Designed using the measurements from Bill Pentz's Cyclone Calculator spreadsheet (© Copyright 2008 - William F. Pentz.) using the settings recommended for workshop vacuums (as opposed to powerful woodworking chip extractor blowers).
You will need to print or otherwise make adaptors for your hoses and dust receptacle. All bolt holes are for 4mm bolts. Its efficiency is untested but I would expect that this will be sensitive to the quality of printing and assembly, so not really worth me doing it for your benefit. If you are interested in the effectiveness of the design, check Bill Pentz's work out for yourself. http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/air_cleaner.cfm
I used PLA with a heated PEI bed and 210C print temperature but I'm sure you know your printer better than I do.
Orientation: The parts will need rotating when you load them into your slicer software. I have used chamfers and next to no bridging. Remember that the inside surface is the one that is most important. I printed them like this (you'll see a pattern start to develop)
Cone - Bottom Half so that the flange with bolt holes is on the build plate
Cone - Top Half so that the flange with bolt holes is on the built plate
Cylinder - Bottom Half so that the flange with bolt holes is on the build plate
Cylinder - Top Half so that the flange with bolt holes is on the build plate
Cyclone Outlet so that the flange with bolt holes is on the build plate
Cyclone Inlet so that the flange with bolt holes is on the build plate
Air Ramp so that it was flat on the build plate BUT because I used a heated bed I IMMEDIATELY removed it and while it was still warm pulled it into the helix shape that you require. Print the Cyclone Inlet first and use the rectangular opening's long edge to see how far you need to get the air ramp helix edges apart.
Clean the parts up, especially brims and stray extrusion within the inner surfaces of the cylinder, cone, inlet and around the flanges.
If you haven't already, heat the air ramp and mould into a helix by gently pulling the edges apart until they are the same distance apart as the rectangular duct on the inlet. See the Pentz spreadsheet to see what I mean.
Then glue the two halves of the cone together. I used two part epoxy. Do the same for the air ramp, two halves of the cylinder and the cyclone inlet, which will be tricky as there are so many parts. The air ramp sits inside the cyclone and there is a helical ridge round the inside of the cylinder top half that you can use as a gluing guide. It needs to allow the inlet to meet it at its top and bottom edges, so check it all fits together before committing to the glue.
You need to make sure there's a reasonable seal between all the joins you glue.
Make and connect hose adaptors to fit your vacuum and tool hoses. Bolt them on and seal if necessary. You could use anything from a wrap of electrical tape to soft rubber gaskets (although the bolting arrangement is unlikely to generate significant sealing force) or, what I plan to do is run a bead of bathroom silicone sealant around the faces before clamping together.
Bolt the base of your cyclone onto the hole in the top side of your dust receptacle. You may want to support the cyclone somehow, so that any pull from hoses doesn't damage it or its seals. If I've left something out, apologies but I'm sure you'll work out how to get round it.
CAD side view
CAD angle view plus air ramp in flat orientation for printing.
Cone - Top Half
Final assembly. Glue stick for scale.
How the air ramp, cylinder and cyclone inlet fit together.
Cone halves glued together and placed with cylinder and cyclone inlet (not glued)
Cylinder bottom half
How the cylinder halves fit together.