Other materials required:
- 30 5mm blue or white LEDs
- You won't need all 30 but that gives room for duds
- 100 ohm resistors (1 for each LED)
- 24 gauge copper wire
- An old USB cord
- 3 M2 x 20mm bolts
- Entire model shrunk to 80% of original size
- Crystal Ring and Main Crystal modified to fit 5mm LEDs after shrinking
- Caps shrunk to 77% of original size to keep a tighter fit
- Support cage:
- Modified to fit 5mm LEDs
- Fillets applied at the base of the top arms to prevent them from snapping off
- Fillets applied to the top of the top arms to help them insert into the Crystal ring easier
- Hole size increased on Main crystal, Lower center, and Upper center to fit m2 x 20 screws
- Print the support cage at 100% infill
- Crystals can be done in translucent or white filament. Play with the infill density and type to get the desired lighting. I used 30% infill on translucent filament with a cubic subdivision pattern.
After printing, LEDs need to be inserted into the crystal ring and the support cage. Add hot glue under the LEDs in the support cage to keep them in (shown in photos). LEDs should be wired in parallel and each LED should have a resistor. It does not matter if the resistor is on the anode or the diode. Copper wire can be threaded through the support cage to connect the ring LEDs with the ones in the support cage.
For the USB cable, cut off the other end (I used a micro USB cable), and you should see 4 wires. Cut down the ones that are not red and black. The red and black ones are power and ground, respectively. Wire those directly to your circuit.
Wrap copper wire around the caps, and use super glue at the ends. After the glue has dried, use wire cutters to trim the bottom so that they can be placed over the Crystal Ring.
Push the caps onto the crystal ring until they are all the way down. Push the crystal ring onto the support cage while threading the power and ground leads through the arms (see photo). Make sure the LEDs are trimmed short enough that they don't interfere with putting the crystal on the support cage.
Screw together the Main crystal, Lower center, and Upper center with the M2 screws. They will be very tight on the first time. Just screw them in with a handheld screwdriver. Once done, push the whole assembly into the support cage. The LEDs in the support cage should have a tight enough fit to the main crystal to hold it all in.
Run the USB cable through the Back Cap and solder it to the wiring on the bottom of the support cage. Slide the Back Cap up and hot glue it to the support cage.
LEDs not fitting?
If you are printing on a heated build platform, sometimes the bottom layer ends up expanding a little bit because it is slightly soft. This ends up making the holes for the LEDs slightly smaller than they should be. To verify if this is the problem, insert the LED from the other side and see if it fits. To fix this, trim the edges of the holes on the bottom layer with an exacto blade. The LEDs should just press in tightly, and stay without glue.