOTT_3D was you going to setup a Facebook group?

Hi Biggsis, just send request to group. Thank you in advance for acceptance!

Facebook Group would be cool, then we can share pictures easily!

So do 400mm on Z and you only need 500mm rods. (unless you use couplers on the motors)
Guessing you can't buy them from eBay?

May 20, 2017 - Modified May 20, 2017


I am considering metal Z rod support blocks.

It appears standard edge to rod center has options for 23mm or 20mm after comparing multiple drawings and vendors..
I am trying to eyeball your rod holders/Z motor mounts, I am reading what appears to be 22mm on the printed parts.
What should they actually be?


I am travelling for work at the moment so do not have the CAD model with me. But 22mm sounds familiar. The 23mm brackets should work as there is 2mm of adjustment in the Z nut holder.

I have bought the motors from BOM but they are 300mm not 300+ there is anything special i must do in order to mount them? should buy a smaller Z extrusion or something?

I would expect you could adjust for this depending on how your building it.. Another idea might be to use 3060 extrusion on the bottom sides of the frame where the motor mounts. Or if Scotts Z travel plus 30mm lead screws length general rule holds true then you might want to build your machine with a Z travel of 270mm rather than 300.

Fantastic job!

If i want to use a bltouch sensor for autolevel, i can use the designed parts for normal hypercube? Or aren't compatible?

I want to use cristal for my bed.


Since my Hypercube EVO is already printing for some days and I dont use any sensor at all, I can only say, that in my humble opinion you dont need any sensor. The DualZ axis construction is rock solid and does not bend in whatever direction at all.
I did level my bed by hand only once and that was exactly when the build was finished. Since then the EVO prints nearly 24/7 and I did not touch the level screws since then and prints are flawless.
Instead of the sensor I use an ordinary mechanical endstop with a adjustable screw. Plain and simple, but works without any problems.

Hi Biggsis,
May I ask how you fitted normal endstops on the X_ or Y_Carriage? Those opto slots are wat too narrow and small to fit normal ones?

I did NOT use normal endstops for X and Y, I used the optical ones, just as Scott suggested. Only for the Z-Axis I did not use the suggested inductive sensor, instead I used a mechanical endstop with an adjustable screw.

is anybody used it with linear rails? or mod it?

May 22, 2017 - Modified May 22, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to xsvmfhzwg4416zp

I have put my build on hold because after seeing how the Folger Tech FT-5 uses the linear rails, I too would like to implement them into my 3030 Hypercube Evolution build. There are guys claiming over 200mm/s on the FT-5 with flawless print quality. I would assume this is because there is ZERO play and no rough bearing harmonics when you use a linear rail rather than a round shaft with linear bearings.

Honestly I don't care how long it takes me, or how much it costs as I already have a new Prusa i3 MK2S that I can use for just about anything I need to print. So my new printer build will be much larger, much sturdier, have multiple attachments, and be fully enclosed once finally complete.

Check out this info on Linear Guides VS Rails:

So as promised I uploaded a new version of Scott's EXCEL sheet for the configuration of the Hypercube EVO.

This now includes a BOM European version. So it lists all the parts and their sources in Europe (Germany actually, but the shops have international pages too). Enjoy

Get it here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218/#files

Of course, credit goes to Scott for the original sheet, I just added the BOM.

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis

Great thanks :)

Is there someone that used the MGN12 lineaire slider for the XY ?

Nice job !

Did you have the 10mm version for the x-carriage part ? i would like to keep it light like tech2c so in 10mm alumiun version i see the 10-10mm Y part but not the X-carriage.

last question for printing orientation are all the part by default well oriented ? print as it ? it looks some part have tricky face without support.

Thanks for advice

You can use this holder with Igus bushings and the original X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336683

Igus 10mm Bushing Holder for LM8LUU

In my build I used standard 8mm steel rods for the X-carriage, exactly how Scott meant to build it. 10mm are used for the Y-carriage.
And all parts orientation is perfect. I printed all the parts just like this without any support and all turned out pretty well.

