Loading

AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8

by pheneeny, published

AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8 by pheneeny Apr 21, 2017
10 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Contents

Design Tools

Fusion 360

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

28522Views 6422Downloads Found in 3D Printers

Summary

AM8 - A Metal Frame for the Anet A8

This project aims to build a sturdy aluminum frame for your Anet A8, while re-using as many components as possible to keep costs low. This frame can be built for roughly $55, plus the costs of plastic.

The BOM.pdf file contains all of the parts you need to buy and where to get them.
The Build_Guide.pdf has the build instructions.

This frame uses Misumi 2040 aluminum extrusions and aluminum corner brackets for primary frame connections, and printed plastic parts for alignment.

This project only aims to replace the acrylic frame of the Anet A8. The project was designed and built with a stock Anet A8 in mind, in an attempt to reach the widest audience. Many of the existing mods and upgrades should still be compatible with this new frame, although some upgrades may no longer be needed.

This project does not address any other issues with the Anet A8. Those issues should still be fixed on their own (Such as the mosfet mod).

Ideally, your Anet A8 is not your only printer, so that rebuilding it does not leave you without a working printer if something should go wrong with your build.

Build this at your own risk.

Optional Parts

The Anet Board Mount can be printed with or without an 80mm fan mount attached. I recommend mounting a fan to help keep the board cool. Any 80mm computer fan should work. If you are using a fan, please print or buy fan guards to prevent fingers or wires from going into the fan.

Additional Parts:

T-Slot Wire Cover
E3D V6 Mount


Update 5/13/17

Added E3D V6 Mount link

Update 5/6/17

Uploaded fixed STLs for the the following files:
Z_Motor_Mount_Right
Z_Motor_Mount_Left
Y_Motor_Mount
Z_Endstop
Anet_Board_Mount_No_Fan

All of the old files can be found in the old_stl.zip file

Update 4/28/17

Added Fusion 360 Design files

Update 4/22/17

Added missing link for M5 Square nut to BOM.

More from 3D Printers

view more

File Name

Downloads

Size

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

anyone know if it is possible to fix the xy home position with the stock firmware. prints are not centered anymore

I don't think you can with the stock firmware since Anet never releases the source. It's easy to change if you load Skynet on there.

Just a heads up to those of you who are using a different y carriage plate, this upgrade is not compatible with the reprapchampion variant. The y motor is raised here and the plate will collide with motor and prevent it from hitting the endstop. If perfoming this upgrade, be prepared to switch back to the original y carriage.

Once up and running I'll see if I can re-mix the motor mount to lower it.

Hi there,
I'm planning on doing this upgrade to my Anet over the next couple of weeks and was wondering if I could get away with using M5x12mm button head screws and a washer instead of the M5x10mm as these are difficult to source locally.
Thanks

I just did this upgrade, you may need two washers, check the thickness of your washers. There is not much additional clearance in the V-slots for longer screws. If you are in the United States you can order them from Mcmaster Carr in packages of 100 at a reasonable price. I am not affiliated with them but I have been a customer for many years.

Thanks for the updated files and the whole design. My Anet A6 frame just started cracking and breaking apart left and right as I move it around.

Any plans to design and add parts for A6 X carriage design? Thank you.

Hi there!
How much plastic did you use for all the pieces?
Is PLA rigid enough?
Thanks!

I used about a half a kg for the actual final prints. PLA is definitely rigid enough, the biggest concern with PLA is parts close to the bed or hotend deforming due to the heat. I did all of my original parts in PLA because I have much better success rate with it and I was doing a lot of iterations. I've since replaced parts near heat with PETG.

I used about half a kilogram for the parts I printed, I did not print the display case because I am using RAMPS v1.4 with the lcd 12864 smart controller. I used PLA and it seems to be rigid enough since the majority of the frame strength comes from the 2040 extrusions and the corner brackets which are cast aluminum.

I will be posting a spread sheet I did on my build for print times and how much material each part used tomorrow I think. The spread sheet included the electronics box from CPS_Spekkie, the extruder mount from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2279743 , the PSU mount from the AM8 addins and the alignment jig total material was 611.22 g. total print time was over 91 hours.

2020 Extruder Motor Mount (for E3D Titan)
by thnikk

I've heard this mod allows you to print significant faster with similar quality of the standard 40-50mm/s speeds. Is that the case? Can you print 80-100mm/s with similar performance?

Anyone notice a significant difference in print quality after doing this? Any before/after prints?

I don't think you can print that fast with good quality. I've been comfortable printing at 60mm/s with the new frame, but I haven't tried to print much faster than that.

Is now someone able to say anything about improvents or has before/after pictures of prints? I mean it really looks great... but is it worth the effort?

For anyone who is wanting to buy the extrusion from Misumi I created a cart and I can share that list so you don't have to go about adding the components. Please confirm the extrusion parts numbers with the BOM prior to ordering as I am not liable for any cart errors that may occur. https://us.misumi-ec.com/mypage/add_share_cart.html?mid=mid_RFW_EC&shareCd=a82b41d9-6cd4-430b-883a-39db7963e758

Thanks for the cart. Just ordered. All the pieces seems to be correct.

Ahh, first issue just came up. Im having trouble with the bottom of my leveling screws hitting the rod holder. I turned the front right side around to face the opposite direction and it helped a bit, but the rear right holder (one with the stop) is hitting bad enough that it wont even pass over it. I use thumbscrews as well and those are a def no go with this setup. Any ideas?

I ran into the same issue as well. I ditched the the thumbscrews a while ago since the threading on the carriage makes them kind of pointless. To get around that you can loosen the bed screw enough so that it passes over the mount screw, and use that as the base height for leveling, or you can swap the screw with a shorter 20mm one. I should update the BOM with the screws to replace it with.

