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AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8

by pheneeny, published

AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8 by pheneeny Apr 21, 2017
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Fusion 360

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Summary

Check out my new website for finding filament print settings: 3DPrintingDB.com

My goal is to make it easy to find a starting point when using a new filament. Please let me know what you think!

AM8 - A Metal Frame for the Anet A8

This project aims to build a sturdy aluminum frame for your Anet A8, while re-using as many components as possible to keep costs low. This frame can be built for roughly $55, plus the costs of plastic.

The BOM.pdf file contains all of the parts you need to buy and where to get them.
The Build_Guide.pdf has the build instructions.

This frame uses Misumi 2040 aluminum extrusions and aluminum corner brackets for primary frame connections, and printed plastic parts for alignment.

This project only aims to replace the acrylic frame of the Anet A8. The project was designed and built with a stock Anet A8 in mind, in an attempt to reach the widest audience. Many of the existing mods and upgrades should still be compatible with this new frame, although some upgrades may no longer be needed.

This project does not address any other issues with the Anet A8. Those issues should still be fixed on their own (Such as the mosfet mod).

Ideally, your Anet A8 is not your only printer, so that rebuilding it does not leave you without a working printer if something should go wrong with your build.

Build this at your own risk.

Optional Parts

The Anet Board Mount can be printed with or without an 80mm fan mount attached. I recommend mounting a fan to help keep the board cool. Any 80mm computer fan should work. If you are using a fan, please print or buy fan guards to prevent fingers or wires from going into the fan.

Additional Parts:

T-Slot Wire Cover
E3D V6 Mount


Update 4/11/18

Updated BOM with new part sources due to closing of MrMetric.com
Added more stylish LCD Case Top

Update 10/21/17

Fixed broken Misumi links in BOM.
Added shorter bed screws to BOM to avoid interference with Y rod holders.

Update 5/13/17

Added E3D V6 Mount link

Update 5/6/17

Uploaded fixed STLs for the the following files:
Z_Motor_Mount_Right
Z_Motor_Mount_Left
Y_Motor_Mount
Z_Endstop
Anet_Board_Mount_No_Fan

All of the old files can be found in the old_stl.zip file

Update 4/28/17

Added Fusion 360 Design files

Update 4/22/17

Added missing link for M5 Square nut to BOM.

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I don’t have an M5 tap, what should I do? Is there a way around this without buying one?

Those T brackets aren't 100% necessary, and you could skip it if you can't get a tap. They mostly help with aligning the vertical extrusions, while adding a little rigidity. The frame might be a little more wobbly in the X axis without the rubber feet there, but you still have 4 feet at the corners.

However, you can by a cheap tap set for like $10 and some WD-40 that will do the job.

having a little trouble and hoping someone could help me out. my z axis lead screw and smooth rod are closer together than an original a8. the outside to outside distance of 24.9mm the rods are both 8mm (leadscrew and smooth rod) would anyone be willing to help me remix the motor mounts and upper rod holders to fit my application? any help would be greatly appreciated.

was just looking at the mitsumi page for the HBLFSNF5 brackets in the BOM
https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300437260/?HissuCode=HBLFSNF5
and decided to download the cad to mock one up for printing... and the cad is totally printable.
you need to download the STL (file format:other, other format:stl) and looks to be of good strength. but it needs supports

you do need an account to download the CADs from mitsumi
it's not hard. just use some made up business name. like "Apt 906 makers" and your home address. then wait for the account to be approved. and list your profession:other and industry:other

Made! I actually went with BLV's remix, but it wouldn't have happened without this build first!

Would that affect the quality and the vibration at all?

Are you asking compared to the AM8 or the original acrylic anet? I cannot compare my machine to the AM8 because I did not build the AM8 originally then add the linear rails later but rather went straight to the linear rails portion. Compared to the the acrylic anet, yes, I personally have had superior results.

i do not have an anet a8 but a clone of a clone, the tronxy p802d. I was some how able to break the acrylic frame (please don't ask lol) and get it up and running again. I printed a calibration square only to find that is was more of a parallelogram. the y axis was not even close to square to the x axis and the ringing I have had since this break is almost to much to take. I admit I am very new to 3d printing but a fast study. My place of employment has a dumpster full of 1"x1" 8020.net material. my question is, can this be remixed to use this free material?? I have no problem buying the parts as indicated in the BOM but have an abundance of free material at my disposal. (with the correct permission of course). from what I have been able to find the biggest difference I see is the z axis bearing and rod holders have a different center to center but not much else. If it is of help, I would be more than willing to trade design for materials. Either way, very great design and thank you for the insparation.

And as of right now, this is the cheapest way i could find on how to get the hardware. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AM8-Metal-Frame-for-ANET-A8-FASTENERS-ONLY-Screws-only-/273136997136, but you will still need to buy the m3x25 heated bed screws ;)

I added the m3x25 screws after initial release, and you can get by without them. The problem is the original bed screws can interfere with the new Y rod holders if you level the bed tight to the carriage plate (low). If you level your bed fairly high, the screws won't interfere.

Will it still work if I use square nuts instead of t-nuts?

Yes, but the square nuts need to be "thin". I've had users report that they bought square nuts that were different from the ones I listed, and they were too tall for the extrusion. I haven't found another source for the square nuts that I'm certain will fit into the extrusion, but I've bought those T nuts I listed and they work fine. MrMetric still has the square nuts in stock though.

Comments deleted.

the mrmetric website doesn't seem all of the screws required. what should I do? Thanks in advance

I sourced the metric fasteners through Ali Express and came in around $35 CAD (all with free or nearly free shipping). It's not ideal, but it'll do the trick.

im using this website, where I can get all of the hardware for $21 including shipping.https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/basket-contents.html

I'm in Canada, and the shipping page says that there is a $50 flat rate charge to ship up here.
I'm emailing locally to see if anyone can provide what I need. I had to order my aluminum extrusions and brackets from BC, and it wasn't as cheap as I would have liked (but this is a hobby, so i'll eat the cost)

Yeah, I’d love to find a place where I can get the extrusions with a cheaper shipping price, because at Misumi, it’s only about $35 for the extrusions and brackets, but then it’s about $20 shipping,

What about using Mcmaster Carr?

That could work i guess, but does anyone know where i can get a mount for the etopxizu 30a psu for this frame

I've been working on updating the BOM with new sources due to mrmetric closing down soon. For now, you can get the button head screws on Amazon

https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com has GREAT prices for all screws, even metric.

Thanks, you saved me from having to keep my acrylic frame!

Comments deleted.

How much would building this with 3060 aluminum rather than 2040 change the design? Do you think it's possible, or would the measurements be too far off to properly build the frame?

These parts come with the Anet A8 this kit uses. You print this part if you don't have a Anet. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1919544

Anet A8 X-Carriage Mounts
by Leo_N

They didn't fit due to Z rod spacing, at least for me.

Anet A8 X Axis Printed Pieces - Idler and Motor Holders
by AVZ

No but as long as there is no limit stop for the X rods in the right idler you should be fine.

Haven't printed them out yet, but I plan to do so. But I am going to check the sizes and shape beforehands via OpenSCAD or F360.

Thanks for the design! It's a huge improvement on the stock printer.

I also wanted to comment for anyone who has an issue with the wing nuts on the hotbed carriage hitting the y-axis rod holders, Mr. Metric carriers an M3x0.5 knurled nut, part number part M50759 for about $1.32/ea that gives the necessary clearance. I installed these with an M3 washer between the carriage and the knurled nut and everything works great.

I also wanted to note that my machine doesn't seem to have the Pause y-axis crash issue I've seen mentioned in other comments. I used the suggested 340mm side extrusions and my machine runs the stock Anet A8 firmware version that comes with the auto-leveling sensor, and after adjusting the home position and bed size in Slic3r PE the machine pauses without issue at the left rear corner of the bed.

I just finished building this and I am so very pleased with my printer again. My A8's heat bed was not squared with the x axis. Trying to print a square calibration print, where both diagonals of a square should measure 80mm, one would come out 79.5 and the other 80.5, I've tried adjusting the threaded rods to get it square, but that would just end up putting too much pressure on the smooth rods and would make it nearly impossible to level the heat bed making my want to pull out my hair.

Just finished this and the first thing I did was a square test print again... Now there is only a ~.05mm difference (80.03 x 80.08) which is one hell of an improvement from 1mm.. I could probably try to adjust it to get it lower, but I don't want to take my chances making it worse and I am pretty happy with .05.

Thank you so much for making this so easy with the BOM and guide. I am in the process of designing an electronics cage to contain my 2 mosfets and a rpi3 with the main board.

Just created two CAD parts for vertical stabilization (my base assambly gave me angled Z axis).
I'm printing them now and after test will publish it on my page.
additional hardware 2xM8 rods 380mm + 6xM8 nuts.

Just let me know if you have Z vertical issue two?

is this compatible with alunar m508?

Great project.

"All parts were printed without any supports" ~ That's fine, but some objects are floating in the air by default. E.g. what orientation should "1_Y_Belt_Tensioner.stl" or "1_Y_Motor_Mount.stl" be printed? I suppose I should rotate them to stand on their flat surface. Right? Will the Y tensioner be strong enough when printed vertically?

Nevermind, I printed it with support and also printed another kind of Y belt tensioner that can be printed easier.

At which distance do you place the Z axis on the Y axis?

Page 17 of the build guide has the answer: The back edge of the vertical 440mm extrusion should be 127mm from the back edge of the rear
extrusion of the bottom frame.

Nice work, do you have a link for the X-ends?

does anyone know if a tronxy p802d could be used as a donor for this frame? I cracked a piece of acrylic and have been looking for an upgrade. thanks in advance.

My AM8 y axis seems to be 1-2 cm too short, the heatbed always crashes in the front. And the printer has an offset of about 2,5 cm to the left on the x axis, so there's too much space on the right side and it prints in mid-air on the left. Help, anybody? Maybe post a Marlin config file...

Now that I think about it, my Y axis is only a few mm short. I could probably just move the Y sensor back a few mm and that would stop the bed crashing in the front... maybe.

That might work, just as long as the bearing still hits the endstop before it hits the plastic mount. You could also just reduce the size of the your build area in firmware by a couple of millimeters so that the firmware doesn't allow the bed to crash into the front.

I suppose I could just set it to 220x215 and it would be fine, but man so close! :)

I'm having a similar issue with the Y axis length. when I home the Y axis and move 220 forward I hit the frame between 215-220mm from the start. I'm not sure what to do about that issue.

Regarding the other issue you're experiencing. When I would home I noticed the X was -33 and the Y was 0. Measuring, the X axis was actually only 15mm from the left edge and Y was indeed 0 from the front bed edge. So... I modified the marlin firmware like this;
// The size of the print bed

define X_BED_SIZE 220

define Y_BED_SIZE 220

// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.

define X_MIN_POS -15

define Y_MIN_POS 0

define Z_MIN_POS 0

define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE

define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE

define Z_MAX_POS 240

After flashing, When I home then move to 0,0 the nozzle was right on the front left corner. When I go to 110, 110 it's dead center. Hurray!

Next was the bltouch, which I have mounted behind the X carriage. It's X=0 and Y=53 from the nozzle. So that means if the nozzle can only go to y=0, the bltouch will be Y=53. That's as close to the front edge that it can probe. So I have these settings;

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]

define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 53 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]

However, when I would run G29 and probe the bed, it was right on the edge! So I needed to adjust the probe boundaries 20mm inward on all sides (except the front which is already 53mm from the edge) so I have these settings;

define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20

define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200

define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 53

define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200

Notice each boundary is 20mm inward from the 0 edge or 220 edge of the bed, except the front which can't go any closer than 53mm, so that's as good as that gets.

now it's working perfectly! However... should we move the upright extrusions forward so the nozzle can go past y=0? and allow the probe to hit closer to 20mm from the front of the bed? not sure yet.

I finished my build today. But I have some problems with the print after leveling (see picture below).

G28 will center the nozzle right on the X on the bed
G29 will prob on 3x3 Points
But the print, for example a 20mm cube, has a offset off 23mm on X and 39mm on Y - but why?

===========================================================================

// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
define X_MAX_POS 220
define X_MIN_POS -11
define Y_MAX_POS 220
define Y_MIN_POS -40
define Z_MAX_POS 240
define Z_MIN_POS 0

===========================================================================

How can I fix this problem?

EDIT:

After hours of search and trial'n'error, I took a break and drank a coffee. And then, I saw the error. First, I centered the nozzle instead the sensor, and the the sensor offset was wrong. After some measurement, all is now fine <3

Where do you print the pieces that make legs that touch the ground?

