RC Tank

by Staind, published

RC Tank by Staind Jul 2, 2017


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At first:

Unfortunately my English isn´t good, but I would like to write the description in German and English. Please write a message if you see a translation error.


I have seen this speed tank (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2024364) and was inspired by the concept.
But I wanted to change some things, so I decided to build my own tank. This tank is not compatible with the above speed tank. It has been completely redesigned.

The following parts have changed since the publication:
(You can recognize it at the version number V_X_X)


-new added esc_holder_universal_V1


A small video:


ich habe bei Thingiverse diesen Speed Tank (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2024364) gesehen und war von dem Konzept begeistert.
Ich wollte aber einige Dinge ändern und so entschied ich mich, einen eigenen Tank zu bauen. Dieser Tank ist mit dem oben genannten Speed Tank nicht kompatibel, da er von Grund auf neu konstruiert wurde.

Ich möchte die Beschreibung gerne auf Deutsch und Englisch erstellen.
Leider ist mein Englisch alles andere als perfekt. Sollten im Text Fehler sein würde ich mich um eine kleine Nachricht freuen.

Folgende Teile haben sich seit der Veröffentlichung geändert:
(Auch erkennbar an den Versionsstand V_X_X)


-neu hinzugefügt esc_holder_universal_V1


Documentation / Dokumentation

General information

Printing time: approx. 100 hours
Needed filament: about 1.5kg
Printing board: at least 200mm x 200mm
Costs: approx. 150 Euro incl. filament, excl. receiver, remote control and battery. See below for an overview of costs.

Allgemeine Informationen

Druckzeit: ca. 100 Stunden
Benötigtes Filament: ca. 1,5kg
Druckbrett: mindestens 200mm x 200mm
Kosten: ca. 150 Euro inkl. Filament, exkl. Empfänger, Fernsteuerung und Akku. Eine Preisübersicht findet ihr weiter unten.

Print setting

I printed all parts with the following settings.
Material: PLA / PETG
Diameter of the nozzle: 0.4 mm
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Printing speed: 60-80mm / s
Contour: 3
Top layers: 3
Bottom layers: 3
Infill: 30%
Support: no


Alle Teile wurden mit folgenden Druckeinstellungen gedruckt
Material: PLA / PETG
Düsendurchmesser: 0,4mm
Schichthöhe: 0.2mm
Druckgeschwindigkeit: 60-80mm/s
Kontur: 3
Geschlossene Deckschichten: 3
Geschlossene Bodenschichten: 3
Infill: 30 %
Support: nein

Print overview

Following parts must print multiple times:

2 x drive_gear_brushless_14_V1
2 x gear_36_18_V1
2 x track_drive_wheel_54_V1
8 x track_wheel_V1
2 x track_wheel_tension_V1
96 x track_V1
2 x logo_V1

In this list everything is summarize. You can also find information about material, printing time and print quantity.


Folgende Teile müssen mehrmals gedruckt werden:

2 x drive_gear_brushless_14_V1
2 x gear_36_18_V1
2 x track_drive_wheel_54_V1
8 x track_wheel_V1
2 x track_wheel_tension_V1
96 x track_V1
2 x logo_V1

In folgender Liste ist alles nochmal zusammengefasst. Zudem findet ihr auch Informationen zum Material,zur Druckzeit und Druckmenge.

alt text

click to zoom image

Ordering overview

following accessories are required:

4 x M3 nut
98 x M3 lock nut
8 x M3 screw, length 5mm
4 x M3 screw, length 20mm
96 x M3 screw, length 45mm
46 x M4 nut
14 x M4 lock nut
18 x M4 screw, length 10mm
22 x M4 screw, length 20mm
2 x M4 screw, length 35mm
2 x M4 screw, length 40mm
12 x M4 screw, length 50mm
4 x M5 lock nut
4 x bearing 604
24 x bearing 608
2 x Sunnysky X2212 980KV Brushless motor
2 x 20A Emax Simonk Brushless ESC

In this list everything is summarize. You can also find information about costs and where to buy.


Zu den gedruckten Teilen wird folgendes Zubehör benötigt:

4 x M3 Mutter
98 x M3 Stoppmutter
8 x M3 Schraube, Länge 5mm
4 x M3 Schraube, Länge 20mm
96 x M3 Schraube, Länge 45mm
46 x M4 Mutter
14 x M4 Stoppmutter
18 x M4 Schraube, Länge 10mm
22 x M4 Schraube, Länge 20mm
2 x M4 Schraube, Länge 35mm
2 x M4 Schraube, Länge 40mm
12 x M4 Schraube, Länge 50mm
4 x M5 Stoppmutter
4 x Kugellager 604
24 x Kugellager 608
2 x Sunnysky X2212 980KV Brushless Motor
2 x 20A Emax Simonk Brushless ESC Regler

In folgender Liste ist alles nochmal zusammengefasst. Zudem findet ihr auch Informationen zum Preis.


click to zoom image

Screw list

In this list you find information which part need which screws and nuts.


Folgend eine Übersicht, aus der ersichtlich ist, welche Schrauben für welche gedruckten Teile benötigt werden. Eine bessere Beschreibung inkl. Bilder folgt in den nächsten Tagen.


click to zoom image

Different types of motors

At the moment you can use 3 different types of motors:

1) (tested) Sunnysky X2212 980KV Brushless Motor (printed gear)

2) (not tested) Brushless Motor with 3,175mm shaft and a max diameter of 28,5mm (960-1000KV)
You need a metal gear module 1 with 14 teeth. (Like this one https://www.voelkner.de/products/115422/Stahl-Zahnrad-14-Z-Modul-1-B3-2.html)

3) (not tested) Brushed or Brushless 540 Motor.
You need a metal gear module 1 with 10-14 teeth. (Like this one https://www.voelkner.de/products/115406/Stahl-Zahnrad-12-Z-Modul-1-B3-2.html)

When you will use the 3rd version you needn´t following things:

But you need 2 x 540_motor_bracket_V1.

Verschiedene Motortypen

Momentan kann man 3 verschiedene Motortypen verwenden:

1) (getestet) Sunnysky X2212 980KV Brushless Motor (gedrucktes Zahnrad)

2) (nicht getestet) Brushless Motor mit einem 3,175mm Schaft und einem maximalen Durchmesser von 28.5mm (960-1000KV).
Dazu brauch man ein Modul 1 Metal Zahnrad mit 14 Zähnen.

3) (nicht getestet) Brushed or Brushless 540 Motor.
Dazu brauch man ein Modul 1 Metal Zahnrad mit 10-14 Zähnen.(https://www.voelkner.de/products/115406/Stahl-Zahnrad-12-Z-Modul-1-B3-2.html)

Wenn du die 3te Version verwendest brauchst du folgende Teile nicht drucken:

Dafür brauchst du aber 2 x 540_motor_bracket_V1.


click to zoom image

Post Processing / Nachbearbeitung

Assembly Instruction / Montageanleitung

Schematic Diagram / Schaltplan


click to zoom image


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Hello, this is really nice work. I have already built one control by arduino nano and potentiometer . But, I think the "motor_bracket_brushless_V1" is a little weak. It's easy to break at the joint, like my upload file. I think it should divide into two parts. Can you send me a file that I can edit by myself. Because the ".stl" is hard to edit. Thank you!!

I have printed a great design and everything works bravo

you need to make it have a turret or make a new one that has all the pieces and PDF guide to put it together and wiring guide / parts list so you can build a WWI / WWII or a modern day tank.

