AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8

by pheneeny Apr 21, 2017
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Distance between threaded rods on A8 is 380 mm, but on AM8 the distance is 373 mm. Is there a special reason for this?

Will the Y-axis tensioner fit one of those 5mm 20-tooth gear replacements?

e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K9GXL49 ?

I thinks you need 3mm bore not 5mm, also anet pulley has 16 teeth but 20 should be ok for idler.

Has anyone who built this noticed any significant difference in print quality or any other benefits?

Definitely, cleaner prints, better detail, easier calibration, etc, etc, list goes on and on. It a metal frame vs acrylic (plastic)...But as author states its not an all in all solution to anet's deficiencies. Safety issues. Also I am noticing (because of this upgrade) other deficiencies. Poor H or X frame for heated bed, heated bed too does not heat evenly, bad alignment of bearings so the metal frame itself cannot cure all these but it is a HUGE step in the right direction...to me that's a significant improvement.

What is the height from the top of the extrusion, to the center of the y-axis rods? I need to know this so that my carriage plate will clear custom rod holders, etc.


Can I use 2020 aluminum profile, or it won't be so rigid?

It will not be rigid enough. Do ctrl + f on this site and type 2020 on left bottom corner, this question has been asked before... I know there are many questions

before i disassemble my a8 how many of each part do i need so i don't need to reassemble my a8 because i am an idiot

The number required for each part is at the beginning of the STL file name. The BOM contains the number of hardware parts you need to buy.

The BOM says I need 110 tee nuts and I only have 100. I am wondering which spots I can save a nut or two on to have enough to finish the build.

Your best bet is to leave some of the screws from the corner plates on the bottom of the frame off. Those are the least necessary in my opinion.

My bushings in the front seem to hit and the extruded cannot get to the back of the plate. How did this not happen on the Anet? Does anyone have a remix for this or can identify if I set it up wrong?

*FIXED I simply moved the Z axis back 60mm and it now reaches the entire board.

Hey, i would like to build this AM8 but i have a Geeetech kit.
Anybody here have already did this by adapting the kit to the Geeetech ?
Both kit are really similar but i prefer to ask..

Others have done remixes of the AM8 for the Geeetech Pro B.

Geeetech Prusa i3 2040 (AM8) - Metal Frame for Geeetech Prusa i3
by Ente246
AM8 Geetech Z-axis

Good morning, someone has these files for this profile measurement?

Thank you for sharing your work, it is a beautiful frame and a great improvement to replace my broken acrylic frame.

I just made my AM8 before finding out the Y axis is a little short, and should be 364 MM in length.

I didn't want to buy new extrusions, so I designed an extension.


AM8 340 - 364 MM rail extension t-slot

please can anyone who built this confirm this is true and necessary? Thanks

I just built mine and noticed that the Y axis is a little short, so I configured the firmware for 210 x 220 bed and the problem is solved.

It's not required, but will give you a little more room on the Y axis. I never changed the build instructions because I never personally tested this, but it should work ok. I'm still using the original length just fine though.

ok thank you

Can the parts from an A6 be used to make this my A6 has the a8 stye screen

Hi, thank you for your great job.
Nevertheless, I'was wondering why did you design the Z motor mounts to be screwed by socket head screws instead of button head ?
Could you design a version of Z motor mounts to be screwed with button head screws ?

I was wondering about this too. Is there any particular reason for specifically using socket head screws there?

I just finished my am8 build and am only having 1 problem. I see several ways to deal with it but it is so close that I am suprised I have not seen more discussion of it here. I may have done something wrong causing my own problem but I dont see what.

As you can see in the attached pic, on the rear right smooth rod mount the set screw is so close the the bed adjuster that it will interfere with almost anything bigger than a simple 3mm nut.

Im considering a few fixes.
-flat head screw and countersink it a little. this may weaken part until I can remix and will only provide a shaved frogs hair of clearance.
-shim linear bearings so the bed rides a few mm higher

Has anyone else had this problem and already remixed something or have a better solution?

Note, the carriage pictured is the Gulfcoast Robotics Y carriage but I dont think thats the issue.

I had this issue before. The easiest solution was to reprint the rod holder with something like this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917099)
It just needed to be a little longer to clear the thumb screw that I used (https://www.amazon.com/Ultimaker-Leveling-Adjustment-4Springs-Heatbed/dp/B07KVHR6KF/ref=sr_1_34?ie=UTF8&qid=1550600612&sr=8-34&keywords=3d+printer+bed+level+screws)
Hope this helps :)

AM8 Y Axis Rod Holder Rework
by ranalex

I got a clearance using a spacer.

SCS8UU Spacer/Shim Block for Linear Bearing LM8UU by Arkayic

SCS8UU Spacer/Shim Block for Linear Bearing LM8UU
by Arkayic

I commented on the same issue a few months back and posted photos of my solution (attached). You're right. Not many discussion around this. There are several ways to correct this problem, such as the one you described on your follow up. In any case, after converting to the AM8, my printer requires less bed leveling adjustments. Mostly when I switch from PLA to ABS and vice versa.

I found the following alternative to the right right rear Y rod holder that accomodates the adjuster with room to spare.


Y Rod holder with end stop flipped
by Celphor

When ordering the extrusions from the site in the BOM, do they come pre-cut to the appropriate length?

i'm having 2 issues, please help if you can

  1. my x axis straight rods stick out on the right for some reason and it means that using the belt tensioner is difficult.
  2. my z axis keeps binding since i built the am8
    thanks for any help and sorry for the inconvenience.
  1. When I first built my a8 I didnt notice there were set screws on the back of the 2 end parts of the x axis that you needed to loosen to get it to seat right. I forced it through and unfortunatly scored my rods some and never got it seated right till some weeks later.

  2. Make sure your wires are routed so that there is sufficient play for travel to the top of the Z.

do you really need 110 t nuts? can't see how you would need this many?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Just a quick look at the pictures I have counted around 100. Every screw going into the aluminium extrusion requires a t nut. It's surprising how they mount up. If you look at the picture showing the underneath of the printer, each red corner brace has 5 each, the metal corner brackets have 2 each, the Y motor mount has 4, the red brackets for the vertical extrusion have 4 each etc, etc.
On that one picture alone I can see more than 36 used.

Does anyone have a link to the x axis motor mounts and idler that uses the larger ZYLTech anti-backlash nuts? I found a adapter that lets you run it upside down but just wanted a cleaner look, thanks KH

First! - many thanks for that great idea and design.

could someone tell me the distance between REAR of the frame to the BEGINNING of the profile for the Z-axis profiles?
(see pic attached)

Sorry if the questions was already answered but 862 comments are just to much to read :D

The build guide dose say to put it 127 mm away form the back of the frame, so the distance that you have marked would be 107 mm.
Hope this helps you.

Thanks again for a great design, my build is just about complete I'll post it soon, all parts printed in eSun PTEG transparent green used black metal and it looks awesome! I printed all the parts on my Monoprice Mini IIIP LOL!

What settings did you use in Cura? Specifically infill %.

I've got a question. I'm planning on making this, and integrating a casing around it directly. If I'd use 20x60 for the vertical on the right side (not x-motor side), and screw a plate directly to that, would the y-carriage clear the plate? Or would I need 20x80? In other words, does the y-carriage stick out more than 60mm from the inside of the vertical axis?

(See awesome explanatory paint in attachment.)

I've read down a bit and cant find this answer... can this be adjusted for 2020 without modifying the supplied print files?

I'm assuming that you'll get problems with the top part of the frame wobbling back and forth. I don't see why the top 20x40 can't be a 20x20 though. (I don't have this built yet, so can't say for sure.)

Comments deleted.

I'm still me! MakerBot owns thingiverse, and when you send a tip, it goes to them, and then they pay it out to me once a month (while taking a small amount). I get an email every time some sends me a tip(received one from yours). It would be nice it it just went directly to the recipient, but that's the way it works.

Thank you for the tip!

Ah, okay. I'll delete the comment if you'd like.

I would appreciate that, would be better for those that don't read any of the replies and only see the first comment lol

If anyone is looking for V-Slot for this upgrade, At www.Makerparts.ca we sell Genuine Openbuilds V-Slot rail and we can cut them accurately too!.Shameless Plug :) Located in Canada

Hey there,
So I just printed the LCD cover and noticed that the LCD base collides with the LCD top... I thought maybe my printer didn't scale it or something, so I looked at the F360 model and indeed saw that the parts do collide. Is this intentional? or should I file it down?

What adjustments need to be made in Marlin due to the shorter Y-axis distance?

Ok, total noob with tools here. I understand printers very well. I'm using the M5x.8 tap and the holes seem to be too big for the screws, as the screws just go right through the holes I am tapping. Is there a better strategy? Am I using the wrong tap? I've never used a tap before, I picked this up in a tap and die set from Harbor Freight. The instructions aren't very clear on how to use a tap, and there aren't really videos anywhere. HELP! I don't want to have to buy new extrusions.

On a side note- let me know if you guys would be interested in me doing a video tutorial series on how to put this together when I figure out how to use the tap.

Thanks in advance for the help!

There is a significant difference if you ordered the incorrect series, there is series 5 and 6. Series 5 has a 4.2 clearance hole diameter, and series 6 has a 6.8 clearance hole diameter. You can easily make a mistake ordering the wrong one by checking the series, which that almost happened to me. Just get a next size up tap and screw.

An M5 .8 tap is correct. Did you get the 2040 extrusions form Mitsumi or some other vendor? I just received mine and my m5 tap worked correctly. Here is a picture of the holes you tap.

I bought them from Misumi... just clicked on the link in the BOM and ordered them. I'll have to look at your link later and take a look at the picture. Are you supposed to drill the holes first?

No, they are the appropriate size for tapping with an M5 tap

The M5x.8 Square Nut that you link to in the BOM pdf is a different price and quantity than what you described. Is it still the correct product to buy?

Hello! Can you give a link to the parts for the assembly of the extruder?

Great design, details and instructions. Fun building experience. Thank you for sharing and happy to share my build!

That is what i was dreaming about! happy to find that definately build and share it! Thanks!

Love this build! Currently in process of putting one together from scatch (e.g. never owned an A8). So would like to put forward a small suggestion.

As I did not have an A8 I needed to print the entire X assembly as well, turned out the one I went for was the Prusa I3 version which I didnt realise until assembly time is slightly smaller between smooth rod and lead screw. Intially it all looked and fitted fine, I only realised the issue when moving Z to bottom of axis and would grind to a halt ~20mm above bed, prior to this flex in the motor allowed fitment (using NEMA motors with built in lead screw so no flexible coupler which would most likely of hidden this more).

I've solved this by using a drill to oblong the motor screws alowing slight adjustment. These are still solid when screwed down with addition of a washer but allows use of this style X idlers. I think adding these elongated screw holes to the build will be a nice option to allow for different X carriages.

Have you found the right parts to print for this frame?
I have the Anet A6 and the X-axis assembly doesn't fit so I have to print everything...

Thank you!
I have also found this:

Anet A8 X-Carriage Mounts
by Leo_N
Comments deleted.

im in the process of putting mine together and my y axis endstop doesnt seem to be doing its job correctly, it just keeps maxing out and stretching the belt when it tries to home, any help? i got it to home correctly before i put the bed on the y carriage, but after i did this started happening and i cant really see whats going on down there

Look for the bed leveling screws to be hitting the front or back aluminum extrusions, the smooth rod clamps, or other object, thus preventing full travel of the bed and actually hitting the y-axis end stop. Check full travel in both directions.

I think it's something with the motor mount, it will just skip the belt when the bed reaches the back, please help any big print I try to do fails because of this issue

Did you connect the Y endstop correctly into the mainboard?

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

Would you have the settings to properly set up the printer in Marlin?

The website you linked for the extrusions is incredibly confusing to use. How did you get the extrusions in the desired lengths?

Misumi is one of the easiest websites to use in terms of customized products. Just read EVERYTHING and take notes. Once you get the hang of it, it's a breeze.

For 2040 extrusion:


Follow the items on the side for what you want.

Check the box for Configurable

type your length in mm, rounding up to nearest .5 or .0

Check HFS5-2040 for Clear, HFSB5-2040 for black and CAF5-2040 for clear anodized with clear coat paint

Then add to cart. Easy

I am just on the way to do an order to do this upgrade for 2 cheap CTC Prusa-i3 Printers, to make AM8s out of them (replaced several other stuff already). But I want to include other upgrades, like replacing the threaded and the smooth guide rods, pulleys and etc.
Since I dont have a real A8 I cant use/measurethe current rods -
Can anybody please tell me the exact length of all rods ? (threaded and smooth rods on z-axis & length of smooth rods on x- and y - axis)
Thanks a lot !!

Thank you for this design. I am already printing all parts but I would want to modify the part "bottom corner plate" to add a base for another metal 2020 frame I am adding. I tried editing the stl file but solidworks keeps modifying the scale. Could you please send it to me or add it to the zip file?