Those aren't printed, they are rubber and bought from Amazon in the BOM

Does anyone have a recommendation for a X axis (holder and carriage)? Carriage preferred for e3d and BLtouch.

I have been using die Leo_N idler with my A8 before but the distance between them is smaller on the AM8. Is there a difference between A8 old/new version, resp. AM8?
I'll probably just drill them for now but I wanted to print new ones (in better quality) anyway.

What are you guys using besides the original ones?

I'm using this one; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2099577
I then added this on the left side so I could mount a 40mm fan instead of that noisy one that comes with the anet.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748293
and this mount for the bltouch.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2330764
Enjoy!

ANET A8 | Customizable E3D v6 Carriage / Bowden Mount
by TNS
Anet A8 40mm Adjustable Universal Print Fan Adapter
by Guimly
BL Touch Rear Mount

As for the Ed3 mount, I use this one. It is totally awesome- especially with a half circle fan duct. I added a bltouch mount to mine.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1632847

E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v2 for Prusa i3
by Tech2C

I have a request, if you have the time: The Z brackets that sit at the top of the AM8 to hold the linear rods in place don't give ways for if lead screws were to be higher... Is it possible for you to modify them so they can allow lead screws to be taller? I replaced my lead screws because they were bent, and the smallest I could find was 350mm tall. :(

There are a couple of remixes that should work for you. I haven't tested either of these though.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526881

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2544037

Z-Rod Holder
by LTH
Z rod holder
by Ludicer

So, printed all the parts and working on assembly. When I got to the step of attaching the Z motor mounts to the frame, the screw heads don't fit into the recessed screw holes. Anyone else have this problem? Everything else so far has fit perfectly, so I can't believe that my printer just did a bad job on those two parts. I'm not sure if I should try to carefully drill out the plastic, or modify the stl and reprint, which would add another day or two of printing to the job. Thanks.

Mine fit tight, but I usually just tighten the screw into the plastic either using the threads on the screw, or putting a nut on the back and tightening it down. But if its too tight for that, drilling works fine too.

I just realized this was all my error. I was supposed to use the socket head screws to attach the z mounts to the extrusion, not the button head. Ugh!!! That would explain why the screw heads didn't fit in the holes! haha.

Yeah, the screw heads were like 1-2mm larger than the opening. I just drilled it out slowly with a 3/8" bit and no problem. I do worry if it'll be stable but if it isn't I can always modify the stl and reprint in the future. Thanks.

I would just recommend drilling it out. It is the quickest solution, and as long as you drill slowly (as to not melt the plastic) you should be fine. Use some washers to make it extra strong :)

I drilled slowly and it worked. Thanks.

Do I need I type or B type alluminum extrusion? Thanks

I would also like to know this...

Have an example of the difference between the two types?

What are those long red tabs inserted into the metal slot to hide the cables in the 5th photo? Is there a print file for them?

Linear Rail Slot Covers - Hide your wires!

Hy,

can you please share your CAD models, maybe a step file or something like that.

I want to make an Anet AM8 combined with an enclosure.

And it would be really nice to use your model and some of your 3D printed parts.

Maybe you can send me a link :) Thank you!

AM8.f3d is the Fusion 360 project file and contains all of the source models for the build. Fusion 360 is a free CAD tool.

okok nice, then i have to try to convert it, thank you!

I am in a “Catch 22” situation. I cannot get my Anet A8 Working smoothly enough to be able to print parts, so I want to change the frame to this aluminium version. But as I cannot print parts I cannot put together the aluminium frame! Is there anyone selling printed parts for the conversion in the U.K. or EU? A Google search hasn’t come up with anyone so far......

What material are you after, i did mine in PETG. May be able to sort something out, i can print and mail them. I printed mine on my mk3 so quality is great.

Chickey very kindly printed off all of the parts I needed to make the conversion to a metal frame. The members on this forum are so helpful, what a great bunch of guys.

Hey guys, I just realized I need to get holes tapped in my aluminum extrusions, but I have no clue how to go about getting that done. Any ideas, other than buying hundreds of dollars worth of equipment for two tiny holes?

EDIT: Turns out you just need a $10 'tap' drill bit, not a whole tap and die set. That makes much more sense.

don't use a tap-drill bit. They're typically for thin materials and not really designed for this application.

I'd say that it'd be best to get a set like this and a small can of Tap Magic. The Tap Magic will help the tap move through the metal without getting too gummed up.

Just be very careful, taps are hardened steel and thus very brittle. They're incredibly easy to break and nearly impossible to remove once broken.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q2NTTS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B072Q2NTTS&pd_rd_wg=0yXVO&pd_rd_r=XTPN3XV1NGG2JMQCQGY1&pd_rd_w=1AHmJ&keywords=metric%20tap

https://www.amazon.com/Forney-20857-Magic-Industrial-Cutting/dp/B003X3ZKXI/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003X3ZKXI&pd_rd_r=XTPN3XV1NGG2JMQCQGY1&pd_rd_w=5OUBH&pd_rd_wg=0yXVO&psc=1&refRID=XTPN3XV1NGG2JMQCQGY1

Watch some youtube vids here and there to get comfortable with tapping and method then try it on a spare piece or a piece that doesn't really need a tap for practice

Can someone tell me the full dimentions of the frame, i need to know this cus i have an enclosure.

Question. Is cheaper /worth to buy separate parts to build this, or to buy and Anet a 8 to do it?

You're better off buying loose parts, especially if the goal is to make a quality printer. The A8 is a collection of cheap parts - rods are crap, bearings are crap, H plate holding the heat bed is crap, wiring is crap, power supply is crap, the pushbutton user interface is horrible/slow compared to something with an actual knob you can turn, etc. You're paying for a bunch of parts you won't use (the frame) and you'll probably end up replacing a bunch of the other parts anyway.

I'd check this out - building the cheapest possible Prusa MK2 clone:
https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/

And here's a remix of the AM8 Z axis brackets to have a 17mm lead-screw-to-guide-rod distance, allowing you to use Prusa MK2 bits:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503989

AM8 Multi X Axis Mounts (17mm and 21mm for now)

I have to disagree with your comments about the stock parts being junk. Maybe you got your A8 from a different vendor than me. The A8 is very inexpensive but if bought from a reputable dealer (I got mine from Gearbest) you wind up with a bunch of very good quality electronics. My A8 has been printing basically nonstop for a year or two without a hiccup. And I have abused the heck out of it.

Add to that the upgrade ability of the control board (reflashed with Marlin and Bltouch) and it’s pretty unbeatable

I stand by my statement.

Electrically, A8's are famous for burning up heat bed connectors (hey, lets take a 10 amp rated connector, run 10 amps through it, and use not-all-that-flexible cable with no strain relief, in an application which subjects the connector to flex...) and motherboard connectors also have a tendency to burn up (crappy connectors also run at their ratings, and there's thermal relief on the connector footprints on the PCB design... bad bad bad)

The power supply is also a clone of a 150W Mean Well RS-150 power supply, stickered with a 240 chinawatt rating, that gets bloody hot - especially if you're printing ABS, TPE or other things that require the heat bed to run hot. They're also famous for dropping dead, and they have no CE/UL/whatever certifications. It really can't keep up with the load of the printer - you can hear your extruder cooling fan speed up/slow down slightly when the heat bed kicks on and off.

These are design issues common to all A8s. You can get around them by direct wiring your heatbed, using external MOSFETs, putting a cooling fan on the power supply or swapping in an ATX supply or whatever... but fundamentally any 3D printer worth buying should not require all this stuff to be done to it!

The fact is, your are correct about every shortfall you mention about the stock A8. I have in fact addressed almost every one of these things: I direct soldered power to the heat bed (0 $), added a separate heat bed MOSFET ($3) and installed fans on the control board and cheapo power supply. All this really has left me with a very reliable printer - and I say this after hours and hour of printing.

I guess I didn’t think much about these simple fixes because I paid $129 US for it!! Bottom line: I would buy another one in a heartbeat for an AM8 build. But that’ just me.

Thanks for this design I am very happy how the build has turned out,

I know there's some talk of it on this thread but not too many answers. I have finished my AM8 build this week and wondered what settings people have settled on regarding acceleration and jerk? Or perhaps is it best leaving them settings default but printing higher speeds than before?

I tried 1000 acceleration but noticed underextrusion on a couple (not all) corners which i am not sure if its the hotend not coping or the extruder.

I'm currently running acceleration at 1800 for X, 1600 for Y and 15 for jerk. However, I'm still using the terrible stock belt on the Y axis, I tried using a steel core belt on the X axis, but the tight angle of the small pulleys have destroyed that belt. I think I could go for higher acceleration and jerk with better belts.

Hi there,

I have been using this upgrade for a few months now and noticed that my Y motor bracket is bent!! I printed a new one with more walls and more infill, but this one too is bent.. When viewed from the top, with the belt tension, the motor is rotated clockwise...

Maybe someone has experienced this and found a solution... before I burn brain cells to come up with one!!

Thanks!!!

What material is the bracket printed with? If it is PLA, it may be warping due to the heat of the bed.

High heat PLA...

I just took a look at mine, and I can see a slight bend in mine too. Granted, mine is regular PLA still, and it doesn't look like it is effecting the prints, but it looks like something I'll have to fix in the next revision. In the mean time, try printing it in something like ABS, or with a higher infill density.

I think I found the main problem... I have been using TMC stepper drivers and had the amperage too high for these original motors... The Y motor was hot as hell!!!! I couldn't touch it even after machine was off and I was undoing all the screws!!! I lowered the amps and it cooled down quite a bit.

I put the torch to the bracket and re-straightened it. I am sure it will not warp as much as it was. Like you, I have been looking for a solution to strength it...

Thanks for coming back to me!!!

What is better? Y 340 mm or 364 mm?

thnx for answer

If I was ordering today, I would probably order 360mm. But as I don't have that to test with, I don't want to put that in the official build untested.

Hi there!
Do any of you use thumbwheels beneath the H plate? I would like to, but they hit the Y rod holders :/

There's a set of thumbwheels for the A6 that are designed not to hit the frame - they're essentially the same outer diameter as the wingnuts for the bed. Let me find the link
Okay, here's the two I've downloaded:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2044042
Designed for the A6

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2395388
Designed for the A8

Both fit nicely through the tiny gap between the hot bed frame and the printer frame as they're the same diameter as the wingnuts. Hope these are of some help to you

Anet A6 Table nut and cover spring
Anet A8 Bed Leveling Knob

Great work and thank you. I do have one question. Has anyone drawn this up using 80/20 brand aluminum extrusion? We use the imperial version and I have some scrap laying around.15/15 and 15/30

Hi guys,

first of all i'm new here, and i'd like to thank pheneeny for the design of the frame. I just want to make a 3d printer from scratch using this frame as it is really compact and neat looking. I've put up a list of things that i need can you guys please check if i'm missing anything?

thanks!
3D V6 3D Printer long distance J-head&Single Cooling Fan for 1.75mm/3.0mm Bowden Filament Wade Extruder 0.3/0.4/0.5mm Nozzle
AM8 Frame
AM8 Frame printed parts
Power Supply S-360-12
Fused Power Switch
Bearings
Hatchbox PLA
Anet Linear Screw 2 Phase 42 Stepper 1.8 Degree Motor
2xT8 - 2 - D8 300mm Stainless Steel + Chrome Steel Lead Screw - GOLDEN
Practical 6 - 36V Auto Leveling Sensor for 3D Printer
12V 40W Ceramic Cartridge Heater DIY 3D Printer Part
3D Printer 3mm Square PCB Heat Bed MK3 / Reprap Hot Plate Dual Voltage 12 / 24V
"Ramps 1.4 kit:
1x Mega 2560 R3 ATmega2560-16AU+CH340G Arduino Board
1x Ramps 1.4 board w/ jumpers and power connector
1X 12864 Full graphic LCD smart controller (comes with SD-Card reader, rotary encoder, connectors, 2 ft long cables)
1X 40"" Gold plated/shielded USB cable w/noise suppressor. Essential for stable connection and printing.
3X Mechanical endstop switch w/ 40"" cable
5x A4988 (maximum 2A/phase, w/sufficient cooling) stepper motor driver
5x Aluminum heatsink w/ 3m heat conductive tape backing"

In the file list I do not see an X belt tensioner... does this design not need it or should one still be used but outside of the scope of this project?

Since the X axis stays pretty much stock, most 3rd party tensioners should work fine so I didn't include one here. I am using a X belt tensioner

for those of us building this from scratch instead of an upgrade...... where would one find the x axis files?

