Thought I would have a stab at a fume extractor for my first published design, idea came from working with my local maker space and how we could quickly and cheaply get extractor for soldering, so I took it upon myself to design something fairly simple and cheap to make.
The design is based around a 120mm PC fan with a 12v wall wart powering it through a switch. A bent metal coat hanger provides support where required however not necessary if you don't want to use that feature.
I printed all of the items in ABS, but this could easily be made in PLA well if required as there is no real stress or strain put on the parts and heat should never be an issue.
Design was done in Solidworks and I have included the original files as well as step files for each part so feel free to customise for switches and jacks etc.
Please let me know of any improvements or customisations you make I would love to see them! Also feel free to check out my weekly block on Wordpress www.thingbricator.wordpress.com
Printed in Hatchbox ABS
bed at 90 C
Extruder at 240 C
Print speed 50 mm/s
Sliced in Cura
Tools and Materials
To build this you will require the following tools and materials;
- Screw driver
- Soldering Iron
- Wire stripper/cutter
- Needle files
- One of each printed part
- 120mm computer fan
- Cooker hood filter
- 12v wall wart
- 12v dc jack
- Rocker switch
- 4 x fan screws
- Super glue
Step 1 - Filing/finishing
You may get away with this but I presume not, I needed a little bit of filing after printing, the main culprit was the four fingers that attache the two parts of the filter casing together. I had to file all four to shape to get them to fit together nicely. I also had to slightly widen for my switch and 12 jack. Also due to the large overhang of the electrical compartment I had quite a bit of sagging which I had to cut out to install the switch.
Lugs after filing
Step 2 - Fan and Filter Assembly
Once each part has been filed, check that the fan back and solder fan parts fit together cleanly. Take the fan frame and using the screws attach it to the fan so that the air will be sucked through the frame when fitted. This part has a counter bore to make sure that the screws engage into the fan and should stop you fitting it on the wrong way round.
Then carefully install the fan back onto this assembly using the four lugs, be careful not to snap them, I snapped one on either side of mine thanks to a weak print, however super glue fixed this.It just need to go together once and be fixed so glue is fine.
Finally cut a square of the filter material out that will fit the hole using a pair of scissors, I used a filter from a cooker hood that I found on eBay. Then install it into the enclosure.
Fan plate installed
Step 3 - Electrics
Cut the connector off of the fan and identify the wires that provide power to the fan, mine were black and red, but they are not all colour coded like this. Easiest way to check is to look at the fan connector end on as it enters the socket on a motherboard, with the index mark at the top, ground will be the left most wire and the 12v+ will to the wire to the right of that. Once you have determined which are power and ground cut any additional wires back as far as possible as they are not required.
Cut the remaining power and ground wires to length, I cut them in half giving me some spare wire as well as a lot to work with. Solder the 12v+ to one side of the switch, solder the other bit of the same coloured wire which you just cut off to the other terminal. Feed the washer and nut of the jack over the ground wire and the power wire coming from the switch and pass them through the hole for the jack.
Solder on the jack, paying attention to your wall wart, it will show you if the centre pin is ground or 12v+. You may also want to install the plug of the wall wart into the jack when soldering, but do not plug it in just to keep the pin central when heat is applied.
Install the jack and tighten up the nut holding it in place. test that the fan and switch work and adjust if required. Finally slide the enclosure onto the bottom of the ban until the holes line up.
Step 4 - Wire Support
The two holes on the bottom are for a metal cable tie to be inserted to make a support arrangement, this is optional as the fan works as it currently is.
TO make the support get a metal coat hanger and straighten it out best you can, cutting overly bent bits like the hook out if required. Using a pair of pliers and a tape measure bend a stand which is roughly 95mm wide and at least 30mm high, the support arms that are inserted into the fan need to be minimum 50mm long.
Once finished insert them into the holes, they may need fettling with a file as I found some coat hangers thicker than others.
Bending the legs