Tevo Tarantula Control Box

by rebeltaz Apr 30, 2017
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I don't see anything about it in the comments, but the cover for the potentiometer on my LCD is completely different and I can't figure out how to detach it in order to get the display to fit on the panel. I'm not even sure it is a cover, since I can't find a single TT LCD online with the same button. I've attached a picture of it. Any help is much appreciated.

lol... you had me dor a second when you said "cover." You mean the knob itself, right? That is odd. I've never seen one like that on a Tarantula. I'm wondering if you got this new or previously used where someone may have replaced the factory original with that one?

In any event, that should just pull right off. It may be snug, so you may have to rock it back and forth slightly as you pull upward. If that doesn't work, you might have to take two small flat head screwdrivers and use those as levers, one on each side, and gently pry up on the knob, using the top of the potentiometer itself as a prying point. Don't use the board to pry against, though, as that could crack it much more easily.

Having said that, I can't see the other sides of that knob, but a thought just occurred to me. There is also another type of knob possible where the knob is held in place with a set screw. If you look around the knob, do you see a small, maybe 1 or 2mm hole or allen head screw? If you do, you would need to loosen that up first before trying to pull the knob upwards. Make sure that this isn't the case before prying the knob, because if it isheld in place with a set screw, you could break the potentiometer.

I don't know what else I can do to help, but let me know if you can't get it off... and I would really appreciate it if you could post a [Make] of your box once you get done! It helps people find my models Thanks!

Tevo Tarantula Control Box

I'll definitely post a make when my box is done, I'm just not there yet! As for the knob - there is no set screw on either side and no matter how hard I pull upward and rock it back and forth, it doesn't come off. Could it be that it's part of the potentiometer itself? Maybe my best course of action is to make the panel's hole bigger.

"Could it be that it's part of the potentiometer itself?"

I want to say no, because I cannot remember ever having come across a potentiometer where the knob was a fixed part of that unit. For the simple reason that pots are designed to be used in user-friendly environments which typically means a panel of some sort. In order to install a circuit board behind a panel, the knob must be able to be removed so that you can slide the shaft through the hole in the panel and then you would replace the knob.I'm not saying that for some reason, Tevo didn't secure that knob to the shaft somehow, but that would be highly unusual, to say the least.

I would hate for you to have to make the hole bigger than the knob just to get it to fit, but I suppose that is a better option than breaking the control. Try gently prying with a couple of screwdrivers before you resort to bigger holes, just be careful not to crack anything. I've had to do that on many knobs over the years....

Yep, using a screwdriver helped and I got the cover off. It all fits like a glove now! Posting the make soon. Thanks for the help! :)

Glad to hear it. You are so welcome :)

I remixed the base so it can be used with an MKS GEN L and dual mosfets. Here is a link if anyone is interested.

Remixed based for MKS GEN L and dual mosfets for Tevo Tarantula Control Box
by Siam3D

Awesome job. I'm happy to see that this can be used for printers other than the Tarantula. Thanks for uploading.

You photo shows an insert for the reset button but I cannot find an stl for that. Did you print one? Can you uload the stl? Thanks.

Thanks for the link.

If you print my case, I'd love it if you could upload a [Make] of it. Since I've been shadowbanned here, [Makes] are the only way I have of getting my models out to the people of Thingiverse :)

lol... I'm sorry. I should have put this in the description. I printed this one by thingirob.

Tevo Tarantula SHTF Button

i wonder if you'd be interested in making or modifying this to fit a raspberry pi3 7" touchscreen along with the pi3, mks gen L board, mosfets, and a couple fans for cooling? kind of like "field of dreams" if you design it i will print it...lol. my mks gen L board arrives today and i was looking and this caught my eye.

lol... you don't ask for much, do you? I wish I could, but I really don't have the time right now to completely redesign this - especially for hardware I don't actually have access to. I'm sorry....

Hello, At what time do you print this project??

I don't know. I kind of like starting my prints between 10pm and midnight. lol.... I don't quite understand that question.

He prints the bottom and shows me over 15 hours. Maybe the resolution is too high ... what do you recommend?

Oh... you mean how long does the print take. Yeah, with an infill of 10-20% and a layer height of 0.2mm, 10-11 hours for the base plate is probably about right. You can try printing at 0.3mm layer height to reduce that to about 8 hours, but it is a large print so it does take quite a while.

OK, It's clear....I print with the layer height 0.1mm and infill 20%..

Is there anyway you can make the back plate fit the MKS Gen L v1.0 board and the Raspberry Pi 3?

Okilly Dokilly.... I have uploaded the backplate for that. Hopefully it's correct. If not, if there are any issues, just let me know and I will be happy to fix that for you.

Everything lines up well Thanks!

Awesome! So glad to hear it. If you get a chance... I'd love it if you could post a make of it.

