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rjpost942

MP Select Mini Controller Board Fan Mount by NF6X Remix

by rjpost942 Jun 4, 2017
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That is the best option, unfortunately I have the older version of the board, without the second fan connector. My fan runs continuously when the power is on, but I used the nearly-silent Mini-Kaze fan as suggested in the original mix, and later added another 40mm X 10mm fan on a custom printed left side panel, near the Z-axis stepper, which runs quite hot on long print jobs. With 40mm heatsinks mounted on both steppers, and the two fans, now good circulation and noticeably warm air exhausted on the left side. The combination of passive and active cooling seems to be keeping the steppers happy ...
Already replaced the X-axis bearings with Igus Drylin bushings (you can see them in the first photo above), which are virtually silent in operation and eliminate backlash, and working on a longer ABS bearing block to hold two 8mm Drylin bushings in tandem for each shaft on the Y-axis carriage ...
Also suggest a good quality 10mm dual ball bearing fan for about 10 to 12 bucks, to replace the stock extruder fan, which gets noisy real fast. I wasted at least that much on several cheap fans that rattled and emit over 20db at full speed, a good ball bearing fan will reduce the noise by half ...
Its a bit of work, but it is possible to get the Mini running both cool and quiet ... :-)

My printer had an unused fan connector that I could just plug in to. It looks like this:
http://mpselectmini.com/mainboard_cooling_fan

Sorry I didn't make a video. You can release the contacts in these connectors by gently pressing in on the metal tang on the side of the nylon plug with a toothpick and pulling on the wire. The tang will re-engage when you push the wire back in. I just picked at the part of the crimp over the insulation with a dental tool until it was a little loose, then stripped the fan lead about 3/8', and wrapped the stripped wire around and under the loose crimp tab. Then I re-tightened the crimp with needle-nose pliers, and re-inserted the contact back into the nylon housing until the tang locked again. There are some good videos on YouTube that show how to remove and replace the crimped contacts in this type of connector. I still think its safer than soldering on the board, and worst case you could always just replace the plug with a new one, Amazon has the kits for this. Another possibility is a splice tap like Posi-Tap at https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

any chance you add a video showing how to wire it?