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swholmstead

Telsa Phone Charger NO SUPPORTS REQ'D

by swholmstead Aug 8, 2017
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After struggling for several hours to get the red letters to fit I gave up. Nice idea thought.

The Gray parts don't fit.. The 2 "tabs" on base part is too small, and the side holes in base for the 2 poles are too big.. Any suggestions?

I'm sorry that you are having problems. I designed these parts with "typical" tolerances, but everyone's 3D printer is different. It could be that your printer is under-extruding a little, or your belts are getting worn out and are stretched more than they were originally, or any number of other things.

The easiest way to solve for variations is in your slicer. Many slicers have an option "Horizontal size compensation" that is typically 0.00mm. Changing this to 0.1mm will make all of your horizontal exterior walls 0.1mm thicker but does not change any of the other dimensions. If holes are too big or tabs are too small, this is a quick fix for that. Try changing this in your slicer and reprinting just the gray base piece. You might need to go as high as 0.2mm, but most likely not.

Let me know if that works.

Thanks for sharing the solid files! I needed to scale it down a bit, but keep the wire stuff large enough. Got a few tesla owners who will love one!

It might be very difficult to scale down. The side channel where the charger cable runs is already very tight. I guess you could open it on the inside where it will be covered by the center red piece, but then it would require supports. You could reduce the Z height with scaling options in your slicer. That might help.

I know, I've printed one of the other models a while ago, although will print all parts flat on the bed - found the logo came out cleaner like that, and less work to smooth the white sides. Shrinking it down to fit 120x120x120 also meant the cable had to come down on the opposite side it came up, otherwise it was "too tight" a bend for the USB C cables we tried (i.e. they kinked permanently) but room to go over behind the logo with some dremel adjustment :)

Very nice model but I think the tolerances should have been vider. Better to add a tiny blob of glue than working with multiple prints in different scalings and extrutions to get a fit. Many will loose interest I think.

Comments deleted.

For a standard, iPhone 6 charging chord, what are the correct files to print?

You want to make all the parts listed first that don't mention USB-C or Micro-USB:

  • White_Side_1
  • White_Side_2
  • Gray_Pole_2_ea (qty 2)
  • Gray_Cap
  • Gray_Base
  • Red_Center
  • Red_Tesla_Letters (qty 2)

Hi - I'm trying to figure out the right combination of parts to use a Apple USB-C to Lightning cable. Why use this cable? It's the only way to Fast-Charge an iPhone X (see https://www.macrumors.com/guide/iphone-x-fast-charging-speeds-compared/).

This Apple Official USB-C to Lightning cable (https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MKQ42AM/A/usb-c-to-lightning-cable-2-m) has these dimensions, as measured by my calipers

  • 3.5mm diameter (I measured 3.34 to 3.4mm with my calipers)
  • 4.5mm diameter strain relief which is 10mm long (Which I don't think matters for this part, but including for completeness)
  • Lightning connector End which is 5.5mm by ~9.15mm and 14.5mm [just the plastic part, not including connector tip]

Do you think a combination of parts would work for this cable? Or would a custom version need to be made?

From my best guesses so far, I would need
Sides -> USB-C Version
Gray Base -> USB-C Version

I think the most difficult from looking at the parts could be the red center piece, which needs a lightning socket, but is not big/thick enough?

It all depends on the end of the cable that plugs into your phone. Since it is a lightning connector, then the standard parts are the ones that you need. It doesn't matter what is on the other end of the cable.

Okay Great - thanks for advising - Just started printing it with standard parts and will report back as to how it all worked out! Wasn't sure because this specific apple cable is thicker (3.5mm vs 3.0mm) than a standard apple lightning cable. Even then, should be close enough to fit.

The only STL that is impacted by cable thickness is White_Side_2. The standard White_Side_2 has gap for 3 mm cable and both the Micro USB and USB-C versions have a gap for 3.5 mm cable.

So print the standard versions of everything except use White_Side_2_Micro-USB.stl

This one was a challenge.. but it looks awesome now that it's complete.
I had to resize the fitting for the USB-C plug in the center red piece. Even though I used the parts labeled USB-C, the hole was too large for the metal connector part and too small for the plastic connector housing.. so I resized the hole to friction fit just the metal part of the connector as that is a standard dimension from one (usb-C) cable to the next. I also had to enlarge the pass through holes in both the gray base and the red center to allow the USB-C connector to pass through those holes without having to carve on them. I think my cable has a larger than average connector housing plastic. I was able to hammer in the letter using a putty knife as a buffer laying flat on the letter and smacking it from above to apply even force and not ding up my letters. My wife saw this and now it's hers and I'm building another one for me. Oh and I ended up having to use full supports as my printer couldn't handle bridging the slots in the bottom ends of the white and had problems with the thin radius shoulder bottoms where the gray pillars insert.

