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orcusomega

Locking CR10/S4/S5 Bed Leveling Knob

by orcusomega Aug 1, 2017
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Perhaps using an M4 T-Nut at the underside of the bed surface with thread-lock on it instead of a full M4 bolt would reduce the profile enough for it to be less of a problem?

I'm just thinking, how is it possible that this is not standard on this printer... It just changed my life, this is THE mod to do in the first place on the s5, clearly.

I can't figure out the issues described in the comments below. For my printer, I did exactly what "tlhlntoq" explains in his comment below. I used the stock screw through the bed plate, then one metal M4 lock nut just below the bed plate, then the spring, the bed holder plate, then another metal M4 lock nut inside the printed wheel, and yes, the spring is more compressed than before (not bad for me, on the contrary) but not fully compressed.

I tried first without the glass to prevent damage, then could see that it would fit. I screwed to full compression of the spring, fitted the glass back, then adjusted to height.

No need to touch z-stop. No need to recheck the bed level on every print (well, less frequently at least).

Great work, thank you so much !

I am glad you found it useful! The only way I could test out on other printers was if someone sent me one of each lol.

Thank you. One of my knobs with my cr-10 came bent, and this seemed to work well! :)

i'd like to ask you one question if I may. I really like your idea but because you're using m4 nuts on a m3 screw, how will that work?

I'm pretty confident the screws on the CR-10 are m4 as an m4 nut works on them for me. So I guess he meant to put "m4 screws" in the description instead of "any m3 screws".

I don't suppose you could make it a little smaller, Please? about 30mm Diameter?

I understand and appreciate the time you put into the parts. I will sort it all out. The retaining M4 nylock jamnuts are 5mm tall. This raises the plate 5mm above the springs at full compression. Thus the glass surface will be the height of the jamnut (5mm) higher.

5mm is quite a lot. So when the printer seeks the z-stop the print nozzle would crash into the top of the glass even with the adjustmant knobs fully tightened and the springs fully compressed. To give myself room to relax the springs I have to raise the stock z-stop by at lest the height of the jamnut (5mm).

The stock z-stop plate on my cr-10 s4 has no slots and is set at a fixed height. Therefore I will have to print a slotted z-stop mount so I can slide the z-stop switch up 5mm. This should solve the problem. Fortunately I have a friend with a cr-10 and I can have him print me the new adjustable z-stop plate so I do not have to undo everything I have done up to now.

Just a note if your printer comes with a heater cable strain relief be sure to add the jamnut underneath it and not on top as I originally did. This adds 5mm on top of the 8mm strain relief and therefore the screw does not even go the length of the spring. There is a cavity under the strain relief so that the jamnut fits nicelt underneath it and therefor the 40mm screw will extend beyond the spring.

Also for the CR-10 S4 use the medium sized knobs they work perfectly. I sprayed them with plasticdip to make them easier to grip.

This screws up the z-stop! The bed is now 5mm higher after adding the retaining m4 nylock jam nuts. The stock z-stop is now 5mm to low and the nozzle will crash into the glass. I have a CR-10 s4 and the z-stop does now seem to be adjustable.

This 15 minute upgrade has now turned into a 3 hour nightmare. I will have to print a new z-ztop block that is adjustable but cannot do that with out lowering the glass back 5mm so I can level it which means pulling everything apart again, removing the retaining jam nuts, replacing the crappy stock knobs. releveling the bed, and printing a new adjustable z-stop block. Then pulling everything apart again and reinstalling the mod! I am not pleased!

Not sure how you did that - if the bed sits too high, remove the additional nuts added for this mod, print the z-stop, and then re-add the nuts. I put these out to help people, sorry you had issues, but any time to make a change to a printer, you will need to consider what else it may effect. Good luck!

@orcusomega - Well, as the saying goes, "no good deed goes unpunished"!
You try to help people (by providing FREE mods to improve their wretched lives) and if you don't 'hand-hold' them through the entire process and assume they are not complete idiots, you just get complaints! It sometimes makes you wonder if it's worth the bother!
But, regardless of the whinging comments, thank you for taking the time to share. I for one appreciate it (and have a brain so, I haven't damaged the glass!) :o)

I didn't print this item but printed one very close to it and ran into the same clearance issues that have been stated in the comments here. I may have a solution. I'll just post my comments I made on the other item. Hope this helps because the knobs are really a vast improvement. Thanks

I printed these and when I installed them, the lock nuts under the bed that keep the screw from turning also kept the spring from resting against the under side of the bed and took up too much space. Even if I had the knobs tightened all the way and the springs completely compressed, the bed was still to high to allow me to level it. You wouldn't think the height of an M4 lock nut could make that much difference, but it did. I think I may have solved this issue by purchasing 4 new compression springs (Menards - Part #88015). They are bigger in diameter, going over the nuts and resting against the bed. They are also longer but a little weaker than the OEMs so I'm hoping they will be close to the same in the end. Time will tell if they will hold. I have now leveled the bed with the new knobs and springs and they all seem to work great. These knobs are a vast improvement over the tiny knobs it had. I am using a Creality CR10S. Thanks

i ended up having to buy the same spring and have noticed it doesnt push the bed up relevant to where the knob is. i noticed theres a space from the bottom of the bed to the leveling knob im going to put a washer above the knob and see if it works.

