CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL

by chito, published

CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL by chito Aug 22, 2017


CR-10 Heavy Duty Modular E3D V6 Mount

This is a mount for the V6 hot-end by E3D that is stronger and more rigid than some of the mounts that are out there. This mount also comes with an array of possible options for any extra functionality as attachments on the sides.

The minimum you will need to print out is the body and one of the faceplates. There are a variety of wings for different combinations, additions and customizations.

NOTE: Only left side parts are in the library of wings. To print a wing for the right side simply mirror the part in your slicer.

Current modules

  • 5015 fan mount
  • ABL (18mm thread). Offset X:(+/-) 41.5mm / Y:0
  • 5015 fan & ABL (18mm thread). Do not use on left side. Offset X: -63mm / Y:0
  • 5015 fan & ABL alt (18mm thread). Offset X:(+/-) 63mm / Y:12mm
  • BLTouch mount. Offset X: (+/-) 33.265 mm / Y: -1.00 mm
  • BLTouch & 5015 fan mount. Offset X: (+/-) 58.565 mm / Y: -11.00 mm
  • 30mm heatsink fan mount
  • 40mm heatsink fan mount


Based on the V6 mount by graham01
and the dual 5015 fan mod by RebelRousingProps

I found some issues with the V6 mount file, also missing was support for dual 5015 fans and an ABL sensor so decided to make my own. I've also made my own library of parts.

If you would like to use a 40mm heatsink fan and don't want to use the integrated ones I've made. Then you can use this part https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:929326 which works great with this mount.

special shout out to Chris Ragucci who helped me test these parts and provide feedback.

Update 1

  • Fixed the 5015 fan wings. correct measurements, centred with hot-end
  • ABL sensor mount also centred, ie Y offset = 0
  • Minor improvements to Mount body

Update 2

  • Optimised wings to not need as many supports (needs new body)
  • Created new body with better mounting to x-carriage and updated wing rails
  • NEW PART: 30mm fan mount (40mm version to come soon)

Update 3

  • Fixed a minor issue with the face plate
  • Optimised the V6 30mm heatsink fan mount faceplate
  • NEW PART: 40mm heatsink fan mount faceplate

Update 4

  • Removed logo (wouldnt print correctly)

Update 5

  • Updated 40mm fan mount - shouldn't blow air on to heat block (needs testing)

Update 6 (major update)

  • added holes back to the rear of the body for more compatibility
  • resized holes for nuts, made them tighter as they were too loose and not being held correctly
  • fixed clearance tolerance for heat sink, it now goes in tight without having to be forced in
  • Added logo for e3D and V6 to face place to help with orientation during assembly. Fan mount version didn't require it but added for consistency
  • NEW FILE: Added new STEP file of the wing base so people can create their own wings

Update 7

  • NEW PART: new version of the 5015 fan mount with ABL. ABL mount has been moved forward 12mm. this is mainly because the origianl ver, when used on the left side, hits the gantry

Update 8

  • NEW PART: V6 Volcano mount (needs testing). fully compatible with all wing modules, covers and heatsink fan mounts

Update 9

  • NEW PART: New mount for BLTouch (might do fan combo later). Note that the BLTouch sits in the arm as per the image. This so the sensor sits at the height indicated by the spec and leaves enough room for the screw that secures the moudule to the body
  • NEW PART: V6 mount designed for aluminium casting. Such as shown in these Youtube vids

Update 10 - 4th Oct 17

  • Reworked all the parts, cleaned them up
  • Improved vertical position in rails
  • Fan duct has been updated to blow air more on that part than the nozzle

Update 10.5 - 5th Oct 17

  • Fixed some oversights and minor improvements
  • ADDED: new and improved casting versions

Update 11 - 31st Oct 17

  • NEW PART: LED bracket mount - attaches to fans
  • NEW PART: 5015 fan mount with BLTouch (3rd Nov)
  • UPDATE: 40mm Fan mount - added more material
  • REMOVED: Aluminium loss casting mounts - people incorrectly using them
  • All parts now have version numbers, As of now starting at V1

Update 12 - 3rd Nov

  • UPDATED: all 5015 fan ducts now blow air lower and away from the nozzle
  • NEW PART: 5015 fan mount with BLTouch (updated with fix 6th nov)

Known issues


Print Settings








Most parts can be printed with the above settings. For orientation please look a the screen shot in the gallery.

The only part that needs support is the main body that attaches to the x-carriage.



  1. Attach the wing of your choice to the body

    • 1x M3 Nyloc nut
    • 1x M3 12mm screw

    The wings are adjustable in height (11mm total) and should never go past the tip of the hotend. Place the nut down the holes in the body and secure the wing using a screw from the side of the wing

    1a. 5015 wing - Attach the Fan

    • 1x M3 20mm screw
    • 1x M3 Nyloc nut

    You can drop the nut through the top part of the mount and then slide into the nut shaped hole. lineup the fan and secure with the 20mm screw.

    1b. ABL wing
    Follow the instructions of your ABL. Take note of which side your sensor is, the offset settings are

    • 5015 ABL wing: X:63.00 mm Y:0
    • 5015 ABL wing alt: X:63.00 mm Y:12
    • ABL only wing: X:41.50 mm Y:0
  2. Attach the body to the x-carriage

    • 2x M3 Nyloc nuts

    These need to be put in place before you mount the body to the x-carriage. Then use the existing screws to screw the body in place. NOTE The stock screws that come with the hotend and x-carriage might not be the best quality. It's optional to replace these. To do so you'll need:

    • 2x M3 6mm screws
    • 1x M3 20mm screw
  3. Attach the front plate

    • 2x M3 30mm screws
    • Fan mount 4x M3 16mm+ screws (came with V6)

    Insert the top part of the V6 heatsink and attach the front plate to the body with the screws. these should screw into the nuts you placed in the back of the body.
    If you're attaching a fan mount, you can use the screws that came with the V6 fan, but you may need longer ones depending on how thick your fan is. Note that these screws have a drilling tread that grips the plastic

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I like the concept and installation was ok. I do however have some design tips for you.
The inductive sensor mount "wing" is a bit flimsy to my tastes and it does in no way have to be as they are just as capable of gripping a much thicker holder. I suggest doubling or tripling the thickness of the "ring" to make it more rigid.

The e3d logos did not come out well for me in CPE material, i put logos on my print regularly and it really looks best on vertical surfaces and you need no more than 0.2-0.6 mm depth for them to be clearly visible and print much better.

Would it be possible for you to remove the gap at the bottom of the 40mm fan mount on the V6? The fan blows onto my heat block, causing heating issues.

Really nice design. I have it all mounted on my CR10S5.. but now I need a firmware.. any pointers on where to find one??

hi people ,
does the fan blower 40 mm fits for e3d v6 extruder or only on the volcano? i see that the heights are differents.

best regards

Great job Chito, very impressive design and build. I'm looking at setting this up on CR-10S and would appreciate a recommendation on the fans to use, ideally giving the ability to adjust fan speed?

I have one more request. How about an addition to move the extruder over and make it a direct drive with the E3D V6?

I have just mashed one, testing it out today and will post when all issues have been ironed out.

is there any decent mod to the fan wings? its blowing straight on the nozzle for me :/

There are a lot of things I like about this design, but there is one thing I don't like. I have EZABL and this design puts the probe +63mm from the nozzle on the X, and 11.5 in front on the Y. And I thought 48mm was a long way with my old fang. :-) I don't really see a way around that though. Overall, a very good design. Thanks.

Does all this extra weight have any affect on print quality??

Gday Mr Chito,
First of all top job on the mount - its undeniable one of, if not the best mount available. I was also able to acquire a cnc aluminium heavy duty base.
my question to you is - are you able to make work a bracket for the Laser upgrade module that fits with the rest of the heavy duty empire?
see CR-10 laser upgrade below:

This would be much appreciated. Keep me posted!

