Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!


by ShadowWeaver2067 Jun 18, 2017
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Instructions say “Ensure Threaded rods are Cut to 370mm and 380mm in length”

Does this mean cut one rod to 380 and the other to 370? Why two different lengths?

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I have printed all pieces (except caps) with no issues but when i print the ball my printer ejects the filament about 3% into the print while its printing the brim. on my last attempt the extruder moved to a corner of the bed and started pumping out fillament and formed like a herseys kiss until i aborted print. i have attempted to print these balls about 10 times but only have had success on 3. i always home all motors and also set origin on the extruder before starting the print. i am using the same settings as all other pieces. do you think there is an error in the file that could cause this? my printer is fairly new only has about 1.5 days of use on it so far.

Here's a fun idea. Install both front and rear z braces. Would have any benefit? Is it just a giant waste of filament?

On a more practical note, would this work on an i3 Plus? It doesn't look like it would because the bottom houses the computer and raises the bed. I found that there is a version SWD3 for i3 plus. Thanks!

Anyone have problems getting the top caps on to this? Everything else is install and the caps are just for appearance, but I'd like to get them on since they are already printed.

I am thinking I might have to drill out the screw holes on the cap a bit to make it easier.

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were can i get one of the glass build plate for my wanhoa i3

I don't know why you are asking here, there are a lot of places where you can buy a glass bed for your Wanhao: Where you bought your 3d printer, amazon, ebay, your local glazier (People who work with windows etc), you could use a piece of used mirror or window from old furniture.
If you have further questions about your 3d printer, I advice you to go somewhere else, perhaps the "Duplicator i3" facebook group, or the "Wanhao duplicator i3 owners" group here on thingiverse?

A suggestion for the creator: moving the brand under the feet from underneath to any of the sides would allow for a better resolution for the brand, as well as better adhesion to the printers bed.

Totally understand that, the initial idea was to just have it hidden, but I will get it updated soon and probably make the branding a smaller emblem and at a different location that does not interfere with the print. may even be able to increase the printing speed after the adjustment.
I will definitely look at that in a future update.

Where does the other nylock nut go? details say 4 regular 5/16 and 4 nylock, should it be 6 regular and 2 nylock?

initial configuration was 2 nylocks on the top two caps and two on the bottom caps then two regular as you have to encapsulate the top and bottom pcs with 2 nuts each position for a total of 8 nuts total.

However the configuration can be switched up to having all regular nuts or 4 nylocks and 4 regular or could be 6 regular and 2 nylocks.

I had originally posted what I had used initially.

Since then building several machines I have found that the 6 and 2 you mentioned is the easiest to use to put together. But putting all those variations on there would just serve to confuse people so I left it as is on thingiverse.

Hope that helps.

Can you describe in further detail the 6 regular and 2 nylock setup? Specifically where does the 2 nylocks go for the easiest setup? You do describe the initial configuration quite well but I'm not understanding where the 2 go in the 6/2 setup.

Thanks for the heads up, just finishing up assembly and wanted to say everything fits great, thanks!

I am confused. The thumb screws (x4) have a hex slot, but also a shat that goes through the center. How are these attached?

The hex slot is to fit a nut into and then you use the nut to screw on to the shaft. Hope that helps clear things up.

Sorry, no — i am still confused The solid core is as long as the hollow section. Am I supposed to drill out or cut out the portions that tube in the center? Is that shaft actually just a support added to allow for printing the part without support? I fail to see how I can slide a nut inside the hex area when there’s a tube that runs the full length of the knob down the center. The photos all show it as hollow, but the 3D model and printed knobs run from end to end.

Oh doi, I am sorry I misunderstood which part you were referring to. On that part the "Tube" inside was a support tube it can be REMOVED. It should have printed to where it just snaps out so the threaded rod can pass through it. If you cannot simply snap it off then use a drill to break it free its just support material and if its damaged its going to get thrown away anyway. Initially I was thinking it was another part that is used on the heat bed for the leveling screws I apologize for the misunderstanding.

