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kbowley

MPSM V2 fan shroud with blow ring

by kbowley Jul 11, 2017
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Printing the 40mm version with supports can easily gum-up the holes...so flip it upside down! Print was much cleaner, and the air flow was unobstructed. Left is with the 'ring' down, right is with the 'ring' up. Using Hatchbox PLA @ 205 degrees, Supports-On-Buildplate-Only. Used a Raft to make sure the supports didn't jiggle. Looks pretty good!

Hey man good design had a minor request considering I can’t open this (properly to modify) in fusion 360 I bought a Monoprice Select Mini pro and I wanted to use the 40mm fan version but the mpsm pro uses a probe that’s mounted to the front of the assembly wanted to no if u could export the file in any other format or if u could add a mounting location for the probe

When printing with supports, make sure you select "touching build plate" otherwise it will try to put (unnecessary and obstructive) supports inside of the air circle. RE: 40mm design.

Just curious.. which way did you orient it when printing with supports? Did you leave it as is?

I printed it with the ring up. You can print with the ring down too. I am reprinting it with the ring down because I want to do it with two colors. Cura shows it trying to fill in the ring with supports either way unless you select touching build plate.

I printed off the version 3 with the 30mm fan and got two gaps as well. I'm just going to fill the gap with a bit of shoe goo because other than that the print is fine.

There is a gap on both sides by hot end interface surface is due to a thin wall that is not being sliced or filled in by Cura. I opened up the STL file in MeshMixer to reduce the number of triangles and then used Fusion 360 to extrude those walls 0.5 mm. That fixed the gap but there are other issues with the stl being non-manifold. Maybe the creator can look into fixing that. You can clearly see the problem in Fusion 360 with the STL imported. There are a few other spots where there are cavities where it should be solid.

I am currently printing this part but noticed that near the clasp, there is some sort of gap. it runs all along the edge where it should meet the hotend. I can see that the path is wierdly interrupted in Cura, It seems like there is a surface but not a solid. Anyone knows what to do?

I like this design. I printed the 40 mm one and it looks great. Awesome job on that. I have been looking for a shroud that will help cool the back side of my prints, which has trouble with overhangs.

Unfortunately, when I tried to use this shroud with my 40x40x10 noctua fan, it did a terrible job at cooling on all sides. It feels like there is hardly any air coming out at the nozzle. I even had the exhaust holes for the heat brake half covered to divert more air to the nozzle. I had to remove this one. I started reading online about people complaining about the Noctua not being able to generate enough pressure. I have ordered another 40x40x20 mm (not Noctua) fan, in hopes of increasing the static pressure. I will try again after.

I printed this but when I tried to put it on the rails on the extruded didn’t line up so it didn’t fit. I almost broke my printer with this so can somebody please tell me a way to fix this

What’s that big lump on top of your fan in that picture?

Looks like a velocity stack of some sort.

does anyone know if this would fit the mini delta as well?

This will NOT fit on the mini delta. The mounting plate on the mini-delta prevents this style to fit on there. Never quite got around to figuring out a design that fits the delta.

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FYI, you hardcoded 2.9mm for the 40mm fan screw holes. After I fixed that, it worked like a charm, thanks.

I did that on purpose. Having it at 2.9mm allowed the bolt to cut threads directly into the PLA. Of course on a non-calibrated MPSM the holes might be a bit tight.

Is there a version of this that uses a radial blower fan?

I didn't have a radial blower fan around to try. I also thought that a radial blower fan would add too much weight.

I really wanted to put one on my printer, but I only have PLA, so I wanted to make sure everything will be fine if I printed this in PLA. Can you please tell me the affects on the shroud if I print it in PLA and if there are any concerns? Thank you!

PLA is fine to be honest. You might need to reprint it later on down the road, but I've always used PLA for my fan shroud and haven't had a problem even on long (+10 hour) prints.

great design. what i was looking for, bun having trouble either slicing or printing with PETG.
single walls end up having holes. any recommendations on how to force thicker walls?

