This is a refinement of the original "yet another shelf pin" by oferfrid
The original pin is simple, elegant, and printed in the right direction for maximum strength.
- Added a negative chamfer where the 'pin' meets the 'plate' - this ensures that the pin can come in full contact with the shelf. 3D printers just can't make precise right angles, there will always be a bit of a fillet, which makes it impossible to have the pin truly fully inserted into its hole.
- Chamfered the bottom - this way there won't be any 'elephant foot' or bigger squished 1st layer even when using no raft.
- Chamfered everything. Easier to insert into the hole, and also (insignificantly) stronger.
- Now, there is also an OVERSIZED version of the pin. For extra security with wonky furniture.
- Print a few of these at different scales. Depending on you printer's calibration and hole sizes, the ideal size differs.
- For my holes, the ideal scale was 91.5%, so I added an STL at that scale. Your mileage may vary.
- There's STEP, IGES, and F3D file, so remix away if you feel like it.
2017-04-19 Edit: Added plates of 20 pins. Some slicers (Cura looking at you) can have serious trouble processing so many copies internally, so I just pre-made a reasonable plate of pins for y'all.
2017-12-31 Edit: Added an OVERSIZED version of the pin. Meaning, the pin itself is the same as before, but I oversized the triangular section that holds the shelf. I find this useful when dealing with imprecise furniture that has more leeway.
PS: The original is modeled in freecad. I tried to re-mix in Freecad, but it just couldn't compute the chamfers... So this redesign is from Fusion360.
PETG is your friend. PLA also fine. ABS also fine.
Resolution don't matter, bigger layers mean stronger part. I use 0.3mm.
With 2 shells and 50% + infill the part is plenty strong. You could probably do 2 or 3 shells and no infill and still be fine. Not tested though.