Hi and Thx for your great project. And sorry for my bad english.
Yes i made one of your fantastic rc tanks.But i have one question about your motor setup.
I use brushless motors with 1000 kv but the motors dont run smooth at the start. they ar shaking and without power on 20 Amp BLheli esc´s with bidirectional motor direction.

pls can u give me some tips

Danke für das tolle projekt . Ich musste mir einen RC-Tank bauen.
Ich habe aber ne frage zum Motor setup in der Brushless version. Ich nutze 1000KV Brushless Motoren an 20 Amp BlHeli esc´s mit Bidirection Motordrehrichtung ( 3D Modus ). Aber die Motoren laufen nur sehr ruckelig an .
Kannst Du mir Bitte tips dazu geben .

Hi All,

I've made this project and finally had all the electronics. My only problem is that it's not binding.
I've got a spare Spektrum DX3S controller from my brother but it don't bind. Do i need another
controller or am i missing some steps?
P.S. this is all very new for me.

i printed out all parts, and am waiting for the electronics right now...
really nice project!!

it would be nice to have some different gear ratios. for example one with more torgue, so you dont have to change out the motor to one with a lower KV....

does this make sense?

hi bro, i love your proyect, i want make the same, you have the links for the motors,drivers, battery and control? or the names?

Hi jivi11,

It's all there @ Thing details, just scroll down. ;-)

I started to build this awesome Tank and while waiting for the printer I started to play around with the electronics.
I want to use the parts that I have left over from my previous Drone Project which are a Flysky FS-i6 Radio with a 6 Channel Receiver and a 4-in-1 ESC from Hobbywing.
I connected everything and basically it is working, the only thing I cannot get to work is the Channel Mixing.
I connected Channel 1 to Motor 1 Input on ESC and Channel 2 to Motor 2 input. I played with Mixes, V-Tail Settings and Elevon Settings but didnt got it to work. At the moment Both Motors run un full speed when I put both Sticks to the upper right Corner and they Stop when both sticks are down.

Can anybody explain again please how to setup the Channel Mixing properly?

Many thanks in Advance.


Thanks for the Link. THe first one I knew already and tried it but didn´t work.
I think my problems are related to the 4-in-1 ESC. Thats why I ordered the recommended Simon Series ESCs now to see if that works.

I found out my Receiver was broken so I replaced it and I can controllboth motors now as expected. For the setup I found this Video very helpful:


Now I just have to find out how to setup the ESCs to run bidirectional. If anybody has a hint I would appreaciate it.

I have te same problem. I cant find nohing on the web.my transmitter is a flysky 4gtc

In case anyone was wondering Titan 550 motors are just slightly to small, I am going to extend the chassis and bumper some to see if that works.

bonjour a tous
pourriez vous me donner les reglage sous cura en francais ou anglais
je ne comprends pas ce que veut dire"contour" en anglais
merci de votre aide


  1. Shell Thickness
    Shells refers to the number of times the outer walls of the design are traced by the 3D printer before starting the hollow inner sections of your design.

Do you plan suspension for it?

do not use a any motor over 1000 kv it will burn out fast the kv is the rpm of the motor for every volt you put in to it so 100kv at 3 volts would be 300rpm in perfect conditions the higher the kv the Les torque it will have meaning it will not be able to move the tank thats why a 980kv was used most 980 kv motors should be about the same size so use a 980kv one

Thanks for the reply.
So i should use a not-so-cheap 980kv brushless motor. Got it.
What about the ESC and the battery? What voltage and type?

30a esc should be plenty and a 3s lipo (11.1v) 2200mah- 4000mah should be fine you will need a lipo balance charger to charge them if you dont have one

i would also recommend not cheaping out on the motors on this as cheaper motors will get hotter and not last as long

Add a PDF tutorial how to put it together and where all the wires go and etc.

There is a video on youtube...

Salve o bisogno di un aiuto vorei mettere la sonda di livelamento sulla scheda Trigorilla ma non so dove collegarla ptresti aiutarmi.

Will the back cover ever be finished?

After a longer pause, work is now continuing on the cover.
It's almost ready. I think next week I'll upload it.
Greeting André


Yes... can't wait.. ;-)

Hurra! :-D

Anyone have a link to the ESC they used, i made this a long time ago but it just tends to rip itself apart and thinking it's the ESC's as they go from nothing to full throttle, also they have no reverse. I've calibrated them but still not helped much. Also any recommendations on receiver/transmitter as wondering if that isn't helping.

You could try flashing the ESCs with BLHeli firmware, (if supported). BLHeliSuite is the Windows software that allows flashing and configuring ESC settings. BLHeli firmware in the MULTI version supports forward and reverse direction. As regards choosing an adequate transmitter/receiver, any would do the job, if the transmitter supports a way of channel mixing.

Thanks for the reply i think i need socket flashing tool like https://hobbyking.com/en_us/atmel-atmega-socket-firmware-flashing-tool.html which costs a lot more than the actual ESC's as they were cheap ones from ebay. I've bought some replacement ones from hobby king so shall see how they work. Re the transmitter both of the ones i have don't support channel mixing so shall have to look about. Already in a fortune on this so far lol.

If you already have some transmitters lacking mixing features you may try an external mixer like V-Tail Mixers, they are inexpensive. I hope you get your tank running; it’s really fun driving that overpowered little monster.

Lo sto realizzando manca qualche particolare la chiusura del dietro.
Stupendo ben fatto.

Fantastic presentation. I love it and intend to build it. The German/English documentation is great. I am trying to learn German. This helps.

I wonder if it isn't possible to print the tracks in one piece, interlocked at print time, with some strong filament type.

Well, some people use bits of 3mm filament as bolts instead of 3 mm screws to fasten the track links together. I guess printing the links interlocked makes cleaning up after printing a bit of a hassle.

Will this motor work? I have a hard time finding the right one for your 3rd setup (without gears).


I have a doubt when looking at the voltage specs, but it's all pretty confusing since on other sites they only talk about the amount of supported cells. Unless the voltage spec is the minimum required voltage?

If not is there a motor you can suggest on conrad.de ? Thanks!

I suppose I can use this as ESC?

Thanks for your help! Great project BTW.

Hallo! Da du Conrad.de benutzt, nehme ich einfach mal an, dass du Deutsch sprichst. ;-)

Der Motor von Conrad hat eine Betriebsspannung von nur 7,4 V und ist damit für einen 2S Lipo gedacht. Ich persönlich würde ihn nicht an 3S betreiben. (3 Zellen je 3,7 V = 11,1 V bzw. 12,6 V bei vollem Akku mit je 4,2 V pro Zelle)

Weiterhin hat der Motor ein Lochbild, was nicht dem 540er-Motorhalter von André (Staind) entspricht. Du würdest also nur 2 Schrauben verwenden können bzw. müsstest den Motorhalter anpassen.
Im Originalsetup wird ein Motor mit 980 kV an 3S benutzt. Leerlaufdrehzahl sind 980 Umdrehungen pro Volt x 11,1 Volt = 10878 Umdrehungen. Die beiden Getriebestufen 14 Zähne am Motor zu 36 Zähnen am Doppelzahnrad und dann nochmal 18 Zähne am Doppelzahnrad auf 54 Zähne am Kettentreibrad lassen von den 10878 Umdrehungen am Motor noch 1364 Umdrehungen pro Minute übrig. Das Kettentreibrad dreht sich also theoretisch 1364 Mal pro Minute. Ein 540er Motor der direkt mit seinem Ritzel auf das Kettentreibrad geht, muss also eine entsprechend geringere Drehzahl haben. Kettentreibrad 54 Zähne, Motorritzel 14 Zähne 54/14= 3,86 auf den Motor bezogen. 5265 Umdrehungen pro Minute müsste der 540er Motor machen, damit bei einem 14er Ritzel das Kettentreibrad auch wieder 1364 Umdrehungen pro Minute macht. Da aber bürstenlose Motoren und Motoren mit Bürste ein sehr unterschiedliches Drehzahl/Drehmomentverhalten haben, würde ich persönlich einen Bürstenmotor mit einer etwas höheren Leerlaufdrehzahl nehmen. 6000-8000 ist wohl nicht übel. Der von dir ausgesuchte Motor liegt also ganz gut, würde ich sagen. Zur Not kannst du ja immer noch mit dem Motorritzel spielen.

