Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

1:200 Tanks and Vehicles, 1944-45

by m_bergman, published

1:200 Tanks and Vehicles, 1944-45 by m_bergman Jan 23, 2014

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PACK 2 AVAILABLE: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:310476
PACK 3 AVAILABLE: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:539511
PACK 4 AVAILABLE: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1138822

1:200 WWI Tanks: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440171

1-100 Tanks:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:769137

Karl Geraet & Munitionsschlepper now added.

1:200 World War 2 1944-45 wargaming set.
(Will eventually cover US,Commonwealth, German & Russian forces.)
Something to draw in my lunch breaks.
Designed to be printed on UP! Plus in ABS.
Support is essential.
Two versions of every vehicle included - simple version has filled-in trackwork and other simplifications to make printing easier. Non-simple versions for experts only, much careful support clearing required.


Drawn in Solidworks 2012 & 2013
Designed to be printed on UP! Plus in ABS.
Support is essential.
Settings used: 0.15mm layers, vent open, loose fill, 4 layer surface, supports 3mm^2 x 80 degrees
Two versions of every vehicle hull are included: "-simple" version has filled-in trackwork and other simplifications to make printing easier. Non-simple versions really are for experts only, as much careful support clearing is required and tracks are delicate to print.
25pdr and Pzkpfw IV-schurzen-rail don't have -simple versions, because they aren't.
Parasolid versions of all parts included in a seperate file.
Pack 1:
M4A3 late
M10 GMC early
M10 GMC mid
M10 GMC late
25 Pdr & limber (goes with CMP FAT)
Universal Carrier
Churchill IV
Churchill V
CMP 15cwt
CMP 15cwt covered
CMP 1T covered
CMP FAT (Field Artillery Tractor)
CMP tanker
CMP Radio truck
Light Recon. Car Humber Mk III
Sherman I (3 piece hull front)
Sherman I (1 piece hull front)
Sherman V
Sherman VC Firefly
Achilles IIc (Use M10 hull)
Wolverine ( Use M10 GMC)
Marder III
Flakpanzer 38t
Grille ausf M
Stug IIIg mid
Stug IIIg mid schurzen
Stug IIIg late
Stug IIIg late schurzen
Stug IV
Stug IV schurtzen
Stuh 42g
Pz IVf (use g hull)
Pz IVg
Pz IVg +schurzen (turret only, turret+rails, or full, depending on hull chosen.)
Pz IV H +schurzen (turret only, turret+rails, or full, depending on hull chosen.)
Pz IV J early
Pz IV J early +schurzen (turret only, turret+rails, or full, depending on hull chosen.)
Wirbelwind (use Pz IVh hull)
Jagdpanzer IV
Jagdpanzer IV +schurzen
Jagdpanzer IV L70
Jagdpanzer IV L70 +schurzen
Panther A mid
Panther A late
Panther G
Jagdpanther early
Jagdpanther late
Tiger I
Sturmmorser Tiger
Tiger II (Porsche turret)
Tiger II (Henschel turret)
Sdkfz 250 ausfB -1
Sdkfz 250 ausfB -7
Sdkfz 250 ausfB -8
Sdkfz 250 ausfB -9
Sdkfz 250 ausfB -10
Sdkfz 251 ausfD -1
Sdkfz 251 ausfD -2
Sdkfz 251 ausfD -9
Sdkfz 251 ausfD -10
Sdkfz 251 ausfD -22

Karl Geraet (nr iii-vii) & Munitionsschlepper (60cm & 54cm versions) NOTE: complicated model - NO simple provided.

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Quick question about the turret plugs (Not sure if asked previously).

Why are the plugs so long?

When I scale to 15mm or 28mm, I cut the bottom 3/4 of the plug off before printing.
It saves time and PLA, plus I suspect itfits better.

At 1:200, a 4mm long plug is not actually that long. Big turrets or big guns need a bit of depth to stop the turret tipping over.
Of course, if you scale them up 4x, the plug is rather long... but I don't really advise upscaling 1-200 to 1:50 anyway, since the detail was never designed for that size.

