T6 / Y6 hexacopter

by Brendan22, published

T6 / Y6 hexacopter by Brendan22 Feb 12, 2014


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

29638Views 3785Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles


Check out the whole "T" copter family:


  • completely 3D printable (without support)
  • simple assembly
  • coaxial design (2 motors per arm) provides redundancy to keep flying in case of an ESC, motor, or prop failure
  • strong braced tube section arms with plenty of room to conceal motor wiring
  • designed for dual (3S) batteries located right in the center of rotation/thrust with room for up to 2 x 6000mah batteries (although 3000mah and some foam padding might be a wiser option)
  • easy cable routing with beveled cable "tunnels" (and even a few cable tie mounts)
  • plenty of space to mount ESCs - concealed but still well ventilated for cooling
  • top plate is designed for the new Pixhawk flight controller from 3D Robotics - but can easily be tweaked for others
  • RF "invisible" frame - as opposed to carbon fiber or aluminium
  • Frame weight is approx 300g. All up weight including 2 x 3S 3000mah batteries and my over-sized 880kv motors is 1,700g.
  • Hover flight time test was 15 minutes and 30 seconds using 5,900mah out of the 2 x 3S nano-tech 3000mah batteries. Another flight was 17.5 minutes, fully loaded (2.34kg) with Tarot T-2D gimbal, GoPro, 1W FPV transmitter and used 9,700mah out of 2 x 3S Multistar 5200mah batteries.
  • Sketchup file included so you can make changes to suit yourself


    I've been experimenting to find a strong "tubular" profile that could be printed reliably. The angled sections in these designs are 35 degrees to vertical - so well within the typical 45 degree capability of most printers. They arms only present about 11mm of flat surface to minimize obstruction to airflow.
    The rest of the design are a collection of ideas that have accumulated over the past year building various quadcopters and Y6 configurations (3D printed, aluminium and bought frames).


  • On-board video
  • Tubular arm versus "conventional" arm design

Revision History

17 July 2014
No version number change but a couple of tweaked files:

  • T6BatteryPeg.stl was lengthened a bit as I realised it was too short for the new 1.02 body :-/
  • T6TarotMount.stl just had a small cosmetic change.
    Don't forget to check out the T copter springy legs for some more leg options including the new "bent" leg specially designed for this copter.
    6 July 2014 - Version 1.02
  • Slightly increased battery compartments size to 157mm long by 50mm wide by 30mm hide. (NOTE: This makes the body 6mm longer than the previous version so body, top plate and bottom tray are NOT COMPATIBLE if you printed version 1.0 parts)
  • rounded off the front and rear corners - purely cosmetic.
    Changed files:
  • T6Body.stl
  • T6BottomTray.stl
  • T6TopPlate.stl

14 Feb 2014

  • created T6BottomTray v2 which features angled sides (looks a lot less boxy) and also bolt and cable holes to attach a Tarot gimbal. Also uploaded some first flight videos!

16 Feb 2014

  • Revised T6BottomTray v2 - moved the cable hole to make it easier to route the cables for the Tarot gimbal.
  • Added T6TarotMount which is a spacer block for attaching the newer plastic Tarot anti-vibration mount to the bottom tray.
  • Added new longer legs with awesome springy feet. These add some clearance below the Tarot gimbal. The feet are a bit "mad scientist" but they seem to work 8-). Here's a quick video of the springy legs.



I printed all parts with 40% infill, 2 shells and 3 top/bottom layers. Feel free to experiment. I didn't play around too much with the settings as these gave me a good strong result.
A quick word about scaling
According to Wikipedia apparently "there is no scale information [in STL files], and the units are arbitrary". There is often confusion with STL files and metric versus imperial (inches) units.
I designed these parts in Sketchup using metric units and they import correctly into my slicer (which is also set to metric). If you have issues, check your application to see if has a way to select metric or alternatively scale down by a factor of 25.4.

