!!!UPDATED!!! July 8th
So the Tronxy X3 has a horrible Y axis .. I knew that from the beginning when I bought it. But I planed on doing Kencam's Bed Upgrade as soon as I could. I printed up my legs upgrade and corner supports and even did an extruder sink cooler. Then I thought I was ready to do the bed upgrade, and then my printer melted down. After a Ramps 1.4 upgrade and a part cooling upgrade of my own design I created this, my own bed upgrade.
Note again that it is totally inspired by Kencam's bed upgrade!
NOTE & WARNING!! This upgrade involves tearing down a rather critical part of your machine to implement it. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ALL THE PARTS YOU NEED BEFORE YOU START TEARING DOWN YOUR PRINTER. Nothing would suck more to discover that one of the parts you printed was messed up or missing and have to put your printer back together to print a part just to have to tear it down again!!
After installing this I have found:
- My prints to be much better in precision!!
- I hardly have to level my print bed anymore
- Its quieter!
- It's design style is similar to my leg and upper extrusion designs.
Here is a breakdown on each part:
The Bed Support
Obviously the biggest part.. It directly holds the print bed and slides on the liner Shafts using attached bearings. The shaft and the bearing this is designed for are two pieces of 8mm x 400mm Linear Hardened Shaft Sound Rods with four LM8UU Bearings. I bought them on eBay for about 17$ here is the listing. it might not be there when you read this so look them up. Also the belt attaches to the bottom using something I came up with, a set of teeth! Basically you press the belt into the teeth on each side and then zip tie both ends together (see photos). It works quite well and they haven't budged for me after the install. Just remember its going to be a tight fit, use a flat screwdriver to push them in. Also you might have to clean out the teeth depending on how good your print is...
PART UPDATED!! It seems that some were having trouble slicing this part so I made some changes to it that should fix it. (I just simplified the model) Also, I am getting reports that where the bed support attaches to the bed the measurements are off. It seems that there are different versions of beds where the four holes are in different positions. Great... So I have updated the Bed Support Model with measurements for that model. The latest one is 77mm by 42mm that is from center to center in the Y and X axis. Make sure to measure this before you print this rather large part... it would suck to print this then have it be off. Though if that does happen you could simply fix the bed with a drill so it does match the Bed Support. With the stock setup, the position of these holes is rather critical, which is primarily the reason why the Y axis on this machine sucked so bad. Off by just half a millimeter and the bed will wobble, with this upgrade, the positions of those holes is no longer critical.
NOTE: If the mounting holes for your bed are not 77mm c2c on the Y Axis and 42mm c2c on the X axis. Then get me those dimensions and I will whip up a new bed support for those dimentions.
The Belt Tensioner
My own design! And it works and looks rather well! I didn't like the tensioner that Kencam suggested, it felt a bit kludgy to me... and truthfully a bit ugly. My version requires only a single screw to adjust and it works on a concept of pulling rather than twisting that the other did. It consists of a bracket that attaches to the aluminum extrusion and an arm that holds the bearing that the belt is on and hold a nut that is adjusted by a screw that goes through the bracket. I included photos that should make it pretty obvious how it goes together. If it isn't contact me and I will provide more details.
The Y - Stepper Holder
It simply turns the stepper 90 degrees and holds it close to the aluminum extrusion... Its pretty obvious what it is doing.
The Shaft Supports
Again pretty obvious how those work except for the end stop sensor holder. It is designed to hold the stock switch and uses the Bed Support itself as the stop. Not that its a bit further back so you will have to adjust your offsets.
Here are the basic settings I used when printing the parts:
- Layer height: .2mm
- First: .28mm
- Perimeters: 3
- Top / Bottom: 3
- Infill: 15% Rect
Using these speeds:
- Perimeters: 60mm
- Ext Per: 35mm
- Infill: 60mm
- S Infill: 80%
- Travel: 130mm
- First Layer 25mm
Except for the Y - Belt Tensioner Arm, I would beef that one up a bit, Like a 30 - 40 % infill (or even higher if you wish). Also the Y - Belt Tensioner Bracket you could up it a bit also.
Just to make sure you realize you are going to need 3 of the Shaft Supports without the sensor! everything else one part!
- Bed Support 4.5 hours.
- Shaft support with sensor: 40 minutes.
- Shaft support: 30 minutes each so 1.5 hours total.
- Y - Stepper holder: 1.5 hours
- Y - Pully Arm: 30 minutes
- Y - Pully Bracket: 45 minutes
Total: 9 Hours 25 Minutes.
10 of the screws plus cams that screw into the aluminum extrusion. There should be some leftovers when you bought the printer and when you upgraded to my legs and extrusion covers.. You did do this right.... :-) (naaa you don't need to)
1 of the long screws plus nut that came with the printer. It's the ones that were supplied with the printer to bolt together the controller case.
4 - #10 - 24 screws plus some lock nuts. Used this to hold the bearings to the bed support.
- Two pieces of 8mm x 400mm Linear Hardened Shaft Sound Rods with four LM8UU Bearings. I bought them on eBay for about 17$ here is the listing.
Other than the 4 bolts to hold the bearings all the other hardware you should have left over from the printer... I had extra parts when I built it so... you should have some.