Articulating, Wall-Mounted, Magnetic Phone Mount

by doctriam, published

Articulating, Wall-Mounted, Magnetic Phone Mount by doctriam Jul 23, 2017
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Fusion 360

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20555Views 2586Downloads Found in Mobile Phone


**Update (7/24/2017): Important notes in the print settings.

I've been debating mounting a TV on the ceiling above my bed. The only reason I haven't done it is because of a fear of being crushed by a falling TV while I'm sleeping.

This design allows me to watch Youtube, Netflix, or other streaming video while I'm falling asleep.

Non-Printed Parts:
Adhesive Metal Plate for Magnetic Phone Mounts
4-Pack Enkay 4480-C Magnets
4x Screws that fit in a 5 mm hole with a head diameter no larger than 7.9 mm
4x Wall Anchors for those screws
Electrical Tape

If I had to guess on the screw size based on the charts I found online, I would say it's a #10 screw, but I designed the wall mount around some unlabeled screws and anchors I had lying around.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:



Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus






0.2 mm




Highly Recommended Settings: Keep parts oriented as I've set them. Some parts will require support. The reasoning is that, when printed on my printer at 20%, there was a consistent weak spot at the base of the threading. If you want to print without supports, you can reorient those parts in your slicer and print at a higher infill, maybe 50%.

Infill: 20%
Wall Width: 1.2 mm
Top Thickness: 1.2 mm

Also, for parts that have to fit together, I highly recommend using one printer to print all the parts. I have found that one of my printers prints marginally larger (0.1-0.2 mm/20 mm), and on larger pieces, the tolerances will be off enough that the pieces will not fit right.



The bottom layers on both of my printers tend to screw with the tolerances. I had to scrape the rims of the holes for the magnets before they would pop in, essentially widening the diameters for the first couple of layers.

Magnetic Mount Cap

The electrical tape provides a higher-friction surface than the plastic provides. Place a few strips across the surface of the cap that the phone will sit on, and this helps to prevent the phone from sliding.

Make sure the cap is screwed down firmly to minimize the distance from the adhesive metal plate on the back of your phone and the magnets.

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this is very cool. I am printing at 50% infill and it is very solid! thanks!

i'm currently printing this for my mini computer :)

Let me know how it works out.

it turned out great! ill bet you get crazy tolerance on your machine as i had to sand down a few parts. i'm printing on my cr-10.
did you print this on yours?

No, I did mine using an Anet A8 and a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. I didn't have the CR-10 at the time. Saw the pics; nice job!

For people out there that don't have access to magnets that exact size and dont want to commit to putting double sided tape on your phone, I bet you could print out a phone case for your phone and hot glue it to the mount ( FYI I haven't printed one, this is just a suggestion)

Not a bad suggestion. I'd like to know how well that holds if someone does it.

How hard would it be for someone to put a c clamp instead of the base mount that screws into the wall.

i might try to put this clamp on the base or something bigger.

G-Clamp fully printable

That would be really cool. Let me know if it works for you.

Not sure. You could either edit the file yourself or maybe bolt one of the pieces to something that can be clamped. If I get some time between work and school, I might give it a try, but it may be faster if someone else with more free time can take a stab at it.

Hi, what application do you use to create the 3D model?

Fusion 360

how many of each part should i print

I did:
Arm - Threaded (x2)
Arm - Unthreaded (x2)
Short Arm - Threaded (x1)
Short Arm - Unthreaded (x1)
Knob (x7)
Everything Else (x1)

You can try more, but I haven't tried to test the breaking point. For each new section of Arm or Short Arm, you should just need 1 knob.
Note that, in the picture of it mounted to the wall, I had not added the short arms. So, to match the picture, do:
Knob (x5) and remove the Short Arm sections altogether.

thank You, Ill send you a pic when its done

Please do. I'd definitely like to see how it works for other people. Mine has been working out great.

This is very nice! By the way, the fear of being crushed by a television in your sleep is called telesquishosomnophobia, I think. There are support groups!

I should definitely seek some help for that problem.

What filament did you use? PLA, ABS, nGen or something else?
And that turquoise color you have there is great. Who makes it? (Is it Polylite PLA Teal?)

I used PLA. It's a brand called Inland, but I can't recommend the Light Blue PLA. I don't know if it's the batch or that specific color, but the flow rate was inconsistent. I've had good luck with their PLA before, but this particular roll was really hard to work with.

Thanks for the reply. I have Polymaker Polylite True Gray and Teal and will try it today. I have some ideas for some mods/remix I might make to hold some other interesting stuff if I can find the time. Thanks for the fun model.

If you do any remixes, definitely share them. I'd like to see what other people can come up with.

Out of curiosity, how do you like the Polymaker PLA? I found a store near me that sells it.

Awesome work! I can't seem to find the plate that mounts to the wall in the download.

Looking into it now, and I'm reuploading a couple of parts in the correct orientation. Should be ready in the next 10 or 20 minutes.

Cool man. I will put this on the docket. Will upload my make later this week and link it here. Thanks!

I'm excited to see it. I changed some of the info in the print settings. Essentially, keep the parts oriented as they are in the file, and use supports touching the build plate.

I can't edit my post on the phone, but I will add this info when I get to a computer. Parts with threaded rod print sturdier on their sides using support and 20% infill. In cura, use supports Touching Build Plate