The Open Source Outboard is a 3d printable outboard motor for rc watercraft. It is an original design that was developed as part of a larger effort of making an radio controlled fishing boat, a lofty goal. If you are going to shoot into the sky, at least aim for a star. That’s what mama always said.
View the Github Page for more information!
This is an adult toy and it should be used with caution. It has a blade that can spin very fast, held together with plastic threads extruded by your printer. I don’t trust my printer to make a shelf bracket that would hang above my head. So I do not EVER run this out of the water. One has not jettisoned yet, but it is a demonstrated possibility. PLEASE BE SAFE!
Open Source Outboard - Version 1 - Testing
[Single Motor Steering System - Version ALPHA - Build Log]
Open Source Outboard - Version 1 - Design Review
Open Source Outboard - Version 1 - Build Log
Dual Motor Steering System - Version ALPHA - Build Log
Bill of Materials
I'm linking to Amazon because it is fast and convenient. There are better prices to be found. I'm also linking to Accugroup because I like their selection and the hardware has been great quality. I live in the states and they are in the uk, but its worth the wait in my opinion. I only use stainless/torx type because dealing with a stripped screw in plastic is frustrating to put it politely.
Open Source Outboard
Single Motor Steering System
Dual Motor Steering System
Needs to be printed with a filament that has little shrinkage. I use PET-G, ABS is an option. PLA may not work, I haven't tried it however. These settings are required, because the design has dimensions that are multiples of that line width. This means all the parts can be printed at the same time. It also means, that if you find your hardware does not fit well (screws should slide through with little resistance, nuts should drop in nut traps but hold when being threaded) you can adjust the scale of the entire assembly. All the parts will fit together still and the hardware hole should change. This could affect the way the slicer plans the print, so check the layers for gaps before printing. Gaps in the walls is bad.
- .4mm nozzle
- .4mm line width
- .4mm wall thickness
- 100% infill
- No supports
- .2mm layer height or better
This requires a .4mm nozzle and these settings below.
.4mm line width
.4mm wall thickness
I have only tested it at .2mm layer height. Up to the adventurous to try it at a higher resolution.
The walls are built around a .4mm line width, so the walls range from 0.8mm (2 lines thick) to 1.8mm thick. If the wall thickness is set larger Cura would leave an empty cavity in the walls.
Clean up and preparation
Clean off any loose filament strands. Ream out axle hole in bottom of midsection - it has 2 layers at the ceiling to improve the bridging. Nothing should require much fiddling to get to fit.
I learned Fusion 360, then started building. I made a couple other versions before this, and added the things up that I learned and this is what I got.