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago
Nerdvous - in reply to pheneeny

I got a couple of ideas Im gonna try out today. I drilled my carrige threads out a while ago and the thumb screws helped a bunch with ease of leveling. Im gonna order these ( https://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screw-nuts/=17rvqzk ) or something similar and try them out with a 5-10mm shorter screw and see how it works. Ill update ya with anything I come up with.

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago

First off, amazing design. If you stray way from the BOM file of parts/suppliers be aware that 2040 profiles differ slightly from company to company, as well hardware can differ also. I state this only because I got all my parts in, only to find out that my drop in nuts do not "drop" into the channel nor do they slide in from the side. I like the idea behind the drop in option because you don't have to disassemble the printer to make changes.
Once again not criticism of the great frame. Just a note to builder.

The drop in nuts are nice, but the square nuts are a bit cheaper. It's nice to have both on hand, and use the square nuts for initial assembly, and the drop ins for any post assembly changes that you can't slide square nuts in for.

Comments deleted.

making this in EU. pricing seems to be similar, but i got royally screwed with shipping, i paid almost 120€ for everything. anyway, looks amazing and i cant wait for all parts to arrive.

I am in the middle of doing this exact project, however I'm going to be using this as a base to build a new printer. I was wondering if you have any recommendations as to what stepper motors I should use in this build? I will be using a MKS Base V1.5 ramps 1.4 board with DRV8825 drivers. I also plan on starting with a 30 am power supply and then maybe replacing it with an ATX power supply later.

hi is possibile to integrate the metal frame with this mod :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2088574
and
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1379242
i think that with these addons the AM8 metal rise the top level for this type of 3d printer

Anet A8 2020 x axis conversion
Scalar - Upgrade Z Axis SFU1204 Ball screw

Those mods should work with the AM8 fine. I tried to make the AM8 frame with a completely stock Anet A8 in mind because I knew there was such a large number of mods available for the A8, and I wanted to try to keep those mods compatible with the new frame.

You might be able too but I don't think either one would be necessary with the AM8 frame. I have my frame almost completely assembled and I am very impressed with how solid it is compared to the original frame.

Dude, thanks you for the design! Im building mine and uploaded a pic of the bare frame and printed pieces (no electronics) to FB yesterday and it got more likes than anything Ive ever posted on FB. And thank you again for going above and beyond with the BOM and the build manual. 110% A++ for you sir!

I haven't received my anet yet but I'm already combing for upgrades and things. This will be done later on for sure!

Good Job, this design looks great!

Where are you getting the metal rails from?

Aluminum extrusions are from Misumi. 8mm rods are from the original Anet A8

Anyone designed a Y axis cable chain for this mod???

May 20, 2017 - Modified May 20, 2017
PapaJohn88 - in reply to chevypower582

I have one on my A8 under the heat bed, I plan on trying to use it on the AM8. I will let you know how it works out and what needs to be done to use it. You can check out the progress on my make in the Made tab.

thanks for this amazing design i´m looking for an case for my lcd 2004 from sainsmart can you help me ?

May 16, 2017 - Modified May 16, 2017

Does anyone use this with AM8 frame? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1919544
How long should the x-rods be there, 436 mm? Since the idlers are closed, there is no space for adjustment if the rods are to long.

Or can someone recoment other printable idlers? I have seen in some youtube videos that the new injection molted ones for the A8 are to narrow (the rods must be inserted with a hammer).

Anet A8 X-Idler Mounts
by Leo_N

I have those on my A8 and will be using them on my AM8 as soon as all the parts get here. Use the rods that came with your A8 and all should be good. Leo_N did a great job if designing those Anet A8 X-Idler Mounts. They made my A8 much better than the crappy white one that came with it. I had no problems putting mine together with those mounts. I just used a 24 inch ratcheting bar clamp to take the take it apart and install the new ones. Yes the originals require a hammer or you could use a 24 inch ratcheting bar clamp instead of the hammer. I assembled the entire Z carriage using theses and then installed it on my A8.

I am about half way through printing the parts for this, they are coming out nice. My question is for those who have built this frame for the A8. Does this make the printer quieter than the plastic frame?

The biggest noise reduction for me was cleaning and lubricating the lead screws with sewing machine oil. They were really noise before cleaning, but after they are really quiet.

Other than that, I think it may be a little quieter during normal operation, but nothing significant.

Thanks, I plan on cleaning the lead screws when I move everything over to the AM8 frame. I hope this frame does not amplify the noise as much as the acrylic frame does. I am about 1/2 done printing.

May 15, 2017 - Modified May 15, 2017

Is it usefull to fix the leadscrew at the top? See here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1140733

Prusa i3 lead screw upgrade
by harari

I agree with gmarsh, if you over constrain the lead screws, you will get issues if your lead screws aren't perfectly straight.

May 18, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
3DSTB - in reply to pheneeny

What do you think about this?
In case you decouple the lead screw like here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2067676
it should be possible to fix the lead screw at the top like here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221088
But i would prefer to mount it not to the rod like there. Maybe direct to to the extrusions behind the lead screw. Unfortunitely i have no CAD skills to redesign this to mount it to the extrusions.

Anet A8 - Anti Z Wobbel TNG (Set)
by OderWat
anti wobble v3
May 19, 2017 - Modified May 22, 2017
trotski94 - in reply to 3DSTB

No. You should not be contstraining the lead screws at the top, its a bad idea.

The lead screws are left free by design, it is the straight rods directly next to them's job to keep the Z axis straight. Lead screws usually have lower tolerances than the straight rods, so constraining them at both the top and bottom can introduce issues because the two wont be perfectly parallel.

