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I3 rework upgrades and improvements

by djvdpant, published

I3 rework upgrades and improvements by djvdpant Feb 12, 2014

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Summary

These parts are for the I3 Rework by eMotion Tech. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616

UPDATE 4-9-2015:
I added all my other improvents that I have designed since I uploaded the first 2.

I liked the look of their design. But after putting it together there were 2 things I wanted to improve.

First. My stepper motors were a bit on the big end of the tolerated size (42.3mm wide) This caused an alignment error in the z axis of the M5 threaded rod and the x ends. I increased the room around the motor. Also I added a ridge to align the motor mount with the frame.

Second. I really liked the idea by ffleurey to protect the z-axis smooth rods against the x belt tension. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:160636

Update 12-3-2014 :
3 Upgraded the Y tensioner for 624zz bearings. It is retrofittable without removing any threaded bars.Just cut off the old tensioner.
4 Made a few modifications to the x idler tensioner to prevent alignment problems.

UPDATE 4-9-2015
5: I designed and tested a pulley with barreled shape for the belts. It centers the belt automatically so it does not rub the sides of the pulley.

6: I designed a holder to mount the original Rework extruder as a bowden extruder.

7: I added braces to the frame. They can be assembled without modifiing the original parts.

8 I added brackets to mount the megatronics V2 box

9 I replaced M5 nuts in x axis ends by long M5 connector nuts to smooth possible errors in M5 thread.

10 I placed the whole printer in a IKEA STUVA cupboard. Works perfectly for ABS printing in "heated"chamber.
http://www.ikea.com/nl/nl/catalog/products/S69873735/

I designed the parts in Freecad. http://www.freecadweb.org/

Instructions

All parts are printable without supports. Use "brim" to keep them flat except on the pulley halves.

The holder for the x pulley accepts either 2 624bearings clamped together or 1 624 bearing with 2 pulley halves glued to it and 2 bushings.

To mount the bottom brace: remove the rear top M10 nuts and replace it with an M10 connector nut of +/-30mm long. This way you do not have to dissasemble and replace the M10 rod. that holds your motor.

Some other parts I used to improve my I3 are:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:605329
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:91398
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22830
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:164679
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:313172
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19997
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:418561

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I'm looking to move my extruder motor off to the side like you have here. What spool bracket did you use for this? Can't tell if its one of the files here or someone else's.

It is in the pictures but i cant find the sourcefiles anymore. Mayby you try a similar one like this.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40250
It is adjustable in width. Which is practical is you have more than one size of filament rolls.

Adjustable Filament Holder (which may also be used as pulleys)

Hi. Thanks for share. Do you have some pictures of parts you have printed after installing these parts? I'd like to see the quality. Thaks!

Hi thanks for the interest.
For pics of prints. Have a look at my 3D hub.
https://www.3dhubs.com/den-haag/hubs/r2dd2

I am satisfied with the machine performance at 40mm/s and 2500mm/sec^2. However there is still something to be improved on filament side. Consistent extrusion is what really makes your parts look great.

Jan 4, 2016 - Modified Jan 4, 2016

Hi, your work is very great, congratulations.
I need to know how do you install de "y stability brace", because i broke one of this.
Thank you

Hi thanks for the compliment. Sorry to hear it broke. It is no real surprise because it is a really tight fit on my machine. Please measure the broken piece and your frame. If they are not the same size where they connect then scale up by a few percent in your slicer to make the fit a bit more loose. Then reprint. Also i advise to use ABS and a heated bed. ABS so it is more flexible. Heated bed to keep it straight. Good luck!

Offcourse that i measure my frame (it have 39 mm), so I modify this in solidworks to reduce 1 mm, but in the next print i leave the piece with .2 or .4 mm more. And yeah i use ABS with heated bed. Any other suggestion, please tell me

Please upload some pics into an "I made one" so I understand what your problem is.

thank you, but i solved the problem modifying a little the measures, it is really tigh on my frame and works perfectly.

