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Empiricus

Wanhao D6/Monoprice Drive Block for Flexible Filaments

by Empiricus Apr 29, 2017
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Do you know if this would work for a duplicator i3 v2?

I don't. Just print and see if it fits

i read that every extruder mk9 and beyond use the same feeder parts so it should work. I believe it needs to be mirrored though. I can do that easy enough. I will post a make if i do it. cheers.

So I had to mirror it but it does "work." when i try very soft filament it doesn't squeeze enough. The idler wheel touches the printed part before it can squeeze the filament fully. pla works fine and i'm assuming some of the less soft flexible filaments will work as well. I'm thinking of what to try next. Maybe try to sand it down so that it will squeeze or a diff mod. Just in case you were wondering

I would sand down the the area for the lever wheel to get better pressure applied.
This was made for the Micro-swiss lever for the Wanhao D6 so the diameters of the wheels may be different. You also need sharp teeth on the transport wheel and good pressure from the idler wheel for this to work with flexibles.

So i put the stock parts on just to test, and the idler wheel literally has to touch the gear for it to grip enough. I might just try stock and see what happens.

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Thanks Empericus! I can now print TPE.
Suggestion: the hole for the stepper's alignment collar should be smaller. Currently it has enough movement to bind up the drive gear. Sanding the part above the drive gear got around that. The guide above the drive gear is why I chose this part over another, to make loading filament easier. However, tight clearance above the drive gear isn't important. so the model could be a bit more lenient there.

Also, I ended up drilling out the bottom guide hole for a chisel-pointed PTFE tube to better support the filament and reduce friction. Tip for anyone who goes this route: hole position needs to be pretty accurate. My first hole, aligned by eye, wasn't good enough to print non-flexibles. Second try, I put a smaller bit in the drill press to line up the printed hole, clamped the part there, then swapped bits to drill the larger hole. Much better!

Thanks for the feedback. Suggestions are always appreciated. The tolerances are tight here and it is difficult to have a version that fits all different gears, filaments and settings being used. Might make changes when I need to print a new one although didn't notice any abrasion etc yet. The part on top is there for stability and prevent wrapping during operation when the stepper/extruder is getting hot.

Would it be possible to open the gear hole a little bit, I have have the d4 gear and it doesnt fit.

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awesome, printing it now! ill lyk.

Probably easier to just sand the inner diameter with 320 grid. Every filament and setup might create slight variations. Don't have a d4 gear what is the exact diameter in mm?

Its a commoon upgrade to the id and the d6. I may reprint it with more perimeters , when i was sanding it i broke through my walls. Its a 12mm OD gear

I can see if I find one. These tight adaptations required a lot of test prints and corrections to make sure that the filament is transported nicely also during retractions and also can be removed easily. The upper entry is part of this as well. Looks like a simple mod but it is not. I have a whole bunch of gears that I tested before I settled on the one I mentioned in the description. It is easy to take the stl file import into fusion 360 convert to BPrep and adapt to your needs.

How many perimeters and what infill % do you suggest?

I used 2 perimeters and 100% infill. 5 bottom and 5 top layers.. Simplify 3D.