HyperCube Evolution

by SCOTT_3D, published

HyperCube Evolution by SCOTT_3D Apr 18, 2017
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The HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer is a CoreXY printer inspired by the excellent HyperCube 3D Printer developed by Tech2C. The belt arrangement on that printer was the neatest CoreXY arrangement that I have seen.

I have leveraged the great work that Tech2C has done to refine his design and incorporated this with my own further development to reduce the number of printed parts and simplify the build.

Design goals for the HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer:

  1. Increase the stiffness of the printer to further improve / reduce vibration artefacts.

    • 3030 extrusion used for the frame
    • 2020 extrusion used for the build platform frame
    • 8mm diameter X rails
    • 10mm diameter Y rails
    • 12mm diameter Z rails
  2. Minimise the size of the printer for the chosen build volume.
    • Parametric CAD design in Autodesk Inventor
    • Excel spreadsheet provided to allow for customised printer size

The prototype printer, with a build volume of 300 x 300 x 300, met with all expectation but did show some small bed vibrations when printing at high speed due to the large bed and counter levered design. Therefore, two build options are available. A single Z axis version for smaller build platforms and a double Z axis version for larger beds or those wishing for a rock solid build platform.

The Evolution also features a quick attach X carriage to allow for interchangeable tools e.g. the extruder mount and a DTI mount for tramming the build platform.

More to come over the next few weeks as I'm awaiting parts for upgrade the prototype to use the double Z axis, and also the parts to convert my Geetech Prusa i3 into another HyperCube Evolution.


20.04.2017 Configuration file updated, multiple size Bed Brackets added
22.04.2017 BOM added
23.04.2017 Introduction video added https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rctCsUGnX8&feature=youtu.be
23.04.2017 Added 4 variations of Y carriage to suit different combinations of 8mm and 10mm rails. Plus bearing clamps to suit. Note - current X carriage only suits LM8UU bearings. An adaptor will be needed to use 10mm bushings.
30.04.2017 Error found in spreadsheet which resulted in 10mm rails being 30mm too long. Version 1.2 uploaded.
09.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Axis Linear Rail Bracket - Double Z - Left & Right.
13.05.2017 Version 1.1 Z Nut Bracket - modified for easier assembly
13.05.2017 Z Nut Bracket for T10 leadscrew added


Frame and linear guides – use the Excel spreadsheet to calculate the lengths required for your custom size.

3030 and 2020 extrusion

16 x L type bracket for 3030 extrusion

8 x 3030 corner brackets


M5 x 10 Button head screws

M3 Socket head screws

100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 3030 extrusion

100pcs M5 T Hammer Nuts for 2020 extrusion

4 x 3mm dowel pins

100pcs M3 5x5 Brass knurled insert


1 or 2 x NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8 – length needs to be ~30mm longer than required Z travel, depending on nut type

3 x NEMA 17 42mm Stepper Motors

Pulleys and Belts

2 x GT2 Timing Pulley (20 teeth) 5mm bore for 6mm belt
6 x GT2 Idler Pulley (20 teeth) 3mm bore
2 x GT2 Idler Pulley without teeth (20 teeth) 3mm bore
5m Polyurethane GT2 6mm belt

Linear Bearings

4 x LM12UU 12mm Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM10UU 10mm Linear Ball Bearings or 2 x LM10LUU 10mm Long Linear Ball Bearings
4 x LM8UU 8mm Linear Ball Bearings

Heated Bed components

1 x Heated Bed 300x300

4 or 6 x Levelling screws

1 x 100kohm NTC3950 thermistor

Control System

1 x 24V 400W power supply

1 x RAMPS 1.4 with stepper drivers and display – NOTE: This board needs to be modified to run a 24V system. If you don’t then you will kill the Arduino Mega!

1 x RAMPS 1.4 fan extender module – use to run the 12V fans

1 x DC-DC 24V-12V step down module

1 x Arduino MEGA 2560

1 x Power expansion module (if needed)

1 x 5V NPN M12 inductive sensor

4 x Optical end stops


5m x 24AWG 4 core UL2464 cable

5m x 24AWG Red Black cable

2m x 14AWG Silicone cable

5m x Servo extension cable

Connectors for Stepper motors

Print Settings


HyperCube Evolution








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Is Scott planning on releasing more videos of the build process and parts?

there are 8 videos

Yeah I know that. I have already watched them, I was asking if he is planning on uploading more.

Also am considering https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1990810 for the hotend for this machine. I am thinking I may need to tweak the lengths to allow the space for it.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - Side Mount Version

Man that thing looks sick! As for the lengths of your X axis, It definitely would not hurt to add 25-50mm per side even if you don't use all of it. Down the road you may want to put a bigger bed on it, or who knows what else.
I think this is a great design as is, but I personally want to build something (almost) future proof to begin with so I don't have to rebuild it later as better things/ideas come around (and they will).
Most people that are even entertaining a build from scratch like this are very serious about this hobby and most likely don't mind the size of this machine, so what's a few more inches!

You are correct and even adding an extra 50mm keeps the build to just under 20 inches by my calculation.

I am sold on this one. I have 4 Rigidbot Printers and I think I am going to start building these and selling off the rigidbots. I have been wanting a Core XY for awhile and am tired of the Y bed slinging back and forth. So I have two things.

One is anyone interested in a G+ or facebook group for this? I belong to a G+ group for my Rigidbots and it has been an incredible source of information. I am happy to start one up and hand over Moderation to a more appropiate person than myself as I don't know the in's and out's of this printer.

Two I have a hell of a time getting high quality prints out of my Rigidbots with PETG (PLA is amazing on them) Would anyone be interested in commisioning a set of Parts for me so I could get one built and then I can hopefully dial it in better and print my own PETG parts for my other machines. (Scott those owls look absolutely amazing)

Request sent to join the group. :-)

Yup already joined. Thanks a bunch

where you located

Sorry I forgot to say. I am in Colorado Springs, CO, USA

gonna design me a mount lol for my e3d Chimera

are u building it to specs
model with 2 z steppers

20 hours ago - Modified 20 hours ago
DarthOctane - in reply to bmadd

yes I am. Dual Zed baby..... Sorry I love watching Scott's videos and every time he says Zed Pulp Fiction plays in my head.

I got my parts printing just placed my order if all goes well with the prints I'm sure we can work it out

i would like to design my mount for my e3d Chimera any way i can get some help


facebook wouldn't accept Hypercube Evolution , Hypercube-Evolution , Hypercube.Evolution , so there it is all one word.

1 day ago - Modified 1 day ago

I'm building a model of the HyperCube Evolution in Fusion 360 and haven't been able to find details of how the Y_End_Stop_Bracket is used. Is this approximately correct (looking at the left motor)?


22 hours ago - Modified 22 hours ago
Biggsis - in reply to TunnelVision

It is actually mounted the other way around. I just made a photo, can I upload photos here? Well, here is the link to a photo. There you can see, how it is on my working EVO.


Perfect! Thank you.

Comments deleted.

I have added 80mm to the z axis in order to get some space for the ramps, should I add those 80mm to the z rod too? This will be a non printers surface space down the useful space I mean this won't be part of the space used to print

If you move the lower cross members up by the 80mm then no you will not need to increase the length of the Z rods.

Thanks, I'm going to order them and I wanted to know this before :D

Hey Scott,

GREAT FRIGGIN WORK!!! Really amazing - not only the printer, but especially all the documentation (Excel spreadsheet, youtube...). I am looking forward to building a machine.

Speaking of which: Same question as Elstak, warham and others: Are the Autodesk Inventor CAD files available somewhere? I would like to tinker a bit and realize some parking mechanism for different tool heads (like https://youtu.be/E3vc4A_5x28 with kinematic magnetic mounting). I think this would be a killer-feature for the Hypercube Evo, especially considering you already do have some kind of quick change mechanism included. Having the Inventor CAD files would make appropriate designing and tinkering A LOT easier and less hacky.

Thank you very much!

me too

For anyone who wants to use 10mm rods on the X axis, this holder accepts Igus bushings and fits in the space of an LM8LUU required by the original X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336683

Igus 10mm Bushing Holder for LM8LUU

For the linear guides, are these custom cut? I am not able to cut these is why I ask.

You can usually specify exactly how long you want them from whoever you buy them from.
(I suggest eBay for the best deals on the rods)

Thanks that helps!

1 day ago - Modified 1 day ago
warham - in reply to nate25j

Amazon also has a vendor called pdtech that will cut to length.

Hey guys trivia question:
How much more height will I need if:
1.- I want all electronics to be below the Hypercube (much like the ultimaker 2 clone) and also
2.- For having this fully enclosed at the top (something like Folgertech FT-5 top)

For more height, just add your desired extra mm to the 4x Z-Extrusions.

There has no one done any enclosure yet.. I suppose you have to be a pioneer ;)

Fair enough, that is why we all gather in this sort of places isn't it? =)
I just need more spare time, too much work :P

i hope someone makes a side or top mount for the electronics

Hi Scott,

first thanks for the great Design! At the moment I'm waiting for all the Parts to arrive. It would be great to have a list of parts to print (with quantity).
Which material did you use?

All of my parts are printed in PETG.

Any tips for not getting the ends to curl? Im getting by but its noticeable

Bed adhesion and temperature are the key. I print on blue tape with a bed running at 75 degC and extruder temp 230-240 degC.

Somewhere in the comments, there is a list of the parts you have to print.

I got my last set of extrusions from them. Price was reasonable. Are they offering a complete kit of parts for the HyperCube Evolution? Can you please share the link?



It is that link he linked (Also same link as the one in your description). They list the almost full BOM and say contact them for price. When I asked it was 330$ + 150$ shipping to US

Wow, i paid 170 EUR including shipping within germany at http://alu-profil-technik.de/
And that was for all alu extrusions for a 500mm³ printer size. Also ordered the brackets from them...

well, not all profile are the same, the 3030 from that site are 0.9kg/m , i buy mine from UK and are 1.5kg/m so are quite expensive. Alu like copper is priced per kilo.

For comparison, Bosch Rexroth 30x30 looks to be around 0.85kg/m.

Yes you are basically right. But the chineese stuff is 1.08. So i thought a bit less weight shouldnt be so bad. And it is still rock solid. I can put my whole 95kg on the frame and it wont move a bit.

very good answer.

I didn't see the link, but you can see if you select any Hypercube evolution related item from them

They had just posted that BOM. From Scotts post he bought from different suppliers as his BOM list.
I just messaged them and I am currently getting a price - I'm swapping out to Arduino Due and the Ramps-FD. By the time I receive my kit I hopefully will have the knowledge to install the upgrade. I'll keep you posted on costs and if I go ahead.

Frame ordered for 400x400x450mm but with 2 options for a 350mm bed and a 400mm bed

curious how that turns out, i didnt realize someone would remix the parts to be able to use 10mm rods. I didnt want to run longer than 500mm with the 8mm rods so i stopped at 350x360 but went really tall.

4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
Mochanic - in reply to RoskaL

Wow, that's going to be a monster!
You might want to use 10mm rods in place of the 8mm due to the much longer distances you are spanning.

Are you using the 2020 for the bed frame?

HyperCube Sisters (LM10UU)

You can use Igus bushings with this older and the original X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336683

Igus 10mm Bushing Holder for LM8LUU

I would never use those. They are very sticky until they get moving.

Yeh 2020 for the bed. Just seen the price jump from 300 to 400 and it's quite alot lmao
My titan aero has arrived though to keep me amused for abit

Why the price jump?

Titan Aero! Nice....

4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
RoskaL - in reply to Mochanic

Anything over 500mm in linear rod's are like double the price, the heatbed is double, can see the silicon mat being pricey lol
Frame was only a few quid more so made sense at the time

@SCOTT_3D was you going to setup a Facebook group?

Facebook Group would be cool, then we can share pictures easily!

So do 400mm on Z and you only need 500mm rods. (unless you use couplers on the motors)
Guessing you can't buy them from eBay?