Der Fahrtregler, den du verlinkt hast, ist aber für bürstenlose Motoren, nicht für Motoren mit Bürsten. Er passt also nicht zu dem von dir verlinkten Motor. Er würde aber zu dem Original Motor von SunnySky passen.

Viele Grüße

It seems that most motors I find are 7.2V (on different websites). It's hard to search on voltage. I might be better of just getting a 2 cell LiPo battery.

Well, eh :) I am from Belgium and I linked to conrad.de since I order everything on conrad.be but it all comes from Germany, which would make it easier for you to read.
Time to fire up google translate, because I understand a little German, but not all those technical terms :)

Oh dear, sorry :-) Then I'll try to answer in English.

You want a 540 size brushed motor with a no load speed of about 6000 - 8000 turns per minute. The original brushless motor with the two gear stages made the track drive wheel turn at a rate of about 1364 turns per minute. If you use a 14 teeth sprocket on the motor axle which drives the 54 teeth track drive wheel, you need a motor speed of about 5265 turns per minute, to have the track drive wheel going as fast as with the original brushless setup with the two gear stages. But brushed and brushless motors have a different behaviour under load, so I guess with 6000 - 8000 turns for the brushed motor, you should have a similar driving experience to the brushless setup.

The ESC you posted, is for brushless motors, it is not suited for the brushed motor that you posted. Perhaps you want to have a look at this ESC:


It is a double ESC for brushed motors, used for boats with twin engines or for tank models, like in our case.

I hope this helps a little. If you have further questions, I'll try to answer them.

So I can use this motor then? It seems to do 5500rpm at 7.2V and it supports up to 30V, so I could even hook up a 3 cell LiPo if I want it to go faster.


Technical info : http://store.rc4wd.com/540-Crawler-Brushed-Motor-80T_p_825.html

The ESC you posted controls both motors? Maybe the picture is wrong because I only see a few cables to go to the receiver?

The motor seems fine, under load it does 4450 RPM, which is a bit slower than the original setup. (Max Efficiency) RPM @ 7.2V : 4450 (10%), 1.38Amp Current )

And you are completely right about the ESC. I had a look into the manual and it seems it only drives both motors the exact same way. So you can't do any steering with that. Besides, there is only one receiver cable on it, so it has no way of knowing where you want to steer. So it is of no use in our case, even though they write it is for tanks...

I am using one of these in my tank:


Sadly, they are quite expensive...

I could get 2 of these?


Would I also need to hook up 2 batteries? I don't see in your build what connector to use to split the battery over 2 ESCs.

Yes, 2 of these ESC should work. You can just hook the power input cables from both ESCs in parallel, there is no need for 2 batteries I would say. For my old dual brushless setup, I simply soldered all 4 (2x + 2x -) ESC supply cables onto on XT60 connector.
The motors you choose draw 1,38 A at best efficiency, so I guess one should not draw more than 10 A even when it is not run at the most efficient torque and RPM. Do you have a multimeter or something similar to measure the current of a motor under load?

Yeah I have a multimeter. So I would just snap off the connectors of the ESCs and solder them together to one connector then. Should be doable.

Thanks :)

I forgot to mention that you have to disconnect the red (+) line on the receiver cable of one of the ESCs. Because both ESC have a build in BEC to supply power to the receiver and servos if you have any. If you have both BEC outputs connected, you basically have the outputs of both BEC voltage regulators in parallel, which might damage the circuits.
So one ESC has all the cables connected (+ / - / signal), the other ESC only gets two cables (- / signal) connected to the receiver.

Good to know. I saw the receiver has a separate power input, so I won't need to connect anything to that?

No, you don't need the separate power input when using an ESC with BEC. On the receiver all - pins and all + pins are in parallel. So when you connect a single ESC with BEC, the receiver and servos have - and +5V (or +6V depending on the BEC) to work properly.
The separate power input is needed for setups where you connect only servos to the receiver. For example in a nitro car. You have one servo for throttle and one for steering, but there is no ESC which could power the receiver, so you plug a small battery-pack into the power input of the receiver.

Awesome! Then enjoy building! :-)

Hello great design, I just finished printing and assembling the tank. It works great but the tracks are quite weak. They are breaking a lot. Do you have a tip how to make them stronger or prevent breaking the tracks all the time? I have the tracks mounted the center in the front with the sides on the back. The breakage happens all the time at the front center part of the track.
I have the same brushless motor as described in your description. Any help would be appreciated.

Could you perhaps post a picture?

Thank you for sharing this awesome design with the thingiverse community.

I will be building one in the next couple of months.

I intend to use it as a robot chassis, so if you have any chassis mods for sensors, etc., could you please post them?

Thanks again for an awesome design!

Just a remark from my side, as I wanted to use this tank as a robot platform myself. You might find the driving and accelerating characteristics of the tank somewhat problematic, when it comes to slow and precise driving. With the brushless motors, the tank has very little power when starting. So you can't climb over obstacles without giving a fair amount of throttle. The tank becomes powerful and goes uphill very well, but only at a higher speed. Crawling uphill or pulling itself over/on top of some obstacle does not work at low speed. Starting the tank when it is already standing on a slope or with some obstacle directly against the front track does not work at all. The motors just vibrate and buzz about in place, but they cannot turn. Its basically a race car.

That is why I am in the middle of doing tests with geared brushed motors. It is far slower, but you have plenty of power right from the start and at low speed. I am using a 14 teeth sprocket to drive the 55 teeth track drive wheel. With a 980 rpm geared motor I have decent indoor cruising speed and sufficient torque to turn on the spot even with high friction rubber tracks.

Hi Oger!

Thank you for your input!
I was looking at geared motors as well, but an initial search for motors of a similar length to a brushed 540 style with a revolution sensor built in and 540 mounting pattern bore no fruit.

Modifying the 540 mounting holes for a geared motor is easily done, but the shaft on the geared motors I looked at are all offset.

Would you be able to post a link to the motor you are using, please?

Right now I am using these:


The speed is decent and torque looks alright for the tank itself to climb up slopes. But I want something bigger with larger reserves for actually employing a snow plough for example. I think something with 600 rpm and a 18 teeth sprocket should work better. I just got a delivery of these:


They have only 300 rpm but they were available directly from Germany, so I got them, to tinker around before ordering from China with higher rpm. Right now I'm drawing an adapter plate to fit them into the tank and a suitable sprocket for the motors axle.

