This is a remix of 4MULE8's excellently modeled Doctor Doom mask. The only alteration is that I have cut holes through the mask where the rivets were.
I had no issues with the original mask, with the sole exception of the rivets. Whilst they look good (placement and size are good, etc) they didn't look quite good enough for my liking. The problem being that they had no underside, which made them look like they were part of the same piece of material as the rest of the mask (in part because they were).
My solution was to cut holes through the mask where the rivets were, and insert stationary split-pins through the holes during the build stage of production. This lent the mask that bit more finesse and, in my opinion, really enhanced the look of the finished product.
You can see the type of split-pin I used in one of the photos above.
Due to the size of my print bed, I had to print the mask in quarters (props to 4MULE8 for providing many print options). This remix includes 2 of those quarters (top-left and bottom-left) which can be mirrored in your slicer to print all 4 pieces. As I only needed the pieces provided, I only remixed the pieces provided.
The print settings I have provided were the ones I ended up using and are what I consider the most reliable from my experience. I had bed adhesion issues with the piece, hence the raft suggestion. Your mileage may vary, of course.
Please enjoy, and good luck!
If anyone can tell me why the photos all came out landscape rather than portrait (their original orientation) and how I can fix it, that would be appreciated!
After sanding and rinsing
The quarters were stuck together using auto body filler. I wanted to use CA glue but due the imperfections in my printer's output the surfaces weren't closely enough aligned for that. The auto-body filler worked really well and allowed me to really get to work on hiding the seams (although I wish I had spent more time on that, in retrospect).
Once stuck together, the whole piece was then rigorously sanded down with 80 grit sandpaper to try and even out the surface and get rid of as many layer lines as possible. This took a lot of work, especially in some of the nooks and crannies which the geometry of this mask offers.
Once I had sanded it back as far as possible without reducing the walls to nothing, I applied a coat of auto body filler over the whole thing. Once dry, I sanded that back with some 120 grit. This process filled in the smaller gaps and troughs in the surface and really gave me a nice smooth surface to work with, but not quite smooth enough.
Mask with auto body filler coat
To get the surface as smooth as possible, I hit the whole thing with a few coats of sandable filler primer. This allowed me to take the primer down with some 400 grit sandpaper and smooth out any minor pits ahead of painting the piece.
After the black coats
After the Silverchrome coats
Starting to look pretty sweet...
Once it was all painted, I painted the split-pins and glued them in place. I found it best to open the split pins fully (all the way to the head) to reduce the amount of rattle. I then lined the mask with some fabric and affixed some elastic to keep it on my head.
The completed article is comfortable and secure on my head
The type of split-pin I used
The finished article in Doom-esque green light
The finished article in regular white light
The fabric and elastic - not a great photo!