I was going to ask exactly the same thing. when removing support the cylinder came off. I was thinking about printing it again upside down before I saw this.

glad to know that I don't need to experiment with support settings or orientation for those four "ball"s

Thanks. I just discovered while removing my brim that it did in fact simply pop out. Came out easier than any slicer generated supports. Thanks again. I was asking before removing the brim because I watched the print and it looked pretty solid. And I was going to print everything in small batches before cleaning up any of them. My bad. Had I just cleaned up the part, I wouldnt have had to ask. Printing this withiut support the way I did, and that built in support, this is a very clean print. Great job.

just a quick question, on the front, between the feet, you have those long "orange bars" , are they from another mods?


Yes, those bars are from AZZA's Kit I believe the link is in the side of the Thing Details on this model. They are the front and back center supports from his kit. Since they were his I did not include them in my parts sorry.

Ok, i found it thanks!
Is it a godd mod to have?

Good evening.
Can you measure the angle(or tangent) between the plane and the Threaded Rod please?
Thank you!

I do not see a top mount cap for the right side in the files.

Nevermind I mirrored the part and now it is in the correct orientation

To clarify, in the parts list it's stated you need "2) 5/16 Threaded Rod @ 375mm long".

In the assembly instructions, it says "Ensure Threaded rods are Cut to 370mm and 380mm in length".

I'm guessing the assembly instructions are meant to say that there needs to be two rods, anywhere between 370-380mm each.

Or is it intended to use two different lengths?


The rod lengths need to be between 370 and 380, the 375 is as you can see is "midway" but assembly can allow a variance from +/- 5mm as noted in the between sizes. My fault for not clarifying and thank you for catching this as this note could help others in the future.

I had the same question-- just printed out this kit. Would help to clarify in the main thing notes. Thanks for this note however!

The logo on the bottom of the parts adds a ton of unnecessary complexity, and wasted a lot of filament trying to get a good first layer printed due to the small details not sticking to the platter as well as the larger details.

I only added the logo's to identify it as mine since I modeled them from scratch. I can look at an alternate placement of the logo if needed but I tried to put it in the most discrete place so it was not out there in everyone's face so to speak.
I printed about 30 of these kits so far but I used supports to compensate for the bolt holes and it also took care of the logo as well. While it was time consuming to remove the supports it was worth the effort for a clean logo.
Sorry that it was a complexity for you if you need files without the logo on the bottom send me a message and I will send them via email.
Thanks for your input.

I totally understand, I'm just thinking a simplified version of the logo with fewer small details would be easier to print. I only have a couple more parts to print tonight, I'll let you know if I run into major problems, thank you for the offer!

Do you have a STL with everything on the same plate?

Unfortunately no, I have a sliced profile I used to print on my machine but not sure it would suffice on yours. I did however try to export the .stl from S3D and on my computer for some reason it froze probably not enough memory.

Currently U3DPS "Ultimate 3d Printing Store" has the entire hardware kit for this on their site. The leveler feet are included in the kit.

Thanks for this design. I'm at about 60% complete. Do you have a source for the leveling feet? Did you design it around a specific make model?

I found mine on Ebay search for:

1/4-20 x 1" Elevator Bolt Zinc Plated Full Thread

Just made this over the weekend, here's what I did and some feedbacks.

First of all the rear brace requires the user to snip the zip ties for the wires going to the Z motors. Designer should've mentioned this or design around it.

The tower braces needs too many supports. I got rid of the section that wraps around the frame since I don't think it adds any rigidity. Also I would prefer the guide holes for the threaded rods don't hang over the whole part since it requires support.

Offer a version without the levelers. I ended up using the rear feet from Azza's design since I don't need the levelers and printing the feature will just lengthen the already long print time.

Overall it's a great and original design, only a few tweaks are needed :)

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Thank you, I forgot about the zip ties as they were gone off my machine for over a year and did not realize it needed a work around.