I’m also interested in this and I guess many others as well!

hi guys
sorry to ask, but i have printed
this awesome mount several times
thank you chito for this great work
but when i try to install an og or a clone e3d
the nozzle is really far away from the bed compared to the stock nozzle
i had to install 2 nuts 1 under and 1 above the springs
to get it higher
am i doing something wrong?
does anyone have the same issues?
would it be possible to have the saame mount
for the stock extruder?
thank u guys :)

you need to adjust the z stop so that it doesn't 0 out so soon.

Something like this

Creality CR-10 Adjustable Z-Stop
by joey99

hi neoc2003
thank you for your reply
i installed a z endstop adjuster
but it was on its limit
the problem is the e3d seems to be quite shorter mounted
so mostly i have to install spacers to raise the bed, otherwise the nozzle
is way too far from the bed
i must do something very wrong , nobody else has complained about
to be honest i like the stock hotend, so i drilled some holes to fit the stock
to the modular, but as you know, its never precise enough

Just for reference to those who use marlin. Marlin does not do floating points for probe offsets so when setting your probe offset and if your using a mount for instance BLtouch which has depending on side of the hotend an offset of +- 33.265mm. In this case you can either enter 33 or round up to 34 otherwise your compiling will error out. This is a negligible amount so don't worry about it.

Hey, I'd love to use my E3D V6 with a direct drive set-up (was using a makeshift direct drive set-up using the stock parts on a 3D printed plate before I switched), but using the stock extruder - would you be willing to add a STEP file of the main mounting bracket to remix this new part off? I'd like to keep it compatible with all the other parts that you've already made, to give people the option for a direct drive set-up without having to buy a (let's face it, not cheap) Titan extruder or without having to sacrifice the EZABL/fan mounts/...

I've just mounted thee fang on my CR-10S and it works like a charms, but I have an issue with the fans (obviously not depending from the fang) and I'd like to see if someone could help me. The problem is that the fans works only if I choose 100% of power, if I choose a lower percentage they make a strange noise and the fans don't spin at all... I've connected them in parallel each other and connected to the two cables from the original fan... are the models of the fans I've chose wich don't support pwm or all this kind of fans don't? In case wich model should I use? 100% of power produces too much air and are too noisy... someone could help me? Thanks

Which fang did you print? I printed this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2606026 and it says in the description "Note: There is a common 'HK Fan' available everywhere that does not like anything less than 12vdc. This is not good if you plan to run your fan at speeds lower than 100% as the HK Fan will stall if you try to run it at lower speeds." This might be your issues if you're using one of these blower style fans.

CR-10 High Clearance Fang Mod for 5015 Fans

Having just had my brand new Creality CR-10S HotEnd cooling fan bearing fall apart after the second print, I just wanted to thank you for your hard work.
You allowed me to fit a spare E3D V6 and fans that I had to hand, and carry on printing.
Best Wishes,

Will this part: CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015_v1.1 fit any 5015 fan? I just can't find one layer fan that works well with my very generic printer :(

Hi Chito,

May you upgrade CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6-wing__BLTouch.stl to a more thicker support ?
At 100% infill PETG, it seems to vibrate and to bend easily.

I just posted a tutorial for installing a BLTouch or 3D-Touch with your thing

Do you have any recommendations for a decent 5015 fan that is quiet? Will be using only one fan with an ezabl sensor. So a fan that is quiet but still making enaugh cooling.

Buy a Nidec D05F-24PH 03B FH6-1488
Ultra quiet and blow enough for PETG filament

Comments deleted.

Does this design offset the nozzle from the original cr10 mount? Do i need marlin to fix?

Only slightly offsets the nozzle, tried to keep it as close to the original as possible.the issue seems to be worse for some people more than others. Usually the issue can be fixed by printing adjustable limit switch mounts. You don't need to edit the firmware for the nozzle position. You will however, have to edit the firmware for the V6 as it uses different heating setting

I've bought a laser engraving head from Creality. I'm in a struggle finding a good place (or a way) to mount it. I'm thinking of either make it a module for one of the sides, (but then loosing one fan) or some kind of fast clip system to easy switch between the hotend and the laser. A third option could be some strap on thing just for the laser engraving occasions.

I'd love such capabilities on the Heavy Duty mount. If it seems interesting, I'm willing to cooperate develop such thing. :-)

One option could be to combine your design with this:
CR10 Quick Release for Hot End and Laser Engraver found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2676882

CR10 Quick Release for Hot End and Laser Engraver

I've downloaded the latest .zip for this part, however it appears to be missing the 5010 wing for the right hand side. Otherwise this part is amazing, thanks so much for sharing!! :-)

I had the same problem, he mentions in the instructions to mirror the left hand side part in your slicer

Good morning, I like so much the design of that fan duct! I have the stock hot end with BLTouch, is this fan duct suitable for the stock hot end?
Thanks and regards


Thanks for this awesome mount!

Just wondering, what's this part for?

to mount LEDs, it attaches to the front of the heat sink fan

Hi! Do you use this personally? If so, could you please post a picture how it is attached? And what sort of LED light are used to fit this bracket? Thanks!

Thank you! Then it will be used when I upgrade my printer with a fancy LED light system

Is it possible to use 40mm fans on the wings with ABL sensor instead of the 5015s? They're really noisy fans.

I have a problem with its design, I use the original bltouch with the original v6 e3d, but the bltouch is very fair and often hits the hotend before the v6, can you solve this by lowering a few millimeters the bltouch in the design? I am using the 5015 with bltouch

use washers to adjust the height of the blTouch

Great design, just got it printed up and mounted my E3D V6 to my CR-10S. It works great however it appears that the nozzle of the hot end is now about 8mm-10mm farther towards the front of the machine. when the unit goes to home the nozzle is now just off the print bed. did I do something wrong or is this a known issue?

Its an issue for some and not an issue for others. You can solve this by adjusting the Y-limit switch or using a adjustable mount for your Y limit switch

Love this design, finally got everything printed and realized there are no file downloads for the right mount fan duct

from the description:
"NOTE: To print a wing for the other side simply mirror the part in your slicer."

LOL i read the description like 8 times and somehow glossed over that every time.


Love this modular design. Would it be possible to upload a step file of the V6 body? I would love to adapt this to my printer but the back has a hook on it that will keep me from being able to mount.

Hello, many users "including me" of the Facebook group Creality CR-10 3d Printer User Group complain about the difficulty of bringing ventilation to 100% and even less ...
The problem is due to the shape of your wings, because, throw the air on the nozzle lowered so the temperature! The wings must carry the air, only to the piece that is under the nozzle ...
You can change the inclination of the wings a little, so that they stop hitting the nozzle ..?
Thank you

As you can see from the attached image the fan doesn't blow air on the nozzle. This issue was addressed in one of the last updates. If you have an e3D heat block then use the silicone sock, that's what it's for. If you're still getting an error I suspect the error your getting is from air bouncing off the print or bed. Try turning down your fan speeds. are you using a volcano by any chance?

I have the same issue, i resorted to not use part cooling for the time being. I am using a volcano and a sock on it. I have tried the wing at multiple heights and even at 50% fan speed it still cools the nozzle and the heater cartridge cannot keep up.

Hello, thank you for reply.
Unfortunately I have to disassociate from your reply, as obviously I use the silicone protection and the problem is not a rebound of air from the bed ...
If I raise the hot end, at 30mm and I bring the fan to 100%, I feel the air hit the nozzle, in fact the temperature drops. I have the last wings you produced, the ones with the solution to the problem and the BLTOUCH, as you can see from the picture ...
I think you should lower the airflow a little more, or make a curved cut, on the part nearer to the bed, so that the excess air comes out underneath, directly on the bed and not on the nozzle ...
I have done many tests in various heights and the result are same, for me the cause are the wings...
I do not use vulcano!
Can you try what I ask you ..?

