TEVO Little Monster Duet WiFi/Ethernet Conversion (With 7" PanelDue)

by Emulsifide Jun 2, 2017
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After reading through your build, i've decided to take the plunge and give it a shot, really appreciate all your work!

A Mk2 7 " PanalDue Display doesn't fit in this box :( The stand off inside are in the way

Correct. That's stated in the thing details:

"After printing, the two tallest screw mounts on the model must be removed (just snap them off) or they will interfere with the latest PanelDue design."

Yer see that now :) bit hidden in all the text :) I've just removed them from the model now, Save printing them :) The print failed anyway so no big lose. I've put holes in the bottom now for the cables to run though. Do you want a copy ?

No, but thank you! I figure keep the posts there in case someone decides to do the conversion with the older model PanelDue.

Hi Andrew,
Thanks very much for sharing this conversion process.
Approximately how long did it take you to complete and get it working?
Kind Regards,

A couple hours tops. After re-pinning the connectors for the different ones that come with the Duet3D, it was smooth sailing from there. Just make sure you test everything before you attempt to print. Work all of the axis, check to make sure the heaters work and the thermistors are reporting properly (I used an infrared temperature gun), and decrease the Z height so that when the machine attempts to calibrate using the BLTouch, it's actually trying to touch mid air. You then use your finger to trigger it so that you can see it will work when you bring it down to the bed (instead of having it crash into it).

Thanks very much for the info and helpful advise.
I just went to order the board and screen but unfortunately the screens are out of stock at the moment.
As soon as they come back into stock I will order the kit and give it a go.
Thanks again

Hi Andrew,
First off, thanks for taking the time to write this up. Should be a great help!
This might be a stupid question:
I was trying to manually enter the settings on the config generator but have run into an error.
In the box for Delta Radius I put 157 (also found in your config and in the original for the mks)
However, I cannot set the Printable Radius to 175, it expects it to be no larger than 157.
Am I mixing two values up? Is the naming scheme different in this firmware.
Thanks for any help you can offer.


Great question (definitely not stupid). I don't know if there's a bug with the config generator or not, but I ran into the same problem. Just put something in there to satisfy the generator and then change it on your own after-the-fact to 175. That's what worked for me.

Great! Thanks for the tip! Was beginning to question my sanity

Any chance you can post\include the Simplify3D profile you've been using? Would be great to have something like that to start with too. thanks!

The stock Simplify3D settings are all fine except for the startup and ending scripts. Here's what I'm using:

Starting Script:
M98 Pbed.g
G1 X0 Y0 Z100 ; lift nozzle to 100mm

Ending Script:
G28 ; home all axes
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motors

Remove any other G-Code Simplify3D has in the TEVO default profile.

In that case, I guess my question is, stock for what? Meaning, what preset did you base you settings on? Thanks!

The stock TEVO Little Monster profile.

So, maybe I'm a dummy. Where did you get that profile? I found a pdf for configuring the start\end gcode, and a manual that had some Slic3r settings, but no S3D profile. Am I missing something obvious here? (probably).

Use the Configuration Assistant:


The pre-configured profiles come with Simplify3D.

lololol : I've been dealing with a custom printer so long I forgot that was even a thing. Thanks! :)

What size bolts are you using to assemble the case? I have a bunch of M3, but they don't seem to fit. I figured M2? Figured I'd get it from the horses mouth though. Thanks for the design!

I used M3 after I tapped the holes for it.

Thank you for your detailed instructions as I desperately need to upgrade my TEVO Monster. It has been out of commission for the last two weeks as I learned every component's operation in greater detail trying to fix what was ultimately a failing MKS-SBASE controller.

I will be making the upgrade as soon as I get my Duet Wifi controller. Can't wait to print again.

First and foremost, thank you, Andrew, for your contribution to the community and knowledge to help even me towards a successful conversion. Here are some additional tips to keep in mind:

  1. Take pictures and/or document all the connectors! I snipped a connector off my stepper motors and didn't realize some wires were swapped. Also, the BLTouch wires may not be the same colors for some people.

  2. This got me and will likely get you. The config.g has the line "M665 R157 L397.1073 B175 H525" Let's adjust the H525 to a realistic value by homing the machine and manually decreasing the Z till the nozzle reaches the bed (Do NOT immediately gcode it to 0!) subtract the remaining value on the display from 525 and that should be your H value.

  3. If you purchased the PT100 sensor then change the "M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700"… line in config.g to "M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 X200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 and remap it to channel 200". Increase the max temp at your own risk. :-)

My journey posts:

Can you round off the back panel corners to fillet the same radius as the cover? :-)

I second that... if you could radius the back cover to match, it looks a lot better in the finished piece.

I notice you are using the E0 endstop for the BL-Touch instead of the Z-Probe socket. Any particular reason for that change?

Yes. This is how the BL-Touch configuration thread on Duet3d.com's forum has it set up. I'm not questioning it because it works :-D

OK, I was just wondering if there was a specific reason. E0 should work fine but supposedly the Z-Probe input has more protection according the David Crocker. I'll use your configs and adapt it the Z-Probe in. I just finished wiring up the Duet WiFi and am now at the configuration stage. I reused the TEVO housing and now need to figure out a new faceplate to clean it up.

While the Tevo M3 standoffs work, the Duet was designed around M4 mounting hardware. Since I was drilling anyway I switched to M4.

Thank you very much for your work.
Is it possible to see a wiring diagram for changing the MKS to Duet board, or a larger picture ?
That would be great und very helpful.

Thank you


Sorry for the delayed reply. The wiring diagram on Duet3d's web site is what you should be following for everything except the BL-Touch connections (which can be found in the text file I've included in the project). You can't rely on colors of the wiring because they're sometimes inconsistent between revision of these Chinese 3d printers. I do not recommend doing this conversion unless you completely understand each component of your TEVO Little Monster, what it does, and what the connections are.