Anet A8 Diagonal reinforcement

by photoberto May 29, 2017
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Hello photoberto,
I think this stiffener is great, but I have a different printer.
A CTC Prusa i3 Clone with wooden frame.
Do you like to draw a model that fits my printer?
On the picture you can see what it looks like for me.

Hi Ronny,
As I upgraded to a Tatara frame for my Anet A8, I don't do any upgrades for the diagonal reinforcement anymore. If your frame is 6mm thick, the top parts should fit easily. By the look of it on your picture it is. Furthermore, I noticed that the lead screw is sticking out, which may indicate that it is not far enough inside the coupling with the motor. If it is in far enough, just use Tinkercad to make a hole in the top part to fit your lead screw. If your frame is more than 6mm thick, you can easily change the space you need in Tinkercad as well.

Good morning Greetings from Germany, I own an anet a8 clones of ctc and the printer is the frame made of wood and only 5 mm wide, you could adjust the cad drawing so that it fits? Am very much convinced of your improvement. Kind regards

Hi bcubesystem,
As I am in the process of upgrading to a Tatara frame at the moment, I don't do any updates on this anymore. However the solution for your problem is easy: just print it as it is, mount the top pieces and put something in between under the top plate, like a part of an old credit card. It just needs to be 1 mm thick.

Here are LED mountings for your threaded rod modification you might find useful: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179195

Universal LED mount for support rod M10, M8, M6, 3/8", 5/16", and 1/4" rod

Would you mind making a version for a M10 threaded rod?

Thimoo, the original design was for M6, which is sufficient. Then I made an upgrade to M8 per request. M10 is overkill. Just make an M8 and you'll be fine!


M10 might be overkill but i have acquired a uncut galvanized length for free. So 10mm it is!

The problem is my local shop didnt have any M6/M8 threaded rods, only M10 which I bought, I tried to drill the holes bigger, but the angle was off so it didnt work.
I do not have the skills to change the modell myself, thats why I asked.

I'll see what I can do, but no time at this moment. Be patient...

Thimoo, the 10mm parts are ready. Have fun!

Hope you didnt forgot me. ;)

No, I didn’t but very very busy at this moment. Will come back to you in time

The 10mm version works near perfectly. the angle is spot on it has one small problem. The nuts on the 10mm are to large for the top mount it hits into the flat so you have to remove some plastic out to allow it to tighten down. Luckily i made the parts out of ABS i just used a dremil to cut out the nut size then put ABS juice over the top to smooth it back over and close a small hole made in the wall.

Oh, sorry! Didn’t think of that. Happy you’re still happy with the design.

Bolted up with m6 rod

Printed great and fit is awesome.

Many thanks to the creator

Does this also fit for the a6?
Thanks for responding.


I have no idea! But printing the parts is not really time consuming. Also the additional parts (threaded rod, washers and nuts) are cheap. Please print it, try it and let me know!


I just printed these, the bottom parts are fine, but the top ones do not fit the A6 top plates.

Well, they are designed for the A8! Put the .stl of the top parts in tinkercad and change it to your needs. Happy printing!

Just printed the modified parts for the Anet A6.

See here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799890

Thanks :)

Anet A6 diagonal supports
by seteq

Thanks! Great job for you and all other A6 owners.

I made this and it does make a real difference. I attached an MPU-6050 accelerometer to the top of the frame and printed the exact same test object, with and without the diagonal bracing. It really does make a difference to the vibrations and flex in the Y axis. In the two attached pics the Y axis is in blue and the x is in orange. Im very impressed..

Hi Simon, could you give us some numbers on that? Like, the variances or something that expresses the vibration intensity? Cause, in addition to Blv's comments below, it looks like the X-axis is taking over the vibrations from the Y-axis...

Hi Simon,

I got me a few of the MPU-6050 accelero's and played around with it, very nice! At first I used an Arduino, but finally I connected it to my Octoprint Raspberry Pi. I used some code from here: http://blog.bitify.co.uk/2013/11/interfacing-raspberry-pi-and-mpu-6050.html and followed the instructions. This gave some very nice results in OpenGl like in the the picture.
Thanks for the tip!


Very nice, Simon!! I'm impressed! Obviously I saw the difference while printing, but this is real prove! Thanks :-D

Is there any way you could make this work with the Y-axis chain mod? Where the chain is to the side of the bed? Otherwise, I might have to go to an under the bed mount but I'd hate having to take it all apart again... Thanks!
The chain comes too far forward and would hit the brackets on the lower half of the rod.

Same here...would love to have this improvement and still using the cable chain...

you can 100% still use the y-axis cable chain with this mod!

!! SO AWESOME!! Thanks for sharing this! This will definitely be my next mod now :)

edit: my bed is in the fully forward position in the photo

I don't know, to be honest! I don't have the Y-axis chain mod and this was just a fast way of reinforcing my printer. Maybe you can do a remix for it.

Sad update..

eventually i had to take it off. No doubt the upgrade made my printer more rigid.
but, apparently all the vibrations from the Y-axis moved to my X-axis and Y-axis vibrations to Y-axis !!
Before the upgrade i had a perfect X-axis lines and after the upgrade there was some weird lines and ghosting.
even though all belts were perfectly tighten and calibrated.
SO, i took it off and that's it.. Back to perfect Y-lines.

Hi Blv
I had the same problem. Bolting the printer on a 20mm Granite plate with 3 rubber bumpers under need, has resolved the noice and vibbration problem.

Sorry to hear it did not work out for you like it did for me. Maybe the other updates I did were compensating for the effects you got with this one, I really don't know.

Happy printing, amigo

Wow thanks, I've been meaning to make this myself but couldn't really picture how I would get the struts to fix to the frame. This is definitely one of the the best stability mods for the A8 especially if you put it on a spongy mat like we both have done to minimise noise.

Comments deleted.

How long must a cutted rod be (please in cm) ? I've to do it before my printer is build.

As said in the the summary, you need 1 meter treated rod. Cut it in half and you'll be fine.

... oh man, reading is easy ... in my case a need an exact length

2x 46.5cm give or take a millimeter

Thanks, I've to take it via airplane hand luggage precut to my apartment outside Germany.

What strange place you go to that there is no treated rod? I've been around to a few places and there was rod everywhere. Taking an airplane and bringing the rod with you is more difficult, I guess.

They let you take threaded rod in the cabin? :O

As per request from Tomo30 also a version for 8mm (5/16") treated rod

Greatly appreciated! Printing now! I'll be sure to add pictures once completed :)

I love this design. Would you be able to also provide an M8 version?

Should be no problem, will work on it the coming days.