Where did you get the STL for the bar that goes between the fans?

What's the offset for the 5015 and bltouch wing?

Sorry mate, Ill add the details below on the description

blTouch only wing
X: (+/-) 33.265 mm
Y: -1.00 mm

blTouch with Fan
X: (+/-) 58.565 mm
Y: -11.00 mm

On the right side, 3D-Touch (BLTouch) with fan & E3DV6 Volcano:
X: 61 mm (right)
Y: 2 mm (front)

For those of you running a dual-fan, do you run an extra wire into the control box to power the fan, or split it off of the existing part cooling fan?

Split it off the existing one.

So the left mount EZABL only wing was actually identical, regardless of being a few mm's higher, not sure why I wasn't getting that at first, sorry lol. Again this mount is absolutely awesome. Nice job.

My questions are, and I hope someone who knows the answers see this, is there anything I need to do?

It appears as though the mount keeps the new v6 hotend in almost the exact same spot, though I don't know this for sure. Do I need to change any settings in the firmware before 3D printing something? You also said that we will need to level the bed again, how does that work with the EZABL and hard mounts, I probably don't need to then right? I went through and adjusted my EZABL to be 2mm higher than the tip of the hotend. Is the V6 in the exact same spot on the X and Y?


So to answer my own question for anyone who also might wonder the same thing, I didn’t have to do anything with firmware. I just did a test print and it printed flawlessly besides a corner lifting which wasn’t the fault of this mount or anything. Awesome mount man. Thank you

if possible share this set of SolidWorks drawing files?

I am adapting for the MGN9 linear rail

For MGN12, look at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2807712

@chito, may you design a X carriage for MGN12 (H) linear guide positionning horizontally or vertically ? So, that the existing mount CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6-body__x-carriage.stl with clamps will fit to

MGN12 CR-10 Heavy Remix for BLV MOD
Comments deleted.

The mount cover 40mm fan doesn't fit together with my e3d v6 and the mount body v1. The tops of the fan mount cover's two snap ons hit the bottom of the mount body v1. If that makes sense. I think i can just file them down a little tiny bit to get it to fit, just wanted to give a heads up.

Thanks for this though, super cool mount man.

I am having the same issue..

I took the cutting pliers and snipped off like an 1/8'' of an inch off the top of each of the parts that snap onto the E3D v6, and it went right on no problem. Hope this helps! :)

You have a bracket for a BL Touch sensor but I thought the only the way to add ABL to the Cr-10 was with the EZABL kit. Is there another way to add it that's cheaper?

Replace the crappy melzi board with a ramps board. Its cheap and gives you more options.

I literally just got this working today. working on printing a mount right now to get it finalized.

Firmware I used is here: http://jonathanlundstrom.me/download/237/
This firmware uses the display beeper/buzzer pin to control to bltouch servo. I wasn't able to compile it without disabling sdcard support because lack of memory. The beeper wire is the brown wire on the display connector, clip it off and wire an extension to the bltouch orange wire. The brown/GND and red/5V are connected to the respective pins on this picture: https://cdn.instructables.com/F06/XH0O/J0MOS2VC/F06XH0OJ0MOS2VC.MEDIUM.jpg

The remaining 2 pin connector is connected to the Z limit connector, instead of the Z switch. Use a volt meter to check polarity (not sure if it matters, but doesn't hurt to get it right)

What are the offsets for the 5015Fan+BL-Touch mount ?

It's in the description

I mounted and mesured, it's approximately 60mm to the left of the nozzle, and 9-9.5 mm in front of the nozzle.

New question :)
where is the .stl for fan on the right side?

You mirror the left side one in your slicer. :)

@chito - any way to get https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2319993 to work with this? As best I can tell, it might be a direct drop in, other than the fact that the fan ducts may need to be extended downward. Any chance of a remix that includes the precision piezo mount as an option? Also, tip heading your way as this has been a very useful mount to me so far, thank you!

Precision Piezo - Piezo20 Hotend Z Probe

No plans to do so, its hard to create something for I don't own myself. First saw this a few months back and decided not to get it since the BLTouch does the same thing and doesn't require the hotend to be floating. didnt like the idea of the mount moving around

Is it just me or is the right wing not found within these files?

You simply have to mirror the other wing in your slicer.

You flip the left one

Hi Chito, thanks for making this!! I'm having just one small problem. I printed the "Update 12" for use with VOLCANO, 5015 fan and ABL, but I noticed the fan duct blows directly at the nozzle. :( Now if I use the part cooling fan, it causes the nozzle temp to quickly drop and Marlin trips "THERMAL RUNAWAY" error because the nozzle is being cooled so quickly. Problem verified to be the fan duct positioning, as no error and temperature drop with part cooling fan off. Current design of the wing cannot be positioned any lower, so I put a small wedge between the body and wing.. Anyone else have this problem and any design fix available for the 5015 fan / ABL wing?


I see. hmm the V6 works fine, maybe the volcano mount is a bit off... hmmm... ill need to investigate this. would be cool if anyone with a volcano mount could let me know if they are having this issue.

Ps is there a silicone sleeve for the volcano?

I also have this issue. with the latest wings, radial fan on each side. No sock on the E3D Volcano (yet, here it two days)
This is what I did for a temp fix:
Turned on the part fans: M106
Ran PID Tuning 10 ttimes for 5 degrees over what the nozzle was going to run at: M303 E0 S200 C10
Took the resulting k values and saved them in the EEPROM
M301 P29.75 I2.16 D102.36 (your values may be different)
M500 (to save)

Then sliced with the part fans limited to a max of 50% (60 for bridging)

Then I ran a stringing test and if completed without a thermal runaway with only light stringing.

I will re-do this with the socks on, and setting the part fan back to normal later this week.

Larger print failed after about 3 MM of Z.

Same problem here: If i disable cooling, all is well, if i put cooling to 50%, the print fails after a while. The fillament doesnt want to go though the extruder anymore, eventough the measured temperature is still around 220.

I think the nozzle or heatblock is cooling down too much.

If i use a lower fan speed it prints correctly, but then there is not enough cooling, the print stays too flexible.

I think i need a sleeve?

Comments deleted.

E3D does make a Silicone sleeve for the Volcano, but I just don't have it. ( https://e3d-online.com/volcano-socks ) I have spare V6 block and silicone sleeve, but just no sleeve for the Volcano. A sleeve on the volcano would definitely help to insulate the block / nozzle and keep temps more stable, but I still think the fan duct nozzle is pointing too high for volcano setup. It's probably optimal for V6, but for Volcano the part cooling fan duct should angle slightly further down IMO to avoid Thermal Runaway problem..

Ultimately I'd prefer to use the Volcano over V6 for the obvious thermal performance benefits. If you need any more pics or specific measurements, please let me know. I've been using your Update 12 mount setup as pictured in my previous post for about a week now, just with no part cooling fan for now..

I'd love to hear from anyone else using this mount with a Volcano setup and if experiencing the same issue due to angle of part cooling fan...

Comments deleted.

Does anyone happen to have a picture with BLTouch?
I don't understand how it should be: (

theres a picture in the gallery

So, I did the mod, and it worked for two prints. Then on my first big print, within 45 its starts to underextrude, and then it jams. Thought I had a lemon e3d, but I tried a second one and it still happened. Help?

chances are your firmware setting are not correct. You need to update them for the V6. go on the facebook groups, someone will be able to help you debug it

I know its a big ask but do you think it would be possible to make this compatible with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2319993?

I've tried it myself but my knowledge is limited with 3d design.

It basically adds bed levelling via the nozzle, its a superb idea that im excited to try out.

Precision Piezo - Piezo20 Hotend Z Probe

Oops, I missed this post when I asked for the same thing a few moments ago.. =)

Can you please share the step files for all parts?