The biggest problem with the Anet is that the frame is very loose and "sloppy" allowing it to bend and flex, and the X belt tension can actually bend the straight rods inwards slightly. This frame should resolve that because it is much sturdier, and you shouldn't need any of these silly design that constrain the Z screw.

No, leave the lead screws loose at the top. If the Z lead screws are warped and they're fixed in place at the top and bottom, it will cause the X carriage to push/pull against the smooth rods.

Has anyone remixed the LCD case to us the LCD from the A6? I am looking for a remix of the LCD case that will accept the Anet A6 with the encoder instead of the five push buttons. My Anet A8 came with that display and the 220 x 270 build platform from the A2.

May 13, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017

Thank you for this great design! Right in the middle of getting all the parts for me to build this design. All parts that are compatible with my A8 have been printed in a nice blue PLA. Now only need to design a screenholder for the A6 screen (have the A6 screen on my A8 printer) and modify the bracket for the power supply (have a 360 watt supply) and want a nice cover to install a EIC power socket and power switch.

Lastly modify the motherboard plate to include a nice box in which a mosfet (small) fits and has some holes for cable management.
So a few modifications to the design for my specific setup. But have to say i love the design Pheneeny has made for us!

Very nice! A power socket and switch are in my future as well. I did not make one for this design because after I published I swapped out the stock power supply for a 350 watt Mean Well, so my power socket design will be for that.

I created an accessory mount for a mosfet board for Anet board mount I created, but I haven't published it yet. To be honest, I'm not totally happy with it, but I'm not sure how to improve it. A complete box would definitely be a better setup.

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017
CPT_Spekkie - in reply to pheneeny

I'm almost done with designing the electronics box. All i need to do is the lid and means of attaching it. Want it to be almost screwless if possible. Maybe only 1 or 2 locking screws instead of the 6 standard all cases are using.
IT has space for the board and 2 of the much used mosfet boards. And the idea is that you place a M3 bolt through the case and place the nut on the inside of the case against your component. The benefit from this is, that the head of the bolt will sit flush with the back of the case and does not stick out of the box.
Here is a screenshot of the box so far, and one complete will upload it as a remix of course.

https://s17.postimg.org/3yk47mxgv/electronicsbox_back.png
https://s17.postimg.org/bskpt159r/electronicsbox_front.png

CPT_Spekkie: I like it, I am just about done printing the parts for my AM8. I hope to assemble it by this weekend, still waiting for some brackets from Misumi. I will be using a mount I already to mount a RAMPS board set in your case. What are you designing it with? Will you make the source files available or just the .stl files?

Thank you PapaJohn88. I'm designing it in Fusion 360 within the original file that Pheneeny created and included in the set of files.
I just started designing the lid of the box, so it should be almost done.

Am i correct in understanding that u are going to use a sort of adapter to mound your Ramps board to the existing Anet screw holes in the case? IF so, thats an easy solution. Although if you can give dimensions for the screw positions i could make a second version where the screw holes match a Ramps / Arduino setup directly. Should not be that hard to change the positions.

Also i read that you are also using the screen of the A6. I do to, and want to redesign the screen mount after i complete the box. The version an other user pointed you to is not compatible with the screen frame mounts Pheneeny designed as far as i could see. So want to make a new face plate that solves this.

Lastly i have build the basis of my frame today, and its now up to me completing my design modifications and print them so i can continue to rebuild my A8 into this frame.

I should be able to complete the box design by later this night (its 02:28 here at the moment) and hope to print my case this Friday. Tomorrow (Thursday) already have a print that i need to complete that takes to long for both that and the box to be printed. And as i estimate now the box is going to take between 17 and 20 hours of printing at 0.2mm layer height with 20% infill and 0.8mm walls (4 top and bottom layers)

Oh and yes, i will upload all files including the Fusion design as a remix when the box is complete.

I will send you dimensions for mounting the RAMPS boards, it is the same mounting dimension used by the Arduino Mega 2560. I will measure one and send the dimensions or I can send you the .stl for the one I have been using. I found it on thingiverse. I understand the time it takes to print parts, I have 39 hours 46 minutes into printing the AM8 parts, .12 layer height, 40% infill at 40mm/s speed. They all look real nice, I will be doing and I Made It when the parts are done including photos.

I can work of both so whatever is simplest for you.

The design so far:
https://s1.postimg.org/jqux3tk4v/electronics_box3.png
https://s1.postimg.org/9utu46ecv/electronics_box4.png

What i did here was make two taps on the right side where you slide the cover between and then secure it with one M3 bolt and nut on the left side. The nut goes in the slot and should self align (hex cutout on the inside of the slot) and also should stay in place when the cover is not attached and you are working on the printer. (although not when upside down i guess, haha) Unfortunately needed to remove 2 of the cooling slots on the left to make room for a chamfer to allow for printing without supports.

Now to make the front cover and align that for a preview.

It looks great, I am sure it will look nice on the printer too. Here is the link to the RAMPS mount I am using, the main thing is the position of the 4 ramps mounting holes. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186897

arduino ramps mount alunar m505
May 18, 2017 - Modified May 18, 2017
CPT_Spekkie - in reply to PapaJohn88

Thanks, downloaded the design and will use it to adapt it to ramps for you and others.

Needed to tweak my hinge design a tad, the version in the last screenshots where flawed. Luckily i caught it so i can correct that directly.
Always nice to find these errors in thought while designing instead of mid print.

