Someone commented that the Rambo Mini is a little off. Since I do not have a Rambo Mini to check this, someone else will have to tell me the correct dimensions to change this to.
I updated the openscad file to have a 1.5mm base under the electronics board. It seemed like a better idea to give more protection to the electronics underneath rather than saving a little plastic. The module I added to the openscad code is Bottom_Flat() for those interested in that.
I added a vented top option for passive heat release. DD_2_TopPlateFullVented_Rev140.stl or DD_4_TopPlateFullVented_Rev140.stl
I also updated the solid top plate version to have less plastic in the middle to cut down on print time. DD_2_TopPlateFullSolid_Rev140.stl or DD_4_TopPlateFullSolid_Rev140.stl
I am working on another remix to attach the raspberry Pi to the Back or Top along with the Arduino or Rambo and the LCD2004 or LCD Graphics. I am changing the front plate angle from 60 to 75 degrees to give more room on the top plate for the Pi. I also have to add a little to the height & width for a better fit. The raspberry Pi combo can now be found: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2525426
I made some major changes to the openscad file to be able to adjust the angle of the Face plate. You can now adjust that in the customizer from 45 degrees to 90. If you make any changes to the code, you will have to create new STL files of affected parts. I also added a couple of images showing how the variables work for the faceplate cutouts & the electronics mount.
I changed the openscad source so it will now work with thingiverse Customizer. That should make it a lot easier for others to use that are not familiar with openscad. I have deleted all of the previous versions of the files.
There are quite a few variables you can adjust. Before you get carried away & print all the parts, I would 1st print:
DD types have dovetail backs & the DS types have holes for mounting to frame like a Delta printer.
The brackets have the female dovetail joints that do not change, so you will not have to reprint the left bracket if the joints are too loose or too tight.
If the dovetail joints are too tight, try the DD_4. This is a test print of the Left bracket & all the joints that connect to it. You should only need to print the left bracket once since those joints do not change, only the joints that connect to them. If you have to print a 2nd test print, You can also use the left bracket you printed for your final parts.
DD_2_TestPrints_Rev138.stl .25mm tolerance
DD_4_TestPrints_Rev138.stl .4mm tolerance
Since I do not have a Rambo Mini or the graphics controller yet, this has not been completely tested yet. I tested the 2004 LCD with one I have & it lines up good. Someone tested the lining up of the graphics faceplate. The only problem reported was access to the SD card was difficult. I made that opening with an oval cutout which should make it easier now.
This project started out as a way to take the electronics from underneath my Folgertech Delta printer to mount on the outside like I was doing with just the display. When someone https://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/mini-rambo-case/#post-39961 asked about a case for the Rambo Mini with Graphics LCD, I decided to make this project more adaptable.
This can be used with either the Arduino mega or the Rambo Mini and the Graphics LCD controller. Here is the controller this was sized for: https://shop.vicious1.com/products/full-graphic-smart-controller-big . You could also use this with other electronics that use this display if you make a base plate to mount it on.
Most of the parts use dovetail joints instead of screws. In the openscad files, you can adjust the clearance of the dovetail joints to .15, .2, .25, .3 or .4. That is the total clearance of the joints, so for .2mm it is .1mm on each of the joint. The stl files I have included us .25mm clearance. You could also add some text to that blank spot on the faceplate. There are example settings for this setup in the openscad file. There is also a test print for the face plates for checking the hole pattern if you are not sure whether your controller is this size. I have checked the 2004 LCD with one I have & it fits & someone else has checked the Graphics LCD. The only problem I heard with the Graphics LCD is the SD card was difficult to get out. I have made that hole larger with an oval outer cutout which might make it easier now.
That file for the LCD2004: TestPrint_LCD2004FacePlate_Rev138.stl
That file for the Graphics controller:TestPrint_GraphicsLCD_FacePlate_Rev138.stl
The holes for that I sized to use the electrical endcaps in this thingiverse design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:978384
I took this Full Graphic Smart Controller case & overlaid it on my design to get the SD card cutout. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1562144
If you are happy with the test print, the parts you want to print for a stand alone case are:
LCD2004FacePlate_Rev138.stl or GraphicsFacePlate_Rev138.stl
LCD 2004 End Caps
or Graphics LCD End Caps
The electronics base plates are only 2mm thick, but adjustable to 4.5mm with openscad file.
For the Arduino electronics print:
For the Rambo Mini electronics print:
If you are going to mount this case to the side of delta printer like the Folgertech or to a piece of wood, you will have to print the different brackets & back plate:
The back plate might be difficult to use in this configuration, but included it.
There are a lot of parts to keep straight here. Most of the variables in the openscad files are documented. If I have missed something or can explain anything better, just leave a comment.