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Mondrian 3.0

by watsdesign, published

Mondrian 3.0 by watsdesign Dec 23, 2012

Contents

Design Tools

Sketchup

License

GNU - GPL
Mondrian 3.0 by watsdesign is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Thing Statistics

24013Views 1987Downloads Found in 3D Printers

Summary

The third major revision of the Mondrian.

More on the RepRap Wiki
Tons of pics on flickr
Github repo here

Print Settings

Printer:

Mondrian

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.24mm

Infill:

25%

Instructions

See the github repo for the latest files.

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Hey my friend, could you help me out with the acrylic part?

I wish to increase the size to 20x20y30z and another 30x30y40z but I am not too good at designing, so I am having a hard time figuring out how should I increase the acrylic sizes so the holes match?

Also could you help me adding the motor position on the acrylic for a 3rd extruder? I might want to add a diamond hot end to this beauty if I am able to build it because in the BOM I don't understand how many nuts and bolt do I need.

Thank you for a great design.

wow i like the design and the reprap aspect.But it wasnt easy to find.
why isn´t everyone usingordinary t slot profiles. Sourcing them from Motedis is way cheaper then getting any of those fancy v slot profiles with these extra expensive wheels. And this printer proves it.
I will definetily build this one as my second printer :) sourced and build from scratch.

Because using T-slot implies you have some other motion system such as linear shafts or linear rails. At lengths over 500mm or so rods deflect too much to be useful, so another motion system must be found. V-wheels on V-slot provide a good cheap way to build the frame and motion system into one. Good linear rails are very expensive.

Look more closely ^^
One of the main design choice here is to use the standard cheap T-slot as the frame AND linear guide, so no need for anything else :)

It's the simplest linear axis that I can come up with.
The trade-off is more adjusting time and lubricating it more often than a rail ; but you can have something as precise yet ultra cheap : profile+printed part+motor+pulley+belt+fastening : less than 10$ which sounded good for a DIY design.

Also I wanted it compact, I find the wheels on special profiles too bulky, and way more expensive in comparison.

A lot of cheap Chinese printers use V-wheels on T-slot. It ends up being a problem as the wheels contact on one sharp spot and wear out quickly. I know it "works" but it doesn't work long-term. You can use V-slot as frame and linear guide and have a better solution which lasts longer, it costs a little more but I think it's worth it. The D-Bot does this and it works excellently. The argument for size makes no sense, the distance between the wheels is less with V-slot than with T-slot.

But here we have no wheels at all (hence much more compact), just a printed part gliding on a standard profile :)

Oh I see now. Interesting, a friend has tried this before but didn't have any luck with it. There is also https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2373538 which uses Igus Tribofilament for the D-Bot.

D-bot X/Y motion system linear guide blocks and pads made from Igus tribofilament
by Rexipus

That remind me, Igus always made their tests comparing to ABS.
But the PLA having much less friction I wonder what the numbers would be...

In my experience the PLA is good enough and more widely available (which is also a design consideration), on anodised aluminium it almost don't wear :)

I have wondered this too :) You've seen the Igus datasheet showing high wear on ABS, low wear on Polycarbonate, and low wear on their own tribo material, but there is no data for PLA or PETG or other printable materials.

I am using printed PLA bushings (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16813) on the CF shafts on the X axis, and the steel shafts of the Y axis, on my HyperCube. I've had the printer working a few months and it's going okay so far. I found getting rod alignment dead straight was important, otherwise they jam up with so-called "stiction". I do need to lubricate them fairly regularly, about once every two weeks. I'm using pushbike chain lube.

Printable LM8UU bushing v3

Does this work? As I may want to build it!

yes it works ^^

Could you, please, explain why do you have XY motors mounted on the X axis, instead of mounting them on the frame itself? This way it would not add extra weight (no extra inertia).

because I wanted to :P

it's moslty to simplify the design, integrating everything in a single part, hiding the belt in the slot, and used as a rack the belt is also shorter

and with small nema 14 the weight is not that important

Great design! How do I scale it up?

