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SoundDoc

Prusa i3 MK2S No Mod Cable Chain Kit - All Axis

by SoundDoc May 11, 2017
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I just did the chain for the X axis, and it keeps getting caught behind the X-axis stepper motor when the printer moves from a high point to a lower point. Any suggestions?

I love this mod! Really cleaned up my MK2S (not that it wasn't pretty clean to start). These links are my personal fave ( I love being able snap out sections to accommodate different wiring). Truly well designed and thought out. Prusa should use this design; looks better, has better rigidity, easier to access cabling. My favorite addition to an already great printer!

Hi, I just want to ask if you if you have any idea if this cable chain kit will fit and work on the new Prusa i3 mk3?

Another question is about the Rambo cable chain cage and if it is really needed for proper cable chain attachment when wiring up all the cables from the bed, extruder and stepper motor on the side of the printer to the cable box with the motherboard OR is it just possible to print out all the parts that you designed as an adaptors that can be easily attached to the already included motherboard and wire cage on the side of the printer?

Thanks for help,
Karel

Anyone having problems with the Cable chain hitting the spool when your printing something to the max height? What are your fixes? Otherwise the chain is perfect.

If you've upgraded to Multimaterial, the cable chain from the hot-end can run into the extruder motors at the top. It hasnt caused any issues yet, at least partly because i never have my extruder that high unless its being calibrated, but if you have any suggestions for a fix or alteration just in case,, or i can do something to help create one, i'd appreciate it

the z axis mounts have some holes in them. are we meant to add a length of filament through that part of the chain, to help support the wiring?

(in the center of where the chain clips on) [carriage z axis mount] [rambo z axis mount v2]

i tried some 1.75mm filament in the holes, but its a pretty loose fit.

well that z axis wiring is all kinds of trouble for me. wires seem too short, chain seems to get stuck. i think im just gonna go back to stock for the Z.

I could not get the Z-Axis to work ( Rambo_Z-Axis_Mount_new_case_WIP.stl ), the wires were too tight (Short) and the chains would snap apart. I am using it with this rambo cover...

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7LAo15HdTe7-rambo-chain-link-for-mk2s

Your chains and Extended X-Axis and Y-Bed Parts.

Suggestions ?

The Z-axis is my nemesis... ;)
Its a little tight with the longest of servo wires, some machines seem to have ones that are a little shorter which makes it even more fun.
How many links are you using?
Which Rambo Z-axis mount and Carriage mount are you using?
I've got to sit down again and look at the mount to see if there's anything I can come up with, I'm going to attempt that this weekend if I can get some time. Its just tight everywhere unfortunately, the "easiest" fix is to extend the wires at the moment. the other thing I've done when trying to fit another version for Sarak was to use a small elastic on the last 2 chains instead of the clips, that lets it stretch the little bit it needs to hit the z max height.

I don't recall how many links I used but I tried to make it work, wasn't happening. I see you have posted some new options so I am going to try those as well to see how they work. But very happy with how it is turning out. And I really like the new under unit cable paths you did, definitely going to print those.

Cheers.

Ok, im not sure what it is, but maybe someone can help me. Prusa i3 MK2s. Printing the y axis rambo mount, filament starts skipping and screws the print about 3/4 of the way through at the same place every time. Ive screwed with temp, retraction, everything. This is the only print it does it on. Using Slic3r PE.

Hi Christiandustin!
Sorry to hear your having issues, and that its taken so long to get back to you, I was away all weekend without internet (worst thing ever...)
Lets see if we can't you going, this is a little tougher print due to the overhangs its trying to print (which are about 3/4 the way up).

Did you add supports? I've heard when printing this is ABS they're a must, two I've printed for others in PETG I also used supports, its just a much easier print that way as I don't currently have a better idea/orientation on how to print this version of the part.
Can you tell me your settings when you printed it and in what material? Any other info you have would be helpfull, eg. height where it failed? measurement of the printed part before the failure? What do you mean by "skipping"?

Sorry, havn't monitored this too well. Using supports, about 3/4 of the way through the extruder started skipping. As in it is trying to extrude filament but has too much of a strain on it, so the extruder itself skips back a tooth. Sort of like when something is skipping teeth on a gear. Printing in Prusa black pla (what i had extra) I finally got the print to complete by babysitting it, and the second I heard it skip, i paused the print, manually extrude a couple mm's, and then resume the print.

It's just weird because i have never run into this and ive printed quite a bit.

The z-axis is good to go. Thanks for sharing and modding your design

https://www.thingiverse.com/make:385521

Prusa i3 MK2S No Mod Cable Chain Kit - All Axis
by nuroo

Hello SoundDoc,

I have been using the new Z-Axis Mount but the cables from the stepping motor are now too short. Did you also extended those cables?

Great design, thank you.

Greetings
Bonsai

Hey Bonsai-User,
Are you saying you used the old mount (V1) and now use the V2 mount and the cables are too short?
The two mounts should be the same other than the method of mounting. The Stepper motor wires are "tight" and I'm guessing between builds they could vary a little.
I've only had issues at max Z, below that there isn't a issue at least with mine, but what I did was remove two chain clips right near the carriage mount and replaced them with black elastics, that lets them stretch a little at the very top.
Extending the cables is a option if yours are tight, I haven't done it yet but plan to the next time I need to take it apart, there are also stepper motor extenders available online.

Hello SoundDoc,

I guess my z-achses cables are the shorter ones, and yes for V1 and V2 they had been too short. I have extended them and now this is perfectly fine.

thankyou for this, i so desperately needed a new x-axis cable solution, they kept colliding with the y-axis cables

Glad to help, if you have any issues please let me know and I'll do what I can to help you out.