Ich muss sagen du hast mein Design sehr gut weiterentwickelt! Alleine die Wahl der Regler und Motoren - darauf wäre ich nicht gekommen ;-)

Danke auch das du mich erwähnt hast.

I'm 50hours invested into the print so far.. amazing design - it's been a pleasure to print it. I will be printing the tracks soon. As anyone tried it in TPU?

Hi as you can see i am nearly there building this great design. I made some custom brackets for the esc (using car esc's). Is there any change you are willing to relase the chassis_v2 as a editable file (not STL) i am planning on adding some lights/ ping sensor to be controlled by a arduino.

Ill release my file's as "remix" under the same conditions as yourse hope you can help me out.

Hallo gibt es was neues wegen einen Deckel denn der Wunder kommt und wollte gerne draußen fahren mfg

Hi, ist es möglich das du die Orginal Dateien eventuell auch zu verfügung stellst? Wenn nicht, kann ich das aber auch verstehen.

I printed everything successfuly and the tank seems to work fine! Thanks for the great product.
however, I've some problems calibrating the esc's. One motor starts really late (30% throttle, the other wont stop spinning immediatly).

I used following procedure:

  1. Throttle stick up
  2. Plug power in
  3. Throttle stick down

The motors make an awful lot of different beeps, the esc itselfs wont make any noise. so nothing like in the documentation.
I tried with motors attached and without.

What did you do to calibrate them?

I use your recommended setup (EMAX Simon Series 20A and the SUNNYSKY motors) but the receiver is a FrSky X4R-SB.

I searched the whole web but couldn't find a solution to the problem. Do I realy need to reflash the ESC's?

Thanks & cheers

The motors are supposed to make the beep sounds. The ESC's actually do not have anything on them to produce sound. So the ESC's power the motor winding in a way that sounds like a beep.

I would recommend to calibrate one ESC at a time, using the channel on the receiver, that is controlled by the throttle stick on your transmitter. This stick usually has no self entering spring installed, so the stick stays in the exact same position you put it in.

First you should check that the subtrims on this channel are on neutral. So pushing the stick fully up, gives +100% and pulling the stick all the way down, gives -100%.

Then you connect the ESC to the motor and plug in the ESC into the receiver throttle channel.

Switch on the transmitter and move the stick fully up. Now you connect the Lipo to the ESC and you should hear two beeps from the motor.

Within 2 seconds you move the stick all the way down and you should hear a long beeeep.

After this you hear the same number of beeps as you have Lipo cells connected. So with 3S you hear 3 beeps. After this, a little beep melody is to be heard and you are ready to go.

Another thing is, one of your ESC's might be stuck in bidirectional mode. This means Stick +100% is motor 100% clockwise, stick middle is motor standing still and stick -100% is motor 100% counter clockwise. This mode can be changed in option 8. All the manuals I see online, only cover the options up to number 7. The paper copy of the manual that came with my "30 A EMAX Simon Series" ESC has this 8th option for Rotation direction.

Hope this helps. If you need the manual, just send me a message.

That's exactly what I did in the first place, however, I did it with both motors and ESCs attached to channel 1 and 2. then, on the transmitter, I configured throttle to send on channel 1 and 2 at the same time.
I tried to do it exactly as you have written, same problem again: there are too many sound comming from the motor, but non of them is as you have written.
could it be that my frsky x4r-sb is giving the wrong protocol to the ESCs (PPM, PWM, CPPM,...)?

Hmmm, that's strange. Do you have a normal standard servo at hand? If the servo goes from -90° to 90° when attached to your throttle channel, I would think that the signal from your receiver is alright.

more analysis has shown that the receiver indeed produces PWM signals. I can confirm that channel 1 produces a PWM signal from -124% (999us) -> 118% (2016us) (tested with ISDT BG-8S).

One ESC somehow keeps powering the motor for a few seconds after I turn down the throttle. the other behaves correct. switching channels on the receiver doesn't change anything, so I guess its ESC related. Also trimming the transmitter didn't yield anything :(

what could i try else?

Nice data gathering! Good to know your receiver signal is, what it is supposed to be. So you were able to calibrate ESC 1 correctly and now it functions properly? Were you able to calibrate ESC 2 as well?

With "keeps powering the motor for a few seconds after I turn down the throttle" you meant that the motor keeps running for a bit after you pulled the throttle stick to zero? Does it stop completely then and only starts again when you apply throttle again?

You could try swapping motors. ESC 1 with motor 2 and ESC 2 with motor 1. Perhaps it is the motor that is somehow acting up. Although it is a long shot... To be honest, I am running out of ideas. Perhaps you simply have one faulty ESC.

I had a much milder version of the same problem, one ESC would begin turning at a slightly higher throttle than the other once I had my mixes programmed for tank steering. I compensated by dding a small amount of offset in the first mix, like 9% or something like that. That took care of it.
Also, if your ESCs support bidirectional mode, you could use a v-tail mixer (a hardware mixer, very easy to use, just plug in!) and a pistol-type car transmitter, which personally I would find much more accurate to drive with. Might be a blessing in disguise ;-)
My ESCs I am pretty certain don't support bidirectional. They are 2 spares I had left over from an F550 drone build.

Wanted to post my appreciation for this design. I've just finished assembling mine last night. I used most of the available remix mod parts, i've got the super bright bike light on the front, the grippier tracks, and the wheels with spiffy colored inserts. Color scheme is purple, grey, and black. Motor brackets are red just because that was the color of PETG I had on hand.
Only gotten to give it a quick test drive in my living room, but it looks like it will be an exciting and fun vehicle. I like the use of the outrunner type motors and standard air ESCs. The printed gearboxes, track geometry, chassis assembly, In general the whole design shows thoughtful and precise engineering with attention to the strengths and limitations of 3d printed parts. Hope to take some pictures soon and can then post a "make" with more description.
SO yeh, thanks for the design, and especially for sharing it!

Hey, can I get the source files in .sldprt thanks?

Hi the build volume is this 225 x 145 x 150 m would it work if I shrunk the scale

the bottom plate is the biggest and it is 194 mm at its longest point. you should be fine.

Most parts should fit easily on your printer. I suggest to check the bottom plate and the two inner side plates. they are the largest parts to print. Just download the files and load them into your Slicer software. There you will see, whether they fit into your build volume or not.

Shrinking will mess up all the holes for nuts and screws and the hardware. Everything from ball bearings to motors will not fit anymore. So you would have to find a completely new set of hardware. I don't think this is what you are looking for...

Hi I have the flash forge creator pro 2016 will your print fit in this printer if not how can I make it fit

What is the size of the print area of your printer?
These files are suited for a print bed of 200 mm x 200 mm.

Hi, can you post original files, for editing, in solidworks?, thanks

Is there a purpose for the 4 nuts in the little pockets at the bottom of part "Chassis_2_V1"? In the regular assembly video it says "optional" and as far as I can tell nothing currently attaches to them. Is this a mounting point for some future add-on parts?

Yes, André planned to use them for future upgrades. I just put 4 screws into the nuts, to keep them from rattling about.

ich hab soweit alles fertig, sieht auch super aus... mein Problem jetzt, mit der Steuerung bekomme ich das überhaupt nicht gebacken(bin noch recht neu beim Modellbau) :-)

ich habe eine FlySky FS-i6s, und einen 6 Kanal Empfänger.
Motoren laufen auch, ich will einfach linker stick Linke Kette und rechter stick Rechte Kette, Mittelstellung soll Motoren aus sein... ich bekomme es einfach nicht hin... einmal ist die Linke kette Mittelstellung Motoren aus... dann läuft aber die rechte kette in der Mitte schon... ich komme nicht weiter....
hat hier jemand evtl Erfahrung mit der Fs-i6S..


