Adapted version of ivcs fillament drive block: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62510
Update: DriveBlockBase V9 allows printing of NinjaFlex and other flex filament and is tested on WanHao Duplicator 4 and CTC Dual with NinjaFlex. Please see attached pictures and read instructions for some tips how to configure your slicer right to not blame the drive block for mistakes you make.
Original idea was to modify it that it can handle bigger draw rolls, like used on Wanhao Duplicator 4, which has a 11mm cylindric gear-wheel with and a 12mm ball bearing draw roll with a grooved surface and a shaft diameter of 3mm.
I read a lot of broken ball bearing shafts and because 3mm is a very weak shaft diameter if you use a strong spring I decided to add a M3 pan head screw as shaft instead. In addition all spring loaded drive blocks I know have overhanging ejection units on the outer sides. I think this might disturb some ideas to use the extra head room we have in the printer especially to the left to install a bigger heated build plate. On top of the extruders here we have some space left, which I decided to use for the ejection buttons.
I had several stages of development of this unit but I run my current version since 6 months now, without any issues and decided to release it now as stable.
Of course this mod should also work with the Original Replicator and 623ZZ ball bearings ivc recommends.
See instructions tab for information how to print and what extra parts you need.
- 1x M3 x 16mm Flat Head Cap Countersunk Hex Screw
- 1x M3 x 8mm Flat Head Cap Countersunk Hex Screw
- 1x M3 x 6mm Flat Head Cap Countersunk Hex Screw
- 1x Compression Spring, 0.360"OD 0.276"ID 0.630"-0.900"L (9mm OD x 7mm ID x 16-22mm L), 32lbs/in spring rate
(I bought a too long Spring named normal strenght at Hornbach in Germany and cutted it to a lenght of 24mm)
if you dont have a ball bearing draw roll with an inner diameter of 3mm in your printer already:
- 1x Ball Bearing, 3mm ID x 10mm OD x 4mm Width, typ. 623ZZ bearing
My advice is to print it with ABS (better heat resistance than PLA if you want to print ABS later on with it) .
I printed all of the parts with a layer height of 0.10mm, 2 shells and a solid infill of 100% which makes it more stable.
ONLY for the Base unit you will need supports and should switch them off if you print the Levers and Covers.
Notes concerning NinjaFlex prints:
- Never print faster than 30mm/s
- set rectraction to zero
- disable any slowdown options for layers under a given time or bridging
- Extruder temperature ~235°C
- Heatbead temperature ~50°C
- directly print on glas or mirror glass without any addons!
- don't use the fillament loading option inside printer menu cause it's loading the fillament to fast. Manually load via your slicers USB control interface or simply just push carefully the fillament into the nozzle with pressed drive block eject button and it's loading the fillament while doing the start code wipeing or Simplify3Ds skirt layer.
- keep nozzle distance from heatbed farer away than on normal prints
- do not print with a layer hight of less than 0.2mm
- if your extruder clicks while printing it will fail the print and you did not follow my upper recommendations or your nozzle distance was still too low. Remove the extruder fan and heat sink and fix the fillament pushed together directly above the nozzle.