This is a known issue. I just need to go in and make some changes to thicken up those walls. I never had a problem with the wall thickness, but it's definitely been reported by multiple people.

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I printed the 30mm version 3. on the part by the little ears where it seems to step down I had some gaps. Not sure why. I'm pretty confident my settings are ok. I fixed it up with a 3d pen and the part really seems to fit perfectly and work great, but I thought I'd see if anyone else is having the same issue.

Yeah in my cura there are gaps as well...I didnt realize until i was printing it

did my first test print, and found that i needed to up the temp by ``3-5 degrees after attaching this to get bed adhesion. Anyone else experience having to up the temp?

Printed this MPSM V2 fan shroud because I was having difficulty printing the benchy. Benchy would fail at the top roof on the overhangs of the large windows. PLA would curl up and nozzle would knock benchy off the build plate. After printing and installing this fan shoud successfully printed Benchy. Kudos to kbowley for the supurb design that works and fits perfectly with stock fan.

do you need to use the screws from the stock fan for the 40mm?

I used the screws that came with it will work, as long as the fan is 10mm thick, otherwise I used an appropriately sized M3 screw for my 15mm thick fan.

The ring on my mini seems to not be low enough. It appears to be pointing at the insulation rather than the tip of the nozzle. Is that by design?

It does look a little high, but the holes are angled down, so it might not be to much of an issue. You may be able to slide it down just a little bit. Ideally, the bottom of the ring should be almost flush with the bottom of the heat block.

You guys think this would need to be printed in ABS? Or would just pla work just fine without any warpage from the heat sink??

PLA works just fine. If your heat block radiates enough heat to overcome the cool air blowing out the holes, then you have other issues to worry about (like the insulation on the heat block bursting into flames).

Worked perfect! Printed the 40mm with no supports @ .2mm. Thanks!

I printed a bender with no infill and have no Z-linning with which you should know, the MPSM is notorious for so im freaking shook how much of a quality difference there is, cheers my friend

I'm glad it made a difference for you!

This is probably the best designed fan model for the MP Iv found on Thingiverse. Really appreciate the work that has gone in to this

Thank you!

Only one of the screw holes actually let me tighten the screw fully. .175 layer height.

If you need tighter holes, choose the "Open in Customizer" and set the screw hole size to 2.4 rather than 2.6 (or whatever size is correct for the screws you are using).

The right clasp has snapped off twice for me at 100% infill. Might need some reinforcement. Clasp itself is fine, but pulls out the wall.

This is also happening to me, the spring seems to be pulling on it hard enough that overtime (a month or two) it eventually rips the clasp off the fan shroud.

Would it be possible to send me close-up pictures of the failure? What material was used? Do you live in a dry or humid area? I haven't noticed any stress on mine, but I used PLA and live in a fairly dry area. With more humidity, it might be better to use PETG or ABS, although I haven't personally tried either of those yet.

Dry area. If you look at these on one shroud you can see how the piece ripped all the way off during a print i was doing, some quick reaction with duct tape saved my print. The other shows a piece that has had the stress on it for a bit and is being pull off the piece.

I think I printed these at 0.21875 and I was using Hatchbox PLA.

Ignore the discoloring on the one of them I was using it after it broke as a test for something with acetone.

Thank you for the pictures! I'll try to look closely at the design and see if there is an easy way to strengthen that area. I think my current one is made from Makergeeks Raptor PLA, and I haven't had any problems in that area.

That seems really odd to me. I haven't had a problem with any of the ones I've printed. I think my slicer was set to 1.2 (3 shells) on the walls, and only 20% infill, which might as well have been 100% since all the walls are thin enough to not need infill. I'll have to look closer at mine, but the pressure from the spring should be enough to hold the fan duct in place (same as stock), but not enough to cause enough torque to pull it out of the wall.