That would be an amazing contribution back to the community.. @chito, I assume that is way too much to ask? =)

everything is open source. But losing control of a design is not usually a good thing. people create all sorts of Frankenstein parts lol. and sure that's cool but it also makes things confusing to anyone new who is looking for something that works. there might be 50 different versions of the mount that work differently but are similar... I'd rather keep everything as part of 1 system where everything is compatible, that's why I'm reluctant to distribute the step files. The only step file available is for the wing so anyone can make their own attachment

I understand what you are saying. Just have to tell you that I really appreciate your work. Very nice design.
I was looking to model a mounting bracket that will help me attach some part I am designing to your system.
I was only looking to get the dimensions of the parts and build on top of your system.
It is something for my own use and I was not going to publish anything that will get other users confused.
If considering this, you will agree to help me by providing a format that can be used in SolidWorks, I will be forever in your debt.

Thank you.

There's a STEP file of a template part so people can create any attachment for this mount. If you want to create your own mount based on this one feel free to remix it, if you want to create something totally new there are STEP files of the x carriage in the Facebook cr-10 groups. One of which is one I created

Understood... I'm just learning the modeling aspect and so far have only really learned that "STLs are frustrating to work with in Fusion360". ... that and a cadmouse is awesome. I like your system and have 2 things currently in mind as potential modifications... piezo support in some form (although your comment about the floating head make me ponder more), and looking at airflow options that encompass the entire head.. a tubed ring w/ directional holes for the air... One of those could be done with the step file you've provided so far (Thank you). Definitely appreciate the responses and contributions (Makebot should be sending you some donation bits.. unsure how that works...).

What would I do for the twin fans in terms of wiring? Do I splice the stock wires into two separate wire sets for each fan?

Alright, just checking, thank you!

Great work!
May you can explain how to connect the LED holder?
Thanks in advance!

It attaches to the front side of the fan that is used to cool the heat sink, will work with a 40mm or 30mm fan

Thanks! I just found out when I printed it

What M3 nyloc nuts did you use? Mine are 5.5mm wide across the flats, and they don't drop into the slots on the Volcano body because the slots appear to be 5mm on mine. Are the slots supposed to be 5.5mm wide, or did you find 5mm wide nyloc nuts somewhere?

that was a fun process getting them in there!! :) I think I had to file a tad to make them work and then slowly pressed them in, so I didn't go too far. Just measured mine are also 5.5mm.. And yes it's tight... Clean it out a bit and then start pushing, but put the screw in the hole so you can't accidentally push the nut too far...

Do you have the source files for the modular mount for v6 volcano?:)

I think the cooling blowers are still not aimed ideally; attached is a graph from Repetier server where I've been printing at 245C for a few hours; I have 2 5015 blowers mounted, but only had 1 connected at the start of this print because the E3Dv6 seemed to be taking it's time getting to temperature; my fans are also configured to run at 5pct, and I have them mounted at their lowest possible position.

In the picture, starting between 2:55 and 2:56, I plugged the second fan in. The background color is effectively the duty cycle of the energy required to keep the temperature at the desired temp. There is a marked increase in the duty cycle as a result of adding the second fan, which indicates that the wing cooling is being directed towards the hot end, at least in part.

My blower "sides" were printed from a download of these STLs on 11/27, so I believe I have the latest (v1.1).

do you think this accounts for air flow that is bouncing off the print or off the bed. alot of that will hit the hotend no matter what the direction of the duct

Ok - updated picture attached.

Gantry is about 275mm up off the bed, no part is in place, warmup was done from "cold". Once the temp was stable at 245C, I turned the fans to 100%, cycled them off, then back on. This was shortly after a PID (8 cycles) to 245C to ensure the head was as happy as it could be. The system can "catch back up", at 245C at least, but the fans definitely have a reasonably large impact on the heater. I'm wondering if taking a queue from airfoils wouldn't work to basically "warp" the airflow out of the exhaust ports in a manner that would avoid the head and hit the part.. but I'm clueless in airfoil design. =)... Regardless, thank you for your work on this; it worked out very well so far. I did have an issue with the nylock bolts in the main bracket -- they didn't QUITE fit without a little filing first. I currently have mine in PLA with the intention of reprinting them in NylonX later -- going to have to work on the tolerances because NylonX will likely be much harder to open up manually.

With the silicon boot on the heater bloc, the fans at 100% did not affect the temperature at all. Your heater bloc should always be lagged no matter what part cooling system you use. Even with the fans aiming away from the heater bloc, the movement of air they generate will inevitably cause disruption to the heater bloc temperatures if you don't lag it.
I tried with and without a silicon sock, Without, the bloc lost 10C in about 5 seconds and continued to lose temperature all the way down to well below the printing temp of the filament. With, the bloc remained at the chosen temperature.

That's a good question; In this case, it isn't the bed as I'm about 300mm up in the print. The print itself is in vase mode, so it has external surface area, but the internal area is just a "Capture point" for air and not a reflection point... I tried to see if I could use "smoke" from my vape to look at the air currents to answer that question, but without a high speed camera, I don't think I can reliably answer that. When this print is finished, I need to do a couple of PID tunes on my head anyway, so I'll move the gantry to ~300mm and see what it looks like with/without the fans and update. That should eliminate bed and print bounce.

Try using a bowl of water with the unheated nozzle just above the surface, then turn on the fans slightly and see where the air hits. I think ideally the flow would hit directly under the tip with no upward reflections. Granted, air flow from two directions colliding in the middle has to go somewhere, so forward, backward, and up (toward the nozzle) would make sense. Hopefully more forward and backward given the downward angle of the source flow.

Yeah, I'm going to have to do something to adjust the airflow it seems; it's too good! :-) Marlin and E3Dv6 appear to get upset if I'm trying to get the head to temp. and the fans are running; I think the PID loop ultimately gives up and the firmware crashes/resets (not quite sure how to troubleshoot what appears to be a watchdog-type reset in this yet...). If I turn the fans off to get to temp first then spin them up, things appear to be fine.

It's been a while since I looked @ the Marlin code to try to figure out why I was getting reset/shutdowns but I'm pretty sure it was the thermal protection code that is supposed to catch either the thermistor coming loose or going bad to prevent possible fires. I think you need to increase the temp range or increase the time so it doesn't trigger.

I'm not an expert in anyway but have you done PID tuning and set the Kp, Ki and Kd values in the firmware for the E3Dv6?

Yup, PID tuned to 250C, 10 times, about half a mm off the bed to ensure I'd get reflective air, fans at 100%... no problem at all. The head is covered in silicone as someone else suggested, but I don't have any kapton tape around. For now, the fix was simply to use a heat gun to slightly change the airflow. In effect, I "squished" the airflow by taking the top of the exhaust vent and compressing it slightly while simultaneously taking the bottom of the exhaust vent and rolling it down a tad. That fixed the immediate problem I was having.

A longer term fix would be to tune the tolerance of in the firmware of the thermal protection. When the fans kick on, there is a ~7-9 degree C drop and the recovery time due to the PID loop trying to not be overly aggressive on correction is greater than the temperature variance trigger... resulting in a thermal protection shutdown. So yes, as you say, increasing the temp range or watchdog timer would likely fix it also.

For the moment, I'm running with one fan, hand adjusted on the airflow side using the heatgun and only not running two because a PETG print caused my other fan mount to warp (I'd originally printed it in PLA with the intention of reprinting later with higher temp tolerance materials). Thank you all for the help.

silicone cover for the hot end, even wrapping it in a handful of layers of kapton tape helps insulate the hotend from draft, i have mine wrapped with fiberglass mesh and kapton tape and there was an immediate change to heating time and temp fluctuation during printing.... no matter part cooling fan speed.....

I ended up resolving this by modifying Marlin to be slightly more tolerant of temperature fluctuations in my setup. Has been working great for the last few weeks now.

