Halo 4 Helmet Medium Size B

by big_red_frog Jan 14, 2014
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Where'd you get the transparent visor?

how long did this take to print?

Do you have the helmet in one full piece I'd like to cut the parts myself?

What is the head diameter? I don't want to print the wrong size, waste $30 and a hell of a lot of time. Thanks.

I want to print one for my 11-year old, and I have a 150mm3 print bed. Can I do it?

Do you need the magnets and tension pins or can you glue it together.

also what is the visor piece that is on the red helmet

that is a custom vacuum formed visor to make it look at remixes

i was wondering what was the depth, width, length inside the helmet and the helmet itself plus if padding is included ad that with it please

the m jowl left r1 0 has and error in thecode or the log and wont let me print it,. anyone have any ideas how to fix it?

Please do not declare an "error" without describing it and how it expresses and what are the symptoms, and what is your tool chain SW / printer.

All files are processed through netfabb basic which does wonders for STL integrity and I don't publish files unless I have proven them myself.

There is always the possibility that there are emergent latent errors around, exposed by tool chain mutations, but these files have now been printed multiple times by myself and others successfully.

I did say what it says , I like them helmet and I'm almost done I have 3 pieces left to print besides the m_jowl_r1_0. Every time I try to print it it says "error code Makerbot logs",and after I click ok the second window says says check Makerbot logs for info. And I asked for help if anyone had ideas how to fix it . Or maybe work around it. I only had my 3d printer a month or so and I printed about 30 things so far and the helmet is my first big, multi print I have tried so far . And I would like help if anyone would know how to get around that problem. Halo is one of my favorite storyline based games and I would definitely love to have it in my collection and I thank who ever designed this model, and shared it for all of use to use.

i got it to read , the file was loading it backwords and with a few turns and shifts on the build plate , it was able to read the format

What SW toolchain including release version?

What computer OS are you on?

What printer?

When does it display this error?

Is it the printer or the SW?

Do you know where the logs are?

Photograph or screenshots of the error reported?

There is no such file as "m_jowl_r1_0" please be very explicit in the information.

Have you managed to successfully print "M_JowlRight_r1_0.stl"?

(M_JowlLeft_r1_0.stl ) i got it to work . when i would hit prepare and send it to the build plate . i would have to hit the rescale and fit button, and after it was on the plate if you hit print the, issue would pop up . but its fine now , i was able to keep the size and scale, i just had to try diffrent rotations on the plate . i have the jowl right printed all ready . its staring the jowl left now. i have a duplicator s4 3d printer. and im using the maker bot software. and the only logs i know of is the back ground logs located in the services tab at the top of the page. and i thank you for your time in trying to help me with my issuses :) this is a very cool build and i cant wait to share the finished product hwen i am done . Thank you for your time

For future, if you are having to rescale and fit, then part orientation is wrong, unless your printer has a lower print volume than a replicator 2.

A rescaled part will be the wrong size and not fit the other pieces, so in the case of multi part models, don't do it!

STL's are oriented for the Z axis to ensure the right face is printed "down"

For other orientation see the print images from the size A http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:158120

Then rotate parts accordingly to align with the print bed in a similar fashion.

Halo 4 Helmet Full Size A

Big Red Frog, getting pretty dang close to done. Parts printed nicely, had some warping, but it worked out. Had some issues with overextrusion, so I had to hand fit those inserts pretty hard, but they worked out. Wish I'd installed the LEDs before installing the inserts. I have no idea what the plan in my head was at the time.

Print is done. Worked better than anything I could've done myself. Total of 93 meters of 3mm filament and 77 print hours. Successful parts only. Full project, including failures and a few other test pieces, easily fit on a single kilo spool. My 3v LEDs needed the 270 ohm resistors, but your weight seems pretty much spot on. Got some photos from various stages, but I won't be putting anything up here until final finishing is done. Minimum of 4-7 days for that, with all the drying time the paint needs.

Thanks again, it worked out beautifully, and if my machine and I can do this, I think we can do anything.

Edit: And I found a Slic3r bug and it got fixed for the next release. How cool is that?

Edit the second: wrong amount of filament

Destination in sight! Push on :-)

Proviso: I downloaded the files quite some time ago.

So, I'm about 26 hours into printing the pieces and have done probably two to three times that in non-functioning parts, and have been having quite a bit of trouble. Even with dialing in my printer on this over the past four months or so it's a massive feat and not for the faint of heart.

That being said, your parts are amazing. The orientation and design is absolutely beautiful. You REALLY understand how to make parts that are compatible with printing. For all the difficulties I've been having, it would have been downright impossible if I had to do this myself. Your LED instructions seem to run a low current, though. Is this to keep brightness down for an always-on display lighting?

Oh, and my left and right side inserts appear to be from the A model, as they don't fit even with excessive filing and retooling. I just broke them apart and fit the front manually. Files are suffixed r1_0 if that's a revision code. Also, the top back is difficult to print due to base separation, but that's probably just my machine.

In any case, -great work-, I'll upload photos when I'm done.

And for those of you asking, my current planning numbers are 1.2-1.5 kilos, and that's with a 0.4mm nozzle, two shell, 0.1 hex infill, and 0.2mm layer height (I wish I had a 0.75 nozzle and 0.4mm layer height, but if wishes were fishes . . .). A larger nozzle or coarser layer height, in my experience dialing this in, will increase consumption. I'd expect 1.5 - 2 kilos of filament. You do NOT want to run out, and spare is always good.

Hi Strikeferret, thanks for the comments.