Hallo Merlin,

ich versuche mal zu helfen.
Welche Regler benutzt du? Hast du den Gasweg der Regler schon angelernt? Den richtigen Kanal am Empfänger, welcher jeweils am linken und rechten Stick liegt, hast du sicher schon gefunden.


Hallo Oger,

Danke schonmal...

ich benutze diese Regler..(Bild), Motoren habe benutze ich SunnySky 2212 KV980.
sooo wie lerne ich den Gasweg den an... ich hab da schon alles versucht...:-)..

gruß jürgen

Steht dazu nichts in der Bedienungsanleitung der Regler?
So in der Richtung "Auf Vollgas stellen, Regler anschalten, Beeep abwarten, dann Knüppel in Neutralstellung zwei Beep abwarten etc..."

In deiner Fernsteuerung kannst du die Endpositionen der Kanäle anpassen. Der Menüpunkt müsste Endstops heißen. Unter Reverse kann die Richtung der Kanäle getauscht werden. Evtl. dort mal nachsehen, ob sich beide Kanäle gleich verhalten, wenn du den jeweiligen Knüppel nach vorn schiebst.

Echt toll gemacht André, vielen Dank!
Recently I finished building this tank and I want to say thank you for sharing such a nice design. For shore the hours invested in development stand for your great passion André.

I’m still testing different setups for motors and channel mixing. At the moment I am tinkering on some little issues with the tracks:
1) Teeth of the tracks are breaking off as they stick/suck in to the holes of the wheels. Consequently, the whole track blocks and with fewer teeth the tracking wheel stutters.

2) Probably an issue of inter-layer adhesion, maybe my black filament is not that strong but, sadly, I have plenty of it. I will try to find a way to get the layers printed in tracking direction. It seems difficult for now, since more material is needed for supports.

RC Tank

Hallo ist der Deckel schon fertig

und wie schließe ich den motor an den fartenregler an

wo kommt der rot oder blaue oder schwarze Kabeln hin den es gibt ja nur a b c mfg

Die Reihenfolge ist zunächst egal.
Kabel beliebig anstecken zum Beispiel so:

rot -> a
blau -> b
schwarz -> c

Dann einschalten und die Drehrichtung überprüfen. Wenn der Motor in die falsche Richtung dreht, dann müssen einfach zwei beliebige Leitungen vertauscht werden.

rot -> b
blau -> a
schwarz -> c

Okay und wie schließe ich es a wenn man nur eine pistolenfernbedienung hat mfg

Die Verbindung zwischen Motor und Fahrtregler ist doch unabhängig von der Art der Fernsteuerung?!
Das Steuern der zwei Fahrtregler bzw. der beiden Motoren funktioniert mit einer Pistolenfernbedienung nur mit einem Mischer, der den Gashebel und das Lenkrad entsprechend mischt.

Zum Beispiel der hier:


Not to be a pain but are you still planning a cover, would finish it off nicely :-)

Ja ich dachte sie haben die Links gleich dafür den es gibt sehr viele schrauben und Muttern mfh

gibt es eine liste 0der link wo die schrauben und muttern her sind mfg

In der Beschreibung gibt es Tabelle , drauf klicken steht alles drin . Das meiste von Ebay

Okay danke für die Antwort aber was mir aufgefallen ist gibt es ein Deckel wegen der Elektronik zwecks Schnee oder Regen mfg

André hat eine schicke Abdeckung in Arbeit. Ich warte auch schon gespannt darauf.

Hello, i was wondering what size/capacity battery was used on this model? Also the type of controller transmitter/receiver?

Staind earlier wrote that he is using a 3S 5000 mAh Lipo. This gives him about one hour of runtime.
I'm using only 2S at the moment with a capacity of 2200 mAh. With this Lipo I can run the tank for about 30 minutes.
You need a 2-channel RC system as you have two ESCs to control.

Thank you, much appreciated.

Hallo mit welchem slicer haben sie das getruckt wenn mit können sie mir bitte die koplette einstellung zu mommen lassen in pildern mfg

Ich persönlich benutze Slic3r. Es hat wenig Sinn, die kompletten Einstellungen zu posten. Das hängt viel zu stark vom verwendeten Drucker, dem Slicer und dem Druckmaterial ab. Wenn der Drucker korrekt eingerichtet / konfiguriert bzw. kalibriert ist, dann sind nur noch die allgemeinen Einstellungen wie Wandstärke und Füllfaktor interessant.

Ich habe das Modell auf einem Toolson MKII mit diesen Einstellungen in PETG gedruckt:

Layerhöhe: 0,2 mm
Parameter: 3
Infill: 5% bis 25 %
Top/Bottom Layer: 4

I have a problem with the engine's having trouble throttling up if there is some resistance like a small angle / hill. The belts feel pretty loose so i dont think it is to much resistance in the belt system. Anyone got any tips?

What electronics are you using? With the SunnySky 980 kV motors I have to give about 5-10% forward on the transmitter and the tank just starts speeding up hill or pulls imself over an edge.

I am using the 20amp ESC and SS 980kv from the description list, they run really good once the tank has some speed. It is just that the start up is now working properly if it has some resistance (Like a hill or some angle)

OK, so you are using the same components as I'm doing. My ESC is the 30 A version, but I measured the current draw and it is about 7,5 A @2S full throttle on grass.
I just did a few more tests and I think I know what you mean. The tank indeed needs some distance to build up speed until he is strong enough to go over edges or pull himself up a hill or angle.
I placed the front of the tracks directly against a ledge (book) about 40 mm hight and expected the tank to climb onto it on start up. Instead the motors just stuttered in place and whined.
The problem is the speed/torque behaviour of these kind of motor. At low speed i.e. starting, they have very little torque and they become more powerful as the speed goes up. At 30% throttle the tank easily goes up that book.
I guess that's the trade off for having a high top speed. A motor with a lower kV rating and the same power will be slower but stronger. I am actually thinking of using 600 kV motors, to have more ability to climb at lower speed.
Perhaps André could comment on how his tank is handling the start with some resistance going up hill.

I just noticed in the manual of the ESC, that the default setting for start force is 75%. Perhaps setting this to 100% will help a bit.

I thought people were using a 3S lipo for this, just saw you mentioned 2S. I've just about finished mine and about to start wiring up everything.

Yes, André designed it with 3S Lipo in mind. However, I am using 2S at the moment because that is fast enough for me. I will give 3S a try, when I take the tank to a more open space, where the risk of crashing into something is lower :-)

Thanks for the reply Oger, new to decent RC stuff so didn't realise i could get away with 2S for less speed, i've built this for my kids to 2S should be a perfect way to start, can make my own 2S pack as well :-)

I'm sure your kids will love playing with the tank. 2S is plenty fast. The only problem that might occur, will be the question of whose turn it is to handle the transmitter :-)

What about the electronic parts? What notor should we have to mount? The same as the "original one"?

Kannst du die Datei für die Taranis freigeben mit den einstellungen?