Here we have the "final" design with which i'm happy.

https://s1.postimg.org/1qbyj6utqn/Box_Closed1.png
https://s1.postimg.org/1u8bv2ueq7/Box_Closed2.png
https://s1.postimg.org/40khv0skr3/Box_Open.png

Only thing to do now is incorporate the Ramps holes as a second version.

Looks great, thanks for all your work. I am just about ready to start assembling it. I am waiting for a few more pieces from Misumi, I received all of the fasteners yesterday and got the extrusions along with 6 double brackets today. Tomorrow I will print the PSU mount and start assembling the frame.

Hey PapaJohn88, I have uploaded the STL's for the case into a new remix (my first woohoo). Have made the 2 versions, one for Anet board and one for the RAMPS. I'm currently printing the case for myself. but the printing time is about 24 hours. (23 to go as i'm typing this) So hopefully tomorrow night i can take pictures and fit it on the frame.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2330654

AM8 Electronics Case with Dual mosfet

Hey CPT_Spekkie, I just downloaded it, very nice work. I will be printing it after I get the new frame together. That is just exactly what I have been looking for. I sliced it, if I print it at 40mm/s it will take 29+ hours, at 50mm/s Simplify 3D says almost 24 hours. Thank you so very much for the RAMPS modification.

It is going to be my longest print I've done. So hopefully it goes well. I didn't know if you used your USB port of the ramps so I placed it in the down position. There you should have the most space to attach a cable to the port. Tomorrow I will update the remix page with the fusion files, in case you want to tinker with the design of the ramps position.

My print is running at 60mm/s with outer walls printing at 30mm/s. a little fast for most, but I get good quality at that speed with almost no artifacting so I'm happy with that. And on the new frame that is only going to improve.

And happy to be of service!

WOW Nice piece of work & thanks for sharing it !!! I just ordered the hardware & have most of the printed parts done in ABS. would u recomend acetone bath / vapor smoothing to further strengthen them or just leave them as they are !!! Thanks Again

Thanks! I would guess that you don't need to treat the ABS, I'm would think it's strong enough on it's own. The only part that is under any stress is the Y motor mount and Y belt tensioner. I don't really have any experience with printing ABS yet, so far I've stuck to printing PLA and PETG.

Hi guys! In order to proceed with this upgrade, I need to print ABS parts. To print ABS parts, I need to build an enclosure for my current not-upgraded-yet Anet A8.

Can somebody suggest a project on Thingiverse that will be suitable for the AM8-upgraded version on it's built? Which on did you chose? THANKS!

print petg...

I'm in the process of building an enclosure right now using two LACK tables from IKEA. The top LACK table is about 10cm too short, so I extended the legs by 10cm using some wood trim. I used some 1/4 inch laminated particle board for the sides. The door is the particle board with a polycarbonate window. I sealed the sides with white caulk. I have a fan powered vent coming out of the back that vents outside. I mounted my electronics on the outside of the enclosure.

Very good upgrade for A8.
I have a ANET A6 and I'd like to adapt your metal frame for A6. The main changes between A6 and A8 are the motor mount.
I don't have a license for Fusion 360, please can you convert f3d file in other 3d format ?

Thanks in advance.

Fusion 360 is free for hobbyist and businesses making less than $100k. It's a little confusing how to activate it for free, but you can.

That being said, I'm planning to export to STEP and IGES when I get a chance.

Pheneeny: How much material will I need to print all of the printed parts? I want to make sure I have enough of my chosen color to print all of the parts. Thanks, for all of your hard work developing this wonderful Anet A8 metal frame.

less than a one kg roll including the bits my dog chewed and I had to reprint.

It's hard for me to know for sure. I went through an entire 1kg roll, but I printed a lot of prototype parts that were not used in the final build. My best estimate would be roughly 1/2kg was used on parts that actually ended up in the final build. But again, that's just a rough estimate.

Thanks, that is what I need, I just want to make sure I have enough of the color I want to use for the parts to print them all from the same spool of filament.

What's the difference in the fixed files?

May 11, 2017 - Modified May 11, 2017
pheneeny - in reply to bexwhitt

I just combined the bodies in Fusion 360 and re-exported the STLs. The designs did not change, just fixed some of the STLs that some slicers were struggling with.

May 10, 2017 - Modified May 11, 2017

My black extrusions came in three days ago and I haven't unwrapped them yet, but I have been busy, printing the base parts since then. I haven't downloaded any of the part files, only the AM8.f3d file, and sending parts to be printed from Fusion 360 directly to Simplify3D. So far so good. I decided to just go ahead and build a whole new printer and keep the Anet. Everything will be brand new with extra parts from my Hypercube build. I have a Geeetech GT2560 that will be controlling all operations. Saving the DuetWifi for the Hyercube build.

Thanks for all the work you've put into this design. I'm excited to get this printer built. It will be printing my Hypercube.

Machines making machines. ;-)

Anyone made or have files for mounts for the smaller mosfets??

May 8, 2017 - Modified May 8, 2017

I went to start ordering parts today and there is 1 option I wasn't sure on...CAD there is an option for 2D and 3D? Which do I select?

Ouch...my shipping cost is almost as much as the parts themselves from Misumi.

i cant even purchase the parts from misumi!! i seriously don't understand why Canada/Usa doesn't ship to one another?? why does it cost so much to ship across a boarder?? were on the same dam continent for god sakes!!

The CAD options are only if you need to download CAD files for modeling the part in your preferred CAD tool. You don't need either if you are just buying parts.

I'm looking at doing before I get too deep into modding my stock A8...

I was curious, what are the benefits of this update? What improvements should someone see if they do it?

The biggest benefit is being able to print faster without the flexiblity of the acrylic frame affecting print quality. You can also increase acceleration and jerk, increasing quality.