Also what is the Y tensioner for?

The y tensioner is to fit the smaller 624 bearings instead of the standard big 628 bearing. This makes the belt run more parallel

What all screws are required for this?

Aug 15, 2015 - Modified Aug 15, 2015
djvdpant - in reply to thehebs

3 Metric m4 screws and nuts and a long m3 screw and nut. Around 20 to 30mm

Please, you can make X-END-MOTOR for m6 studs and nuts , or where i can find a model for editing ?

Hi Mobsman,

Sorry, but I cannot help you by modeling this part for you. Hopefully you can do the same as I did when I made the remix of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616 . I also could not find any files that I could edit. I used Freecad to import the STLs, copy them as parametric model and then modify them. I suggest you give it a try. Freecad really is not that hard to use.

Prusa i3 Rework

Hi!
I must say this is a superb upgrade! But, assembling all parts in Blender I've noticed a missalingnement between the X-Motor and this X-Idler-Tensioner. Please see this image --> http://imgur.com/kzskozN

Are you using the original X-End motor from the Rework/EiNSTEiN ?

Hi ePoxi,
Glad that you like it. I am indeed using the original x-end motor from Rework Einstein. I have not noticed the alignment problem in practice. My prints are perfectly square. In the picture you cannot see the distance between the horizontal bars and the vertical bars. Could you check if there is a difference there? As I see it now it is just a difference in wall thickness which has no influence. But still I I going to look into it. I'll get back to you if I find a problem.

Is it okay if I use a 625ZZ bearing instead of a 624 one? I've only got 625s and REALLY hate to go a long way just to get a 624 :P

I see you removed the holder for the x-endstop from the x-idler. What are you using for the x-endstop instead?

Hi Greg,
I'm using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:71538
It was supposed to be a temp solution but it works nicely and was very easy to print and install. Be careful though, the z-axis stop loses its adjustment easy when you accidentally push it.

Prusa i3 z-height regulator
by obijuan
Jul 26, 2014 - Modified Jul 26, 2014
gadgetgreg - in reply to djvdpant

I'm using this for my z-endstop http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:223765, it works great and is very stable! What are you using for your x-endstop? I've read that you should keep it on the end away from the motor...

Prusa Mendel i3 Z endstop Tuner

I don't get the instructions.
"The holder for the x pulley accepts either 2 624bearings clamped
together or 1 624 bearing with 2 pulley halves glued to it and 2
bushings."
That last part especially about glue on a bearing?

Hi DA,
I'm sorry for the misunderstanding. I was trying to be brief. The glue goes only on the most outer surface of the bearing. So the z624_pully halves stick to it and each other. The bushings act as spacers. Btw I found out that both variants are not completely interchangeble in my idlers. X ideler has optimum size for 2 z624 bearings. The Y-idler is optimized for 1 z624 bearing with 2 pulley halves and 2 bushings. Will fix this in next update.
Does that clear up your question?

I do have a question and that is our belts are belts with teeth and are not flat (like my GT-2) so how does that effect tracking and a toothed belt is expecting flat toothed pulleys on both sides and up pops a curved surface that tells me the belt shouldn't like that (in more ways than one). So, you say it tracks well (like the Broccoli rubber band in the video) but wouldn't that finally deform the belt so it would bow since it is much stiffer than a flat elastic band?

Cool Links, I will have to check if my dimensions follow the guidelines
of the first link. But i think they do with 0,5mm height difference. Because
the height difference between edge and middle is pretty small, I think that the
rubber teeth will easily deform elastically and the load on the fibres in the
belt is pretty well distributed.
Second I believe
the reason people normally do not use it for toothed belts is: that this geometry in a toothed pully is to expensive to produce. (not for a 3D printer
though!) i guess the disadvantage of a bit of rubbing on the flanges of the
pulleys is acceptable. Oh and another reasen for not using crowned pulleys is
that in a lot of applications people are transfering rotation from one axis to another and not
liniarly moving stuff like we do. Then you need the teeth for the torque.