People please be wary of buying the extrusions on eBay [yeah yeah i know]. I found a seller on there using an image from this thing(probably without permission), I purchased a kit of the extrusions (marked up obviously) and never received it, no refund or resolution either from the seller, eBay, or Paypal. order from mitsumi usa if you have the patience that I clearly lacked when looking to buy.

I saw the same add on eBay and something didn't sit right with me, which is why I decided to purchase the extrusions from Mitsumi USA. It sucks that eBay nor PayPal could not help to rectify the situation.

I ordered that kit on Ebay and didnt have any issues. The seller was responsive to questions as well. Maybe, I got lucky.

I'm going to make this upgrade in the next few days, already ordered everything. I want to use a E3D V6 hot end (direct driven) with a 12mm sensor for bed levelling. I was looking and wasn't able to find any carriage. Can someone point me to a good design that fits my needs?

Thanks in advance!

Try designing it yourself! I'm sure there are models out there, but learning CAD is a good thing to know, especially when you have a 3D printer. If you just want to design simple things, you can use TinkerCAD or some simpler CAD software like that, which is very easy to learn. If you are more interested in it and want to learn how to make more complex models, go for Solidworks or Fusion 360 (or Creo), and there are plenty of other softwares, too. Then you can make your own custom mount!

I know how to CAD (a little bit, not an expert). I just asked because someone could have designed a part already and therefore, there was no need to reinvent the wheel.

But I do understand your point and truly appreciate your comment!

Would this work? It seems to have a modular leveling add on... whether it is for 12mm probes, I don’t know.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2193695

Anet A8 E3D V6 Bowden MODULAR X Carriage V4 *BEST ONE*
by Don1337

Oh I see! Well if you’re just looking for a v6 mount it should be easy, but the leveling sensor might be the challenge... but there might be one....

how much filament will this take

How are people printing the Y Tensioner without supports?

The Y belt tensioner is shown properly oriented in the photos, the Y belt tensioner block needs to be oriented the same way the Y rod holders are oriented for printing, standing on one of the long sides.

Alright so i'm from Australia and am trying to purchase the Extrusions from Misumi but on the website, Australia is not an option. What should i do ? Is there any alternative options to the Extrusions ?

Hey there,
I've ordered mine at:
http://www.ratrig.com/am8-3d-printer-extrusion-profile-metal-frame-full-kit-for-anet-a8-upgrade-blk.html
This is a company in Portugal and they send it with DHL. I guess Australia shouldn't be a problem, Belgium wasn't!

Good luck!

Gert

This might be a stupid question, but I have finished printing all parts and have all the hardware except for the feet ordered off Amazon because stupid me overlooked it. Are they absolutely nessicary. I want to start assembling asap and don't want to wait for prime to come through in a few days as well as spend another $7 but If I need it I need it.

No they aren't absolutely necessary, just nice to have. You can assemble without them. You may want to print out some feet. It helps to have the printer elevated for the LCD cable

Hello everyone!

Is it correct that only the 440mm extrusions need tapped holes for this project? If anyone has ordered their parts from Misumi pre-tapped, is this the correct product code: https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302684350/?HissuCode=HFS5-2040-440-LTP

Just wanting a quick confirmation on what needs threads before I put in an order.

Happy New Year!

That is correct, only the 440s need tapping. That link looks correct, but I didn't have Misumi tap mine.

Thanks so much!

When assembled with the 3D printer parts added, what are the final dimensions.

I'm in the process of building a box for my printer and I want to make sure I don't make the box too small before the components arrive.

I built an enclosure out of Ikea Lack tables. The area of the table is a good size for the printer, not too tight and not too much extra room. I needed to extend the legs 10cm to make the table tall enough for the printer. You may even be better off going 15cm, as 10 is a little tight.

PLEASE HELP: AND BY THE WAY MR METRIC HAS A 15% OFF CODE RIGHT NOW FOR CHRISTMAS: XMASGP12

Once we want to buy the extrusions off of misumi, should we use the link that is provided in BOM or should we use the item code that is provided in BOM? Because I noticed that the link shows the item only but if you insert the code it will show you the specific extrusion you completed. Also how would I want to get the same extrusions but in black anodized aluminum?

Misumi tends to change their urls from time to time. The part number is more important. Just make sure it's a size that you need. There should be an option for black on the left side. You may need to unchech the option for a clear coating for the black option to appear.

That Mr. metric sale is better than nothing but they often have 20%-25% off sales as well

Love this design and for that, gonna upgrade mine. But got couple questions. Does the distance of Vertical frame(z-axis) from the back of Y-axis matters? If so what is the distance? I cannot find the dimension in BOM. Thanks.

Its in the Build Guide PDF. (Which is excellent btw) Here is the copy n paste from page 15 to save you looking it up:

  1. Before tightening the screws attached to the frame bottom, you need to position the vertical extrusions on the bottom frame. The back edge of the vertical 440mm extrusion should be 127mm from the back edge of the rear extrusion of the bottom frame. The most important part about positioning the vertical extrusion is ensure both extrusions are aligned, and equal distance from the back of the bottom frame.

Very good designed Project - Thank you for sharing this with us!

At the moment I will start to order the needed pars listed in BOM. And I found this set of extrusions: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/AM8-Aluprofile-und-12-Winkel-20x20
But in BOM there is listed "3 X length 313 mm" ... this set includes a Little bit Shorter length of "310 mm"! Is there a Problem if I us the Little bit Shorter (3 mm) extrusions?

Thanks in advance fo all helpful answers.

I just bought this kit (Dold). The Extrusion is not V rail, and is just straight sided. Whilst that's not a problem unless you want to use a V to run some wheels in it.
I have found two issues with their kit. Neither are major, and are easily overcome.

  1. The hole up the middle of the extrusion is larger than in a V rail. You cannot put a 5mm thread in there as the hole is too big. HOWEVER, You can easily get a M6 thread in there without any difficulty at all. Which is what I have done. Seeing that mine will stand on rubber feet having a larger / thicker bolt head should not be a problem.
  2. The 90 degree joiners are quite nice. However they do not fit when you have a Crossed Bar joint. Like from the side of the vertical gantry into the front to back bottom rail, and again on the wide side of the vertical gantry rail into the wide side of the front to back lower rail. I have some Chinese joiners and these are not as nice, but have small raised bits that are easily filed down flat. So you can get one set of locating pegs in, and the other one has to be removed so it can butt up tight to the rail. I would suggest 4 off 40x40mm (8 holes) Angle brackets, and two 20x40 (6 hole) right angle brackets, and I am going to see if I can get some.
    OK I am a bit pedantic, and want my metal frame to be rock solid. After all this is the point of converting to the AM8.

As for the costs. The Dold Mechatronik kit is cheaper at 27 Euro (plus VaT, then, + Postage at 19Euro), than the RatRig one at 65 Euro (Plus Vat, then + postage at 13 Euro). Although it has cost me a lot more, as buying the "hammer nuts" and a load of hex head screws was a lot more than I expected. The Ratrig one comes complete with nuts bolts and brackets. Also the Ratrig one is V Section extrusion and will accept a M5 tap up the centre hole in the end.
Ratrig also offer it in Black.

NEITHER supplier offers a 365mm lower rail option, and I think they should, as buying that separately has added to my costs. These extrusions are NOT cheap, even when buying from China. I bought two 365mm rails from Ooznest.co.uk. Not cheap, but good quick service and helpful people. ( wanted it before Xmas so I have something to do!)

If I was doing this again I would buy the Ratrig one as It would have worked out cheaper for me.
Having said that there is NOTHING WRONG with the Dold Mechatronik one.

These are my personal views, based on what I have found out so far. Both kits appear viable, just be aware of the costs when adding it all up, and whether you want 340 or 365 side rails.
Namely do your homework more thoroughly than I did!

Hope this helps someone.
Geoff

Thank you very much Geoff,

for this good and helpful Information. And especially for your thoughts about this "little" differents .

Have a nice end of the year - And best wishes
Alfred

You would loose 3 mm off the X-axis but that wouldn't hurt it in any way. You would just need to adjust your travel limits in the firmware so it doesn't crash on the other side but that's no big deal. I've been running mine for a couple weeks now with this upgrade and its a very fun build and a killer quality improvement over the stock frame so your going to have a blast just like I did I'm sure!

Does this just affect the end stops or is the print area affected? There is one version of this that keeps the X axis the same length...I'm debating going with that version and just buying longer rails.

@ DinkyMods:
Thank you for this helpful answer!!!

Thanks for sharing.
Really easy to assemble.
Profile ordered from motedis.

I have also thougts of buying from motedis, and thinking of adding some T- and L-brackets (58x58mm) for the corners. Please share some views of your build.

Hi,
very nice project. I started to print the parts and make the order at DOLD-Mechatronic and some stuff at Ebay.
This part here is very useful for the heatbed and gives a good hold to the models made of ABS, PLA or PETG. I ave a one on my Anet A8.
https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/spezial-dauerdruckplatte-220mm-x-220mm-fuer-anet-a8-3d-drucker-u-a/764691244-168-386
Perhaps the dealer will send it to other countries, you must ask him.
When I have finsished my project AM8, I will post some pics.

Will i need to drill or tap any holes in the extrusions?

Yes. If you order the misumi extrusions you will need to tap 4 holes with an M5 tap.

You can get holes pre-tapped from misumi for a very reasonable cost. You just need to specify which ends you want to tapped when you add the piece of extrusion in your cart.

is this frame really worht the upgrade and does it give better prints?

This may result in better prints depending on your setup, but the reason I'm upgrading is to cut out maintenance more than improving prints. If you don't have a frame like this, you will probably have to readjust and tighten the rods and nuts that hold your machine together every 2 months or so. I've found that the vibration of the machine loosen the connections over time. As far as prints go, if your axes aren't perfectly aligned, your printed objects will have skewed dimensions. So in that regard, this will improve print accuracy.

I'm sure this is a shot in the dark, but do you have the stl files for your x axis motor mount and idler, or a recommendation of which to download from thingiverse? I am upgrading to lead screws from threaded rods for the z axis along with the AM8 upgrade and must replace these x axis parts, but I am uncertain about compatibility regarding spacing between the lead screw and smooth rod. I downloaded the official files from Prusa's website, but their mounting holes for the lead screw nut was off (picture attached).

Holy cow that is close! LOL! I printed another Prusa-type version so I can have 45mm spacing between the rods and use the nifty X carriage that I wanted to use. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2328353 I printed that in Orange PETG and they turned out pretty awesome actually.

X Axis motor mount for Anet A8 or Prusa i3
by Randino

Thanks for the recommendation! Yeah I suppose the original prusa file was made for a slightly more wide lead screw or something. I will print the one you linked tonight and see how it compares.

Does anyone else have the issue of the y end stop not getting engaged? Y platform hits motor mount before making contact with y switch.

Did you resolve this? If not, try turning the H-frame up side down so that the cross bar is on top... Also, this way the belt mount will have a bit more space.

Yes. I edited a new y endstop and moved the switch a couple mm outboard. Works fine now.

The link is in the description: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832077

That should work for T and V slots

Linear Rail Slot Covers - Hide your wires!

awesome! Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Hey should I print the parts with ABS or is PLA fine?

I printed mine in PLA originally, and it's held up pretty well, even in an enclosure. I'm in the process of desinging and upgrade and I'm printing those parts, and some replacements, in ABS. I'd recommend PETG or ABS if you can.

I used PETG and it worked great. Others had success with PLA too.
I try to avoid ABS as it warps and its not very healthy. PETG is most of the time a better choice.

I'm done. How tf do i order these misumi brackets Without entering my Company(which i don't have)???

Just put your name in as the Company.

Thanks for answering. Should have come up with that Idea myself

Edit: Europe is unfortunately not an Option in Countrys. Anyway, i will find a way.

Hi Supernova69, you might try Dold Mechatroniks in Germany: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/AM8-Aluprofile-und-12-Winkel-20x20

Hi I was wondering how did you calculate the length of the extrusions for the x and y axis? I want to upgrade to a 300*300 xy build plate (boviously I need new rods and a new carrage (I can make those)) I just want to know where your measurements came from

The bed roughly needs to have travel room 1.5 times the bed length in the Y axis, plus extra room for nozzle clearance. I based my measurements off of the rod length though.

I would recommend against a 300x300 bed in a style with a moving bed. The bed will be heavy and force you to print slow. If you want that large of a bed, build a CoreXY.

alright, ill hold off on the 300*300 until my custom build, thanks for the reply

Comments deleted.