My metal frame is now built. Did the parts in a silver grey PLA. It went together really well. I changed the PSU bracket for one to take my 30A PSU. My wiring now needs sorting out.
Can anyone recommend suitable cable chains that can adapt to this metal frame? The wires kinda spoil the look of a very neat project.

I replaced all of my cable chains with Techflex tubing. It makes maintenance or future changes 100% easier and prevents cable chain wear on your wires (yes that is a thing). Just search on Amazon for Techflex cable sleeve, or split loom cable sleeve. I used 1/2 in and 1/4. 20ft of each was more than twice what I needed for a single printer, so you could go with a single roll of 1/2 in if you wanted

I used the 364mm vs 340mm sides however still experienced the "crashing" problem on using print pause function. I believe that I have found a fix. The problem is that the AM8 bed sits higher than the A8 bed. Fix is to select Configuration->Feedrate->Home Z and change from 4 to 10. Don't forget to save to EEPROM. After this fix I am able to successfully pause and continue my prints.

when I pause my print it crashes into the front. Also, my home and center are off. it's skewed in the y direction. did you have these same issues? I'm going to install Marlin and see if I can figure out how to get it centered. any help would be appreciated. thanks

No mine crashed in the center rear bed when pausing a print. In the Anet firmware pause goes to rear and then left. Your Y Axis is reversed - strange...

Ok, thanks for the reply. The Y seems to work right normally. I've printed and it didn't reverse the print. Do you have Marlin on yours? I'm about to install it, are you able to adjust the home position and the pause position from the menu on the lcd with Marlin? Or do you have to edit the config code? Any help is appreciated, I haven't figured this all out yet and there's lots of conflicting info out there.

I have run Marlin 1.1.9 however I am running the original Anet firmware due to better print quality and the pause continue feature. Marlin pause just stops where you are in the print. Marlin allows you to set the home position from within the firmware and save to eeprom.

is there a way to adjust the home position and center the bed with the original firmware? would this be done with pronterface? I don't really need to upgrade the firmware I just want to center it and fix the pause issue. thanks!

Will this kit from RatRig work for this build?
Also should I pay the $5 more for this? Optional: Change 340mm rails to 364mm

Thanks for sharing your project. Just ordered all the parts, cost to build was 75.50 (not including all the printed parts).

Not sure if someone already asked but have you noticed any increase of noise during the printing process? I love the design, I'm just looking into pros and cons of doing the upgrade. Thanks in advance.

When I was building the frame, I cleaned and lubed the rods and lead screws with dish soap and sewing machine oil, and that helped a lot with the noise. Otherwise, all of the mechanical motion parts are the same, so there isn't much of a noise difference.

Great! Thanks for the quick reply.

Just a note to other's like myself who wish to upgrade the A8-M (the duel extruder version) it is 40mm wider and 45mm longer than the original A8,

Were you able to just buy longer extrusions and use the rest of the design the same?

I'm fairly sure that's all that is required. I haven't finished my build yet but I'll update when I'm done. I'm fairly sure only the width will need to be bigger as the extra length I believe is only to compensate for the fact that the extruder nozzles sit further from the x carriage. Moving the uprights back a little should do the same thing.

I really like this Anet A8 design, currently upgrading mine to AM8. I would like to ask a favor. Could you make a mount for a Mean Well RSP 320-12 power supply aswell?
Thanks in advance!

It looks like the RSP-320-12 has the same case dimensions as the LRS-350-12, so I think you can print and use that mount for it (Which I've already made and published).

I managed to get a complete machine ( with laser cut ply frame!) for a mere £75. Its OK enough to print all these parts out . They are all nearly printed. I found one or two files had to be tweaked as they wouldn't print as they were. They weren't on the flat side to print? Has anyone else had this problem?

Fusion 360 exports STLs in the orientation that they are in on the model. It would be a lot of work to rotate all of the models before exporting them. As far as I'm aware, all of the major slicers support rotating models, so this shouldn't really be a huge issue, just rotate it in the slider.

Comments deleted.

This project was a lot of fun! My only problem now is that the bed slides back too far. When my blue touch comes down to touch the bed, it's too far back that it completely missed the bed. What value do you change in Marlin to fix this? Thanks!

Hello. Were you able to configure Marlin correctly? I finished the assembly but I could not configure it.

Where can i find the original X carriage mounts for this?

Thank you pheneeny for this great project.
It was a lot of fun to build it and the result is great

please send me x Axis motor carriage

An excellent end result. A lot of hard work gone into designing and producing the parts for the frame. Greatly appreciated.

Can you use M4 screws and parts instead of M5? Just wondering since the M4 seem to be more readily available.

You probably could if you can find an M4 nut that will hold in the extrusion channel securely, but I don't know for sure.

Yes, that looks right.

hi there just upgrading my anet to am8 and have a little problem with my y axis. the end stop at the back does not hit the bed in any way.. it's too low.. any ideas anyone?


is it possible that you mistakenly mounted the y endstop onto the bottom of the mounting piece it is on? It should look like this
(reference to the picture included below)

hi there, after closer inspection it was me that was wrong... it's working fine now...thank you tho for the quick response!!

no problem!

Absolutely wonderful design!!! I did a lot of research before buying my Anet A8 and this was basically my first planned upgrade. I printed a few calibration pieces on the original Anet A8. When compared to the ones printed on this frame there is absolutely no comparison. All the parts were well designed and required no modifications. Really great work. I am interested if the printed corner braces are required with the metal braces. The metal braces seemed very secure, so I wondered if they had issues or if your original design was intended not to need the metal braces.

I'm not sure how you got your LCD in the middle, My cable was only long enough to reach if I put it on the far left side. As it turns out, I like it there though. My only other comment is that installing only 4 feet instead of 6 makes the printer more stable if the table you have it on is anything but absolutely flat.

to the LCD... 4th and 7th photo shows that cable is led diagonally under the printer's base straight to MB. So thats how he did it.

Heck, I don't even own an A8, but this project makes me want to buy one and upgrade it!
Marvelous work!
Thank You!

you dont need to buy complete Anet A8.... you can simply buy parts without acrylic case. You can then choose board like Anet board, RAMPS etc...

Just an FYI mrmestric has closed business.

Hey! Just so everyone knows, the parts for this frame should be printed in preferably PETG, but PLA works well too. Do not print them in ABS because ABS has a lower tensile strength than both PLA and PETG. ABS has higher impact resistance and temperature resistance than PLA, but unless you are hitting your AM8 with a hammer, only tensile strength should matter (given the exception of the parts printed for the hotend).

My printed parts are currently a mix of ABS, PETG, and PLA, with my AM8 in an enclosure. The only issue I had was with a PLA fan shroud that warped while printing ABS (Since the shroud it close to the hot bed and the fan wasn't on).

I generally prefer ABS for printer parts because it is about 20% less dense than PETG and PLA, so you save a little bit of weight on the moving parts. It is also more rigid the PETG. But its also a pain to print, so I stick with PETG for the really large parts.

What about printing nylon or some other high temperature filament inside an enclosure. Do you think the increased heat would make a difference?

I'm not sure about an enclosure, I've never tested that, but I definitely know that Nylon has a significant tensile strength, greater than that of PLA and PETG

OK, thanks.

Comments deleted.

Anyone find the need to mount the Y motor outside the frame?

Yes. If you mirror the mesh it works mounted outside of the frame. I have found several things that needed changed from the original am8 which leads me to believe there was a revision in the a8 design at some point.

Comments deleted.

What is the highest you can print with the AM8??

I haven't actually printed this high, but the axis maxes out at around 230mm

Done upgrade... Also installed Noctua NF-A4x10 as extruder fan and now enjoying the silence...even with stock type blower fan (which i replaced also as my had defective bearings and was very loud) everything is more silent.

I have Anet A8 2018 and seems to me that there is more changes. I found that the print is not centered. X-axis the print is right in the centre but Y-axis is moved about 9-10mm to the back... so i think i will have to move gantry a little.... Anyone with 2018 Anet A8 have the same issue?

And Pheneeny: wonderfull job. Thank you 4 sharing... you saved my printer as it had broken acryl frame. One day i was printing and suddenly heard BOOM.... and whole back of the acryl frame was all around in small pieces.

I just finished mine, same issue. Did you find a fix? Also if I pause it, the bed crashes into the front.

for me fix is simple... just move gantry little fwd, just didnt done it yet as im going to do BLV12 upgrade soon....

If you have that pause in GCODE check where it is set to go. I remember that this happened to me during Linear advance calibration as GCODE had wrong settings. It run all axis to max and waited 4 max_end_stop which Anet doesnt have.
If you just click pause in printer menu, then check your FW settings it should be somewhere.

And if you still using stock Anet FW i strongly recommend you to update to the latest Marlin FW due to security flaws in original FW (overheat protection off etc...) and you also may get some print quality improvement. You will find many manuals how to do this.

I would love to upgrade my frame!
Can anyone confirm if this will work for the TronXY P802MA?

I believe it's pretty similar. The motherboards are different, but the rest of the components are basically the same. I also have the tronXY. I think the tronxy is a clone of the A8

hi pheneeny thanks for your grate design..

i just seem to be having a problem with 2 of the parts Z_Rod_Holder_Left and right it seems to fill in a lot of the mesh when i come to slice it
i have put some pics in to show you what i mean
your help would be most welcome

thanks james

Sorry, I have no idea what is causing that. I sliced all of my parts with Cura and they worked fine. I'm not familiar with the slicer you are using.

Hello, can you help me with a STL file so I can print the letters AM8 in a contrasting color.
It would be nice to have the letters glued in the recess.
Anyone? Please let me know.

I like that idea, I'll see if I can make some inserts that fit.

Would be great, looking forward to it.

Just wanted to relay the message that Mr Metric will be closing permanently on 5/31/2018. There's some talk of alternatives in the reddit thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/827hml/mr_metric_is_closing_on_531/

Also, I just had my newly-built AM8 print for the first time! It was just a calibration cube but the sides look gorgeous compared to the ringing and echos I'd get with the same print settings. I'm working on the documentation of changes I made for the Make I'll post later today.

Thanks so much for this project!

Yes, I saw the original announcement. All of the major components have alternative sources listed in the BOM by now. I few small item pieces may need to be picked up locally. Thanks

So I completed assembly and executed my first test print, a 20mm cube so that I have a reference part to determine where I have problems.

Of course for your first print on your first printer, you expect a mess of a print... I was surprised at the quality of the print, despite known issues I was expecting, particularly in the x-axis precision. I have belt induced issues, as well as a slight lean of the z axis... but overall the print came out with a great deal of perfection, compared to my expectations.

Now I did do a different overall build. I ran out of screws early, so I went back and removed all of the printed corner brackets... I over-bracketed with aluminum brackets, as I wanted a stiff frame, so the printed brackets were just decoration. I'll post pictures once I get my cable chain printed...

Hats off to Pheneey for a top-notch frame upgrade design...

Late edit... My y belt tensioner started to pull the tension screw into the body og the base of the tensioner. I've got a work-around in place, but will be redesigning that part to include a metal plate to provide better support. With the work-around in place on the y belt, and an x-belt tensioner I printed with 100% fill, I seem to be at top form for the a8 design. Very nice... Time to upgrade firmware, and add the auto-level sensor.

My heat bed wingnuts hit the Y rod holders unless they're on a 0 degree angle. Also means I can't put printed wingnut covers on :(

Just remove them, they don't really do anything anyways since the carriage hole is threaded as well.

I have an anet a8 too and I will encounter this same problem that can't be fixed by your solution because my anet a8 is a 2018 version which doesn't have threaded carriage holes. I have an anycubic ultrabase (glass) hotbed cover but I can't drill holes into it because there is a sort of special metal mesh lined into the glass for great bed adhesion. What do you suggest I do?

Thanks :)

perhaps something like this? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2782683

A8 Bed Leveling Thumb Screw
by theroar

I bought several parts kits off of ebay that appear to be this same design, with a kit of identical printed parts. I asked the seller several questions that should have resulted in an attribution. Seeems pretty crappy to be selling things on ebay that someone else designed, without any form of attribution... It is my understanding that the seller is in violation of the licensing.

It is pretty crappy, but completely expected. I've learned that if I release something, no matter how liberal the license is, people will shamelessly violate the license. So at this point I pretty much assume that anything I release will be sold by others and the license most likely will be violated. There is little I can do about it. I don't like it, but at this point, like I said, I expect it.

Well, your work is appreciated...

My entry into the 3d printing world was delayed because I was too busy with the 17 other projects I have underway... But the timing was good in that I get to come in when the entry point is quite affordable, and the mod market is so full of options. I'm convinced I can eventually build something better than I can buy. I had planned my entry to be with a CNC machine, but I'm starting to think printing in plastic will have far more applications, and be a more affordable hobby.