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago


I am considering metal Z rod support blocks.

It appears standard edge to rod center has options for 23mm or 20mm after comparing multiple drawings and vendors..
I am trying to eyeball your rod holders/Z motor mounts, I am reading what appears to be 22mm on the printed parts.
What should they actually be?


I am travelling for work at the moment so do not have the CAD model with me. But 22mm sounds familiar. The 23mm brackets should work as there is 2mm of adjustment in the Z nut holder.

I have bought the motors from BOM but they are 300mm not 300+ there is anything special i must do in order to mount them? should buy a smaller Z extrusion or something?

I would expect you could adjust for this depending on how your building it.. Another idea might be to use 3060 extrusion on the bottom sides of the frame where the motor mounts. Or if Scotts Z travel plus 30mm lead screws length general rule holds true then you might want to build your machine with a Z travel of 270mm rather than 300.

Fantastic job!

If i want to use a bltouch sensor for autolevel, i can use the designed parts for normal hypercube? Or aren't compatible?

I want to use cristal for my bed.


Since my Hypercube EVO is already printing for some days and I dont use any sensor at all, I can only say, that in my humble opinion you dont need any sensor. The DualZ axis construction is rock solid and does not bend in whatever direction at all.
I did level my bed by hand only once and that was exactly when the build was finished. Since then the EVO prints nearly 24/7 and I did not touch the level screws since then and prints are flawless.
Instead of the sensor I use an ordinary mechanical endstop with a adjustable screw. Plain and simple, but works without any problems.

Hi Biggsis,
May I ask how you fitted normal endstops on the X_ or Y_Carriage? Those opto slots are wat too narrow and small to fit normal ones?

I did NOT use normal endstops for X and Y, I used the optical ones, just as Scott suggested. Only for the Z-Axis I did not use the suggested inductive sensor, instead I used a mechanical endstop with an adjustable screw.

is anybody used it with linear rails? or mod it?

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
Mochanic - in reply to xsvmfhzwg4416zp

I have put my build on hold because after seeing how the Folger Tech FT-5 uses the linear rails, I too would like to implement them into my 3030 Hypercube Evolution build. There are guys claiming over 200mm/s on the FT-5 with flawless print quality. I would assume this is because there is ZERO play and no rough bearing harmonics when you use a linear rail rather than a round shaft with linear bearings.

Honestly I don't care how long it takes me, or how much it costs as I already have a new Prusa i3 MK2S that I can use for just about anything I need to print. So my new printer build will be much larger, much sturdier, have multiple attachments, and be fully enclosed once finally complete.

Check out this info on Linear Guides VS Rails:

So as promised I uploaded a new version of Scott's EXCEL sheet for the configuration of the Hypercube EVO.

This now includes a BOM European version. So it lists all the parts and their sources in Europe (Germany actually, but the shops have international pages too). Enjoy

Get it here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218/#files

Of course, credit goes to Scott for the original sheet, I just added the BOM.

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis

Great thanks :)

Is there someone that used the MGN12 lineaire slider for the XY ?

Nice job !

Did you have the 10mm version for the x-carriage part ? i would like to keep it light like tech2c so in 10mm alumiun version i see the 10-10mm Y part but not the X-carriage.

last question for printing orientation are all the part by default well oriented ? print as it ? it looks some part have tricky face without support.

Thanks for advice

You can use this holder with Igus bushings and the original X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336683

Igus 10mm Bushing Holder for LM8LUU

In my build I used standard 8mm steel rods for the X-carriage, exactly how Scott meant to build it. 10mm are used for the Y-carriage.
And all parts orientation is perfect. I printed all the parts just like this without any support and all turned out pretty well.

Thanks for this confirmation of print orientation i Will try like this so ... just wanna use 10mm rods on x to keep the weight as low as possible

if you compare the weight to a standard moving table printer with a giant arse 300 to 500mm 4-8lbs table this this is nothing, unless your like Elstak making a 600x600x600 machine hehe.

Guy's quick question, how many of the 100 T Nuts are used, they super expensive in South Africa almost a 100 dollers for 100 with shipping, and they cost $0.50 locally which still works out very expensive. Cheers

I needed about 50 of them for the pure DoubleZ version. Not included the ones for additional stuff like mounts for the RAMPS board, MosFet, Display etc.

Fantastic, thnx for this, so 70 should be enough

They are expensive here in the US too. Buy them from eBay, they are very cheap!

Ye I would but shipping is a equalizer lol and our customs like to rape people

May 18, 2017 - Modified May 19, 2017

Can someone tell me why there are so many bed bracket offsets 15/20/25/30/40 the configuration spreadsheet? Why would you need to change these if your bed stays the same in the selection above it?

I am pretty sure they are for different sized print beds.

That's what I would have thought too, but in the excel configuration file you tell it what print bed you want to use but it still gives you several choices of offsets.

in the cell under the selection of the bed bracket does it state, if your bed_bracket selection is OK or NOT_OK,

If it is OK, the extrusion length will be corrected accordingly, as bigger bed_brackets lead to smaller extrusion width's. Also the Heatbead and heatbed Mounting holes are taken into account.

Somewhere in the comments, SCOTT_3D adviced to take the biggest Bed-Bracket selection, which is OK for you

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
Mochanic - in reply to madejackson

For most of the sizes I get "OK" in the configurer. Don't really see anything changing when I choose different offsets.
I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
I'm ordering plenty of extra extrusion for the bed anyway. 2020 is super cheap!

Comments deleted.

Was wondering if you was planning on using a titan aero?

It's on my list. I just need to see what all changes I'll have to make to the printed file to mount it.

Awesome, would you mind sharing if you do? I'm about to order one for my prusa but would love to use it once I've built the evolution

Definitely will! (I have a new prusa mk2s, that I love the way it is... I figured I'd leave it exactly as is and just build a bigger printer with all the mods I can think of up front)

Awesome! I'm thinking of going with a 300x300x450 size maybe 400 for this , it should be plenty rigid enough to swing the aero around with no issues

I'm doing 300x300x500 (travel distance) but with additional height above so I can completely enclose it using magnets embedded into Lexan.
Also doing the DuetWifi 32 bit controller and a PanelDue touch screen.
Should be a beast by the time I'm done.

You have good taste sir, that's the way I'm going with duet
It's a 24v board isn't it?
What are your thoughts on carbon tits for the x axis to keep weight right down. Nearly an extra half kilo with steel rods in comparison

Yes, it can run 12v or 24v, and has selectable outputs for fans 5v\12v\24v.
I'm not really sold on the carbon rods yet, I haven't seen any info on how well they hold up over time. Plus I know the tolerances are not nearly as good as the stainless or chromed shafts. (metal shafts are usually ground to make them perfectly round and to exact size) Carbon tube will have variances which will probably be ok for most applications, but I want a really ridged machine because not only am I putting an extruder on it, but also a laser engraver, and a high speed router for light carving/milling. (mainly for plastics) Thus the main reason I want to be able to totally enclose it.

I'm looking at the Duet Wifi and it looks like the fan option is either 5V or VIN (Which will either be 12V or 24V). So if you're running off 24V you do not get the option of 12V.

Basing it off the https://duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_WiFi_wiring_diagrams

Also I don't think the optical endstop switches here work without replacing some resistors see the last part of https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches

I think you're right about the 12/24v thing. Its an easy fix either way. (cheap buck converter if you want to use 12v fans on a 24v supply)
As for the resistors, I have read that before too. It too is fairly straight forward to get optical end stops to work if that's what you choose to use. (but then again I have seen optical end stops that are compatible with both 3.3v and 5v.)

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago
ThatPlayer - in reply to Mochanic

Got a link? I wouldn't mind not having to figure out how to change resistors. I'm leaning towards getting a duet wifi for my own build

I mean a link to the endstops that you said are compatible with both 3.3v and 5v

4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
Mochanic - in reply to ThatPlayer

I'll have to look for it again, after I researched end switches, I decided against using optical end stops, so I didn't save the links to them.
Do a little research of your own before deciding on which type to use.

MANY people choose hall effect or mechanical microswitches over opto sensor for several reasons.

Read these 2 articles and tell me which one you think I chose:

You are going to use a Z probe right?

That was exactly my thought on the carbon, there will be flex surely and error need bushings rather than ball bearings. I wanted a solid machine that is bomb proof. No flexing. High quality bearings, ground hardened rods etc
Id love a laser that could cut thin acrylic (4/5 mm) but not sure if there are any peril enough to add to a printer, I haven't looked into that yet though

well also 0.5mm thick steel tube flex as 10x9 carbon tube.... i'm using 10x3 mm carbon tube high module it start flexing over 1000mm... and 16x5.5 allow me to use 2000mm tube with no flexion.

4 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
Mochanic - in reply to Elstak

We are not talking about tubes.
Only solid ground and chromed steel rods or ground and polished stainless rods. (Like 99% of all 3d printers come with)

polstruded bars can't be consider useful, just tech2c had think was a good idea use it, start to buy the real carbon fiber not the cheaper version. No way for the steel to be as the carbon fiber. Just buy a good product, made with good resin.

I have even considered using larger linear rails. Maybe 10mm over the 8mm for X, and 12mm for both Y and Z, but I'd have to make quite few changes to the printed files. That may have to wait until I build the first one to see what all would change.
I am not trying to build a supper fast light weight printer, My Prusa MK2S is plenty fast enough. I want an all in one machine, so rigidity is more important to me than speed.

Has anyone done a fully 2020 build with dual z-axes?

For 2020-Builds you should headover to the original Hypercube. This one is built in 3030

Thanks for your answer. I checked that one but there has been comments about the build plate sagging due to the weight of the z-axis. This one has reinforced 12mm rods which I believe is better. That is why I wanted to check if anyone has made the hypercube evo using fully 2020 extrusions.
Thanks again.

Comments deleted.
May 18, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to zafff

Its doubtful that anybody would since the whole point of the evolution was to make the original hypercube stiffer and simplify the build/prints.
By using 2020 you would have to use the prints from the original hypercube which means it wouldn't be an evolution, or heavily modify the 3030 prints which would make no sense at all.
Do yourself a favor and just build a 3030 evolution, it won't cost that much more.

This is the copied version of the excel sheet for ease of access and in the event excel is not installed.

biggsis has a version for europe with euro BOM maybe you could add.

Comments deleted.

Hi ! It's a really nice work ! I just can't find the firmware you modified . Can you post the link in comment ?

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
madejackson - in reply to Peter0021

He's using repetier with the configuration-file in the stl-files section

edit: Right... My Fault, there is no config-file, he just mentioned that he will upload it later...

There is no Repetier config file in the STL section, there is an EXCEL sheet for frame calculation, thats it.

Right... My Fault, there is no config-file, he just mentioned that he will upload it later...

As soon as I receive my missing parts (i didn't receive my rods yet) i'll test and share my own config, but this can take some more days.

Biggsis, probably you're willing to share your file of your marlin-setup?

If you don't know then why are you even here!

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017

Has anyone seen that the Aliexpress link for the 3030 and 2020 extrusions has the HyperCube Evolution BOM in the item description and seems to be saying to contact them for the price?

I messaged them and they're saying 330$ for everything there and 150$ for shipping to the US

you can get the stuff from china for cheap if its not very long. search the site and also ask the vendors because you can often get a better shipping method/ lower cost..

In usa i ordered from https://us.misumi-ec.com
You can also order from company that carry the tslots.com products.
I avoided the stuff amazon carries from 8020 inc because it apparently does not conform to the asian and euro specs in that T nuts often do not fit and need to be purchased for 8020 inc extrusion.

I have had a good experience before with Misumi and will be sure to price out a build there before jumping on anything.

Find a different seller, thats WAY to much!

The BOM includes all the parts for the printer outside the printed parts, not just the extrusions

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to ThatPlayer

Yeah but thats still $480!
Thats at least double what I plan on having in most of the parts. Excluding the cotroller and touch screen.
Plus I plan on changing my Z to at least 500mm.
That BOM is very generic and may work for some people, but the majority of the people will make changes since theres so many options and ways to build this machine.