Do you have any plans to make modules for blowers larger than 5015?

nope, 5015 is plenty strong enough. with 2 of them, it can even be too strong and cool the hotend unintentionally

Can you provide a second V6 mount for the left side and maybe adjust the entire mount down about a millimeter? My adjustment screws are completely loose and it is not close enough for a good first layer.

I don't understand the issue you're having. but I think you may need to adjust your z-limiter

The Z is as low as it physically can go. Without notching the X-axis carriers for physical clearance, there is no further adjustment to be had. The nozzle sits too high with the bed all the way up.

You're changing the hotend, so it's not the same size as the stock one. so you'll have to adjust your machine and thats normal. Another problem is that peoples beds are levelled differently. So changing the mount might help you but they stuff up other people. the standard solution is to print an adjustable z-limit switch mount. Join any of the Cr-10 facbook groups and you can post any issues there. someone is bound to help you out

No, you're not understanding what he's saying, I'm getting the same issue. When using this mount, the nozzle tip sits higher than the original did, such that the bed has to come up higher. The bed can only come up so high though, as the springs are only so long. The only other option is to bring the z axis down, but what he's saying is that the plate assembly that holds the x axis arm onto the z axis lead screw hits the yellow stepper motor retaining part, so it can only go so low. The tolerance between the bed being able to be adjusted up and the z axis being able to be adjusted down is very small. Because there is very little tension on the springs due to the bed having to be so high, it's difficult to maintain proper level. The issue with this mount is that it clips over the x axis bracket but doesn't mount the hot end low enough.

print an adjustable z endstop mount

Has anyone made a fan duct for the other side of the extruder?

From the instructions on the details page: "NOTE: To print a wing for the other side simply mirror the part in your slicer."

Im Still new to 3D Printing thank you...

welcome. its a lot of fun :)
look up how to mirror file in your slicer of choice

Hi Chito and everyone, can i print this with pla to print pla? If not, how about the strong and flexible material from shapeways? If not, what material do you recommend from shapeways?

I printed it in PLA and used that to print one in PETG @260'C. I think it'd be fine since there is a lot of cooling between the heater block and the attachment ring.

PLA is fine unless you are going to have your cr-10 in an enclosure.

Comments deleted.

Hi all 3d printer !
Updated my CR-10S S5 to Bltouch and Keenovo Silicone Heater CR-10S S5.
Thermal camera picture over Keenovo bed in zip file.
Bltouch, Wow, 0.001 ~ 0.05mm and works well with Ac bed.
In Bltouch CR-10S S5 Wiring, firmware mm.zip are everything you need if you want to try, except one Bltouch ;-)
Works very good.

In Marlin setup for bltouch, bedsize mm,zip
If you want to try !

Here are the most important changes in Marlin firmware Configuration.h you can do, needed for bltouch as well as set the size of your bed. There is much more to focus on but a good start that works, Bjax

Has anyone made a dial indicator mount for this system yet?

Figured I'd ask before doing my own.

Hi chito,

Is it possible to use regular M3 nuts with thread lock in lieu of M3 Nyloc/Nylon ones?

sure I don't see why not, give it a try. but it might be hard to undo if you need to swap something out.

Comments deleted.

I have searched like two weeks to find out how to connect the BLTouch to the cr10s board and found out myself last night...that probably will help a lot of people. Thanks a lot! Thumbs up

Where is the file for the bltouch?

I got problem with your last upgrade: NEW PART: 5015 fan mount with BLTouch (updated with fix 6th nov)
I made Mount body, 40mm heatsink fan mount, 5015 fan mount, 5015 fan mount with BLTouch.
Know the problem is, if I install the BLTOUCH up the 5015 fan mount with BLTouch it is upper then the nozzle, if I install the BLTOUCH down the 5015 fan mount with BLTouch, it is lower then the nozzle...
I use the last BLTOUCH smart version "genuine", the pin of this sensor in longer then the old version...
Solutions for this problem???

the best solution would be to make the BLTouch part of the mount adjustable somehow. I'll try to come up with a solution soon

hi again, short question why are you saying not to use the ABL on left side....just did and trying to make the configs right now, but why not to use on the left side?

the original version hits the gantry and doesnt let the x axis limit switch make contact. theres another version that works better on the left side. both versions work fine on the righthand side

mine is hitting..witch is the one that does not hit?

same part as the other one but this alternative version fixes the issue when you want to mount the ABL on the left. Of course if mounted on right any version of the mount works. no matter which version of the mount you use, youll have to edit the firmware. Offset details are in the description. if you use Tims version of the firmware he has added support for the origianl version on the right i think

Fitting it on the left allows for more coverage of the bed surface during ABL due to the x-carriage having extra runout at the right but none on the left.

This is exactly what I was looking for! Is there anyone who has made a side out for the OEM blower fan? That is the only piece I am missing, though in order to use this setup I am looking into what it would take to get one of those big fans running. I also might as well add ABL...

Nah, I had to replace the hotted because the stock one went belly up after 3 prints, and I'm raging so hard at the stupid thing I can't see straight.

So, blower mount? I can print it on my lovely little MP Select Mini that just works like a little mule.

hi chito, how you position the new CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015__BLTouch_v1.2 for print?
Do you use support or not???

It can be printed without support but you should use a brim or the part will probably tip over since it only touches the bed at the bottom of the fan.

how you print the blue part without support???

It gets a little messy under the prongs but you can use the snips that come with the CR-10 to clean it up. It wont be perfect on the underside. Just don't over tighten the bolts/nuts that mount the probe. You want it to be perpendicular to the bed and not leaning left or right.

It will be nice to have a mount for e3d titan direct extruder.
may anyone help?
I don't have enough skill to do this))

Hi Chito,
Nice work. One question. If I mirror the ABL mount alone to use on the right side...am I correct in understanding the offsets to be:

ABL (18mm thread). Offset X:-041.5mm / Y:0

depends which one. there are 2 mounts for ABL, the origianl one and one that comes forward 12mm

is ther a way to get the hole CAD File so i can mod this mount for my corexy AND ender 2 Desktop

I love that you keep updating this thing, but MAN, this will be my 3rd time printing it, lol. Keep up the good work!

Any easy way to add dual cooling with a volcano set up? I have one set up with a left side fan only because of the cables on the right.

sure is, just print a fan mount for the right side

could you post step files for the base mounts as well? It would make it easier to make attachments to have those models along with. Thanks!

Hi, is there a fan duct with BL touch mount? (there is one with an ABL mount) As I would like to use 2 ducts with my BL Touch. Cheers

Part added. Have a play and let me know if there are issues

Chito, the combo BLTouch/5015 mount hits the gantry or whatever it's called(the thing that holds the x end stop) before the x end stop is tripped. I wonder if you can rotate it 90 degrees and have the prongs going from the front to back instead to the left. That should give you clearance of the gantry and still have a y offset of zero I think.

Part updated. Let me know how this one turns out. Ive used the same fix as another part that had the same issue

Which parts will be necessary for using E3D V6 bowden + EZABL? These ones?

  • CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount-body_v1
  • CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount-cover__40mm-fan_v1 (for stock fan)
  • CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015_v1
  • CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015__ABL_v1 (mirrored for right side + ABL)

Thanks in advance! :)

Comments deleted.

the stock V6 fan is 30mm so the above needs to use CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount-cover__30mm-fan_v1 instead of the 40mm one.
the above set up is also for dual 5015 fans

OK, thanks!
Which is the best orientation to print these parts and avoid problems with supports?

Hi chito, can you have an update on the 40mm heatsink fan mount. The fan hole are too narrow on bottom, the cooling air are not flow properly to the bottom fins of v6, and i faced clogging while printing. It is good make it more wide open for the 40mm mount hole. Thanks.

Any chance you could add a fan for the left side that has the BL touch holder on it. I'm crap at modelling and made a pigs ear of it trying to do it myself. I believe it needs to be offset so it doesnt hit the side.

