Hypercube Evolution (NO brass inserts Version)8mm X-carriage

by warham Jul 15, 2017
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I don't suppose you have a version with 19mm bores for use with LM10UU bearings, do you? I've got a 400x400 HEVO and find even with your VASTLY improved X/Y carriages, with the weight of my Titan Aero the 500mm+ long 8mm rods still deflect more than I'd like...

I never made them because from what i remember there are clearance issues which i think is why Scott never made them. There are some on thingiverse that do but i am not sure if they move the rods farther apart or not, or what they did to make them fit. . The french guy Bruno for sure moves rods father apart on his but then it doesn't fit the normal frame.

Misumi sells a compact 10mm bearing LMKW10 (double length). Those are 17mmx55mm instead of 19mm. Those might be able to be made to fit. I just ordered a few of those bearings. they are $11 each from misumi in usa. I have been wanting to update mine to 10mm hollow rods for a long time and should have hollow chinese rods already waiting. Those bearings should come in next week. ill see what i can do to get them to fit the carriage. Just at quick glance it looks like it should work. cross your fingers.

Hi Warham,

it looks like you don't use the stock fan duct. Do have a .STL file for your version?

The hotend holder im using is a slightly modified version of this from jcen

The X carriage bearing holder will mount up to the stock hotend holder also. It uses the same 4 pin and a screw mounting system.
Im not sure there is any advantage to one of the other. I just don't like using the brass inserts. I found my hotend was a bit to close to the fan duct and it eventually melted a bit. it might be a goof idea to wrap a bit of kapton tape around the end of it....just an idea. I mostly print stuff with out a fan so i have not bothered working on that... Also I switched to a volcano heat block so my fan duct is currently the wrong length. I have some various fan ducts on my other hotend carriages in my things that mount the same but i think i made longer for the volcano. Sorry for the long winded reply.

by jcen517

Hi Warham,

This is awesome, i failed 5 times, 5 times printed, with the original design by Scott 3D, using brass insert, thanks for your hardwork. My question is, this is tested and stable?

Im using it on my machine. works for me.

Alright, I will try. Many Thanks

Hi, what application did you use to remix this?

Very impressed!!

Did it take you long? I've had some success with it but only for simple models

you will pick it up.. i am not an expert at all. i just started playing around because i wanted to make it easier to build

Comments deleted.

Yep, sane for me - thanks for your Thing, will give it a try

I only made 8mm because my machine has 8mm

I see there is only one hole to fasten the hotend carriage nuts. Is it stable? https://ibb.co/eR9sHQ
Or did I oversee something?

Just like the original there are 4 holes to insert 3mm metal alignment pins (dowel pins). Then only needs one screw to hold it together.

I didn't think about it before.... I should have eliminated the need for dowel pins also.

The printer I am using to make my HEVO parts mskes 3mm holes a bit small, so I usually just drill them out with a 1/8" drill. I am awaiting a set of metric drill bits, which are VERY hard to find here in Regina. So I ended up tapping the pins in with a hammer, and got one a bit crooked. That being said, I think if I can get three in straight, the pins are a pretty good way to line everything up.

I find that the PETG does have some shrinkage and most of the holes for screws I make bigger than 3mm in the STL file to accommodate. The pin holes I did not change from the original design size. I thought it would be safer to let them be on the small side so that people can make the hole bigger if they need to. You can also use heat to get the pins in similar to the brass inserts. You might need to counter sink, or chamfer the edge of the hole a little bit in case the plastic volcanos up when you insert the hot pin. Just an idea if its easier than getting a 3mm drill bit.

I solved the problem of getting 3mm drill bits.by ordering a cheap set (1 lb. of drills, 99 in all) for about 20 bucks CDN (15 US).
I plan on only using them to drill plastic, so all I need to do is to check the diameters and toss any that aren't close enough.

As for the one that I put in a bit crooked, all I did to fix that is to enlarge one hole on my extruder mount just a little. It still lets me put it on, and it fits very snug, I figure the other three pins will take care of the accuracy.

BTW, what slicer are you using? I could not get your X carriage to slice using Slic3r, as it looks like it's got a lot of errors. As soon as I load it into Repetier, I get the "not manifold" error message. None of the repair things I tried worked to fix it.

There is a guy on youtube from up there somewhere named AVE. I think he gets cheap tools from a place called Princess or princes? I think its the usa version of harbour freight. Do you have that there?

I use simplify 3d. I tried cura but didnt have as good luck with it. I have not tried slic3r. The STL was made in tinkercad. I think it can output other file types. I am having trouble loading the page on this old PC im currently using. There are like 3 or 4 carriages on this page, i forget which one is the finished one. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5XfdACUlxHk-hypercube-evolution-x-carriage-and-y/editv2

Yes, that would be Princess Auto. We have one here in Regina, but they have no metric drills.. They don't even show metric drills in the national catalogue. It's a great store otherwise! I ordered my metric drill assortment through eBay, after finding a seller who ships from stock in Canada. Should be here this week or early next week.

I'll have a look on your tinkercad page, but I already found an X-carriage that printed well (from glucz). I am thinking I might try to design a magnetic version like the one I saw on facebook.