Has anyone been able to print the turrets / cannons horizontally in Simplify 3d with supports? Whenever I try it supports are printed on everything but the turret / cannon. So my printer is trying to print in thin air. Any help is appreciated.

The default for me would not put supports under the turret. You need to add them yourself. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/adding-and-modifying-support-structures/

Hi guys,
anycubic i3 mega here.
I tried print Jagtiger and Stug and both have problems with cannons - its like they needed support branches..
I printed them on flat - like start on tracks and end on roof. With "raft" support.
Jagtiger is really detailed and nice.. just gun is jagged and there was on bottom some layers that does not fix together..
Check image please. Thanks.

Hi rodiercz:
They definatly do need support for the barrels when you are printing.
If your using Cura for your anycubic I3 switch to expert settings and select the support type tab and chose everywhere. Rafts are for platform adhesion to help the model stick to the build plate. Rafts don't help with overhangs like this. Without support enough support you will get droop like this. Just play around with the orientation of the model on the build plate and amount of support I find 15 - 20% is usually more than enough for these models when printing with an FDM type printer. Some models require more support than otheres. also experiment with the heat range for the material you are using some brands have a very narrow range where they print well. I have had one brand of PLA be almost unusable when using the extruder settings from another brand. It took a bit of calibration to lock it down for acceptable results. These models print very well. It just takes a bit of trial and error to to figure out your printer settings for the material and models you are printing.

Good luck and I hope this helps you out.


Comments deleted.

In what orientation should I print them? What gives the best results. I have a FDM printer and using PLA.


I've had some really nice results printing at 45 degrees (as if the tank is doing a "wheelie"). It does depend on the tank though.

amazing work and thank you :)

Hi, I was working on making the 25 pdr cannon when I realized that it only has one wheel coming with it. Any advice or am I missing something?

A separate wheel in the 1: 200 scale model is a support for lowering ground pressure and quickly turning the gun
Look at any photo, please feel free to

Ok, thank you very much.

Has anyone scaled any of these to 1/100 scale if so what percentage should I print them at to make them the 1/100 scale as there seems more of a choice of vehicles in the 10mm scale but I play 15mm?........cheers

Are there games that use this scale of miniature? I wouldn't mind getting into ww2 wargaming, but I would prefer it be at 1:200 scale since it would take up less tablespace.

have you considered 15mm (1:100 scale)? there are a multitude of games out there at that scale, chain of command, flames of war, battlegroup,.... various games can also be played at smaller scales, in fact it often brings ranges closer to reality

To address the question more closely, use any of the above mentioned rules and halve all size and distances. ( Or use cm instead of inches.)
Or use the GHQ rules (there are free tank-only rules available on their website.) Or else track down a copy of the old WRG rules.

Thank you for the info.

Another interesting point is going 1:100 (15mm) is that it's a lot easier to find infantry models. These are not only usefull as actual infantry but can also be used as tank crews with some conversion work. And 15mm is still pretty small scale and storage wise

I'm trying to decide whether or not to complete the sets of 1:200 figures I've been sitting on for over a year now. My biggest put-off (apart from the sheer number of nationalities to consider) is that people will insist on printing them at 1:100 and then complaining about the detail, despite the fact that they are designed purely to give a good printable result at 1:200. I know this will happen, because I get it with the crewed tanks...

I would love to see your 1:200 figures. The 1:200 tanks are a good compromise between detail, print time, storage and table space. Lack of infantry has been holding me back.

To be honest,none are in their right to complain. You're doing the hobby an amazing favour,both with your 1-100 and 1-200 scale thanks.
That being said,I should say I prefer the 1-100 models as I rescale these to 28mm scale. Anyway,I guess you should do what you like most!
How do the 1-100 tanks print at 1-200 scale?

Great on a SLA printer.
Near total failure on FDM unless you're an advanced user with a really good 3D printer who can manage 0.05mm layers.

I must say that these are lovely! I admire the patience it must have taken to put in so much detail in solidworks. As a slight issue, whenever I print the gun barrels the bottom surface always seems to be omitted, resulting in an inverted u-shaped cross section. Any idea why this might be?
Thanks again for these models!