Part added. Have a play and let me know if there are issues

I think by looking at it its going to need offsetting so that it doesnt smash into the gantry

Part updated. Let me know how this one turns out. Ive used the same fix as another part that had the same issue

Will print it out right now and let you know

Its on the Todo list. October has been a busy month for me. I was hoping to add this to the last update but couldnt get around to making it

Love the mount! But the fan shrouds blow on the nozzle and cause my temperature to drop off too much :(

Can you modify the BLTouch mount to add space for the wires in the back and also lower the prongs a bit? I'm a couple of mm's short of the 3mm+/- .03 distance to the bottom of the nozzle.

Your mounts have about 13/14mm of adjustment but the "right" or ideal spot seems to be as low as you can go. The only real adjustment is going up. There should be more room to adjust lower because there is always variations from machine to machine. The length from the tip of a nozzle to the start of the threads can vary from brand to brand and there are other variables that can vary from your own setup.

I've reviewed the part and realized that you don't need a new or updated part. to solve both your problems, ie lower and more room for wires.. mount it like in the attached image instead

I thought about doing that but didn't do it because the underside of the prongs didn't print smoothly for me. I'd have to file it down and try to keep the underside of the prongs level so the probe is level. I don't recall if I printed with supports so that might have been the cause of the problem. I haven't wired my BLTouch yet so I don't know if both sides light up when it does it's diagnostics or whatever it's supposed to do. I assume it should be visible on both sides but I'm not sure. The other minor thing is wire management would be a bit cleaner if the probe was mounted the other way around.

I know you're busy but I hope you'll add the original suggestions to your to do list for the future. Your fan mounts could also use a little more downward play just as a good design practice to support more situations. Like someone else posted a few days ago I would welcome you posting your step files so it would make it easier for us newbs to experiment and make mods to your mounts.

*I meant step files not stl files.

All 5015 fan ducts have been updated. should now be friendlier on the nozzle. view attached image

Thanks for the feedback. i will make these changes in the next update.

Can a suggest adding version numbers to your file names so we can see when files have changed. I think I have 3 versions of your design on my drive and don't really know when files have changed even after reading your notes.

version numbers added. BTL mount not modified yet (busy month)

i have question, about air stream from 5015 because this size outlet are wide and thick, it not will be better if the air outlet was shorter closer to nozzle? it will not perform better with faster cooling layers, and maybe longer bridges if air stream have more "power" if it output from smaller diameter exit?

the fan doesn't just blow on the where the filament leaves the hotend, it also cools the part. the 5015 fans are really strong a wide airflow works really well.

Have you tried some of the bridging tests with different duct designs? Using one fan I can get good bridges up to 40 to 60mm but anything longer is nothing but strings of loose filament running across. I guess the bridge design and possibly slicer output play a role but if the heater block wasn't in the way you might get better part bonding as the printhead is traveling left to right and moving away from the area you want to cool. Printing the other direction should be better but if you had problems going the other direction would that screw up the print going right to left? Anyway it would be interesting to compare results with a Prusa printer.

sounds like your using a single fan. try switching to dual fans. I also looking at other fan designs, inparticular single fan cooling from both sides. not sure what to go with because radial ducts dont disteibute air flow well. it will most likely be 2 fangs type duct

I just tried printing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1879027 with two fans and I'm getting a thermal protection fault w/Marlin v1.16 I think I need to adjust the fan speeds for layers near the bed because the air is bouncing off the bed up towards the heater block and making the firmware think the thermistor is loose. Failed 3 straight times about the same place. (I need to also double check the code to make sure I didn't miss any thermal protection code specific for the CR10). I just unplugged the 2nd fan(left one) and the print is running fine again.

** looks like the stock CR10 firmware doesn't have the thermal protection code. I'd have to look @ release notes to find when this safety feature was added and play with the settings in configuration_adv.h to stop error.

All 5015 fan ducts have been updated. should now be friendlier on the nozzle. view attached image

Is there a version without the logos and can you make this bit thicker it leaves a gap ?

Part has been updated

ive fixed this and the new version of the part will come out in the next update. dont know when that will be as there are a few things i want to add

Am I dumb or are the right side fan mounts not available? I dont see anything that could mount on the right.

from the details: "NOTE: To print a wing for the other side simply mirror the part in your slicer"

So it was the first one lol. Not going to lie, I didn't know that mirroring was even possible in slicer.

Anyone you could angle the 5010 fan down a little more?

im looking at making some kind of optional cover to angle the air flow lower for those who want/need it. need to plan and design it

Hi chito,

Very happy with your thing, especially with Volcano mounting. The best modular design for CR-10.

Just one request to enhance it: may you add a plate under the fan mount for hot glue a 3leds smd5050 strip (40mmx10mm) with groove cable ? Enough remaining space for that.

Thank you in advance.

LED mount added

great idea, I actually bought gopro usb flash ring for the same reason. ill make a mount soon

Comments deleted.

Gopro usb flash ring is also a good idea but you need 5V usb. A SMD strip requires 12V which would be wired from the permanent fan 40mm ou 30mm wiring cable of CR-10.

My idea is: from the vertical side of fan mount, there is a plate with groove for positive and negative cables; then, under the fan mount, there is a groove/flanged (borders) plate where i may slide an adhesive smd strip (2 leds for 30mm; 3 leds for 40mm .fan mount). Nice to direct lighting the printed zone (nozzle).
Sorry for my poor/bad english

hi, super design, but hard to understand witch are for Volcano only, also what means the AL in the end of the name...a little confused on what i need to print in order to achieve an e3d with abl setup for example, or an e3d volcano with abl..as i saw one part also has some issue...a little name change will be just great so for example if a part is for e3d and volcano, put both in the name...will help a lot the "first timers"

all side wings/modules work for all mounts. the mount parts with AL are for aluminium casting, as shown in the gallery. The gallery also shows which mount to print if you have a volcano, it also has a big volcano logo.

ok...the all was a little confusing and i saw some of them had like a little ridge in the right side and some none..still thanks for the confirmation amazing design...just cant wait to get my new all metal extruder to print them as the original one just made a huge crack. One more question do you think PLA will work? i never had a e3d or a volcano, and just ordered both...i i just love how the pla prints over all other materials..but i do not know how big is the temperature that is making direct contact with the metal parts of volano/e3d.. can you tell me if it is ok in PLA?

Pla should be okay. The heatsink doesnt really get hot. not enough to melt the pla. but if you dont want to take the risk print it in petg or abs or some of the other filamemts that are heat resistant

Any advice on printing the 40mm fan mount. I’m finding it’s quite fragile once completed.

make sure you print at the recommended infill, make sure there are no issues with layer adhesion and perhaps increase the shell count so you get stronger walls

Thanks Chito, infill and layer adhesion seemed ok but I upped the shell count and adjusted the orientation and it now perfect.

Waiting on my 1st CR10D to land for almost a month but I will be printing this up when I get it . Thank you for all your hard work.

Argghh just printed out update 10. Oh well time to print update 10.5. ;)

sorry. not all the part were affected. you can see which ones by the date it was uploaded

Don't apologise for improving such a great upgrade. I'm just a tad OCD and have to have the latest.Once I've rebuilt my CR-10 I'll be fine. Thanks again for all your hard work on this.

Really love this mount btw, very polished. I am having a bunch of Fan trouble (not related) and can only run a single fan right now, any chance of a Radial fan attachment for the 5015? Would still give me the cooling I need atm, at least until I start to tackle the serious filaments.


its on the todo list but its way down the list.

What adjustments do I need. Setup is just the Modular Mount Body, Cover for 40mm fan, and right sided 5015 Radial Fan Duct.Extruder Nozzle is sitting pretty much in same position on X but Y is at edge of glass

Personally, I don't see that as much of an issue. you could play around with your limit switches and get the bed to home where you want. but most people leave it.