Thanks for your contribution to my first build! I hope to contribute my own improvements. 30 years ago I was modding printers, professionally, making improvements for high volume units used by big agencies that did a LOT of automated material handling. I don't know how much of that applies here, but I know how to do things like improve precision, and remove vibration. The a8 parts are pretty loosy-goosy, but my rails are straight at least, and I have a good foundation. just need to get the rest of my t-slot hardware.

iam upgrading my Geeetech i3 pro b. Ordered everythink. iam so excited ! decided to order the 500mm aluminum profile for the Z-AXE for a possible later upgrade to the MGV12 version. i just have to modify the plastic plates for the z axe cause i only have 300mm rods but it will work.

i will send you pictures in 1-3weeks and let you know how it worked out ^^.

thanks for sharing such a big project !

take care.

Well how did it go? Any advice to someone with the same geeetech model?

Printed all parts and was in process of building and hit a issue (expected an mine not A8, CTC i3 reprap) distance between z motor shaft and z-smooth rod is not the same as for the prusa mk3 x-axis ends. CTC parts are usable, but have to bodge the prusa mk3 e3d v6 extruder mount to CTC x-axis carriage, until i print good enough.
Already had to mod the LCD panel as CTC has potentiometer.
Here is where i got t-nuts they are fidley but you can add mounting points without dis-assemble:
Oh and got 3m of 2040 from LED-glass.eu from germany to uk, even gave end caps for free. Very helpful and even on ebay too.
And M5 tap was just passing through hole in alu, so used M6, worked nicely, but go slow as can just make out white stress marks.

Me too had to thread with M6 tap the bottom holes of 440 mm vertical 2040 bars, and I used 2 rubber feet on every side...

those are so useful, i ordered 150 off ebay
these allowed me to jump around the instructions in a order that worded for me (which is building the brame, then attaching everything all the electronics)

I bought a supply of T-nuts and the spin-in t-nuts, as the square nuts seemed like they could be improved on. And yes it is handy to be able to come back later and add a spin-in nut later, and to use the two nut styles to speed assembly of some sections. But I had the regular T-nuts and started assembly before the spin in nuts arrived, so I pre-installed some T nuts where I thought I might need them, and have a few floating around for future use (like a mount point for a mosfet board I will print soon). The regular t-nuts have a deep threaded section, so they have a stronger hold than the spin-in, but both are good to have.

I built mine without the instructions for the most part. I ran into issues with the instructions, and decided to just build the thing on instinct. I did not have the a8 already built, so for me the instructions just didn't fully apply anyway. So being able to change the design mid-course by adding a spin-in nut in the middle of an assembled section allowed me the freedom to use my own assembly sequence, and change my mind later when needed. Spin-ins are not perfect, but if you develop a feel for the cam action, you can tell as you tighten them when they engage correctly, and when they don't.

With both the fan sockets taken on the main board where do you plugin the 80mm fan?

I think I'm going to have to remix it to support two MOSFET too. Although if I use two MOSFET (one for heat bed one for extruder) then do I still need the fan?


fans are generally not to picky on voltage, if you wire a 12 volt fan to a 24 volt fan it will work, but it will be extremely loud)
so wie it up directly to the PSU

I connected my fan directly to the PSU.

I would advise against adding a second Mosfet for the hotend. The hotend does not draw a lot of current (only 40 watts / 3 amps). The connectors on the Anet Board are capable of handling that fine. But adding a hotend Mosfet introduces a fire risk, because now instead of one, you have two mosfets that can fail in an "On" state. Either Mosfet failing in the on state will be a big problem.

So a hotend Mosfet doesn't really solve any problems, and actually introduces new risks.

The fan is useful for cooling down not only the onboard mosfets and connectors, but also the drivers, voltage regulator, and external mosfet. I'd recommend keeping the fan.

I've done more research in the meantime and 100% agree with you, decided against dual and just hooked up one. Thanks for the tip on the fan. I'll find/make a mosfet mount. Maybe just push the mainboard up and put the mosfet under it and fan under the mosfet?

I have all the stuff for this except the printed stuff. Just got a bowden v6 setup and it prints so fast now, so I can finally move onto the rest :)

I made a mount for my Mosfet when I made the original build. It was an adapter that mounted to the fan mount and held the Mosfet in the fans airflow across from the board. It worked well enough for its purpose, but it was terrible for accessing the board or any of the connections on the Mosfet, so I never published it. I'll revisit that and see if I can design one worth publishing.

I don't actually use the board mount anymore because I built an enclosure around my AM8 and I moved the electronics outside of that. I designed and printed a full control box for an MKS GenL / Mosfet / fan that I use now.

Hows this? Need to redo the mesh, just concept

I would probably flip it and put the board under the Mosfet, only because if I remember correctly there are some wires that might not reach if the board is higher.

One thing just occurred to me - is that 80mm fan blowing air onto the mainboard and taking from under it, or is it taking (hot) air from the mainboard and blowing it out?

Mine blows air from below, out over the main board. Without being fully enclosed, I don't think taking air from the main board would cool it very well.

Good idea - I'll make a proper one when I have time, maybe tomorrow

Im in 4 Dual mosfet support, can be located under anet board due to short control cables... possibly standalone dual mosfet holder which can be placed under mainboard holder.

and to the fan, simply connect it directly to your PSU 12V output. its 12V fan

Thank you for this amazing build! I'm planning to make it my summer project. Just wanted to point out that on your BOM. The link for the "E3D V6 Style Heat Block" takes me to "Mean Well NES-350-12". I think you accidently put the wrong link for the heat block.

Thank you.

Thank you, fixed it.

If I'm not mistaken the M5x.8 Square Nut amazon link is also wrong. It goes to a hammer drop in T nut. Also, I wanted to know if I use Stainless Steel screws and nuts instead of the Black Oxide finished nuts, would there be an issue? Thank you!

I wasn't able to find another source for the square nuts in the original BOM. They were thin square nuts and normal square nuts won't fit. The hammer tee nuts listed are a suitable replacement. The only reason that I originally went with square nuts was because they were a lot cheaper, but the hammer tee nut prices has come down a lot since then, and they aren't that much more expensive now.

thanks again for the inspiration. awesome build. I have one question, and sorry if it has been answered already. when I pause print the bed hits the front and jumps teeth. its running repetier firmware. I thought I saw the solution to this but could anyone point me in the right direction. Other than this it has been a great build and I couldn't be happier with it.

I have the same issue. The frame is great, but the front & back are a little too close together, not allowing the bed to move as far as it otherwise would. Is there a solution for the "pause" hitting the front other than longer side rails?

Just a quick rundown??

What firmware are you using? Fixing this requires changing the pause position in firmware.

I'm having the same issue. I am planning to install Marlin. Can you tell me what code to change in the config file to change pause position? thanks.

Does anyone have any tips on making sure that the bottom frame is square? I'm having really bad binding issues with my bearings. I've used a square to check the inside and outside of the corners and it seems fine. if I loosen up one of the rods it moves left and right about 5mm when I slide the bed front and back. anyone else experience anything like this?

I had this problem. In my case the rods were straight, but their diameter varied every two inches. So once I tighten the bearing blocks, I get intermittent binding. I ended up using a light silicone oil to help some Teflon powder adhere, and it helped a little. I figured I would fix this later, but it doesn't seem to be affecting the prints that much. I'm hoping that some light bearing wear will help iron that out. Of course I replaced the ball bearings before I assembled the printer, so I never tried the stock bearings, using the Igus upgrade bearings. I was disappointed initially with the Igus bearings because I can feel excess side to side clearance compared to the ball bearings... But with the poor tollerances on my guide rails, perhaps that looseness is working in my favor. my next printer is going to be built with a t-slot rail and a wheeled carrage in place of the guide rods, to see if that works better. Lots of examples of that in the CNC designs out there...

Bottom line, go ahead and assemble your printer and test it before you decide that binding is a fatal flaw. It is less than ideal, but perhaps not as bad as you think it is. I've worked with a lot of high speed printers that have much better rails, so I might try and buy a higher quality rail set later. But my printer is working well despite the binding.

This is probably more of a rod alignment issue than a frame square issue as the mounting of the rods is pretty independent of the frame shape. Are your rods straight? You should be able to line one rod square to the frame and tighten both ends down. Then move the bed to one side and tighten that end of the other rod down, then slide the bed to the other side and tighten that side down. If your rods are straight that should align then properly.

I agree with this based on my experience building this. I made sure the base of my frame was level and square building it on my granite counter top (also useful making sure the Z frames are square and in alignment). Even with all this I found I too had bad binding on the Y carriage when i used the guides to set the distances. For me I measured and secured the front Y rod mount then loosely mounted the other front one with the carriage on. When I slid the carriage all the way forward it marked where my other rod holder needed to be. I then measured the distance from the end for each one and adjusted the original then started over till they were dead center. When I new both front ones were exactly where they needed to be I repeated a similar process to this in the back. When the 3rd mount was secure and everything was sliding smoothly back and forth I let the 4th mount end up where it ended up. It was about 1-2mm different than the fronts but it moves super smooth.

When investigating my binding I found some threads and videos on testing/fixing bent rods. I found that 3 of my 6 rods had some out of round to them. Using a method I saw online (sorry can't remember where) I placed the ends of the rods on glass and gently rolled them. They would rock back and forth because of the bend and eventually settle with the bent side down every time. I confirmed this with repeated tests. I then corrected the bends using frequent targeted directional energy application to overcome horizontal resistance aka I pushed on the low points rather hard repeatedly till it was straighter. I then sanded my rods with some 800/1200 then 2000 grit to get them silky smooth.

I saw some people straightening the rods with heat and I understand the concept here but since I didn't have replacement rods in case I didn't think it was a risk I wanted to take.

Are the stock Anet linear rods for the y-carriage longer than 380 mm? I modeled the frame in SolidWorks, and it's 380 mm long in that direction, why do the y-rods overhang?

The y rods are 380mm. On my printer they overhang because I used 333mm extrusions because I had them on hand already. The build guide specifies 340mm extrusions which will not overhang.

Hey all,

I'm having issues purchasing from MISUMI. They don't seem to want my money lol. Has anyone else had issues buying from them?

nope they where fast and up to par for me

Maybe its just the singapore branch then.


Succesfully made this but getting bad ghosting even at 30mm/s with acceleration at 400 and jerk at 8. Worse than stock frame lol, I'm sure it's my fault though. Any idea how to troubleshoot?

Did this take more than 1 spool of filament? I'm building with some PETG and don't want to get caught with an empty spool as I print the necessary parts out.

It should take about half a roll of filament.

Belts properly tensioned?

Also, enable your steppers (just use a 'move axis' command on the UI) and try to manually "wiggle" the heat bed, X axis etc. If it wiggles, something's loose. Could be belt tension, or a plastic part could be more "bendy" than it should be.

Yeah belts are tight, nothing wiggles. I also replaced the idler pulleys with toothed ones to reduce the vibrations of the belt's teeth on the smooth pulleys. That seemed to help the "inherent" vibration somewhat but didn't do anything for the ghosting.

Will this inprove print quality at all? How much does it reduce the noise? Im thinking about doing this but it’s a lot of money and i don’t really see the benefits

It's only like $50...?

Print quality is improved by being able to set a higher acceleration /jerk without getting ringing. The higher acceleration / jerk produces cleaner prints in faster time. You can also print at faster speeds without ringing as well.

Noise levels won't be much different than the stock printer.

I don’t have an M5 tap, what should I do? Is there a way around this without buying one?

You can get a tap very cheap... You could probably figure out another way but more than likely, it would affect quality/rigidity..

Those T brackets aren't 100% necessary, and you could skip it if you can't get a tap. They mostly help with aligning the vertical extrusions, while adding a little rigidity. The frame might be a little more wobbly in the X axis without the rubber feet there, but you still have 4 feet at the corners.

However, you can by a cheap tap set for like $10 and some WD-40 that will do the job.

having a little trouble and hoping someone could help me out. my z axis lead screw and smooth rod are closer together than an original a8. the outside to outside distance of 24.9mm the rods are both 8mm (leadscrew and smooth rod) would anyone be willing to help me remix the motor mounts and upper rod holders to fit my application? any help would be greatly appreciated.

was just looking at the mitsumi page for the HBLFSNF5 brackets in the BOM
and decided to download the cad to mock one up for printing... and the cad is totally printable.
you need to download the STL (file format:other, other format:stl) and looks to be of good strength. but it needs supports

you do need an account to download the CADs from mitsumi
it's not hard. just use some made up business name. like "Apt 906 makers" and your home address. then wait for the account to be approved. and list your profession:other and industry:other

Made! I actually went with BLV's remix, but it wouldn't have happened without this build first!

Would that affect the quality and the vibration at all?

Are you asking compared to the AM8 or the original acrylic anet? I cannot compare my machine to the AM8 because I did not build the AM8 originally then add the linear rails later but rather went straight to the linear rails portion. Compared to the the acrylic anet, yes, I personally have had superior results.

i do not have an anet a8 but a clone of a clone, the tronxy p802d. I was some how able to break the acrylic frame (please don't ask lol) and get it up and running again. I printed a calibration square only to find that is was more of a parallelogram. the y axis was not even close to square to the x axis and the ringing I have had since this break is almost to much to take. I admit I am very new to 3d printing but a fast study. My place of employment has a dumpster full of 1"x1" 8020.net material. my question is, can this be remixed to use this free material?? I have no problem buying the parts as indicated in the BOM but have an abundance of free material at my disposal. (with the correct permission of course). from what I have been able to find the biggest difference I see is the z axis bearing and rod holders have a different center to center but not much else. If it is of help, I would be more than willing to trade design for materials. Either way, very great design and thank you for the insparation.