CR-10s5 - The 35mm knobs work fine. To be clear, despite what you see in someone's "I made this" photo these are NOT in-addition-to the original knobs. They replace the original knobs: That's why the other guy said the bed screws were too short.
1 - Remove the 4 original knobs completely.
2 - Push the bed screws up and out.
3 - Tilt the bed off to the left (remember there are still wires connecting it)
4 - Put the 4 screws back in
5 - Put on the nylok nuts to secure the screws so they can't turn when you twist the knobs
6 - Put the bed back on the carriage including the springs. My CR10-s5 already used 4 washers each as spacers. Now that the nyloks are in place I only used one washer at the bottom of the spring. So all the spacing remains unchanged.
7 - Insert nylok into the new knobs you just printed. This is why these are locking knobs.I had to press them in with pliers.
8 - Put the new knobs on
9 - Open a fresh Mt. Dew.

I noticed similar problems to what others have expressed the added nylon nut creates clearance problems with a 40mm spring. My glass/faketac and bed look thicker on the CR-10S. I was able to get the zstop to click by applying leverage to tighten all 4 corners to beyond max compression and moving the Zstop to its highest stock position. I think you would only need to remove 1mm somehow from anywhere above the black metal plate or raise your Zstop that distance. I unfortunately got a little zealous trimming my springs and need to wait for new ones before I can try any other fixes.

Was able to get all of them working except the corner with the heat bed brace. I changed to just a nut(non locking) which saved 1.9 mm of space. This works much better and won't move if you torque down the nut. If your worried about it backing out you could use just a very very small drop of blue thread lock. Heat bed side require me using additional leverage to get it low enough to tram the head, but I was able to get .2mm with heated bed, but it took a lot of work.

Why bother with putting the additional M4 lock nuts directly under the bed? Shouldn't the lock nuts within the knobs be sufficient?

If you do not put the lock nut on the bottom of the bed, you will not be able to tighten the springs with the wheel, as the screw will turn when you turn the wheel, and not tighten or loosen, In order to access the top of the screw to hold it in place, you would need to remove the glass, which would then make it not even any more ;)

This doesn't work for me. Both of my printers would need M6 lock nuts and this is designed for M4 lock nuts. Maybe if I use a vice I can press some M6 lock nuts in these.

What version do you have? This is the first time I am hearing this, but changing the nut size would not be hard to do, if you can confirm. I have an CR-10 (non-S), and I have had others with the S4 and S5 test these and they fit - is the larger hardware size something you added, or did it come from the factory that way?

Let me know how I can help!

I just tried all the lock nuts that I have and the only one that screws on to both stock printers is a 8-32 Nylon Insert Lock Nut. I haven't added any larger bolts. They are the stock bolts that go through the aluminum build plate, through stock yellow colored springs, through a black metal plate with rollers, and then the black adjustment 'nuts' that I was planning to replace with these.

Are you somehow confusing metric with US standard?? "8-32" is not a metric thread. Every CR-10 I've seen or read about uses M4 screws. Not M6 and certainly not 8-32.

Good to hear! I don't have an S4 or S5, so I was able to get some measurements from another owner.. Which version did you print so I know it will fit the S4, and I can add it to the description?

Thanks!

35mm fits S4 just perfect. :)

Did I get the wrong lock nut? I can't seem to thread the screw all the way through it, yet the threads are the right size for it to begin to screw on. I also printed the knobs and had to use a vise to get the nut in, though that might just be down to the dimensional accuracy of my prints.

Sounds like a tight nylon washer in the nut maybe?

Did you have to raise the Z-end stop, my springs are compressed all the way and I still don't have space to home Z

I got my CR-10S yesterday, I had to change the spring closest to the corner where the heater wires are. The spring on that corner was 100% compressed and yet, the bed was not low enough. I also had to bend up a little the Z limit switch lever to make it zero at a higher position. I am not comfortable with that, especially because I am a total newbie on 3d printing.

Unless they made the screw shorter? Mine worked fine (picture in the posting)... Can you measure the length of the screw to compare against mine? Mine is 40mm long (from the factory)

Anyone else have a problem that once you put the locknut under the bed, the spring won't compress enough to lower the bed low enough?

Unless they made the screw shorter? Mine worked fine (picture in the posting)... Can you measure the length of the screw to compare against mine? Mine is 40mm long (from the factory)

Comments deleted.

Thanks for the reply.. The screws are plenty long, the problem is the springs rest on the locknut, so you lose that area, and it compresses the spring so much when tightening it just won't go any lower.

What I think I will do tonight is swap out the lock nut under the bed, to a locking washer and regular nut, should be 1/2 the thickness. I really only am a millimeter or two off, so it's really close, but no cigar.

another possible option would be to scale down the Z to minimize the thickness of the wheel between the nut and the bottom of the bed - let me know! I would like to include that information in the description as it seems there are a few differences out in the field

Don't think scaling that down will help, since the main problem is the spring is too tall/long with that lock nut in there. I even use a mirror on my bed. Glass or anything thicker than the 3mm mirror and i would be way off.

Seems like the screw would just spin as you try to tighten or loosen the locknut. Am I missing something?

Like at the pictures and description, you need to add additional nuts to the bottom of the heat bed so that the screws don't rotate

Thank you! I was just about to do a Remix with this Idea, but luckily you have done it already!

I was hoping the locknuts under the bed would fit within the springs. based on your picture, the top part of the spring rests directly below the lock nut... do you notice the spring shifting? I haven't put the locknuts on yet, nor printed this piece.

Genius idea to lock the bolts to the bed - I'm loving that - well done!

Way too big for CR10 S4 - they foul the Y stretchers...

I just added 23mm and 35mm versions that will fit S4 and S5. The 35mm for the S5 closely, I haven't not gotten feedback on the S4 yet, but I believe they are the same

If you can give me the measurements I'll remix it for you :)