Anycubic Linear Plus Cura Profile

by jdharris Jun 5, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

[3/19/19 UPDATE:] Works like a charm in Cura 4.2.1

Update: Well, not so quite,... when i have an "relative" low part, lets say <10cm the homing movement starts with only one Stepper and it smaches the printhead against the rail before the slider reaches the endstop. plz somebody help

Okay so the problem im having even with your profile for latest cura is that my printer starts printing at home instead of lowering to the print bed, i have no clue how to fix this so i can export to sd card and print from card. also a dumb question but how do i print via usb and cura?

Thanks for this helpful tool.
For Macbok please go this way:(mine is Cura4.0.0)
/Applications/Ultimaker Cura.app/Contents/Resources/resources/definitions

Where is the cura profile file?

The profiles are located within the zip files you download in the Thing Files section. Please know that is is a machine profile, not a print profile.

Oh, I guess that is why I couldnt find it. haha. Do you have a print profile for the Anycubic Kossel you could share?

hi, can you edit profile for anycubic predator? 370455mm
notwithstanding i changed setting to this size in cura, it still uses 230
300mm :/, i think there is problem with triangle stand?

Pls update for Cura 4.0

So far, same installation proceedure applies, but you will need to be in the Ultimaker Cura 4.0 folder.

Hi, can you create PLA Filament example profile for Cura 3.5-6, for Linear Plus, for noobs? (speed, borders, cooling and etc...)

Hello. I have a Anycubic Kossel Pulley vetsion with 200 O.D build plate. I cannot get Cura Vetsion 2.1.2 or higher to print!
The older 15.x version works fine when setup as deltabot style. When I try to setup Cura 2.1.2 or higher same way, it hanshakes with Anycubic firmware and display reboots. I can import models to the build plate etc. However when I select print, the Anycubic doesn’t respond with a Heating Bed message. The bed or extruder DO NOT HEAT, Cura just says printing and nothing more happens. I have to the best of my abilities tried to follow your instructions here copying the two files from your older version zip. I can then see the choice for the Anycubic Kossel when adding printer. However still no heating of bed or extruder. Shows connected on correct serial port at top (greyed out) I see no place to set port or baud ratein these newer version of Cua, how does Cura v2.1.2 or above know what my usb port 3 baud rate is set at? I even tried copying and pasting the older Cura 15.x START and END G-Codes into the newer version of Cura, replacing the existing codes found in there. Nothing makes the newer Cura versions heat and actually print! This is very frustrating cause I want to use the new extra “use build support” options within the newer Cura software for my 3d prints that have overhangs that need build suport.


Comments deleted.

Hi, Josh,
i'm pretty new to cura, just installed ver 4.0 beta and your plugin work near perfect for my anycubic kossel plus linear.

Please i have 2 question for you if possible:
a) there is a way to change the printer image ? i use a more datiled (with display) stl file. i can send to you if useful.
b) i have added a 2nd extruder (1 hot extruder, 2 motor with a "Y" bowden), did you know how i can add to cura 2nd extruder ?



I’m sorry for the delayed response. I had responded to this message earlier after you posted, but for some reason it didn’t come through.

Quick summary, in the same resources folder where the definitions and extruders folders are, there is another folder that has all of the STL images for the printers. Put the STL in that folder and in the definition. json file you can update the STL image it is referencing. Additionally, modification has to be done in this definition .json file to accommodate for both extruders. There are two places in this file to edit. Lastly, a second extruder .json file has to be created and added to the extruder folder. It should be named incrementally to number 1 instead of 0. After you have edited all the firmware to get it running like the single nozzle like a Creality CR-X. After this has been figured out, gcode start codes, and possibly extruder start gcode a will need to be created to reference tool changes (T0 and T1). Reference how this is accomplished on the CR-X start Gcodes will help. Just remember that one extruder has to retract the filament all the way back to the Y and then insert the filament from the other extruder.

I have updated the profiles to represent a clear structural and coding change from Cura 3.4 and below, and Cura 3.5 and above. Again, as a reminder, I have a kossel pulley profile as well as a kossel plus profile included in both the old and new versions of the machine profiles. I am not sure if it will help anyone, but it's at least a starting point for someone!

Works fine for me after changing the filament diameter setting to 1.75mm. before that it was (of course) underextruding. so beware of that.
thanks for the work!

Previous versions of Cura had a filament diameter setting in all of the settings on the left side of the screen. Starting about version 3.5 they removed this setting and as a result most individuals don’t go looking for this setting to update it any more. I will look at the machine profile again to see if I can update it.

**Updates have been made.

Ah thanks for noticing that! I was wondering why my prints were so terrible with this profile :) Indeed filament diameter is at 2.85 by default, needs to be changed to 1.75

Comments deleted.