Its expensive because of the length your looking at.

try addiing this vendor to your skype "greenlin119"
She found a cheaper way to ship but i had already bought from california.

I doubt you'll get a much better price anywhere... The 3030, dual-z and the 12mm/10mm steel rods are quiet expensive compared to the 2020 extrusions and 8mm steel rods from the original hypercube

What? The extrusion is £60 cut to size over here

For all extrusions incl. shipping? this is a very good price!

I paid roughly USD 150.- for the extrusions, ordered from china. Ordered from europe would be about the same, but as my country has a customs agreement with china, this was my prefered way.

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to madejackson

In my case a 600mm long (500mm travel) 12mm linear shaft is $13.52 SHIPPED!

Using the BOM as you were quoted (300x300x300):
X Axis = 8mm shaft 450mm long (doesn't come in that length so next length up is 500mm) $4.69ea SHIPPED
Y Axis = 10mm shaft 410mm long (doesn't come in that length so next length up is 500mm) $7.99ea SHIPPED
Z Azis = 12mm 400mm shaft long is $9.78ea SHIPPED

$64.48 for ALL 8 linear rods to your door... In my book that is not nearly as expensive as your $480 quote!
Put it in a spreadsheet and you will see what I am talking about.

I'm still working out the prices for the extrusions, but I can assure you its not even close to what Aliexpress is charging after shipping!

I think you didn't get my point.

Yes you're right... I also paid about $70.- for the rods, but I have ordered carbon fibre rods for the X-axis.

But the $480.- is for the hole BOM of the Hypercube Evo. So i'd say it's a fair price. But it's your choice of searching hours and ordering from 30 different sellers or just order from one seller, save hours of searching and get all the parts at once.

May 18, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to madejackson

No I get your point...
You want it easy and dont mind paying for it.
Perfectly fine for most people.

Personally I'd rather do my research, get exactly what I want and spend the extra money on the project itself, not shipping which is quite ridiculous from a lot of Aliexpress vendors.

And you say you paid about $70 for your linear rods, but that doesnt include part of that $150 you paid to ship them. The price I showed you is to your door.

Where are you getting the shafts?

Spend 60 seconds searching, and you will easily find them for that price.

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017
Slimjim1520 - in reply to Mochanic

Im actually in the process of ordering all the parts. I already ordered my extrusions and AFTER shipping just for the extrusions the total cost $109.45. The shipping cost was only 12$ to ship from tennessee to nebraska. Let me know if you want more details. This price included longer z axis extrusions by 180mm to accommodate a custom top i am designing.

As a side note, it is 2 day shipping and 2 day processing. I ordered it saturday at night (they are closed on sunday) and it arrives tomorrow. leaving it a total of 5 days from order to ship including the sunday that the manufacturer was closed. The shafts I did order through aliexpress since the manufacturer was double the cost. :/

That's not a bad price for the extrusions including shipping, and coming from the USA! Are they 80/20 extrusions?
What are your travel sizes? My Z axis is going to be somewhere around 500mm, but the frame will extend up a fair amount so that I can totally enclose it (with hinged doors on front and magnetic panels on the other 4 sides)
I have found some really good deals on extrusions from eBay, but they are various sizes that could be made to work. Even for my big frame I have priced it under $100 shipped, BUT that's for silver (clear coated aluminum) I want black anodized, which is MUCH harder to find at a reasonable price in the US.

May 18, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
Slimjim1520 - in reply to Mochanic

I think this is for you then. I purchased all black anodized. My 4 Z extrustions are a height of 620mm (remember i added extra :D). Each one for the z axis was $8.06. Remember the Z axis is the longest/most expensive.

What do you mean by travel size? This is the first time im doing any project like this so alot of jargon im just not used to.

Are you asking about the 80/20 extrusion brand? Then no. It is a manufacturer
If you asking if they are the 80/20 t-slot style of extrustions then Yes. They are.

I am reluctant to release the name of the manufacturer until 1 I get the parts (arrive tomorrow, 05/18/17) and 2 I get their permission (already sent a request). I will let you know if they are as good as I think. I will also post pictures.

Wow thats a good price for 30mm (3030) in black.
What was your total including shipping for just your extrusions?
I think my Z extrusions will be around 700mm. (The Z travel however will be 500mm)
Thats leaves a little space above the extruder for the guide tubes, so that I can put a Lexan top onto the frame with magnets.

By travel size I mean how far will each of your axis be able to move?

Cant wait to see pics and see what you say about it.

HOLY CRAP! These look fantastic!!!! The items were packaged better than amazon. No dents, scratchs, dull spots....just outstanding! Everything is EXACTLY the size I requested.

P.S. I forgot how small 30mm was. Thought I got the wrong extrusion and had to measure. Yay imperial system. :/

Yeah they at least package them well, thats a huge plus.
How do the cuts look, and are they all exactly the same length?

If you think 30mm is small, be glad you didn't go with 20mm!

They are all pretty much the same with +-0.1mm difference.

They look great, can you share your seller? thanks

Comments deleted.

$109.45 was the total for my extrusions including shipping. The build space will be the standard 300x300x300mm. I couldnt think of a reason to have anything bigger. Once I find a reason I will build another one and sell this one :D.

Still waiting on the UPS guy :/

Where did you buy the extrusions?

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017
madejackson - in reply to ThatPlayer

Edit: nevermind, didn't understood you...

Semms legit for that price. I paid for everything about USD 600.- incl. shipping but with Carbon fiber rods on X axis and a 32bit smart ramps an some more things like TMC2100, PEI-sheet, 2x hotend and 2x extruder...

How is the smart ramps? I'm looking at pricing it myself and the smart ramps looks pretty good. But I'm worried if it'll run on 24V properly and if the input and output run on 3.3V or if I would need a voltage divider for the probe.

Did you replaced x axis with carbon fiber rods or tubes? I don't know if I use tube it will get bend

May 18, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
madejackson - in reply to emirikol

I replaced the X-Axis with carbon-fibre tubes 8mm OD, 6mm ID, 1mm thickness: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-pcs-8MM-x-6MM-x-500mm-3k-Carbon-Fiber-Tube-with-100-full-carbon-for/32678670310.html

I didn't received them yet, so I can't say for sure, but based on the stiffness of carbon fibre compared to the stiffness of alu tubes, the carbon fiber is much stiffer even when a lot lighter. Tech2C used 10mm-Alu tubes with 1mm thickness which didn't bend. So i thought 8mm carbon fiber in 8mm shouldn't be any problem. But I'll find out soon for sure.

Also I ordered this bushings for the X-Axis: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printers-reprap-ultimake-12PCS-LM8UU-6PCS-608zz-bearing-kit-free-shipping/1295712335.html

edit: if you're unsure, you could just order this rods: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-8-mm-Diameter-x-500mm-Carbon-Fiber-Rods-Bar-For-RC-Airplane-Matte-Pole/32548400628.html?spm=2114.01010208.8.20.2dy6VS They are my backup, if mine won't work ;)

They will flex and wear very quick! Aluminum is way to soft to be used as a bearing race.

Use either chromed steel, or stainless.
Carbon fiber is not a great choice either, but its better than aluminum.

did you received them? do the have a good quality? they look much cheaper than the supplier that states in the thing details so i want to know if their profiles are good :D

Well, in general my parts were fine...

...they had some scratches on some extrusions because the protection-sheet peeled during shipment off and some 2020-T-slot-Nuts are not well machined and were not usable... but you have plenty of spares when you order 100pcs.

i can live with some scratches and some bad nuts for a great discount :D

I just got the same replay - I am vary tempted at ordering the parts and having a go at This printer...

Me too, but I'm not sure I need another printer...

Scott can you advise a rough cost in terms of parts to build the Hypercube Evolution and the standard one?

You know this is not possible right?

It highly depends on what size and what parts you are using and where you live.

For example: I live in switzerland and I am building a dual z-axis with 300mm3 print space and a 32bit controller and paid about 600 USD for the moment. But I didn't got all the parts yet and i'm not sure if everything fits and if I didn't forgot something.

May 18, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
Biggsis - in reply to madejackson

My already WORKING Hypercube EVO is the standard DualZ 300mm³ size. I ordered ALL parts here in Germany and I paid around 280 Euros for everything including the electronics, granted with a RAMPS 1.4 board and display. But still I dont know, why you paid 600$ for all the stuff.
I am in the process of actually customizing a "european" version of the BOM with the cheapest parts NOT from China.

That would be awesome

i'm building mine, 600x600x600and i need 250€ justfor the profile (motedis), can you lease share your BOM?

What the heck are you going to print!!!
You might want to think about larger linear rails to help with flex over those huse distances!

What kind of bed are you going to use, its obviously going to be custom, and it will require a small nuclear reactor to heat it! Lol...

Thanks for sharing your price :) You've had some awesome distributors at an awesome low price.

I think my $600 are due to the higher shipping costs to Switzerland (f.e. amazon does not even deliver to Switzerland and if a shop does deliver to Switzerland, shipping costs and customs are mostly tripled, due to Switzerland is a non-eu country).

Another point of my high costs are probably due to my optional upgrades like PEI sheet, TMC2100, 32bit controller and more)

If i would count out all the optional Upgrades, I would have paid about $ 480.-, If I would calculate shipping costs and customs to Switzerland from your sellers, i bet I would have paid about the same.

I think sharing your BOM would help some people here a lot!

thx Madejackson
valid point i am in Sydney Australia and just wanted rough idea. I am actually thinking of first getting a i3 clone.

I'd rethink the i3 clone. I went that route and was very disappointed. This is why the HyperCube Evolution was born.

I for sure am going to print this out this summer! i always wanted a glow in the dark printer!!!

How do I know how many to print of what part?

you can see it watching the videos, but if you want to build the dual Z axis you can see a one of my comments where i put an almost complete list (the only parts missing are the ones for the extruder and hot end)

Thanks! I will go diving into the comments!

May 16, 2017 - Modified May 16, 2017

The polyurethane belt link is broken, can someone let me know the specs? would this work: https://goo.gl/Sgsede ? i don't know the tooth length and how deep should it be. I need to know what is the size of the carriage too. thanks

6mm gt2

For anyone that might be interested in this:
I ordered the standard 300mm integrated lead screw steppers and will see how much travel I get out of them.
But if it shouldn't be enough there is this option to make them just about any length required:

I am relativity new to 3D Printing, bought a Prusa type of 3d Printer just to understand whether I like it or not. Now am planning to build a good CoreXY printer, with 2 extrudes. I really like your design and a big print area, main question - is - does you printer support 2 extrudes? I am new to 3D printing and will not be able to modify firmware.


buil your own 3d printer without a base of acknowledgement on how does it work.... is not a good idea. Gain a bit of experience reading reprap forum and just than strat with your printer. you can't expect that someone will help you so much just from a forum.

Well I am not a total newbie, I am an engineer, have done myself many upgrades to my Anet A6 etc. The thing I am afraid of is not constructing the printer, but modifying firmware for it to accept 2 extruders. And to be frank, I don't understand why would people do a printer with only one extrude, when a second extruder offers so many more opportunities.

Well... editing the configuration.h file from marlin is not that difficult. You just need one of the supported controller boards (I suggest something like ramps 1.4 or smart ramps and an arduino)

There is plenty of documentation online for the configuration-file and the dual extrusion settings for marlin. just head over to the github-rep of marlin.

hello ,all things do it, but when I tested ,the x NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8 – length needs , I feel the 300mm is short.
it is away to the hot head (the proximity switch)about 3cm . is it use more 300cm or lower then XY Plan ?
is it change then nema with more 300cm ?, thanks

Can I use a regular end stop?
Has anyone done so?

of course, the optical one is just a choice.... i will use proximity sensors and will be the same.