Hi, I tried making this but when i tried to fit the wire in through the hole of the center round piece that goes in the middle of the supercharger but the wire wouldn't fir through the big hole so i could bring it outside and loop it around. Can you please remodel the piece so i can fit my wire through.
-note: I printed the micro usb version.

That hole will fit micro-usb connectors up to 8 mm x 11 mm (outer dimensions) in size. How big is the connector that you are trying to use? It must be quite large.

Mine is a 12mm x 6 mm. My teacher is also having the same problem with it not going in and I am pretty sure we both are using the same sized connectors.

So do you have the same problem on the Gray Base? It has the same size hole as the Red Center. I made new versions of both with 8 mm x 13 mm openings.

Just checked the grey base, yes it has the same problem. Thanks so much for reaching back out to me and making new versions.

DONT WASTE YOUR TIME ON THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TIME TO KILL AND JUST HAVE TO DO IT.

I have 45+ hours into this thing scaling pieces to fit together well and look pretty. Printing the white pieces flat at .1 looks kind of rough due to the arc in the piece. Getting the letters to fit is an absolute nightmare. I had to use a razor blade to try and remove tiny bits of excess material to get them to fit. I scaled letters to 98% but then the S isnt big enough to make it around the two hooks of the s. I tried lowering extrusion width to make the letters thinner but keep scale and that didnt work so well. I could have possibly started first layer a little higher to keep the bottom layer same as top but I was already pretty high off the bed and wasnt confident that I could get adhesion. I could keep messing with this but I am totally over it. I also had to cut down the base tabs that come up into the white pieces to get them to sit flush on the base, this was after scaling white pieces to be (taller) in order to leave more room and scaled base to be shorter to try and prevent that from happening.
ONLY ATTEMPT IF YOUR PRINTER IS PERFECTLY CALIBRATED IN ALL AXISES AND I MEAN PERFECTLY AND YOUR SETTINGS AND PERFECT. NO OVER EXTRUSION OR UNDER EXTRUSION.

lol your clueless and slightly stupid

Comments deleted.

How do you assemble it

  1. Insert the red center piece into the white side piece with the cord channel
  2. Push the cord through the hole in the gray base
  3. Push the cord through the hold in the red center
  4. Adjust the length of exposed cord in the middle and then push the cord into the channel in the white side piece
  5. Cover with the other white side piece
  6. Push the 2 gray columns into the gray base
  7. Slide the gray base assembly up into the top assembly
  8. Push the cord out the side channel on the bottom and cover with the final gray base piece

After some drilling, hammering and filing, I managed to shoehorn a thick cord into the Tesla supercharger thing! I used the custom side 2, 85% flow rate (I recommend 80%), default scaling, a Lulzbot Mini and a Motorola Turbopower 30 watt charger. The red pieces (letters and center) had to be hammered in.

Next time I will probably use the 1.13 scaling and 80% flow rate if I want to make another one

Hello, I printed the USB Type C white pieces at 1.13 times the size, almost as big as my Lulzbot Mini can build them. I managed to fit the cord of a Motorola Turbopower 15 watt charger in it, although very tightly, without filing. However, I cannot fit the cord of a Motorola Turbopower 30 watt charger in it, as the cord is 4mm thick. Can you make a version that can fit 3.6mm thick cords so that it turns into one 4mm channel when scaled up 1.13 times? Or actually, to accommodate for the Mini's extra thickness of prints, make it 4mm to begin with (or as wide as possible) and make the tight u-turn into something like this http://www.scottpages.net/ReversingLoops.png ?

On another note, I have some Aukey USB Type C data cords which have nine or ten pins plus shielding, and they are a hair thicker than the Turbopower 30 cord (still 4mm technically). I do not plan to put these in immediately, as for some reason my phone needs a USB 2.0 bottleneck in order to connect to my computer.

Thanks in advance

I uploaded White_Side_2_USB-C_Custom.stl that has a 4mm cable channel with a wider loop. The 4mm cable channel creates an area that now requires supports for printers that don't perform well on long bridging. My goal was to not require any supports so I marked this model as "custom".

Hello,

I printed the thing at regular size, and I still had to drill to fit the thicker cord. I can solve this on my own with a print at 1.13 times the size and maybe 80% flow rate. At 85%, I still has to use a hammer to get the letters in the slots from a Lulzbot Mini

Thanks! That is exactly what I asked for! My Lulzbot Mini does better on long bridge in, as I saw while printing the Minecraft village I posted to Thingiverse on this account

In the meantime, I can use a handheld drill to widen the bore for the cord.

I couldn't get the TESLA letters to fit into the frame. Probably a noob question, but how do i fix this? every other time i try printing something that is supposed to fit, it doesn't work any suggestions?
(I use Lulzbot Cura with my Lulzbot Mini)

I have a Lulzbot Mini as well, except I have a Raspberry Pi 3 with Octoprint OS installed to act as a local server to control the printer. I find that when printing parts made to fit together, I have to file them to get them to fit.