And as of right now, this is the cheapest way i could find on how to get the hardware. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AM8-Metal-Frame-for-ANET-A8-FASTENERS-ONLY-Screws-only-/273136997136, but you will still need to buy the m3x25 heated bed screws ;)

I added the m3x25 screws after initial release, and you can get by without them. The problem is the original bed screws can interfere with the new Y rod holders if you level the bed tight to the carriage plate (low). If you level your bed fairly high, the screws won't interfere.

Will it still work if I use square nuts instead of t-nuts?

Yes, but the square nuts need to be "thin". I've had users report that they bought square nuts that were different from the ones I listed, and they were too tall for the extrusion. I haven't found another source for the square nuts that I'm certain will fit into the extrusion, but I've bought those T nuts I listed and they work fine. MrMetric still has the square nuts in stock though.

Comments deleted.

the mrmetric website doesn't seem all of the screws required. what should I do? Thanks in advance

I sourced the metric fasteners through Ali Express and came in around $35 CAD (all with free or nearly free shipping). It's not ideal, but it'll do the trick.

im using this website, where I can get all of the hardware for $21 including shipping.https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/basket-contents.html

I'm in Canada, and the shipping page says that there is a $50 flat rate charge to ship up here.
I'm emailing locally to see if anyone can provide what I need. I had to order my aluminum extrusions and brackets from BC, and it wasn't as cheap as I would have liked (but this is a hobby, so i'll eat the cost)

Yeah, I’d love to find a place where I can get the extrusions with a cheaper shipping price, because at Misumi, it’s only about $35 for the extrusions and brackets, but then it’s about $20 shipping,

What about using Mcmaster Carr?

That could work i guess, but does anyone know where i can get a mount for the etopxizu 30a psu for this frame

I was browsing the comments prior to starting this build myself. I have an etopxizu being delivered, so looked for a frame for it. But maybe you've found it by now? For future readers at least: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2698399

Power Supply Mount
by Gasby

Yes that worked very well for me

I've been working on updating the BOM with new sources due to mrmetric closing down soon. For now, you can get the button head screws on Amazon

https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com has GREAT prices for all screws, even metric.

Thanks, you saved me from having to keep my acrylic frame!

Comments deleted.

How much would building this with 3060 aluminum rather than 2040 change the design? Do you think it's possible, or would the measurements be too far off to properly build the frame?

These parts come with the Anet A8 this kit uses. You print this part if you don't have a Anet. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1919544

Anet A8 X-Carriage Mounts
by Leo_N

They didn't fit due to Z rod spacing, at least for me.

Anet A8 X Axis Printed Pieces - Idler and Motor Holders
by AVZ

No but as long as there is no limit stop for the X rods in the right idler you should be fine.

Haven't printed them out yet, but I plan to do so. But I am going to check the sizes and shape beforehands via OpenSCAD or F360.

Thanks for the design! It's a huge improvement on the stock printer.

I also wanted to comment for anyone who has an issue with the wing nuts on the hotbed carriage hitting the y-axis rod holders, Mr. Metric carriers an M3x0.5 knurled nut, part number part M50759 for about $1.32/ea that gives the necessary clearance. I installed these with an M3 washer between the carriage and the knurled nut and everything works great.

I also wanted to note that my machine doesn't seem to have the Pause y-axis crash issue I've seen mentioned in other comments. I used the suggested 340mm side extrusions and my machine runs the stock Anet A8 firmware version that comes with the auto-leveling sensor, and after adjusting the home position and bed size in Slic3r PE the machine pauses without issue at the left rear corner of the bed.

I just finished building this and I am so very pleased with my printer again. My A8's heat bed was not squared with the x axis. Trying to print a square calibration print, where both diagonals of a square should measure 80mm, one would come out 79.5 and the other 80.5, I've tried adjusting the threaded rods to get it square, but that would just end up putting too much pressure on the smooth rods and would make it nearly impossible to level the heat bed making my want to pull out my hair.

Just finished this and the first thing I did was a square test print again... Now there is only a ~.05mm difference (80.03 x 80.08) which is one hell of an improvement from 1mm.. I could probably try to adjust it to get it lower, but I don't want to take my chances making it worse and I am pretty happy with .05.

Thank you so much for making this so easy with the BOM and guide. I am in the process of designing an electronics cage to contain my 2 mosfets and a rpi3 with the main board.

Just created two CAD parts for vertical stabilization (my base assambly gave me angled Z axis).
I'm printing them now and after test will publish it on my page.
additional hardware 2xM8 rods 380mm + 6xM8 nuts.

Just let me know if you have Z vertical issue two?

is this compatible with alunar m508?

Great project.

"All parts were printed without any supports" ~ That's fine, but some objects are floating in the air by default. E.g. what orientation should "1_Y_Belt_Tensioner.stl" or "1_Y_Motor_Mount.stl" be printed? I suppose I should rotate them to stand on their flat surface. Right? Will the Y tensioner be strong enough when printed vertically?

Nevermind, I printed it with support and also printed another kind of Y belt tensioner that can be printed easier.

At which distance do you place the Z axis on the Y axis?

Page 17 of the build guide has the answer: The back edge of the vertical 440mm extrusion should be 127mm from the back edge of the rear
extrusion of the bottom frame.

Nice work, do you have a link for the X-ends?

does anyone know if a tronxy p802d could be used as a donor for this frame? I cracked a piece of acrylic and have been looking for an upgrade. thanks in advance.

My AM8 y axis seems to be 1-2 cm too short, the heatbed always crashes in the front. And the printer has an offset of about 2,5 cm to the left on the x axis, so there's too much space on the right side and it prints in mid-air on the left. Help, anybody? Maybe post a Marlin config file...

Now that I think about it, my Y axis is only a few mm short. I could probably just move the Y sensor back a few mm and that would stop the bed crashing in the front... maybe.

That might work, just as long as the bearing still hits the endstop before it hits the plastic mount. You could also just reduce the size of the your build area in firmware by a couple of millimeters so that the firmware doesn't allow the bed to crash into the front.

I suppose I could just set it to 220x215 and it would be fine, but man so close! :)

I'm having a similar issue with the Y axis length. when I home the Y axis and move 220 forward I hit the frame between 215-220mm from the start. I'm not sure what to do about that issue.

Regarding the other issue you're experiencing. When I would home I noticed the X was -33 and the Y was 0. Measuring, the X axis was actually only 15mm from the left edge and Y was indeed 0 from the front bed edge. So... I modified the marlin firmware like this;
// The size of the print bed

define X_BED_SIZE 220

define Y_BED_SIZE 220

// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.

define X_MIN_POS -15

define Y_MIN_POS 0

define Z_MIN_POS 0



define Z_MAX_POS 240

After flashing, When I home then move to 0,0 the nozzle was right on the front left corner. When I go to 110, 110 it's dead center. Hurray!

Next was the bltouch, which I have mounted behind the X carriage. It's X=0 and Y=53 from the nozzle. So that means if the nozzle can only go to y=0, the bltouch will be Y=53. That's as close to the front edge that it can probe. So I have these settings;

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]

define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 53 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]

However, when I would run G29 and probe the bed, it was right on the edge! So I needed to adjust the probe boundaries 20mm inward on all sides (except the front which is already 53mm from the edge) so I have these settings;





Notice each boundary is 20mm inward from the 0 edge or 220 edge of the bed, except the front which can't go any closer than 53mm, so that's as good as that gets.

now it's working perfectly! However... should we move the upright extrusions forward so the nozzle can go past y=0? and allow the probe to hit closer to 20mm from the front of the bed? not sure yet.

How do I, when I click on AUTO HOME, the hottend go to the middle of the heated bed?

I finished my build today. But I have some problems with the print after leveling (see picture below).

G28 will center the nozzle right on the X on the bed
G29 will prob on 3x3 Points
But the print, for example a 20mm cube, has a offset off 23mm on X and 39mm on Y - but why?


// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
define X_MAX_POS 220
define X_MIN_POS -11
define Y_MAX_POS 220
define Y_MIN_POS -40
define Z_MAX_POS 240
define Z_MIN_POS 0


How can I fix this problem?


After hours of search and trial'n'error, I took a break and drank a coffee. And then, I saw the error. First, I centered the nozzle instead the sensor, and the the sensor offset was wrong. After some measurement, all is now fine <3

Where do you print the pieces that make legs that touch the ground?

Those aren't printed, they are rubber and bought from Amazon in the BOM

Does anyone have a recommendation for a X axis (holder and carriage)? Carriage preferred for e3d and BLtouch.

I have been using die Leo_N idler with my A8 before but the distance between them is smaller on the AM8. Is there a difference between A8 old/new version, resp. AM8?
I'll probably just drill them for now but I wanted to print new ones (in better quality) anyway.

What are you guys using besides the original ones?

I'm using this one; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2099577
I then added this on the left side so I could mount a 40mm fan instead of that noisy one that comes with the anet.
and this mount for the bltouch.

ANET A8 | Customizable E3D v6 Carriage / Bowden Mount
by TNS
Anet A8 40mm Adjustable Universal Print Fan Adapter
by Guimly
BL Touch Rear Mount

As for the Ed3 mount, I use this one. It is totally awesome- especially with a half circle fan duct. I added a bltouch mount to mine.


E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v2 for Prusa i3
by Tech2C

I have a request, if you have the time: The Z brackets that sit at the top of the AM8 to hold the linear rods in place don't give ways for if lead screws were to be higher... Is it possible for you to modify them so they can allow lead screws to be taller? I replaced my lead screws because they were bent, and the smallest I could find was 350mm tall. :(

There are a couple of remixes that should work for you. I haven't tested either of these though.



Z-Rod Holder
by LTH
Z rod holder
by Ludicer

So, printed all the parts and working on assembly. When I got to the step of attaching the Z motor mounts to the frame, the screw heads don't fit into the recessed screw holes. Anyone else have this problem? Everything else so far has fit perfectly, so I can't believe that my printer just did a bad job on those two parts. I'm not sure if I should try to carefully drill out the plastic, or modify the stl and reprint, which would add another day or two of printing to the job. Thanks.

Mine fit tight, but I usually just tighten the screw into the plastic either using the threads on the screw, or putting a nut on the back and tightening it down. But if its too tight for that, drilling works fine too.

I just realized this was all my error. I was supposed to use the socket head screws to attach the z mounts to the extrusion, not the button head. Ugh!!! That would explain why the screw heads didn't fit in the holes! haha.

Yeah, the screw heads were like 1-2mm larger than the opening. I just drilled it out slowly with a 3/8" bit and no problem. I do worry if it'll be stable but if it isn't I can always modify the stl and reprint in the future. Thanks.

I would just recommend drilling it out. It is the quickest solution, and as long as you drill slowly (as to not melt the plastic) you should be fine. Use some washers to make it extra strong :)

I drilled slowly and it worked. Thanks.

Do I need I type or B type alluminum extrusion? Thanks

I would also like to know this...

Have an example of the difference between the two types?

What are those long red tabs inserted into the metal slot to hide the cables in the 5th photo? Is there a print file for them?

Linear Rail Slot Covers - Hide your wires!


can you please share your CAD models, maybe a step file or something like that.

I want to make an Anet AM8 combined with an enclosure.

And it would be really nice to use your model and some of your 3D printed parts.

Maybe you can send me a link :) Thank you!

AM8.f3d is the Fusion 360 project file and contains all of the source models for the build. Fusion 360 is a free CAD tool.

okok nice, then i have to try to convert it, thank you!

I am in a “Catch 22” situation. I cannot get my Anet A8 Working smoothly enough to be able to print parts, so I want to change the frame to this aluminium version. But as I cannot print parts I cannot put together the aluminium frame! Is there anyone selling printed parts for the conversion in the U.K. or EU? A Google search hasn’t come up with anyone so far......

What material are you after, i did mine in PETG. May be able to sort something out, i can print and mail them. I printed mine on my mk3 so quality is great.

Chickey very kindly printed off all of the parts I needed to make the conversion to a metal frame. The members on this forum are so helpful, what a great bunch of guys.

Hey guys, I just realized I need to get holes tapped in my aluminum extrusions, but I have no clue how to go about getting that done. Any ideas, other than buying hundreds of dollars worth of equipment for two tiny holes?

EDIT: Turns out you just need a $10 'tap' drill bit, not a whole tap and die set. That makes much more sense.

don't use a tap-drill bit. They're typically for thin materials and not really designed for this application.

I'd say that it'd be best to get a set like this and a small can of Tap Magic. The Tap Magic will help the tap move through the metal without getting too gummed up.

Just be very careful, taps are hardened steel and thus very brittle. They're incredibly easy to break and nearly impossible to remove once broken.