May 15, 2017 - Modified May 15, 2017

Alright peeps, I am very proud to announce, that my Hypercube Evolution is roughly finished AND PRINTING !!!
Just look under "Made" and watch it printing.
Thanks again Scott for your wonderful build,
Now on to the fine tuning and calibrating :)


Anybody using the new Titan Aero extruder? (http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=140)
I think I want to use one of these on my 300x300x500 Hypercube Evo.

Hi, Im going to build 300x300x500 with dual Z axes.Have you choosed motors with inegrated lead screws ?

I have built my EVO with standard stepper motors and couplers, mainly because of the price tag of the integrated ones. I lost very little build height, but aside from that, they work very nice.

I'm not going to use integrated lead screws. I have only found them up to 400mm and they cost WAY more that way. So I am going to just use a 5mm/8mm flex coupler. I am not worried about the little bit of Z movement that I will lose since I am going with 500mm of travel.
I am buying 600mm lead screws and will cut them once I figure out exactly where I need to cut them. This way is FAR cheaper now and in the future if I need to replace a motor.

May 16, 2017 - Modified May 16, 2017
lkvapil - in reply to Mochanic

Thanks for reply. Can I use direct extruder or only bowden ?
And I want to build 30x30 HB with dual axes and have I to buy 20x20 alu profiles ?

A direct drive extruder just means that the filament drive mechanism is directly mounted to the motor shaft. Both bowden and direct extruders can be direct drive. A bowden extruder is not directly attached to the hot end. Instead, a tube extends from the extruder body to the hot end.
You can use whatever you want, after all you are building it from scratch!

The 20x20 profiles are for the bed frame. (much lighter than the 30x30!) The rest of the Hypercube uses 30x30 extrusions.

What is the best place in the USA to buy 30mm (3030) extrusions? Aliexpress' shipping is RIDICULOUS!

think about makergeeks dot com that ask me 1000$ to ship 10 spools of raptor pla..... this is ridicolous. USA need a trade agreement with the rest of the world.... talk to trump

1000 to ship! WTF!

I just got all my 3030 and 2020 extrusions and corner brackets from Misumi.. total was about $110 after shipping and even though I only purchased them yesterday, they are supposed to show up tomorrow

Also in the USA and considering a Evolution build. You can always grab metric 30x30 ( 80/20 brand ) on amazon here http://amzn.to/2ranpoc Another place I use when I need extrusion precut is us.misumi-ec.com

Yeah I've been looking at the 80/20 3030 on ebay. It will probably work fine, but I need to see what the slot widths are as I know the center holes are larger compared to the european stuff.

I just wish Misumi would post prices rather than make you get a quote for everything.

Aluminium, like copper, change is price everyday....sometime cheaper but sometime it cost A LOT so no way to make a price if you sell and produce tons of profiles everey day.

Can I ask why use a 24v power supply and down step everything and modify a ramps board? why not just run it on a 12v psu or use a mks board that can have 24v power....Thanks just trying to learn your thinking behind it...

I used a different approach with my EVO build: For the RAMPS/Arduino board I use a 12V 10A small power supply and for the bed I am using a 24V 30A power supply controlled by a Mosfet from the RAMPS board. Runs very nice and without problems. I am using at the moment a 213x213mm heatbed since I am waiting for the 300x300mm silicon bed, The small heatbed heats up to 70° Celsius in about 2 minutes with 24V. For the hotend I am still using the 12V from the small power supply. Like this both the hotend and heatbed are ready to print roughly at the same time.

May 16, 2017 - Modified May 16, 2017
Mochanic - in reply to Biggsis

That sounds like a much better idea for people using RAMPS/Arduino's

I am considering the DuetWifi 32 bit controller with a PanelDue touch screen. (it can run on 12-24v)

Good idea. Do the fans then run with 24V or how is that done?

Using a 24v power supply for the heated bed and hot end makes them heat faster and is especially useful with the larger heated bed sizes such as 300mm x 300mm. The ramps board requires 12v power for the arduino mega 2560 unless you power it from a separate supply. When I build a larger printer I will use a 120v AC heated bed since there are MOSFET's available that will control it.

I am new and learning on the go, can anybody tell we if this 3d printed parts are a mix of PLA and ABS? and what setting do I need to set in my slicer program? thanks

May 13, 2017 - Modified May 14, 2017

The BOM states for the Z motors screw rod: "length needs to be ~30mm longer than required Z travel, depending on nut type" - the extra is only if used the anti-backlash type screw? As it is hard to find motor with screw rod of length bigger then 300, would 300 still work with the default 300x300x300 volume as per the current configuration spreadsheet.. ?

Also what is the preferred step of the screw - I can search motors with rods M82, M84 and M88, logically M82 would allow for better accuracy, but Z speed will be much slower, though I have 0 experience and am unsure if that is a setting in the firmware as well or it is hardcoded to a certain value ..

Also, I think the T slot L brackets (and angles if any needed) for 2020 (for the build platform) are missing from the BOM as well as a reminder for additional 4 LM12UU when doing dbl Z .

Thank you for your efforts and time - this work is most inspiring ..

Hi. If you want 300mm of travel then you will need a leadscrew which is longer as the nut takes up some of the usable length of the screw. You will probably have to by a 400mm long version. They are available.

No 2020 L brackets are needed for the build platform.

May 14, 2017 - Modified May 14, 2017
Pumpal - in reply to SCOTT_3D

Thank you for your answer .

Regarding the brackets, I am pretty sure in video #7 @3:50 you are mentioning the 2020 L brackets in relation to the additional bar in the middle and they can be actually seen @4:30 .. but maybe further in the series the plan changes, I admit I am still in process of reading/watching so it is likely that I am missing lot of things ..


Hi @SCOTT_3D, can you please remix the X-Carriage so we can also use the self lubricating bushings?, I've been trying to do some adaptors for use this bushing with the LM8 size, but the quality is not good enough :(.

Outer Diameter 12 mm
Item Height 20 mm


Nice! Is there any list of exactly how many parts of each to print. I found it is a little hard to see from the images.

May 13, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017
emirikol - in reply to H256

I have been asking for this list for a while but still no answer, i wan to build the dual z axis version :(, i need to know if extruder is included to print or if i should buy it. There are some items missing from the BOM too like M6 screws.

The extruder is NOT included in the file list. It is anyway better to use a METAL extruder. I just took a MK8 Extruder Kit from Ebay and mounted that with a custom mount. You find it in my updated remix here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218
I also created a custom bed mount for a standard MK3 bed 213 x 213 mm.

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis

I can see only 1 file related to extruder, should I print this only one file? What metal one do you say? Can you post me an example? Thank you so much

Yes, print this file, and mount it together with the stepper motor and the metal kit, like this one here : https://tinyurl.com/ltfuwck

i have never mounted a bowden extruder but the link you provided there are 3 options, 2 of them are long and 1 is short, what is the difference? which one should i buy? thanks

Thanks! I'll do it but I thought this was for direct extruder only. Does they exist for 3mm filament? I will send to print the file with the other files as soon I get the complete list :) thanks again

The only related file i can see there is mk8 holder, should i print only it? should i use it with this? as i told you i have no idea about how to use it, i have always used a direct printed one :(

well, no STL is called extruder so, no. Just print what you need of course 2 xy joiner, of course 2 pulley idler.... and so on... dual Z? good 4 rod idler and 2 bildplate support... is not hard to understand from the images

May 13, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017
emirikol - in reply to Elstak

i'm still stuck with X carriage, i don't know which parts should i print, there are too many options. I mean, i have used the XLSX provided so x axis will be 8mm and y axis will be 10mm isn't it? then should i print:

2-> Y_Carriage_Clamp_LM10UU (cause it's attached to Y axis and it is 10mm)
2-> Y_Carriage_xDia8_LM10UU (Cause X is 8mm and Y 10mm)

is this info correct?

yes, and was 8 Z rod idler.

I have done a bit of research and i think i have found the correct amount, I want to build the standard one with 8mm Shaft for X axis, 10mm for Y, 12mm for Z 30mm bed bracket, still need to know the other files to finish the carriage and hot end holder (i can't see them on any video), can you confirm those are all the parts i should print and let me know the missing ones please? Let's go:
Y Axis:
1->XY_IdlerMount Right
1->XY_IdlerMount Left
X Axis:
Z Axis:

All looks good except for the Bed brackets. you will need at least 4 of the size that suits your bed-

I am printing based off of this list and am wondering if all 4 of these need to be printed or just 2 of them? I am going to dual Z axis route:


Thanks Scott, this is a big mistake, I wanted to say 6 Bed_BRWCKET_30.

I thing I have still miss some files to finis the carriage assembly (I mean hot ent support and other stuff) can you let me know which are those files and how much of each piece do I need? Thanks again!

It's more difficult because there are a bunch of names and english is not your main language. So i'm trying to guess missing items from BOM, things i should order to print (my printer is dead ATM)... And never got a bowden so i don't know what extruder should i buy or print for this.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:711401 i suggest you to print one of the remix with the gear, take the one with the smallest gear, the big one have a bad gear profile.

B'Struder: Universal Bowden 1.75mm Extruder

As I said before, my experience with PRINTED extruder parts is not the best, since its just not that durable and not precise enough. And since the complete metal kits are less than 3 bucks, well..... Just my 2 cents

if you use pla or pet yep, not durable but if you use nylon fiberglass reinforced, everything works for years

You should get a bowden extruder my all means, It just makes more sense in a CoreXY printer. If you have to move the extra weight of the extruder motor with a direct approach, you loose the lightweight advantag (moves faster).
And I am currently working on an updated BOM, since I built the printer already and I know, what parts are needed and how many.
At the moment I am calibrating every axis of the printer and I have to develop a custom Z-endstop, since the inductive probe from the BOM turned out to not work through 3mm glass on the bed. And I prefer glass to print on.
So I either have to get an ugly, big and heavy 18mm inductive sensor and customize the X hotend mount, or (my preferred way) just use one optical switch on the side of the bed. With the rock solid bed constrution I think, I dont need any autolevel functionality, since leveling will be rarely needed anyway.

Busy Scott,

Someday if you get a chance it would be super great if your lead screw nut mount had a hole to match a T10mm lead screw :)
Hole diameter is 16mm.


I will be travelling for work for a few weeks so I quickly made the T10 Z nut bracket for you. It is wider than the standard bracket so the width of the build platform frame will need to be 10mm wider. This will effect the required extrusion lengths.

Thank you~!

May 12, 2017 - Modified May 12, 2017

I ordered all the parts and am printing the Hypercube Evolution at the Moment. (2x Z-Axis & 300x300mm-Build Plate)

Things I ordered differently:

I ordered 8mm Carbon-Tubes for X-Axis with Polymer-Bearings:

Nema17 Motors with standard flexible Coupler and anti Backlash Nut:

32bit-Controllerboard with TMC2100 Stepper Driver:

PEI Sheet: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Funssor-2-pcs-LulzBot-Mini-TAZ-PEI-Sheet-with-self-adhesive-tape-PEI-Polyetherimide-print/32805893609.html

Things that are missing from the BOM:

Total Spent about USD 600.- for now. Waiting on about 35 Packets at the moment. Can't wait to see what's working and what's not ;)

From my calculations for the Hypercube i get a 450mm z rod for a 300mm buildhight.
Here you are talking about using a z rod thats a few centimeter longer than the buildhight?
What exactly did you change on the z axis design to save those centimeters?

check the videos for the dual z

Sorry, i should have mentioned that i was comparing it to the original hypercube. Nevertheless i can´t get any answers from the dual z video as i was not asking how the dual z get mounted but why the z rod used on the original hypercube is so much longer than on the evo-design.
It is about 10cm more z-travel on the evo.

For the dual z version the length of the z rods has been optimised to be only 70mm or so longer than the travel. Everything else on the HyperCube Evolution has also been done to have the largest build volume in the smallest printer foot print.

But how is it on the single z? I can´t seem to find any major difference between the hyper and the evo on the z?

