This Thing is currently under moderation: due to a Notice of Claimed Intellectual Property Infringement.
Files and images for this Thing are currently unavailable.

Large Star Wars R2-D2 Astromech Droid Replica

by USWaterRockets, published

Large Star Wars R2-D2 Astromech Droid Replica by USWaterRockets May 4, 2017

Thing Apps Enabled

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

Views Downloads Found in Model Robots


This is a nearly 1/4 scale size replica of the famous R2-D2 droid from Star Wars, designed to be assembled from components which will all fit in a 3D printer with a 120x120x120mm build volume. It was designed to be as detailed as possible, and has moveable legs and head. The center leg even retracts inside the body. This droid also has a secret ability that is revealed in this short video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZ98NAstVqA

For a complete set of assembly instructions, please go to http://www.uswaterrockets.com/construction_&_tutorials/3D_Printed_Star_Wars_Droid/tutorial.htm

Note: if you print this model with the intention of charging any type of fee to another person for your services, you agree to give 150% of your fees to the current copyright holder of the robot. You can keep the change. Thank you.

Print Settings


Monoprice Select Mini






0.1mm Layers for best results


Whatever works best for you


See the assembly instructions at http://www.uswaterrockets.com/construction_&_tutorials/3D_Printed_Star_Wars_Droid/tutorial.htm for a complete listing of printed components, and note that the parts were designed to use no support, except for one or two exceptions.


You can sand and paint this droid like any other plastic model kit. Use a color scheme from the films, or come up with your own ideas.

How I Designed This

This model was designed completely from scratch, to get experience designing detailed and articulated models intended for FDM 3D printing. It was designed using Alibre 2011, and the models were rotated to optimal build orientation using Meshmixer.

All Apps

Upgrade this Thing with Thingiverse Apps

Tools and Utilities

Repair, slice, or enhance this Thing

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

OK. I just noticed the even the makes are being removed. Someone is taking this VERY seriously! With the popularity of this model I have no doubt it will go "Underground" and still be made!

With so many similar models out there it is easy to see why someone would think this kind of model was allowed. A lot of effort went into making it and it's a shame it cannot be shared. I wish I had known before sharing it. I wonder if other similar models are having similar issues. It might just be a broader crackdown?

Great model!

Any chance to make a version with some details to be printed in another colors like the blue squares in the dome? Due to large size of this model, would be very nice get it done almost without having to deal with painting. Just like this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1473207

Thank you for share!

Dino Flintstone

Sorry, but it appears that this type of model is not allowed to be shared, in spite of the number of similar models out there that are available. I have been told that the model must be removed at the request of Disney/Lucasfilm. I really don't want to be trouble to them, because I respect their rights. I even went out of my way to try and prevent 3rd parties from trying to make a profit from reselling this free model, but somehow it caught the wrong kind of attention, and it had to be removed. I'm going to stay away from replicas unless the rights are clearly listed. Thanks for the nice words about the model!

Fair enough. Anyway, was a great model and looking forward for any new project for other subjects.

thank goodness I already downloaded and printed this bad boy... :)

what happened to the files???? Says they are not available

does give 50% to you and 75% to charity mean we lose 25% percent or was it a joke

What happened to this model? Why is it under review for IP infringement? Surely Lucasfilm isn't attacking the Thingiverse community for fan replicas...

I don't know about Lucasfilm.... Disney did.

The bottom of the summary has a thing about fees - that's probably where the sticking point is.

The author says, give me 50% of your profit.and then 75% of the profit to charity - clearly someone can't add or understand what IP infringement law is all about.

Also, "Designed from scratch" is a foolish statement to make given the obvious commercial source. All kinds of wrong with this.

Just go get an account with the folks @ Astromech.net - they have all your need, again for free with agreements.