There is an issue with Cura 3.6. The json file calls out "travel_speed" in both the start and end script. Cura 3.6 (and maybe some versions earlier) changed the variable name to "speed_travel". If you leave it as is the start part of the .gcode will have a G1 {travel_speed} that confuses the printer.

I tried this on a new machine that smashes the build plate on the first (an multiple layers if you let it) It still doesn't work, I followed instructions to a "T" and still it does it, re-leveled 5 times no change.

hey! a lot of friends have the same issue of the head smash the build plate, the instructions that comes in the box are wrong in when say how to plug the XYZ stops, check the board.

Not doubting you, but did you try to see how the hot end reacts when you manually lower it down to where X,Y,and Z are all =0?

The profile has nothing to do with your hot end crashing in to the build plate. That is controlled by the G-Code that is fed into the machine which is controlled by the firmware. If the z-height is correct and everything else is correct then you can go in to the monitoring portion of Cura and if you are connected via USB to your printer you can manually type in the command G1x0y0z0 and send it to your printer. If it the printer has been setup correctly, then it should lower to the center of the plate and have just enough clearance that you can get a slight tug on a piece of paper that is between the nozzle and build plate. If not, you have some more work todo. In addition to setting the Z-height, you also need to calibrate each of the towers on a delta to ensure that they are also at the correct height. Once that is done, then level your bed. If it still crashes into the bed, you have something mechanically wrong with your printer. Again, not the profile's fault as all it does it gives you a picture to resemble your printer and its constraints in Cura as well as a beginning and ending G-Code to make your sliced object actually work.

I'm just shooting in the dark now. Anycubic does not specify a manual calibration nor do they specify the distances of the arms, stops or screws. I just set everything exact to one arm using a digital caliper (minus the actual arm rods) and at the top I have like 294.9 mm at top of the auto home and it is about to touch the plate at 2.6mm so, if what I'm gathering here is auto-calibration doesn't work, and the endstops need to be adjusted as 0 is actually like -3 mm.

The thing is, I don't know if I should lengthen the stops or shorten, and even if I get it working, auto-level is completely useless and now I'm stuck with a faulty machine from china.


Use this to help calibrate each tower:

There is also reference at the bottom of page 4 in the older instruction manual stating the height of the screws on top of each carriage should be 8mm. You then adjust these screws up and down as indicated in the above link. If you need to get the nozzle down, screw it in. If you need to back the nozzle off of the plate, loosen the screw.

Before doing any of these items, you need to set the z height first. I know you can edit the firmware through arduino, but I think you can also just follow step 2 for leveling in the newer instruction manual. You may also need to fine tune with z offset. There may be a place in that same menu area for setting the z height manually without nodding the firmware.

Kossel plus /Anycubic Plus - Manual Bed leveling shortcut
by deosys

Yeah, the problem is there is no manual adjustment, only auto, and the problem is the end-stop switches are mounted on the rails and can be moved around, my printer came with those peices in somewhat random places, so even if I adjust it to 8mm (I measured all to 8.8) that may be moot if the switch is in the wrong position to begin with- I adjusted them all even with one-another, but even if I move the switches up and down I get the same results.
Even when I pause the print hit Z+ like 10 times to get the proper layer, half of the bed is un-level, probably due to an arm or two that is too long or short.

Anycubic designed this machine 100% reliant on the probe and firmware working, my problem is that it isn't storing the data. It also de-activates the steppers after 1 minute of inactivity- so leave it alone pre-heating and you come back to a nice hole in the new buildplate.

This thing is turning out to be a $230 joke, but I'm not laughing.
However I thank you for trying to help me trouble shoot this thing.

No problem. If you haven’t tried support yet, please do so as they are good. Also, there are a few groups on Facebook called Anycubic Kossel 3D Printers and Anycubic 3D Printer Support Group that may be able to help.

It looks like it might be working now. I was just looking over the settings and under control I reset the memory, went through the leveling process, and then when it completed I stored there and then stored under control memory, then once I did a couple test layers, I saved there again.

Still seems like bed is somewhat unlevel as one side is just slightly closer than the rest. I'm assuming doing the mechanical adjustment without touching auto will fine tune the machine.

Try to calibrate the towers like I sent a few responses ago. It will fix that issue and then re-level the bed.

Sure as hell it worked! tedious process but it's running as well as my Qidi X-one 2. The hotend sprung a leak, but I got that fixed too. I guess the trick is to make sure everything is perfect before you put it together, don't assume pre-assembled parts are correct.

Thanks a ton.

Glad that it did! It took me a while to get mine going but it is a great machine when it all works like it’s suppose to! Have fun.

oh boy, it's leaking again, closer inspection shows that the throat tube (not threaded in heatsink) is improperly cut, so it cannot make a seal. Unfortunately it is a proprietary part. Any-pubic hasn't gotten back to me either.