The configuration spreadsheet will output different length Z linear guides for the single or dual z versions.. Have you used the configurator?

Yes, but i´m not talking from the difference between dual and single z :)

I´m talking about the difference of the z rods between your single-axis-design and Tech2C´s single axis-design.

In his calculations, if i want to have a z-printsize of 305mm i need a 450mm rod.

On your BOM you say: "1 or 2 x NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8 – length needs to be ~30mm longer than required Z travel, depending on nut type," that would be a length of about 330mm.

So we have 450mm(Normal) vs. 330mm(evo).

As the design seems to be quite similar, i am wondering where those ~100mm on the hypercube are.
Hope i´ve explained it clear and understandable enough.

May 13, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017
Frutolo - in reply to Frutolo

Ah, and to point out, when i´m talking about the z rods i mean the lead screw, not the linear rails , my bad:)

why you continue to compare hypercube and hypercube evolution? what's your problem? different design means different dimensions... that's all...

No need of getting rude man. I was asking the designer himself, not you. As Scott says in the thing-description: "The HyperCube Evolution 3D Printer is a CoreXY printer inspired by the excellent HyperCube 3D ". And i don´t know if you already discovered it, but the name definitly says HYPERCUBE evolution. So it clearly leans on the design of the standard hypercube. And if you still can´t see any similarity then compare the pictures if both of them.

As i´m not a person that blindly buys the whole things form the BOM, and i want to optimize, get the best out of my new printer and want to think about what i´m doing here, i stumbled whilst comparing across that issue with the not that small difference between the z-leadscrews of the two printers.

I was never saying that those printers are the same, but i was wondering what he changed in his design (different motor mount height, etc.) do get 10cm more z travel.

So please, if you don´t have any constructive contribution to my question, please do me that favour, stop reading here and move on to the next comments.

If i was rude what about you? But ok... i'm not taking care (here) about the words, is an international place maybe someone don't know the English language so good like you. Is a good habit.


1)The printer is an CoreXY design, hypercube was not the first and the Evo. are not the last. You try to be a teacher but just show the poor level of attention while reading the hypercube description where Tech2 CLEARLY explain that he just REuse old parts so NO design while talking about rods/lead screw/motors and many other components. So now, that you really know something about the Tech2's design, try to read again your question. please. let me know the coherence between that and your last comment. please.

2)Spend less time buying sighted and more time reading the designer's description and start to tolerate with who come from not just another language but from a different root from yours. Learn another language, from another root, is a good school to be tolerant.

When i was young, with my 9600bound phone's coupler and did this kind of questions on the english BBS, the answers I received in English were RTFM, i think that don't need description and is what i mean with rude. :)

Sorry, with "what´s your problem" i kind of felt offended.

1)yeah he is reusing the parts, but he also had to design a lot to suit the parts that build ;) so i guess you could talk about a design (besides the corexy design already exists). And there are also loads of other people out there who don´t reuse things and buy everything, including me.

I am studying Tech2c´s design´a few months now into every detail, that´s why i came across with that thing. If you, or scott is telling me that Tech2c´s z leadscrew is just that long because he already had that one from his anet, but you could use a shorter one (i also could have overheard that in one of his videos) then i would accept that as an answer ;) I think asking for the reason is an acceptable question.

2) I actually spend to much time on reading descriptions. And if you accuse me of being intolerant you are wrong buddy. I am living in a country with 3 languages (none of them is english). I have never been been intolerant in real life, neither here to you.

But we are getting off topic here.

That is really nice, love the work and methods.

I have been looking for something to turn my 200x200 CTC i3 clone into, reusing all my parts including the GT2560 board and I think this'll do it. Just gotta wait two months for aluminum extrusions and other parts from China.

As a thought,could it still use a single z axis motor, but still use all four smooth rods? Not that I have a shortage of stuff, just as a thought.

Yes, the wait for parts from China can be frustrating. But prices are hard to beat.

I would not recommend using 4 linear rods for the z with one motor. Even through it moves it is not a good solution.

Errors in the excel file,

And...?? What are they?

May 13, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017
Chris6S - in reply to SCOTT_3D

Sorry, i was unclear. I can't seem to get the Err:509 messages to depart the form, no matter the settings I choose
-in the length results as well as directly underneath the build plate size select
-configurator v1.2

scott...you want to know too much things... XD

the double z is difficult .who can tell me the step by step,following the video, when the printing plant make fine,but put the pant into two z is difficult. I put up many times yet is wrong.what ever do thing ,not fit , left right line or two z nano .....double Z is difficult. STEP...

Keep everything a little loose when you first assemble the build platform into the frame. You may also want to keep one end of the build platform loose as well so that you can get the spacing between all of the rods and bearings spot on.

thanks very much ,scott_3d ,so fast tell me, at last I setup the 2020 into the main every one,from the left to right. it is fine.

hey Scott...
can u add a step file or cad files to your design so I can edit to acomodate 12mm rod on x axis...thank you

Can you please share the 3d files?

Comments deleted.

Hi, that general rule still applies. I have limited time at the moment with work commitments.

You are 100% correct that you will need to rotate by 90 degrees. Spot on!

May 12, 2017 - Modified May 12, 2017
orkanylmz - in reply to SCOTT_3D

Guys, i did not get +30mm version of screws, they sent me 300mm , is there any changes to extrusion lengths for 300mm lead screw or I just have shorter Z travel with same extrusion length from excel sheet ?

depends on dual or single z. check the videos and you can see what will be affected.

May 11, 2017 - Modified May 11, 2017
warham - in reply to SCOTT_3D

Thank you for the reply.
Is there any room to add upper lead screw bearing supports in the way you have set up your dual Z ?... or would I need to use the alternate mounting like your mock up? I am looking at going near 800mmz travel

I am trying to decide what length screws to order.
I am thinking about going with 10mm. it appears the F6900ZZ bearing should still fit your 22mm motor mount hole and allow a 10mm screw.

May 10, 2017 - Modified May 10, 2017

Is it possible to build this with only 2020 extrusions? If not, could you make a version for it? Because in Norway you can buy 2020 for a decent price, but if im trying to import 3030 extrusions it will be very expensive! It is also available, but its hard to get for a private person and may be very expensive.

you can build a 2020 version using tech2c hypercube design

Comments deleted.

Hi, great work, loved the printer !!. How about taking this printer up to next level by replacing X and Y axis to linear rails ? I think it will produce good smooth movement.

Comments deleted.

Hiya, would modifying the X Carriage to use 10MM rods cause any issues that you may know of?

I'm converting a kossel that uses 6 10MM rods and their respective bearings. (only making the 200mm print area version.)
Finished cutting my aluminium and printing my corner brackets for the frame, just waiting on some bolts to arrive.

You can use Igus bushings and this holder on the original X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336683

Igus 10mm Bushing Holder for LM8LUU

if you do this please share the files.

I've nearly finished the X Carriage 10mm bearing mod, ill add it to this project as a remix for you.

Where does one find the videos?

Hi, This is a link to Video #1 in the description and as well as in the thing view at the top of the page. Jump over to YouTube and then you will see all of the videos.

Thanks, I found them and have watched all of them. Very nice, I am planning on building one of these as soon as I can accumulate all of the purchased parts. I have a spare RAMPS v1.4 setup already. I will begin purchasing parts as soon as I complete my last upgrade to my Anet A8. I will begin printing parts for the Hypercube Evolution very soon.

Hi, how many times must each 3D part be printed?
Do you have a list ?


me too :)

i have the same question :D

May 9, 2017 - Modified May 9, 2017

I think make double z ,in bom ,more two 3030 X ,but ,I don't know ,where do mount these two X 3030 ? who can help me ,and anser me, thanks in china ,the video can not open....

the additional 3030 profiles will be mounted 130mm under the top profile along Y axis. so you will fix the top of the Z rods and Z lead screw

May 11, 2017 - Modified May 11, 2017
chenfm - in reply to Elstak

thanks a lot, at last I found a svn soft ,can look the video, I wish ,who can make a bom list, now a few things not in bom list. so, I bought many times, add,add....

I made a mistake in the video. The dimension should be 100mm. I corrected this in a later video.

Actually I had to put it to 103 mm, otherwise the Y carriage touched the upper Z Railbrackets (at least here with me), I am at the moment adjusting the bed, so I made the silicon bedholders 3 mm higher to compensate that.

Interesting.... are your stepper mounts and XY idler mounts hard up against the underside of the top extrusion?

May 12, 2017 - Modified May 12, 2017
Biggsis - in reply to SCOTT_3D

Dont get me wrong here: It worked when everything was fastened up, but while calibrating the DoubleZ mechanics it touched the Y-Carriage.
That might have to do with the L-Type inline brackets I bought here in Germany. They are different than the ones in your BOM, they have a long and a short side. And since the distance of the holes of the XY Idler and Motormounts did not fit my L-brackets, I had to drill new holes. But still all mounts and idlers are mounted tight to the top extrusion. Lets just call it "creative manufacturing tolerance".
I am at the moment repositioning the holes of the 4 XY mounts / idlers for the "european" L-Type brackets in the corresponding STLs and will publish this in my remix.
And just do be on the save side, I positioned the DoubleZ extrusions 103mm under the top, this does not affect my build size, so its working.



Adding on to your growing list of requests haha ;p
Any chance of plugging Elstak's ball screw mounting bracket into your autocad app. to see if everything aligns properly?


I will have a pair of these ball screws made for it, custom end machining is only $2 extra in china.

Hypercube Evolution Z-Axis Bed Support BallScrew 1204 Dual Rods
by Elstak
Ball screw Remix for hypercube evolution
by warham

Hey, i love your design, partlist is completed and order will be placed soon. Just got a question: is there a specific use of the 2 extra endstops? Because you should just need 2 for homing and could set the other 2 in software, or is it just because safety reasons to use limits on all 4 sides? :)

I like to use min and max as this gives some extra security. I have managed to run carriages into the end of travel when the printer is not homed etc.

Scott, I corrected the holes in the 2 "Z_Axis_Linear_RailBracket-_Double_Z" Left and Right. If you want these STL files, just let me know (how does this work here?). Too bad, that Thingiverse is very limited regarding communication. Can I get somehow in touch with you?.

And I started tweaking the "Configuration.h" for a MARLIN based configuration. When that is done, how can I give it to you to publish that?

And btw I am not that fast as you think. I am just working on several places: I finished the frame and the dual Z bed holder, but I am not completely done with it, since I am waiting for a custom made 6mm aluminium plate 300x300 where I will use a silicon heating-mat attached. Until then I will use a 214x214mm standard MK2 heatbed. And since my XY frame is working, I work as well on the firmware to optimize it.

Greetings from Germany


Hi Henri, I just uploaded my reworked version and thanks for the support. Much appreciated. I will be interested to see how you go with Marlin. It is my preference but I have had some issues with it lately.

Let me know when you have a config and we can work out a way to get it posted.

May 8, 2017 - Modified May 8, 2017
warham - in reply to Biggsis

ebay has these mic 6 12x12 plates. they are 4 LBS though. Hope the table can lift it.
Its about $20 us + 20 shipping
Just realized your in Germany. I guess FYI for anyone in the usa.

Hello, I plan to build a double motor z axis machine, is there any problem with the stl files? If there is a problem and you have solved it, can you provide me a link? Thank you in advance

May 8, 2017 - Modified May 8, 2017
Biggsis - in reply to emirikol

As Scott himself said in his YouTube Video #7, the placement of the upper holes in the Upper Railbrackets is not correct. I just used TinkerCad to correct that misplacement, since I am building the printer with DoubleZ at the moment and of course ran into that problem.

Here is the link of the corrected STL for the upper railbrackets http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218

Hypercube Evolution Additional Useful Things
by Biggsis

Thanks Henri. I just finished the print last night to realize this morning they were not correct. Work in progress...

Thanks Henri

Comments deleted.

Vídeo 7? I can only see one video? Can you upload the corrected stl for double Z?

Comments deleted.

Great design!