Thanks for this confirmation of print orientation i Will try like this so ... just wanna use 10mm rods on x to keep the weight as low as possible

if you compare the weight to a standard moving table printer with a giant arse 300 to 500mm 4-8lbs table this this is nothing, unless your like Elstak making a 600x600x600 machine hehe.

Guy's quick question, how many of the 100 T Nuts are used, they super expensive in South Africa almost a 100 dollers for 100 with shipping, and they cost $0.50 locally which still works out very expensive. Cheers

I needed about 50 of them for the pure DoubleZ version. Not included the ones for additional stuff like mounts for the RAMPS board, MosFet, Display etc.

Fantastic, thnx for this, so 70 should be enough

They are expensive here in the US too. Buy them from eBay, they are very cheap!

Ye I would but shipping is a equalizer lol and our customs like to rape people

May 18, 2017 - Modified May 19, 2017

Can someone tell me why there are so many bed bracket offsets 15/20/25/30/40 the configuration spreadsheet? Why would you need to change these if your bed stays the same in the selection above it?

I am pretty sure they are for different sized print beds.

That's what I would have thought too, but in the excel configuration file you tell it what print bed you want to use but it still gives you several choices of offsets.

in the cell under the selection of the bed bracket does it state, if your bed_bracket selection is OK or NOT_OK,

If it is OK, the extrusion length will be corrected accordingly, as bigger bed_brackets lead to smaller extrusion width's. Also the Heatbead and heatbed Mounting holes are taken into account.

Somewhere in the comments, SCOTT_3D adviced to take the biggest Bed-Bracket selection, which is OK for you

May 19, 2017 - Modified May 19, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to madejackson

For most of the sizes I get "OK" in the configurer. Don't really see anything changing when I choose different offsets.
I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
I'm ordering plenty of extra extrusion for the bed anyway. 2020 is super cheap!

Comments deleted.

Was wondering if you was planning on using a titan aero?

It's on my list. I just need to see what all changes I'll have to make to the printed file to mount it.

Awesome, would you mind sharing if you do? I'm about to order one for my prusa but would love to use it once I've built the evolution

Definitely will! (I have a new prusa mk2s, that I love the way it is... I figured I'd leave it exactly as is and just build a bigger printer with all the mods I can think of up front)

Awesome! I'm thinking of going with a 300x300x450 size maybe 400 for this , it should be plenty rigid enough to swing the aero around with no issues

I'm doing 300x300x500 (travel distance) but with additional height above so I can completely enclose it using magnets embedded into Lexan.
Also doing the DuetWifi 32 bit controller and a PanelDue touch screen.
Should be a beast by the time I'm done.

You have good taste sir, that's the way I'm going with duet
It's a 24v board isn't it?
What are your thoughts on carbon tits for the x axis to keep weight right down. Nearly an extra half kilo with steel rods in comparison

Yes, it can run 12v or 24v, and has selectable outputs for fans 5v\12v\24v.
I'm not really sold on the carbon rods yet, I haven't seen any info on how well they hold up over time. Plus I know the tolerances are not nearly as good as the stainless or chromed shafts. (metal shafts are usually ground to make them perfectly round and to exact size) Carbon tube will have variances which will probably be ok for most applications, but I want a really ridged machine because not only am I putting an extruder on it, but also a laser engraver, and a high speed router for light carving/milling. (mainly for plastics) Thus the main reason I want to be able to totally enclose it.

I'm looking at the Duet Wifi and it looks like the fan option is either 5V or VIN (Which will either be 12V or 24V). So if you're running off 24V you do not get the option of 12V.

Basing it off the https://duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_WiFi_wiring_diagrams

Also I don't think the optical endstop switches here work without replacing some resistors see the last part of https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches

I think you're right about the 12/24v thing. Its an easy fix either way. (cheap buck converter if you want to use 12v fans on a 24v supply)
As for the resistors, I have read that before too. It too is fairly straight forward to get optical end stops to work if that's what you choose to use. (but then again I have seen optical end stops that are compatible with both 3.3v and 5v.)

