This is an enclosure for mounting a Duet WiFi controller to a D-Bot or other printer that uses V-channel extrusions as the frame. Its designed to be mounted vertically, maintaining passive airflow over the rear of the board per Duet instructions for cooling. Additionally, a fan can be mounted to drive additional airflow over the board. The enclosure has a hinged lid designed to be able to be opened while the enclosure is up against the extrusions, and a great number of 17mm openings suitable for half inch split loom to protect wire bundles. The enclosure is designed to mount with the USB port and SD card, and other buttons, on the inside of the front rail on the D-Bot, to minimize things sticking outside the frame.
I spent a good bit of time trying to figure out the best arrangement of openings for wiring, and settled on "can't have too many", so there's a lot. I'm working on a plug design to close ones that aren't being used, but so far they've not been reliable when printed with PLA, which I'm trying to resolve before I upload. There's also a 10mm hole on the top edge which I'm using for the wiring to my PanelDue controller, using my PanelDue enclosure here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2486323
The board mounts with short M4 screws to the enclosure. The lid uses 5mm shelf pins like these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-8-Pack-5mm-Nickel-Plated-Peg-Shelving-Hardware/999995496
The enclosure can be mounted with two or four bolts to the V-channel. If you use four, you're going to need rounded topped 8mm M5 bolts to fit under it -- cap head, like the D-bot specifies for its other bolts, won't clear the hinge.
The hinge screws shut using a flat-top M4 screw, and a captive nut so it can be opened and closed without wear over time.
If there's demand for it, I can probably modify the end cuts for a Duet Ethernet, but I couldn't test it because I don't have one. I think the rest of the board spacings are identical, though.
I've uploaded a second version (v56) of the Body of the enclosure. The more work I'd done with my D-Bot, the less I liked the sharp angle the extruder heater wiring had to take to reach the connectors. (Its annoying that they come off a different side than the power in and bed heater connections, where you're already going to need clearance in the enclosure. The updated one has a small rectangular opening on the bottom where the connections are, so if you prefer to run pin connectors out rather than having tinned-tip wires doing a sharp L to reach them, you can run the extruder heaters out the bottom of the enclosure.
I'm leaving the original (v55) for anyone who wants to keep the bottom "clean" and just squeeze the connections in.
I'd probably recommend v56 though, if you're printing it. Better to have the hole (which you can't see with it mounted) and not use it than decide you need it and not have it.
I've uploaded a fan grille/cover that matches this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2834376
.15mm recommended, .2 is fine
This is, unfortunately, kind of crappy to print because of the openings for the USB port on the board. There isn't clearance around it to have supports there, so the opening is such that it really can't be bridged, so this has to be printed with supports. On most printers the rest of it can be printed without, which will leave a cleaner looking print with less crap to clean up.
If you have a slicer with manual supports, one on either side of the USB opening would probably suffice for the entire print. The other overhangs are either bridges, or kept to 45 degrees.
You'll want to flip the lid upside down. If you wanted to mount this on the right of the printer, mirroring the base along the Z axis will let you do that.