I am in the middle of building one and wanted to know if you would consider modifying the x and y carriage to accommodate bronze sintered bushings. I am using these on a P3Steel with much success. I can give you the dimensions that I have, which I am assuming would be standard for 10 mm and 8 mm.

Thanks again for all your work!!!

Hi Scott, I'm another one that is waiting for the 8mm rods version of your parts, since I had already all the 8mm rods with me.
The fact you have a 3030 frame made me choose your design to make a mix of yours.
Thanks a lot.

May 8, 2017 - Modified May 8, 2017

In order to add some extra space for a second extruder I only have to give a little more length to X extrusion an rods isn't it? Or should I change anything else? Did you include the extruder files?

Correct. Just widen the X. If you are doing the double Z version then you will also need to widen the bed 2020 extrusions as well.

Thanks, i want to build the double Z version with some space down to attach the electronic and a bit wider to add (sometime) a dual extruder, now i'm trying to find the list of the item i should print but i can't find it. I have already ordered all non extrusion and printed part item.

could you please upload the .STEP files? :)

May 7, 2017 - Modified May 7, 2017

Hi Scott,
For the heatbed frame, should i buy 2020 extrusion corner brackets?

Oh sorry, i didn't watch video #7 yet. My bad...

May 7, 2017 - Modified May 7, 2017

It's possible to add a bit of space at bottom in order to place the electronic? I can see some files have different versions, for example Y_carriage but in the excel its states Y axis is 10mm, what should i print? Can you add link where you bought belt pulleys? i can't find 3mm bore :(

May 8, 2017 - Modified May 8, 2017
warham - in reply to emirikol

aliexpress and amazon have them, banggood and gearbest may also.

Just increase the Z extrusion length the amount you need to house your electronics. Print the parts that suit your needs. 10mm Y axis linear guides are the only 100% supported at this point. I need to modify the stepper mounts and XY idler brackets for 8mm, but it's not done yet. I uploaded the links where I got the parts. Just poke around on Aliexpress and you're sure to find them.

So I must add it to 3030 the Z extrusion and add 2 extra X and Y extrusions isn't it? about the rods, the only supported right now are 8mm for X, 10mm for Y and 12mm for Z? is 25 or 30 bed bracket a good choice or should i bet for 45? Thanks in advance.

Correct. Just add the extra height to the Z extrusions. Until I design an 8mm Stepper mount and XY idler mount, a 10mm Y axis linear guide is the only choice. You want to use the largest bed bracket that is practical. You want to keep the Z linear rails as close togther as you can.

May 7, 2017 - Modified May 8, 2017
emirikol - in reply to SCOTT_3D

Thanks, is there no problem if i use arduino and ramps at 12v isn't it? why motors wire you have put at BOM have only 3 wires? Motors connectors you link at description are for 6 wires, it should be 4 wires only isn't it? the M3 Socket head screws pack you have put are used in all lengths? (shipping is too high for me but i have seen other vendor but does it doesn't bring longer ones). Are you going to do a dual extruder version? How many of each piece should I print? There are some of them I don't know how many do I need

May 7, 2017 - Modified May 7, 2017

Very nice videos, Scott, you should link them here, nevertheless I am already beyond the point of the videos, mostly figured out myself how to do it, learned a few additional things from you though :).
I ran into the same issues with the IGUS bearings. The problem with them is always the same: If 2 of them are even slightly misaligned, they dont work smoothly anymore, the same goes for squeezing them. If you only squeeze them just a little bit (for example, just pressing them into the printed X-carriage), they also become very hard to move... That is why IGUS themselves (they are a german company where I am from and I asked them) recommends only using them in a pillow block, like this they can move just a little bit to be perfectly aligned.... Maybe I will someday redesign the EVO X and Y carriage to use pillow blocks for the bearings.
For this build I went back to the standard LM even if they are quite noisy and for the Y-Axis I used LM10LUU with 55mm length instead of 2 LM10UU.
The rest of the build went quite smoothly, I am wiring the electronics for a test at the moment using a Ramps 1.4 board with 8825 stepper drivers and I have a request: Would you care to share your Marlin "Configuration.h" file with the community?
Thanks in advance and keep up the nice work, that is very much appreciated, I was always hesitating to build the original Hypercube, but with the Evolution you created a very nice piece of machinery, that I immediately started to build. I am not finished with the printer yet, but I already love, how sturdy and nice and clean it looks.

May 7, 2017 - Modified May 7, 2017
SCOTT_3D - in reply to Biggsis

Hi Biggsis, Man you move quick, I cannot wait to see how your printer turns out. I will probably park the Igus bearings for the moment as well and come back to them. First this is to get the printer back up and running.

I am running repetier not marlin. I normally run marlin but the latest version had some bugs still and would stall mid way through a print. When I next have the laptop that I use for the printer out I'll upload the config.

Thanks for the kind comments. This was the intent of the design. I wanted something that was not just a cobbled together collection of parts, but rather something that looks like and integrated design. I wonder how long to China knocks it off??

somewhere in these messages scott said he was using repetier firmware because the marlin was buggy.

And BTW the needed 6mm screws for mounting the Y-axes are missing from the BOM, I had a hard time finding them in a local store...

they are still missing isn't it? they are button head, socket head or what kind?

Button head or socket head will both work.

what length are the 6mm that you need?

10 or 12 mm long

love your improvements.

Quick question, im looking at building a bigger version (400mm^3 ish), do you think its worth the extra cost over 300mm?

This all depends on what you want to make. I went for the larger size as at some time I want to try to print an RC plane. For most work a smaller version would surfice.

Thanks for the input.
I only ask because I have a nice large unit (IKEA cupboard I got for £25 ex display :D lol), that I want to use as an enclosure. So I was considering building it to match the internal dimensions of the cupboard. which would give me the increase build volume.

Theres no reason why I couldn't use a larger frame than's needed for the bed, but that just seems redundant...

Comments deleted.

would you consider giving the CAD files ????

This would be helpful for assembly for sure.

Can you please update the BOM with the connectors (nema one)and the others components show in the new videos that actually are not in?

Connector link added. What else was missing??

igus bearing
electronics according to your new design (RADDS+ARD2)
i seen a different stepper on the radds
what about the display? i know that the full graphic need a special adaptor to work on the radds
i seen an alu plate over the mk pcb

May 7, 2017 - Modified May 7, 2017
SCOTT_3D - in reply to Elstak

Correct about the adapotor needed for the RADDS. I will not be using the full graphic display with it. The heat bed is the Reprap.me Al Mk3 heatbed. Nothing special there.

Alu plate is just the mk3 heatbed silver side up I believe

Brilliant videos
For the dual z axis I'm thinking run 2 leadscrews with the bearings top and bottom with no steppers. Pulleys attached to the bottom with a single stepper motor on the frame at the back running a belt to them

Comments deleted.

Hi Scott, The diameter of m3 screw is 2.8-2.9mm, buf 3mm for GT2. so there is little cap.

Well, I ordered after the 1.1 spreadsheet, that results in now having 2 10mm rods that are 30mm too long, so unfortunately f...ing useless. Who can cut theese, I dont have any tools to do that.

That was updated.......

May 5, 2017 - Modified May 5, 2017
Biggsis - in reply to RoskaL

Yeah, I ordered these parts on 29. April, that was not updated then. I was about to assemble the frame with the x and y rods today, but just cant do it, since the too long 10mm rods can not be used at all.
So I either have to get them cut and pay extra do let someone do that (not sure if I even can find one), or just have to order again the correct size. I just hate to waste money, let alone the frustration, that I cant continue building the frame...... F.... !!

That's why I'm waiting on all the bugs to be ironed out, waiting for the dual axis version to see where its at then.
You could grab a hacksaw for a few quid and print or buy a mitre block. Would do the job would just need to go slow and steady to keep it all aligned

I am actually BUILDING the the dual Z-axis version, already printed all the parts, have the 12mm rods, waiting for the 300x300 heatbed to arrive.
And yeah it was stupid me, I just did not think, that such a harsh mistake could happen to Scott, it all looked so perfect, well my bad....

$10 die grinder from harbor freight and someone that has an air compressor.

Hi Bggsis, sorry to hear about this. Those rods are not a complete waste if you know somone with an angle grinder. The rods are not through hardened, or maybe not even hardened at all so not overly difficult to cut. At least the rods a not to short, then they would definately be destined for the bin.

I had to trim all of my rods as I just purchased "standard" lengths.

You live and learn. I've done it quite a few times lol I'm in no rush though. Wanted to see if anyone does 10mm rods for dual z, 12mm seems overkill but if it works I'll go with it
Few other bits I'm waiting to see if anyone does like the titan aero

Hi RoskaL, for the dual Z version 12mm rods may be an overkill. I just needed to reuse what I had. Once I get it together I will see how it performs and then maybe develop a 10mm set of bearing holders and shaft brackets to suit.

May 5, 2017 - Modified May 5, 2017
Sakcyb - in reply to SCOTT_3D

Also very keen on the dual Z 10mm rods version for added stability. This looks like a really great upgrade from my 200x200x300mm P3Steel v4 that does work very well, but I want to go for the larger 300x300x300mm cube and also a box design that would enclose easier than the Prusa design. I do all my prints current with ABS filament so temperature control is very important. Also not a fan of the Bowden extruder hotend so I also want to go with the Titan Aero Hotend.

I'm waiting patiently to see how the dual version is. Can't wait to start ordering bits and get building. I'm sure the Chinese will have a titan aero clone out by then aswell I'd like to give a go. Not a fan of Bowden lol

don'tbuy the chinese version of titan aero.... :D

This may not be on your plate of things to do but since I am building such a tall machine and using heavy 8 lbs mic 6 plate for the bed I will be trying to use 10mm lead screws if possible. If you get bored of things to do I want to toss out a suggestion for T10 lead screw heat bed carriage brackets :)

Great job men, i want to build this printen but then with a Dual Flexion extruder and with e3d.
https://flexionextruder.com/shop/extruder-for-e3d-hotend/ is that possible on this printer?

You can always knock up your own extruder mount for the Flexion ($$$$) just consider the loss / extra x travel you will need.

Comments deleted.

Hello, thanks for your work. I have seen many links are broken, did you use all frame from aliexpress I wat to buy them at motedis, are they better? Do you have a dual extruder version? Do you have a how to guide? Thanks again!!!

I ordered several parts at Motedis, waiting for them now. I will let you know, how that went.

that would be great!!! thank you in advance

Well, the parts from Motedis arrived today, and I am very satisfied with them. I had ordered the 8mm and 12mm rods and a bunch of screws and nuts. Order was on 29.04., delivery today, safe and well wrapped, rods are cut exactly as they should, so all fine with me.

Thanks. This does seem to be a problem with Aliexpress. Things keep moving and changing. Just keep searching and you will find some good deals.

I cannot comment on Motedis as I have to date got my extrusions from China. For those in the EU this may be a better choice.

Do dual extruder version. This will effect the width of the printer depending on the extruder setup.

Keep posted for some more Youtube videos. I have been busy printing more parts for a rebuild of the printer.


What are bed bracket for? it's better a bigger or smaller one?

I'll wait for this videos in order to buy my parts :D

HI the bed brackets are what is used to mount the heat bed to the z platform. I would use the largest practical as this will bring the Z rods closer together.

I have all 8mm rods and 2020 for the frame. Any chance you would release the STEP files to change the design to use the parts I have? Thanks!

May 3, 2017 - Modified May 3, 2017
jwalker3d - in reply to mindstormmaster1

It's on onshape. I needed to change the diameters for the X/Y rods

Google Sheets made a bit of a mess of importing the spreadsheet for me. In case anyone else has the same problem, changing the range in the VLOOKUPs in Calculation C24 to C27 to Configuration!$M$6:$Q$11 fixes it.