Hi Chito,

May i bother you with another question :)
I'm changing the endstops of my cr-10 butt is not a good fit with the new one.
I have to drill and sand the black plastic parts what i really don't want to do
so is it possible that you can make a stl file of the 3 parts so i can print them ?
It would be great.
I tried to create them with a 3d program but its not my thing i don't understand the program yet.
The bl-touch mount is a perfect fit work great to so thank you for that.

I freaking love this mount! But I have an issue. Part cooling duct seems to blow too much on the nozzle :( It's temperature drops drastically and causes my CR-10 to halt... Has anyone else experience this? Am I doing something wrong? I put it on left side and using 5015 fan...

Yes, have same issue, cooled the hot end down so fast couldn't keep up

parts have been updated recently. did you try the new version of the parts?

Printing them as we speak, you the man!

fan ducts just got updated again. not sure if this is an issue for you still

parts updated

Awesome thanks a lot! I will try it out right away!

ive redesigned the fan ducts as part of the next update. it should work better. ive yet to upload them as im still testing the parts

Sorry for question but a bit new to this. For a E3D V6 (https://macewen3d.com/collections/upgrades-for-cr-10/products/e3d-v6-clone-hotend-ptfe-with-volcano-heater-block-and-volcano-brass-nozzle-pack) and an EZABL what should I print? I have one 5015 radial fan. Do I need to get another? And a 40mm regular?


you dont have to get anything. really is up to you how u want your setup to be. If youre going to need to print high temp filament then a stronger fan setup will help u more. maybe you print pla most of the time and one fan for the print, one fan on the heataink is enough. up to you where you want your EZABL either way u will need to edit your firmware to tell it where it is. this mount can be whatever you want it to be, have a look in the make section to see how other people have set up theirs

Thanks for response! I am currently using the EZABL on stock. I would say 99% of the time is PLA. I ordered another radial fan today though so is there a disadvantage with 2x Radials and a 30/40 mm fan? If there is none then I might as well go best I can so what parts would than mean need printing?
I can't thank you enough for a) designing this and b) answering! I'm new to this so how do we show appreciation/donation?

my set up is dual 5015 with a 40mm fan on the heatsink. i have my ABL on the righthand side. beaware wthat with some filaments cooling to rapidly can cause warping so if u have issues adjust ur settings. no need for donations. just share how much you like it and maybe add your "make" once yoube got it set up :)

Love this mount, super solid, supports 40mm fan and ezabl.

Is there any way to make this mount work with a direct mounted titan extruder on top?

I appreciate all your hard work! I really love this solution.

Could I make 1 small request? Is it possible that you put dates next to each update, so we know if we have the latest? Like:

UPDATE 9 (10/1/2017).

Thanks again, I love this thing!

yeah this even bugs me lol. wheb I started I forgot to add them. ill have a new update soon, im going over all my designs are fixing or improving minor things ive found. ill definitely added a date for that

That would be great! Wish thingiverse would let you do a change log and historical tracking of it. Then you wouldn't need the dates :P.

Are you redoing the entire thing? Or only the wings? I just set mine up last night. About to post the picture in the makes :). I love this thing!

Now to figure out how I can add LED's near the nozzle so It's lit up...The dual nozzles covers the screw holes for the one I wanted to use. But I would rather have the nozzles than the LED's :).

Wondering if I can use an LED near the top of the nozzle and somehow get it to reflect down a PTFE tube....excuse my rambling. I'm bored at work, haha

A new LED mount has been added. mounts to the fans

First I want to say great job on the V6 mount. I've tried 2 or 3 different ones and yours is by far the best. However I'm having problems with the 5015 fan mounts with a sensitive PLA filament that has poor layer bonding at lower temps. I've got the fan mounts set as low as they can go and they are at the perfect height so the nozzle is lower than the fan ducts. It appears that the ducts are blowing air on the nozzle/heater block. With dual fans @ 100% my nozzle temp drops from 220 to 205 when the fans turn on even with a heater block sock on. If I drop the fan speed down to 40% then the nozzle is able to maintain close to 220 and have a decent print. The problem is the fans start to whine at lower speeds. I've verified it's the fans by turning the fans off in the slicer and monitoring the nozzle temps.

Any idea if the duct can be redesigned to aim lower but still allow enough clearance? I'm using the SoundOriginal fans from Amazon.


The V6 comes with silicone socks for this exact reason, also I'm reviewing parts of my designs and I've noticed that the fans could benefit from being a little bit lower. You will always get some air on the heatblock. Your printer should detect the temp drop and heat up the block and compensate. I'm also looking at other fan duct designs like a radial (Prusa i3 mk3)

I think two 5015 @ 100% causes too much heat loss for the CR10 to keep up. I had to cut both fans by 60% to maintain proper temp but that causes problems printing Benchy. I've only had the V6 for a few days but I've been scratching my head trying figure out what was going on. Only today did I notice the temperature drop.

A couple of things I noticed comparing the dual fang for CR10 and Prusa designs(BTW you can get stl file on Prusa site) is that they are about 15mm away from the tip of nozzle to the lower edge of the duct. You are about 22mm away. I believe the further away you are the more the air stream expands or loses focus.

I don't know if you want to lower the duct as the bottom edge is close to as low as you can go without running into printed parts. I think you need the top edge of the duct to go out further to act has a downward deflector. The Prusa design is interesting as they only use one fan. The duct is pretty much straight except deflectors in the back bottom and front top edge.

parts updated

Comments deleted.

thanks mate, u save my day

hi , can you sir make a support fan in the right side? i only see on left. Thanks for sharing :)

in your slicer just mirror the part you want for the other side. thats why there are no parts for the right side

FYI I made a remix of the body mount to work with the cable chain mod by junaling.

you said earlier the files (are they current up to date also?) Fusion 360 were available on the FB group. could you be more specific? as their are several groups. thanks! -S

as of today there are only 3 groups

Creality CR-10 3d Printer
Creality CR-10 3d Printer User Group
and the brand new Creality CR-10-S4/S5

my file is in the 2nd one, here is the link https://www.facebook.com/groups/CrealityCR10/1725042437798817/
if you're not a member you will have to join. there are at least 3 or more other versions of it in that group's file section

Looks great! would it be possible to get the Fusion 360 file or .stl file for the original X-carriage (black piece in first image)

if youre on the facebook group for the cr-10 its already in the files section. in fact theres 2 in there (wish i had known that before i created mine lol)

What material should this be printed in?

depends really. for everyday stuff like pla, abs, petg then a pla mount should be fine. The Heatsink shouldn't get too hot if everything is working correctly. If you plan on having an enclosure and will print high temp filaments then a pla, abs or petg mount might not cut it. the best filament for heat based stuff seems to be nylon which falls apart at around 245C. If you're in the Facebook user groups for the CR-10 there is run being organised for just the mount to be machined from Aluminium which melts at 660C and is stronger, really light and shiny lol

Have messaged you on face book as cannot see it on the pages.

Hi Chito,

Based on the details, it looked like missing the info of screw size for 40mm fan to attach on the front plate.

Thank you.

same as the ones that came with your v6 but longer. depending on how thick your fan is

For the left side 5015 probe mount shouldn't it be Offset X: -63mm (not +63 since that is right not left for neg) / Y: 12mm, also why is Y 12 not zero like if was right side mount since it's just a mirror object. Also get a compile error of "exit status 1
static assertion failed: RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION can't be reached by the Z probe." when compiling it as:
define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -63 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 12 (or zero) // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]

the offset in this case is 63mm along the x axis. so if you have printed it for left side it would be -63 if you have printed it for the right its +63

there are 2 versions of the fan + ABL module. one has y of 0. an alternative version has the mount moved forward 12mm. so use the value that is for the one you're using

It should be -12, I believe as marlin seems to define "negative for Y as closer to the front of the machine.. I'm using -63 and -12 and it seems to be working as I'd expect.