Ok, so I built this and it is nice and sturdy, but I cant figure out where to set the bed edges (When I print, the print is over to the left I would say about 30mm and towards the back by about 5-8mm). Can someone tell me where to either set the direct center of the bed (In relation to the print nozzle) or where to set the edges?

You will need to update your firmware and change the home position. To figure it out, home you X and Y axis. Then, using the LCD, move the head of the nozzle to the corner of the bed. Mark the X and Y position while the nozzle is at the corner. You need this to be 0,0 so take the ngative values of where you are at now and set that as your home position in firmware.

For example, if your printer is at 20X and 10Y when the nozzle is on the corner, set your home position in firmware to -20X and -10Y

Someone could help me with one information?
I need to know dimension of AM8
thanks in advance

The board mount holes don't line up with my A8's controller board holes. Has anyone come across this issue? It's the board that came with it.

Every Anet A8 is a little different it seems. Mine has a Melzi style board but others have a different board.

Anyone have the upgraded psu? I was measuring the stl for the psu holder and it isn't going to work with the upgraded one. Having a b** of a time finding one.

good observation. I will try to make an stl for that mount when I have the chance!

can you measure the bolt pattern on your psu for me? Center to center for the screws.I'll need distance from, lets say, the top to bottom, then the bottom to side.

For anyone in the UK (or Europe too I guess) who's having issues getting some of the Misumi corners, I've had a friend bring a load back from the US for my next build (I'm going to play with CNC routing). I've stuck them up on Ebay for now in case anyone in the UK is still trying to get hold of a few:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332439981235?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

I would buy them, but the shipping to Europe is just to much.

Edit: Do you know by any chance a different Place to order them?

Firstly I'd like to say a huge thanks to Pheneeny, this (and his additional bits) is a great design, and a huge help to the maker community. I've personally learned a huge amount from building my machine, and all the time spent playing and fine tuning. I enclose pictures!

A couple of points if it helps anyone:

I've gone with this hotend: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Distance-J-head-Extruder-Cooling-Printer/dp/B01IBK12G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509976732&sr=8-2&keywords=e3d+v6&dpID=41TFw6bpw%252BL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It incorrectly shipped with a 0.3mm nozzle - took me a lot of PETG to diagnose that, but I learned a lot in the process. I'm using Pheneeny's recommended mount plate and cooling duct. The output quality is excellent, and the dimensional accuracy is impressive once you get it dialled in correctly.

I personally use Real filament PETG - it's nice and cheap, and the quality is good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Real-Filament-8719128328881-Spool-Opaque/dp/B01MG5QXLW/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1509993408&sr=1-1&keywords=real+filament+PETG&dpID=51RYunXwVZL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I use 220°C Extruder, 80°C hotbed and I get (almost) no corner warping. A brim helps there if you want it totally flat.

Definitely upgrade to Skynet - I'm using V2.3.1. It's worth it for the added safety features alone.

Pro-tip I learned - at the stock settings, without an enclosure the heated bed will struggle above 100°C. It will throw an error in the firmware ('thermal runaway' I think). If you're not using an enclose it's safe to crank the output voltage of the PSU up to 13.5V to give that little bit more power to the hotbed. I'm using 12 gauge wiring, and a MOSFET on both the bed and hotend.

I printed mine all in PLA, I've only replaced the cooling duct so far as it started to sag a bit when printing PETG.

I've had a few issues when wanting to replace extruder hardware so I made up a little bit of stripboard with PCB connectors so you don't have to de-loom the whole thing to get the heater cartridge or the thermistor cable out. Just be careful to take the hotend wire through the stripboard and solder direct to the pins on the PCB terminals.

I'll be printing up a new hotend mount in PETG, and adding a bit more strain relief for the main loom when my new extruder hardware gets here. I'm not happy with the stock attachment for the extruder motor, it's using a single countersunk M6 bolt and the threaded PTFE tube to secure it.

Hope that helps, and good luck to anyone else thinking of going down this route. I can absolutely reccomend it!

Has anyone had the Y belt tensioner on this mod actually fit each other part? There was NO-way these parts would slide together after printing them.

Rest of the parts were great.

I had to do a little bit of sanding, but then it fit perfectly.

If you work the two parts together for 5 minutes they will loosen and work freely

Yeah, I got them to fit perfectly by adjusting the horizontal offset from 0.00mm to -0.10mm when printing the Y block. This made the holes about 0.2mm wider without having to adjust the STL file itself. I printed the Y Belt Tensioner at 0.10mm layer heights and lowered the nozzle temperature for this object so the surface finish would be as perfect as possible. Picture attached.

if you mean the y tensioner check my tweaked file
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2294743

Y Block with looser holes

So someone else did have tightness issues then.

I think there is a remix floating around with looser tolerances on the belt tensioner, but mine fit perfectly together.

Interesting, I used yours and had to sand the square prongs and open up square holes they went into. Both considerably. They appeared to be printed at exactly the same size. i.e. outside dimension equal to inside dimension. took considerable sanding. Printed beautifully just the same dimensions!

Thank you so much for the well-laid out plans, pheneeny. I've been working on upgrading my Reprapguru prusa clone to a version of your AM8 for a while and am getting near the end of the process. My question is regarding the PSU bracket. I am using a different PSU from that of the the Anet A8, and only one of the 3 screw holes lines up with the holes on my PSU (see picture). Would you happen to have a modified version of the mount for this type of PSU, or is there another existing design you would recommend? I have searched but none are as clean as yours. Thanks!

Sorry, I don't have any other bracket designs. If you. Have any experience with a CAD tool like Fusion, it shouldn't be too hard to make a bracket to fit those holes.

I've been teaching myself the basics of CAD, so I'll see if I can get a modified version up. Thanks!

If you can't get it, I also have the same issue, let me know the bolt pattern for your PSU and I'll see if it matches mine

From center to center, my top screw holes are 150mm from the bottom holes, and the bottom left is 50mm from the bottom right. I drew a diagram to visualize, attached below. Hopefully they match! I've run out of my 30 day free trial of Fusion 360, so I am looking for the best free option for stl editing until I can get a subscription to Autodesk. Have any recommendations?

Edit: There are also those 4 screw holes on the periphery of the unit which I included in the drawing but did not measure. I assume we are referring to the inner screw holes, but I can measure the other ones if they are relevant.

My Anet A8 has an arduino and ramps board. So, a completely different screen all together as I couldn't find any drivers for that LCD that came with the Anet with the five buttons. I am also using repetier so there is that.IS there any option display that I Can print for the LCD screen? Currently I'm using this one: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/3d-printer-reprap-smart-controller-ramps-lcd-control-with-knob.html?___store=en_us but I also have the full display screen I could set up.

There a website called Thingiverse.
If you head over to that site and type in the search bar " 2004 LCD Case" it will give you all the available print that have been submitted. Try looking at #10 or #11.
If that doesn't work, here's the link.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2216282

Good luck

Reprap LCD 2004 Case
by Motalw

Oh perfect, thanks man. Appreciated!

Hello all.

I converted my Anet A8 to this AM8 and i like the results a lot.
I don't know how to math very well. Does anyone know what would it take (length wise) regarding the aluminum extrusion if I want to build one with a 24inch heat bed and a height of 36 inches?
Thanks for the help.

I would not recommend that. If you want a bed that big, you should go with kinematics that has a stationary bed, like a CoreXY design. That would be a giant bed to move for the Y axis. Also, I don't thing 2040 extrusions would be sturdy enough for a build that big. Probably have to go 4040.

Not sure whether this has been mentioned before.
Anyone from the netherlands know where to buy the extrusions?
I have found a few sellers but they don't offer cutting service.

Hoi Deodutie,

Dold Mechatroniks from Germany has a pre-cut set available, check it out here: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/AM8-Aluprofile-und-12-Winkel-20x20

holy hell thank you so much

You're welcome! Nice eh? :-)

So I am ordering all this right now. Just for future reference, if users are having trouble adding items to the cart @ the website it's because their shopping cart system is down, or not stable. So, what you need to do is go to the upper right hand corner (after making an account obviously) and choose the "Quote" section. Then you can manually enter the product ID's and quantities.

Is there any drawback to use M6 screws for bottom tapped holes ? (my retailer sells 2040 extrusions with 5mm holes half the price of those with 4.2mm holes)

Nope. You just have to buy different screws, and drill out the hole in the tee plate to fit the larger screw.

i am sorry but could you update the links in BOM.pdf because at least all the links of the extrusions shows the same thing, thanks a lot

I don't think I can link directly to the extrusion with the exact length. You will have to fill out the options on the left and enter the length you want.

you can also copy and paste the product name and add the length ( 440 ) behind it, that'll take you right to it to add the cart

Thanks for your help

This might sound like a silly question (or it might already have been answered and I missed it) but can longer 2040 be used, rods/leadscrews replaced with longer ones and a bigger heatbed put in to increase the printable volume to something like a CR10?

Yes, that should work fine, you would just need to fine the correct measurements. If you make it too big, you may need to move to bigger 10mm rods if the 8mm aren't rigid enough.

Hello, I'm planning this build for the winter. Could anyone say how tall is the complete assembly? I would try to place it in a library.
Thanks.

Just printed this out and ordered the parts off the BOM. On point! Thanks for the rigid and sturdy frame! Looking at the old acrylic frame and it is so easy to bend and move. This thing is a TANK.

Is it really necessary to have 4_Bottom_Corner_Plate and 2_Bottom_Tee_Plate? Are the cornes not enough?

Those plates help with aligning parts. They add a little rigidity too. The Tees help align the vertical towers

Hi!

Can I use such an aluminium plate as heatbead holder?
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Anodized-Aluminum/dp/B071HTGVZG

Or will I get problems with the Y tensioner or the motor?

Hello,

How many of each parts i have to print?

Thank you

If you read the files names. The lead number is the quantity you need. So...
'1_LCD_Base_Left.stl' you need 1 copy.
'3_Y_Rod_Holder.stl' you would print 3 copies.

do you still have full use of the bed as in you had on the regular Anet A8? cuz I just built this upgrade, everything is put togheter as in the Guide and i cant see anything different on ur pictures from my build. but the bearings on the bed hit the frame before the nossle can get enough far back to get full use of the bed (or front if I shift the arms back a bit)

Yes, I still have full access. Is your bed being stopped by the bed leveling screws hitting the rail mounts? I initially had to level the bed higher to clear the mounts, eventually I changed to shorter screws. Need to update the bom

dissregard what I said, Im an idiot. I fixed the problem I created xD

great and easy guide to follow (if ur not stupid as me :P )

thx for fast respons and that you were willing to help. I might get shorter screws aswell :)

My bearing blocks hit the frame as well. i will take a picture after i get dont printing.

On the BOM you list "corner brackets" but misumi calls them "reversal brackets". Corner brackets are something else that go inline with the extrusions instead of inside the joint.
Is there a reason you used single height brackets instead of double height brackets?

Thank you for the insight. The reason I used single height brackets was because I had them already. I made this frame almost entirely out of parts I already had leftover from an earlier project. So there may be some parts that are better suited, but I didn't want to publish instructions for parts I hadn't actually used.

Sounds like a good reason to me!
I doubt the double height brackets would make much of a difference and it's fewer blind nuts to try to get screws into!!

looking for a dual mosfet holder for 2 different mosfets? i made one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2546080

Anet AM8 Dual Mosfet Holder

Can this be made with 4040 with a single channel extrusion?

No, or at least not without heavy modifications for each part, because they are designed assuming 2 slots for inserts and screws. Parts will also be more stable with these 2 fixation points instead of one.

I keep looking at this project an wondering if I could pull off upcycling some old computer case frames into something similar.

Hi, is PLA strong enough for the printed parts or would ABS be required?

PLA is definitely strong enough if it isn't exposed to a lot of heat. Most of my parts are still PLA and even in an enclosure they are doing OK, but I should swap them out in the future. PLA was cheaper to prototype with and I haven't gotten around to changing them yet

PLA can do the job if the printer isnt inside an enclosure :D

I used PLA at 50% infill and seems to be working just fine.

FYI Misumi has slightly changed their site URLs and the ones in the BOM don't launch to the proper pages.

The named supplier does NOT deal with Australians! Has any Aussie found a supplier of these:-

340mm 2040 Misumi HFS5-2040-340 qty 2
313mm 2040 Misumi HFS5-2040-313 qty 3
440mm 2040 Misumi HFS5-2040-440 qty 2

EDIT: Found RATRIG do a full A8 kit screws,nuts etc us$68 plus shipping ( us$38 to Au) can also get a painted black kit for a few $$$ more

Are these the exact measurements of what you need to build this. Thanks

Hi I ordered from the supplier on the BOM using a virtual post box in the US. Australia Post provide these

Hi antgeo, how much did this end up costing you to get them in Aus?