I notice you changed the drive wheel, you rounded out the holes where the track teeth grip in to. Im not a mechanical engineer and dont know much about gears, but when I look at the track+wheels there seems to be very little surface area where the wheel and chain touch. I already have problems with the teeth breaking on my "power tank", isnt your variant going to make this problem a lot worse?

Hello P4man,

Yes i changed the drive wheel. I had to round up the holes, otherwise it don't work. You can see it here
The good thing about the round is that this is self-cleaning. So small stones can be pushed out.
I think your problem is that the power of your motors isn't made for this construkion. Can you take photos so that I can see where the parts break.
How does your gear look like? I wonder that the gear teeth doesn't make problems.

Danke Andre . Hat mir sehr Gefallen , meiner ist fertig 100% in ABS ....... Akku kommt Montag , mache später ein Video .

RC Tank
by Duud

Deiner gefällt mir auch sehr. Wie hast du das mit den zwei Farben gelöst? Über ein Dualdrucker?
Bald geht es weiter :-) http://www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=dfad1e-1501957772.png

Gruß André

I love the cover design, was it ever released? I dont see it on here anywhere....

No, it has not been released so far. I am waiting too...

sieht hammer aus die erweiterung

Das ist einfach , zb Du willst ein teil Drücken für das Du insgesamt 9 meter Filament brauchst und möchtest es in drei Farben haben , schneidest 3 farben Filament je 3 meter und beim laufendem Drücker schiebst immer das nächste stück rein sobald das erste fertig ist . Der nachteil ist Du musst den Drücker beobachten aber bei kleinen Sachen geht das . mit meinem Drücker funktioniert das ohne Problem . bei manchen sachen schneide ich nicht mall zu , ich schneide einfach bei laufendem Drücker das filament und schiebe das ende von anderer Spule rein , hat immer funktioniert . Habe ein bowden Extruder .
Da ein kleiner Beispiel .


I like your design. I wonder how watertight this is. As here in UK, if it is not raining, grass is wet 95% of the year.

You should assume the electronics can get a little wet, but motor/esc's for cars tend be "waterproof" by default, or at least splash water proof. With some plastidip, its easy to make them fully submersible. Your receiver and FPV gear, the protective case is probably enough, but these can also be completely waterproofed if you intend to drive in rain or through water. Look on youtube for tutorials, pretty easy with epoxy and/or some balloons. I actually considered making mine fully submersible and drive under water, but it turns out radio signals dont travel through water, so.. not much point :).

Hi URok

Thanks! High wet grass is no problem for the tank. I think when the grass is really wet it looks very cool how the waterdrops flying around.
Of course the tank gets dirty. But I'm working on a cover.
Here is a video how I drive through wet grass

Best greetings Andre.

Thanks Andre
Ok then, it is time to order PLA. Don`t tell my wife :D
Will be great with FPV

Ive begun printing this as an "upgrade" to my original speedtank. One minor issue so far: the 540 motor bracket screw holes dont match my motor. Mine has 6 screws, not 4, and I believe this is common. Im using this brushless set: https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-3650-Sensorless-Brushless-Waterproof-Motor-60A-ESC-For-110-Monster-Truck-Truggy-Cars-p-1056317.html (which is awesome btw and overkill :) ). I will also need to come up with a way to mount the much larger ESCs. Im unsure they will in the front (its a very right fit with the speedtank).

Hello P4man,
i'm happy that you like my tank. I have updated the 540_motor_bracket_V1_1. Now the Motor bracket has 6 holes. I hope it fits now.
I also uploaded a new esc_holder_universal_V1. Now you have more possibilities to mount your ESC. I hope you can mount them now.
If I have to optimize the holder still let me know.

I hope I see soon pictures of the tank :-)

Wow, thanks for the quick updates :). It will be a while before I can share pictures, I only just finished the speedtank, and Im still using it to experiment with, like different materials for the tracks. So far, I learned that PLA is better than ABS, now Im printing semi flex PLA. I need strength, since my setup is extremely overpowered. Have a look here: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:365695 check the video. Thats half throttle on 2S. The plan was for 3S, but i'll probably stick to 2S :)

I also learned that some suspension would be really, really useful. For better traction, and for more steady video. Do you have any plans to make something with suspension? I did some research, and found this lego tank suspension video quite useful for inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQgdOdTWVoo
Designing it would probably be too hard for me though.

RC Speed Tank
by P4man

You are right your setup is extremely overpowered. I think with my design you have the same problems. Because it is too overpowered :-).
That is the reason i used only the small motors.

Yes I have already thought about a suspension. There will be a second version of my tank (maybe winter). The body will remain the same but the chain drives will change completely. The chains will be bigger (snow chains). I will design the chains that the profile is directed upwards when printing. The drive wheels going into the chains. I will also try to install a suspension. But I don't know if the suspension works at this power and speed. We will see.

I will also design a slider and a snowblower. For that you only have to replace the bumper. So there will be a lot of updates :-)

Wat bist Du denn für ein krasser Typ ey :-)

Meinst du mich oder P4man bzw sein Speed Tank.

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced receiver/transmitter (controller) for this, do i need a 4 channel?

You only need two channels. There are several approaches; the cheapest traditional stick radio you can find, something like this:

And use one stick for left motor, one for right. Tank drivers seem to prefer this way of controlling, though I dont think it would work for me. And you will need to spring load both sticks (or neither), by default one stick will have no spring (wont self center) and instead has a ratchet. Most radio's let you change this however ('mode 1 to mode 2")

Alternatively, you could use a mixer to mix the two channels, so that "forward" control will go to both motors equally, but steering will change the speeds proportionally . Radio's with a built in mixer are considerably more expensive, especially if you want a pistol grip radio. Im yet to find a cheap one. But you should be able to use a vtail hardware mixer like this one:

V tail mixing ought to be the same as mixing 2 throttle signals for a tank: one channel goes to both outputs equally (throttle on a tank, elevator with v tail airplane) and one channel determines relative motion between both channels (turning a tank and rudder in a plane). If that works, you can use the cheapest stick or pistol style radio you can find, something like this:

Thanks for the reply, made things a lot simpler. I'm working on a few projects for the kids so i might just get both controllers and the tail mixer and see what works best.

Let us know how the mixer works. Its possible it will reduce your throttle range, and the only way to get "full throttle" (and to just one motor) is giving, well full throttle + full steering. Full throttle + neutral steering may result in just 50% throttle. On most radio mixers you can define that, but Im not sure how the vtail mixer handles it. If its a problem, you could try recalibrating the ESCs to accept the ~50% throttle signall as full throttle (and hope it doesnt shut down when it gets a signal >100%)

Just to follow up the v-Tail with pistol grip controller doesn't work or i couldn't get it to work at least so i've went with dual stick controller, will use the pistol grip controller in another project. Should be here tomorrow so i can finish the wiring and i'll be sorted :-)

@ P4man: Many thanks for the reply

Too bad I only discovered your design after I almost finishing printing the original speed tank! You made a lot of improvements I like, I may just print this next. Question though: how tight should the belt be?

Hellou, great project, looks much better than the original one! I didnt notice one thing - whats the total weight of this tank? Also, did u think about making some cover for it?

Hello diem,
Thank you. The total weight (with battery,motors,screws... but without gopro) is 2,850 kg.
What do they mean with "making some cover for it?"
Do you mean a cover to close the tank (housing cover)?
A cover is still planned. The cover will be additional so no other parts have to be replaced.

Best greetings Andre.

