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bosbessenbasje

Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus LCD enclosure

by bosbessenbasje Jun 6, 2017
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difficult print indeed! I only have a pei sheet so I didn't want to print face down. after making sure the model was "laid flat" in cura under the rotation controls and support degrees set pretty high (around 80 or 85 I believe) it's looking more like a good clean print.

thanks for the design!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

...Soo the supports wiggled out and the top didn't make it. laid it face down and it's going now... but thought I'd share a setting in cura I found today. minimum join length of support.

once bumped up to 4 mm or so the two support structures become one where you don't have that thin wall for the edge of the LCD opening. just thought I'd share.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I am glad that you were able to work it out!

For me, at least, using Cura -- printing this face down with Support Placement set to Everywhere resulted in a perfect print. Took about 8hrs @ 30mm/s (0.15mm layer height).

hi,
ive got the cocoon create same as your wanhao. i really like your setup.
could you guide me to the files you use to get the z braces printed?
thanks heaps.

also, did you get the hardware from bunnings?

paul.

Hi Paul,

Sorry for the late reply, I do not monitor this frequently. To make things worse, I can't find the z-braces anymore...
You could have a go and follow/ask this facebook link, as they were discussing it (and seem to be using the same):
https://www.facebook.com/groups/i3plus/permalink/2041974089462700/?comment_id=2042255022767940&reply_comment_id=2044293682564074&notif_id=1529322449593227&notif_t=group_comment_reply

This comes close (sorry, don't remember if I this one or something similar): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1979903

No, I got my hardware from the local DIY store (living in the NL).

Marcel.

COMPLETE Z-Brace Mod For Wanhao Duplicator I3, Maker Select, and Cocoon Create 3D Printers ALL REQUIRED PARTS IN ONE PRINT

oh great. thank you!

Why not print this with the front facing down? You could then print using a larger layer height without it affecting the from surface quality. Also if you're printing on glass the front would have a nice shiny surface.

I printed it as shown yesterday and unfortunately didn't read the "face down" suggestion until I was over an hour into the print. The supports were so hard to remove that I started a face-down print this morning. Hopefully I'll have better luck and will post the results if so.

Yes, certainly true. Didn't think of that at the time. Mostly because I had/have a lot of designs warping on the bed. Placing it face down would increase the risk of warping considerably. But nevertheless, an excellent idea!

Is there actually an in-depth guide or video as the description suggests? I haven't been able to find anything
Cheers!

Which guide are you looking for?

If you cut the bottom bracket of the back of the print, you don't have to remove the cable to seat it correctly. I took a Dremel to do that because I couldn't get the LCD cable to seat correctly when the LCD was in the bracket.

Other than that problem, the LCD worked out for me. I suggest putting a second screw hole for the LCD so it straightens out. With only one hole, the LCD tiles on the side a little bit.

Nice idea. Just fire up fusion 360 and change it. Would love to see the result.

Good idea! Been trying to get that dang ribbin back in!

What size screw do you use? An m3 doesn't grab anything at all.

M4, the original ones...

I think I used an m3 screw. IIRC an m4 screw is way too big. I think my printer is slightly printing undersized so that's why I could screw in m3 just fine.

Also if you remove the bottom bracket, you could print this without supports and just lay the print on its face.

My m4 screw also needed some persuasion...

Would you still have the bottom plate designed it would be nice to have the option. great design the ribbin cable needed a bit of persuasion but i can see that there is not a clear way to make that better.

I have lost the files, sorry... you could take the fusion 360 file and design it yourself, should not be that difficult.

Its very difficult to get good piece out of this design. I suggest the designer to divide the assembly into two pieces with snap fit.

Please feel free to do so. That is why I have provided all the files. I would love to see the result!

I am using Cura to print this part. When using supports would you recommend supports everywhere or just touching the build plate?

There is an idea to print it face down, that solves the issue of the support.

Do you reuse the rod holder screws, I see you mention keeping one to remount the rod holder ... However do you have to replace one the two screw to mount the Display?

It has been almost a year now... I can't remember. What I do remember is that I reused the screws of the printer to secure everything. It has been working in that configuration ever since...

Hi,

As far as I remember I did not use any other screws than those that came of the i3 itself. I have a small box with leftover screws that I didn't put back though (I am lazy).

That being said, there are reports of users that had to use a different screw, because the original was too short.

My advise would be to try to use the original screws, and if they don't fit (too short), replace it with a longer one.

I'd like to do this as well as the firmware update, but I only recently got my printer and I'm worried it would void the warranty. Anyone have any light to shed on the subject?