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 21, 2017
ThatPlayer - in reply to Mochanic

Got a link? I wouldn't mind not having to figure out how to change resistors. I'm leaning towards getting a duet wifi for my own build

I mean a link to the endstops that you said are compatible with both 3.3v and 5v

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 21, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to ThatPlayer

I'll have to look for it again, after I researched end switches, I decided against using optical end stops, so I didn't save the links to them.
Do a little research of your own before deciding on which type to use.

MANY people choose hall effect or mechanical microswitches over opto sensor for several reasons.

Read these 2 articles and tell me which one you think I chose:

You are going to use a Z probe right?

That was exactly my thought on the carbon, there will be flex surely and error need bushings rather than ball bearings. I wanted a solid machine that is bomb proof. No flexing. High quality bearings, ground hardened rods etc
Id love a laser that could cut thin acrylic (4/5 mm) but not sure if there are any peril enough to add to a printer, I haven't looked into that yet though

well also 0.5mm thick steel tube flex as 10x9 carbon tube.... i'm using 10x3 mm carbon tube high module it start flexing over 1000mm... and 16x5.5 allow me to use 2000mm tube with no flexion.

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 22, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to Elstak

We are not talking about tubes.
Only solid ground and chromed steel rods or ground and polished stainless rods. (Like 99% of all 3d printers come with)

polstruded bars can't be consider useful, just tech2c had think was a good idea use it, start to buy the real carbon fiber not the cheaper version. No way for the steel to be as the carbon fiber. Just buy a good product, made with good resin.

I have even considered using larger linear rails. Maybe 10mm over the 8mm for X, and 12mm for both Y and Z, but I'd have to make quite few changes to the printed files. That may have to wait until I build the first one to see what all would change.
I am not trying to build a supper fast light weight printer, My Prusa MK2S is plenty fast enough. I want an all in one machine, so rigidity is more important to me than speed.

Has anyone done a fully 2020 build with dual z-axes?

For 2020-Builds you should headover to the original Hypercube. This one is built in 3030

Thanks for your answer. I checked that one but there has been comments about the build plate sagging due to the weight of the z-axis. This one has reinforced 12mm rods which I believe is better. That is why I wanted to check if anyone has made the hypercube evo using fully 2020 extrusions.
Thanks again.

Comments deleted.
May 18, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to _zafff_

Its doubtful that anybody would since the whole point of the evolution was to make the original hypercube stiffer and simplify the build/prints.
By using 2020 you would have to use the prints from the original hypercube which means it wouldn't be an evolution, or heavily modify the 3030 prints which would make no sense at all.
Do yourself a favor and just build a 3030 evolution, it won't cost that much more.

This is the copied version of the excel sheet for ease of access and in the event excel is not installed.

biggsis has a version for europe with euro BOM maybe you could add.

Comments deleted.

Hi ! It's a really nice work ! I just can't find the firmware you modified . Can you post the link in comment ?

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
madejackson - in reply to Peter0021

He's using repetier with the configuration-file in the stl-files section

edit: Right... My Fault, there is no config-file, he just mentioned that he will upload it later...

There is no Repetier config file in the STL section, there is an EXCEL sheet for frame calculation, thats it.

Right... My Fault, there is no config-file, he just mentioned that he will upload it later...

As soon as I receive my missing parts (i didn't receive my rods yet) i'll test and share my own config, but this can take some more days.

Biggsis, probably you're willing to share your file of your marlin-setup?

If you don't know then why are you even here!

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017

Has anyone seen that the Aliexpress link for the 3030 and 2020 extrusions has the HyperCube Evolution BOM in the item description and seems to be saying to contact them for the price?

I messaged them and they're saying 330$ for everything there and 150$ for shipping to the US

you can get the stuff from china for cheap if its not very long. search the site and also ask the vendors because you can often get a better shipping method/ lower cost..

In usa i ordered from https://us.misumi-ec.com
You can also order from company that carry the tslots.com products.
I avoided the stuff amazon carries from 8020 inc because it apparently does not conform to the asian and euro specs in that T nuts often do not fit and need to be purchased for 8020 inc extrusion.