A housing would be great for this, i am printing the tank now and i am about 25hrs into it and i am looking forward to building it. Myself i am living in Norway and we have alot of snow and i would love to test this out during the upcoming winter. I will upload a Made of this in a few weeks when all the parts ordered arrives.

Hello Staind, thanx for reply! Yes, i mean housing cover so we can make snow blower in the winter :D

btw. i'm printing this tank for few days (my friend too). I've got ~40% for now :)

(Übersetzt von englisch nach deutsch)Ich habe mir die Teileliste angeschaut, viele Schrauben, und ich habe mich gefragt, "nachdem ich das alles ausgedruckt habe, wie werde ich es wissen, wie ich es versammeln kann. Im Design ist es offensichtlich, wie man alles zusammensetzt und wenn nicht jemand kann Bitte helfen Sie mir mit einem Video oder einer Anleitung irgendwelcher Art. Danke euch allen so sehr, Eric

(translated from english to german)
I was looking at the parts list, lots of screws, and i was wondering, "after i print all of this how will i know how to assemble it. In the design is it obvious on how to put everything together and if not can somebody please help me with a video or instruction of some sort. Thanks you all so much, Eric

Additionally, do i need any extra parts asside from the basic electronics and screws(i.e gears etc.). Also do i need to print all of the files or are some old files with updates already loaded??? Thanks

Hello ELove2002,

thanks for your comment. I planned to upload a assembly instruction but in the last two weeks I didn't have much time.
This weekend I made a completely assembly instruction. You can find the it in the Documentation.

Best greetings Andre.

Hello Andre,

I like the design of your RC tank and started printing yesterday. Now, I've started gathering alI the other stuff I need. I saw the ESC's you use doesn't have a reverse. Have you tried the reverse firmware for the Simonk ESC's? or is ther a reason why you don'n want a reverse.

I cant figure out how the ESC's are mounted on the ESC_holder. Do you have a picture of this?

Btw. Wenn es für Sie einfacher ist, kann ich Deutsch lesen. ;-)

Hello Fribbler,

I´m happy that you like my design. I hope I can see pictures of your tank soon.
You saw correctly, my ESC haven't got a reverse. I actually haven't tried the reverse firmware for the Simonk ESC's. But I will do it soon.
In the new assembly instruction you can see how i mount the ESC.

Best greetings Andre.

I think the ESCs André used might actually have reverse.
I bought two "Emax Simon Series 30A" and in the manual there is an option D8 "Rotation Direction" where you can choose from Normal, Reverse and Bidirectional. Bidirectional is for 3D flying of multicopters, where you need to reverse the rotation to fly upside down. So stick in the middle is zero, stick up is clockwise and stick down is counter-clockwise.
I have not tested my ESCs yet, as I am waiting for the motors.

To my mind, using ESCs with reverse is a must for a radio controlled tank...

I received my ESCs (Emax SimonK 20A) yesterday. Unfortunately there is no D8 option in the manual.
I agree with you, we need a reverse on this tank. ;-) So, I have to reprogram, I'm going to figure out how.

To be continued.

Hey mir gefällt dein Rc Tank und würde Ihn gerne bauen. Meine frage ist nur wie du die Elektrik zusammen gebaut hast. Wäre es vielleicht auch möglich den Lipo anzugeben, welcher mit verbaut ist, dann kann ich den mit bestellen. Und die letzte frage ist wie es mit Feuchtigkeit ausschaut, das Teil schaut so aus als ob es im Dreck und Schlamm noch mehr spass macht. Vielleicht ist ja ne Abdeckplatte oder so noch angedacht um das ganze zu schützen.

André schreibt weiter unten, dass er einen 3S 5000 mAh Lipo verwendet und damit ca. 1 h lang fahren kann. Auf glattem Untergrund deutlich länger.

Ich weiß nicht genau, wie André seine Elektrik gemacht hat, prinzipiell hast du für jeden Motor einen eigenen Fahrtregler (ESC), beide werden eingangsseitig parallel an den Akku angeschlossen.

Um lenken zu können, musst du entweder je einen Fahrtregler auf einen Steuerknüppel der Fernbedienung legen, sodass du dann wie in einem Panzer die linke und rechte Kette getrennt ansteuern kannst. Also, beide Knüppel nach oben-> Panzer fährt vorwärts, Nur linker Knüppel nach oben-> Panzer biegt nach rechts ab etc.

Oder du stellst dir einen Kreuz-Mischer in deiner Fernsteuerung (falls diese das kann) ein, sodass du ganz normal mit Gasknüppel und Lenkung arbeiten kannst. Der Mischer sorgt dann dafür, dass der entsprechende Motor richtig herum angesteuert wird für Kurvenfahrt etc.

Wenn das nicht geht, brauchst du einen Kreuzmischerbaustein, den du zwischen die Regler und den Empfänger steckst. Dieser Baustein sorgt dann dafür, dass du mit Gas und Lenkung fahren kannst.

Wichtig ist, dass du die rote Leitung bei einem der Regler unterbrichst und nicht mit zum Empfänger führst! Die Regler haben beide BEC, d.h. sie erzeugen mit einem Schaltregler aus der Akkuspannung 5V zum Betrieb des Empfängers. Diese 5 V liegen auf der roten(+) Leitung. Wenn beide 5 V Ausgänge an den Empfänger gehen, werden die Schaltregler der beiden Regler verbunden und versuchen, gegeneinander zu arbeiten, was die Regler zerstören kann. Darum nur das BEC von EINEM Regler verwenden.

Hallo Monky,

Oger hat eigentlich schon alles. Ich verwende ein 3S 5000mAh Lipo von Turnigy. Man kann aber sicherlich auch einen kleineren nehmen.
In meiner Dokumentation findest du jetzt auch einen einfachen Schaltplan.

Erfahrungen wie es ist richtig im Schlamm zu fahren habe ich noch nicht, allerdings bin ich bereits bei Regen und nassen Rasen gefahren.
Dies war kein Problem. In meinen ersten Versionen hatte ich im Seitenteil noch Löcher (um Material/PLA zu sparen), diese sind aber schnell verschwunden da dort der Dreck im Innenraum reinkam. Also schwimmen kann er nicht aber nasser Rasen ist kein Problem.

Eine Abdeckplatte ist noch geplant. Wann ich diese allerdings fertig habe steht allerdings noch offen.

@Oger: Vielen Dank für deine ausführliche Erklärung

Gruß André

Hallo André,

ich habe gerade deine Anleitung angeschaut. Meine Herren, da hast du dir aber Mühe gegeben. Vielen Dank! Das Meiste hatte ich mir schon zusammengereimt, aber so ist es natürlich deutlich angenehmer.
Wenn doch die Motoren schon da wären.... :-) Naja, dann eben erstmal Muttern einsetzen.

Viele Grüße

Hallo Olaf,

ich dachte mir bevor ich eine Anleitung auf deutsch und englisch schreiben muss mache ich das lieber so.
Ich kommen weniger fragen auf.

Solltest du irgendwelche Probleme beim Zusammenbau bemerken dann schreib mich ruhig an. Jeder Drucker druckt ein wenig anders. Vielleicht habe ich ja irgendwo die Toleranzen zu groß oder zu klein einkalkuliert so dass es bei mir zwar passt aber bei euch vielleicht nicht.