Watch some youtube vids here and there to get comfortable with tapping and method then try it on a spare piece or a piece that doesn't really need a tap for practice

Can someone tell me the full dimentions of the frame, i need to know this cus i have an enclosure.

Question. Is cheaper /worth to buy separate parts to build this, or to buy and Anet a 8 to do it?

You're better off buying loose parts, especially if the goal is to make a quality printer. The A8 is a collection of cheap parts - rods are crap, bearings are crap, H plate holding the heat bed is crap, wiring is crap, power supply is crap, the pushbutton user interface is horrible/slow compared to something with an actual knob you can turn, etc. You're paying for a bunch of parts you won't use (the frame) and you'll probably end up replacing a bunch of the other parts anyway.

I'd check this out - building the cheapest possible Prusa MK2 clone:

And here's a remix of the AM8 Z axis brackets to have a 17mm lead-screw-to-guide-rod distance, allowing you to use Prusa MK2 bits:

AM8 Multi X Axis Mounts (17mm and 21mm for now)

I have to disagree with your comments about the stock parts being junk. Maybe you got your A8 from a different vendor than me. The A8 is very inexpensive but if bought from a reputable dealer (I got mine from Gearbest) you wind up with a bunch of very good quality electronics. My A8 has been printing basically nonstop for a year or two without a hiccup. And I have abused the heck out of it.

Add to that the upgrade ability of the control board (reflashed with Marlin and Bltouch) and it’s pretty unbeatable

I stand by my statement.

Electrically, A8's are famous for burning up heat bed connectors (hey, lets take a 10 amp rated connector, run 10 amps through it, and use not-all-that-flexible cable with no strain relief, in an application which subjects the connector to flex...) and motherboard connectors also have a tendency to burn up (crappy connectors also run at their ratings, and there's thermal relief on the connector footprints on the PCB design... bad bad bad)

The power supply is also a clone of a 150W Mean Well RS-150 power supply, stickered with a 240 chinawatt rating, that gets bloody hot - especially if you're printing ABS, TPE or other things that require the heat bed to run hot. They're also famous for dropping dead, and they have no CE/UL/whatever certifications. It really can't keep up with the load of the printer - you can hear your extruder cooling fan speed up/slow down slightly when the heat bed kicks on and off.

These are design issues common to all A8s. You can get around them by direct wiring your heatbed, using external MOSFETs, putting a cooling fan on the power supply or swapping in an ATX supply or whatever... but fundamentally any 3D printer worth buying should not require all this stuff to be done to it!

The fact is, your are correct about every shortfall you mention about the stock A8. I have in fact addressed almost every one of these things: I direct soldered power to the heat bed (0 $), added a separate heat bed MOSFET ($3) and installed fans on the control board and cheapo power supply. All this really has left me with a very reliable printer - and I say this after hours and hour of printing.

I guess I didn’t think much about these simple fixes because I paid $129 US for it!! Bottom line: I would buy another one in a heartbeat for an AM8 build. But that’ just me.

Thanks for this design I am very happy how the build has turned out,

I know there's some talk of it on this thread but not too many answers. I have finished my AM8 build this week and wondered what settings people have settled on regarding acceleration and jerk? Or perhaps is it best leaving them settings default but printing higher speeds than before?

I tried 1000 acceleration but noticed underextrusion on a couple (not all) corners which i am not sure if its the hotend not coping or the extruder.

I'm currently running acceleration at 1800 for X, 1600 for Y and 15 for jerk. However, I'm still using the terrible stock belt on the Y axis, I tried using a steel core belt on the X axis, but the tight angle of the small pulleys have destroyed that belt. I think I could go for higher acceleration and jerk with better belts.

Hi there,

I have been using this upgrade for a few months now and noticed that my Y motor bracket is bent!! I printed a new one with more walls and more infill, but this one too is bent.. When viewed from the top, with the belt tension, the motor is rotated clockwise...

Maybe someone has experienced this and found a solution... before I burn brain cells to come up with one!!


What material is the bracket printed with? If it is PLA, it may be warping due to the heat of the bed.

High heat PLA...

I just took a look at mine, and I can see a slight bend in mine too. Granted, mine is regular PLA still, and it doesn't look like it is effecting the prints, but it looks like something I'll have to fix in the next revision. In the mean time, try printing it in something like ABS, or with a higher infill density.

I think I found the main problem... I have been using TMC stepper drivers and had the amperage too high for these original motors... The Y motor was hot as hell!!!! I couldn't touch it even after machine was off and I was undoing all the screws!!! I lowered the amps and it cooled down quite a bit.

I put the torch to the bracket and re-straightened it. I am sure it will not warp as much as it was. Like you, I have been looking for a solution to strength it...

Thanks for coming back to me!!!

What is better? Y 340 mm or 364 mm?

thnx for answer

If I was ordering today, I would probably order 360mm. But as I don't have that to test with, I don't want to put that in the official build untested.

Hi there!
Do any of you use thumbwheels beneath the H plate? I would like to, but they hit the Y rod holders :/

There's a set of thumbwheels for the A6 that are designed not to hit the frame - they're essentially the same outer diameter as the wingnuts for the bed. Let me find the link
Okay, here's the two I've downloaded:

Designed for the A6

Designed for the A8

Both fit nicely through the tiny gap between the hot bed frame and the printer frame as they're the same diameter as the wingnuts. Hope these are of some help to you

Anet A6 Table nut and cover spring
Anet A8 Bed Leveling Knob

Great work and thank you. I do have one question. Has anyone drawn this up using 80/20 brand aluminum extrusion? We use the imperial version and I have some scrap laying around.15/15 and 15/30

Hi guys,

first of all i'm new here, and i'd like to thank pheneeny for the design of the frame. I just want to make a 3d printer from scratch using this frame as it is really compact and neat looking. I've put up a list of things that i need can you guys please check if i'm missing anything?

3D V6 3D Printer long distance J-head&Single Cooling Fan for 1.75mm/3.0mm Bowden Filament Wade Extruder 0.3/0.4/0.5mm Nozzle
AM8 Frame
AM8 Frame printed parts
Power Supply S-360-12
Fused Power Switch
Hatchbox PLA
Anet Linear Screw 2 Phase 42 Stepper 1.8 Degree Motor
2xT8 - 2 - D8 300mm Stainless Steel + Chrome Steel Lead Screw - GOLDEN
Practical 6 - 36V Auto Leveling Sensor for 3D Printer
12V 40W Ceramic Cartridge Heater DIY 3D Printer Part
3D Printer 3mm Square PCB Heat Bed MK3 / Reprap Hot Plate Dual Voltage 12 / 24V
"Ramps 1.4 kit:
1x Mega 2560 R3 ATmega2560-16AU+CH340G Arduino Board
1x Ramps 1.4 board w/ jumpers and power connector
1X 12864 Full graphic LCD smart controller (comes with SD-Card reader, rotary encoder, connectors, 2 ft long cables)
1X 40"" Gold plated/shielded USB cable w/noise suppressor. Essential for stable connection and printing.
3X Mechanical endstop switch w/ 40"" cable
5x A4988 (maximum 2A/phase, w/sufficient cooling) stepper motor driver
5x Aluminum heatsink w/ 3m heat conductive tape backing"

In the file list I do not see an X belt tensioner... does this design not need it or should one still be used but outside of the scope of this project?

Since the X axis stays pretty much stock, most 3rd party tensioners should work fine so I didn't include one here. I am using a X belt tensioner

for those of us building this from scratch instead of an upgrade...... where would one find the x axis files?

A good X-axis tensioner is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1683070 - it presses on the end of the horizontal rods so it doesn't put any tension on the vertical rods like some other tensioners do.

Anet A8 Improved X-belt Tensioner

People please be wary of buying the extrusions on eBay [yeah yeah i know]. I found a seller on there using an image from this thing(probably without permission), I purchased a kit of the extrusions (marked up obviously) and never received it, no refund or resolution either from the seller, eBay, or Paypal. order from mitsumi usa if you have the patience that I clearly lacked when looking to buy.

I saw the same add on eBay and something didn't sit right with me, which is why I decided to purchase the extrusions from Mitsumi USA. It sucks that eBay nor PayPal could not help to rectify the situation.

I ordered that kit on Ebay and didnt have any issues. The seller was responsive to questions as well. Maybe, I got lucky.

I got mines on BangGood, longer than required, to be trimmed locally. Price lower than Amazon. An artisan (metal windows and doors maker) cut them cut to measure for nothing (total 6 cuts...)

I'm going to make this upgrade in the next few days, already ordered everything. I want to use a E3D V6 hot end (direct driven) with a 12mm sensor for bed levelling. I was looking and wasn't able to find any carriage. Can someone point me to a good design that fits my needs?

Thanks in advance!

Try designing it yourself! I'm sure there are models out there, but learning CAD is a good thing to know, especially when you have a 3D printer. If you just want to design simple things, you can use TinkerCAD or some simpler CAD software like that, which is very easy to learn. If you are more interested in it and want to learn how to make more complex models, go for Solidworks or Fusion 360 (or Creo), and there are plenty of other softwares, too. Then you can make your own custom mount!

I know how to CAD (a little bit, not an expert). I just asked because someone could have designed a part already and therefore, there was no need to reinvent the wheel.

But I do understand your point and truly appreciate your comment!

Would this work? It seems to have a modular leveling add on... whether it is for 12mm probes, I don’t know.


Anet A8 E3D V6 Bowden MODULAR X Carriage V4 *BEST ONE*
by Don1337

Oh I see! Well if you’re just looking for a v6 mount it should be easy, but the leveling sensor might be the challenge... but there might be one....

how much filament will this take

Less than half kg, so it's said by Pheneeny

How are people printing the Y Tensioner without supports?

The Y belt tensioner is shown properly oriented in the photos, the Y belt tensioner block needs to be oriented the same way the Y rod holders are oriented for printing, standing on one of the long sides.

Alright so i'm from Australia and am trying to purchase the Extrusions from Misumi but on the website, Australia is not an option. What should i do ? Is there any alternative options to the Extrusions ?

Hey there,
I've ordered mine at:
This is a company in Portugal and they send it with DHL. I guess Australia shouldn't be a problem, Belgium wasn't!

Good luck!


This might be a stupid question, but I have finished printing all parts and have all the hardware except for the feet ordered off Amazon because stupid me overlooked it. Are they absolutely nessicary. I want to start assembling asap and don't want to wait for prime to come through in a few days as well as spend another $7 but If I need it I need it.

No they aren't absolutely necessary, just nice to have. You can assemble without them. You may want to print out some feet. It helps to have the printer elevated for the LCD cable

Hello everyone!

Is it correct that only the 440mm extrusions need tapped holes for this project? If anyone has ordered their parts from Misumi pre-tapped, is this the correct product code: https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302684350/?HissuCode=HFS5-2040-440-LTP

Just wanting a quick confirmation on what needs threads before I put in an order.

Happy New Year!

That is correct, only the 440s need tapping. That link looks correct, but I didn't have Misumi tap mine.

Thanks so much!

When assembled with the 3D printer parts added, what are the final dimensions.

I'm in the process of building a box for my printer and I want to make sure I don't make the box too small before the components arrive.

I built an enclosure out of Ikea Lack tables. The area of the table is a good size for the printer, not too tight and not too much extra room. I needed to extend the legs 10cm to make the table tall enough for the printer. You may even be better off going 15cm, as 10 is a little tight.


Once we want to buy the extrusions off of misumi, should we use the link that is provided in BOM or should we use the item code that is provided in BOM? Because I noticed that the link shows the item only but if you insert the code it will show you the specific extrusion you completed. Also how would I want to get the same extrusions but in black anodized aluminum?

Misumi tends to change their urls from time to time. The part number is more important. Just make sure it's a size that you need. There should be an option for black on the left side. You may need to unchech the option for a clear coating for the black option to appear.

That Mr. metric sale is better than nothing but they often have 20%-25% off sales as well

Love this design and for that, gonna upgrade mine. But got couple questions. Does the distance of Vertical frame(z-axis) from the back of Y-axis matters? If so what is the distance? I cannot find the dimension in BOM. Thanks.

Its in the Build Guide PDF. (Which is excellent btw) Here is the copy n paste from page 15 to save you looking it up:

  1. Before tightening the screws attached to the frame bottom, you need to position the vertical extrusions on the bottom frame. The back edge of the vertical 440mm extrusion should be 127mm from the back edge of the rear extrusion of the bottom frame. The most important part about positioning the vertical extrusion is ensure both extrusions are aligned, and equal distance from the back of the bottom frame.

Very good designed Project - Thank you for sharing this with us!

At the moment I will start to order the needed pars listed in BOM. And I found this set of extrusions: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/AM8-Aluprofile-und-12-Winkel-20x20
But in BOM there is listed "3 X length 313 mm" ... this set includes a Little bit Shorter length of "310 mm"! Is there a Problem if I us the Little bit Shorter (3 mm) extrusions?

Thanks in advance fo all helpful answers.