Did not manage to fix it, but entering the values of the heatbed by hand in the Configuration tab did the trick for me.

or just convert the file in 97-2003 xls format :)

hi SCOTT, what is the lenght of 3030 aluminium extrusion used in this build...by the way you made a nice job...thnx

Hi, you can customise this to suit your needs. In the Thing Files there is a spreadsheet which works out the lengths for you.

thnx for answer SCOTT_3D...one more thing...I have 12mm rods and bearings...I want to use them for xy instead 10mm linear rods
..can u upload the step files so i can resize them...thank you

I have a few engineering questions to pick your brain with.

  1. how much weight do you think the dual screw table can reasonbly lift?
    a 300x300 Mic 6 plat + heater is around 4 LBS.
    This leads into the 2nd question.

  2. How large of a build table do you think this design can reasonably accommodate without sacrificing print quality?
    I ask because I have located a 400x400 mic 6mm Alum. plate

  3. How do you feel about 0.9 degree steppers ( torque approx. 59 oz, 1.7a, 4200n) in this application, of course with a 32 bit controller?
May 2, 2017 - Modified May 2, 2017
Elstak - in reply to warham

1)enough, i make some print on my single lead screw printer up to 3 pla spool and nothing happen

2)dual screw is enough for 600x600x600 (i have one) and maybe more

3)useless have high precision motor if the leadscrew is chinese and with 10% of accurancy...., so instead of buy a "better" motor, buy a ballscrew C5 ground (1604 will be enough)

ball screw too expensive for this project.

May 2, 2017 - Modified May 2, 2017
Elstak - in reply to warham

well also spend money for a useless 400steps motor while spending 3 euros for 2 leadscrew... expensive too

your Z is 400mm?

no no, same price for 0.9 that's why. Agree with you. Z screw will be 800mm. travel 7xx

well... on 800mm of a cheaper (i mean less than 100€/mt) leadscrew with accuracy of 10% means 8mm of error along the entire travel.... and also 8mm diameter.... will bend a lot in the middle also with a wonderful top support for it. instead of add steps on the motor consider to buy 2 ballscrew.... c5 rolled is 120$ each one (800mm) with nut... i know, are a bit expensive but 800mm is not something that you can do (in a good way) with a leadscrew


May 2, 2017 - Modified May 2, 2017
warham - in reply to Elstak

I worried about the flex. For the cheap cost I might have to suffer with the % error. But what about using a 10 or 12mm lead screw instead of the 8? Those are also very low cost.

the long travel force you to use product with 3-5 % as error, if you found a supplier for a lead screw 12mm (forgot the 1mm lead or the ball screw will not appear so exansive :D )8mm pitch with a vary vary small error it can work... but in my experience print something over 400mm on z with a lead screw simply don't give you a good printed model. this is way around all high printer are Delta :)

This is a good question...

What is the lead of the screws. The 4 start 2mm pitch (8mm) lead screws have a reasonable mechanical advantage. A single start screw would be even better.

The Z bearing arrangement would definately be more than adequate.

I'm guessing for the X/Y motion. Steppers sound ok.. 0.9 degree with 1/32 micro stepping will max out at about 200mm/s with an 80khz DDS step generator. But 1/16 would be more than adequate I would suspect.

Have you considered using a E3D Titan Aero on your version of the Hypercube? I would be keen to know the added dimensions need to maintain the full 300x300 build area with one - will probably have to figure it out with a mockup or something.

The build platform I will be using is this one https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/aluminum-build-plate-330x330mm-for-3d-printer-short-kit

This would definately need more Y travel to accomodate the Aero. Just need to understand what the difference in Y offset is and then add that to the Y dimensions.

Hi Scott,
Amazing work on an already amazing platform.
Just wondering if you had thought about a single z motor with a closed loop belt so there is no differentiation between the 2 z motors on the twin z carriage model?

Not sure if we need it yet. Once the dual Z version lives then I will be able to give some comment. If the platform is well constrained then the two Z motors should not get out of step....... maybe.... let's see

Are you expecting the bits for the dual version soon?

The single motor idea would be awesome and gets rid of the need for autolevelling

a always use dual or quad motor, sometimes also using 2 or 4 stepper and the motor will never be miss aligned more than 50 micron, of course with a very good Z ballscrews

Wanted to build the standard hypercube but then i found your design, really like it!
What were the costs you had building the whole printer?

Scott, I am in the process of printing the parts for the Evolution and I ran into a few understanding problem. I would like to build the double Z-axis version for which I ordered all the frame parts already and since they dont come from China, they will be here next week.
I understand that I have to print TWO of each "Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket", one for up and one for down of each side. This I understand would be sufficiant for the ONE Z-Axis version.
But what are the specific "Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket__Double_Z" for and how many do I have to print and where are they fastened? And if I print these, do I still have to print the ones for single Axis?
And one more thing: Do you have a plan or drawing regarding the exact placement of the CoreXY belts? I have a decent understanding of the CoreXY principle, but I cant figure out the exact plan by just looking at the introduction video.
Thanks in advance and I am looking forward to hear from you.

The Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket__Double_Z are used to mount the top of the Z linear rails. You will need to of each.

I will do a few more videos to show the build, but as you say, some drawings of the assembly would be helpful. I will add this to the things to complete. I will be travelling for work in a couple of weeks so the first plan is to to the videos.

Hello Scott,

I agree, some blueprints of your remix would be very helpful.
Even better, you could provide a step by step assembly guide using your CAD files, and making some printscreen as you add the components.

What type of stores are you guys getting your extrusions from?

motedis for europe

mitsui or tslots for me in the usa but kind of expensive.

Hi Scott!
Is there an assembly manual?

I'll get some more videos done first and then at least get some assembly drawings posted.

Apr 30, 2017 - Modified Apr 30, 2017

Hi Scott !

First thanks for sharing all your work with us !

Then, quick question, what would be the best material to print all the part with?
( does PLA would work properly ? )

Thanks again,

Hi, I used PETG and it works great. There is one report that the X carriage fails / breaks if printed in PLA.

HI !

Supplier in france sell 2 type of 3030 extrusion:
Type I and Type B.
apparently type I has slots of 6mm while type B has 8mm slots.
What would be the right type ?

Type I stands for item, Type B for Bosch.

8mmslot mean thin wall of the extrusion so type I is stronger, i think you r buying from motedis :D

indeed !

You want the 8mm slot version. Who is the supplier? I am in Switzerland and ordering from China takes a couple of weeks.


Hey, can you share your firmware also? Thanks. Great build btw, sexy as hell!

Will do, printer is currently working so will do it during the week is that is ok.

Can you make an X & Y carriage for 10mm rods and lm10uu? If to difficult can say me the cost for the remix? I want to use in a extra size actual hypercube and a new HyperCube Evolution for my dad

You can use Igus bushings and this holder on the original X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2336683

Igus 10mm Bushing Holder for LM8LUU

This will be a needed mod. Will need a bit of tweeking the X carriage but should be doable.

I've been using the IGUS RJZM-01-08 (8mm) linear bearings and love them. Super quiet and smooth. They are 16mm instead of 15mm in diameter. Would you be able to add parts to use these? Looks like they make 10mm (RJUM-01-10) and 12mm (RJUM-01-12) (I haven't tried the larger sizes).

Here is a link to the site that references all the different ones available.

Hi, I ordered some 8mm and 10mm versions last week. I did not realise they were a different size to the LM8UU. Looks like another version of the X carriage will be needed.

Hi Scott,

I am using Igus hard anodised 10mm rails and RJUM-01 for the Y rails and have a set for the X carriage. I've found the 10mm/10mm XY joiners and started printing them, but can't see an X carriage for this size. Do you have one, or could you release the STP file for this so I can remix?

Many thanks for the design. I was building a Hypercube but stumbled into this. I am also building something similar with linear rails but that has been paused to make a work-horse Hypercube Evolution esq hybrid with a 300x300 plate.

The ones with the aluminum sleeves are larger. They do make a direct drop that is 15mm (RJ4JP-01-08) but it doesn't pressure fit the bushing correctly. Zip tie put pressure from 2 sides (not evenly). I've tried printing a sleeve but just can't get the precision required to correctly put pressure on the bearing. So, you get areas that catch.

I think you will like the RJZM-01-08 and RJUM-01-10 a lot. Night and day different in how quiet it makes the machine.

This mod to the Prusa i3 MK2 fits the RJZM-01-08 excellent. Even has the grooves to hold them in place. It might help you modify yours.

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep my eye for updates.

Prusa i3 MK2: V2 holder clips for Y-axis' igus drylin RJZM-01-08 bushings

For a 300x300x400 frame it's 35usd for the 3030 and 2020 extrusions and 70usd for shipping. I hate shipping

try a local store...where are you from?

Uk, this type of stuff isn't used as much as other places I guess and if it is its usually slightly different sizes

i buy from uk and i'm italian and i never pay so much for the shipping.... and are also better than the chinese one... for 19£ of shipping... maybe free for uk idk.
Stop buying from US and china...

I buy from wherever is cheapest and still decent quality. Where are you getting 3030 cheaper from here?

shipping to usa is $100. buying local its going to cost me $200 to make the frame

I can get all the profile cut in the UK for £60 including shipping if I buy local. Thanks to some help

Jealous, i have to buy from mitsui or tslots at somethign like .26 an inch.

how much do the parts cost (along with getting the parts printed at some printing service)?

Apr 29, 2017 - Modified Apr 29, 2017

Hello, x-carriage, i dont see bolts to nuts either for the brackets that holds the gt2 or for the hot end
Is that reliable? just just screw them to the plastic? is that it?
Either way is the brackets for the gt2 are excellent!

Hi, The tensioning system uses M3 brass inserts for all of the clamp screws and tensioning system. Similarly the extruder is mounted with a single screw from the rear, and a M3 insert in the extruder mount itself. This is to allow for quick removal and to date has worked without issue. There is also a "standard" hole pattern on the face of the X carriage. This is for the locating pins but these can also be tapped and other extruder mounts fitted to this.

sorry my ignorance but i saw those brass inserts... and do you get them in? while the part is printing? i dont get it...

You heat them with a soldering iron as you push them into the 3d printed part.

Apr 30, 2017 - Modified Apr 30, 2017
paulorcrs - in reply to SCOTT_3D

wow thats great
its is wise use PLA with that? (i only print with PLA because of fumes toxicity and its easy)
Sorry to be a pain i a.. but i saw the brass nuts and i wonder how the plastic will expand in the way to fill the middle gap of the brass nut? because both ends have 5mm and the middle is less so if i push it how does the plastic expands to the middle?

Comments deleted.

very cool remix of the hypercube design, I was planning on building the hypercube next month but think ill go this route since you are already doing 2 of the things i was planning on modding - using 2 z axis, and using teeth bearings. The change to 3030 was one i didnt think about but makes sense. Looking forward to your progress with the dual Z axis. I have never owned a 3d printer, so starting from scratch would you still go this route for the boards or would you look at maybe a smoothie board instead? also likely going to go with a glass bed only because of how many issues i hear about concerning aluminum beds not being level.

Bed wise if you have the money get a 5 or 6mm cast aluminium plate and get a silicon heater underneath. They're abit more expensive but perfectly flat and don't warp or anything
Using only glass can be done but it won't hold the heat aswell

Apr 30, 2017 - Modified Apr 30, 2017
warham - in reply to RoskaL

that would be so heavy in this design.

What does weight matter? It's not going to make any difference to the steppers. Makes it more stable and less prone to vibration

If the single z motor design can handle all the weight that's great.
On the dual version when you turn this off gravity is going to screw up the leveling of your table.

That's a good point. Would be nice to see if there's a way to use a single motor for 2 leadscrews in sync

Apr 30, 2017 - Modified Apr 30, 2017
warham - in reply to RoskaL


To use 2 z motors in this case you almost need 2 z sensors that home independently like the ft-5 printer.
I dont know of a board though that will do dual Z homing without losing auto leveling.
The belt connected option is probably the best unless a board turns up that will do everything. .
An example of this all this.

Wouldn't it be possible to have the 2 leadscrews suspended on bearings with pulleys at the bottom and have a single motor in between?