I'm currently in the process of printing the x axis (im lazy and busy so i finally just got to it, i so desperately need my wires to stop smashing into eachother) but I am actually doing this in ABS, and for the rambo mount piece i did end up needing some supports for it, but it worked out well. i was wondering though if you knew if it was possible to select areas to not get support with slic3r? i would have had a little more luck bridging the ziptie holes than having to clean the supports out of them with guitar string. i guess its more of a mk2s question

I think I understand what you're asking, When you're printing the x-axis rambo mount with support (i'm still trying to figure out a better way to align it) the zip tie "tunnels" through it are getting filled with support?
I'm not too familiar with ABS (only used it a little when I started) but I know it has "some" issues with bridging, if you don't need the little bit of support thats on the top of the part (that Slic3r wants to add for the clip bumps) can you print it with "Support on build plate only" enabled? that'd get rid of the support inside the zip tie tunnels.
There's no selective support within slic3r that I'm aware of unfortunately (I hope they add it someday) but when I run into "odd" situations just needing a little support and not pounds of it I'll just add it manually to the model then slice it without support.
If "support on build plate only" doesn't help, if you could let me know where you need support on that part I'd be happy to send you a stl with it built in.

I have a recent MK2S(built in February, 2017). I printed and installed the y axis cable chain and love it. My factory cable shorted, causing the bed temp to read 0. So, I printed parts for the z axis, using the new Rambo enclosure version. Now I find it must be wrong, since I cannot locate any slot, or opening in which to insert the diagonal tab projection. Also, your photos show a Rambo enclosure with louvers. Mine has no louvers. Also, how is the mount to be fastened? I guess I'm growing dense at age 75, but can you help?
Russ W

Good Evening Russ!
I apologize for not reading/replying sooner, Its been a day... :)
Glad to help, anything I can do I'll be happy to in order to get you the parts you need.
The parts are in a little bit of a mess at the moment and I'm working to update them all, you say you have a February MK2S? Mines a early April one and mid April was as far as I can tell when they made a change to the RAMBo case which removed the vents(louvers) and went with the solid case design.
You say you can't locate a slot or opening to insert the diagonal tab projection, can you tell me which STL you printed?
was it the Rambo_z-axis_mount.stl with the 6 pins?
If your RAMBo case doesn't have the vent's/slots its the newer version they just just recently posted the files for, I had a few back and forth comments from nuroo on the new design and pushed the "new" testing part out but never heard back from him if it fit. Based on recent comments by Sarek27 and a modified mount, you'd need instead to use the Rambo_Z-Axis_Mount_new_case_WIP.stl which is made to mount via the bolt hole instead with a longer screw from the spare parts bag.
If you'd indulge me and give me a few hours (its 2:23am here now) say 10 hrs, I'll update the parts with the latest versions, the case change threw me initially, just want to make sure I direct you to the right part for your machine, if you could provide a picture of the lower rambo case where the mount goes it'd be much easier to tell you exactly which mount you need.
Sorry again Russ for the confusion in the parts, I don't think its anything to do with age or being dense lol...
I'm getting a little dense myself at 40+... something? 42....yep... 42...
(I did the math) at 75 I hope I'll still be playing with new things lol, If my genes hold out I'll be lucky, just got a e-mail from my dad who needs me to help him align the laser cutter he just bought, he's still having fun at 80...

Thank you very much for your quick reply. I've been scouring the various solutions to the z axis Rambo mounting and am overwhelmed by the number of them. I tried, but failed, to include a screen shot of the file sent along with my MK2S. However, it incorrectly shows the louvered version. Mine is identical, except for no louvers. This shows only one small hexagonal hole at the far right edge, about 1 inch from the bottom.
I like the versions at Imgur.com, but can't see a simple way to implement any of them, directly.
I would be grateful for any thing you can do to guide me in the right direction.
Again, thank you for your well received attention to this issue.

Russ W

Sorry for the delay again Russ, I've been travelling at and my times/availability has been a little off, lets get you sorted out here.
So in this image: https://imgur.com/qGJ3QxC

You have the new style rambo case on the left in red correct? (Prusa released the files a couple weeks ago)
I've cleaned up the number of Z-axis parts a little, one set was for another user and a special case for him, I renamed them to avoid confusion.

In that image its the Green rambo mount your having a issue with correct?
There are only two parts applicable for any MK2/MK2S now:
Rambo_Z-Axis_Mount_V1.stl or
Rambo_Z-Axis_Mount_V2.stl
V1 had the posts the went through the vent holes in the original MK2S rambo case and was secured by filament pieces.
It sounds like you got the new MK2S case early, so you'd need to use Rambo_Z-Axis_Mount_V2.stl. Its the one with the small hexagon post and lip on the right edge.
To install it I put together a album: https://imgur.com/a/rQYN2 and added descriptions to each image, I'll update the "Things" instructions shortly as well.

I'm guessing you already have the carriage mount and chains, so all you'd need is to download and print Rambo_Z-Axis_Mount_V2.stl, this should be a direct download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4129096
I'd print it with supports on the build plate only, as it sits in the stl as support is needed for that hex post, haven't found any other arrangement which prints as good, and its not much material in that support.

Please let me know if this helps or if I'm missing something, I'll be online for the next 8 hours or so and will check back often.

Thanks for the patience Russ,
Garrett

Thanks so much, Garrett.
This is perfect! Your pics make it look so simple. Your'e the one that has been patient with me.
Russ W

Great Design! Now if you could whip together a 120mm fan holder for the PSU that would be awesome ;)

For the factory PSU? Didn't think it had airflow/temperature issues.
Design is always fun, but I'm not sure how it'd work, there are only ~1" air vents on the corners and its ~98.5mm wide.
(edit... r.dumb... looking at model vs real printer... one side is vented most the way across...)
I've you've got a idea I can always take a whack at it, push air in or pull air through? mounted likely on the switch side? no screws that'd make sense but I could see 4 corner clips into the air vents working...
;)

Yes mine gets hot after many hours of printing. I started a design in tinkercad but never finished... My thought was to use the screw holes on the back with no sides and either 1 large fan (or 2 small) on the front with vents to match existing vent holes. A channel running down the middle or side to run all the fan wires.

That'd work, I also just looked at it using a 80mm pc style fan, it'd be simple to make a fan holder/guard that would snap on the vented side snapping into the vent holes, it'd be fairly easy to do and wouldnt need to wrap around the power supply, I'll take a look at knocking something up this weekend when I've got some time.

Sounds Great, I will be the first to try it out.