I just bought this kit (Dold). The Extrusion is not V rail, and is just straight sided. Whilst that's not a problem unless you want to use a V to run some wheels in it.
I have found two issues with their kit. Neither are major, and are easily overcome.

  1. The hole up the middle of the extrusion is larger than in a V rail. You cannot put a 5mm thread in there as the hole is too big. HOWEVER, You can easily get a M6 thread in there without any difficulty at all. Which is what I have done. Seeing that mine will stand on rubber feet having a larger / thicker bolt head should not be a problem.
  2. The 90 degree joiners are quite nice. However they do not fit when you have a Crossed Bar joint. Like from the side of the vertical gantry into the front to back bottom rail, and again on the wide side of the vertical gantry rail into the wide side of the front to back lower rail. I have some Chinese joiners and these are not as nice, but have small raised bits that are easily filed down flat. So you can get one set of locating pegs in, and the other one has to be removed so it can butt up tight to the rail. I would suggest 4 off 40x40mm (8 holes) Angle brackets, and two 20x40 (6 hole) right angle brackets, and I am going to see if I can get some.
    OK I am a bit pedantic, and want my metal frame to be rock solid. After all this is the point of converting to the AM8.

As for the costs. The Dold Mechatronik kit is cheaper at 27 Euro (plus VaT, then, + Postage at 19Euro), than the RatRig one at 65 Euro (Plus Vat, then + postage at 13 Euro). Although it has cost me a lot more, as buying the "hammer nuts" and a load of hex head screws was a lot more than I expected. The Ratrig one comes complete with nuts bolts and brackets. Also the Ratrig one is V Section extrusion and will accept a M5 tap up the centre hole in the end.
Ratrig also offer it in Black.

NEITHER supplier offers a 365mm lower rail option, and I think they should, as buying that separately has added to my costs. These extrusions are NOT cheap, even when buying from China. I bought two 365mm rails from Ooznest.co.uk. Not cheap, but good quick service and helpful people. ( wanted it before Xmas so I have something to do!)

If I was doing this again I would buy the Ratrig one as It would have worked out cheaper for me.
Having said that there is NOTHING WRONG with the Dold Mechatronik one.

These are my personal views, based on what I have found out so far. Both kits appear viable, just be aware of the costs when adding it all up, and whether you want 340 or 365 side rails.
Namely do your homework more thoroughly than I did!

Hope this helps someone.

Thank you very much Geoff,

for this good and helpful Information. And especially for your thoughts about this "little" differents .

Have a nice end of the year - And best wishes

You would loose 3 mm off the X-axis but that wouldn't hurt it in any way. You would just need to adjust your travel limits in the firmware so it doesn't crash on the other side but that's no big deal. I've been running mine for a couple weeks now with this upgrade and its a very fun build and a killer quality improvement over the stock frame so your going to have a blast just like I did I'm sure!

Does this just affect the end stops or is the print area affected? There is one version of this that keeps the X axis the same length...I'm debating going with that version and just buying longer rails.

@ DinkyMods:
Thank you for this helpful answer!!!

Thanks for sharing.
Really easy to assemble.
Profile ordered from motedis.

I have also thougts of buying from motedis, and thinking of adding some T- and L-brackets (58x58mm) for the corners. Please share some views of your build.

very nice project. I started to print the parts and make the order at DOLD-Mechatronic and some stuff at Ebay.
This part here is very useful for the heatbed and gives a good hold to the models made of ABS, PLA or PETG. I ave a one on my Anet A8.
Perhaps the dealer will send it to other countries, you must ask him.
When I have finsished my project AM8, I will post some pics.

Will i need to drill or tap any holes in the extrusions?

Yes. If you order the misumi extrusions you will need to tap 4 holes with an M5 tap.

You can get holes pre-tapped from misumi for a very reasonable cost. You just need to specify which ends you want to tapped when you add the piece of extrusion in your cart.

is this frame really worht the upgrade and does it give better prints?

This may result in better prints depending on your setup, but the reason I'm upgrading is to cut out maintenance more than improving prints. If you don't have a frame like this, you will probably have to readjust and tighten the rods and nuts that hold your machine together every 2 months or so. I've found that the vibration of the machine loosen the connections over time. As far as prints go, if your axes aren't perfectly aligned, your printed objects will have skewed dimensions. So in that regard, this will improve print accuracy.

I'm sure this is a shot in the dark, but do you have the stl files for your x axis motor mount and idler, or a recommendation of which to download from thingiverse? I am upgrading to lead screws from threaded rods for the z axis along with the AM8 upgrade and must replace these x axis parts, but I am uncertain about compatibility regarding spacing between the lead screw and smooth rod. I downloaded the official files from Prusa's website, but their mounting holes for the lead screw nut was off (picture attached).

Holy cow that is close! LOL! I printed another Prusa-type version so I can have 45mm spacing between the rods and use the nifty X carriage that I wanted to use. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2328353 I printed that in Orange PETG and they turned out pretty awesome actually.

X Axis motor mount for Anet A8 or Prusa i3
by Randino

Thanks for the recommendation! Yeah I suppose the original prusa file was made for a slightly more wide lead screw or something. I will print the one you linked tonight and see how it compares.

Does anyone else have the issue of the y end stop not getting engaged? Y platform hits motor mount before making contact with y switch.

Did you resolve this? If not, try turning the H-frame up side down so that the cross bar is on top... Also, this way the belt mount will have a bit more space.

Yes. I edited a new y endstop and moved the switch a couple mm outboard. Works fine now.

The link is in the description: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832077

That should work for T and V slots

Linear Rail Slot Covers - Hide your wires!

awesome! Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Hey should I print the parts with ABS or is PLA fine?

I printed mine in PLA originally, and it's held up pretty well, even in an enclosure. I'm in the process of desinging and upgrade and I'm printing those parts, and some replacements, in ABS. I'd recommend PETG or ABS if you can.

I used PETG and it worked great. Others had success with PLA too.
I try to avoid ABS as it warps and its not very healthy. PETG is most of the time a better choice.

I'm done. How tf do i order these misumi brackets Without entering my Company(which i don't have)???

Just put your name in as the Company.

Thanks for answering. Should have come up with that Idea myself

Edit: Europe is unfortunately not an Option in Countrys. Anyway, i will find a way.

Hi Supernova69, you might try Dold Mechatroniks in Germany: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/AM8-Aluprofile-und-12-Winkel-20x20

Hi I was wondering how did you calculate the length of the extrusions for the x and y axis? I want to upgrade to a 300*300 xy build plate (boviously I need new rods and a new carrage (I can make those)) I just want to know where your measurements came from

The bed roughly needs to have travel room 1.5 times the bed length in the Y axis, plus extra room for nozzle clearance. I based my measurements off of the rod length though.

I would recommend against a 300x300 bed in a style with a moving bed. The bed will be heavy and force you to print slow. If you want that large of a bed, build a CoreXY.

alright, ill hold off on the 300*300 until my custom build, thanks for the reply

Comments deleted.

Ok, so I built this and it is nice and sturdy, but I cant figure out where to set the bed edges (When I print, the print is over to the left I would say about 30mm and towards the back by about 5-8mm). Can someone tell me where to either set the direct center of the bed (In relation to the print nozzle) or where to set the edges?

You will need to update your firmware and change the home position. To figure it out, home you X and Y axis. Then, using the LCD, move the head of the nozzle to the corner of the bed. Mark the X and Y position while the nozzle is at the corner. You need this to be 0,0 so take the ngative values of where you are at now and set that as your home position in firmware.

For example, if your printer is at 20X and 10Y when the nozzle is on the corner, set your home position in firmware to -20X and -10Y

Someone could help me with one information?
I need to know dimension of AM8
thanks in advance

The board mount holes don't line up with my A8's controller board holes. Has anyone come across this issue? It's the board that came with it.

Every Anet A8 is a little different it seems. Mine has a Melzi style board but others have a different board.

Anyone have the upgraded psu? I was measuring the stl for the psu holder and it isn't going to work with the upgraded one. Having a b** of a time finding one.

good observation. I will try to make an stl for that mount when I have the chance!

can you measure the bolt pattern on your psu for me? Center to center for the screws.I'll need distance from, lets say, the top to bottom, then the bottom to side.

For anyone in the UK (or Europe too I guess) who's having issues getting some of the Misumi corners, I've had a friend bring a load back from the US for my next build (I'm going to play with CNC routing). I've stuck them up on Ebay for now in case anyone in the UK is still trying to get hold of a few:


I would buy them, but the shipping to Europe is just to much.

Edit: Do you know by any chance a different Place to order them?

Firstly I'd like to say a huge thanks to Pheneeny, this (and his additional bits) is a great design, and a huge help to the maker community. I've personally learned a huge amount from building my machine, and all the time spent playing and fine tuning. I enclose pictures!

A couple of points if it helps anyone:

I've gone with this hotend: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Distance-J-head-Extruder-Cooling-Printer/dp/B01IBK12G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509976732&sr=8-2&keywords=e3d+v6&dpID=41TFw6bpw%252BL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It incorrectly shipped with a 0.3mm nozzle - took me a lot of PETG to diagnose that, but I learned a lot in the process. I'm using Pheneeny's recommended mount plate and cooling duct. The output quality is excellent, and the dimensional accuracy is impressive once you get it dialled in correctly.

I personally use Real filament PETG - it's nice and cheap, and the quality is good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Real-Filament-8719128328881-Spool-Opaque/dp/B01MG5QXLW/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1509993408&sr=1-1&keywords=real+filament+PETG&dpID=51RYunXwVZL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I use 220°C Extruder, 80°C hotbed and I get (almost) no corner warping. A brim helps there if you want it totally flat.

Definitely upgrade to Skynet - I'm using V2.3.1. It's worth it for the added safety features alone.

Pro-tip I learned - at the stock settings, without an enclosure the heated bed will struggle above 100°C. It will throw an error in the firmware ('thermal runaway' I think). If you're not using an enclose it's safe to crank the output voltage of the PSU up to 13.5V to give that little bit more power to the hotbed. I'm using 12 gauge wiring, and a MOSFET on both the bed and hotend.

I printed mine all in PLA, I've only replaced the cooling duct so far as it started to sag a bit when printing PETG.

I've had a few issues when wanting to replace extruder hardware so I made up a little bit of stripboard with PCB connectors so you don't have to de-loom the whole thing to get the heater cartridge or the thermistor cable out. Just be careful to take the hotend wire through the stripboard and solder direct to the pins on the PCB terminals.

I'll be printing up a new hotend mount in PETG, and adding a bit more strain relief for the main loom when my new extruder hardware gets here. I'm not happy with the stock attachment for the extruder motor, it's using a single countersunk M6 bolt and the threaded PTFE tube to secure it.

Hope that helps, and good luck to anyone else thinking of going down this route. I can absolutely reccomend it!

Has anyone had the Y belt tensioner on this mod actually fit each other part? There was NO-way these parts would slide together after printing them.

Rest of the parts were great.

I had to do a little bit of sanding, but then it fit perfectly.

If you work the two parts together for 5 minutes they will loosen and work freely

Yeah, I got them to fit perfectly by adjusting the horizontal offset from 0.00mm to -0.10mm when printing the Y block. This made the holes about 0.2mm wider without having to adjust the STL file itself. I printed the Y Belt Tensioner at 0.10mm layer heights and lowered the nozzle temperature for this object so the surface finish would be as perfect as possible. Picture attached.

if you mean the y tensioner check my tweaked file

Y Block with looser holes

So someone else did have tightness issues then.

I think there is a remix floating around with looser tolerances on the belt tensioner, but mine fit perfectly together.

Interesting, I used yours and had to sand the square prongs and open up square holes they went into. Both considerably. They appeared to be printed at exactly the same size. i.e. outside dimension equal to inside dimension. took considerable sanding. Printed beautifully just the same dimensions!

Thank you so much for the well-laid out plans, pheneeny. I've been working on upgrading my Reprapguru prusa clone to a version of your AM8 for a while and am getting near the end of the process. My question is regarding the PSU bracket. I am using a different PSU from that of the the Anet A8, and only one of the 3 screw holes lines up with the holes on my PSU (see picture). Would you happen to have a modified version of the mount for this type of PSU, or is there another existing design you would recommend? I have searched but none are as clean as yours. Thanks!

Sorry, I don't have any other bracket designs. If you. Have any experience with a CAD tool like Fusion, it shouldn't be too hard to make a bracket to fit those holes.

I've been teaching myself the basics of CAD, so I'll see if I can get a modified version up. Thanks!

If you can't get it, I also have the same issue, let me know the bolt pattern for your PSU and I'll see if it matches mine

From center to center, my top screw holes are 150mm from the bottom holes, and the bottom left is 50mm from the bottom right. I drew a diagram to visualize, attached below. Hopefully they match! I've run out of my 30 day free trial of Fusion 360, so I am looking for the best free option for stl editing until I can get a subscription to Autodesk. Have any recommendations?

Edit: There are also those 4 screw holes on the periphery of the unit which I included in the drawing but did not measure. I assume we are referring to the inner screw holes, but I can measure the other ones if they are relevant.