In addition, the printer should stay level and calibrated for longer periods of time than the stock printer.

May I ask what acceleration and jerk settings you were able to reliably use?

I tested 2000 acceleration and 20 jerk, but I didn't fine tune it yet. My corners come out crisp, but I had a little ghosting on my calibration cubes at 60mm/s. I'm in the process of doing some additional upgrades (V6 hotend, enclosure with the electronics mounted outside), so I plan to fine tune when those upgrades are complete.

Probably the biggest advantage is your setup won't get misaligned every time you breathe on it..

Can anyone provide measurements for the location of the uprights, where they mount to the left and right sides of the base?

The build guide has all of the measurements. The back of the
uprights should be 127mm from the back of the rear base extrusion

I am about to order my extrusions, my Anet A8 has a 220mm x 270mm x 230mm build volume. I will be order 395mm extrusions for the side extrusions. I will start printing the parts today so I will be ready by the time my frame materials arrive. I am actually thinking about using longer side extrusions so I can replace my hot bed with a 200mm x 300mm heated bed. I like this design a lot.

Looks great, do you have any plans to make a video?
It would be great to see how sturdy it is, and how it sounds.
Thanks!

If I picked hexagonal M5x.8 nuts (8mm width) instead of the m5x.8 square nuts, do you think I will encounter any problems? Thanks!

Get some M5 washers (12mm max diameter) and print off something like this to keep the nut from rotating. I've done this in the past.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:270607

M5 T slot nut for misumi and mcmaster 20mm extrusion
by oryhara
May 4, 2017 - Modified May 4, 2017
pheneeny - in reply to JivRey

I'm not sure if hex nuts will have enough surface area to grip the extrusion. I have some M5 hex nuts being delivered today, I'll test and see how well they grip. Thank you for the tip!

Thanks for your reply. The supplier in the BOM document does not ship to Canada, that's the reason why I'm asking. The extrusions are on the way and I have all the remaining hardware except this problem with the nuts. Can you tell me what is the nuts height? This way, I can search for the exact same nuts available here in Canada. Thanks a lot for the great job you did, very excited to do this major upgrade :)

where did you get your extrusions? asking as a canadian :p

I got my extrusions from Misumi USA as mentioned in the BOM.pdf document. I didn't want to mess and order the wrong parts elsewhere and end up with a bunch of parts that don't fit together. So yeah I got screwed by the exchange rate, shipping and all that stuff, but I know it'll work right away.

I paid in US dollars $34.54 (Extrusions + Brackets) + $28.48 (Shipping) + $9.43 (Tax), which equals to approx $95 CAD.

Note that I had to call them because the website wasn't letting me to add backordered parts (Brackets) to the cart without charging me two times the shipping fees. Plus that add-to-cart -> quote -> order thing is pretty confusing. Good luck!

thanks, I found a few canadian supplies for the v-slot extrusion but can't find the corner brackets anywhere :S. did you get hit by customs or anything? also; how long did it take to get to you?

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
GingerBrandon - in reply to jonbayer

Can you share the Canadian link?
China has them real cheap, but it would be nice to get some quality assurance.
plus the US $ is killing me.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/391765995170?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks guys, I'll definitely purchase M5 T nuts!

what site did you order the hardware from??? (nuts,bolts,rubberfeet) usa has some kind of stank on shipping to canada lol

awesome thanks! did you get the rest of the fasteners local? i cant seem to find anyone that carries th m5's i'v only found m3's

After trying to contact a few "bolt" places in Canada and the USA, to realize that the stores don't have what I needed in stock and that US hardware stores don't ship to Canada, I decided to go to my hardware store (RONA, Montreal) and they had everything (Expect the T-Nuts) in stock. I know the RONA nearby my place is reputed to have a lot of stuff.. But I also know you guys have RONA's in Edmonton so give them a call! Good luck!

Thinking about it more, there are two issues. The
nuts need to be narrow enough so that they can slip into the t-slot channel, but also wide enough so that they can't spin feeling in the slot. The square nuts will slide into the slot, but when you tighten the screws, the corners of the nuts will push against the sides of the t-slot, stopping them from spinning. That allows you to tighten it down.

As VE2YTQ said, you can use drop in hammer nuts. These are useful because they can be dropped into the t-slot from the top, where as the square nuts can only be slid in from the end of the extrusion. They are a little more expensive, but you can get them on Amazon with prime shipping. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019ZXUSY0

Washers would help increase the surface area. Not sure if there is enough depth in the t slot though to accommodate a nut and a washer though.

May 4, 2017 - Modified May 4, 2017

I just spent 2 months printing upgrades for my 2 A8s. I wish Id had done this instead.

Although Id be tempted to use a bigger hot plate and extend the Y axis and the height.

Great job!

Does anyone know if this is compatible with the Alunar Upgrade M505 diy 3d printer? I'm thinking about getting this kit and I want to replace the frame with all metal or wood first thing. If it's not compatible I will figure it out and upload a remix

I have an Alunar M505. Exact same printer as an A8.

The upgraded one appears to use the A6 acrylic frame but the rest of the printer is still A8 style. I'll see how it goes once it arrives

Well the things you would need to check are your rod and lead screw lengths and then the center to center spacing of the lead screw and rod for the z axis. If those match up to the A8, then you should be able to use this frame and z rod holders. Otherwise you would have to redesign the z rod holders, and adjust the extruded aluminum lengths. I think the other parts you can use them as is.

Just ordered the parts for this yesterday. Will post back with pictures when build is complete

Currently looking at reworking this to have mounts for RAMPS1.4 + full graphics LCD as that is what my printer uses whilst I wait for the parts to arrive. Will also be adding cable chains I think, I assume someone has already created cable chain ends for thsi type of extrusion and there's no point me re-inventing the wheel on that one though..