Thanks I will let you know, Waiting on the board from China may be a while...lol.

I looked and I found a model of the Gen L board on GrabCAD so, let me see what I can do.

Thanks for looking into this.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Sent from 3D Geeks: Thingiverse Browser for Android

Thank you :) If you happen to print this, I'd love it if you'd upload a Make of it.

Tevo Tarantula Control Box

This has been quite frustrating to assemble. The printing went fine, the concept design is great. Putting all the panels together is a test of patience. I tried and 3 x 5 mm and it was very frustrating to get a lot of them in. Then I tried and 3 x 8 mm which seem to work better. I am this close to leaving the back panel off because it’s so tricky so get the two screws in to hold the back panel to the base.

Ok... I'm not sure what I am looking at here, but I do see what looks like a little warping on the front left corner of the top plate? I

s that the MKS-Gen board that you're using there? I haven't personally verified that version of the base plate since I do not own that particular board. I made that for someone based on a CAD model I found on here. Is that where you are having trouble with the holes? If no, then which holes do you seem to be missing and can you show exactly where in photos?

As for the 8mm versus 5mm.... I didn't have any trouble with the 5mm length, but if 8mm works better for you, I don't see any reason not to use those.

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I'm confused on the size of the screws. The 25 is it 25mm m4 bolts? and 5mm m3? Thanks
3mmx5mm screws x32
4mmx25 screws x4

You need thirty two screws that are 3mm diameter by 5mm length; and four screws that are 4mm diameter by 25mm length. Sorry... I never noticed that I forgot to put mm after the 25 until just now and no one else has ever pointed that out! I will fix that... I'd love to see your case if you make it.

I'm not sure if those will be quite long enough. The holes are designed for flat bottomed heads, where the head sits flush with the material. Those screws are beveled and are meant to be countersunk into the material.

Des this case work with the MKS GEN_L V1.0 board? when i printed the base and tried to do a test fit of the board the holes didn't line up.

I just looked at a photo for that board and I don't think so. This was designed specifically to fit the MKS-Base v1.4 board that comes stock on the Tarantula. Sorry.

Do you think you could modify the base to fit that board? Totally understand if you can’t though, it’s still great design!, and the mks gen L is the stock board that came with my tarantula so I might just be out of luck haha

OK.. I have uploaded a new base and back plate that should fit the MKS Gen L v1.0 board. I found a CAD model on grabcad that I used. If something doesn't fit, just let me know and I'll see if I can fix it.

Thank you so much!

Really? Hmmm... let me see if I can find a model of that board to use as a guide and I will give it a try.

Correct me if I'm wrong Is the case_h-sideL hole is for the SD card right?

As in how? It is correct as far as in that it fits. Or do you mean some other way?

I don't have a pi so I'm trying to find a case where I can fit my lcd, mks gen L board and a mosfet. Also I want to print using an sd card

This case isn't specifically designed to fit the MOSFET, but if you're not installing the pi, you could probably mount the MOSFET in it's place. It's designed so that you can insert and remove the SD card with relative ease. The card doesn't stick out, but you can grab the edge and pull it out.

Are you sure about the screw sizes?

3mmx5mm screws x32
4mmx25 screws x4
4mm nuts x4
4 washers x8
6x2 barrier strip x1 (optional)

The 32 screws are perhaps .5mm instead of 5mm?

No.. they're 5mm long. I just took one out to measure it to me sure.

my bad, was thinking cm not mm. But still trying to locate in Canada.

lol.. no problem. I usually order these from China via eBay. You can get 100 for next to nothing.

For the 32 screws that hold the case together? Those (in the link) are 4mm screws, aren't they? The screws you need to assemble the case are 3mm.

Awe, yes. It will take me longer to get the hardware than it did to print the parts! LOL.

If you will give me your address, I will see if I can't get some screws sent your way.

That's fine, I have already order qty of them and should have them in the not too distance future.

what is the purpose of the RaspPI and the mosfet?

I'll start with the MOSFET, because it is the most important. The control board that comes with the Tarantula, I'm told, is not rugged enough to handle the amount of current required to run the heater. There are reports of connectors melting and, in rare cases, even fire. Using a MOSEFT unloads that current to an auxiliary device that is more suited to run source high current drains.

The Raspberry Pi is used to run a program called OctoPrint. This program allows you to control the printer remotely from anywhere on your network, or even over the internet if configured properly. The Pi isn't really necessary and if you just want to use the USB connection or the SD card, you don't have to install it.