Its not 120mm (don't have one at the moment) but if 80mm works.... check out: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2577785
I'll look to find a 120mm fan, once I have one I'll modify it quick if you think it would work, kinda happy with how this mounts, might just have to keep it on mine just in case... ;)

Prusa i3 MK2S 80mm PSU Fan Mount (2 options)

Hey Garrett, I started following you a few days ago as I really like all your things! (Well at least the MK2S related things. I haven't found a reason to print out that doll thing...yet.) :D

I've printed out the spool holder, cable management and now printing out the chains! I really appreciate the details and instructions on both. Especially the time you put in the build and assembly notes. These 2 projects has the most parts I've worked with so far. So the details really help a ton and kept me on track with what exactly I needed to print and how many.

That being said, do you still have the design from your "Z-Axis Design 3 Z0" found here: http://imgur.com/a/JuhF6) ?

Design #3 didn't have the chains go directly behind the motor.

I had bought some heat sinks to attach to the stepper motors. (I had the Y stepper skip on me during a 30 hour print! I read that it was possibly due to excessive heat (or loose belt) and now I'm just paranoid and decided to attach heat sinks to all motors as cheap insurance!).

The current design has the chain going upwards behind the motor where the heat sink would sit.
If you still have the STL for mount "Z-Axis Design 3 Z0" is it something I can still use? Is it just a different mount that uses the same chain links?

In any case thanks for the great and non-intrusive designs that are relatively easy to install! Looking forward to other mods for my MK2S!

Paul

P.S (I hope to have buttered you up enough with [still sincere] compliments to give me that mount! LOL)

Thanks for the Compliments!
Doll thing? What... oh... that doll thing lol... Wife was really happy to have her childhood toy fixed and repairs dolls, apparently this is a very common part to have break, she asked if I could share it for others.

Butter and flattery will get you "almost" anywhere, unfortunately Designs 1-3 didn't go beyond the initial markup step so there aren't any STL or design files to work with/share. All I did for the markups was use the X-axis rambo part and Y-axis hotend part to testfit/trial different designs.

The biggest obstacle with this axis is the length of the wires... for 99% of printing there is no issue, but when at z-max they're "just" long enough, I believe its the motor wires more than anything, they're kind of tight, enough play for z calibrations but I'd be extending them a little if I printed up there much...

That said, it might not be impossible to build/design a mounting option which may work in your case...
There isn't a whole lot of room at Z0 as you can see in those images, and moving the RAMBo connector to the bottom as pictured isn't actually possible, the wires are just too short, even with out the chains there isn't enough wire to go down and under then back up at z-max.

If you could pass some info on the heat sinks you were looking at I might be able to come up with a couple ideas, now that I know there's a different RAMBo case shipping and I modified the mount slightly to use the screw there might be a little more play available...

Taking the wire length issues into account I can see "something" like the 3rd design maybe still working, it'd take a little messing with to get something together but I think its do-able, it'd just come down to the clearance behind the motor/heatsink with regards to the amount of wire there is available.

If the motor wires were only 4 or 5 inches longer there'd be so many options, I think there's more than enough spare in the X-axis limit switch allready so personally I'd just splice them to extend them 6" or so or there's likely cable extensions available as well, then there'd be no worries.
Its something I considered when I was fitting this initially but it went against my "No Mod" idea lol.

Now that I'm looking at/considering a MM upgrade I'd likely rebuild "all the things" requiring extensions or splicing (It'd reuse all the links) where it'd connect to a modified Rambo case similar to design 3, up to the x-axis, then also take all the hotend z-wires into it, routing them around the front of the printer into another chain over to the hotend, but that's a looong ways away lol.

Thanks for the quick reply!

These are the exact heat sinks I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00REFEQ90/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was thinking maybe I can modify the heat sink? Maybe mill off a few fins down the center to accommodate the wires? but then I would be introducing some heat to the wires... heat sleeve? Then I'd still need a way to mount...

I also don't mind extending the motor wires if that was the only issue. I would just need the same genius with the design skills to produce a mount for me :P

EDIT: FWIW, I'll probably use extended screws or a tiny drop of thermal adhesive. So there won't be any additional brackets/clamps to work around.

Milling the heatsink down is a option but I don't think necessary unless the tolerances get too close, extending the mount a little is easier.
Although its a close fit (2mm to spare! and 8mm shorter wire path) I took a hour or so and mocked up a part that might work, at least the X-axis mount, it'll take a couple more to cleanup the rambo mount to the point I think its printable, thoughts?
https://imgur.com/GErRq8O

(electronics designer hat on)
I wouldn't worry about the heat on the wires at all (honestly I don't think that's your issue), the insulation class on the factory motors is rated to 180C, the motors insulation class is 130C, the safe operating temperature is <100C, and after a 25 hour print, mine maxed out at ~41C:
https://imgur.com/eARJbG1
https://imgur.com/wi3LZ6M

I've had the X and Y skip a couple of times, but only when a couple of conditions existed...

  1. When I printed a part with lots of motion in silent mode.
  2. if I pushed the speed.
  3. if my y belt was loose.

It must have been a combination #3 and #1. No one warned me about NOT using silent mode. The heavy-ish print (cat bank for my daughter) probably exacerbated the issue.

Great info on those images. Good to know that I'm well within the safe side of the heat range. Maybe the heat sinks will help some while enclosed in my LACK build.

The design looks great! Many thanks for taking time to put that together! That's awesome Garrett! Is there anything I can help with? should I measure my wires? anything?

No Problem, it took me a while to figure out by y skip issue initially, just about tore the printer apart until I figured it out.
Its easy to see too, via settings move your y-axis forward in silent mode until you can see a adjustment screw on the stepper drive (this will enable the steppers/electronics) then using a Allan key in the screw try rotating the stepper shaft, you'll feel resistance, but it'll "hop" a step without much force at all. Then kick it up to high power and try to move it... ;)

You'll notice it more on the y-axis due to the heatbed weight and higher inertia moves, belt tension comes into play as well, more if the belt is over tight adding friction, but I've had it happen on the X as well (again, tried silent mode or pushed the speed to >130% on parts with sharp corners. If you don't mind the noise (I'm thinking about building a LACK enclosure maybe this weekend myself)

I just always run in high power mode, especially if I have anything with 90deg corners, The only time I've kicked it down to silent was when it was in the living room for a time and the wife complained... that lasted about 5 minutes until I heard the axis skip, luckily I was able to "skip" it back to where it should be (in silent mode) and continue in high power (they should call it normal power).

