# 5mm Calibration Cube Steps

Jun 3, 2012

### Thing Apps Enabled

Stepping on this hurts more than stepping on lego. Great for testing slicer settings, though. ^^

hello,

I have a problem with my z-axis calibration. I printed this thing, scaled by 2. So every Cube should be 1 cm tall.
See below the distance from ground to each row:
1st row: 10,35 mm
2nd row: 20,05 mm
3rd row: 29,70 mm
4th row: 39,50 mm
5th row: 49,30 mm

Does somebody have a clue why the distance ist too much on the first row and getting less by each row?
Thanks for any suggestion how to fix this!

Hi Phoclure,
I've just a quick look at your data. If you take the first 10mm as a base layer issue that throws the first and second 10mm off to a degree (eg, overextrusion on the base layer/first few solid layers which take a few layers for the print to build up and overcome) then the 3rd, 4th and 5th layers all look more consistent.
The difference between your 2nd to 5th levels varies from 9.65 to 9.8mm when you've asked for 10mm. Have you checked your z-axis steps per mm value? If this is off, then it would explain why when you ask for 10mm you only get 9.8mm. Check out the calculators are https://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/#stepspermmlead to determine what your z-axis estep values should be.
Going off of your figures - It looks like your z-axis estep values are under by 2%. Not down your original z-axis estep number, then try multiplying it by 1.0204 and then try reprinting the piece.
Good luck!

Thanks for the model, Nice way to see what's going on.

I used this to test my 101Hero, 98% perfect but that's good enough for me, Thanks :)

I used Cura 2.1.2 to slice and print in PLA on the Monoprice 3D Select. The leftmost set of cubes is narrower along the X-axis than all the rest (4.9mm vs 5mm). The bridges also sag but I do not see any bridge settings in this version or CURA so I'm not going to worry about that for now. Would like to figure out what's going on with the left side though... Any thoughts/suggestions?

Hello i am trying to get this piece to rpint correcltly, but when i look it from top the last cube is printing not square, the cubes start to get rounde as i go up in layers, i mean when perimeter starts to shrink.

http://puu.sh/mQFCp/f3b7a28972.jpg

Im very new to this, and i cant solve it :(

I'm not an expert, but my guess is that you need to change the fan settings. Try that, and if it doesn't work, just get over it. If only the top cube becomes warped, maybe it won't make as much of a difference.

Howdy,
I used this tonight to calibrate my M3D and the first level is offset in the Y and X directions from the rest. Levels 2 - 5 are perfect. Any suggestions on fixing this issue?

Haha, that was also my first thought ;D

What I need after printing this is a miniature Q-Bert to go with it ;D

That was a long time ago :-)

I have an issue that always occurs between layers 22 and 28 or so. The solid infill starts to turn into a blob and ends up being higher than the perimeter. At this point the nozzle starts dragging along the infill and it just turns into a mess! I've tried turning down my E step value and it doesn't seem to help much, unless maybe I'm just not going low enough (tried as low as 930 from 945). I'm printing ABS at 216C.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I ve the same issue. On the last 2 steps there is excesive material due to the infill and the nozzle mess with it.

At first I supposed its a matter of high or infill area so i printed a single column of 25x5x5 mm and it printed it perfectly.. so im running out of options... Any ideas would be appreciated. (ps: Im using slic3r)

Problem solved. Marlin configuration for extrusion rate was wrong ( larger than default) reducing this value solved the problem.

On the lower cubes it cant be noticed because the extra material extruded merges with the infill.

What does it mean when the cubes are bigger overall and if the cubes are larger along one side than the other? Using ABS.

Try in Slic3r, printer settings, Firmware, Use Relative E distances: ON. That solved the same problem in my reprap.

I used this and another object to calibrate and everything is great except the top block of the object is slightly warped (looks twisted). It's not so bad that you can't tell what it is, but bad enough that it's obvious. Everything else is nice and crisp, straight lines, the hollowed out areas look good as does the bottom. What could be causing the warping? Vibration? Temperature?

There is another piece, smaller, that I would suggest to be printed prior to this one - http://reprap.org/wiki/Sfacthttp://reprap.org/wiki/Sfact, _40x10.stl
I'm using both to calibrate my printer and both are awesome, IMO.
Thanks for sharing!

Great 2nd print for any printer to test a range of setting.I must of printed atlaest 50 of these so far :D

This is a great resource I've been using a lot in calibrating my first RepRap. One thing that would help (with all the calibration objects on Thingiverse) is to have some set of instructions to go along with the object. Such as, "if the long bridge sags try reducing your flow," or, "if the top cube is messy try changing the infill rate for small areas." In my most recent test the bottom layers start out a little messy with a few little peaks and threads, but the print improves after a little while (.2mm layers with a .5mm nozzle and 3mm filament). It would be great to have some suggestions in hand to address that for this object.

Hi thinkyhead, I have updated the instructions above, I hope this helps.

Hi, what slic3r setting did you use to print this cube steps?

I know every machine is unique, I'll use it as starting point.

It will be great if you post them. thanks anyway...

loupe

Hi loupe, I have included some of the settings above, however, consider running through the linked calibration guide, as that really helped me with improving my print quality & determining what settings, (temp, e-steps, etc) to run my printer at.