Oh cool! Thanks for explaining. My mosfet is arriving tomorrow. I’m going to print your enclosure for that. Where do you put your mosfet in relation to this case and the power supply?


lol... people should never use me as an example, unless it's an example of what NOT to do :) I focus more on function over form. I've attached a photo of my setup. You can see the enclosure on the far left. To the right, and slightly on top of, that, I have a wooden... bridge, I guess, on top of which I mounted the filament roller. Under that, the little purple box with a white lid is a relay board I'm using to interface the capacitive sensor to the controller. to the right of that, you can see my power supply. She's still naked, but I like her that way :) On top of the power supply is where the MOSFET lives. And on top of that is a USB hub for the Raspberry Pi. She ain't pretty, but she shore do work good :)

You know... re-reading that, I took it to mean physical location since you specifically said "enclosure", but did you mean instead how was it wired?

Haha thanks for the visual! I appreciate it..Got my MOSFET and printed out your other enclosure..What is the white two-pronged wire for? where does it connect to?

Also, for this PCB control box..do you find it easy to swap out red heating wires for changing hotends? or do you need to unscrew the PCB from the case just to get to the receptacles?

The white connector on the MOSFET? That goes to the connector where your heat bead was originally connected on the Tarantula's mainboard.

To swap the wires for the hotend, I do find that it's easier to remove the fan to get to those connectors, but you shuoldn't have to pull the mainboard out to get to them.

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could the mosfet be installed inside of this case? Instead of separately?

Absolutely. I had just already printed the separate case so I didn't want to bother with moving it.

How do you get the printing on the case to print a different colour than the case itself?

In my case, I just painted the letters after the print was finished, but a lot of people pause the print as soon as the letters start printing, swap the filament and then restart the print.

thanks, that maybe easier.

The fan what direction is the air flow, in to the box or out?

You can direct it which ever direction you'd like. I like having the air pulled though the front, over the boards, and blown out through the fan, but you could also suck air in and force it out through the front vents.

I'm using the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller can you add that panel or provide the step file so I can modify the current panel. Thanks, and nice design by the way.

I designed this in Sketchup. I can provide you the .skp file if you'd like. If you can point me to a model of the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller, I can give it a try....

If u modify it pls let me know. I need it too.
Thanks !

here is a dummy STL file in found on here.

Oh, wow... that's more like a re-design. I'm not sure I'd be able to do that in a timely fashion. I'd be happy to share the skp if you want.

sure ill take the slp of the display panel and give it a shot...thanks

I didn't even notice... I've already uploaded the source file. It's [case_h.skp] in the files section. That includes all of the individual components. That was created in Sketchup 2014, but any version 2014 or newer should be able to open it. If you do modify it, I hope you'll upload a copy to share with the rest of the class :) Have a Happy new Year~!

Can you please make a spool holder on the top/side?

Do you have anything specific in mind? Maybe something you've seen that I could incorporate? I don't know if you've seen it, but I have these two models - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2502830 -and- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2241377 ... Maybe something like that built onto the top panel?

Filament Bearing Sleeve - Standalone -or- Companion to YAFSH
YAFSH - Yet Another Filament Spool Holder

Maybe something like the Creality CR-10. A built in spool holder.

I'll see what I can do, but it will probably be after Christmas.

Could you add a remix for the Raspberry Pi 3 (V2)? You say it'd be easy to remix but I've yet to dive into that realm of 3D Printing...

Is this the board that you have - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2106235 ? If it is, I can see what I can do for you. I don't have a Pi 3, so I'll have to work form a model.

Raspberry Pi 3 Motherboard

Yes, that looks correct. Thank You.

OK. I've uploaded the new files for you. Let me know if they work or not. If the Pi doesn't fit, let me know where it needs to be modified so that it will. And when you get it done, if you'd be so kind as to post an [I Made One]. I'd really appreciate it :)

Finally got it done. Fit like a glove. The only comment I have is you may want to increase the size of the hole for the wires (bottom right when looking at the box from behind) as it was a tight fit for 4 motors, wires, and rasppi cable. I had to play tetris to get it all ran.

Correction, there was one slight issue I had. The screw holes for the pi we too small to match the screws I had already bought. I had to to enlarge them a bit, but was able to make it work.

I'm glad to hear it worked out for you. I'll try to make the hole bigger. Any suggestion on size? I'd love it if you'd do an [I Made One] showing your make. Thanks again.

I submitted a Made One Yesterday. As for the hole, if you mean the screw hole for the pi, I don't think you need to do anything. Just using something sharp (scissors, knife, cutters, etc), makes it easy enough to expand. For the cable hole, I think increasing the length to half a cm to a cm longer will be more than enough.

Sorry about that. I didn't see the Make until just now. It looks good! Yeah, I meant enlarging the cable hole. Others have mentioned that in the past, as well. Funny thing... today, I had to extend one of the stepper cables on mine. Since building my box, I've added a few cables here and there. I was unable to get the connector through the hole! lol... So yeah, I know what you mean. I will try to extend that a tad and also make it a tad it taller, too. Thank you for all of the suggestions.

Will do, thank you again. It'll likely be later this week though (thurs or Friday), as I'm in middle of the lack table revamp and waiting on some wires to come in the mail.

