Creality CR-10 Dial Indicator Mount for Bed Level/Tramming

by CallJoe, published

Creality CR-10 Dial Indicator Mount for Bed Level/Tramming by CallJoe Jun 30, 2017


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This is a Dial Indicator Mount for the Creality CR-10 (click here: https://goo.gl/FthFpE) that uses economical dial indicators such as this one http://amzn.to/2ttaAGr for less than $15 bucks or a digital version such as this http://amzn.to/2ttaIWr for only $25 bucks. Also you can use a metal 1/4-20 (~6mm) sized nut and bolt combo however I like using nylon nuts/bolts such as these http://amzn.to/2saaeRh just to lighten things a bit. I have designed two Gcode files to be used for running the dial across the Creality CR-10 bed and they can be found here: http://diy3dtech.com/creality-cr10-bed-alignment-gcode/

We also produced a video on the use of this mount and along with the associated gcode here https://youtu.be/LJI34siHOFo as well as we have a more detailed version how to level tramm you 3d printers bed here: https://youtu.be/LJI34siHOFo using a dial indicator.

Upadate 01: Have also added an STL for a smaller version which is shorter for use with dial indicators such as this one (http://amzn.to/2uzu35t) that are shorter.

Update 02: Since making this I also decided to explore the idea of using a digial dial indicator connected to my computer via USB. While this project is still in process, we have made a couple related videos with the first being https://youtu.be/0CXfC6uYoQY the unboxing of the meter and cable then we figure out how to use in this video https://youtu.be/6hweiqlWb2s and you can check them out here: http://diy3dtech.com/usb-dial-indicator-kit/

Update 03. We have created a different version of this bed-leveling tramming device which can be found here that uses https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2524480 which uses a very low cost automotive caliper (see here: http://diy3dtech.com/digital-caliper-depth-gauge/ ) so you have multiple choices.

Also, please follow us on Thingiverse and give this a like if it came in handy and for more information on this project, please visit us at http://www.DIY3DTech.com as well as subscribe to our YouTube Channel at http://YouTube.DIY3DTech.com along with a visit to our one of a kind swag shop for yourself a Maker Geek friend at http://Swag.DIY3DTech.com for unique 3D Printing, Laser Cutting and CNC swag! Too, if you want a behind the scene look at what we are working on be sure to follow us on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/diy3dtech/)!

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So for the you print as it is (open end to the bed) as set supports for "touching bed" only (do NOT use everywhere). Also use high infill percent as use 40% to increase the rigid of the main body which is importance for a solid reading. You can use either PLA or ABS for the build.

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This fits a Pittsburgh analog dial indicator I bought at Harbor Freight a few years ago, but did not fit on the stock print head of the Creality CR-10 I bought in November 2017. The shroud for the cooling fan hangs down a little lower than the rest of it.

Which file for the Triton 1" you liked to?

Is there a code for the same procedure without that watch,
so that the head moves around at 5 different places with bed heating on/off,
where I have 10 sec to level everything with the paper trick?

Question about copying the gcode ( now mind you, I am a total coding noob) what program should you copy the code to so your printer recognizes it? I’m using a windows based pc

Is there such an .gcode file that's intended just to level (20 seconds per point, time enough to adjust the leveling position) the bed without extruding filament? I use Cura and I don't see a way of making a custom gcode without losing the original start code. If there is an .gcode file with the leveling code that exists, can you point me in its direction? ..... For a CR-10 Thanks

Love the way this would work but will not fit on my CR-10S the height is to short. Will try to fix in Fusion 360 if i get time.

Here is a digital meter with an RS232 port for $24 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYCVHLK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for your post and information.

I just assembled the tall mount with the Neoteck digital indicator from Amazon. Needed a washer between the mounting plate on the indicator and the printed mount. Used spare hardware from an eSun filament spool to assemble. Had to clean up the interior edge to mount on to the extruder as well. Seems to work very well. Now to have the right gcode file to level the bed and we'd be all set.

Works a treat, thank you.

Hello, please is this design right for neoteck digital gauge?

Comments deleted.

Any idea why the gcode doesn't come anywhere close the the print nozzle? Its about half inch or more away?

Have you got something for bowden systems?

This model doesn't seem to accommodate for the duct being 3-4mm below the hot end box so be prepared to sand sand sand or scale your print up to offset the inner height of the box about 4mm.

Agreed. Had the same problem here.

Not sure I quite understand however yes, it is designed for the "stock" hotend...

I'm referring to the stock shroud. If you look at this model the bottom right of the box that surrounds the hot end box has a bit of an offset which allows for offset of the part cooling shroud https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2448663

CR-10 Dial Indicator mount

Any chance I could get the source files I need to modify some of the sizes. it does not fit around my head a little to small and the spade where the caliper goes in is way too wide so it flops around.


It might be cheaper to use a voltage data-logger (with USB) and have a sliding resister used for the level detector. That way there will be voltage changes where the bed level changes. It should be possible to have a spring arrangement keep the resistor slider lightly pressed onto the surface.

Just a word of caution, this print does not fit if you do a duct fan mod. You will have to redesign to fit your particular setup.

Thank you pointing this out, it is designed for the stock configuration.

Would love to see a way for this to just be on the z-arm for those who are using v6 etc heat break and blocks. This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQISR7E/

I agree, I am using fan fang and need a model that works with that

Hmm this would be a harder build...

Would be great if you could model a new one for fan fangs