That is probably the design I am going with and ordering parts for. Otherwise the motors need to be at the top but thats a whole other mess.

I'd have thought though using the heavier 6mm cast bed you could run the single side z axis and it would cut down the vibrations the creator said he had?

I'm wanting to go 300x300x400 though so not sure if u should just go with the double side z axis just because of the extra height

im building a really tall one so single is not really an option although i would prefer that orientation. if you notice on the dual he changed the mounting orientation. 90 degrees

It's the I let way to keep the print easily accessible I guess, how tall are you going?

800mm lead screws

Yeh that's pretty big lol. I'm wondering if a single one would do for 400mm. If not 12mm smooth rods seems overkill for it

you probably could with this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2232625

Z-carriage 12mm LM12UU Version 2

What does that do, it's not clear on my phone from the pic

beefy z axis bearing holder/carriage mount. i would think it could be extended a bit longer and be pretty solid.

Would be nice if it had some holes to attach a metal "L" bracket on just to help keep things straight and rigid aswell

a 12" x 12" 1/4" mic 6 al. plate is 3.636 pounds says the interwebs.

yep is possibile with a belt and 2 H pulley and 3 nema pulley but i prefer to use 2 motors

I learnt the hard way and got a cheap clone from China as my first printer. A learning curve but very frustrating due to the poor print quality out of the box. I purchased many replacement parts and it got a little better.

If you know someone who can print the parts of the HyperCube Evolution then you will miss out on all that fun and frustration and have a great printer from day one.

I'm a typical engineer and love to solve problems. My work with linuxCNC is two fold. I like to tinker and have been woking with LinuxCNC for over a decade and wrote the Huanyang VSD driver which is now part of the trunk. So how to get the cheapest LinuxCNC steup for a 3D printer using "cheap" of the shell electrical components without the need to build custom hardware. Hence the Pi and Due combo.

I could go for a Smoothieboard but where is the fun in that ;-) But if I were not a tinkerer and just wanted to get going straight away the Smoothieboard would be a great start. There are some really good reviews out there and examples of great parts being made.

I have a glass plate for the Evolution as well. On the Prusa i3 it was always frustrating getting a first layer down but at least the glass is flat, unlike the Al plate.

If your using a glass plate but autolevelling of the aluminium, you'd surely get issues on the print, depends if you're only levelling off the corners or loads of other points of the plate

No. I use a glass plate on the Pursa i3 which has an IR height sensor (not very repeatable). I have not used my larger glass plate on the HyperCube Evolution yet.

What kind of IR sensor? I heard the differential ones are supposed to be quite good.

Yep, the differential one. Ambient light, bed coating all have a slight and noticible effect. The repeatability of the inductive probe is much better but only on the Al heatbed of course.

May 1, 2017 - Modified May 1, 2017
Elstak - in reply to SCOTT_3D

way not a simple proximity sensor that are able to feel all dielettric materials?

How to Modify the Ramps and Arduino for 24v?

The is some info on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADpFjGaIxNo. I converted the polyfuses to use automotive blade fuses and provided a 12V supply to the RAMPS.

Apr 29, 2017 - Modified Apr 29, 2017
dhanny - in reply to SCOTT_3D

Hi Scott_3d, Only need make the bridge? no need more setting? are you sure?

The diode needs to be removed that supplies power to the Mega from the RAMPS. I would recommend both polyfuses to automotive blade fuses.

I was about to build the Original Hypercube from Tech2C, but then I saw yours here, and I ordered the framework parts right away. Excellent design Scott, cant wait to start building. Keep up the nice work :) Greetings from Germany

Thanks Biggsis. Enjoy.

Apr 28, 2017 - Modified Apr 28, 2017

Hi, Scott

Awesome work! I'd like to build your Hypercube Evolution with 300mm3 build-platform and 8mm-carbon-rods for X-axis. Today I ordered all the parts from Aliexpress.

Things that crossed my mind:

  • You do not have any Hotend-parts in the BOM... I had to order based on the bom from the original Hypercube. Not a huge issue, but mentionable.
  • Are your hotend-mountpoints on the X-carriage the same as on the Original Hypercube? Reason for this: I probably like to setup a dual-Extruder system with a Chimera-Hotend. For the Original Hypercube, there is already a printable mount for the Chimera.

Hi, Sorry. I had the hotend so it was not in list of orders. I use an original E3D v6 hotend running on 24V.

inside the configurator there is the link for the 300x300 bildplate, enjoy

Hi Scott,

thats a great hypercube mod! congrats on making my fingers itchy after a loong time :)

where I live, the 3030 alu profiles are the most readily availble, so thats a huge bonus.

I'm pretty fine with all the parameters and components used except one - the heatbed. I understand that you use a bonded PCB-alu panel. In my experience, every single unit I received (200x200mm as well as some 270mm round ones for delta printers) were warped as hell, which sucks even if you plan on using some kind of autoleveling. So my question is how is your particular bed in this regard - i.e. how "flat" is it - great that you were using a gauge to check. Another things which I could not find are the voltage and wattage parameters of this particular bed - could you please let me know if its a 12V or 24V and what resistance/wattage the bed is?


Hi, the feedback to the vendor is a bit varied as far as packing and shipping and how the bed arrives. Mine came through fine but I did order it as part of a larger order so the packaging was probably a bit more than normal.

This said the larger bed does still sag and it is noticable especially when tramming it. Therefore I will be going to a 7 point support system or even 9 points so that I can adjust it as flat as possible. I want the whole area of the bed to be useable. Currently I use a corner or half at a time and adjust it the best I can.

Bed leveling will take out a general out of level but needing to go to full bed compensation to accomodate a bent bed is not a great ongoing solution.

Wouldn't it be better to use a 5/6mm cast aluminium bed with silicon heater? It would be dead flat and wouldn't warp either

This would be the ultimate solution. $$$ is the issue.

Apr 28, 2017 - Modified Apr 28, 2017

You do not have a picture of the Z axis stuff, does the dual guide setup take 8 linear bearing?

Also they no longer carry the steppers you linked but i guess its a good reference.

What hot end are you running?

Hi warham. The dual z system uses the same components as the single z. 12mm rods and bearings.

I just checked on Aliexpress and the vendor still has the integrated lead screw steppers and currently 16% off.

Original E3D v6 hotend - 24V

Hi, may i change the extrusion profile from 3030 to 4040?

The printed parts are designed to work with 3030 extrusion. The hole spacing for the parts that mount on two side of the extrusion will not work for 4040.

Hi, thanks for your reply. One more thing, if we use 24 volt power supply, should i buy e3d hotend with 24 volt too, or i can buy and use 12 volt?

Best to use 24V so that you do not have to worry about another 10A 12V power supply.

No, i mean, i will use 24 volt power supply, but which hotend i must use, e3d hotend with 12 volt, or e3d hotend with 24 volt. Very sorry with my bad English...

24volt power supply = 24 volt fan = 24v hotend = 24v heatbed

Working with a 12v components on 24v power unit is not a good idea

Apr 30, 2017 - Modified Apr 30, 2017
dwisetiyadi - in reply to Elstak

Ah.. ok got it, so we use DC to DC regulator just for Ramps and Arduino right? Sorry for my dumb ass question, lol. Thanks a lot...

Exactly! No such thing as a dumb question. Power the 12V fans using an expansion module which is also powered via the 24v ro 12v converter.

Thanks again... :)

Hey my friend, my only concern is that plastic parts that enclose the bearing are not completely closed or there is no way of tightening them to prevent them to become loose? I don't know if I explain myself, sorry for my english.

which ones? x,y,z?

Hi, your English is great. The bearings are a press / tight fit into the plastic parts. There is enough spring in the parts to keep good clamping pressure on the bearings.

Hi Scott, no more update? can i start the building?

I think so. The only things on the design to do list are for variations that people have requested.

  1. 8mm rods for the Y axis - needs an 8mm version of the left and right stepper mounts and idler brackets
  2. lead screw bearing support for those wanting to use a normal stepper motor, coupler and leadscrew / threaded rod

And if more people have problems with the X carriage when printed in PLA, maybe a small mod to increase the wall thickness of the bearing pocket.

Apr 27, 2017 - Modified Apr 27, 2017

I have a design change suggestion.
On the dual Z machine, The 2020 extrusion maybe should be the outer bar in the rectangle for the bed carriage.
lets try some ascii art... Your current design is the opposite of this.. z|=|z

I think it should use the design above so that the bed brackets do not need multiple length options. The carriage could be adjusted just by moving the 2020 in/out. Unless I am missing something this seems logical.

I have been setting Bed_bracket to 15 in planning but in reality Bed_bracket_45 would be better yes?
The closer together the Z shafts are, the less chance for binding and bed tilt, yes?

Hi, you have been disecting the design and understanding my strange brain... The Z bearing holder provided two functions. The first is to support the bearing and the second is to connect the 2020 bed components. If we flip the bearing holders outwards as you suggest then we require extra parts to construct the bed.

You are correct in saying, as the bed gets bigger then we should be using larger bed brackets so keep the Z linear rails as close together as practical. You are spot on!!!

Apr 27, 2017 - Modified Apr 28, 2017
warham - in reply to SCOTT_3D

I understand what your saying.
Therefore, I propose this bed frame design in the link below for the 2020 frame.
Stacking the 2020 instead of a straight aligned box frame. - Yes this will sacrifice 20mm in the Z axis.
Then both the x/y axis have some adjustment for assembly alignment AND also not requiring different sized bed bracket length options.
Should be a one size fits all solution.


Comments deleted.

Hello there,

Can I ask you please where you bought these ?

  • 6 x GT2 Idler Pulley (20 teeth) 3mm bore
  • 2 x GT2 Idler Pulley without teeth (20 teeth) 3mm bore

I have bought a couple of these sets from several ebay/aliexpress sellers and always they come in bad shape. When I put them onto a shaft and try to rotate the pulleys, I always clearly feel that the bal bearing inside doesn't spin freely and that possibly balls have been damaged while they pressed the bearings in in the factory. So I'm actually looking for GOOD pulleys.

Also, what did you use to mount these 3mm pulleys ? Just m3 screws are 2.90mm so there would be play. You used 3mm shafts or something like shoulder screws ?

I dont know where your located but in the USA amazon or other online stores often ends up costing less than china because the shipping cost is a killer. A lot of these $3 or $4 parts I looked end up having $20 shipping fees and a 20 day wait time.

As for quality im not much help but at least with amazon you can read all the reviews and they are quick and easy to return if they are not good.
Scott should have affiliate links at all these websites so he can be getting paid for all his design work we are enjoying.

Hi, i got the pulleys from the same vendor as the NEMA 17 integrated stepper motor. Service is great and quality good.
Just plain M3 screws are working fine. No noticible slop and once under tension now issues at all.

Looks awesome, where did you get the black 3030 from? I need some of that in my life

Hi, the link is in the BOM on the details page.

I've scanned over it quite alot. There's no links for the 3030 extrusions just says use the calculator to find required lengths :/

Sorry, you're so right. Oops. Link now added.

You legend. Can't wait to see the double z axis version running

This is my new favourite printer

No problem and thanks!

Comments deleted.

HyperCube Evolution sophiscated wonderful excellent design
your youtube very good

Hi, thanks for the kind words. Much appreciated!!

Are you at all familiar with smoothieware?
I was considering the re-arm 32 bit board for ramps but have no experience with smoothie.

No, never used it. Worth a look I think.

I love your evolution man, well done, I cannot wait for the complete BOM and guide to build the double Z axis one.

As I already have some spare motors and I want at least a build volume of 300mm300mm400mm do I need the lead screw to be 400mm? (I already have one) and is there a way on the EXCEL spreadsheet to input the length of smooth rods and lead screws to get the size of the aluminium profiles?

Also when you get a chance, if you are so kind, could you design a support for the leadscrew for us with no integrated stepper motor?

Thank you for sharing this awesome mod.