Additionally, Could you also remix the back panel to include a hole for the network jack on the Pi (I Prefer Hard Wire Connections For Streaming The Camera)?

Hola , saludos desde Buenos Aires , recién compre la tarántula y me encantó esta caja , muy bien lograda , tengo todo suelto y estoy tratando de imprimirla , pero tengo un inconveniente , la cara externa de cualquiera de las partes no me dale lisa ,yo estoy imprimiendo con pla negro y no se que hago mal , disculpe mi ignorancia pero doy nuevo en esto , ahora pusu unvidrio y laca , pega muy bien , no se levanta , pero la terminación interna es mejor que la que apoya sobre la cama , lo puedo solucionar , muchas gracias y felicitaciones por tan buen trabajo .

You will have to bear with me... I had to use Google Translate. Can you post a photo somewhere and link to it here? I don't really understand the trouble. I'd be happy to tray and help if you can give me a little more information. English would be great if you can, so I don't have to rely on Google's flawed translations.

No hay problema , no se escribir en hingles , lo entiendo solamente , gracias igual , si encuentro la forma le envió el link , gracias

hola soy de Buenos Aires también, mandame un mensaje privado y te ayudo por ahi, por lo que contás chequea el bed leveling, saludos

Love the robosapien in the background.

lol... I didn't even know he had snuck into that photo! He's just one of my legion of bots :)

Good work,
this is most needed for Tarantula
it hide so many wires and give the space back for X and Z axis

it would be great if you minimze the size to use less desktop space, or find solution to put it over PSU
or if you add an "add-on" filament roll holder above it, so it can use the current roll space

Thank you :)

Actually, thew reason I made this was because the other ones that I found here took up WAY too much space. What the size of the LCD control board, the mainboard and the raspberry pi, this was about as small as I could make it. I think there is another LCD panel that you can get online that is not as wide as the original. With that, you could make the box narrower, but since I don't have that display... this is about as small as my design gets :)

You might want to take a look at this design - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1760296 - as he has incorporated a PSU into the case. For me, I like the power supply out in the open - kind of a frankenstein vibe going on :)

Tevo Tarantula Extended Case

Hey @rebeltaz, love this box, I am on my way to printing the LCD Panel portion and can't for the life of me get the correct angle degree to get it completely flat, would you or anyone that has printed this have the actual degree angle to make it 100% flat? I am a NOOB so bear with me please. Thank you.

No problem at all. Always here to help :)

I want to say that the angle is 38°. That looked flat when I loaded it in Cura and rotated it to that degree. If you are using Cura, there is also a plugin that you can use that calculates the optimum angles at which to print. Click on the object, then in the menu select [Extensions->OrientationPlugin->Calculate Optimal Printing Orientation]. It's not always perfect, but it does often help put you in the right area.

Was using slicer, but you were not off it was 36 degrees. THANKS!! almost done with the box

:) Awesome. I would love to see it when you get done.

Hey I'm on the middle of making this great box. Can you please post a link to that terminal block you used there?

Honestly, I just picked one out of my huge stash of components. Most people have junk boxes. I have junk ROOMS :)

I am pretty sure that it is this one, though - https://www.amazon.com/Valuepro-GGE-20-6P-R-Terminal-Connector-Position/dp/B00B889FZ4

You can also get it directly from Jameco here on eBay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/122308256744 - for about the same price, but you get four strips here instead of the three you'd get from Amazon.

When you get through, I'd love to see your finished case with a [Made It!] post :)

say rebeltaz...

What did you use to design this cool box? I'd love to make one but want to make some changes to suite my electronics setup. So, in short, I'm asking for the original files. :-)

lol... no problem. I'll post the file(s) tonight when I get home. I used Sketchup 2014 to design it so the files are in .skp format.

Thanks for this great design.

I just finished printing it, not assembled yet. I was wondering if you had to extend some of the Tarantula stock wires.
I am worried mainly about the wires coming from the x carriage (Hot-end, z limit switch and fans).

I will post pictures when completed.

I did, yes. The z-limit switch and the fans I had already extended long enough when I first built the Tarantula, so those were already good for me. The hot end and the x-axis motor did have to be extended a bit. The x-axis isn't so big a deal, just cut the wires in half and splice in a longer wire in between the two halves making sure to insulate the connections with tape or (better still) heat shrink tubing. For the hot end, though, you need to make sure that you use heavy enough wire and make sure that you keep it as short as possible while still getting the job done. You will also want to be triple sure of the solder connections between the wires and, again, use heat shrink tubing (or tape) to insulate the connections. I think I had to extend mine about six to eight inches and I have not had any problem at all, even with my last print which was a 235° ABS print that wne ton for right at 24 hours.

I am glad you like it and I would LOVE to see photos of yours once you get it complete.