What you'll need

  • 3 arms
  • 3 legs
  • 1 body
  • 1 top plate
  • 1 bottom tray
  • 1 GPS post and plate (optional)
    ...and "hardware"...
  • 6 M3 x 40mm+ bolts (arms to body)
  • 6 M3 x 35mm+ bolts (motors to arms)
  • 12 3mm Nyloc nuts
  • approx 3mm x 10mm self-tapping screws (attach top plate and bottom tray)
  • some foam for padding the battery compartments. I ended up using self adhesive window draft-stop tape from my local DIY store.
  • double sided adhesive foam tape (for mounting electronics)
  • some cable ties
  • soldering gear and connectors to suit your electrical bits
    ...and stuff to make it fly...
  • 6 motors (I had some 880KV ones lying around)
  • 3 normal propellers and 3 pusher propellers (10 x 4.7 slowfly)
  • 6 20A+ ESC (speed controllers)
  • 1 power distribution assembly
  • 1 3DR power module (or BEC)
  • 2 3S batteries (eg 3000mah)
  • 1 3DR Pixhawk (or other flight controller)
  • 1 Radio control receiver (and transmitter)
  • 1 3DR GPS/compass (optional)
  • 2 3DR telemetry radios (optional)
    If your new to RC copters then the ArduCopter wiki is a great place to find out everything you need know.
    I configured the wiring and firmware to use the new "Y6B" configuration shown here.

More from R/C Vehicles

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

I may just be slow but I'm not seeing the file for the gps post. Am I missing something?

I think you're right. You can use the ones from the T4 here... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261145/#files

T4 Quadcopter Drone


I don't think I'd be brave enough to use 3D printed propellers - although I see there is at least one design on Thingiverse. 3D printed thing spinning at 10,000 rpm - I don't think so :-)

Do you know roughly how much it cost?

About 300g of plastic so roughly $12 - $15 for the frame ...and then it depends on what you want to use to make it fly, FPV, radio control gear etc. For mid-range components you might use something comparable to the 3DR Y6. RTF version is about $1,100 US http://store.3drobotics.com/products/3dr-rtf-y6-2014

Comments deleted.

That looks great Brendan!
Gonna have to try to build this one too.

Thanks. It's amazing the difference a reprint in "family colours" makes. Black just didn't make for good photos.

What configuration are you using on the adrupilot Y6B or Y6A? I can't seem to get it to take off level.

I've been using Y6B.

Did you start off with 3DRs RTF Y6's PIDs?

Hmmm... I read off the help setup several times, all seems to be correct. Still using 3S batteries?

She flies yay!! Honestly, I think my whole issue was that I am used to smooth take take offs with the quad maybe even bounce around a bit when testing. The Y6 six you need to just give it a ton of throttle and let it fly. Very stable...more than the quad I would say but my 2 min flight does show much yet.

Great news! Thanks for the update.

Yep, 3S batteries. My T6 is actually is pieces at the moment (pinched the pixhawk for another project) but the PIDs I saved before pulling it apart were:
Rate Pitch P: 0.08
Rate Pitch I: 0.08
Rate Pitch D: 0.0085
Rate Roll P: 0.08
Rate Roll I: 0.085
Rate Roll D: 0.007
Stab P: 4
That may help although I was using 880kv motors.

Yea, the default PIDs for a Y6 arent to far off from that. Do the 880kv give that much more thrust? I do notice that 3DR is running 4S batteries with the 850kv motors on their RTF. I do have some 4S batteries laying around.

I was looking at your battery compartment demensions and it has 150mm length. Is that max or could I possible over hang about 10 to 13mm?

150mm will fit inside the battery peg. 157mm will still be inside the body. Anything beyond that will hang out but that shouldn't be a problem as long as you can rig up something to stop the batteries falling out.

I would love to shove as much battery into this setup and trying to make a decision since ordering batteries from hobbyking takes a good week.

Are you flying much with your Y6 setup?

I pinched the motors of this to develop the T4 - but I've just (this past weekend) rebuilt my T4 with 850kv motors so I've freed up the 880kv ones to go back into my T6 (perhaps this coming weekend).
But in answer to your question ...no I never get enough time to fly. The T6 is my favourite though (due the redundancy) but the T4 gets about 10 times the amount of attention on Thingiverse.

I was thinking about switching up for an application that will need redundancy. I am going to try PLA this time instead of ABS. It will be about two week before its built.

Another flight test. This time the T6 was constantly flying forward (around in loops) and amazingly achieved pretty much the same flight time as hover (15.5 minutes) on the same 2 x 3S 3,000mah batteries. I'm very happy with this as coaxial 6 configurations are not known for their economy.