It is a deliberate design decision for the 1:200 models. It gives a bigger flat surface for the gun barrel to print onto, which: 1) prevents the gun barrel becoming detached and curling up & 2) having half of the barrel get not printed at 0.2mm resolutions due to the width being less than the printer can print. At 1:200 it isn't very visible. At 1:100, use the redrawn ones where possible.

Ok. Just to be clear (since i don't think I worded things well), I meant a hollow "U", not just a flat bottom. As in only the outside edges of the barrel bottom are printing, leaving the barrels hollow and open when looking from the bottom side. it doesn't happen when I orient the barrels vertically, however. Maybe its just the slicer I'm using (I've been using Cura). I'll have to experiment more.

I think it is your slicer since mine print without any issues and aren't hollow

Might I ask which slicer you use? I've been playing around with different ones trying to find what works.

I'm using the velleman slicer (don't recall its true name but i believe you can download it for free from the velleman website)

In case anyone else is having the same problem, here's what I did: I reduced extrusion width from 0.4mm to 0.35mm, which allowed the slicing software to fit in an extra extrusion to fill in the barrels. Worked like a charm!

Hi Blissgoodloe
if I can help and its ok with Mr Bergman, I will be willing to help.

You're not advertising tanks for sale, so it's a non-commercial use.
That means you can do whatever you wish.

Thanks Marco
didn't want to step on any toes :)

Hello! I'm looking to make a larger board for the Diplomacy board game to make it look like a war room type and am needing to find someone who can make and sell me the tanks and ships for the game. They don't have to be exact, but I'm needing them to be between 2 inches and 3 inches long. Any help would be appreciated!!!

Hello Blissgoodloe, I'm afraid that nobody is allowed to sell you these thanks as they are put under a "non-commercial" use policy. You might be able to download the files and see if a 3d printing company (like shapeways) can make them for you but I dont know if that is legal or not. Sorry

I wouldn't worry as I have had no reply from blissgoodloe, seems they obviously are not that interested.
Why bother posting if you are not going to reply?

Just to clarify here- I define "commercial use" as advertising these items for sale.
If you want to make some (or lots...) for friends or your wargame club or whatever, that's fine.

Oh, thats really cool! I actually printed a few off to show my school friends but they all wanted some, so I suppose that means that I can sell them some now! Great! Also, thank you for your reply. :)

Very nice!. First thing any little boy asks for is a tank it seems, and it is nice to have an easy to print, quick to print, and low cost to print option like this.

Comments deleted.

love your vehicle, but does it really move around?

has anyone else had trouble with the Otter turret not fitting in the hole in vehicle? I have tried several scales and its always too big to go in like all other turret vehicles in these sets do without fail. the hole seems small in vehicle but the turret is so big it is bigger than the Turret mostly, so I would say make Turret post smaller so it fits hole.

can it be fixed and updated so I can print it and finish a working model?

This model prints fine for me. Remember these models were made to be printed with a DLP resin printer, you just have to play
around with placement on the print bed to print on a filament printer
I just use a needle file or Exact-o knife and clean it up till the part fits.
Hey it's modeling after all.
Sometimes the easiest fix is just to manually remove material, or remix and edit the model to your own specifications.
rather than ask the author to fix it.

DLP files are SVG not STL

no these where designed for filament type printers and thats what Marco uses says his instructions. I dont have this issue with any of the others so figured its got an error and asked if others noticed and if Marco could narrow the Turret post a bit as its also bigger than the turret in places and its more than just sanding or trimming, its like .5mm too big at least so if resized the Turret is also smaller which it already is small looking. and I dont know khow to resize a part of a part. I didnt say anything when I 1st saw it but after printing dozens more of his models with no such issue I decided to say something as this was one of the 1st few designs

Let's put this one to rest for once and for all: DESIGNED FOR FDM.
These 1:200 models are designed to print on an UP (or UP Mini) FDM printer. The 1:100 models are also designed for FDM, but have some minor concessions made to some sizes to allow them to also print at 50% on my Form 1 SLA.

n2ri - The Otter was one of the very first models, and has only 0.1mm clearance. Nowadays I use 0.2mm. I haven't had trouble with it, but I'll send you a modified file to try. Look for a link in your messages here soon.