If you take longer aluminium profiles/belts/etc. you can use the same printed parts but makes a bigger version :)

Comments deleted.

very cute! how is the progress on this?

The non-foldable version is soon printing :)

Hi, great design! I love the use of the belts in the extrusion channels. I've learned a lot by looking through your github. I'm building an H bot using spectra cord instead of belts and wanted to ask two questions. 1) When you did your research, did you find any significant advantage to the H belt configuration when compared to something like the approach used by CoreXY? 2) On your latest sketchup model, you show three extruders spread across your X axis. Is that just testing ideas or have you come up with something that's going to blow our minds?

Big thanks for posting your work. Much appreciated by the community. Good luck on the next steps, looking forward to seeing the final product.

1) CoreXY is also an H-bot, but it cross the belt in an awkward way, I prefer this simpler way

2) It's just a design tip, to see/have in mind the mini/maxi positions of the X-carriage, but I plan to have at least two hotends with this previous idea http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Dual_Hotendreprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Dual... (not tested yet)

Thanks :)

I'm hoping to put up more info on the CoreXY site soon but the main difference between CoreXY and a standard h-bot is that CoreXY is self-stabilizing and the h-bot is not. In an application like FoldaRap where there is a support structure, the awkward routing of the cables is probably not worth it. But in other cases (like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6640)http://www.thingiverse.com/thi..., this feature is an advantage.

Bot-of-the-Cloth
by frankie

Hey nice if you can complete the CoreXY site :)
I needed to build it in order to understand it, and I see now why this self-stabilization is helpful !

After a few revision and by using linear bearing pads, it is now moving perfectly in XY ^^ http://youtu.be/fmRBO8UZGwMhttp://youtu.be/fmRBO8UZGwM

does the firmware require any special changes to use h-bot movement?

yes, you only need to uncomment a line about CoreXY feature in config.h, and the inversion of the X and Y motors (in my case it's false false) https://github.com/EmmanuelG/FoldaRap2/blob/master/firmware/Marlin_AzteegX1_FoldaRap2/Configuration.hhttps://github.com/EmmanuelG/F...

i would like to see your firmware but the link goes to a page that is not viewable.

Yeah I changed the name to "Mondrian" to avoid confusion with the FoldaRap (since it's evolving in v2)

thanks i was wondering are you enabling corexy i did not see it in the latest firmware i checked? i have an h bot and i am chasing an almond shape circle issue. i have found a fix but want to know what others did to fix the issue. thanks

I do not consider myself stupid but any means.. but i have no clue how 2 motors on belt allows for x to move on its own like is shown in the videos on your flickr stream. Any links or something i could go read to get my head around it.. a quick google search of H bot or H gantry get me no where fast.

Ahh nice link. Thanks.. Also what size extrusions are you using? 15x15? and what are the nema14 specs. love the little bot idea.. the zip ties for belts works EPICLY well. I am using them on my Prusa Air i2

ahh i get it.. amazing how that works.. what extrusions are you using? 15x15? and what are the nema 14 specs.. i am just curious cuz I love the concept of a mini bot

I'm using 20x20mm extrusion from KJN or Motedis. For the nema14 they
are the same as on the Huxley (e.g :
http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/en/nema-14-stepper-motors/364-sy35st36-1004a-high-torque-hybrid-stepper-motors.html)http://www.zappautomation.co.u...

I love the "nophead zip-tie belt trick" too ^^

Excellent work. I have a long list of customers in the medical and silicon fab industry that are searching for 3D Printers they can operate in clean rooms (Positive pressure). They all worry about exposed belts. While these belts look clean, we all have units with small patches of belt dust at one end or another of the axis's. A unit like this seems to be an excellent way of reducing random particles. Can't wait to see the final unit!

Interesting ! I didn't knew about that. I wanted to keep them accessible but one could fully enclose the corners for this kind of application.
Thanks :)

Great work guys now like to see it in working.

Looks great! I like how the belts are hidden in the extrusions. I've been wanting to get away from the moving y-platform, and this looks like a perfect way to do it.

Thanks! Passing the belt in the extrusions was one of the little things I wanted to try, just to see if the intuition was good :)

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