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Creality CR-10 Dial Indicator Mount for Bed Level/Tramming

by CallJoe, published

Creality CR-10 Dial Indicator Mount for Bed Level/Tramming by CallJoe Jun 30, 2017

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Thing Statistics

29480Views 5999Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories

Summary

This is a Dial Indicator Mount for the Creality CR-10 (click here: https://goo.gl/FthFpE) that uses economical dial indicators such as this one http://amzn.to/2ttaAGr for less than $15 bucks or a digital version such as this http://amzn.to/2ttaIWr for only $25 bucks. Also you can use a metal 1/4-20 (~6mm) sized nut and bolt combo however I like using nylon nuts/bolts such as these http://amzn.to/2saaeRh just to lighten things a bit. I have designed two Gcode files to be used for running the dial across the Creality CR-10 bed and they can be found here: http://diy3dtech.com/creality-cr10-bed-alignment-gcode/

We also produced a video on the use of this mount and along with the associated gcode here https://youtu.be/LJI34siHOFo as well as we have a more detailed version how to level tramm you 3d printers bed here: https://youtu.be/LJI34siHOFo using a dial indicator.

Upadate 01: Have also added an STL for a smaller version which is shorter for use with dial indicators such as this one (http://amzn.to/2uzu35t) that are shorter.

Update 02: Since making this I also decided to explore the idea of using a digial dial indicator connected to my computer via USB. While this project is still in process, we have made a couple related videos with the first being https://youtu.be/0CXfC6uYoQY the unboxing of the meter and cable then we figure out how to use in this video https://youtu.be/6hweiqlWb2s and you can check them out here: http://diy3dtech.com/usb-dial-indicator-kit/

Update 03. We have created a different version of this bed-leveling tramming device which can be found here that uses https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2524480 which uses a very low cost automotive caliper (see here: http://diy3dtech.com/digital-caliper-depth-gauge/ ) so you have multiple choices.

Also, please follow us on Thingiverse and give this a like if it came in handy and for more information on this project, please visit us at http://www.DIY3DTech.com as well as subscribe to our YouTube Channel at http://YouTube.DIY3DTech.com along with a visit to our one of a kind swag shop for yourself a Maker Geek friend at http://Swag.DIY3DTech.com for unique 3D Printing, Laser Cutting and CNC swag! Too, if you want a behind the scene look at what we are working on be sure to follow us on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/diy3dtech/)!

Print Settings

Printer:

Any Printer

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.2mm

Infill:

40%


Notes:

So for the you print as it is (open end to the bed) as set supports for "touching bed" only (do NOT use everywhere). Also use high infill percent as use 40% to increase the rigid of the main body which is importance for a solid reading. You can use either PLA or ABS for the build. Also if your looking for a collection of professional 3D print finishing tools take a look here: http://diy3dtech.com/3d-print-clean-up-tools/

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I'm using the digital dial from clockwise, and a slightly different dial holder (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2469518) which I modified by increasing the hole diameter to 10.2mm. (I then have to use some tape around the dial because its a little smaller than 10.2mm in diameter).

I wrote some gcode to do 2 passes through all four corners.

There seems to be some inaccuracy in this process but I'm not sure where it's being introduced.

If I let the dial go through one pass, without making any adjustments, I find that when it returns to the start for a second pass, the reading is not zero'd. It's usually off by .05 - 0.10 mm.

I'm wondering if you've had this issue? I was thinking either (1) the clockwise dial is inconsistent (2) the printer doesn't return to the exact same starting point (even though the gcode says it does) or (3) the dial moves slightly in the mount over the course of the first pass, and thats why it's not zero'd when it starts over for a second pass. I've monitored the process many times now and I'm not leaning strongly towards any of these. The dial seems to be accurate within .02mm when compared to my digital calipers. The printer returns to the same dot where I marked the bed with a pen. And the dial seems like it's pretty secure in the mount, it doesn't really move when I try and wiggle it.

Maybe this will be resolved when I try your mount which allows me to screw the dial in place. The one I'm using (link above) doesn't utilize the screw it just rests snugly in a chamber.

CR-10 DTI holder for bed alignment
by Caster

Hmm i made a modified version of (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2469518) but that also had a screw mount like your design. So now the dial definitely doesn't move in the mount. But I think the issue is that the mount itself has some wiggle capacity on the fan shroud (also the fan shroud can wiggle on its mount to the gantry). And so it will move slightly over the course of a pass after mounting it.