If you google "prusa i3 silent mode skip" you'll find a bunch of anecdotal replies on high vs silent, my favorites are the half-troll replies akin to "I don't know why anyone would ever use high power, Its only used to overcome mechanical issues, you should check how you built your printer, somethings either too tight or too loose, etc..." lol, pretty sure that's not what Joseph intended...

I'll work on the part then I get home tonight and see if I can't get something together in a couple hours to test, don't know if I need anything else at the moment, maybe the measured depth of the heatsink? I used 40x40x11 (from the amazon link) for the model, if you could verify the actual part dimensions it'd help lol, I don't know how many times actual vs documented have differed...

I just measured the heat sink with my trusty Mitutoyo digitial Caliper, I got 40mm +/- .04 square x 11mm tall. fins are 8.5mm deep

Thanks, the amazon link said 40x11, but the description was 4.5"x2.5"x0.4", a little different lol, just wanted to make sure I wasn't way off.

I've knocked something together, just not sure on the best way to print the RAMBo part... likely flat with supports like the original.
Unfortunately my printers busy for the night so I won't be able to print it to test, but i'm 90% sure there shouldn't be a issue: https://imgur.com/a/j8Kjn Its close, but not as close as the other, almost 5mm clearance lol.

Let me know if it looks ok, if you want to try it I can post the sketchup or STL's, estimate puts it at ~5m of filament so its not a big job (links are extra).

It looks good to me. I'm more than willing to test print and take some pictures, measurements etc. After all it's for my specific needs! I'd be happy to use my filament for testing!

I'm cutting "ears" as we speak! So printing chain links is not an issue. I've been trying to time the prints where so I can start it before work and cut ears when I get home lol.

When you get a chance I'll take that STL and start printing tonight!

Thanks again for all help!

Sorry for the repeated messages/issue, I should have looked closer.
Should be good to go now, everything looks good in Slic3r, no more missing 1st layer bits.

Ack... hold one, Carriage mount has a broken bit in the stl, 2 minutes...

Awesome! Can't wait to give it a try! I'll keep you posted! Thanks you!

Should be available now, 3 STL's:
Alpha z-Axis carriage Mount (design 3).stl
Alpha z-Axis Rambo Mount (design 3).stl
Alpha z-Axis Rambo Mount Clip (design 3).stl
Only part I'd use support on is the rambo mount, its oriented the best way I can think to print it.
Let me know how it goes!

Comments deleted.

got it printed. broke the clip messing with it. printing 2 more...

I mocked it up just holding the heat sink and mount with my hand. It clears it with more than 2mm to spare like you said! perfect!

Now I need to find that extended bolt to mount it! I'll mess with again later when I get back home. Getting some dinner with the fam!

I'll try to get some pics up!

Got it installed... sorta.

The mount that goes on the X axis motor slightly rubs the rambo box. I think if we brought it out further away by about 1-2mm it would be perfect.

Other than that, you were right, the wires are too short. I have to NOT use the 2 closest clips near the motor so that at full z height it won't bend the mount (since it hangs without support behind the motor). I may just extend the wires a few inches when I set up the rest of the chains.

By the way, the Rambo mount for this design is genius! Fits perfectly flush and upright without worrying about finding the exact bolt length. Love it!

Hmmm... Post flagged... Lets try this again...
Doh! Well, its getting close...
So, the end of the carriage mount that wraps around the heatsink and has the chain connector is rubbing the face of the rambo case?
Or is it the chain edge that's rubbing the case?
https://imgur.com/jepFfFb
I thought it was a little tight, but slid it over as far as I thought I could so the wires from the bottom of the motor wouldn't rub on the rambo mount: https://imgur.com/O8XvgCB
If you could measure how much it can/needs to come away from the rambo I'll update it quick, might be able to get away with just moving that connection back, the lower one on the Rambo case might be ok, there'd be a little offset in the chain but there's enough twist/play to handle that I think. does it look like moving it back would cause it to rub the motor wires?

I was afraid of the wire length issue, not sure if there is really a way to solve it with changes though, even 1" more wire would be enough...
have the same issue right at the top, it gets tight enough that it "bothers" me so on the last 2 links I "may" have snuck into my daughters bathroom and stol... um.. "appropriated" a couple of small black fabric hair elastics, more than enough stretch to take that little bit of play and you cant see em...

When its at the top is there enough play to remove a link? (not sure if this assembly is overall tighter or looser than mine) Even going crazy: https://imgur.com/SDidEhG I think that'd only gain 10mm at most.

Hehe, that took a while to come up with, it came to me trying to figure out how to adjust the mount to fit on a post april MK2S when they got rid of the RAMBo vents, wasn't too sure about it initially, but its just... simple and easy, luckily they used a hex hole so it give it that twist protection.

Let me know how I can adjust it and I'll be happy to change it quick, got a part on the table with 2 hours left else I'd print it now.

"So, the end of the carriage mount that wraps around the heatsink and has the chain connector is rubbing the face of the rambo case?" <-- Yes! I think 2mm is a good amount of space to put in.

The chain link is also rubbing a tiny bit. But I think it may be from the filament I put in there is a little too long and it's cause a "curve" towards the case. Let's try the mount first. I'll mess with different lengths on the next reiteration.

I really think for my setup, extending the wires is a must. With a few more tweaks I think it's going to be perfect!

Thanks!

Sorry for the delay, looong day out of the office.
adjusted 2 copies here quick, one offset 2.5mm back, the other 5mm (which would put it equal with the side of the motor/heatsink.
You'll find: Alpha z-Axis carriage Mount adj 2.5mm.stl and Alpha z-Axis carriage Mount adj 5mm.stl in the files.
Let me know how it goes!

No problem! Any time you've allotted to help is appreciated! Printing this now! Will keep you posted.

Got the 2.5mm version installed tonight. So far so good! I haven't printed the 5mm yet. I thought of starting small first. It seems to fit perfectly! I still need to adjust the length of the filament inside as it's pushing a link into the box. Otherwise it's working!