Gruß André

Hey there,
Could you tell me what exactly has changed and what the effects are?
i was in the middle of printing this when you rolled the updated files, and i already printed the files that got updated.
I like how neatly curved the front of the tank is, i'm planning on printing the chassis_2 part in semi-transparent PETG so i can mount lights behind it.
i'm also planning on using longer motors, i had a spare set of these ( https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ntm-prop-drive-series-28-26-1100kv-252w-short-shaft-version.html ) and had to modify the motor bracket to give it 7mm more space.
I'm printing the whole thing in PETG, with different infill on some parts, parts that seemed to me could get a lot of stress got a 100% infill.

Thanks for sharing this!

Hey xSiNx,

I added a screw. Now you can use this screw to adjust the contact pressure to the gear wheel.

You only need to print the parts left/right_gearbox_1_V1_1 and left/right_motor_bracket_brushless_V1_1.
The Part left/right_gearbox_2_V1 will work with the new one.

I don´t think that you can use longer motors, because you need a little space to install the gearboxes.

At the moment i'm working on a part that you can use 540 Motors.

I see what you mean, it's going to be a tight fit that's for sure, after looking at the new files i managed to shrink down to adding 5mm.. i'll manage to squeeze them in, i think..

people will love those new motor mount's, i don't own those motors that's also a reason i preferred your design. It used somewhat similar parts i had laying around, so without large modifications i could make it work.

Also could you tell me how you are driving these? i guess just directly from receiver to ESCs?

Thanks for the response =)

Interessantes Design, sehr schön! Mir gefällt vor allem die Möglichkeit, die Kette zu spannen. Hast du die Zahnräder auch aus PLA gedruckt? Ich könnte mir vorstellen, dass der Verschleiß ziemlich stark ist. Ich werde wohl komplett in PETG drucken.
Ist das hier der richtige Motor?



Hallo Oger,

es freut mich das dir mein Tank gefällt.
In meiner ersten Version habe ich alle Teile in PLA gedruckt. in den letzten Wochen ist mir aber aufgefallen (wie du bereits vermutest), das der Verschleiß an den Zahnrädern zu hoch ist. Ich habe heute meine Beschreibung aktualisiert. Dort steht jetzt auch das die 2 Zahnräder und auch der Motorhalter in PETG gedruckt werden sollten.

Zum Motor:
Ja genau den Motor verwende ich. Normalerweise kann man aber auch andere Bushlessmotoren verwenden.
Diese Kombination sollte auch gehen: (Ist aber nicht getestet)
Motorritzel Modul 1 14 Zähne:
Motor 980 KV:

Gruß André

Hallo André,

danke für die Antwort! Ich habe jetzt alle Teile bestellt. Drucken werde ich komplett in PETG.
Auf deinen Bildern sieht es so aus, dass du mit 3S fährst. Werden die Motoren recht warm im Betrieb?

Ich bin am Überlegen, ob ich deine Ketten etwas modifiziere. Mir gefällt das Design mit dem Graben am Boden für mehr Grip im Gelände sehr gut. Aber auf Parkett oder anderem Glatten Grund wird es wohl stark rutschen. Ich überlege, einfach 50 mm breite Stücke aus Mossgummischnur 3 mm stark in diesen Graben hineinzukleben. Die Haftreibung auf glattem Grund ist superstark und im Gelände sollte es auch funktionieren.
Ich werde wohl den Graben auf der Kettenunterseite von rechteckig auf rund mit Radius 3mm umändern, sodass sich die Moosgummischnur richtig hineinschmiegen kann und nicht so leicht abgerupft wird. Mal sehen, ob das funktioniert oder ob der Gummi ganz schnell abgerieben sein wird. Evtl. ist festerer normaler Gummi besser geeignet.

Viele Grüße

Hallo Olaf,

ja genau ich benutze ein 3S 5000mA Akku. Bei starker Beanspruchung (fahren im Rasen, / Sand mit Vmax) werden die Motoren schon warm, aber nach der Änderung am Motorhalter (zusätzliche Schraube und PETG) hatte ich keine Probleme mehr mit der Wärme. Die Fahrzeit ist damit echt lange. Bei guter Auslastung kann man damit ca. 1 Stunde fahren. Fährt man auf Asphalt werden die Motoren Hand-warm und die Akkulaufzeit erhöht sich deutlich.

Ich plane Ketten zu konstruieren die ein Gummi Profil besitzen. Dazu benötigt man aber ein Dual 3D Drucken. Ansonsten würde ich eine Gummimatte/Riefenmatte (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kabelmatte-Kabelbrucke-Feinriefenmatte-Isoliermatte-Gummimatte-Riefenmatte-3mm-/172421389830?var=&hash=item28251d9e06:m:mKNUKBXM-Mv8zm2AkBISmmA) nehmen, die passend schneiden und mit 2 Komponentenkleber verkleben.
Moosgummi würde ich nicht empfehlen, ich denke das ist zu schnell weg.

Des Weiteren sind noch Schneeketten geplant. Die werden breiter sein und das Antriebskonzept wird dabei geändert. Momentan ist es ja so das die Kette mit dem Zipfel in die Räder greift. Ich möchte das Konzept so ändern das die Räder in die Kette greifen.
Das hätte den Vorteil das man die Kettenglieder so drucken kann, dass das Profil oben liegt.

Auch ein Schneeschieber ist geplant. Die Platte in der Front ist ja nicht ohne Grund konstruiert worden. Klar es sieht ein wenig schicker aus mit der Platte, aber eigentlich soll man die gegen ein Schneeschieber/ Schneefräse austauschen können.

Am Wochenende werde ich auch den Motorhalter für ein 540er Motor online stellen.

Also ich bin noch lange nicht fertig mit meinen Tank :-)

Hallo Olaf und André,

statt Gummi Profil zu drucken: mach doch die Nut in den Kettengliedern so, dass man direkt ein Stück Flexfilament reinkleben kann, also z.b. 2,85mm Nut. Vorteil: Kein Flexdruck nötig, nur Filament und ein bisschen Kleber. Und schön rund ist es dann auch.


Hallo André,

oh schön, auf deine Schneemods bin ich gespannt. Ich habe schon einige Kettenfahrzeuge gebaut und Schnee war dann immer der Härtetest. Ich benutze gern die Universalkette von Veroma. Die war z.B. beim Blizzard EP und beim Catwiesel verbaut. Die gab es so um 2002 herum bei Conrad unter anderem.


Die Kette hat Aussparungen, in die dann die Zähne vom Kettenantriebsrad hineingreifen. Dummerweise setzen sich sehr gern Kieselsteine in diese Löcher rein, sodass dann die Kette abspringt oder verklemmt. Im Schnee setzen sich die Löcher auch gern zu. Ich denke daher, dass es eigentlich besser ist, wenn die Kette den Zapfen trägt und das Kettenrad die Löcher. Du hast natürlich recht, dass das für den Druck besser wäre, wenn die Kette keinen Zapfen hat.
Die Frage ist sicherlich auch, wie gut das PETG Schnee daran hindert, sich innen an den Ketten und auf den Laufrollen festzupappen. Bei meinen Fahrzeugen baut sich recht schnell eine Schneeschicht auf, sodass dann der Antrieb verklemmt, weil die Laufrollen immer größer werden, bis die Kette klemmt. Evtl. kann hier eine Abdeckung auf beiden Seiten der Kette helfen, den Schnee gar nicht erst in das Laufwerk gelangen zu lassen.

Aber jetzt wird erstmal gedruckt, bis auf die Motoren sind alle Teile da.

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