Thanks so much! I knew there was something different from the others that fit fine.

(。◕‿◕。)Amazing ! Great job ! Souvenir of childhood memories(。◕‿◕。)

I think the axle of turret should on the frame ,not on the turret
the axle does not print well

There are over 350 vehicles in this collection. I've printed every single one and can't remember any problems with any turret axle.

Any time it doesn't work for me I just change the orientation and it seems to work just fine. It might take a couple of tries but hey that's what this hobby is all about.
I wish I had your skill m_bergman, 350 vehicles wow I hadn't counted but wow. Every time I think of something I want to see you beat me too it. Once again thank you sir please keep it up! I'm holding off on attempting a Sherman Crab (flail mine clearing tank) a Sherman t-34 Calliope and Sherman tank dozer perhaps even a Canadian built Ram Kangaroo I'm sure your would look better!

these print just fine, so a big thanks to bergman for sharing these!! if a certain print doesn't work for you you could always redesign the file. complaining about how something is designed so well is a big 'booh'!

Comments deleted.

Any chance you would apply your amazing talents to some WWII 1:200 aircraft to add air support to the games?

This is incredible, i always wanted a little army of sherman tanks, my brother is into a game called flames of war where there are small tank models about this size, he'll be blown away when i get him an entire new tank battalion!

Flames of War uses 1:100 scale tanks. You'll need to scale these models by 200%.
There are some more-detailed (but harder to print) 1:100 tanks at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:769137

1:100 Tanks

Have you done artillery such as the M12

coming in pack 4 ( plus M26 Pershing, Marder I, ...)

I'm trying to print an Achilles's turret (I think this is the pack it's in), but my makerbot is refusing to print it with supports - has anyone managed to print it with supports?

Thanks for pointing that out.
He has attribution & the correct licence, so I'm not worried. I want my models to roam free.
It's people who use other people's stuff without even any credit that upsets me. I believe ALL designers deserve credit for their work.

p.s. don't worry my friend, there will be a 1:200 Pack 4 :)

I have been experimenting with these models, mostly scaling them up for use with my Kossel Mini. Last night I built a LittleRP DLP resin printer and selected the Sherman as my first print at the 1:200 scale. Wow, at that size it looks amazing, and I finally have a printer that can do the model justice at that size. Thanks so much for the entire series!

Try the 1:100 models at 50%. They were designed to be printable on my Form 1 SLA, so should work just fine for you. And they have twice as much detail. :)

I have printed out many of these. They have the right amount of detail and obviously are formatted with 3D printing in mind.

My son has massive tank battles. I've painted the tanks the appropriate colors and they work great.

Cool..... This would work great scaled to N scale model railroad

why does it say it will take me 376 hours to print ? ;)

YAY! Finally got recognition for all this great hard work! Congrats!

These tanks look awesome, I think I'll follow your page so I can see what all you come out with.

Congrat's on getting featured! I was curious, what do you model these in?

Excellent work. This is awesome.

about time these got featured,well done, keep up the good work

In 1:200 I always print the vehicles sitting on their tracks/wheels, and turrets with the gun barrels horizontal, for maximun strength (that's why the gun barrels have flat undersides). People printing these at FOW scales tend to prefer them sitting on their tails. Either way, never assume that the default orientation of an STL must be the correct one - use your experience to decide that. In this case, Solidworks offers up this orientation as default, and with hundreds of vehicles it's too much bother for me to adjust, especially as most people prefer the default anyway.

Which position is the best to print any of these tanks from any pack? Is is best to print track down like a normal tank? I ask because of your screenshot of the tank on its backside standing up in the "print preview" screen.

Which position is the best to print any of these tanks from any pack? Is is best to print track down like a normal tank? I ask because of your screenshot of the tank on its backside standing up in the "print preview" screen.