Hello, would you be so nice to upload the files as IGES or STEP? So I can check all the dimensions to center and calibrate the Z and Y planes. Thank you

What infill % did you print these at. when i print them in ABS at 33% infill they break apart trying to remove them from the glass bed.

I printed at 40%, but even at 33% they should be strong enough to remove from the bed. How many shells and top/bottom layers are you printing? I think you may be having other issues beyond infill percentage

are you using cura? if so can you post your settings

Anyone having issues with their Z binding up on this? I am going to try a fix but my z is binding up really bad.

No, I had no issues with mine. My Z was actually a lot quieter and smoother after the rebuild, but I'm guessing that was mostly from cleaning and lubricating the lead screw.

The only things I can think of that would cause Z binding would be if the spacing between the bearing and brass nut is different on your machine and mine, or if your vertical extrusions aren't aligned.

Keep me updated on how you fix the issue!

It was the rods not going into the idlers all the way. I think your spacing between the 2 idlers is a little less wide than stock or it was just the idlers i printed. I drilled them out 100% and pushed the rods in more. They are aligned properly now. Thanks for the AM8 design!

Hi there
What is the size of smooth rods and threaded rods you have used in this printer. and also please tell me the bearing and their size.
Thanks

This is for reusing A8 parts. Which has 380mm rods for the Y and Z axis. 436mm for the X axis. Lead screws are 345mm.

and Sir what is the width or thickness of these rods?

They are spec'ed at 8mm nominal diameter. But with manufacturing tolerances, they measure slightly smaller.

hi..can you tell me if thi project can be done whit the tronxy p802m? i have this printer and not the anet a8 but look very very similar so...?

I don't have a tronxy, so I can't tell you for sure. If all of the smooth rod is the same length as the Anet A8, the only thing that will keep this upgrade from being compatible is the spacing between the Z smooth rod and the Z lead screw, if they are different. I would imagine everything else should work fine.

it's exactly my doubt...well..i think i have to try and maybe re-desing tha part...tank and congratulations for the good work

I'm thinking of adding some hooks to the back of the board mount to tidy up the cables.

Waiting for my 2040 ;)

Remixed an ATX PSU mount for this wondering thing. I am not a good designer so if anyone wants to improve upon it please do so!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2281916

Thanks for your hard work pheneeny.

AM8 ATX PSU remix

Can you reload the Z motor mounts and Board mount without fan they are not slicing correctly in S3D.

Reload Z motor mounts and Board mount without fan

Thanks for this. I think I've figured out the issue. Fusion 360 seems to be exporting broken STL files if the component has multiple bodies, but if you combine the bodies before exporting, it comes out fine. Cura 2.4 seems to handle the broken STLs ok, but other slicer seem to be struggling. I'm going to go through and combine and re-export all of the parts when I get a chance.

I imported the design into Fusion360 to have a browse, and noticed the motor mount didn't have all the edges lining up exactly, notably where the triangular sides meet up with the top plate that the motor attaches to. I'd take a screenshot except I'm on my work PC.

Fix that, and the STL issues might go away.

Can you please provide the Fusion 360 files? Im trying to redesign it, thank you.

Just uploaded them!

Thank you so much, will keep you updated with the remix :)

Very cool. I plan on converting over. Is it possible to use any other extrusions? I don't have a company to register with Misumi.

You can buy from Misumi as an individual, no problem.

Awesome, thanks.

This is a GREAT upgrade. Are you having any issues with wobble?

Will wait for updates

The Anet Board mount without fan doesn't slice properly in S3D.

S3D reports mesh errors (Non Manifold segments and Self-intersection surfaces.

On the other hand, Cura 2.4.0 doesn't seem to have issues slicing the file...

That's very odd. Everything was designed and exported with Fusion 360, and my prints were all done with Cura. In all of my test and final prints, I only had slicing issues with one model that I later fixed.

Nice work :-) But when i slice the file: 1_Z_Motor_Mount_Left and right, " the hole for the rod " is missing in Cura, Simplify3D and Craftware

any sulution ?

Only in the Slic3r slicer it works.

That is very odd, I used Cura for my prints and they came out fine. I just checked both STL files in Cura 2.4 and Cura 15.04.6, both running on Linux, and both Z motor mount STLs render properly and the layers look correct.

Ok, Maybe the Linux verion is bether. will try the new Cura 2.5 and see if that will do it ;-)

But Slic3r rescued me, so i got it printed :-)

Your build is awesome :-D
Thanks !!!!

Just wow! This looks amazing! I am definitely going to try this. I just wish I was better at designing as I am trying to figure out how to adapt an ATX power supply mount to this and also the Electronics cage with mosfet. I am most impressed!

I have a mosfet mount I'm working on that isn't quite finished yet. I will post it when it is done.

Nice Work. Do you have any before/after pictures of prints? I would like to know how much the quality improves. Thx

This is one area that I wish I would have been more patient with. I had planned to do that, and before I rebuilt I printed out some cubes and benchies at 30mm/s and 40mm/s, but to be honest my A8 was pretty well tuned and they both came out really well. I should have printed the same objects at 60mm/s but for some reason I didn't before I tore it apart.

When I printed my "after" objects, 30mm/s and 40mm/s looked pretty similar to the before. But, I was able to print at 60mm/s, and the only problem was the default firmware acceleration/jerk settings were way to low for how sturdy the frame was now, and left bulges around any sharp turn. Updating the firmware to Skynet and increasing the acceleration/jerk made it much better.

