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FuseBox2 CoreXY 3D Printer
by _AlexY, published
- Print Settings
- BOM (Make sure to get plenty of extra fasteners, zipties, wires, etc.)
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STLs and full BOM are now available!
Github (Check here for latest parts): https://github.com/alexyu132/fusebox2
Update 5/18/18: Small tweaks to gantry, curved edges on plug box
Update 3/20/18: Modified extruder to be compatible with flexible filaments. Tested with TPU @25mm/s.
Update 3/1/18: Added double length alignment jig for 2040 access holes.
An affordable and robust CoreXY printer loosely based on the original FuseBox. Materials cost ranges from $300-400 largely depending on what hotend and electronics you choose to use.
170mm/s printing: https://youtu.be/dm6vGjRgSQ8
Marlin 2 speed test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUQ9sjp_YzY
Benchy print: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cd1lirX5iP4
Movement test: https://youtu.be/IUSiRgaVAkE
Specifications and Features
- Rigid 2020(top and sides)/2040(bottom) aluminum extrusion frame
- Non-crossing CoreXY belt path
- 210x200x210mm build area
- 390x340x412mm size
- MK2 or MK3 PCB heatbed with 3 point leveling
- Strong part cooling blower (4020s)
- E3D V6 or Lite6 + 40mm cooling fan and Bowden extruder
- 24v + 32 bit electronics recommended
Improvements over original FuseBox
- Slightly more compact
- Slightly larger build area
- 2020 frame for much greater rigidity
- Belt tensioning improvements - much easier to tension and screw-clamped to prevent slipping out
- Screw-clamped bearing and rod mounts - no more structural zip ties
- Proper belt idlers - eliminates belt rubbing
- (Optional) Extrusions joined via tapped ends + screws instead of corner brackets
- Lowered part count - y rods integrated into motor and idler mounts
- Vertical gantry for easier hotend installation/removal and better cooling
- Better endstop mounting and easier adjustability
- Robust electronics mounting with integrated display and IEC switch/fuseholder mounts - PSU flipped upside down so cooling fan doesn't interfere with heatbed
Any well-calibrated printer
Some parts require your printer to be decent at bridging (carriage, idler blocks).
PETG or other temperature resistant filament should be used for the hotend cooling duct and is also recommended for the bed mounts. PLA is fine for the rest of the printed parts. 1.2mm walls/top/bottom and 40-50% infill work well for the structural pieces. For non-structural pieces like the display enclosure, you can drop the infill % and shell thicknesses.
Finishing printed parts
The hotend carriage has a piece of integrated support under the fan duct. Simply peel it off the finished part.
Make sure to get rid of stringing or other rough areas where the linear bearings and rods attach to make installing those parts easier. Some parts may have a tight fit depending on your printer.
FuseBox2 does away with corner brackets and instead uses a tap and drill method to join the extrusions - this results in a lower part count, a cleaner appearance, and likely greater rigidity.
To connect 2 extrusions perpendicularly, use an M5 tap to tap the end of the first extrusion. On the second extrusion, drill an access hole where you want the first extrusion to connect. Partially screw in a 12mm M5 bolt to the end of the first extrusion, and slip its head into the channel of the second extrusion. Tighten down to attach the pieces rigidly together.
A more detailed explanation of how to connect extrusions using this method is available here: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?177,601562
BOM (Make sure to get plenty of extra fasteners, zipties, wires, etc.)
|2020 extrusion, 350mm||2|
|2020 extrusion, 340mm||6|
|2020 extrusion, 184mm||1|
|2020 extrusion, 202mm||2|
|2040 extrusion, 184mm||1|
|2040 extrusion, 350mm||2|
|2040 extrusion, 300mm||2|
|Heaters, motors, electronics|
|MK2 compatible PCB heatbed||1|
|15A 24v PSU or 30A 12v PSU||1|
|E3DV6 compatible hotend with PTFE tube and coupler||1|
|Any electronics (32 bit preferred, mounts available for azsmz board+lcd)||1|
|NEMA 17 stepper (60+ oz in/42+ N cm preferred)||3|
|NEMA 17 short body stepper (up to 30mm motor body length)||1|
|IEC socket with fuse and switch||1|
|~5A 250v fuse||1|
|IEC power cord||1|
|Mechanical endstop (Note: remove the microswitch from one of them to use on the x axis)||3|
|40mm axial fan||1|
|2040s radial blower||1|
|Thermistor for heatbed||1|
|8mm OD smooth rod, 300mm length||6|
|LM8LUU linear bearing||6|
|T8 leadscrew+nut, 250mm length, 2mm pitch preferred||1|
|16T GT2 idler for 6mm belt(6 toothed/2 smooth or 8 smooth)||8|
|20T GT2 pulley for 6mm belt||2|
|3m GT2 belt, 6mm||1|
|5mm to 8mm flex coupler||1|
|MK8 extruder gear||1|
|Fasteners and Hardware|
|M5x8mm button head bolt||51|
|M5x12mm button head bolt||28|
|M5 T nuts (drop-in recommended)||51|
|M3x8mm socket head bolt||16|
|M3x10mm button head bolt||36|
|M3x25mm button head bolt||13|
|Bed leveling spring, nut, and bolt set||3|
|Adhesive felt feet||4|
|~200x213mm glass sheet||1|
|~200x213mm PEI sheet with adhesive||1|
|Cable mesh (optional)||Varies|
|18AWG wire for AC input||Varies|
|14AWG wire for heatbed and main DC power||Varies|
|Small binder/bulldog clips||4|
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FuseBox2 CoreXY 3D Printer by _AlexY is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.
What does this mean?
- You must attribute (give credit) to the creator of this Thing.
- Remixing or Changing this Thing is allowed.
- Commercial use is allowed.
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