I will however need to add about 2 inches of wire length to be comfortable. Like you said, for now, this is enough for 99% of my printing needs. I'll extend them when I need to reach full Z height. I'm going to install the others then upload some makes! I'll let you know of any issues.

Thanks again!

Glad to hear it!
If you don't need the 5mm backset then it might be too much, figured I'd just export it twice quick and post both in case 2.5mm wasn't enough to save you some time.

Going to cleanup the files a little and remove some extra bits that aren't needed, I'll keep the 2.5mm offset then, let me know if you need anything else!

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

Finally got Chains on X Axis as my cables were starting to sag.

Took a while to figure out the X Axis Rambo part but got there :)

Thanks

Testing of the new WIP rambo z axis case mount:

I was able to get the mount installed. I only had a 20mm screw to attach the mount to the case. 20mm is too long so the extra sticks out pass the case, which is okay as a test until I find a 18mm screw. After wondering why the chain wouldn't bend enough when the z axis was at the apex of print height, I reread the instructions and modified the link on x motor mount. However my wires are to short (maybe more wire is available behind the rambo board, but I didnt want to try). Seems the 90 degree angle of your mount makes the wires too short for when the print head is at the top. I ended up removing a clip so the wires can pass outside of the chain link when the print head was at the top. Also removed the filament for less tension. The above were fixable.

However as I brought the print head back down toward the print bed while homing the z axis, the x motor seemed like it hit the z axis WIP case mount. So I removed the mount because I didnt want to take a chance of damaging something. No margin for error, to close. I wasn't comfortable testing a print.

Sorry to hear it didn't fit properly,
I'm still looking to track down a drawing of the case back, I can't see it being that much different other than the vent slots, but I'm wondering if there are any other changes that might be causing the issues.
The wires at the top of the Z-axis are a little tight, but I haven't had any issues with the wires being too short, I wonder if it could be due to differences in wiring assembly ie. the length of the motor wires from the factory. There isn't a lot of space or extra wire length working with the factory routing to begin with, I 'm not sure with this design how/if I can get more.
I printed the WIP mount the other day and just tried it on mine and I see what I did there... I moved the mount up ~4mm to try and give a little more room for the wire and to make the nut install easier, but I didn't run interference tests in the model at that time and just noticed that it moved the mount into the 1mm interference range with the motor at 0,0,0, and at Ztop it unexpectedly made the wires a little tighter at the top ( i had to pull a clip as well).
I'm going to re-model it here and change the mount to move it back to the original location, if your interested I'll have a modified part up hopefully sometime today after I get a chance to print/install/test it properly.

I'll try it....

There should be a updated WIP part for the new case in the files now, I also added a picture to the "thing"...
Unfortunately after I printed it, took my printer apart, mounted it, rewired it, tested it, removed it and reinstalled my original and put the printer back together I realized... I didn't take any pictures of it while installed on the printer... Doh!
Posted a picture of it mounted next to the other part so you can see the heights are the same now, I'm hoping this fits properly else I might need to get a couple measurements/adjustment distances off you if possible and I can modify it to fit.
Same as before, pop the screw and nut, in this case drop the nut in the retaining slot from the inside of the mount, put the screw through and tighten. I extended the screw hole all the way through so any length screw should work.
Let me know how it goes, hope this fits properly for you, if so I'll replace the original with this one, it mounts much easier lol.

Hi SoundDoc.

I really like your chains. They work as they should and look fab :-)

However: I had to remove a lot of material on the holder from the x axis and also from the ziptie to let it reach the endstop.

I think a slight redesign is needed here with the MKS.

See my make fotos: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:372769

Prusa i3 MK2S No Mod Cable Chain Kit - All Axis

Thanks for the feedback,
Looked at your pictures and I can see the cutting, do you have one possibly with the axis at the endstop?
I'll have to look at that part a little closer, I'm not sure why it had issues in your case, I added a image to the "thing", I think its the 10th image, the best angle/closeup I could get of my X-Axis mount when the carriage is driven into the endstop, I've still got about 1mm clearance at that point.
I did have a issue prior to building/mounting the chains with my x-axis hitting the frame and not the endstop, in my case my x-axis limit switch had gotten pressed back a little, needed to loosen the screws and move it back to the right (from the front) and tighten the screws. Just curious if this might be contributing to your fit issue a little.
I looked at if I can cut that corner on 45deg a little, but it might make it more difficult to print as there's little material in that area for support on the build plate, I'll update the instructions to note there might be clearance issues and filing the corner slightly might be needed.

Thanks again!

Hi Sounddoc

I made a remix for the x mount and it seems to work for me for now. Will make some more tests.

Feel free to include the files directly in here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2496035

Prusa i3 MK2S No Mod Cable Chain Kit - Remix X Axis Mount

Hi Sounddoc

I posted a image on my make with the carriage nearly on the endstop (as far as it will go without pusching by hand) As i see it, the ziptie and the general bulge of that part is the issue.

I made a final redesign. Now it works for me :-)If you want you can include it here :-)

Sorry, I missed your previous post on the redesign.
I like it! That's a much simpler way of attaching the support. I'm going to link your part in the info for now, when I get a chance to get back to this model to add a couple little revisions I'm considering I'll include your part/its ideas in a rebuild as well.

I was able to print and attach the X and Y axis links and mounts. But I couldn't figure out how I'm suppose to attach the z axis mount to the rambo case. Finally I realized Prusa must have changed the design of the air flow cut outs for the MARCH 2017 - MK2S EDITION.

I searched the links from prusa stl's you posted below in the comments. None of the stl's show the new design of the rambo case back cover. Then I tried image searching, but either old pics or front view. Desperate I began searching a bunch of build video's on Youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYaI1tWdwk8
goto min 5:46, the guy takes the new back cover design out of the bag. I cant figure out how to attach your mount to that?
Or maybe its a black edition thing idk.