So I can't say for certain that print quality improved much at the lower speeds that I used my Anet at, but I can say that I can print much faster than I could with the original Anet, and the printer doesn't lose bed alignment if you bump it or look at it wrong.

Very nice. I didn't read thru all of build guide but what I saw is very well documented!

I'm considering ordering the parts to do this, but using 5 440mm and 2 313mm length of extrusion. This should allow me to use a 200x300 bed with 300mm on the Y axis. All I would need is longer smooth rods and belts.

One thing I would add is that you can order the extrusion from misumi with the holes on the ends already tapped. They do not charge too much for the service.

I've ordered all the bits, when they come in I will be on it.

I have had to change some of the parts, the corner pieces you used are not available in the UK at a reasonable price so I went for these instead http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-28x28mm-Aluminium-Alloy-Corner-Joint-Bracket-Furniture-Fittings-p-1107024.html

I have also changed the slot 5 to slot 6 so I can use these http://www.banggood.com/100pcs-M5-Hammer-Nut-Nickel-Plated-Carbon-Steel-Nut-Aluminum-Connector-T-Fastener-Sliding-Nut-p-1048442.html as they make putting the fasteners in a bit less frustrating as you pustthem in lenghtways then just twist them 90 degrees

That's a major mod. nice looking too!
Peronally I won't bother doing this major upgrade to my A6. I rather go for a larger CoreX-Y printer instead.
I do believe that having the Anet gave me a ton of knowledge about 3Dprinting, since I (and I believe any Anet printer owner) does need to do a lot of troubleshooting in order to get things going.
Gratz on your mod!

Thanks! The Hypercube is a nice CoreXY design that allows you to re-use a lot of the components from your existing printer. I originally thought of going CoreXY with this build, but decided that I wanted to stick with direct drive extruder, so I probably wouldn't be able to take advantage of the increased speed of a CoreXY, so I stuck with the standard Prusa style design.

This looks great! I've been looking for something more sturdy than the acrylic. I plan to do this in the near future!

Apr 22, 2017 - Modified Apr 22, 2017

This is great i purchased the rubbers from amazon and the crews from the links you posted but the misumi website is really confusing its giving me a ton of options besides the length is there anything else i need to modify? Example:

Wrench Hole Machining in Fixed Position
1 Row Vertically from Left End Face [LCV]
1 Row Vertically from Right End Face [RCV]
2 Rows Crisscross from Left End Face [LWP]
2 Rows Crisscross from Right End Face [RWP]
2 Rows Horizontally from Left End Face [LWH]
2 Rows Horizontally from Right End Face [RWH]
2 Rows Vertically from Left End Face [LWV]
2 Rows Vertically from Right End Face [RWV]
3 Rows Crisscross from Left End Face [LEP]
3 Rows Crisscross from Right End Face [REP]

Offset Fixed Hole Position for Thickness of Extrusion End Caps
Horizontal Wrench Hole Machining [AH](Distance from the Left End Plane)(mm)

[7-340/0.5mm increments]
Vertical Wrench Hole Machining [AV](Distance from the Left End Plane)(mm)

[7-340/0.5mm increments]
Horizontal + Vertical Wrench Hole Machining [AP](Distance from the Left End Plane)(mm)

[0-340/0.5mm increments]
Horizontal + Vertical Wrench Hole Machining [DP](Distance from the Left End Plane)(mm)

[7-339.5/0.5mm increments]
Add Counterbored Hole Horizontally [YA](Distance from the Left End Plane)(mm)

[7-339.5/0.5mm increments]

Apr 22, 2017 - Modified Apr 22, 2017
pheneeny - in reply to shaunalvarez

If you follow the links from the BOM for the Misumi extrusions, there are really only two fields you need to worry about. The Anodized option at the top will determine the color of the extrusions. The extrusions in the pictures are "Clear Anodized". You can choose "Black Anodized" if you want black extrusions, but they cost a little more.

After you select that, go to the "Overall Length" field and enter the length you need, such as 340. It should then give you a price and an option to add to cart on the right side of the screen. You don't need to worry about any of the other options, just leave them blank.

When checking out, compare the part number in your cart to the part number listed in the BOM. If you chose "Clear Anodized", they should be the same. If you chose black, they will be slightly different.

Thanks ill check that out later defenetlly and post back. What about a e3d volcano setup how would i mount my extruder motor since currently the mount is on the top right of the frame and i see you made no additional brackets for different setups any ideas?

Hmm, good question. I planned to stick with direct drive on mine, so I didn't put much thought into how a bowden setup might work. There are a number of extruders that are designed to connect to the 2020 and 2040 extrusions. You may be able to remove one of the rear plastic corner brackets at the top of the vertical extrusions and mount it there. I don't think you will lose much structural integrity without that bracket as long as you have the aluminum bracket there as well.

I am using this to mount the extruder on my Bowden setup. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2279743 2020 Extruder Motor Mount on the top right side. I tapped the outside hole on the right upright, mounted it with two m5 screws and 1 square nut in the slot on the top cross piece. I also put a washer under each bolt head to spread the load on the printed part. Nice solid simple mount.

2020 Extruder Motor Mount (for E3D Titan)
by thnikk

Im thinking the 1_Z_Rod_Holder Left/Right would need a bracket thats just some peace sticking up with 2 holes to measurement to hold the motor.

Apr 22, 2017 - Modified Apr 22, 2017

This is excellent! Thanks for the hard work and the excellent build guide you've put together. Set yourself up to accept tips and I'll fire one your way.

