Swordfish cage >> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3029346
Built for the stryfe and RaceStar 3000KV 2205 Brushless motors ONLY ..For more info sit back and relax while you watch the videos :)
Why you should support me on Patreon
Download the wiring and config App from here..
Most ammo has been extensively tested for reliability but FB users and the Below has proven to be the most reliable.
Worker on AliExpress
Nerf Ammo on AliExpress
Worker on Amazon
Nerf Ammo on Amazon
Nerf Blasters on Amazon
FYI you do not need to cut the stryfe to fit the motors in so NO "Motor cover" is required.. Mine has motor covers because previously i was running 180's. This means your blaster can look completely stock if you wish. HOWEVER Since "Gen 2" the end of the Flywheel motor bolts will grind against the inside of the Shell. You can drill the Shell this and cover the holes OR Grind 2mm off the top of the Bolts and thus it wont grind on the Shell. (Watch Gen 2 Video)
Printed on Tronxy X3A 3D Printer
The Licnence you agree to when downloading this thing prevents you from making a profit from MY thing. This means you CAN NOT sell this or any of my other things on places like Ebay, Facebook, Forums or Etsy. You also may Not sell My parts as Part of a complete blaster. I don't profit from putting this thing us as a Free download and therefore no one else should too.
Due to the specific print requirements required to print a successful Ultra cage and Wheels we have now opened a Etsy store. Purchasing from this store you can be assured a HIGH quality product .. Not some cheap disappointing rubbish.
Also a complete drop in kits including the cage and wheels are also available to those who are looking for a simple drop in kit.
Please consider Leaving me a TIP for this Free Nerf Mod ...Thanks
Ultrasonic2 Stryfe Cage Gen x.x.STL
3D Printed Stryfe motor cage (Does not Fit Rapidstrike)
Wheels are now maintained at this link.
Accelerate time setting
BatteryS = 3 ; //2= 2s, 3= 3s, 4 = 4s 5 = 5s
int MotorKV = 3000; // motors KV. enter your kv here
RiseToTime = 0ms for 3s batteries .. 4s 50 to 1000ms MAYBE required.
Optional Trimpot to adjust RPM
int EnablePot =0 ; // 1 = yes 0 = no
int InveretPotDirection = 0; // 1 = yes 0 =no
Electronically Limit RPM / FPS
MaxServo = 1000 = 0% 2000 =100% .. Sugested method would be to chrono the blaster and adjust the knob till you reach your limit. Then connect Arduino to PC and use Serial monitor at 9600 Baud to read the value.. Then set MaxServo to this value then you Blaster will be limited to this RPM / FPS
BLHeli_Noname - EMAX_Ltng_20A - Rev. 14.9 - Multi_171206.ini
BLheli Flash code for EMAX lightning 30amp ESC
Arduino Nano 3.0 With CABLE & Pre-Soldered Pins
UBEC / Buck
NOTE: Diode is not required with the above UBEC
RaceStar 3000KV Brushless Motors (3000KV RECOMENDED)
The cage and Wheels only Fit RaceStar 2300,2600,3000kv Motors and NO other motor will fit .. While there are many different 2205 sized motors out there they will NOT fit the cage and wheels. Because they will have different external dimensions.
To start with it's useful to know that there are 3 Basic kinds of Blhehi ESC's
Though we have previously recommend the Emax lightnings which are "Blheli" these are no longer recommend for a few reasons and now we are recommending " Hobbywing XRotor Micro 30A BLheli_32 DShot1200"
We are recommending Blheli_32 in general because they have significantly less trigger delay than the older BLheli ESC AND they have MUCH faster spinup to a limited RPM ..
We are recommending "Hobbywing XRotor Micro 30A BLheli_32 DShot1200" Specifically because these have been tested to have effectively NO trigger delay at all and therefore are ideal for our use case. Please be aware that there are other "Hobbywing XRotor Micro BLheli_32" Esc's but these have not been tested to have 0 trigger lag. Only the recommended ESC has been proven to have basically no lag.
Can you use what ever esc you want ?
Yes you can and you could say that if you have a stryfe with a manual pusher then you'll be hard pressed to tell a delay of 0.1 of a second and it doesn't matter anyway cos you have to pre pull the rev trigger anyway. HOWEVER if you have a Auto pusher and want the fastest response possible then the recommended ones are currently your best and only option (and only independently verified). IF you do wish to go with some other ESC please ensure it's Blheli_32 not any of the older models
Battery Capacity (1500mah, 1800mah 2200mah...)
