I've uploaded the No Tendrils egg that includes a base. The base is necessary since it cuts through two layers of the model to create an internal support structure to build the lower bowl of the inside of the egg.
Who cares? WELL if you want a 0% infill egg that you can shine a light through and not see those infill line structures, then this is the way to go! I'm keeping the normal support at the bottom as well for extra support but it's printed without issue on 0% infill.
Printing fast with a low retraction will give strings on the inside which add some support internally too without the human/machine made looking lines.
Sorry for the odd size comparisons but the body of the tape is 2" so it's 7.5" total. I filled and coated the egg in ABS/Acetone so it should eventually (after another coat) be water and generally chemically resistant. The skin is nice and smooth too and it's still transparent with the 1mm shell :D
So next is to continue the fill and coating of ABS/Acetone and then some paint and latex. Then fill the tendrils, connect then, and I'm done!
One note about filling the egg. Drilling the points where the tendrils connect is not a good idea since the 1mm shell makes it too fragile. That didn't work out for the lower right corner in the pic with the green egg since I drilled that one. I did however use a small propane torch and an x-acto knife to cut out and/or move the PLA around for the rest so I had a large enough hole to fill the model with a funnel, without destroying the shell.
The yellow slime part is a really bad ABS brand from Shaxon that seems to be more PVC than ABS but the effect actually worked perfectly so the entire shell and innards is coated in liquid melted plastic :)
DO NOT let the CAD view fool you. This thing is HUGE!!! Full disclosure... You saw the movies, those eggs were up nearly up to the hips. This egg fills the capacity of a TAZ 5. If you want true life size, you're gonna have to buy a huge printer OR segment this Egg and weld/glue them together. One day I may segment it for you, but till then this should work for ya :)
Full scale is 474mm X x 474mm Y x 175mm Z
18in X x 18in Y x 7in Z
Firstly AGISIS really is owed a lot of credit since he's the inspiration for everyone's design which this is remixed from AND he took some hard hits to make it happen. If you're looking at this you likely love Aliens and the Alien series. If not perhaps you will soon enjoy it too! AGISIS brought to life something that many of us had wished for and for the longest time had to spend 100s to 1000s of dollars to get a subpar model of something that sort of resembles what we saw in the movies. It's the creepiest prop ever! So now it has a home :)
I really liked AGISIS' face hugger and I've been needing an egg for it. Babelique was awesome enough to create one however the bottom just seemed like it needed more.
MustangDave made a great egg but it was closed and the overall model small. It's vector so of course you can scale it.
Either way I took all these ideas and models and meshed them together to build what I'd consider a more appropriate egg which includes the tendrils from MustangDave, the egg from Babelique, and then some sculpting on the lower portions of the egg to give it a more movie-like look.
If you want to make money off this model, WELL GO AHEAD! But do please pay tribute to all the artists involved. Otherwise enjoy and thank you!
What's uploaded here:
I uploaded my final .blend file for anyone to edit themselves.
I included the fullsize Face Hugger Egg I meshed/edited.
I also include the fullsize Face Hugger Egg with the tendrils cut off and then separate files for the tendrils. I named them NE, NW, SE, SW for the directions I saw them in as I cut them out.
As you place the tendrils you'll notice they have a specific orientation relative to Cardinal coordinates. This is how they'll be attached to the base egg. Use whatever methods you feel works to attach them.
How to Make it:
Using a LULZBot TAZ 5, one tendril takes up almost the whole bed. The egg itself without the tendrils does too.... SO that's why I cut it up into the 5 pieces. Have fun and well.... patience is a virtue but not so hard to achieve when something cool is in store for the future :)
If you use this thingi for your Face Hugger, then print with the lightest infill and shell that your printer will let you get away with. I don't like PLA but it sure has it's uses. If you print this whole thing in a translucent PLA, even natural PLA, you can light the inside so if you can make a nice enough paint job while keeping as much transluscency as possible, you'll have a damn near real Face Hugger Egg. Fill the shell with liquid and seal it? :D
How to assemble it:
I recommend drilling one or more large holes in each connection point. From there you can add some epoxy, glue, caulk, or other adhesive that takes up a large volume, and creates a solid bond.
A plastic welder will do wonders for post seam adhesion and cleaning up any gaps. A plastic welder will do well in your 3D printer arsenal if you don't have one yet ;)
SO now I have some wicked props for the house when people walk in my front door :)
Babelique's Face Hugger Egg:
MustangDave's Alien (Face Hugger) Egg:
Agisis' Life Size Face Hugger:
To use 0% infill you must use the 0% infill egg. Otherwise you will need some infill. I recommend natural or translucent green PLA for this one since it is translucent and will have that neat transparent effect.
If you use 1mm walls and the 0% infill, the supports can break your model when you clean it up. Give your supports the greatest reasonable distance for your initial settings and all should be well. Otherwise, just be careful.
I do not recommend removing the support material from the bottom inside of the model. It creates a good solid stand, no one will ever see it, so why not?
Once it's cleaned up, a heat gun or hair dryer will help curl all the support nonsense that's left and since this is a creepy model, the ugly curling will actually work to you benefit.
To secure the tendrils to the egg, I recommend drilling holes in each side of the flat spots (egg and tendril sides) and use an epoxy to glue them. You can use ABS/Acetone glue here too and it will have a great bond but having something leak into the drill holes on either side will create a bridge/plug that will be almost impossible to remove without breaking something which would be the goal.
ABS could be used and with ABS/acetone glue you could paint it down. If you use a neon green ABS, it dries near clear with a green tint that builds up as the layer is thicker. It also is just as smooth as an acetone vapor bath with ABS. In fact, you can use ABS/Acetone glue to paint on ABS and still give it the same vapor bath effect, just less deadly....
After the ABS/acetone post process or a nice paint job, a final coat of liquid latex should be a nice finish.