E3D v4 & v5 & v6 liquid cooling mod

by jkoljo, published

E3D v4 & v5 & v6 liquid cooling mod by jkoljo Feb 12, 2014


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I have been using E3D hot ends (dual) for a while. E3D hot ends are top notch, but they use fans, which sometimes cause warping or delamination especially when printing ABS. Converting to liquid cooling addresses the problem and also makes the hot end a bit shorter.

The 2.5 mm wide cut feature in the top part can be removed if your extruder design allows it. My release of the i3ext works fine with the cut feature removed.


The design is only for the top part of E3D hot end. Heat break, heat block and nozzle are original, buy them from e3d-online.com website.

Then buy a water cooling sleeve from eBay for example. It is intended for R/C use, and for 20 mm motors.

Assemble using the instructions from E3D website.

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Dec 30, 2015 - Modified Dec 30, 2015

I am wondering however, how does the o-ring / gasket on the hot side hold out when printing at (very) high temperatures (as it has direct contact)? Did you try at say 500°C? Is the surrounding water enough to keep the o-ring cool enough?

Viton o-rings are rated until 400°C, but from experience I know they work at a much broader temperature range.

The temperature of the cooling unit stays near water temperature, it is not a problem at all

Great! I realize now that the o-ring is indeed after the heatbreak...

Could you share your FEM simulations? I am thinking about changing the design of the heatbreak (decrease it's thermal resistance) and increasing the heater power to have better dynamical performance. Eg. allow rapid cooling down of the nozzle to prevent oozing in a multi-nozzle setup.

Yes that is correct, the o-ring is at the cold side. Sorry but I do not have the simulations any more. They were done with SolidWorks 2014 simulation add-on. Your idea sounds very interesting, good luck and please share the results!

Personally I have been printing with a e3d v6 since day one ! now with countless of roles passed from everything from polycarbonate to pla and everything in between I, see no reason for this design ! why tinker with something that works fantastical with out issues, besides adding liquid cooling to already busy printers just adds to one more thing that could go wrong when we don't need it at all just by buying a e3d v6 stock .

Primary reason why this is interesting would be to use it inside a heated chamber.

That's it. This is the main reason I am looking at this design - to be used in heated chamber for ABS printing.

Omg the lack of intellect on some of these comments.... Jesus why would u buy a printer if you don't understand thermodynamics or at least something about engineering or perhaps modeling skill.... I feel like they need to have a license just to own one. Education required.... Seriously some of you are making them look really bad with shitty prints and questions like that when we get perfect, flawless prints from knowing how to use the machine and the underlying thermodynamic concepts behind it, as well as modeling techniques for the process. This isn't a toy guys, its for a well studied artist or engineer. If you have to ask questions like that, its not for you. But you know, its your money..... Also, the E3D is a hotend, this is not an E3d, this is the cooler for it. Yes E3ds are reliable, they are regarded as THE extruder to buy, but beware licensing issues, as if you plan to sell them FOR an E3D, its going to be a lawsuit. I would have cleared with them before labeling it as such. Sorry to be a downer but the community is being flooded with "me too" jokers who put a burden on us as a whole. We aren't your school, get off ur butt and go learn or at least youtube before asking such arbitrary questions.... UUghhh pulling hair out

How is the reliability of the hot end with PLA when water cooled? Better, Worse, Same?


I have never gotten a jam with this hotend, so it is very reliable. But keep in mind that E3D is pretty reliable out of the box, too.

Excuse me, but I don't understand how to convert the 'top part of E3D hot end' (the heatsink, I think) in the piece of photos.
Can you explain this better?

You should not convert the existing heatsink, but make a new one with a lathe.

Ok. Now it's clear. Thanks.

Are you planning to sell this piece?
I'm interested in a 3mm filament version.

In theory, yes. But I respect Sanjay's choice of licences, which prohibit modification and commercial use. I am not 100% sure whether the licence still applies as I very much redesigned the heatsink completely..

The license still applies. However it might be worth contacting him and asking him if he agrees with you selling the new turned heatsink. There is a good chance he will accept in my opinion.
PS: thumbs up for respecting licenses and other people work. Rare thing nowadays :)

Cool. Does it even need to be that long with liquid cooling?

Thanks :) According to my simulations, it could be even smaller. However, I could not find a suitable water cooling sleeve, and I did not want to make one myself. 20 mm was the smallest I found. If you have something to recommend, I will modify the design.

Gotcha I missed that it was a pre-made sleeve. Where did you find the sleeve at?

Check the instructions, I bought it from eBay. Just search for 20 mm motor jacket, for example.

Could explain your simulation? I want to learn how to simulate too.

I used SolidWorks to make this design. It has simulation tools, called SolidWorks Simulation. You can find quite a lot of interesting YouTube videos about it :)