Prusa I3 MK2 Camera Mount

by tbergman8 Apr 21, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

If I recall correctly, you remove the front trim from the camera, and then you can see a small Phillips screw at the base, removing this allows the mount to slide out. I cant remember I f this is behind the circuit board, if so a couple of other screws may als have to be removed.

"The Logitech C615 needs to have its mount removed which leaves behind a D shaped opening. "

How does one remove the mount?

Does anyone know if this will work on the Mk3?

Thank you I will give it a try.

I printed out of PLA and the part the opening that fits over the ball joint is to small and snaps one side off. Are you doing this out of ABS or can it be done with PLA?

I've not seen this issue and the one I'm using is printed in PLA. PLA varieties do have variations in flexibility and, of course, the tolerances when 3D printing vary quite a bit. If it helps, I printed this using PLA from AIO Robotics, mostly because they have such a nice orange color. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HYYPIVA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I were re-printing this, my tendency would be to use PET-G because it's not brittle like PLA.

Edit - Looking at the picture I realize that I may not have used PLA for this part. I'm not positive what I used, it may have been PET-G. Sorry for the confusion.

FYI if you're running the 40mm noctua fan mod this won't work when the extruder is at the left endstop.

Remixed to include a longer arm to work with the Noctua Fan Mod for Mk2/Mk2S.

I like this set up. However since the camera doesn't lock down over the ball head, vibration could shake it and move it out of position. If you could, using a ball head lockdown type connection would be a great addition.

There's very little movement on this carrier. It only goes up and down. It hasn't moved for me yet (except when I bump it) but I like the idea. Do you know of an example that uses some type of lock down? I'm not sure I know what you mean.

Here is an idea of what I was thinking. Instead of a quarter turn, I've seen these connectors use a threaded nut to increase tension. However using the quarter turn nut could be enough to ensure it doesn't vibrate and move.

Locking ball and socket arm

I actually downloaded and printed the quarter turn parts and wasn't very happy with the way it worked. It may be tolerances but it was extremely stiff to turn the lock piece and when locked, the ball could still move, although not as easily. Even locked, mine seems about as stiff to move.
I'm pretty happy with the way it works now. There's enough friction that the camera never moves.
I am intrigued by the idea of a threaded socket and may see if I can make that work well,