My Anet A8 has an arduino and ramps board. So, a completely different screen all together as I couldn't find any drivers for that LCD that came with the Anet with the five buttons. I am also using repetier so there is that.IS there any option display that I Can print for the LCD screen? Currently I'm using this one: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/3d-printer-reprap-smart-controller-ramps-lcd-control-with-knob.html?___store=en_us but I also have the full display screen I could set up.

There a website called Thingiverse.
If you head over to that site and type in the search bar " 2004 LCD Case" it will give you all the available print that have been submitted. Try looking at #10 or #11.
If that doesn't work, here's the link.

Good luck

Reprap LCD 2004 Case
by Motalw

Oh perfect, thanks man. Appreciated!

Hello all.

I converted my Anet A8 to this AM8 and i like the results a lot.
I don't know how to math very well. Does anyone know what would it take (length wise) regarding the aluminum extrusion if I want to build one with a 24inch heat bed and a height of 36 inches?
Thanks for the help.

I would not recommend that. If you want a bed that big, you should go with kinematics that has a stationary bed, like a CoreXY design. That would be a giant bed to move for the Y axis. Also, I don't thing 2040 extrusions would be sturdy enough for a build that big. Probably have to go 4040.

Not sure whether this has been mentioned before.
Anyone from the netherlands know where to buy the extrusions?
I have found a few sellers but they don't offer cutting service.

Hoi Deodutie,

Dold Mechatroniks from Germany has a pre-cut set available, check it out here: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/AM8-Aluprofile-und-12-Winkel-20x20

holy hell thank you so much

You're welcome! Nice eh? :-)

Where did you guys get all the screws and other materials? I can't find the exact screws at Dold Mechatroniks.

Helemaal Niks:
I pieced it together from eBay and other sources. Pretty sure I got my screws here: https://smoldersbv.nl/binnenzeskantbout-rvs-laagbolkop_1.html

Hope this helps!

So I am ordering all this right now. Just for future reference, if users are having trouble adding items to the cart @ the website it's because their shopping cart system is down, or not stable. So, what you need to do is go to the upper right hand corner (after making an account obviously) and choose the "Quote" section. Then you can manually enter the product ID's and quantities.

Is there any drawback to use M6 screws for bottom tapped holes ? (my retailer sells 2040 extrusions with 5mm holes half the price of those with 4.2mm holes)

Nope. You just have to buy different screws, and drill out the hole in the tee plate to fit the larger screw.

i am sorry but could you update the links in BOM.pdf because at least all the links of the extrusions shows the same thing, thanks a lot

I don't think I can link directly to the extrusion with the exact length. You will have to fill out the options on the left and enter the length you want.

you can also copy and paste the product name and add the length ( 440 ) behind it, that'll take you right to it to add the cart

Thanks for your help

This might sound like a silly question (or it might already have been answered and I missed it) but can longer 2040 be used, rods/leadscrews replaced with longer ones and a bigger heatbed put in to increase the printable volume to something like a CR10?

Yes, that should work fine, you would just need to fine the correct measurements. If you make it too big, you may need to move to bigger 10mm rods if the 8mm aren't rigid enough.

Hello, I'm planning this build for the winter. Could anyone say how tall is the complete assembly? I would try to place it in a library.

Just printed this out and ordered the parts off the BOM. On point! Thanks for the rigid and sturdy frame! Looking at the old acrylic frame and it is so easy to bend and move. This thing is a TANK.

Is it really necessary to have 4_Bottom_Corner_Plate and 2_Bottom_Tee_Plate? Are the cornes not enough?

Those plates help with aligning parts. They add a little rigidity too. The Tees help align the vertical towers


Can I use such an aluminium plate as heatbead holder?

Or will I get problems with the Y tensioner or the motor?


How many of each parts i have to print?

Thank you

If you read the files names. The lead number is the quantity you need. So...
'1_LCD_Base_Left.stl' you need 1 copy.
'3_Y_Rod_Holder.stl' you would print 3 copies.

do you still have full use of the bed as in you had on the regular Anet A8? cuz I just built this upgrade, everything is put togheter as in the Guide and i cant see anything different on ur pictures from my build. but the bearings on the bed hit the frame before the nossle can get enough far back to get full use of the bed (or front if I shift the arms back a bit)

Yes, I still have full access. Is your bed being stopped by the bed leveling screws hitting the rail mounts? I initially had to level the bed higher to clear the mounts, eventually I changed to shorter screws. Need to update the bom

dissregard what I said, Im an idiot. I fixed the problem I created xD

great and easy guide to follow (if ur not stupid as me :P )

thx for fast respons and that you were willing to help. I might get shorter screws aswell :)

My bearing blocks hit the frame as well. i will take a picture after i get dont printing.

On the BOM you list "corner brackets" but misumi calls them "reversal brackets". Corner brackets are something else that go inline with the extrusions instead of inside the joint.
Is there a reason you used single height brackets instead of double height brackets?

Thank you for the insight. The reason I used single height brackets was because I had them already. I made this frame almost entirely out of parts I already had leftover from an earlier project. So there may be some parts that are better suited, but I didn't want to publish instructions for parts I hadn't actually used.

Sounds like a good reason to me!
I doubt the double height brackets would make much of a difference and it's fewer blind nuts to try to get screws into!!

looking for a dual mosfet holder for 2 different mosfets? i made one:

Anet AM8 Dual Mosfet Holder

Can this be made with 4040 with a single channel extrusion?

No, or at least not without heavy modifications for each part, because they are designed assuming 2 slots for inserts and screws. Parts will also be more stable with these 2 fixation points instead of one.

I keep looking at this project an wondering if I could pull off upcycling some old computer case frames into something similar.

Hi, is PLA strong enough for the printed parts or would ABS be required?

PLA is definitely strong enough if it isn't exposed to a lot of heat. Most of my parts are still PLA and even in an enclosure they are doing OK, but I should swap them out in the future. PLA was cheaper to prototype with and I haven't gotten around to changing them yet

PLA can do the job if the printer isnt inside an enclosure :D

I used PLA at 50% infill and seems to be working just fine.

FYI Misumi has slightly changed their site URLs and the ones in the BOM don't launch to the proper pages.

The named supplier does NOT deal with Australians! Has any Aussie found a supplier of these:-

340mm 2040 Misumi HFS5-2040-340 qty 2
313mm 2040 Misumi HFS5-2040-313 qty 3
440mm 2040 Misumi HFS5-2040-440 qty 2

EDIT: Found RATRIG do a full A8 kit screws,nuts etc us$68 plus shipping ( us$38 to Au) can also get a painted black kit for a few $$$ more

Are these the exact measurements of what you need to build this. Thanks

Hi I ordered from the supplier on the BOM using a virtual post box in the US. Australia Post provide these

Hi antgeo, how much did this end up costing you to get them in Aus?

Hi alexcvnguyen, $125.71AUD was the total cost

That's amazing! Thanks for your reply mate, much appreciated :)

You could use Bosch Rexroth type extrusions, 20x40mm, if they're available where you're at. They'll fit the square nuts and are overall mostly the same dimensions, at least with the specifics this build asks about.

Just asking to be sure it's a good idea before I try to design it: do you think it would be possible to have the upper Z smooth rod holders also hold the leadscrews ? Using an adequately positioned ball bearing to make sure it doesn't restrain rotation, but still make sure that the Z leadscrews don't wobble.

And obviously I just need to post the question to find the answer myself: this has already been done https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2486553 (which according to the description is a remix of thaug29's design but I can't find the original part). So thanks!
I will print the AM8 soon.

AM8 Parts

Anyone having issues with the z posts seeming to far back when set at 127mm per the manual? Mine is exactly 127mm using one of the guides out there and when the extruder primes itself before a print, it misses the left front corner by about 10mm. I am tempted to move the z axis forward 10mm to compensate but not sure why I am getting different results than others if the 127mm measurement works. Comments/ thoughts would be appreciated.

I changed in the configution.h of SkyNet the setting #define Y_MIN_POS from -10 to 0 and all was well again; #define Y_MIN_POS 0

I am thinking of remixing the rod+Y end-stop block a bit, so the micro switch is a bit more to the back. This way the Y axis has a few millimeters more travel before hitting the switch, as there is still about 10 mm+ room between the extrusion and the bearing blocks.

Thanks, I was just looking at changing that exact configuration. I was planning to manually check the travel of the bed to make sure I don't lose 10mm in the process but I did notice that when XY are homed the position is the -33 and -10 per those settings. Just want to make sure I can move the bed a full 220mm. Otherwise, I may also try to do the rod_y end stop remix but it is a PITA to take everything apart again to swap that out. I already did that once because the bed thumbscrews were hitting the y end stop so I reprinted with the rounded side facing out. I will update once I have a chance to check this out. In some ways, good to see that I am not the only one having the issue.

So here is my assessment. You can't move the Y endstop switch back because the bed will hit the Y stepper motor if you do. You can only move it back maybe 1mm.

Mine bed is off by about 6mm currently with the -10 setting (i.e. when Y is homed, I am 4mm away from the edge of the bed).

Still considering options at this point.

OK, I think my plan of attack will be to reprint the y end stop with the switch back 1mm, just to get that little bit of extra travel for the y axis. I currently have very close and maybe a hair less that 220mm. Then I may move the Z extrusions back 3mm. This should put the extruder at the edge of the bed.

The other option I was considering was to drop the stepper motor a mm or two so the cross members of the bed mount clear the top of the stepper motor which would give me much more travel but would put the y axis belt on a bit of an angle which would not be good. I guess you could also raise the bed crossmember by putting in a spacer but that would likely reduce the 240mm Z axis height and would also put the stepper motor at an angle to where the belt anchors on the heated bed frame.

If I were to build over, I would have used 350mm or 360mm extrusions instead of 340mm. The acrylic on the Anet is 7.5mm thick so we lost about 25mm of travel / y rod with the AM8 design (20mm extrusion - 7.5mm acrylic = 12.5mm per side or 25mm). If you use a 350mm, instead of the y rod going flush with the front/rear extrusions, it would be inset 5mm on each side which would yield another 10mm of travel.

I will update once I make the tweaks to get the best out of my current setup.

Indeed, with 360mm you could have made remixed Y axis end stops which only clamp 10mm (so same size block with only 10mm of clamp on it) of the rod instead of the full 20mm. This way it will still look nice (as designed) but you have more travel. However for me the last amount of travel on the Y axis is not really important at this point so I will forget about this issue. I am thinking about building a Hypercube Evo and will use / dedicate the AM8 as my 'small' printer.

I will probably make due as well. Although new extrusions are only about $7 so I am tempted to go with 350mm to keep the size still as compact as possible but allow for some additional travel. I can always do this later if needed.

For now, I moved the Z axis towards the back 3mm and updated my settings in Marlin as follows...

define X_MIN_POS -31 // Changed from -33
define Y_MIN_POS 0 // Changed from -10
define Z_MIN_POS 0

I can now travel the full 220mm with just a hair of room. The stock AM8 setup allows for what I calculate as exactly 220mm. 340mm extrusion - 105mm distance end from end for the bed bearings - 15mm for the Y endstop switch = 220mm of exact travel. You can get a mm of extra travel by moving the Y endstop switch back 1mm but that's it short of using longer extrusions. 350mm would be good.

RatRig is also offering a bundle, minus the 3D printed parts: http://www.ratrig.com/cnc-and-3d-printing.html

(not affiliated, just purchased it and though I'd spread the news)

I just found out that Dold is now offering a Bundle: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Anet-A8
(I've bought my parts there before the bundle existed and ordered the parts seperatly so I can't say anything about it).

Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated in any way.

I also ordered mine from Mr. Dold but did not see this package. This is only the rails
BTW I used the more round I-type extrusion with 5mm

Is this the frame kit with nuts that is needed to build the frame it seems to be in German so I can't understand what it is and no picture thanks

Sorry for answering this late, but I got no kind of notification.

You can switch languages to english, (though it does not help much as the product description is still german.)
The kit has no nuts included as far as I can see.

Has anyone used corner fitting like this? Will they increase stability?



Yes, I have used similar fittings with four screws (see my build photographs) and find them more stable. One cannot use then in all corners though.

can i convert my ctc prusa i3(geetech prusa i3 clone) to this frame?

Im looking to do the same, it should be possible, the only major difference is that the A8 is wider than the ctc i3.
If you install the top profile on top of ze Z beams in stead of in between them, you're able to adjust the width of the entire frame, without having to cut any of the beams(It will just look a little weird). According to some quick measurements it SHOULD fit. It is however possible that there will not be enough clearance for the build platform.
If it there isn't its possible to adjust the width of the X-carriage(the rods go pretty deep into the printed parts). if the guide rods still arent long enough you can order longer ones to replace the original ones.
Which you could also do in the first place and just stick with the design as it is.

I've just ordered the parts and if you're still planning to do the upgrade i'd like to share the results with you.