By the way, any possibility of seeing this in another format easier to edit than stl? (for adding support material manually)

All the models are available in parasolid .x_t format. Download the appropriate file (bergman-tanks-pack1-x_t.zip for this pack).

wow...Im blind. Anyway, thanks again, I´m enjoying like a kid :-)

Hey, Really good designs but I'm having a lot of trouble printing them from my 3D Systems cube, any advice?

What kind of trouble?

I'm extremely impressed with your simple but detailed design.
By the way, do you have Panther hull model with side skirt attached?
Hull without skirt feels empty. I'll look forward to your reply.

I'll try to remember to include skirted Panthers & Jagdpanthers with Pack 3-part 3.

Comments deleted.

Hi, I am really into tanks so first and foremost thank you for this, it is amazing! Secondly, I wanted to print it no my makerbot M2, is there any advice you can give? Last but not least, how do you get the files from here to the printer?

Is it possible to do this on key creator?

also need a T-54 Russian I think. found a Gcode of one and remixed it repaired but the tracks and wheels are separate and wont print right

I have now learnt to ignore the default UP placement, as it makes the removing of the support material so much easier!

I have made a few of these, and the detail is awesome!

I do print for 15mm (1.87x) however on the Up Mini I can not get the .15mm resolution and the barrels come out (in the words of Gail Simmons) fakey. I will proberbly pin brass tubes for the barrel, but is there a way to make the barrels that does not involve them looking like cam shafts or so encased in support material that I can not remove it?

Minor quibble in a awesome series of files. Now waiting for the Ratte! (No I am not) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landkreuzer_P._1000_Ratte

The parts are designed with 0.2mm as a layer height, so should be fine for the Mini.
All gun barrels should be printed horizontal on the UP, for strength and best finish. At 15mm scale, removing the supports should not be too great an issue, since I can manage it at 1:200. I use 0mm^2 and 80 degrees, and don't have too much trouble. Just nibble away at and pull out all the zig-zag support stuff first, then peel away the face mat. For prying out the underhanging bits, use an old xacto blade with the cutting edge and tip filed down to round. That'll give you a very strong poke-prod tool with a 0.5mm thick blade, but one that is too blunt to stab yourself with. Also suggest you try rotating the models 45 degrees in XY plane, because on the UP this gives much better side finish.
No Rattes for you. It wouldn't even fit on the table... Now a Karl, on the other hand...

this guy is a master at micro vehicle models. hope we can keep him motivated for many future packs. BTW what scale are flames of war vehicles?

flames of war are 1:100 I believe.

THanks!!!very good job!

Hey m_bergman, any chance we could get the wheels/tracks separated from the chasis? it will minimize overhang support generation... for now I'm splitting the models in half and printing each chasis with the tracks facing up, works perfect.

Thank you for posting these and for the hard work you put into creating them, I really appreciate it.

They are stl files and excellent with it. Have printed of quite a few now and highly recommend them.

how do i get these files into .stl?

I had an issue trying to make multiple tanks at once under high quality. I think the pla cooled down too far while it worked on the other tanks. I think that this is from trying to get the printer to do too much at once though. Printing a single tank at a time worked GREAT!

i have download , and if y give to replicator for g-code create , on the end from g-code edit , is over 10 lines on red , error for print .. i would not print if y have red lines .. just why you thing is to more error ? you have print under makerware or replicator ?
I can not launch the print .. i see not why ..
i can you write the message error on next echange ..
thanks if you give me a answer , a soon .. and very nice parts ;) its beautifull !

This would be a cool model to print in chocolate using a food 3D printer.

I'm having a problem, the turrets print great, but they tend to be too big to fit in the body. Is it just my printer or are other people having this problem as well?

The turret spigots are drawn 0.2mm smaller in diameter than the turret hole. Usually this is enough, but if you're unlucky there'll be a few ridges or bumps in the hole or on the spigot. If it happens to me, I run a sharp xacto blade around the hole circumference, and if it still doesn't fit, spin a bit of wet-and-dry around the spigot. It doesn't usually take very much.