The basic rule of thumb is that if you want the fastest spin up possible then you need the biggest battery possible (because of the relationship to "C") even if you don't need the capacity, because bigger batteries can deliver more current .. more current = faster spinup.
Also as the battery discharges the battery voltage will drop and that will have a direct affect on RPM/FPS, So to maintain a similar voltage across your battle you are better off having a large battery and only using a small % of its capacity than having a small battery which is fattened by the end of the battle.
Lastly in general the capacity affects the length of the battery but not its width or thickness. This means that capacity wise you're generally limited by the space you have. If your trying to fit a lipo in that is close to the length the AA's in a stryfe then that is about a 1800-2200mah battery and there is NO point purchasing a lower capacity battery because doing so wont make the battery any slimier and therefore the blaster is not any slimer.
Battery "C" rating
Battery "C" rating is a means of describing how much current a battery can deliver
It is normally described like 50C .. The "C" means capacity so if you have a 50c 1000mah battery that would equal 50amps.. if you had a 50c 2000mah battery that would be 100amps. So generally speaking the higher the C the "Better" the battery. But the trade off is normally the higher the "C" the ticker that battery will be.
Please also be aware that the current pulled from a battery will affect it's capacity so if you have a low C battery and a high C battery of the same capacity the lower C battery will have less capacity and runtime than the higher C battery in the real world (assuming a high current discharge).
Lastly when talking about "C" it is important to make sure you're comparing apples with apples and to be ware some people talk about "Burst C" and others "Constant C".
Battery Voltage (2s 3s 4s 5s)
Historically we have recommended 3s However you can obtain even faster spin up by moving to 4s (which i have done) without increasing the total RPM.
Im not sure how much i should go into this.. but having 3s at 100% throttle which equals 33,300 rpm will take longer to spin up than 4s at 75% throttle which equal the same 33,300rpm.
This is because the extra "un used" voltage can be used to counter the back emf generated by the motors as they turn which creates a "back pressure" preventing them form accelerating at the same torque throughout the hole rev rang (this is all simplified) for unlimited RPM. Having this extra voltage will allow the motors to have a more torque. The benefits of this is most noticeable near the topend of motors RPM and Battery voltage. So if you already have 3s turned down to 30% to stay within your FPS limits then the difference between 3s and 4s maybe hard to tell. However the benefits for a person originally using a 3s at 100% going to a 4s at 75% will be much greater.
For me personally im running in a rather restrictive battle but still chose to use 4s @ 30% then a 3s lipo... But hay thats me :P
Due to some changes to improve blaster compatibility 200FPS might be only achievable on a fully charged 3s so you'll probalby be better off with a 4s @ 80% if thats what you're trying to achieve ...
Please remember that with the Ultra Code and supporting video it is very simple to "Limit" your blasters RPM and therefore FPS to whatever you need and it can also be simply changed later if needed.
You need one Clockwise Motor and One Counter Clockwise. Use thread lock on the M3 bolts, otherwise they may come loose.
Hobbywing XRotor Micro 30A BLheli_32 DShot1200
Two ESC's are required.
ESC BLHeli USB Programmer
This is optional. The ESC's can be programmed using the Arduino. You'll need to google how to do this..
16Volt 220uf Capacitor Required for 4s operation .. not required on 3s.. The simplest thing to do is to solder it directly onto the back of the Arduinos board
ESC signal Y extension
Must be twisted. Straight wires can lead to glitchy operation.(Seriously)
2x 3M 18 Gauge AWG Silicone Rubber Wire Cable
For extending ESC input power (one cable per ESC)
20 AWG Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 20AWG
(Used between the ESC's to Motors)
28AWG Flexible Silicone Wire Cable
Used for connecting everything other than the the motors' / ESC's
This is OPTIONAL (can be used to adjust the max RPM/FPS)
ESC Servo Tester (This will require 5v input voltage.)
This is OPTIONAL (Not actually Required for the mod But useful for testing)
DO NOT power these motors with low cost low frequency ESC's. ONLY power them with high frequency ESC with F396 CPUs @ 48mhz. Otherwise the ESC's will be unable to spin the HIGH pole count motors at the expected speed of 37800 and results will be poorer.
Also ensure the firmware on the ESC is update (very simple to do with the BLHelli app) As improvements in topend rotations have been made ( FYI mine were 3 revisions behind out of the box).
ZOP Power Lipo Battery 11.1V 2200Mah 3S 30C
Lipo Balance Charger iMAX B6 charger + 12v 5A Power Adapter + Charging Cables
Removed gen 2.5 .. I'm a bit sad to see it go :-(
Added Gen 3 with optional barrel
Added pic from
Updated Barrels and guides