Hi - I've been building my AM8 today, however, when I got to the stage where I have to install the z axis extrusion.. the right leans over to the side. It only does it when I try to install the tee bracket. Would you be able to help? Thanks in advance

Sounds like the T-bracket exerts some force. While diagnosis is tricky my guess is that i) everything is ok, a little bit of stress/strain is normal and it will straighten out if you put the top extrusion on, or ii) the holes in the print are maybe a bit smaller / asymmetric and you can drill them to the correct size or iii) your printed T-bracket has not exactly the right dimensions, which would mean that you have to check also your other printed parts and potentially calibrate your printer and print once more.

I have ordered all parts and printed all things waiting for the delivery of the profiles. I have a question, I read about changing the acceleration and jerk settings to get better print quality in your PDF with the AM8 frane, however you do not mention your current 'winning' settings on Skynet of Marlin. Can you please share your settings / changes ?

Many thanks for your time sharing this project with us!

I would also be interested in the 'official' settings by pheneeny. My experience is that the default settings of jerk = 20 is a bit much and I reduce it to 10 - 15 in Skynet/Marlin to reduce ringing, which is otherwise clearly visible on the X face of a calibration cube (ringing depends also on how hot and liquid your PLA is etc). My acceleration is 300 - 400, and I do not find print speeds between 30 and 60 mm/s to affect quality so much (jerk and acceleration are more (?) important), because Cura 2.6 prints the outer perimeter slower anyway.

To summarise, for best print quality I use:
acceleration = 300 or 400
jerkx = 15
jerky = 10
print speed = 30 mm/s
layer height in multiples of 0.04, e.g. 0.08 for extremely nice quality.

All in all the new, sturdy frame has improved the quality, with the above setting quality is more or less the same as a well tuned Ultimaker 2 which I can compare prints with.

I did some testing with xyz calibration cubes and different settings. The winning settings at this moment;

Less / almost no ringing;
acc = 1000
jerkx = 15
jerky = 10

Faster printing more ringing around X and Y;
acc = 1000
jerkx = 20
jerky = 20

I needed to change acc to 1000 or else all the corners on the cube did bulge a bit, changing fixed this problem. On the cube I could not see much change in quality and printing time for changing to 60mm/s (I did change the maximum allowed speed in the firmware).

My printer is alive! I will post some pictures on a 'make' very soon.

Did you try to change the default speed in the slicer from 40mm/s to for example 60mm/s ?

I am currently printing a xyz-calibration cube with the current jerk/acc settings and will then change them to you settings to print another one to see the difference.

Thanks for your settings. I am in the progress of fitting the AM8 together, the frame is constructed and perfectly angle and sturdy. The Anet is just an empty frame at this point. However the carriage left Z-axis LM8LUU bearing broke down during measuring and aligning, some balls fell out and I have to wait for the new bearings to arrive. I am ordering better quality Misumi bearings for the whole printer which hopefully will arrive at Tuesday. I am using Igus Drylin at the moment for the X and Y axis, and I am think about swapping them for Misumi ball bearings as well, as the Igus bearings have some play and are not as smooth as I thought they would be. TBC!

Is there a particular reason why you use the more expensive hfs profiles instead of the the cheaper nfs?

I'm not familiar with NFS profiles, but I had HFS on hand when I designed and built this.

Why is the position of the Z-column restricted to 127mm from the back? It seems to me that absolutely anywhere along the y-axis would be find as long as both columns are at the same level.

The bed is limited in distance it can move by when the bearings hit the rod holders. At 127, the x axis is placed at a point where the hotend can cover the entire bed. Too far forward or backward would cause the hotend to not be able to reach parts of the bed.

pheneeny...see my post above, I had to move mine to 123mm to cover the full bed given the Y axis only covers 220mm of travel, I needed the Y axes to be at Y0 when homed.

Comments deleted.

You now could get these parts really really cheap in the Banggood Anniversary Sale with up to 11% Discount:


Hi all,
In term of space are the external dimensions still similar to the original Anet A8 or is bigger?

Yes the dimensions are nearly the same, maybe the width is reduced by a few cm, and the length is increased by several cm due to the display mounted in the front. It is much easier to move around, but I still have to level the bed after moving it.

Thanks, this is exacly what I wanted to know since I need to place the printer in a tight space.
Also I move it often so I hoped that the alu frame was enough to keep it leveled... too bad. I guess I'll fix the printer on a plywood baseplate or something similar

I just re-tightned all screws as they got a bit loose during the first prints, and maybe when moving carefully one will not have to re-level the bed. Maybe others can share their experience. I guess fixing the printer one a wooden plate is the cheapest way to get it stable. On facebook there even was a post of an A8 print farm with several fixed printers which seem to print reliably.

Thightening the screws after the first few prints did the trick, now the heatbed stayed aligned after I carefully moved it.

I'm wondering one thing, why use v-slot rail and not use v-slot roller and still use the linear bearing and rods ( that are much more giving than the rails ) ??

This doesn't use V-Slot, this uses T-Slot extrusions. The T-Slots are cheaper and can be cut to size when ordered.

Oh oups my mistake ! Thanks for the precision. Do you think V-slot with V-roller would help much, or the frame as you designed it took care of 99% of the problem ?

V slot would probably be better than the stock rails and bearings of the A8, but I don't know if you would see a big difference.

Just finished my AM8, great design, thanks.

Has anyone tried higher acceleration values in Marlin/Skynet as mentioned in the build guide? With what results?
What are your printing speeds?

Regarding the discussion of using longer extrusions on the side: In Skynet/Marlin pause works fine without collision, and no build volume is lost by building according to the exact instructions by pheneeny (I tested pausing and build volume). Therefore I think building according to the instructions by pheneeny is good and gives you a compact machine (with Marlin/Skynet). I also would suggest to use Skynet / Marlin, because the stock firmware did not recognise when my heating cartridge came loose. I already had the smell of burnt plastic, when luckily I noticed it and could switch off the printer.
I have no collisions between the wing nut of the heatbed and the rod holder in the front and left back (if rod holders /clamps are correctly oriented, different from pheneeny's instrucftions). There is a collision in the back right with the y-endstop clamp, and I think the existing remix of this part might be better than the original - will have to try the remix myself, until then one wing nut is not used.

After a few prints I can confirm previous posts: printing at 100 mm/s gives me pretty bad ringing, printing at 50 mm/s is ok, but ringing is still a bit worse than printing at 30 mm/s with the old frame. One thing I notice is that the threaded rods for z movement vibrate a lot which may be a problem. Now I put a bearing holder without bearing but some some tape there to dampen any movement and will see whether things improve. Putting a bearing on the top of the z rods will also help against vibration, but may also introduce problems if the threaded ro is not perfectly straight.

Ringing is not my problem. After upgrading to the AM8 frame I have extreme wobble in X and Y direction. Can't figure out what the problem is. :(

From your renderings, it shows you have modeled the complete assembly.
Can you post step files of the completed assembly? It would help to make measurements
and allowances for those that cannot get the exact same parts or lengths locally, such as myself.

I came into a problem, the carriage crashes into the front of the frame when you pause.

doing this in repetier solves it
SDCard.cpp there are these lines:


Printer::moveToReal(Printer::xMin, Printer::yMin + Printer::yLength, IGNORE_COORDINATE, IGNORE_COORDINATE, Printer::maxFeedrate[X_AXIS]);


change to
Printer::yMin + Printer::yLength - 25

You will have to ask someone familiar with marlin if you are on that.

have a look at his' design: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2462104
he uses 364mm extrusions to prevent this from happening.

Anet AM8 Variant
by ranita

See my posts above. You can just barely get 220mm of travel with the 340mm extrusions but it takes some tweaking with moving the Z extrusions and updating firmware settings in Marlin.

Comments deleted.

I must have done something wrong on the website, because I'm looking again, and the prices are pretty close.

Hi, i have a doubt.
Would this model work with normal T nuts and normal 2040 extrusions?

The Square nut listed do not work with this profiles. They are too thick; ~4.0mm and the profile is less than 4.0mm. How did you use those m5x.8 nut with those Frame profiles????

Yes I bought them to match the BOM and found they are too thick like you say. I had to order some tee nuts instead at £25 (I didn't fancy grinding 2 edges off of 110 nuts to make them fit). You might need to update the BOM to stop other people wasting money on nuts that dont work. I wonder how is everyone else building it without this problem?! Great otherwise though, so thank you Pheneeny :)

Can't agree more. The same happend to me.
Please update the BOM. Appreciate.

The square nuts can't slide into the slots through the end of the extrusion?

The BOM calls for square nuts, but what you've linked to are DIN 562 (thin) square nuts. Standard square nuts are too thick.

what is the measurement from back of the frame to where the x/z tower location?

read the build guide, everything is there

Hello everyone!

Can someone please tell me whether there are these Corner Bracket´s HBLFSNF5 also in Germany to buy?!?!?
Would be grateful for any help.

Best regards,

have a look at dold mechatronik. I ordered my 2040 and nuts and brackets etc. And finished my raw frame yesterday. M5x10 screws were too long for some parts beause the metal corner brackets are thinner than the printed ones. Use a washer or M5x8 screws. Also I had to enlarge the hole of the 20x20 L-brakets in order to fit both screws at once

If you still have functional 3d printer, you can print corner brackets your self, you can find some designs, or you can design them your self.
That is what I did.

For the corners is doesn't matter any that fit into 20X20 extrusions. The problem is the where uprights, connect to the bottom frame I used these though I had to file off the lugs where they stopped the bracket laying flush

or the corners I used these

@ranita and pheneeny

Thank you for your explanation.
Fortunately, I still have left aluminum and will implement your proposal with 364mm.

Very good work.

What is still really missing is how I already wrote, a technical drawing with correct infos for the assembly.

Motors mounting where is the center in the alignment etc.

Will be finished soon (hope)

Thanks again to both of you.

can anybody share endstops to buy ?

If you looking for end stop switches, you can get them on Amazon or Aliexpress.com

Can i upgrade my zonestar to this frame?

Yes, I have made total conversion from Zonestar P802N https://www.thingiverse.com/make:351124

AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8

I've acquired the extrusions and screws, a set of motors and electronics, the Z screws, p/s and printed most of the brackets / braces. Still to do is printing the motor mounts and buying the hot bed, carriage and possibly a dual extruder. My electronics/ps will be mounted into a spare mid-tower pc case so not bothering to print the parts for mounting the boards, pi, mosfets.... I'm not worried about losing a little print volume so long as it isn't ridiculous.

It sounds like some have had trouble with assembling the frame. I guess I probably will too, but that is part of the deal. We get to apply our ingenuity to solve problems as they crop up. Can you imagine trying to integrate this technology 50 years ago?

Does anyone have thoughts specifically on dual extruders (one for printing, one for dissolving infill) and on autolevelling on glass?

I've been looking at a pair these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQISR7E/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_18?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2HOVXAX5GDOG1) but unclear on how the filament is fed. Is the motor and pinch relocated off the hot end carriage?

Auto level - I'd purchased a BL Touch through Amazon and it was either DOA or I busted it while tinkering. I have found that the inductance version does not work well with glass. I'm going to try one last time with bits of foil tape applied to the glass at the test points. Any OTHER ideas to get either variety working well on glass?

And lastly, WTH is with getting that first ratted first layer or three down? If I get past the first few layers my prints seem to come out fine. Good enough for my purposes anyway. But it seems to be a matter of luck and prayer to get past those...

Namedpipes, By not extending the side extrusions, you are not only losing print volume, you are also losing the ability to pause the machine.
You should not have troubles assembling this machine, Pheneeny did a good job at describing the assembly and when it comes to first layer adhesion, no matter how much you pray, it will not be right unless you have the proper distance from bed to nozzle, proper bed preparation as for example for pla, salt water spreaded evenly on the glass while at 60ºc with a damped tissue so when water evaporates while you are spreading, will leave a smooth fine coat of salt behind and believe me there is nothing better than this for pla, of course you can also use blue tape, hair spray, etc. For ABS Kapton tape on glass at 95ºc, PETG on Kapton tape at 70ºc. You must experiment with different nozzle temps, not all machines behave the same.

So now times plaintext

what is now with AM8 with 364mm bed rods and 340mm discussion what is correct can please someone clarify.

We give money out for alu parts loudly list which are also expensive, and in the end it's all wrong and then does not fit together.

What is the nonsense?

Simple question simple answer is the compatibility with original dimensions of A8 manufactured or not.

If not what then.


Yes and please is there still more errors, has someone something like a checklist
I already print all parts of the BOM list time, money to experience postpone “oh, but this is not suitable or this is too high or faulty.”

Sorry I created all this confusion,
All I did is replaced the 340mm extrusion listed in the BOM of this printer with 364mm extrusions when I built mine, that way I recovered the 24mm lost in length back to front and enabled ability to pause the machine.
If you assemble it with 340mm, the heat bed will collide with the front.
By using 364mm side extrusions, you bring it to the original anet a8 form and function dimensions.
And for the already printed parts, do not worry, you can still use the same parts.
I hope that Pheneeny analyze my change and approves for his machine.
Again I greatly thanks him for his contribution, His design allowed me to have a good superior workin