The bottom of the summary has a thing about fees that intentionally add up to more than 100% to troll those who insist that Creative Commons "Non Commercial" somehow weirdly does NOT prevent them from charging for "materials" or "labor" or "printing fees" and sticking finished prints for sale up on Etcy or ebay. In other words, I was poking fun at unscrupulous IP thieves while protecting the IP from them. If this was the concern, I would have gladly changed the wording to anything else. The complaint does not mention this, or any of your theories why this model was requested to be removed.

Additionally, "Designed From Scratch" in this context means it was done the traditional way in which movie prop replicas are created, using reference photos and measuring by hand and creating every part and detail from scratch using NO existing models or CAD as a template. I've been following theRFP.com for many years and have never seen anyone called out as "foolish" for saying they "scratch" built a replica of Darth Vader Helmet, or X-Wing Fighter, etc. simply because they were replicating a movie design.

I'm a little surprised by the condescending comments coming from someone claiming to be an Astromech.net representative. Very disappointing.

I hardly claim to be anyone's representative beyond my own. I just claim to read and add properly instead of profiting off of someone's IP.

Without proof we will have to take your word for it that have reading and adding skills, but you failed this simple test of common sense and manners.

Just completed construction and most of the painting on mine. I will put up a "I made one" once I finish the weathering and last minute tweaks. Fantastic model you guys have made. One major comment though - the center foot does not reach the floor completely when the droid is tilted back. Is there something you can think of that I may have messed up? Other than that, again, great model! Thanks for sharing it with us!

I look forward to seeing your make! Someone with better painting skills could probably make one a lot more professional than ours. As far as the center foot is concerned, the side legs were designed to tilt a few degrees more than the normal rolling position to account for variances in printers and print tolerances. You should be able to press the three feet flat on a surface with the middle leg fully extended, and the side legs and feet would settle into the driving position naturally.

How did you manage to get the files to work? My Maker Select Mini just doesn't like most files. The extruder will be heating up, and once it's to the correct temperature, the bar will say the print is going, but the extruder isn't even moving, let alone extruding or creating anything useful. Any advice would be appreciated.

Is this a unique situation with this model? In other words, have you downloaded other .STL models from this site and successfully sliced them and printed them? The technique should be the same for any other .STL file you have.

This model is amazing, My nephew and I cannot wait to get started. Do you know what the biggest piece is? I would like to scale this up a bit if possible. Thank you!

The torso is the largest by volume, but the inner leg parts are the longest single pieces.

Hi, great model. Thank you for uploading. Just have a question regarding supports for the torso. Trying to find a happy medium between not enough & too much support. Are the areas in the attached pic the only ones that need support? Thanks again. https://mega.nz/#!MLJxwQJB!Q5AvITEIQIyXLiaOU0NT-28tM89c75ILhc2-q7AM6G4

Yes, the areas in your photo are the only parts where you will want to put supports. Everything else should work unsupported with a well tuned machine. Some people can get the whole thing to print with no supports just fine, but I was afraid to try because the print is long and if it failed near the end it would really be annoying.

This is pretty awesome. Well designed, and just down right epic. Thanks to you folks (and mad props to the designer). I have an adaptation (had red and silver pla laying around) so I'm printing R2-R9 presently. Thanks again for this amazing model!

Thanks for your nice words! It took a long time to make this model, so your feedback makes it worth the effort!

Just started printing the parts with my Anet A8 on a AM8 frame. White PLA at 190/50. 80 mm/s and they look absolutely amazing! Can I actually print the dome without supports? Also the supports for the torso I assume it should be supports "Everywhere"? Anyway thanks for this incredible model... can't wait for more!

I printed the dome without supports. The roof on the inside was a little coarse but it saved a lot of time because the support goes all the way up and adds a lot of printing time. The body is the only part that needs support and you're right, it has to go "everywhere" to make sure the cutouts for the arms and vents are supported. You will want to play with your support settings (the x and y distances) so that the support doesn't try and appear inside the grooves and panel gaps in the body. If support gets in those gaps, it is hard to get out. Glad you like my model! Enjoy!