Will this work with stock hot end on CR10,I have only been printng in PLA and ABS.Not sure what the future holds.This design is Nice,I have an EZABL,new firmware now supports this,as of today.I have a new 5015 fan that i bought for a fang,that I could use.Do you think 2 fans would cool print to much or just use 1 and does this support stock hotend?

No this mount is for the e3D V6 and V6 with Volcano hotend. It won't work with the stock hotend, but I might see if I can make one that does. maybe. this would be very far down on the list of things I need to do

Thats o.k,At some point I will upgrade hotend.You done a great job here thanks.

Comments deleted.

I would love to print in Blue ABS,but I have an EZ ABL and didn't I read on Facebook group for CR10 last week or so from Timothy that theres a problem with this working with his EZ ABL?

you sure it this mount? I'm in that group also and there hasn't been any feedback anywhere on anything not working as it should.

There was a post about firmware offsets. Note that to get any mount working you will need to update the firmware. I believe Tim has a mount that comes with the kit or he has an STL. its offsets are already pre-configured in the firmware he releases for the EZABL. To use these mounts you would change the offsets to the ones mentioned in the details for this Thingiverse. There are 2 mounting options for the left and 3 mount options for the right. so make sure to use the correct offsets

Thanks for getting back to me,it was about offsets and he said hes working on this.Thanks

Great just what im looking for solid work !!!!
Will there be a bltouch mount ???

I dont have one, but i can look into making one. i wont be able to test it however

hi, what the progress on the bltouch mount

BLTouch mount is ready. Let me know if it works well

thanks man !!!!!

haven't started it yet but did look into the dimensions of the BLTouch. I'm not clear how much of the prob is meant to be out.
some diagrams say the prob is 8mm +/- 5mm, another says 11mm - 6.7mm. dont know if its meant to have a clearance from the bed.

that would be great!!!! thanks man

Hi Chito.... Really nice work man. I've printed these parts (main body and both wings) but with the sensor on the right wing (mirror image of your file to have it mounted on the right side when facing the printer) until I realized that you've written not to use the 5015 fan & ABL (18mm thread) on the right side. Why is this?
Anyway I really appreciate your work.

sorry typo, it's meant to say on left side. its correct in the images. thanks for pointing it out, I'll coreect it. i have mine on the right as well.
fyi the reason why you cant have it on the left is because it hits the frame of the machine and prevents the x-carriage from hitting the limit switch

What material you were using? Is PLA enough for handling it?

I've printed it in pla. the side wing modules should be fine in pla. not sure about the main body. the mount is also designed to allow airflow behind the heatsink so hot air can get out easier. I bought the v6 so I could use a wider range of enginnering filaments, which means higher temps. I really wonder if it will warp if you print the mount in pla. if the heatsink and fan are doing their job it shouldn't get hot enough for that to happen. maybe print using a filament with better thermal properties. you could always anneal your pla and that will make it way tougher upto 160C i think, top of the line is nylon which wont budge till around 230C but is super hard to print with (needs hight temps and warps)
i would love to know if anyone has had any warping issues with pla

I've used the previous version in PLA up to 250c and no problems at all

thats great news. was it a long print and/or did you use an enclosure? what infill percentage did you print it at?

PLA would soften a bit if you have your printer in an enclosure when printing ABS with bed temperature of 90 degrees plus. It happened to my PLA printed parts cooling fan duct while printing ABS but fortunately I could just pause the print take off the fan duct and resume printing.

this would mean the body and wings would be affected. im actaully in talks with someone to get a version of the body made from aluminum to experiment with. if it works out he will sell them from his shop. might need to do the wings to maybe. of course if you use a filament that is temp resistant youll have no issues

Could You number the parts against the build files? Spend more time matching the File to the Picture. I love looking at the pictures. Great imagination on these. Thanks.

the parts have very descriptive names.
the main body and cover are easy enough to identify. you habe version of the cover that can mount fans, 30mm and 40mm.
the wings or side modules can have a combination of
ABL (auto bed leveling)
5015 fan and an
alternative verion with ABL more forward to allow access to the x limit switch

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Any support for volcano blocks and nozzles? These are taller and would require modified fan ducts. Thanks! :)

Volcano mount added

this has been requested already and are on the todo list. ill make them soon. hopefully next 2 days

Looks great! No way to fit the stock hot end?

alot of these mods are already available for the stock hotend. not as a single solution though. hmmm if demand is enough i might make a modular system for it or if i get in to a creating mood, which haopens often lol

Would love that. I can't seem to find a dual blower setup for the stock hot end anywhere

its one of the items I remixed this off. here is the original dual 5015 blower for the stock hotend

Imagine That Titian/Atlas, Creality CR-10, Afinibot A31 Print Cooling

Really nice job, looks like the most solid e3d mount for the CR-10. All the others use some sort of grip around the heatsink (which doesn't work very well). Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Glad you like it :) cant take all the credit but. i just put my spin, fixes, updates and ideas on existing ideas

Can i ask you for a favor? Could you upload an editable file (iges or fusion 360) just with the mount part of the fan-holder? I don't want the whole fan holder, just the upper part, for making some remixes? Maybe someone has an different ABL sensor (8mm, 12mm or 18mm) or even a bl-touch or needs something completely different, who knows.

STEP file added

Awesome, thx!

Yep sure no probs. I'm still making changes to these parts, I'm about to upload some improvements. I'll include a step file of a wing. Give me a few mins

Hi can please upload the wings for the right.. All the left sides are here but not the right side thanks

In your slicer just mirror any of the wings and you'll have the right side ones

Comments deleted.

Nice job man, this is EXACTLY what I was looking for.

Just installed the 40mm fan mount, it needs to be adjusted to not cool the heating block or it won't work.

thanks slimshizn
ill fix that as soon as i can. I haven't been able to try the 40mm configuration yet. its the last piece that needs testing. if you really need to use a 40mm fan right now, this part works well with the regular face plate

E3Dv6 40 mm Fan Duct

Thank you for supplying that fan mount, I've started printing it and will let you know if it works.

it should work. it was tested and supplied by another user. its the one that is in the photos in the gallery

You just use the original mount then and mount this fan duct on top of it?

print the face plate that has no fan mount. then print the part I linked above, it attaches directly to the V6 heatsink like the original 30mm fan did

Okay nice, Thank you.

Yes can confirm that it works perfectly. The bottom of the fan duct is flush with the e3d heatsink top and bottom.

I've updated the 40mm fan mount based on your feedback. You dont have to try it out but if you do let me know if it works

Well done, new mount I uploaded today and printed with some spare filament. Works good.

Flat new version of wings are very good to print, no need support like original ! thx !

No probs, had to make a few changes to make that happen, but moving forward the whole system will work better now. Just need to optimise the new 30mm fan and make the 40mm fan mount and this thingy will be done.

Infill, resolution, supports, tips on print layout orientation? Also maybe one without the text on it for easier printed stronger part? Also seems to be missing the GW signature as well.

from the description "This is still work in progress and I'm testing parts. For printer setting and orientation please refer to the links". While I've been using CAD for a few years in relatively new to 3d. So I havent worked out those details yet. If anyone is willing to share any advice it would be welcomed. also different parts would need different settings. I still need to fix and make optimizations so tjat might change things as well.

so far I would try upright with at least 20% infill. one of the links says 70% but that seems really high. the only piece that has nice details is the faceplate so maybe a nicer resolution for that one

I just printed them all at 100% in PETG at 0.24 layer height. Took 4h:58m:29s to complete in one go. So with the ABL on the left side like I printed I shouldn't need to adjust the marlin firmware from how I have it using the EZABL kits carriage mount? I know I'm going to at least have to redo my calibration offset for the probe.

I don't have the EZABL kit so I can't tell you. but the part it's for is at least centred so there should be 0 y offset. I would treat any new mount as something that would need to be set up from scratch which should be just setting your offset values and installing it at the height in the instructions which for the EZABL I think is z-axis 2mm from the hotend tip