Thanks for the info, I'll update the description.
Now that is... weird... All the MK2S Rambo cases are black, but that video definitely shows a different Rambo case back...
I don't know if its limited to the Black edition, but there's a couple other cutouts in it that don't line up with the MK2S case they have published.
Odder yet (to me at least) is the one I based this off didn't even ship from Prusa until the beginning of April, I ordered a MK2 in... Jan? and the shipping logs showed that the batch just before mine (and all others since) were automatically updated to MK2S's, the Prusa testing sheet is dated 3/31/2017, it didn't get to me until Mid April.
I'm going to have to do some digging into this as well, it looks like maybe the slot at the top was added for the MM upgrade perhaps?

I might be able to put together a couple quick changes to support it, one of the ways I initially thought about mounting it was to use a longer screw and move the nut into the Z-Axis mount, just didn't have a spare longer screw at the time from the spares bag as I used it elsewhere lol.

hmm... more interesting, looks like the assembly instructions have been updated recently as well:
http://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/8.+Electronics+assembly/279
They show 2 case versions now, a old and a new, step 2 was edited 06/13/17 to show the difference, reading the comments it looks like there may have been a issue with the vented case and the vents cracking.
Step 8's comments from the mid to end of april say "according to the developers the new design of Rambo cover is due to the manufacturing process." and there is some discussion in the prusa forums that there might have been some changes to the base in April:
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/original-prusa-i3-mk2s-release-updated--t3659-s110.html

I've crawled through GitHub and can't find anything in any of the Prusa branches which show a change to the part, at least that they've released on git yet, give me a day or so to see if I can modify a different version quick, in the middle of printing atm so measuring is a little tough lol.

Ok good you found something official showing new design. I saw like 5 makes and wondered why I couldn't get it.

I've been searching for more info, still no joy on stl's or scad parts for it...
I'm in the middle of a long print at the moment so I can't print it, but if you take a look in the files I posted a WIP rambo mount for the Z-Axis that I'm pretty sure should work if you wanted to test it. The small detail is just to help align it with the part with the cable opening, you'll also need a longer screw, the M3-18 in the spare bag should work.

Take the one rambo board screw out in the bottom closest to the frame, and the nut, swap the screw for the longer one, put the nut in the recess in the z mount and tighten the screw. the short hex post should keep it aligned, there's no weight on that part so this should be more than enough support for it.
If you want to give it a shot I'd love to know how it works out,, if not I'll try to print/test it in the next few days.

Sure I will give it a try. Will report back soon.

Hello SoundDoc :-)

First of very good chain links they work very well. Thanks a lot for your work ! However im also confused like xavacid. I would like a clean list of parts i have to use (and where) if i have the MK2 or the MK2S. I would suggest you do like two sections: What to print if you have an MK2S: and then a list of STL files we need to print for the different axis and then another one what you have to use if you have an MK2 also with the different axis.

I plan to upgrade to the MKS anyway (kit orderd) but it is just not clear for me now what to print for what case....

Side question:

As you seem to have the MK2S: Does it make a lot difference (noise? quality? sturdiness?)
Thanks

Hey Crunch3D,
I updated the description a bit and added a BOM for the MK2S and what's been reported to work on the MK2, let me know if it helps.
I don't know if the MK2S is that much more quiet than the MK2, a friend has a MK2 and they're really the same unit from what I can tell (other than the case differences I now know), the cable routing changes and adding the ubolts to the bed frame.
Honestly I'd have to say they're of equal construction, my MK2S was Initially louder than his until I greased the bearings, and there's no real difference in the sturdiness.

Hello SoundDoc :-)

Thanks this clears it up very nicely. When my upgrade Kit arrives i will let you know if i ran into any problems..

Regarding loudness of the printer, i managed to get mine down from 75db to 20-30db. I uses IGUS bearings instead of the normal ones and astrosyn dampeners and also self printed flex dampeners. Placed the whole thing onto a washing machine mat and glued some car soundmatting onto that. Also i use a combo of hard and soft feet under the printer. The Nocuta fans also help to get the base sound level down. My enclosure is the weak spot now. the walls are to thin. (2mm) I will upgrade soon to 5 mm. But i need to find some kind of fuzzy mat or so for the side panels...

Glad to help!
I'm going to have to look into those fans, I've seen the name come up a couple times.
The bearings I don't notice much/any sound from now but I'm looking at IGUS bearings as well just to try.
Getting it off the table onto vibration feet (although I don't like this design and it unequally supports the printer which can lead to some twist over time) and adding a couple flex printed motor dampers made the biggest change, atm its on our kitchen table only 5-6 feet away and virtually silent.
The biggest noise is the hotend cooling fan, the high frequency noise off it is the only thing my wife notices. That's going to take a enclosure (soon on my list) and I'm going to use accoustic tile/board to line it. Its going to be a little thicker than 5mm though, the thinnest accoustic board we use at work is ~20mm, the thinner matt/pad type noise linings work, but not nearly as well as something like Roxul or fiberglass acoustic matt, one llayer on the outside of any cabinet would make it nearly silent.

I've been looking to add cable chain to my prusa, and I came across yours, while I'm ordering some filament for this, I have a few questions. I have a MK2, I need to print a new rambo case for this, right? If so would Aaron Yourk's version be the one to use?

Hey There!

  • I have a MK2, I need to print a new rambo case for this, right?
    Looks like I didn't look close enough at the Mk2 vs. Mk2S differences initially, I thought the changes between the two were limited to the Extruder cable mount and the Y-axis bearing supports, didn't realize the Rambo case and Extruder cable position also changed, and I apologize for the inaccuracy in the description and I'll correct it soon.
    I now realize I incorrectly referenced the MK2 to MK2S upgrade files from Prusa and not the MK2 STL files when checking to see if it fit both and thought the cases were the same.... thanks for the catch.

In the case that you have a MK2 then Yes, for this chain kit to fit you'd need to print a compatible Rambo case. I haven't personally printed or tried Aaron Yourk's kit myself (I'm assuming your referring to thing 2240114) but from Hermy65's feedback and a couple quick measurements this should fit fine.