Anyone able to give me a rough estimate as to how long the torso would be to print either .1 or .2 10/15% infil

I'm using anet a8 and not super confident about unattended just yet.

It took me about ten hours at .2 w/ 25% infill and 80 mm/s.

Four to Five hours possibly

I have it at 27 hours with Prusa MK2s and Simplfy3d at 0.1mm and 10% infill and 50mm/s speed :(

I don't know if anyone else had the problem in their slicer where the Holo Projector didn't print right. I'm using cura 2.6 and when I go into layer mode for the projector, it is just a blob that looks nothing like its supposed to.

Just loaded it in Cura 2.6.1 and it looks great even in layer mode.

A month later... (for others having trouble) I successfully printed it by adding a raft. I used five layers for the raft which was overkill. .01 layer. I also lowered the speed to 70 mm/s.

I am printing the thing now, when I get to the holo projector I will let you know how it turns out.

Comments deleted.

That was a joke. People are not supposed to make any money from licensed products. If someone were to sell these files or prints made from them then they would be breaking the law and Disney who owns Star Wars would possibly sue them, or just decide that they won't allow people like to design these kinds of things and give them away, which would ruin it for everyone.

oh yeah. sorry for asking

Hi Guys,

I had issues trying to get the finer details to print decently in the shoulders so I decided to separate them ( easier to paint too! ) so here's a link to the separated parts and the modified shoulder pieces


You guys rock! what an awesome little R2! I'm still busy sanding and Painting, I will upload pics as soon as it's done!

R2 D2 Shoulders

oh no,I love it!thanks for your share!

any attempts to motorize this?

I intend to

Would it be possible to make R4, R5, and R6 heads?

I have it on my list of things to do, but I heard someone was making a compatible R6 head already. I have no clue what the status is.

This looks terrific, my son and I have started printing one on our Monoprice Select Mini! Not only is this well designed, but that is the smoothest surface I've seen on any 3d print by far. May I ask what your process was? Is it just sanding and priming, sanding and priming, or did you perhaps print in ABS and do some acetone smoothing?

Nevermind, I found the answer below :)

Had a lot of fun making and painting this. Thanks for the design guys look forward to more like this one in the future

Hi Guys,

what a great R2!!! man I've been looking for a complete one for ages! Now I'll have to upgrade my build volume so I can print one in a bigger size and automate it!

Great job! thanks ............... I modified the holo projector to fit a standard 5mm LED here's the link


feel free to download it and add it to your build list as an alternative, I also made the inside walls of the lens hood a little thicker since I had problems printing a decent one on my printrbot ............ just my thanks to you guys for such an awesomely detailed little R2!! .......... I'm still in the process of printing, once it's done, I'll post pics of it ................. thanks for sharing!

Holo Projector With Hole

Hi folks, I hope someone can help out. Where did you find the screws for this model? I can't seem to find them in small quantities or in a kit that has all of the right sizes. Thanks in advance for the help!

I get all my metric screws from amazon or hobbyking. You can get them for a few dollars for a bag of 50 or 100 (the more you buy, the lower the cost per screw). They also come in assortments. In a pinch you can also just buy a handful of the longest ones you need and then make the shorter ones from that by carefully cutting them to length with a hacksaw or dremel tool cutting wheel. When you cut them sometimes it's hard to get them to thread on correctly, but if you smooth out the cut part with a file it will get them working.

I put a nut on first (all the way to the head), cut, use a drill in reverse to file the end, and then remove the nut. Works perfectly every time for me.

If I only need a few I go to https://www.boltdepot.com/

i love dis star trek model

Comments deleted.

I'm having a separation issue with the Dome at the very bottom of it my pictures are in the made section can any help or maybe know what the problem could be it does it on every print.

Amazing model! The details are incredible. The only issues I had was which every single moving part was too tight to fit. Not by a little, but by at least a mm. I had to sand all these parts. But the result was fantastic. A suggestion for improvement would be more details in separated pieces to be printed in the different colors. Just like the Cheshire Cat of reddadsteve. Looking forward to find a Star Trek Enterprise model with this level of quality. Thank you!