Thanks

If you have Wanhao I3 plus, why do you think warranty would be voided? You can always go back to original FW.

But yes its better to play with your printer for a while before upgrading to new FW as you will know the issues with the original FW and HW.

Yes, your warranty will be void. There is no way around that. On the other hand, I never used the warranty and fixed any issues myself with the help of the internet community. But then again, that is me. I cannot speak for you.

By the way, upgrading the firmware can be undone, if needed (not that I did it). The ADV++ firmware is well worth the upgrade though!

Alright I think I'm gonna take a crack at it.

First I wanna confirm a couple things - How many versions of the custom firmware for this specific device are out there? Is the ADVi3++ the go-to and/or only option?

Also where's the best walk-through for getting this done right? YouTube didn't turn up much and I'm more comfortable with hardware than software, so I want to make sure I do it right.

Cheers!

Thanks for this amazing upgrade, along with software update ADVi3 ++, I got a brand new machine.

you're welcome!

Thanks for this, makes the printer so much nicer to use. Thanks for including the IGES file, as you can see I did a minor remix.

Great design, but I've got a weird one: Display works perfectly but the Touchscreen isn't working for me in the enclosure.

When I put it back, it's fine, but in the enclosure, No Touch, just display. I'm HOPING it's the ribbon connector (Gonna order one as it's cheap), but frankly I've no idea.

Any suggestions? Maybe something is no longer grounded?

Hey, also a bit late but I had this same issue to start with. As ppardee mentions below, the LCD is not multi-touch.

I found a blob inside that was pushing on the LCD and registering as a touch. Cleaned it up and problem fixed.

I have never heard about this problem. It is also quite unlikely. It could be that the cable from the display to the main board is broken or has some issues. There are several makes out there, and nobody reported this. So I think your problem, how inconvenient it is, is just an incident.

You say that the display works when outside the enclosure. Do you mean, really outside. So no original enclosure and no new one. If that is the case, It cannot be a grounding issue.

What material did you use? Is it somehow conductive?
Are you sure that no components on the display or connector are touched when sliding the display in?
Check the ribbon connector on both ends with a loupe to check if all the soldering connections are still in place.

Further than that, I wouldn't know.

My Bad: I should have been clearer: When I put the LCD Display back in the original frame, it works fine (Display and touch)
When I put it in your vastly improved Enclosure: Only Display works, not touch.

Oddly when hanging out of the original frame, it works fine (Display and touch)

No Worries, I really think I kinked the cable, and was hoping others saw this. I'll order a new ribbon cable and report back when I get it.

I know this is a month old, but the display isn't a multi-touch display, so if the frame is pushing on the screen on the edge, it'll register a touch on the edge and never anywhere else. Make sure there aren't any protrusions on the inside, and maybe even put some offsets on the mount so the screen stands a little away from the printed part

In regards to the touch issue... The clips that hold the LCD to the board will be in your way. I've attached two pictures. Bend back the 2 clips in the opposite direction, that are closest to the ribbon and battery. Bend them in towards the center of the board, they come facing outwards. This allows you the freedom to shift the board over more and center it better. Assuming you have cleaned any rough edges from the back side of the enclosure, you should no longer have issues with the touch. I had the same problem. Printed it face down and switched filaments in mid-print for multicolor. Used luminescent as the filament for the face :D

how much does it stick out?

What firmware did you put on your printer and what extras does it give or improve?

I used this: https://github.com/Silverquark/i3PlusPlus

Main advantages: More recent version of Marlin (with some issues fixed and some new issues created...), a new user interface, but mainly because it supports long filenames and multiple preheat setpoints, as well as a configuratble temperature when loading/unloading filament.

O that is nice. Thanks.
I think i do that as my next upgrade.

I have since then replaced it with this one. Again a major upgrade!

https://github.com/andrivet/ADVi3pp-Marlin

It may be possible to avoid overhangs by splitting the model into 2 pieces - the "back plate", and the "front panel".
The 2 parts would then clip or screw or glue together.
Would make it a lot easier to print.
If I have success with a split version, I'll let you know.

PS: I like the look of those "Anti-wobble" struts you have on your printer :)

I've printed things like this "face down" before so the front benefits from the quality of a 1st layer onto glass. I can't work out how to rotate this to achieve that and don't think it's an integer number of degrees.

I am using S3D which allows me to select a plane to place that on the build platform (^L from memory)

Dunno what I was doing wrong as a 120 degree rotate worked the 2nd time.

Thanks for Including the design (imports perfectly in Fusion 360) Also, it a nice touch to add the S3D factory file. You are awsome. I can't wait to try this out.

Thanks for the comments! Hope it prints well!