To fit this on a MK2 at the moment, for the case specifically you'd need:

  • If you used Aaron Yourks MK2S kit hosted here (thing 2240114), you only need the rambo_chain_link_for_mk2s.stl from that thing for the Case's base, additionally you also need MK2S case hinges and the door which are within the MK2S upgrade files available from Prusa at http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/ (you'd need RAMBo_hinges.stl and RAMBo-doors.stl specifically).
    The reason being that the MK2 Case and MK2S case differ in how they close I now see, they swap which side the pins are on so the MK2 door won't close on the MK2S base.

  • There is another version of his kit for the MK2 specifically at https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0jxtOw5wECc-rambo-chain-link-for-mk2-x-axis-only if your capable of downloading it which "should" eliminate the need to re-print the door if your happy with it, I had issues downloading from tinkercad so I didn't measure/test it myself.

For the rest you'd need my:

  • Extruder X-Axis mount Extended (to fit the case offset difference)
  • The Heatbed Y-Axis Mount ( the copy of his on thingyverse I had issues with the built in support and it omits the filament "hole")
  • The Rambo Z-Axis Mount (this should line up from my measurements against his case backs)
  • The Carriage Z-Axis Mount
  • Numerous Chain Links... I think I used 50'ish in all..

Oh, thank you so much for replying, I was looking at your photos for a while before I decided to ask. The differences in rambo cases between the 2 versions didn't register with me at first. Figured it's better to verify instead of guessing. I'll go ahead and download everything and ordering some filaments. Thanks again.

Comments deleted.

Weird request. Loving this design, but my OCD with the spiral wrap on the Z axis is killing me. I know that it barely moves and isn't really necessary, but possible to make some spot to attach to the rambo board, and the X carriage to put some chain on that wrap too?

It's bugged me as well and I always meant to do a z-axis add-on, I think I just about had it out of my mind...
Then you had to bring it up again ;)
Just got some more black PLA in yesterday actually, I'll load up a bed of chains tonight and see if I can't come up with something that works. I think the last time I looked at it the issue was that there isn't enough room when all the way down for the length of chain needed when at bed height and it dragged/laid on the table, I was waiting to see how the x-axis chains performed in a upper loop before spending too much time on the Z, but since I haven't had a issue with the X yet, maybe its time to see if a upper loop would work here...

Give me a couple days to fit/try things out, I'll let you know how it goes, hopefully I can have a Z chain ready before the end of the weekend.

That would be totally awesome. I am still printing the x one. Ran into some issues with y as I cut wrong amount of 3mm filament. Too some tinkering but have it about perfect now just makes one tiny clock at a certain spot when printing on the back of the y. 9 hours of link printing and I should be done.

Well.... Don't quit your link printing quite yet... ;)
Just getting back to it as I was out for the day, but so far with the modeling I've done it's looking like a Z-axis chain kit is likely going to likely take ~16 links more. I've put together a couple quick models of how it may layout, http://imgur.com/a/JuhF6 I'm partial to the 3rd and 4th versions, it just comes down to the available cable length and clearances. Need to design/print a few versions to see what fits and what works, I should have something together in a day or two depending on work/scheduling, I'll post when I have more.

I like the look of 4 the best. Not sure if it's the most functional, but it is definitely the coolest

That's the first one I'm trying ;)... Z1 was simpliest, but had table interface issues unless on raised feet. V2&3 kept wire rotation to a minimum but had offset and mounting issues, wires might not be long enough.
Z4 is my favorite as well, its tight to the frame but I think it'll work, just need to make sure the top final rotation doesn't add too much stress to the wires, added 2 pics to the same album. Was thinking of trying to utilize the RAMBo screw but decided to try to keep to the same design style and use filament pins like the other parts.
The upper mount should be simpler, It'll likely bolt onto the one screw hole unused on the stepper, should have it done tonight and print/fit tomorrow night.

So a couple updates...

  1. I need to not get caught up in little model details lol... little things like little cambered corners in some places and other small details look huge when designing and take time to get right... then you slice it and realize the entire detail is only 0.25mm high and basically disappears when printing at 0.2mm resolution lol...
  2. I should have/need to verify the 1 or 2 unchecked dimensions in my printer model... printing time for the case and carriage mount was roughly 1.5hrs, they came out beautiful, the rambo case mount fits perfectly, the chains fit, a piece of filament inside the chains (it works for the other axis to support them and works best here it seems), but apparently the NEMA17 stepper motor used in my model which I based off some dimensions I found rather than measured is ~30mm deep, while the Prusa i3 MK2S stepper is 39mm deep...

So I'm adjusting/reprinting, hopefully I have a tested model sometime tomorrow night, I'll post it once its ready and update if required after some testing. I'm 99% sure the initial will be the final in this case, worse case I've designed it to be installed without disconnecting anything so swapping out a part doesn't require much work at all.

how many links did you end up needing? I will probably print them in preparation.

I've got 15 on it at the moment, but I'm pretty sure its going to end up being 16.
At the very top the angle was a little sharp, and last night I adjusted the rambo mount down a couple mm to make sure there's as much clearance as possible between it and the X motor. I can't account for the full z mechanical range so its based on the nozzle not going lower than 0,0,0, and it was just barely clearing it on my printer. Other builds could easily vary a little and I was able to increase it to ~5mm which should take care of most deviations. Reprinted it last night, i'll test fit it when I get home, hope to post the parts shortly after.

How big are the new parts? Daughters messed up a print of mine and now don't know if I'll have enough plastic lol have to remake 16 links and have about 1.5 layers of pla left on the spool lol

Parts all installed and tested, should be good to go now. One little interference that could be modded and reprinted but a couple of passes of a file on one of the chain links is easier/faster then reprinting the carriage mount again lol. Let me know how it works out.

Awesome. I will definitely be printing them at some point. Gonna have to get more pla first and figure out what I did to mess up my bed adhesion. Printed all links perfect before...using same gcode I cannot print them to save my life now. Wondering if there is inconsistencies at the end of this roll of cheap pla.