Im a new user still trying to get my printer to work with any model other than one supplied of a dog provided by Larry from support at anycubic.... my printer loves ...simply adores printing approx 200mm off the bed on mid air lol.... I truly appreciate you sharing your configuration ... its greatly appreciated


Thank you for your contribution and of course sharing your work with the community!
Currently, I have two linear plus versions both with auto leveling. Does this setup include the parameters to accommodate this?
Thanks in advance!

Cura does not control auto leveling, that is within the firmware of the printers. It is possible to modify the start GCode to automatically initiate the bed leveling sequence when you print an object, but that would be a modification you can make on your own.

In Cura> Settings>Printer> (select your printer and activate it)>Machine Settings>Start G-Code

Please reference here: http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/auto_bed_leveling.html

@jdharris: Thank you so much for this profile. I can report that it also works for Cura 3.4.1 on macOS.

Installing this profile on macOS:

  1. Open a new Finder window.
  2. Type Shift-Command-G to get the "Go to location" prompt.
  3. Type: /Users/your_username/Library/Application Support/cura/3.4/definitions
  4. Copy the anycubic_plus.def.json file into the definitions folder.
  5. Quit and restart Cura - it only reads new definitions while starting up.

This profile is working great for me on Cura 3.3.1. My own profile worked fine except if the model had any protrusions at the top. The JD Harris profile solved this problem for me.

I used the file with cura 3.3 => perfect prints.
Changing to cura 3.4 I got some trouble until I found the .json files in the
'C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 3.4\resources\definitions' directory.

there are additional directories
'C:\Users\ralfd\AppData\Local\cura . . . '
'C:\Users\ralfd\AppData\Roaming\cura . . ' with data.
Thank you verry muche for your work

Thank you for the comment. I have not used 3.4 yet, but will soon. So, are you asking if the json file needs to be in the other directories as well, or stating there are now additional directories where the profile should be included?

It works well. Thanks. as a beginner, I really appreciate

I have the anycubic linear plus, I just had to tweak the dimensions to 230 dia, 300 Z
perhaps they changed it on the later models

Unless Anycubic has used longer pieces of extruded 2020 for the height, I wouldn't recommend changing too much of the dimensions on the height. It was smaller on purpose to ensure that prints would fit within the build area and it wouldn't cause any issues with the hotend crashing into the top of the print when printing a large item and then the end homing lower than the max height. Think if it like a safe margin to keep items within.

However, you can certainly adjust the dimensions to your liking as there is nothing stopping you. I just wanted you and anyone else who reads your commend to know the purpose of the different dimensions. Also, most Linear Plus had a build area of 240mm, the newer seems to show a smaller diameter plate in the photo, but you may want to measure to ensure that it is 230mm.

If you put the file into C:\Users[username]\AppData\Roaming\cura\3.3\definitions it should be migrated to the next Cura version automatically, so updating will be easier.

On Linux I had to put it into "/usr/share/cura/resources/definitions"

You saved me from a certain heart attack. Thank you!

hi will this work for pulley version or is it just for the plus as i have had my printer for a few weeks now and i just cant get cura setup

The dimensions of the build area would have to be changed but it would work. Remember that this is a profile for the printer, not printer settings for print quality.

hi yes thats what i was looking for i have put the file in cura folder but i cant find it in profile

Please make sure it is in the correct folder and restart Cura and it should be available under Settings>Printer>Add Printer and it will be listed in the Other.

Just to say - YAY - this worked right off the bat - very many thanks for sharing.


Thanks for the profile! I try on Cura 3.1 and works fine.
I have a problem with the size of the plate.
The printer can't print out of a circle about 80mm radius (the white circle in the image).

JSON-File for version 3 is also "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 3.x\resources\definitions".

Thanks for pointing out the new file path. I have updated the instructions.

Thank you, Finally got it working...

One question, Z shows 270. Should I change it to 300?

That will be up to you. The manual states that the height is to be set to 270 and it has worked well for me. You are welcome to change yours and hope that it all works out!

This worked perfectly, thank you!


OSX users can open finder and then select Go->Go to Folder (CMD+SHIFT+G) and paste the above path into the destination. Within the definitions folder you can paste the anycubic json file. When you open Cura again and go to add a printer, you will see Anycubic Linear Plus.

does this profile work with cura 3.0?

I haven’t had an opportunity to try it yet. However, if all is still the same within the software then it should work.

which version of cura have you last tested working with this profile? I have not been able to get cura to detect my printer through usb. profile loads up but it says no printer connected.

I just downloaded and installed 3.0.3 and the .json profile worked great. I do not think you will need the rest of the instructions to make the printer show if it isn't plugged in via USB. Just place the .json file and then startup Cura and select the correct profile when adding your printer.

Comments deleted.

It can work with AnyCubic Linear classic ?

It can, but you will need to change a few settings in printer settings for the smaller bed size. The name will still appear as the Anycubic Linear Plus when you first choose the model.