As for the tower braces those could be printed on the top edge and would not require supports except for the threaded rod section.

While it does not visibly seem to support or show rigidity, its design was to be a clamping action when you threaded the bolt through the entire piece.

I have a version that is without levelers for those that need it to bolt to a flat surface. Just have not posted it yet.

Again thank you for your input and I will make a note for future endeavors.
For those that do not like the clamp method I will look at making a singular piece that uses less support.

Which orientation do you need to print the tower brace to print the clamps without support? I didn't want to have to get the support out between the clamps so I edited the clamp out in my CAD program. The clamp is cool but I just didn't think I was able to print it cleanly without support between it. I want that surface to be flat as possible.

Unfortunately this forum will not allow me to post a pic to show you the orientation but turn the part as though you were mounting it upside down to where the top edge is down on your bed and the threaded rod collar is pointing upwards. This will still require supports but only for the Rod collar. It will print the C-Clamp area open and no supports will be needed in the C part of the Piece. It takes a while to print in this orientation as I have printed it several different ways.

The best for me is printing it flat and using supports between the faces. With the proper supports it is really easy to remove them using a pair of needle nose pliers just grab one piece and pull and the rest just zig zag pulls out like a long thread. I have printed over 20 of these kits so far for U3D Printing Store and it was less than two minutes each for me to remove the supports.

Hope that helps and best of luck as I enjoyed creating this in hopes that everyone gets better prints.

Dude, I think this will fit for the monoprice select plus. as the 2 bolts on both sides are the same while the wanhao duplicator plus is in reverse. I mean the frame of z-axis used by wanhao for monoprice is the frame of Wanhao Duplicator i3 that is why this design of yours will fit the monoprice select plus.

The top mounts on this are the same as the Plus Kit. I have a Plus Kit as well just look up SWD3 and the picture is like above but the parts are Cherry Red in color.

Do you know if this mod will work on the next version of this printer? The Monoprice Maker Select Plus?

look up SWD3 Rear Z-Brace Kit its the version I made for the Plus...:)

Will these braces work with Azza's Z extensions? Looks like it is using the same screws for mounting. Maybe need to throw the extensions on the inside of the frame's channel?

The threaded rods may work but not sure what else as my design was initially inspired by AZZA's but not copied so my configuration is not the same as AZZA's. I would imagine the M3 screws from theirs would work as well. I would suggest checking my Part list to see what matches up.

They can't be used together as they share the mounting holes. There is no room for the extension after putting on the top mounts.

Made a combo of the two parts you can use: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990990

Z extension of Z brace
by redxeth

All done and installed. Fantastic!

Cool any issues when you installed it?

Zero issues. Everything fit like a glove. Not one piece required post processing of any type. It's so nice having the front wide open again.Thank you for sharing this awesome design!

Just started printing this. Fantastic idea! I can't wait to get it all finished.

I see in the images you have all the parts ready to go at once. It might be nice to include that file so people can just download that one and print.

I will look into that this evening, I do believe S3D exports .stl which would be all those parts on the bed at once.

I'd also like to see that file. :)

Does this function any different than your other brace? Is this one better for any reason?

Sam the only difference is the braces are moved to the rear which allows access to the front plate easier.
Other than that it still functions the same and has levelers just like the front mounted one.
If you have the front one and don't mind the rods in the front its still perfectly fine and functions the same.

Can we modified it to use 3/8" rod instead to 5/16"? thanks

Shamrage, it could be modified to accept 3/8" rods, it would require a complete rebuild of the kit, and honestly 3/8" is a bit overkill.

As for the current kit the nuts would not fit inside the caps, the nut for the bottom would be to large to fit in the tube that helps keep the nut from spinning.

It took 112hrs of modeling, printing, testing, remodeling, printing and testing for this kit. I currently have 4 other projects going on so it would be a while before I could come back and revisit modifying this kit to 3/8" rods. Sorry.