Not sure how old your machine is, but I ran into issues with bed adhesion early on with my MK2S, here's a couple things I found that might help:

  1. extruder and bed temperature calibration: I can't recommend this high enough. The latest Prusa firmware has it as a option in the menu, else google it, or reference http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning made a night and day difference in my prints. Assembled out of the box my extruder temp varied +- 10C up and down consistently and I could see it in the prints, after calibration it varies maybe 1C, much more consistent, much nicer prints.
  2. the PEI sheet seems to change a little over time... Initially, great adhesion, then it started to get weak, lost parts everywhere... solution was cheap glass cleaner, it seems to leave a little film behind which helps (I use it before all prints). Then that started to not help so much initially, there was some thing else going on...
  3. Enter the razor blade knife scraper... switching from PLA to PETG then back the adhesion drops right away which didn't make sense to me, alcohol and glass cleaner didn't help, but a razor knife helps remove the higher temp remnants (almost like a powder on the bed) and restore adhesion.
  4. Then nothing worked... I'm at roughly 100hrs printing on this bed, but at ~10 hrs nothing stuck anymore... The fix was a very light overall sand of the PEI surface with 2000 grit sandpaper and a little alcohol, don't know if they should do this at the factory but wow... It instantly turned my wtf non-stick surface into omfg... I need a chisel to get this off! stick...
    I only had to do it once so far but I can't explain the hours I tried everything/anything to fix it, nothing stuck, the calibration gcode wouldn't even stick at 5% speed, but since that initial quick sand things just don't release... a razor blade scraper (to be "thinged" soon) to get under the edge and a few drops of alcohol dripped on the part/bed edge when cooling is the only way to get them off. If the bed fully cools its near impossible, have to warm it up and apply more alcohol first.

Good luck! Maybe check back in a few days/weeks if you like the chain look..... ;) Not sure if I'll include something in this "thing" or publish separately, but building up the z chains after your prompting made me think of a couple other cable routing OCD issues that I'm thinking could be better... never liked those clips on the y-axis rail to the LCD... and the zip ties to tie the right side z-axis motor and the PSU wires to the frame? that just bugs me... There has to be a better way....

Hopefully printing them soon. Had a roll of ABS laying around for a couple months cause I ordered it with my last PLA, but was nervous to use it as people said smell was horrible, and it was hard to print. Put it in my TV cabinet with door closed and a blanket over it and turned fan on in living room and I can barely smell it. As far as being harder to print....straight up untrue...first print has perfect adhesion (cable chains without ears) and going 100x better than my PLA ones. (Blaming cheap filament for adhesion. Both the PLA and ABS I got were about 12$ from walmart online) Just wanted to find cheapest I could and see if it was good enough for my purposes. Apparently the ABS will be, but the PLA was too stringy and 0 adhesion. Only concern left is ABS shrinkage

I haven't printed much in ABS not due to the smell, but more due to the reported VOC's and increased particles it releases (not sure how much of a "real" concern it is vs a perceived one) as my wife is quite sensitive to dust/allergens and any ABS printing even with a fan/charcoal filter in the house triggered her issues. I also found ABS is much more sensitive to temperature changes and the mentioned shrinkage was annoying as a lot if things I print are replacement parts or have small tolerances., in that aspect I've found PLA much better, and overall for me at least its been a much easier to work with material. (plus I don't have to sit/live in the garage when I'm printing lol).
Things I'd have printed in ABS before I've switched to PETG (PET, PETT etc...), again its easier to work with than ABS imho, and doesn't shrink/warp as much.

I wouldn't worry "too" much about the shrinkage/warpage as you've got a heated bed and basically enclosed it, I found ABS to shrink maybe 0.5% vs PLA at ~0.25% on average and I found it much more pronounced on the Z axis than the X/Y axis's, so on these size parts that's in the range of 0.04mm difference on the longest axis, shouldn't be a problem mixing abs/pla parts here at all.
Good luck! and let me know if you run into any issues.

Just tried the razor blade method and I got white dust coming from bed too so hopefully I can get a better adhesion again :). Just printing the Heated Rambo Mount to test.

I'll keep an eye open for those things. Been wanting to do some other mods but don't want to redo wiring cause the current setup is such a pain.

Have to love browser crashes when you hit post...
Went to fit the parts last night and found with everything together and after the change the x motor cable pulled taut in the last 10mm or so of travel doing a calibration, not a huge issue but I didn't like it so I modified it again to let the last chain rotate over further which "should" fix it. My dremel adjustment of the carriage mount worked fine, but during the reprint of the change we had a power outtage at ~75% complete... time to add a UPS I thinks...

The last (I hope) revision is printing now at home, being supervised by my youngest daughter (and wife, and me via octopi camera) so I'm hoping I don't share your luck and its ready to fit when I get home tonight.

I think I'm on the 6th print of the carriage mount and 4th of the case at this point lol, but I just got 2x 5kg spools of black PLA in so I think I'm good for a couple weeks at least ;) next design is a new filament holder... scared to put that much weight on top of the printer, its sitting/rotating on a lazy susan at the moment...

I sliced with Slic3r which doesn't estimate but Cura estimates 6.5m of filament for the case, carriage and their clips, OctoPi says it used 7.3m.
Per chain link I estimate 0.75m, I print them 12 at a time and OctoPi says that used 9m in all.

If it helps I think I'm still at 15 links with the change, adding the 16th is what used up the little slack there was in the motor cable.
If you want I can post the parts as is so you can take a look, I'd maybe hold off on printing until I can make sure they fit properly though if your running short. Or, you could always print links in another color then swap out every other one, might satisfy the OCD, you could call them Zebra Chains lol.

This is an awesome design. But I noticed in combination with this design (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2362427) It bumps into the spool holder legs. May have to see if I can redesign the spool holder or come up with another options.

Prusa i3 Adjustable Spool Holder
by Aero3D

Best Spool holder out there ! Printed it over the weekend and works perfectly. So much easier to change.

Does this design allow you to keep a frame mounted spool holder? The designer of the original set said that it would have to be relocated elsewhere.

I'm not sure why he had to, I've run into no issues yet. The only thing I've had to do was shift it to the right a little due to my OctoPi case, but if you use a filament guide moving it to the right (or if you have the room the left might be even better) you shouldn't have problems.
I've only had them rub the bottom of the spool on high prints, but even then it flexes underneath and hasn't been a problem.
just realized I didn't post a pic with the spool holder still visible (was focusing on the chains), It'll up momentarily.

Thanks for the feedback!