I did read that crowned pulleys are not to be used with belts with metal in them or any fibers in them.

Yes, much clearer now but you are saying that I have to use 2 z624 bearings for my X eliminating the 2 pulley halves?

Yes it is a small design error. The fit in the width is better with 2 z624 bearings. But then the belt rubs on the side of the holder... :-( So using pulley halves and one bearing is better. But for that you have to make the idler a bit wider to make it fit nicely.
I will upload revised files soon. Or maybe you can help by uploading your own remix. Its not very hard in Freecad wich is free (Duh)

Would but can't because my printer is down waiting for some parts from China. I will say I am a tad ticked at the rework's Y axis because that has to be the biggest pain in the rear I have messed with in a long while because of the issue with the belt not staying put. I am used to belts, like on cars, not rubbing the sides but no matter what I do I can't get the Y belt not to do that because it slides back and forth as the Y plate moves forward and back. Slides on the drive pulley as well as the idler's bearing.

perhaps your belt is not cut straight?

Here is some theory about the self centering properties of the barreled pulley shape https://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.htmlhttps://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/c...
In my machine it self centers on the y-belt. On the x-belt I havent't installed this pulley yet and I still use a double bearing. The belt rubs against the sides but print quality doesn't suffer badly from this.
For your Y axis you could perhaps check this thing to also help align your motor... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:313172http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
(LOL!!! I now notice you actualy designed this thing! Thanks I'm also using it!)

Prusa I3 Rework Y Motor Stabalizer

Btw, the concept he is showing my vacuum cleaner uses as it is a flat belt and the brush roller is round-ish like was shown and the motor shaft is straight. The belt never slides off but finally broke so I had to replace it. Sure would be nice to use 2 dollar belts for these things and eliminate gt-2 belt and pulley systems.

LOL, hahaha. Yes, my motor (as seen in the picture) is very straight and the belt is via the Y idler. I made sure it was straight and the belt still slides on the bearing and rubs just a little on the gear. It is the best I can get it and it is maddening. I suspect some of this is coming from the Y belt holder itself and that piece needs to be redone but I can't print right now and I don't have that piece in a solid model (the rework stl models refuse to convert to solid for all but one or two of the simplest ones).

Hi DA, Remodeling the Ybelt holder from scratch can't be hard. I did the
x-idler in freecad in an hour in Freecad. Why are you maddened by this rubbing?
Does it ruin your prints? Myself I don't notice a lot of effects from this... I just did the design for fun and the to prove the principle.
But have you considered spectra fishing line before? This gives you a much lighter drive train. Maybe it also solves your issues with alignment and cost. See http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/3dr-reprap-delta-printer-part-1-release.htmlhttp://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/... for a succesfull application.

Yes, I have been thinking about converting over to spectra but spectra stretches over time and is why most do not use it. My thought has been what values for Y steps would I use in Marlin since I am not using a toothed system? I asked around and could not get an answer for that one.

When I had my first printer (Printrbot Simple) it came with spectra. For my Y steps i had to use this formula (wanted_length/measured_length)*old y steps. To use this formula you tell the printer to move the y axis some value, that value is wanted_length, after the printer moves you measure the distance it has covered, this value is measured_length. The rest should be straightforward but I dreaded the spectra on my previous printer. Hope you can get everything worked out

Looks like the adjuster screws for the idler.

Why do you need two screws with nuts near the smooth rods of x-axis?

Hi Tse,
Good question. If you leave out the screws and tighten the x-belt very thight. You will squeeze the x-axis brackets together. This will bend the z-axis smooth rods. The screws lean on the X axis smooth rods. They make sure the belt force is deflected through the smooth x rods to the left x bracket. The right bracket can "move" independently and does not bear the load in x direction. So the z axis is also not loaded from the side and doesn't bend.
Does this answer your question?
Happy printing!
Diederik

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