Hi alexcvnguyen, $125.71AUD was the total cost

That's amazing! Thanks for your reply mate, much appreciated :)

You could use Bosch Rexroth type extrusions, 20x40mm, if they're available where you're at. They'll fit the square nuts and are overall mostly the same dimensions, at least with the specifics this build asks about.

Just asking to be sure it's a good idea before I try to design it: do you think it would be possible to have the upper Z smooth rod holders also hold the leadscrews ? Using an adequately positioned ball bearing to make sure it doesn't restrain rotation, but still make sure that the Z leadscrews don't wobble.

And obviously I just need to post the question to find the answer myself: this has already been done https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2486553 (which according to the description is a remix of thaug29's design but I can't find the original part). So thanks!
I will print the AM8 soon.

AM8 Parts

Anyone having issues with the z posts seeming to far back when set at 127mm per the manual? Mine is exactly 127mm using one of the guides out there and when the extruder primes itself before a print, it misses the left front corner by about 10mm. I am tempted to move the z axis forward 10mm to compensate but not sure why I am getting different results than others if the 127mm measurement works. Comments/ thoughts would be appreciated.

I changed in the configution.h of SkyNet the setting #define Y_MIN_POS from -10 to 0 and all was well again; #define Y_MIN_POS 0

I am thinking of remixing the rod+Y end-stop block a bit, so the micro switch is a bit more to the back. This way the Y axis has a few millimeters more travel before hitting the switch, as there is still about 10 mm+ room between the extrusion and the bearing blocks.

Thanks, I was just looking at changing that exact configuration. I was planning to manually check the travel of the bed to make sure I don't lose 10mm in the process but I did notice that when XY are homed the position is the -33 and -10 per those settings. Just want to make sure I can move the bed a full 220mm. Otherwise, I may also try to do the rod_y end stop remix but it is a PITA to take everything apart again to swap that out. I already did that once because the bed thumbscrews were hitting the y end stop so I reprinted with the rounded side facing out. I will update once I have a chance to check this out. In some ways, good to see that I am not the only one having the issue.

So here is my assessment. You can't move the Y endstop switch back because the bed will hit the Y stepper motor if you do. You can only move it back maybe 1mm.

Mine bed is off by about 6mm currently with the -10 setting (i.e. when Y is homed, I am 4mm away from the edge of the bed).

Still considering options at this point.

OK, I think my plan of attack will be to reprint the y end stop with the switch back 1mm, just to get that little bit of extra travel for the y axis. I currently have very close and maybe a hair less that 220mm. Then I may move the Z extrusions back 3mm. This should put the extruder at the edge of the bed.

The other option I was considering was to drop the stepper motor a mm or two so the cross members of the bed mount clear the top of the stepper motor which would give me much more travel but would put the y axis belt on a bit of an angle which would not be good. I guess you could also raise the bed crossmember by putting in a spacer but that would likely reduce the 240mm Z axis height and would also put the stepper motor at an angle to where the belt anchors on the heated bed frame.

If I were to build over, I would have used 350mm or 360mm extrusions instead of 340mm. The acrylic on the Anet is 7.5mm thick so we lost about 25mm of travel / y rod with the AM8 design (20mm extrusion - 7.5mm acrylic = 12.5mm per side or 25mm). If you use a 350mm, instead of the y rod going flush with the front/rear extrusions, it would be inset 5mm on each side which would yield another 10mm of travel.

I will update once I make the tweaks to get the best out of my current setup.

Indeed, with 360mm you could have made remixed Y axis end stops which only clamp 10mm (so same size block with only 10mm of clamp on it) of the rod instead of the full 20mm. This way it will still look nice (as designed) but you have more travel. However for me the last amount of travel on the Y axis is not really important at this point so I will forget about this issue. I am thinking about building a Hypercube Evo and will use / dedicate the AM8 as my 'small' printer.

I will probably make due as well. Although new extrusions are only about $7 so I am tempted to go with 350mm to keep the size still as compact as possible but allow for some additional travel. I can always do this later if needed.

For now, I moved the Z axis towards the back 3mm and updated my settings in Marlin as follows...

define X_MIN_POS -31 // Changed from -33
define Y_MIN_POS 0 // Changed from -10
define Z_MIN_POS 0

I can now travel the full 220mm with just a hair of room. The stock AM8 setup allows for what I calculate as exactly 220mm. 340mm extrusion - 105mm distance end from end for the bed bearings - 15mm for the Y endstop switch = 220mm of exact travel. You can get a mm of extra travel by moving the Y endstop switch back 1mm but that's it short of using longer extrusions. 350mm would be good.

RatRig is also offering a bundle, minus the 3D printed parts: http://www.ratrig.com/cnc-and-3d-printing.html

(not affiliated, just purchased it and though I'd spread the news)

I just found out that Dold is now offering a Bundle: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Anet-A8
(I've bought my parts there before the bundle existed and ordered the parts seperatly so I can't say anything about it).

Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated in any way.

I also ordered mine from Mr. Dold but did not see this package. This is only the rails
BTW I used the more round I-type extrusion with 5mm

Is this the frame kit with nuts that is needed to build the frame it seems to be in German so I can't understand what it is and no picture thanks

Sorry for answering this late, but I got no kind of notification.

You can switch languages to english, (though it does not help much as the product description is still german.)
The kit has no nuts included as far as I can see.

Has anyone used corner fitting like this? Will they increase stability?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282561267266?var=581726241774

Thanks

Yes, I have used similar fittings with four screws (see my build photographs) and find them more stable. One cannot use then in all corners though.

can i convert my ctc prusa i3(geetech prusa i3 clone) to this frame?

Im looking to do the same, it should be possible, the only major difference is that the A8 is wider than the ctc i3.
If you install the top profile on top of ze Z beams in stead of in between them, you're able to adjust the width of the entire frame, without having to cut any of the beams(It will just look a little weird). According to some quick measurements it SHOULD fit. It is however possible that there will not be enough clearance for the build platform.
If it there isn't its possible to adjust the width of the X-carriage(the rods go pretty deep into the printed parts). if the guide rods still arent long enough you can order longer ones to replace the original ones.
Which you could also do in the first place and just stick with the design as it is.

I've just ordered the parts and if you're still planning to do the upgrade i'd like to share the results with you.

Hi - I've been building my AM8 today, however, when I got to the stage where I have to install the z axis extrusion.. the right leans over to the side. It only does it when I try to install the tee bracket. Would you be able to help? Thanks in advance

Sounds like the T-bracket exerts some force. While diagnosis is tricky my guess is that i) everything is ok, a little bit of stress/strain is normal and it will straighten out if you put the top extrusion on, or ii) the holes in the print are maybe a bit smaller / asymmetric and you can drill them to the correct size or iii) your printed T-bracket has not exactly the right dimensions, which would mean that you have to check also your other printed parts and potentially calibrate your printer and print once more.

I have ordered all parts and printed all things waiting for the delivery of the profiles. I have a question, I read about changing the acceleration and jerk settings to get better print quality in your PDF with the AM8 frane, however you do not mention your current 'winning' settings on Skynet of Marlin. Can you please share your settings / changes ?

Many thanks for your time sharing this project with us!

I would also be interested in the 'official' settings by pheneeny. My experience is that the default settings of jerk = 20 is a bit much and I reduce it to 10 - 15 in Skynet/Marlin to reduce ringing, which is otherwise clearly visible on the X face of a calibration cube (ringing depends also on how hot and liquid your PLA is etc). My acceleration is 300 - 400, and I do not find print speeds between 30 and 60 mm/s to affect quality so much (jerk and acceleration are more (?) important), because Cura 2.6 prints the outer perimeter slower anyway.

To summarise, for best print quality I use:
acceleration = 300 or 400
jerkx = 15
jerky = 10
print speed = 30 mm/s
layer height in multiples of 0.04, e.g. 0.08 for extremely nice quality.

All in all the new, sturdy frame has improved the quality, with the above setting quality is more or less the same as a well tuned Ultimaker 2 which I can compare prints with.

I did some testing with xyz calibration cubes and different settings. The winning settings at this moment;

Less / almost no ringing;
acc = 1000
jerkx = 15
jerky = 10

Faster printing more ringing around X and Y;
acc = 1000
jerkx = 20
jerky = 20

I needed to change acc to 1000 or else all the corners on the cube did bulge a bit, changing fixed this problem. On the cube I could not see much change in quality and printing time for changing to 60mm/s (I did change the maximum allowed speed in the firmware).

My printer is alive! I will post some pictures on a 'make' very soon.

Did you try to change the default speed in the slicer from 40mm/s to for example 60mm/s ?

I am currently printing a xyz-calibration cube with the current jerk/acc settings and will then change them to you settings to print another one to see the difference.

Thanks for your settings. I am in the progress of fitting the AM8 together, the frame is constructed and perfectly angle and sturdy. The Anet is just an empty frame at this point. However the carriage left Z-axis LM8LUU bearing broke down during measuring and aligning, some balls fell out and I have to wait for the new bearings to arrive. I am ordering better quality Misumi bearings for the whole printer which hopefully will arrive at Tuesday. I am using Igus Drylin at the moment for the X and Y axis, and I am think about swapping them for Misumi ball bearings as well, as the Igus bearings have some play and are not as smooth as I thought they would be. TBC!

Is there a particular reason why you use the more expensive hfs profiles instead of the the cheaper nfs?

I'm not familiar with NFS profiles, but I had HFS on hand when I designed and built this.

Why is the position of the Z-column restricted to 127mm from the back? It seems to me that absolutely anywhere along the y-axis would be find as long as both columns are at the same level.

The bed is limited in distance it can move by when the bearings hit the rod holders. At 127, the x axis is placed at a point where the hotend can cover the entire bed. Too far forward or backward would cause the hotend to not be able to reach parts of the bed.

pheneeny...see my post above, I had to move mine to 123mm to cover the full bed given the Y axis only covers 220mm of travel, I needed the Y axes to be at Y0 when homed.

Comments deleted.

You now could get these parts really really cheap in the Banggood Anniversary Sale with up to 11% Discount:

https://goo.gl/9W9CmA

Hi all,
In term of space are the external dimensions still similar to the original Anet A8 or is bigger?

Yes the dimensions are nearly the same, maybe the width is reduced by a few cm, and the length is increased by several cm due to the display mounted in the front. It is much easier to move around, but I still have to level the bed after moving it.

Thanks, this is exacly what I wanted to know since I need to place the printer in a tight space.
Also I move it often so I hoped that the alu frame was enough to keep it leveled... too bad. I guess I'll fix the printer on a plywood baseplate or something similar

I just re-tightned all screws as they got a bit loose during the first prints, and maybe when moving carefully one will not have to re-level the bed. Maybe others can share their experience. I guess fixing the printer one a wooden plate is the cheapest way to get it stable. On facebook there even was a post of an A8 print farm with several fixed printers which seem to print reliably.

Thightening the screws after the first few prints did the trick, now the heatbed stayed aligned after I carefully moved it.

I'm wondering one thing, why use v-slot rail and not use v-slot roller and still use the linear bearing and rods ( that are much more giving than the rails ) ??

This doesn't use V-Slot, this uses T-Slot extrusions. The T-Slots are cheaper and can be cut to size when ordered.

Oh oups my mistake ! Thanks for the precision. Do you think V-slot with V-roller would help much, or the frame as you designed it took care of 99% of the problem ?

V slot would probably be better than the stock rails and bearings of the A8, but I don't know if you would see a big difference.

Just finished my AM8, great design, thanks.

Has anyone tried higher acceleration values in Marlin/Skynet as mentioned in the build guide? With what results?
What are your printing speeds?

Regarding the discussion of using longer extrusions on the side: In Skynet/Marlin pause works fine without collision, and no build volume is lost by building according to the exact instructions by pheneeny (I tested pausing and build volume). Therefore I think building according to the instructions by pheneeny is good and gives you a compact machine (with Marlin/Skynet). I also would suggest to use Skynet / Marlin, because the stock firmware did not recognise when my heating cartridge came loose. I already had the smell of burnt plastic, when luckily I noticed it and could switch off the printer.
I have no collisions between the wing nut of the heatbed and the rod holder in the front and left back (if rod holders /clamps are correctly oriented, different from pheneeny's instrucftions). There is a collision in the back right with the y-endstop clamp, and I think the existing remix of this part might be better than the original - will have to try the remix myself, until then one wing nut is not used.