I'm making a couple of minor changes to reinforce the Z axis further:

  • Adding a 2020 x 273mm extrusion piece that connects the sides of the base together at the Z towers. It's $1.78 for the piece, and requires two more HBLFSNF5's, four screws and four nuts.
  • Changing out the two HBLFSNF5's on the back of each Z tower to a single HBLFSDW5. This should mount the Z towers a bit more rigidly. Requires 8 more screws/nuts total.

This may not be needed, and it does add several dollars to the cost of the build, but I can't help but tweak everything I get my hands on :)

Those are some good modifications. You could probably use the HBLFSDW5 on the four corners of the bottom frame as well, if you were aiming for maximum rigidity.

Tweaking is most of the fun, isn't it?

Apr 22, 2017 - Modified May 13, 2017
gmarsh23 - in reply to pheneeny

Here's my final set of tweaks, all intended to increase rigidity of the frame.

  • Added HFS5-2020-273 bar to bottom, anchored by two HBLFSNF5 on each side, to join the Y bars together opposite the Z bars.
  • Added HBLFSDW5's to join the Z towers to the Y bars, in place of the two HBLFSNF5's. This is intended to reduce the front-to-back motion of the Z frame.
  • Added three HPTSSL5's per side to join the Z towers to the top piece. Two on the back, one on the front below the Z rod holder.
  • Doubled up the HBLFSNF5s in the four corners of the base. Could have used DW5's but didn't see the need.

Final Misumi BOM:

  • 6 x HPTSSL5 (edit: was 4)
  • 2 x HBLFSDW5
  • 1 x HFS5-2020-273 (edit: suggest using -271 instead)
  • 16 x HBLFSNF5
  • 2 x HFS5-2040-440
  • 2 x HFS5-2040-340
  • 3 x HFS5-2040-313

Total cost = $52.91 (edit: was slightly more expensive due to above changes)

It's worth noting that you can get the end tapped on the HFS5-2040-440 piece by adding the LTP or RTP codes, for a few extra bucks a piece. That's not included in the price here, and not needed for the frame I'm making which won't have the plastic parts on the base.

gmarsh23: I guess I need to order some more parts, I like the tweaks you came up with. I will place a second order with Misumi for 1 x HFS5-2020-273, and 6 x HBLFSDW5 so I can do all four corners also. I am going to see if I can get the printed parts for joining the Z towers to the top piece made from aluminum. I know some people with CNC machines at home that might be able to make them for me.

I've got 6 x HTPSSL5 joining the Z bars to the top, in place of the plastic pieces, which would accomplish the same thing as using aluminum plates. I use 2 on the back, and 1 on the front below the Z rod holder. Another change I'd make is changing the -273 bar to -271 to make up for variation in the cut length, it doesn't have to butt against the Y bars since it's held against the Y bars by the NF5's.

I'm still in the process of building mine. I didn't order T-nuts, thinking I could just buy M5 nuts locally that would fit the frame and save a bunch of money, but finding local hardware that fits the T-slot has been difficult. Right now I'm using 8-32 hex nuts held in printed inserts... first bag of 100 fit perfectly fine, 2nd bag of 100 was too thick. sigh.

I purchased 6 x HBLFSDW5, used one on each corner in addition to the two you recommended. I also put in the 273mm cross piece at the bottom to have place to fasten the fixed end of my under bed cable chain. I will be posting photos of my make today after I finish the wiring.

I'm curious about this cable chain. I was thinking of doing something like this, attaching it to the bottom piece of 2020:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2001545

If you've got a part designed to attach the cable chain to the 2020 brace, then post it here, I'll gladly use it :)

Anet A8 Y Cable Chain under bed
by LexDK

I am actually using the remix, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054214 on my AM8, just moved it over from my A8 yesterday when I moved everything to my new frame. It works really well, maybe even better on the AM8 frame since there is additional room under the bed. Check my make later today for photos of my completed AM8. There are some of the underside after I installed everything for the Y axis including the cable chain.

Anet A8 Y-Cable Chain underbed extended
4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
jokeman3000 - in reply to gmarsh23

@gmarsh23, Did you have any problems with the HTPSSL5 not being thick enough and therefore not securing properly to the extrusion? I think you either need to purchase m5x8 screws or print a spacer to put between the screw and the SSL5. Thoughts?

I'd suggest using a metal washer, not a printed spacer, as you can put a lot more torque on it and get better clamping between the SSL5 and the frame. Or use M5 x 8mm screws as you're suggesting.

I've got my printer put together using #8-32 x 3/8" screws, which are a hair smaller than M5 x 10. I ended up using washers.

May 12, 2017 - Modified May 12, 2017
3DSTB - in reply to gmarsh23

gmarsh23, where do i have to put the HFS5-2020-273, at the bottom from left to the right?

Yes, across the bottom from left to right, joining the Y extrusions together opposite the Z extrusions. Two NF5s on each side, one front and one back, connect it to the Y bars.

Overkill? Probably. Better than underkill I guess.

do you have the part # with the tap already made?

Do you have any pictures of your build?

Waiting for parts to arrive, I'll post a "make" on here eventually.

This is amazing!! I'm going to start sourcing the parts now! Thanks for putting this together!

Thank you very much! Great job, this will be my next upgrade to my Anet A8 :D

Apr 21, 2017 - Modified Apr 21, 2017

if i make it taller , the printer can print larger builds?

If you want a taller build volume, you would need to buy longer lead screws, longer Z Rods, and longer extrusions instead of the 440mm extrusions.

Comments deleted.

Everything you need is listed in the BOM.pdf file. You need 2x 313mm, 2x 340mm, and 2x 440mm extrusions for the frame. The frame also uses some metal corner brackets for rigidity.

Wow, looks like this will be my next major mod for the Anet.

Top