Also, I was printing some remote holders and some risers to put inside them. I was using a Lulzbot Mini, Cura for splicing and Octoprint to execute the .gcodes. I made the remote slots 40mm deep and the risers 39mm long. Still, the things do not need any glue and stay inside on their own, even when turned upside down.

On almost every model I hear that some people say the parts are too tight and other say they are too loose. They are built on a geometric model with exact precision with built in room to allow for typical tolerances. Printing introduces wide variations of tolerances.

The tolerances are different for everyone's printers. Try printing just the letters are 98% scaling. The letters are designed to be a very snug fit. You may need to use a hammer to "motivate" the letters into place.

I tried printing the letters at 98% (technically 97.35%) and they still don't fit. I tried widening the letter spaces with a drill, but it ended up making a mess inside the letter slots.

Try printing the letters with Horizontal Size Compensation = -0.05mm. Adjust the compensation until they fit.

There is no horizontal size compensation in Cura Lulzbot Edition. However, I did print this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2301071 at 85% flow rate and the .6mm gap slid right though, with a few gaps visible in .1mm. I will attempt to print the custom one at 85% flow rate tomorrow

Tolerance test
by dscvejl

I am printing the tolerance guide. I am interested to know what my printer can do. I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 clone.

I printed the tolerance guide on my Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 with layer height 0.28mm and the 0.3 - 0.6mm pieces just slid right out. The 0.2mm came out with some assistance. The 0.1mm isn't going anywhere.

in the picture, it looks like yours fits fine. what scale and/or settings did you print them at?

I printed everything at 100% scaling. But I have spent many, many hours calibrating and tuning my 3D printer so that prints come out exactly as expected. Calibrating e-steps, x/y calibrations, perfect bed leveling, acceleration/jerk tuning, as well as other slicer tuning was required.

I don't expect that everyone's printer is configured this way nor do people even have the desire to spend this much time on their printers. I was just hoping to provide a couple quick adjustments so that you can make this print successful.

Here are a couple things you can try:

  • Adjust Horizontal size compensation (can add/remove horizontal width across entire part)
  • Reduce size (e.g. 98% scaling)
  • Reduce extrusion multiplier (extruder puts out thinner strand of filament)

Maybe one of those can help.

Hi again :)

I got some problems with the files..

Could you maybe wide the "bores" für the micro usb connector (the bores at the silver bottom and the red center)?
My connector would not fit through them.. This was no big problem at the red center, i you cutted it with a knife.. but at the silver bottom there is much more material - impossible to easily cut..

Measures of the connector:
7mm x 10mm

Also the channel for the cable could be a little bit bigger.. One cable (specially buyed for this print) wont fit and another slimmer cable only fits with a lot of force..

Thanks for your help!

P.S. Got the same problem at the bores with the USB-C connector

Okay. I created USB-C and micro-USB parts that have connector head openings of 8 mm x 11 mm and cable diameters of 3.5 mm.

The lightning connector head openings are 7 mm x 10 mm and cable diameter of 3.0 mm.

Let me know if these are not sufficient.

Any chance of posting the source files for this model? stls are fine for printing and all, but I would really like to make some modifications.

The models were made in Fusion 360 but I don't think that is a very common file format. So I uploaded the source models in .f3d and .step format.

Thanks! The pieces are all a bit loose on my printer, so it will be nice to be able to mess around with the tolerances a bit.

I know everyone's printer has different tolerances. You might just try to modify the Horizontal Size Compensation in your slicer. That can tighten/loosen up the tolerances without having to spend hours tweaking the models. If they are too loose, then set Horizontal Size Compensation to +0.05 and it should be much tighter.

Many thanks for this great design!

Could cou maybe change the hole for the connector, so that the micro USB and USB-C will fit?
I need both.. USB-C for me and micro usb for my girlfriend (she loves tesla cars).

If you need any measurings I will writem on Monday.. I have no slide gauge here at the moment..

Regards :)

I asked my friend google and they said USB-C is 8.3mm x 2.5mm and micro-USB is 6.83mm x 1.78mm. The iPhone lightning connector (6.7mm x 1.5mm) is practically the same dimensions as the micro-USB, so it should work as is with no changes.

I just uploaded a red center piece for USB-C.

Thank you very much! :)

I`ll upload a "made" as soon as I am done ;)

What a beautiful build! Made one for a Tesla-loving friend's birthday.

Nice work! Just a quick heads up, I did figure out who the original designer was after posting my model. It is listed in the comments on the other item, but just for reference, it came from https://www.mysupercharger.net

Thanks for the information. I added that reference to the main details section.