After a few prints I can confirm previous posts: printing at 100 mm/s gives me pretty bad ringing, printing at 50 mm/s is ok, but ringing is still a bit worse than printing at 30 mm/s with the old frame. One thing I notice is that the threaded rods for z movement vibrate a lot which may be a problem. Now I put a bearing holder without bearing but some some tape there to dampen any movement and will see whether things improve. Putting a bearing on the top of the z rods will also help against vibration, but may also introduce problems if the threaded ro is not perfectly straight.

Ringing is not my problem. After upgrading to the AM8 frame I have extreme wobble in X and Y direction. Can't figure out what the problem is. :(

From your renderings, it shows you have modeled the complete assembly.
Can you post step files of the completed assembly? It would help to make measurements
and allowances for those that cannot get the exact same parts or lengths locally, such as myself.

I came into a problem, the carriage crashes into the front of the frame when you pause.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmbvSPt3DOo&lc=z23phdjwjqa2dhevmacdp4355h03ylth12nnc4r3xi1w03c010c

doing this in repetier solves it
SDCard.cpp there are these lines:

else

Printer::moveToReal(Printer::xMin, Printer::yMin + Printer::yLength, IGNORE_COORDINATE, IGNORE_COORDINATE, Printer::maxFeedrate[X_AXIS]);

endif

change to
Printer::yMin + Printer::yLength - 25

You will have to ask someone familiar with marlin if you are on that.

have a look at his' design: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2462104
he uses 364mm extrusions to prevent this from happening.

Anet AM8 Variant
by ranita

See my posts above. You can just barely get 220mm of travel with the 340mm extrusions but it takes some tweaking with moving the Z extrusions and updating firmware settings in Marlin.

Comments deleted.

I must have done something wrong on the website, because I'm looking again, and the prices are pretty close.

Hi, i have a doubt.
Would this model work with normal T nuts and normal 2040 extrusions?

The Square nut listed do not work with this profiles. They are too thick; ~4.0mm and the profile is less than 4.0mm. How did you use those m5x.8 nut with those Frame profiles????

Yes I bought them to match the BOM and found they are too thick like you say. I had to order some tee nuts instead at £25 (I didn't fancy grinding 2 edges off of 110 nuts to make them fit). You might need to update the BOM to stop other people wasting money on nuts that dont work. I wonder how is everyone else building it without this problem?! Great otherwise though, so thank you Pheneeny :)

Can't agree more. The same happend to me.
Please update the BOM. Appreciate.

The square nuts can't slide into the slots through the end of the extrusion?

The BOM calls for square nuts, but what you've linked to are DIN 562 (thin) square nuts. Standard square nuts are too thick.

what is the measurement from back of the frame to where the x/z tower location?

read the build guide, everything is there

Hello everyone!

Can someone please tell me whether there are these Corner Bracket´s HBLFSNF5 also in Germany to buy?!?!?
Would be grateful for any help.

Best regards,
Christian

have a look at dold mechatronik. I ordered my 2040 and nuts and brackets etc. And finished my raw frame yesterday. M5x10 screws were too long for some parts beause the metal corner brackets are thinner than the printed ones. Use a washer or M5x8 screws. Also I had to enlarge the hole of the 20x20 L-brakets in order to fit both screws at once

If you still have functional 3d printer, you can print corner brackets your self, you can find some designs, or you can design them your self.
That is what I did.

For the corners is doesn't matter any that fit into 20X20 extrusions. The problem is the where uprights, connect to the bottom frame I used these though I had to file off the lugs where they stopped the bracket laying flush
https://www.banggood.com/10pcs-20x20mm-Aluminium-Corner-Joint-Right-Angle-Bracket-Furniture-Fittings-p-1056722.html

or the corners I used these
https://www.banggood.com/10pcs-28x28mm-Aluminium-Alloy-Corner-Joint-Bracket-Furniture-Fittings-p-1107024.html

@ranita and pheneeny

Thank you for your explanation.
Fortunately, I still have left aluminum and will implement your proposal with 364mm.

Very good work.

What is still really missing is how I already wrote, a technical drawing with correct infos for the assembly.

Motors mounting where is the center in the alignment etc.

Will be finished soon (hope)

Thanks again to both of you.

can anybody share endstops to buy ?

If you looking for end stop switches, you can get them on Amazon or Aliexpress.com

Can i upgrade my zonestar to this frame?

Yes, I have made total conversion from Zonestar P802N https://www.thingiverse.com/make:351124

AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8

I've acquired the extrusions and screws, a set of motors and electronics, the Z screws, p/s and printed most of the brackets / braces. Still to do is printing the motor mounts and buying the hot bed, carriage and possibly a dual extruder. My electronics/ps will be mounted into a spare mid-tower pc case so not bothering to print the parts for mounting the boards, pi, mosfets.... I'm not worried about losing a little print volume so long as it isn't ridiculous.

It sounds like some have had trouble with assembling the frame. I guess I probably will too, but that is part of the deal. We get to apply our ingenuity to solve problems as they crop up. Can you imagine trying to integrate this technology 50 years ago?

Does anyone have thoughts specifically on dual extruders (one for printing, one for dissolving infill) and on autolevelling on glass?

I've been looking at a pair these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQISR7E/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_18?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2HOVXAX5GDOG1) but unclear on how the filament is fed. Is the motor and pinch relocated off the hot end carriage?

Auto level - I'd purchased a BL Touch through Amazon and it was either DOA or I busted it while tinkering. I have found that the inductance version does not work well with glass. I'm going to try one last time with bits of foil tape applied to the glass at the test points. Any OTHER ideas to get either variety working well on glass?

And lastly, WTH is with getting that first ratted first layer or three down? If I get past the first few layers my prints seem to come out fine. Good enough for my purposes anyway. But it seems to be a matter of luck and prayer to get past those...

Namedpipes, By not extending the side extrusions, you are not only losing print volume, you are also losing the ability to pause the machine.
You should not have troubles assembling this machine, Pheneeny did a good job at describing the assembly and when it comes to first layer adhesion, no matter how much you pray, it will not be right unless you have the proper distance from bed to nozzle, proper bed preparation as for example for pla, salt water spreaded evenly on the glass while at 60ºc with a damped tissue so when water evaporates while you are spreading, will leave a smooth fine coat of salt behind and believe me there is nothing better than this for pla, of course you can also use blue tape, hair spray, etc. For ABS Kapton tape on glass at 95ºc, PETG on Kapton tape at 70ºc. You must experiment with different nozzle temps, not all machines behave the same.

So now times plaintext

what is now with AM8 with 364mm bed rods and 340mm discussion what is correct can please someone clarify.

We give money out for alu parts loudly list which are also expensive, and in the end it's all wrong and then does not fit together.

What is the nonsense?

Simple question simple answer is the compatibility with original dimensions of A8 manufactured or not.

If not what then.

PS

Yes and please is there still more errors, has someone something like a checklist
I already print all parts of the BOM list time, money to experience postpone “oh, but this is not suitable or this is too high or faulty.”

Fairplay4,
Sorry I created all this confusion,
All I did is replaced the 340mm extrusion listed in the BOM of this printer with 364mm extrusions when I built mine, that way I recovered the 24mm lost in length back to front and enabled ability to pause the machine.
If you assemble it with 340mm, the heat bed will collide with the front.
By using 364mm side extrusions, you bring it to the original anet a8 form and function dimensions.
And for the already printed parts, do not worry, you can still use the same parts.
I hope that Pheneeny analyze my change and approves for his machine.
Again I greatly thanks him for his contribution, His design allowed me to have a good superior working printer.

I am currently building the AM8 and have problems with components and correct placement there is no template for correct placement of components or info only for Z Tower.

Yes I have already printed the good 127mm template for Z (THX for this), but there is no information for anything else.

This is exhausting, not all of us are 100% technically so gifted or have learned technical work.

Would really help to publish a drawing template or similar things for bilding.

The build instructions include exact measurements when needed. Most other things either flush mount to other parts, or, the exact positioning isn't all that important, the important thing is that it is even and level with a complementary peice on the other side.

The only part where you need dimensions are the ones related to 127mm when using 340mm long extrusion or 139mm with 364mm extrusions. all other assemblies of the extrusions are end to flats at 100% contact. your L-brackets from MIsumi and the printed parts will do that for you.

Just finished upgrading to the AM8, but my right rear bed screw hits the y bar holder. The left one barely clears it.

Yes, this is an issue. You can either raise the Z endstop slightly and level the bed higher off the carriage, or swap in shorter bed screws. I did the former for a while, eventually I did the latter.

You can also make sure the rounded side of the rod holder is facing towards the bed nuts and change from the stock ones to a smaller round nut. You should clear. There is also a remixed Y endstop rod holder that puts the round side outward to address this.

there is only a frame?

That's right, you use all of the other parts from and Anet A8 to make a complete printer.

Do you know of another place to get the M5x.8 square nuts? I have everything for this upgrade on the way, but the website provided in the BOM is out of the square nuts and I'm having trouble finding them anywhere else

You can find them here, https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screw-square-nuts/=18oskk8 for either $8.00 for 100 or if you want stainless steel they are $10.00 for 100. You will have to pay shipping. You can also get them from Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Stainless-Steel-Square-Nuts/dp/B018JQ9160/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501215680&sr=8-2&keywords=m5+square+nut.

Now that you mention it, I did see the nuts you listed on Amazon as I was searching around, I was just scared because I couldn't tell if they were the right thread size so I didn't know if I should order them or not. I will probably go with mcmaster anyway. Thanks for all the help.

where are you located?

Do I actually need 110 of them as listed in the BOM, or will I be fine just ordering 100 nuts?

Thank you, PapaJohn88! I will check out the links your provided. I am in USA

I'm a little concerned about the 24mm lost to the thicker frame (20mm vs. 8mm) and think that making the Y-extrusions longer is the wrong way to go. The smooth rods will then only go 8mm into the holders rather than all the way through, doing little to improve stability. Especially because pressure and stability in the holders extend from the center. At least the screw should be moved towards the edge.

As I haven't yet built the thing, I can only measure the parts and it looks like the print bed itself will pretty much clear the holders. The problem is the leveling screws extending down.

Instead of extending the Y-extrusions, I propose inserting spacers between the 4 bearings and the print bed plus a belt clamp to replace the original brackets. Extend the Z-extrusions by the same distance and simply elevate the whole thing a little. Build volume remains the same.

Any thoughts or comments on that approach?

Dansker61,
I'm just about to finish an AM8 with 364mm bed rods. I made new smooth rod holders for the front with internal stops to limit the movement of the rod and left the back smooth holders as the original AM8 to allow the rods to be pushed back in case you need to remove the bed. I left the screws holes and slot on all rod holders to allow compression of the rods but there is no need for the screw in the front ones. The smooth rods do not add stability to the machine, as long as the holders do not allow movement up or down or sideways, it should be fine, the rods can even move back and forth and it wouldn't matter since the movement of the bed is dependent of the belt. Stability is achieved with the extrusions. I'm in the process of building another machine that will replace the carriage rods with 2020 extrusion as well.
I will publish all my new additions later today.

Really interested in your idea with replacing the rods with 2020 extrusions, have looked into it myself.

Any updates on the progress, or links to check out?

I was able to finally publish my new AM8 Printer with the longer side extrusions. See https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2462104

Anet AM8 Variant
by ranita

Just finished testing the printer after using 364mm side extrusions instead of the 340mm and works fine. I will try to post today along with the new smooth holders a made.

After I get my AM8 printing as well as the original, I am looking at using the extrusions to place both x rods and z rods. Hope it will work. Obviously I will need to move the PSU and control board off their current locations. When I ordered my extrusions I also increased the size of the Z and X ones so that it would accommodate a 200x300x300 build volume. Looks great just need to get it tweeked in.

Is there any reason why the m5 screws are button heads? I'm in Australia, and sourcing 100+ seems to be quite expensive, local shop stocks them for like $0.22AUD+ a piece.
Is there anything stopping me from using something like this - https://www.bolt.com.au/m5-10-pan-phillips-metal-threads-zinc-plated-p-16990.html

Thanks, appreciate the work you've put in mate.

For me, in EU, socket bolts were the same of even cheaper than button, so I got them all socket. However, it makes assembling the corner brackets a bit tricky, since heads will likely touch each other.

Good to know, thanks mate!

They are button heads because I already had them when I started designing :). The pan heads should work OK as long as the head doesn't have a larger diameter than the button heads from the build (the button heads recess into a couple of printed pieces). It is harder to torque a phillips head down than it is a hex head though.

Awesome, yeah I didn't even think about which would torque better. Thanks heaps for the reply!

