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3mm glass corner clamps for Wanhao Di3 / Monoprice Maker Select v2.1

by xenz, published

3mm glass corner clamps for Wanhao Di3 / Monoprice Maker Select v2.1 by xenz May 7, 2017

Summary

This heated bed corner clamp is meant for 200mm x 213mm x 3mm Borosilicate Glass.

Bought 2 of these glasses off Amazon, have been using 4 to 6 binder clips to hold it down but it brings out 2 problems. The extruder fan tip do knock those clips off once in a while, especially when doing bed leveling, and changing the glass plate is a bit clumbersome.

Mixed bernbout's springy clamps with viper1619's bed corner mount yield this clamps meant for Wanhao Di3 / Monoprice Maker Select v2.1.

Have been using this for a month or so, instead of 4 to 6 clips, I only use 1 clips just to make it a bit more steady, so far it hold out pretty good. Changing glass is a breeze, one clip off, pop out, slide back in and one clip back on.

Hope you fellow v2.1 owner found it useful.

Print Settings

Printer:

Monoprice Maker Select v2.1

Supports:

Yes

Infill:

Infill 50%


Notes:

I printed using PLA, it hold pretty good since I don't print high temp filament that often, but if you do crank up the bed temp up often, you may want to print it off PETG or ABS, since this piece do touches the print bed.

Instructions

  • you'll need Qty 2 x heatbed glass clip - A.stl and Qty 2 x heatbed glass clip - B.stl
  • or simply get the heatbed glass clip (all 4 corners).stl
  • No extra screws needed

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I really wanted these to work out, but they didn't.

I printed them in high temp PLA, and they worked pretty well. The glass fit in great, with just a tiny bit of room it could wiggle in. A single binder clip held it in place perfect.

The problem was with these installed I could never get the bed to stay level. Before installing these, I releveled the bed maybe once every couple weeks. With these it was getting out of level for every single print. I spent more time leveling the bed than I did actually printing. I think was was happening is the plastic under the bed warping slightly as it warms up. But it warps slightly differently each time, hence why it wouldn't stay level.

I had to remove them which is sad because I really liked being able to pull the glass off that easily!

So the original buildtak surface started to bubble ? I read about some people peel the buildtak off so the glass sit right on top of the heated bed, no buildtak in between. Some put thermal pad Or if yours comes with a spare buildtak (mine comes with a spare) maybe it's time to change it.

Mine still have the original buildtak on and when I do bed leveing, I have my bed heated up to normal printing temp, like 57C, My buildtak also have some uneven surface, hence I use the glass, luckily I didn't encounter such problem. I adjust the Z stop switch to a level when I put the glass on and did a home Z, the bed is level and most important the 4 adjustment screws was tighten up to a point the spring has tension to hold itself and doesn't come loose during print and doesn't bend the bottom flimsy Y carriage plate. Oh. I also printed 2 of the LM8UU and mount for one side of the Y rod, the original design has 2 LM8UU mount on one rod and the other rod only got one, now it has 3 on that rod - that is to prevent the bending of the cheap Y carriage plate the printer comes with. With this setup, I didn't have to level my bed for quite some time already.

Glad you like the clamp, but sorry it doesn't work for you.

Comments deleted.
Jun 8, 2017 - Modified Jun 9, 2017

I find these tend to break alot. Any suggestions for making them stronger?

Couldnt reply to your comment so Ive added this to my own.

Ive had 4 clamps break in less than 2 weeks from putting preasure on the build plate while trying to get a print of the glass. Obviously not what they are made for, but I think if they were made stronger it would only be benifitial.

I'm sorry that it happened to your print. Would you mind post a pic or a link to a pic showing how the clamp were installed with the glass plate mounted ? I may see where it can be improve. Thanks

@Execute, interesting. My design was meant for 200mm x 213mm x 3mm Borosilicate Glass and I have two of them from different vendor. I have been using these clamp since I printed it the very first time, using PLA, and still doing strong. If mine broke I'll probably print using PETG or ABS as it will withstand better heat.

Would you mind defining "break" ? was it too tight in the first place and the holding arm snap ? was the glass a bit larger than 200 x 213mm ? were you using higher temperature and the clamp melted ?

Maybe you can use other's design where they uses screws to adjust for varies size of glasses. for example : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796685

Monoprice Maker Select v2 Glass Bed Corner Clamps

Just that these plastic clips, like 99% of what is published here (a few a week), don't hold the glass tight against the bed, don't stand the heat form the bed ... Steel clips made out of steel strip or wire or simply from clips used to hold pictures are far superior, low profile and simpler to make .

xenz - in reply to MKSA

Yes, you are right. On the other hand, if the heated bed was bow for some reason, clipping it down tightly on all 4 sides may not be a good idea either. We used glass for printing because it's flat, doesn't easily bow and maybe other reasons. These plastic clips hold the glass in place on the bed re: X and Y axis so it doesn't shift left/right, or front/back. I only use one clip just to make it a bit steady, should the bed is physically bowed, the glass is still flat and won't be force into a bow form by additional clips. Nothing is perfect, but these clips do solved 2 of the problems I encountered.

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