I got to step 4 and cannot proceed. the legs do not fit into either the right or left foot.

The ankle is intentionally oversize to spread the slot apart and provide friction in the ankle joint. Without friction, the ankles would not hold the robot up on 2 legs. The ankles have a raised circular ridge around the pivot point on each side that can be sanded or shaved down in case the printer tolerances caused the fit to be excessively tight. The fit can also be tight if the leg parts print with curling up at all on the ends.

I can access the site now. Thanks again. I can't wait to paint and assemble this R2.

Is the only difference that it has an arc reactor on the front and a red/gold paint scheme?

Yep.. I was thinking about replacing one of the front vents with the ARC reactor so that you would still have both arms.

The front vent piece is separate from the torso, so it would be easy to replace with a different part.

What a great job you did on this! The website for the assembly instructions isn't working for me though. Could you check into this, please?

I just checked and it's working. Maybe it was just a glitch? Please try again and let me know what happens.

Is it possible to scale this down? Maybe 75%?

You can print it at a smaller scale, but be aware that you will need to adapt the screw sizes to match the new print scale.

how much plastic do i need if 15% infill 1.0 wall

Around 300 grams, I estimate.

This is an awesome model almost done printing it out, should think about doing a C-3PO model as well. i would print one out for sure.

That's a definite possibility. I believe it could be to the same scale, because his parts are more easily divided.

that would be sweet, cause i mean if you have r2 you have to have c-3po.....lol

Where would we get the parts to convert the model to a rocket? I notice in the video it appears the neck collar is replaced with a different part. Are there others as well?

We have not had a good day to launch ours yet. It was super cold and rainy until this week, now it warmed up but got too windy to launch. Once we do our launch, we will post the rocket parts. We want to be the first to launch it!

Totally understandable!! We have a big family reunion with all of the cousins next weekend. My brother and I are furiously printing as fast as we can to get 5 of these things ready for them to all paint and assemble. Would be cool to launch them as well, but either way it will be fun! Awesome model, and good job!

i think they just flipped it upside down?

love terrific project ( ;: = ))

This is so awesome! Thank you guys :)
I will print is as soon as possible, in R2D2 colors.
Thanks again!

This is fantastic. thanks for sharing!

I'm local in northern NJ and have been looking to get involved in your group. How could I get involved? i'm a mechanical engineer and teach rockets every summer in Parsippany NJ but i'm always looking to increase my rocket skills.

This droid will totally fly. cant wait to see

Thanks, and talk soon,


What did you print the Radar Eye in to get that glassy look?

I've done several of them. Some were done in ABS and acetone polished for smooth plastic with no other finishing. Others were just sanded and painted with gloss black paint. I do not recall which one I ended up using, because they all turned out great.

I believe he says below that he used and LED in there in order to eventually light it up.

The Holoprojector interior was scaled so that a 5mm LED will fit inside if you drill it out.

You'd normally just sand smooth and use a gloss black paint ; )

Not the holoprojecter, I mean the main 'eye'. It doesn't really look painted unless it had some glossy coat or something.

Awesome model, great 3D work! And just in time for the celebration!

Just curious but what slicer software did you use / worked best with your MP Select Mini to print this out? I'm starting to print one on my new Mini v2 but ran into some odd issues with Cura 2.5 (unable to print at all without brim turned on) and Cura 15.04 (printed out some odd ring around the main model with brim off).

Thanks for the kind words on the model! This was sliced partly with Cura 2.3 I believe but at some point in the middle I updated to Cura 2.5. I do not have any issues with the brim settings, so I'm really baffled by that. There's a facebook group for the Mini that you could post this question in and see if anyone else has encountered this. The people there are super helpful! I highly recommend asking them.