I found when I did multiple passes in a row, without touching anything, that the z-axis disturbance just gets introduced during the first pass and it's pretty consistent after that.

So my solution is to do 1 pass where I don't touch any of the nobs. Then re-zero things. And then modify the nobs during the later passes.

CR-10 DTI holder for bed alignment
by Caster

i saw someone asked this earlier but i am too noob to follow the instructions, is there any videos on how to get the gcode for leveling to play on the printer?

Comments deleted.

This mount will not work with the CR-10S. I just printed one and the 10S has a different side fan configuration. Probable works fine for the 10.

Yes I created this with the stock CR-10 as a model, however it could likely be remixed to fit the "S"...

This fits a Pittsburgh analog dial indicator I bought at Harbor Freight a few years ago, but did not fit on the stock print head of the Creality CR-10 I bought in November 2017. The shroud for the cooling fan hangs down a little lower than the rest of it.

Wish I had read your comments before printing. Found too that the side fan deflector prevents me from mounting the one that fits HF dial indicator. Not sure how you resolved your unit. Would be nice if the right hand side of the frame had a drop down section near the corner. 10 mm long with a 4 mm drop would clear the fan duct nicely. The cavity for the nut is a little undersized for a 1/4" nut but if I had followed his link to the nylon fasteners I see they are metric. Will get a metric to see if it fits or sand the side of the nut. Not sure how to handle the fan duct as it cannot be removed and the machine screw holding it is part of the clearance problem. No file I can modify in Fusion 360 and hate to print again if I could modify.

Which file for the Triton 1" you liked to?

Is there a code for the same procedure without that watch,
so that the head moves around at 5 different places with bed heating on/off,
where I have 10 sec to level everything with the paper trick?

Question about copying the gcode ( now mind you, I am a total coding noob) what program should you copy the code to so your printer recognizes it? I’m using a windows based pc

You need to import into a slicer to slice and then send that G-Code to your printer...

Is there such an .gcode file that's intended just to level (20 seconds per point, time enough to adjust the leveling position) the bed without extruding filament? I use Cura and I don't see a way of making a custom gcode without losing the original start code. If there is an .gcode file with the leveling code that exists, can you point me in its direction? ..... For a CR-10 Thanks

Love the way this would work but will not fit on my CR-10S the height is to short. Will try to fix in Fusion 360 if i get time.

Here is a digital meter with an RS232 port for $24 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYCVHLK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for your post and information.

I just assembled the tall mount with the Neoteck digital indicator from Amazon. Needed a washer between the mounting plate on the indicator and the printed mount. Used spare hardware from an eSun filament spool to assemble. Had to clean up the interior edge to mount on to the extruder as well. Seems to work very well. Now to have the right gcode file to level the bed and we'd be all set.

Works a treat, thank you.

Hello, please is this design right for neoteck digital gauge?

Comments deleted.

Any idea why the gcode doesn't come anywhere close the the print nozzle? Its about half inch or more away?

Have you got something for bowden systems?

This model doesn't seem to accommodate for the duct being 3-4mm below the hot end box so be prepared to sand sand sand or scale your print up to offset the inner height of the box about 4mm.

Agreed. Had the same problem here.

Not sure I quite understand however yes, it is designed for the "stock" hotend...

I'm referring to the stock shroud. If you look at this model the bottom right of the box that surrounds the hot end box has a bit of an offset which allows for offset of the part cooling shroud https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2448663

CR-10 Dial Indicator mount

I have the same problem with the mount hitting the stock fan duct. The digital you show I wish I could add the drop down section on the right hand side by the duct. Fusion 360 is what I am using but no way to modify his part as I see it. I have not found a simple duct mod to make the unit fit. Darn!

Any chance I could get the source files I need to modify some of the sizes. it does not fit around my head a little to small and the spade where the caliper goes in is way too wide so it flops around.

THANX
MITCH

It might be cheaper to use a voltage data-logger (with USB) and have a sliding resister used for the level detector. That way there will be voltage changes where the bed level changes. It should be possible to have a spring arrangement keep the resistor slider lightly pressed onto the surface.

Just a word of caution, this print does not fit if you do a duct fan mod. You will have to redesign to fit your particular setup.

Thank you pointing this out, it is designed for the stock configuration.

Would love to see a way for this to just be on the z-arm for those who are using v6 etc heat break and blocks. This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQISR7E/

I agree, I am using fan fang and need a model that works with that

Hmm this would be a harder build...

Would be great if you could model a new one for fan fangs

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