Does anyone have advice for making the turrets?

They were designed to be printed sitting flat, sitting on their spigot. This orientation will give you stronger, cleaner-looking gun barrels which are pretty simple to remove from the supports because they have a flat bottom face.

GREAT ! its absolutly fantastic

I am new to 3D printing, but have recently gained access to our machine at work. I am eagerly awaiting Pack 2!!! It should be almost exactly what I have been looking for. I intend to grow some and post the pics after they are done. I was curious, are the tank turrets separate to allow for rotation? Many Thanks.

yes, the tanks turrets are separate :)

Absolutely fantastic , I have been increasing them by 187% to use as 15mm nad have found PLA to be perfect on a replicator 2 . If I could be impolite and make a request some more trucks would be very useful .

Have already modeled and printed a Studebaker (and a Studebaker Katyusha) for pack 2. Pack 2 will probably contain White scout car and US M9 halftrack too. But I do need an Opel Blitz sooner rather than later... so many vehicles to model, so few lunch breaks.

Ooh! Can you upload the Studebaker? I have a friend who would love to have a print of that.

Which orientation are they best printed in?

I always print these sitting on their tracks. Makes the guns as strong as possible, but means some fiddly support removal. (That's why all the gun barrels are drawn with a flat bottom.)

Other people seem to be printing them sitting up on end, which will mean very little support removal, but will make the gun barrels really, really fragile at 1:200. At 1:100, they would be ok.

I printed my first one with both parts vertical. It was 1:100 and barrel is rock solid. Very little support.
Maybe I will try the tanks flat, and the guns vertical.
Simplify 3d seems to make supports just fall off with zero effort, so interested to see what more it can do.

Wow, this brought a tear to my eye. Years ago when my children were about 12 my boys asked me what I wanted to do for fathers day, my choice was to spend the day building plastic models. One trip to the hobby store, $100 and an hour later we were doing just that. I built a early version tiger 1and the boys built german as well LOL. From this day on the dominating subject at the dinner table was tanks,armored cars, half tracks, transports and self propelled guns. The weight, the power, size guns, types of rounds etc. was all the rage as my wife shook her head.keep up the good work. hope you add the KV-1 and KV-2 to the line up. BTW it is strongly suggested that the T-34 was the best tank of WW2 having a reasonable main gun, sloped armor, diesel power and not to mention cheep as fuck when compared to the cost of a Tiger 1.

These are great, if you want to use them for flames of war (15mm) just print at 2x the size.

These are very nice models and they print really well. Is there any chance of there being some Russian tanks like the IS series and some T34s? That would be great if there was. Thanks for the great models. They are spectacularly awesome.

Am drawing Russian tanks now for pack2.
Currently have modeled and printed:
IS-2 early
IS-2 late
SU-76M early
SU-76M late
T-34 85 late
T-34 85 late with 'spider' wheels

I think I'll get a full 1944-45 Russian collection together and upload as pack 2 - hopefully early April.

Thanks. That would be great if they were up by early april. My friends and I play Flames of War and he really needs some IS-2s, so that would be great and work out well. I really appreciate it. Thanks again for all of the great tank models.

Tanks a lot. Many tanks.

I love how clear your instructions are. Thank you.

these models are great for showing people just how accurate printers can be, the level of detail in the models and in the print is amazing. Thank you for making a truly awesome set of military vehicles.

These are really nice. I scaled the Chevrolets up 2.3 times to use with 1/87th Minitanks/railroads. They still look good

Epic! Any possibility i can get my hands on the .prt-files? :)

Thank you, this is the best thing ever.
I was a huge fan of the "micro machines" toys when I was a kid, and my mom would never let me have enough of them. Now I can have as many as I want! Thanks again.

This is fantastic, thanks for posting this!

so fucking nice. I look forward to seeing all tanks ready. keep up the good work :D

Sehr gut! (That's my faux German)

are the supposed to be printed with the rear down on the bed

Yes this needs to be featured, Fantastic Work!
Thank you!

Feature this.... great work