Hi there!
I'm halfway done with the assembly, but I have a question.
How far from the bottom face of the 340 extrusions should I place the 440 extrusions?
Thanks!

The bottom of the 440 should be flush with the bottom of the 340. The T brackets help align the faces.

Ok, I didn't speak my mind properly :/
I meant how far from the front face of the frame (along Y)
Thanks!!

Anyone have pics of Raspberry Pi attached to the 2040 frame and what print you used?

AM8 Modifications and Additions
by thaug29

I saw that but wasn't sure how it went together. There are 3 Pi related parts but no pictures of how it goes together and if you need any special screws.

How many lead screw are needed?
And size of any lead screw?

Sorry bad English

Hi guys i'm from Germany and i'd need some help to source the needed parts for this awesome upgrade!
Could you just let me know which one of the two following aluminium extrusions would be more suitable?

https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Aluminiumprofil-20x40-B-Typ-Nut-6-Standardlaengen-925-EUR-m
or
https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Aluminiumprofil-20x40-I-Typ-Nut-5-Standardlaengen-875-EUR-m

would be really happy if you could help me out.
Cheers

MatelRight,
All parts are designed to use 5 mm nuts and bolts, including the printed parts for aasembly. so use type nut 5 https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Aluminiumprofil-20x40-I-Typ-Nut-5-Standardlaengen-875-EUR-m
Lead screws to use are 400mm T8 Lead Screw 8mm Thread 2mm Pitch Lead Screw with Brass Nut, 2 needed.

how much filament does it take to print all of these parts ? Would 0.5kg PETG be sufficient ?

About 0.75KG is what I used. Printed with 3 outer shells and 75% infill.

I only have one problem with this frame: when I pause the printing to insert nuts to be embedded, the print bed collides with the front of the frame. After measurements, the space from back to front is about 24 mm shorter than the original. I will either change the side rails from 340mm to 364mm long, or if there is a way to tell the printer to stop at a certain point when pausing? If there is, I would do that, and if this is do-able, does anybody know how to?

Would using the longer 364mm side rails require longer Y axis rods, or would it still allow for the use of the original rods?

I am in the process of conversion so this was a concern for me. Upon further investigation I concluded the following. the original Y guide rods are 380mm total. for AM8 this is produced by having 340mm extrusions and the additional thickness of the two 313mm extrusions (20mmx2), which gives you the original length of the rod when combined (340mm+40mm).

But you are right. the problem is that the thickness of the extrusions are 20mm each compared to the thickness on the A8 acrylic which is 8mm each. thus on the A8 the max distance between the front and back is 364mm (380mm-(8mm*2)). if you use the 340mm extrusions you will loose 24mm of Z distance. or use 364mm and keep the original Z print distance.

Update: made an experimental part that raises the Y rod holder so the linear bearings don't smash into the front of the frame. this is for those that do not want to use the 364mm extrusions. please provide feedback!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2446550

AM8 Y rod holder modifed
by JR2d

If you are speaking about the stock A8 it's all about the screws that hold the smooth rods in place. On the front bracket you can find those two pieces that prevents the smooth rods from coming out. The screws that hold these pieces are screwed facing on the inside of the frinter, you just need to reverse them. If you're speaking of the AM8 instead... well, then I don't know :/

Thanks for your kind reply but I'm talking about the AM8 of which I'm building a third one with the longer side extrusions 2040 and have all rails for a fourth one to sale. Nobody gave me an answer on how to change the pause distance.

Thanks

swdave:
Use the one in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2283772 (am8 metal frame additions). You will also find covers for the end of the 2040.

AM8 Modifications and Additions
by thaug29

Can anyone give me a link or specs for the proper t-slot cover? Looking on ebay everything says 80/20 so I'm afraid it's different.

Absolutly great job on this, I love it. Fully converted over. One thing i'd like to ask. could the y tensioner mount have the holes for the fork (the u shaped part that holds the pulley) be placed closer to the frame. 2.5 mm to 3 mm lower (closer to the frame). I run a toothed idler and at the very end of the Y axis stroke it causes a little bit of a bind.

hello,

I would like know if this new build is more stable than the original adjustment at level to bed.

You are great to have make that.

Thank you so much

André

This eliminates the issue of the acrylic frame shifting and flexing, causing the bed to go out of alignment.

Hi,
are the X Y or Z sizes changed with this design at all? also is there room in this design to make them a little larger/longer? and possibly a little bigger bed?

its just i built an enclosure for my anet a8 i made it spacious so its easier to work with but i can go a lottle bigger if needed

any plans for a filament spool mount ?

this is a great design from what i can see better than the anet a8 acrylic frame thats for sure and i prefer the lcd not on the top of the printer too :)

Print volume is the same in the X and Y dimensions, Z is reduced by about 5mm. The distance the head can actually move in the X direction is a little smaller too. Increasing the print area would require longer rods than what the Anet comes with.

I have an enclosure for mine as well. I'm still using the stock Anet spool holder with a printed roll holder on the threaded rod, just sitting on the top of the enclosure. The enclosure is also why I put the LCD on the front.

thanks for the response much asppreciated. im going to go e3d v6 at some point so going to need to decide routing for that andwhere to put the motor but im sure it wont be too hard to make a bracket to fit :)

Totalguy
check https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2283772, there you will find what you need.
The z run is actually reduced by 24mm and if you ever pause your machine during printing, the printing bed will collide with the front of the frame. If you measure the Rod clearance between the two original acrylic plates, it will be aprox. 365mm. With this frame, the clearance is 341mm. I will replace the two 340mm side rails with 364mm to avoid collision. I'm always making prototypes that require embedded nuts and I have to pause the printing process very often. If you are not planning to never pause printing, then use the 340mm rails.
Is a beautiful machine, all my problems went away and I've been printing at 80mm/s instead of a max of 50 in the past.
Check my carriage level indicator (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2409837), it will save you a lot of time to bring the carriage to proper heights.

AM8 Modifications and Additions
by thaug29
carriage Height Indicator for Anet A8 and AM8
by ranita

Thanks for the advice, i guess this can be done without altering the metal frame sizes ?

Yes,
Instead of the 340mm extrusions, use 364mm

I put a V6 on and kept it as a direct drive. A link to the mount I made is in the overview

Is there a way to fine adjust / tune the Z endstop? This solution looks as bad as the original Z endstop mount from Anet

No, it's the same as the original. It's something that you should only have to do once, the pain of it didn't bother me much.

I did one for the Y axis. For the X axis I remote mounted the endstop switch and connected to the ones you mentioned by three wires. I can provide photos later this evening. Z is not a problem for me because I am using a bed leveling sensor so the Z endstop is not needed.

I already have yours for the Y endstop in my collection ;)
Im not planning to use a Sensor, I prefer manual leveling :)

I like it. But while you are at it, have you considered how to make the printer say 300x300x340 or so? What would that entail in the way of software changes, different settings, etc? You have done an amazing job here.. just trying to tap into your knowledge and see what is possible. When I take this project on, I want to use larger diameter ACME screws, larger rods, etc so why not make it larger. What do you think?

I would be hesitant to create an i3 style printer that big. The problem with the i3 is the moving bed gets exponentially heavier as the size increases. A bed that big will need to be thicker to maintain flatness and be very heavy, making it difficult to print with any decent speed without artifacts. If you want to build a printer that large, you should go with a CoreXY design that only moves the bed in the Z direction. I have a D-Bot that is 300x300, and it works very well.

Could I use M5X12 Button Head Socket Cap Screw Steel? The M5X10 are sold out and a little pricey off Amazon.

http://www.mrmetric.com/M11411

I think you may have issues with the screws bottoming out on the profile before applying enough pressure on the parts.

Will Openbuilds V-Slot Linear Rail 2040mm from ooznest.co.uk will fit ?
Here are the dimensions: http://ooznest.co.uk/image/data/vslot/designs/DESIGN-V-SLOT-2040.jpg
Link: http://ooznest.co.uk/V-Slot-Linear-Rail-2040mm

Thank you

V-Slot will work OK, there are a couple of printed parts that have t-slot ridges on them to help align them, and those won't be effective in a V-Slot.

It would be so nice, if the smooth rods could be upgraded to 12mm together with this upgrade - in order to avoid bent rods (it requires more force to bend a 12mm rod than an 8mm :-)). Unfortunately there are no X-idlers that supports 12mm rods - maybe that could be a subjet for a remix (as this requires some other elements of the design to be changed as well).

This sounds like a stupid question, but how can i buy from misumi? It seems they sell to companies only

Misumi USA allows personal account, no shipping to Europe. Misumi Europe requires registered business and/or proof.

If you do not apply for "terms" (another word for credit line) you can supply whatever DBA name you choose, like "LEO Gas and Oil".

So which account type should i choose?

EDIT: i'm from europe.

Ah, I chose individual.

That's not necessarily a problem. The important thing is the smooth rods are parralel with each other. With the lead screws on flex coupler and unconstrained on the top, they are allowed to wobble, with the nut being the pivot point. This should prevent any bends in the lead screw from affecting the print, although severe bends will still cause problems.

It's a problem because Z axis don't works :(

Can you be more specific on what problem you are having?

Can you manually turn the lead screws, and if so, do they both turn with roughly equal force? If that is the case, the issue is likely with your controller board, wiring, or motor. If the right lead screw is a lot harder to turn, the problem is something mechanical.

if I manual turn the rod and go to the top, all motors works fine, but at the bottom the unparallel rod create many issues

Is this design better than a stainless steel prusa-like frame? I don't know what kind of frame to choose.

If you build this frame well and square, the biggest weakness of your new printer will be the old components from the A8. Really any metal frame will be much better than the acrylic. I'd go with whatever you can source for cheaper.

this is way cheaper than the stainless steel version, € 50 against € 150

I'm getting ready to buy an Anet A8. I have a friend who can print these parts for me. Would you recommend me building this frame before even assembling the Anet when I get it in the mail? Or should I build it the way it comes and take it apart to get familiar with the parts?

Hi,
If you already plan to make this mod before you buy the printer then I would recommend you to have a look on other steel frame based printers at this price range like Tevo Tarantula for example. The difference between the price of an A8 and a Tarantula is ~50$ which is wery colse to the estimated price of this (btw awesome) mod. Just to make things clear I'm a proud and happy owner of an Anet A8 and I recommend this printer for starting with 3d printing but just as many other users here finally I realized that I need a stonger frame and I don't want to print braces so I'll make an upgrade similar to this one.

if you are able to get the materials ready, I would say go ahead with a direct swap to AM8. The AM8 is much more sturdier and improved my print speeds and quality a lot.

how do i center my noozle in hotbed????? also change the parking position.............is there a video ,link ??

I have used reptier-host to adjust, program flash-rom for new centre point.

ok but the option configure eepromm is not highlighted.....seems not active

Pheneeny quick question, did you modify the square nuts? I ordered all parts from the BOM and the square nuts dont fit in the channels of the aluminum. Any thoughts?

The square nuts will only fit if they are slid in from the cut end of the extrusion, you cannot fit them in through the top of the slot. It's annoying, but they are cheaper than the drop in hammer nuts. It is useful to have some drop in nuts on hand, just in case you forget to add a square nut before assembly makes the end of the extrusion inaccessible. I bought these and they work well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ZXUSY0/

I am an idjit my friend. Just went over my purchases and noticed that i ordered nuts from a different site. Just placed the order for the ones on the list tonight. I did order the t slot nuts as i figured these would work after some alteration to the pieces i printed but hoping the nuts i just ordered (the right ones) will be the solution. My fault. Really excited to build this as i ordered 2 frames (all black frame and a silver frame). Been at a standstill for a week now cause of my mishap.

The T-Slot nuts should work everywhere the square nuts are used. They are a better choice, the square nuts are only used because they are cheaper. Good luck on your builds!

you're the legend, i've been looking to ditch my anet a8 acrylic frame as quickly as possible, i'm thinking of starting a 3d hubs account and a sturdier frame will help with better prints alot

one more thing, looking at the models, i suppose these would work with other types of extrusions such as v-slot or some other that i can get hold of here in britain as long as they are 20*40, could you confirm this ?

A few of the printed parts have slots on them that are supposed to hold the part in the T-Slot. These may not fit correctly on other T-Slot profiles, and probably won't fit correctly on the V-Slot either.

I have an Anet A8 that is working pretty good at the moment after upgrades and I need a second printer.
I will probably order an A8 new kit and use it for the metal frame.

Moving the display to the front appears that the ribbon cable is too short to route it into the electronics box properly. Has anyone found a longer cable or an extension?

If you are using the standard AM8 controller mount, it's a tight fit but will work if you lower the board mount as low as possible on the extension.