First, this is an AWESOME model. And I do mean fantastic. I love it. In case this is of any use to anyone, I have so far printed all the middle leg parts, the torso and the dome on a Printrbot Plus. I used PLA throughout. For the leg parts, I went with 0.1mm 15% infill, 1.2mm shells at 70mm/s. For the torso and dome, I went with 0.2mm, 10% infill, 1.2mm shells at 70mm/s. Really very successful. I am on Cura 15.04. I used a brim and support settings to 'Everywhere' and that worked out really really well. As soon as I have the rest done, I will post an 'I Made It'. There really is no room inside the torso for much. If you wanted to scale it up, get ready for long, long, long print times. At my settings, my torso took 14 hours to print, the dome needed just shy of 9 hours. I can see going to 1/2 scale by doubling the size of everything but again, the track in the center for retracting the center leg occupies a lot of space. As is I think I have room to put (small) motors in the right and left feet, run a wire up the legs to a small RC receiver like the sort I would put in a conversion of a Guillows balsa plane. I would put a planetary gear somewhere as part of the dome and mount that motor in the gap between the torso's inner surface and the middle leg track. I think for a Remix, I might just do that. The rest is circuitry and batteries I can stick in the dome itself. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.....

I think there is room for some motors inside, but I was more concerned with making the legs and feet articulated. If they were not moveble, the axles and pivots in the legs and shoulders could be removed and make space for a drive system. The center leg could be glued in the down position and the track removed, freeing up all the interior space.

I'm almost done printing now. It looks fantastic. Just a few small parts like the utility arm and the holo-projector are left. Then it's on to prime and paint. I think a scale up by about 1.5x would give me better room for motors and so on and yes, I'd like the center leg in the down position like a previous R2 I had built. Somewhere in my archives is a model for a neck ring like you have but with a place for a central motor shaft so that I can mount a motor mid torso and allow the head to be controlled with an Arduino. All this is for another day. First, I need to get my R2 camera sentry done......

Thanks for the tip. I checked the reddit forum and see others are having the same issue - some think it is a Cura bug? In any case, I was able to get started with Cura 15.04 so for now that works OK.

What fill (if any) are you using on the parts? Also what shell thickness? I am new to 3d printing so I am not sure where to get these details.

I used 2 perimeters which is 0.8mm thick shell on the printer I used with a 0.4mm nozzle. I also used 0.8mm top and bottom thicknesses. The infill is not critical, but makes for better parts with more strength and can make the top surfaces smoother because the infill supports the printing layers above. I wouldn't use less than 15%. Infill over 25% is probably a waste of plastic on this design. I hope you get it dialed in! Good luck!

This looks like an incredible kit! How tall does he stand (with center leg retracted, standing straight)? The Diamond Comics "bank" quarter scale R2 fits well with the Jakks 18" line, but this guy would look amazing.

The moving parts have detents in the model which let the legs stick in the center position with friction. The center leg has detents in the track for the leg to hold it in the up and down positions.

Good Grief ObiWan!


1) Did you just paint and sand, paint and sand, or did you use a smoothing technique (Acetone, XTC3D)?
2) If you are asking for suggestions, well here's one: Offer a kit!
3) Did you try to scale up to 1/2 scale, presumably I can print on a 240x240 or bigger bed, like my Printrbot Plus

This is awesome. Now to add some electronics!

1) I hit the parts with primer to fill in the layer lines, then sanded them smooth, then painted. I didn't do any chemical smoothing, because there are a lot of fine details I thought might get rounded off. I'm not the best painter, and I'd love to see someone who builds models as their main hobby get their hands on this and airbrush it properly.
2) I think selling kits would violate Lucasfilm trademarks.
3) I spent so much time and filament perfecting this model that I have yet to try scaling it up. There's no reason it would not scale as big as a printer can print.

The Holoprojector objects are designed to be drilled from the back so you can put a 5mm LED inside. My model has them, because they look like glass lenses, but I have yet to wire them to power.

Thanks for the feedback!