Its a journey getting to the point you can print one of these, and your overall print capability will be better for it :-)

As a sanity I downloaded the left Jowl and insert for the medium B helmet direct from the web site and aligned in netfabb, I can assure you they are the right sized and matched files. The inserts have to be well aligned when pushing in from the inside, or it may well seem they don't fit. Beware of accidentally changing the scale on a piece during your slicing process, you would not be the first. The revision naming convention is simply 'r' = has been repaired in netfab as a precaution against malformed STL, and the release number, M_InsertLeft_r1_0.stl is the correct and latest version for the inserts for the medium size.

I am concerned at your weight implication, printing in PLA all, default for rep2, so a 0.4mm nozzle at 10% in fill, 2 shells, a sample medium helmet including all magnets, pins and printed visor weighs only 618 grams, which means you "should" be able to safely print a full helmet from a single 1 Kg reel with plenty of headroom for failures, support implications are at a guess +5%. See picture added to gallery...

For a typical 2 LEDs in series with the 560 ohm resistor the circuit should give 10mA, which for the ones I have are very bright. You can of course drop the resistor value for more current depending on what you have to hand.

Oh, yes, my prints are better for it! :)

The sizing may be something on my end, but I figured I'd let you know. I'm also printing in ABS which messes with shrink rates (my extruder supposedly doesn't even work with PLA, even if I had some). Supposedly that would make my model even lighter than PLA. All I have is my planning numbers from Slic3r, but as I said, that was first checked long ago. If you have one in your hands, I'd trust your numbers over mine.

I think I see the disconnect, at least assuming my numbers are right. Are you using 2v LEDs? I have 3-3.3v white LEDs, giving me a 10mA value of ~330 ohms.

Anyway, thanks for the information, I look forward to seeing how this turns out. Although I'm starting to see the appeal of PLA if it would reduce all this shrinkage-related trouble.

Edit: current finished parts are 64 meters of filament (Jowls, chin, visor, peak) or roughly 440 grams (I have no way of measuring directly). I think I've got some setting we're not considering that has me consuming more.

Unfortunately I don't have experience of shrinkage on ABS though I am aware its around 2%, even then it should be a constant so still surprised at the fit issues you had. I went PLA for this reason, and not regretted it yet.

ABS does appear lighter than PLA, by ~20%, so interested to know what your final weight comes out at.

White LEDs generally have a higher forward voltage drop to a typical red, so that explains your brightness issue.

Are you estimating your weights? Your 64 meters and 440 grams don't add up..

I wouldn't normally of gone checked that, but I am waiting for a print to finish, so passing time....

Yup, estimating with 7 grams/meter. I'm generally less concerned about +/- 10-20% than getting a ballpark.

The fit doesn't surprise me too much; as I said, I've been dialing this in for some time.

And I know how you feel. I'm printing the peak right now and this is only the third or fourth print since I started bedding confident enough to walk away for 15 minutes to an hour between checkups. Been a long project with 6-9 hour prints. I really need to rebuild the print bed for better rigidity, see if I can get the speed up.

Heh. I'll print a scale when I'm done to weigh it. :)

Are you on a 3mm filament? That may be what I was confused by on your numbers. What printer is that?

Yeah, 3mm. It's a rebuilt Prusa i3 with a Magma hot end. Marlin firmware, Slic3r and Pronterface. Extruder fan burned out on the last print (I seriously have the worst luck with this thing) so I can't even get calibration numbers out of it at this point.

So how much do it weigh

I might have to make a second helmet chase this one doesn't fit easily. the font piece has to be taken off in order to fit it on my head. If I make a second one would it just be better to make a size A for more room and more padding or should I scale up the size B

OMG you have the best name. I love RVB

Noting that the chin piece is removable as the original design has a close chin, so it's a feature.

I would recommend fitting the magnets and living with it.

I don't recommend rescaling.

If you want to go up a size , print the size A.

How much does it weigh?

This would be hard but maybe there might be a way to make pins that click in like the Lego technic pieces cause my pins are a pain and don't work

What is the rough price of this

I would like to print this helmet but I do not know the dimensions so I cannot choose witch one. I believe that i would be this size... if you can tell me the dimensions that would be greatly appreciated.

What head size would fit in size B? My Bell motorcycle helmet is a medium (57 to 58 cm) and fits comfortably (maybe a bit on the looser side). Would a medium work or should I move up to size A?

Noting this is guidance only, I am no expert in helmet sizes.

If we assume that the size A is 60cm
Size B is a 10% reduction of A so 54 cm
Size C is 15% reduction of A so 51cm

Yeah I think I accidentally scaled it a bit bigger thank though!

its REALLY COOL i am almost done printing my one but when i printed the "Right temple" it came out bigger than the left one
i will try to reprint it and see if there was a problem there

For sanity, in case I uploaded different files from those I worked with, I downloaded the zip file from thingiverse, and then placed both M_TempleRight_r1_0.stl and M_TempleLeft_r1_0 in netfabb basic.

The overall dimensions and volume were exactly the same, which is what they should be, as they are mirrors.

So I don't think there is anything wrong with the files.

Could you of mixed files with the size A or size C models?

Or accidentally scaled before slicing ( noting that sometimes, if an STL needs rotating to fit, makerware offers a "scale" option instead of just a "place on bed" option )

So cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you have a version of the roof in 2 parts? It won't fit on my print bed :(

Are you comfortable with netfabb basic, I believe it can arbitrarily split an stl in any plane.

There are enough pins in the sides that placing a split should be easy and not need it's own pins.

I never made a split form for this piece except in the full adult size.

If you are not able to do this yourself then respond, and I will see if I can fit it in, I'm a bit time pressured right now!

I've never used it, but will give it a go. Thanks for the response.

Did you print with full support or just exterior support?

printed with just exterior support just fine.

Nice! Could you make this Honeycomb Helmet shades for Marvin (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215703)http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... as well? He has this round ears where it would be possible to attach some kick-ass shades :)

3D Hubs Marvin - Key Chain
by 3DHubs