It will reach but I have this great electronics box that you guys designed and I'd like to be able to put the lid on it lol

The original flat cable (or cables with the a6 screen) is indeed much to short when using my electronics box. What i did in my own build was buy 10 strand flex cable (1meter) and 2 connectors. Pressed the connectors on the cable in the same position as the original cable. And that was it. longer cable to connect the screen and route the cable nicely next to the aluminum frame.

As for where i got the cable and connectors, i got them from a local webshop in my country. But i would suggest a local electronics hobby shop or search online for a webshop that has 10 strand flat cable and 10 pin connectors. That way you can make the cable as long as you want.

Looks like someone has remixed he rear right Y clip to accommodate thumbscrew leveling. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2374305

AM8 Y-Rod Endstop
by cmccr88

The new MK42 heatbed is available in Orballo Printing store

https://orballoprinting.com/en/home/161-mk42.html

can someone help me find where to get the parts in canada?

I got mine from mitusmi. it was 40$ for shipping and $40 for the parts, give or take. Ended up being a little over 100$CN and I didnt have to pay duty as Mitsumi pays that if you follow their instructions on their website for us northerners. I got the screws from chine via eBay

is there anything for the threaded z axis screw for the wwoble thing

The design should be able to tolerate a little lead screw wobble. The flex coupler on the bottom and the un-constrained top of the lead screw means it should move with the nut as the pivot point, allowing the rails to hold the axis steady. If you constrain the ends of the lead screw, any bends in it will be forces onto what it's carrying.

i m waiting for the ABS parts the chassis is almost ready

Just wanted to say thanks to the creator Pheneeny. He's put a lot of time and effort into the entire project and given all A8 owners a huge head start for upgrading or remixing. I've never given monetary tips up to now, but for this one, with all it's detail, etc. a tip was warranted no matter how big/small. Wish I could give more, but wanted you to know I appreciate the work you did for us all.

Thank you for the kind words! I'm happy this helped you out!

Can anyone please share the cable chains they are using with this frame? I like the ones I have on my stock frame but obviously the end that connects to the old frame will not attach to the AM8.

I'll upload the STL for my Y chain attachment bracket this evening.

I've got a HFS5-2020-271 bar going across the bottom of the printer frame, connecting the base of the two Z "towers" together for a little bit of extra rigidity. My bracket attaches to that piece.

For the rest of the chain and the H plate attachment, I'm using this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054214

Anet A8 Y-Cable Chain underbed extended

I am using this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054214 under the bed for the Y axis. I had to drill two new holes in it to mount it to a 2020 gross piece I installed in line with the Z axis uprights. You could just extend it to go all the way to the back cross piece. I am using this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1905344 for my X axis I plan on drawing up a new Y axis end piece for the cable chain under the bed to attach to the 2020 or 2040 extrusions. The new end piece is not really necessary you just need to drill two holes to allow m5x10mm screws to be used to attache it to the frame.

Anet A8 Y-Cable Chain underbed extended
improved linear chain to Extruder on Anet A8

I use that same improved linear chain. I printed it out of pla but after extended use it seems like the material wears in the links and they start popping apart. What's your experience been?

No problems so far, I have been using it since February. It was one of the first things I printed on my A8.

Was it done in pla or something more durable like abs or petg?

It was printed in PLA, it is holding up just fine so far. If I ever need to replace it, it will most likely be printed again in PLA,

Comments deleted.

Remember to check play in your old bearings before moving them over to the new AM8 frame. I checked mine now when converting to a new hotend. (E3D V6 original). All the old and original bearings on the X-Carriage was in a awful state.

Did you go with Igus bearings or did you buy replacement ones?
I have had nothing but hell with the Igus, and I am not sure if it is the frame or the bars, I'm guessing the frame as the bars look straight.
I was thinking about going for the $10 Misumi bearings, but that's just so expensive and I already bought Igus. I'm hoping they just magically work as the AM8 will be far straighter.

I did have both Igus and standard (but decent) LM8UUs available, but just used the LM8UUs. In theory Igus should work and definitively reduce the noise level. Seem to be slightly more play in the Igus bearings that I have compared to my new LM8UUs. I have also had some issues with the Igus bearings binding to the straight rods. So the Igus bearings I have are still not in use.

I also could NOT get the drylin bearings to work. If I put even one of them in a travel it would bind up!

I just finished buttoning up my wiring on this upgrade and i'm about an hour into my first test print and I can already tell that it's made a world of difference in my print quality. With the acrylic frame my anet was so loud it could wake the dead but in the new frame she's super quiet. Whoever designed this is a genius!

my y axis seems to not be correct... it does not seem to extent the full 220 for the bed...

If your bed screws are tightened all the way down, they may interfere with the button head screw that holds down the y axis rods. You can avoid this by leveling the bed a little higher on the screws, or by swapping to slightly shorter screws.

the problem is that when the Y end stop is triggered the system things that the bed is at -10. when it should be at zero.

This needs to be adjusted in firmware. If you haven't yet, I recommend installing Skynet firmware. You can adjust the home position in the configuration.h file.

i already figured it out. i kept over looking the set home in the system.

There is a set home in the stock firmware? What is that under? I did see a set origin...is that it? How did you go about setting it?

its when it goes to the front. ill have to look at it more to see the dimensions it moves free when the print i have going finishes.
apart from this issue.. i love the design!. thank you!

What appears to be stopping it? Are you talking about movement to the front or back?

Hello to you today I see this design is very beautiful but you can give yourself all the .stl file to design this beetle is not so?

I'm not quite sure I understand what you are asking. All of the STL files, as well as the design files, are available to download.

i like the frame but is there someone in Europe to print the 3d pieces for me???

You could try to order the parts to be printed, by using the apps included in this site.

I am in the process of creating an AM8 build as well. My alu frame will build using 40x20x3mm rectangular extrusions, because the 2040 extrusions are way to expensive in my country. I have already modified the parts that were designed to fit into the original designs 2040 recess. Will post a remix of the build when done.

For German users only:
Hab noch um genau zu sein mehr als 400 Flachrundkopfschrauben M5x10 Innensechskant A2 Edelstahl ISO 7380-1 in meinem Besitz. Da ich nur 500er Packungen kaufen konnte. Passen alle perfekt außer das man für die beiden Z-Motoren den Remix drucken muss oder mit dem Lötkolben reinpressen. Zu finden sind sie auf Ebay-Kleinanzeigen, "Flachrundkopfschrauben M5x10".

Hast du die Teile eigentlich bei Misumi bestellt? Laut deren Seite beliefern sie ja nur gewerbliche Kunden

bei MD Dold die alumiumteile und bei theo schrauben, die Schrauben. Da man jedoch überall nur in 500er Mengen kaufen kann, will ich den Rest nun loswerden

I would like to use 350mm lead screws due to availability... Can i just lengthen the extrusions and smooth rods by 5mm?

I increased the extrusions on my z and my y axis so that I would be able to accommodate a 220x300x300 build volume, I bought the longer y smooth rods, and only needed to use some spare belting I had around, and I will eventually order the longer smooth rods and rod for the z axis, but was able to use them with the current brackets. I just placed them lower on the pillars. I haven't needed to print anything that tall or long yet, but though since I was redoing the frame anyway might as well make it up-gradable.

I believe the Z Axis is extendable as long as you scale the smooth rods, lead screws, and extrusions all by the same length.

How deep do the 440mm extrusions need to be tapped for a m5 screw?

At least 15mm should be enough. I tapped it as far as I could.

Ok I had tapped mine to 10 mm... what size screws are going there? 15 sounds pretty deep considering the longest screws are 16 mm so you could practically drive theose all the way in lol

Yes, you use 16mm screws for that hole. The bracket is 5mm thick, so roughly 10mm of the screw will go in. But you want to tap past where the end of the screw will be so you are sure you have clean, fully formed threads where needed.

nice build.. nice instructions... but.. what are the measurements for where things need to be? eyeballing is ok for some t hings but knowing exactly where to bolt things down would be kind of nice

Here is an easy way to make sure the uprights are in the correct location https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2325317, it includes the .scad file so if you need to change the length it is quite easy. Just print it and then use it to align the Z Axis uprights to the proper position for your build. The default length is for a 220 x 220 print bed.

Z-frame alignment jig for AM8 printer assembly

The instructions include direct measurements where needed, or what things should be aligned with others as you assemble. For a lot of the parts, it's more important that they are aligned with another component rather than an exact measurement.

outstanding!!! thanks for the reply.. my aluminum just came in today.. still waiting on screws and printed parts... must have missed the measurements when I scanned through the instructions

Hi there! I too started the journey.... Ordered all the parts and started printing!!!

what are the lengths for the aluminum pieces we need and how many pieces??

read the BOM included with the files download, all of the materials including aluminum pieces, corner braces and fasteners are listed along with a source for ordering them. Also read the assembly manual to see how to put it together.

i did nt read the whole thing thanks

any specific suggestion for the 3d parts???layer ,pla or abs...density ??

I printed it all in PLA, I used .12 layer, 40% infill, 210c extruder, 60c bed, 40mm/s print speed. I printed most of the parts including the Electronics Case by CPT_Spekkie. I did not print the LCD mount and case parts. I used a different extruder mount with my Bowden setup.

thanks for your reply...you ve done an amazing job....i guess when i receive mine on Monday i have to put it to gether to print the 3d parts or i try to get a friend to print them...thanks again

Welp. I just ordered all the parts, just wish I had found this before going through a kilo of filament printing frame braces that never seem to work all that well ;) Thanks for the design Pheneeny,

This upgrade can be done with 2020 aluminum extrusions?

In my country i cannot find the 2040 :c

I used 2040 extrusions from http://www.ratrig.com/ Could that be a possibility for you?

I would guess if you used 2 2020 peaces for every one 2040 peace, so doubling up on the rails to form 2040 peaces yourself, and then instead of using the single small corner peaces, used the big ones just as PapaJohn88 in his build, then it could work. Because those corner peaces would effectively couple the 2020 extrusions in the bottom square frame. And then for the top 2 corner peaces just use the standard corners ( the printed back plate will there effectively couple the 2 extrusions)

So yes, i would think it is possible.

Curious, could the y axis be converted to a rail and wheels like the Tevo Tarantula?

Completed my AM8 Conversion and is very happy with the result. Better Precision prints and much lower noise/vibration. Thank you for the design! I decided to use ATX PSU (safer) and mount Mosfet Board Close to the PSU. In case someone is interested you can find detalis here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2369496
Please note that my frame does have some extra alu profiles. I also designed a new Z-endstop to be able to adjust it from the left side. (I removed my y-endstop published earlier and used the one designed by thaug). Some cable management remains, but I have done the importent stuff like fixing all cables from the hot end to the extruder Carriage. Please remember that parts of this thing is hot, it vibrates and components may fall off...

ATX PSU holder for 2020/2040 alu extrusion

Love this build, but wanted to flag one issue that has cropped up for me. I printed a set of bed-leveling wheels to use M3 nuts instead of the wingnuts under the Y-carriage, and noticed that they won't work because the wheels (even small ones) clip the Y-axis rod holders. The front right clamp could feasibly be flipped around, but the rear clamp that also holds the Y-axis endstop can't be reversed.

There is a solution to this problem, flip the rod holders around so the screw is on the inside giving more room for the bed-leveling wheels, print a fourth one for the right rear and use this www.thingiverse.com/thing:2357071 to mount the endstop. I did the same thing to mine and all is well. I also just published a remix of the Y axis endstop holder for a RAMPS endstop if you are using them. With this frame this thing prints as well as many expensive commercial 3D printers.

Checked and there is nothing on Thingiverse under 2357071 Do you have the correct number plz?

Or did you already include it?

Perfect - thanks! I think the correct link is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2367336

I'll give this a shot in the next week or so. Much appreciated!

AM8 RAMPS Y axis endtop mount and target

mjvaders, you are correct the link to the thing I mentioned in my original post is no longer available on thingiverse. It is just a simple bracket to mount the Anet endstop switch with one of the 3_Y_Rod_Holder parts. I will draw up an endstop mount for the standard Anet switch and add it to my AM8 RAMPS Y axis endstop mount so everyone can have a working solution to the problem
.

same problem as a few others as to what HBLFSNF5 corner brackets are needed

Upper right, click "View Part Numbers" and HBLFSNF5 is shown in the middle of the 2nd page.

Um looks great and very stable. How about some specs on the extruded aluminum please so it matches the printed parts you have designed so well.

Lengths and website to order is in the BOM.pdf

Great upgrade, check out my remix if you need a spool holder that fits the frame: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2361574