If you use this, enjoy it, and feel like you'd like to show your appreciation, feel free to fund my filament costs ;-)
It's come to my attention that a lot of people who want this do not have a 3D printer. Please PM me, and I can print this out for you, if you don't know someone with a printer.
This video was not made by me, but I was given permission to use it.
I would deviate from this instruction in the following ways
Pre-assemble the parts and put glue in the dovetails, and around the mount bracket wherever the mount bracket and top body come into contact.
That top screw the holds the spring in for the slider, I use an M4 screw and thread it into the plastic rather than dropping in a screw and relying on gravity.
The stabilizer is first attached slightly loose on to the pattern, once the whole assembly is attached the press, it's then slid down to contact the table. The holes are then located, pilot drilled and screwed to the bench. The screw is then tightened to the pattern.
I use a bit stiffer spring in the turntable part, and tighten it far enough that rotation is just still barely possible so it doesn't flop around.
This is a 3D printable case feeder for the Hornady Lock n load Auto-Progressive reloading press. This one does not cost $300+, and doesn't have any automatic motorized feeding that costs the big bucks. Instead it's modeled off the Lee feeder mechanism with four tubes that can be rotated into position once empty.
To assemble and attach this, you will need the following:
2x 1/4"-20 x 3/4" long bolts.
2X 1/4" washers
1X M4 x 20mm machine screw
1X M4 x 8mm machine screw
1X 23/64" x 1-3/8" (9mm x 35mm) compression spring
1X 1/4" x 4" (M6 x 100mm) full thread hex bolt, or all thread.
3X 1/4" or M6 nuts. (4 nuts are needed if using all thread for the above bolt)
1X M3 x 20mm machine screw
1X 7/32" or 1/4" x ~3/4" (6mm x 20mm) compression spring
4X + extra. 5/8" (16mm) OD tubing. Thin wall preferred to allow larger cases.
Optional: Lee case feeder tubing ~9/16" (14.5mm) OD tubing
The 5/8 tubing is used at the top of the case feeder to hold cases. It is used above the top slider to keep the cases from falling over when the slider moves back. This piece should be long enough that your tallest case can sit inside the top slider, and clear the top holder, and have this tube go from up inside the top case holder, to just a couple millimeters above the top slider. The exposed part of the tube should have the half facing the hole in the slider removed to allow to case to be moved forward out of it. This tube is also used below the top slider to allow smaller cases such as 9mm, .40, .45, etc. to fall down to the ram plate without falling over (40mm length). It's also used to line the inside of the hole of the top slider, though this is probably not requiered.
The lee tubing is a slip fit within the 5/8" thin wall tube listed above, and allows a simple sleeve to slide inside the top turret which will allow it to be set to a height that works for 7mm Rem Mag, .308, etc. and switch to a height that will work for 9mm, .40, and .45, and another that will work for in between cases like .38/.357 mag very simply
The model is assembled with dovetails, which fit together tighly. Depending on the material you use, your extrusion multiplier, or you printer, you may need to sand or file the dove tails. I reccomend a drop or two of CA glue on the part of the upper box piece that wraps around the mounting bracket. After you've put them together, as you may not have time to get the dove tails tight if you put glue in first. This probably isn't nessesary, but will add rigidity
There is some play in the mounting to allow you to get it aligned just right, but I find that holding it all the way up and to the right side of your press when tightening the bolt works well. The nose that fits into the lower slider is adjustable in and out to match your case size, and to fine tune to your press, and to if you want it to require pressing forward to seat a primer to fully push in the case. It's locked into it's position with an M4x8mm screw.
The top case holder's rotating piece should be attached to the stationary piece by putting a small compression spring inside it, and screwing an M3 or equivalent screw into the undersized hole in the stationary piece through the spring, and the hole in the rotating piece. This will allow it to rotate, and be indexed on the four bumps. So you can switch tubes when one is empty.
The top slider should be slid onto the main body from the front, and a 9mm x 35mm compression spring should be pushed into the back. A 20mm long M4 screw is then screwed into the hole on the top of the top slider while the slider is held back against it's stop, and the spring is slightly compressed. (easier than it sounds)
This should work for any case up to at least a 7mm mag. I can load 7mm mag on it, and then simply slide in an insert tube, and load 9mm (after switching over dies, shell plate, etc.) without any other adjustment to the feeder. For .458 socom I simply take a piece of the 16mm tubing, that's split down the middle and wrap around the top down tube just above the lip of the case.
The pictures should make this all clear, but feel free to ask questions.
Feel free to modify using the Fusion 360 files, though they are a mess, as I just started using this tool, and this is my first project with it, and I didn't RTFM.
Added Case Collator
Case collator insert attaches at the top of the feed tubes.
There is a version for rifle cases that I designed for .308. Will likely work for other cases.
There is also a version for pistol cases. The pistol version needs a washer that prevents them from going down the tube backwards. A model for a washer is included which works for 9mm and .40 S&W, possible others. Another version is included that SHOULD work for .45 ACP. I don't load .45 so I haven't tested it. Don't dump the cases in right over the holes. This can cause upside down cases if one happens to hit the hole just right upside down.
I've also included a file for a stabilizing part that attaches on the pattern piece and screws to your bench. I found that I needed this when the tubes were full of cases and had the collator on top, as it wobbles, and flexes the whole feeder. I've not tested this yet, so please consider it experimental. I've updated the pattern to have a screw hole in case you want to screw the stabilizer onto it, but I'll probably glue it.
Added 5mm of upward travel on mount bracket.
Decreased Lower Slider Nose height by 3mm
Increased stabilizer height by 7mm and made the screw hole a 7mm long slot.
Added parts with a 0.2mm tolerance on the dovetails. Parametric in the design file.
Added an enhanced version of the stabilizer.
Added collator, and tube holder parts for lee tubes.
Uploaded new design file.
Added chamfers, and fillets to improve fitment and function
Sliding rails, and dovetails have 0.3mm fillets to combat corner swell.
Sliding rail on upper body has looser tolerance to allow easier sliding without sanding.
Changed lower slider to lock dovetail into place with a M4x8 screw for easier adjustment.
Looser tolerances on lower slider, in both dovetail, and sliding slot.
Made holes larger in block washers so screws will slip though the holes.
Added a collator dish with a 0.2mm tolerance on the central hole for a better fit on some printers.
Added a brace that helps support the pattern when the foot can't be mounted to a bench. This was designed by another user, and sent to me. I've edited it to have some tolerance for a better fit, added chamfers, and thickened part of it slightly from his original design. It installs between the pattern, and mount bracket.
Numerous changes. Brace now attaches with screws for easier parts replacement, and assembly. Still can be glued if you like.
various chamfers and fillets to combat elephants foot, improve function, and to make assembly easier.
Pattern is wider at the bend by 1mm, and the corner has a radius for smoother operation
New fusion 360 file uploaded.
Added option for top slider with 693 bearing as a contact surface between the back of the upper slider and the ramp on the lower slider. Not at all needed, and the original still works well, especially if you sand the ramp. Just seemed like a interesting "Upgrade" as this is the only surface that has much pressure between sliding parts.